My name is Khan-e-Khalili

Bursting to its seams with all things exotic, Cairo’s gargantuan Khan-e-Khalili market showed Raul Dias a side of Egypt that isn’t all about mummies and pharaohs… well almost!

I simply couldn’t believe it! For the first time in all my ‘great-sense-of-direction-enhanced’ life did my internal GPS let me down. I had been trying to locate Cairo’s famed Khan-e-Khalili souk (market) rather unsuccessfully for the last four days and was almost ready to give up after umpteen number of wrong directions by helpful, yet linguistically challenged Cairenes. As much as the denizens of this amazing city by the Nile are proud of their great market it is quite an effort to get there especially if like me you attempt to get there on foot from downtown Cairo constantly being told “next left, meester!” 
So this time, firmly ensconced in the cool confines of a taxi I made my way towards the Mecca of all things exotic with the ferocity of a man on a mission. And finally there it was, emerging from the miasma of dust like a mirage for the unabashed shopaholic.
No visit to Cairo is complete without a ramble down to the legendary Khan-e-Khalili souk which is overflowing with some priceless bargains and yes, some touristy tat as well! Here you can stock up on some nose-tingling Arabian spices and fragrant oils while your eyes feast on the riot of colours that erupt in the shops selling traditional Egyptian outfits and top hats called tarboushes. 
Feeling a tad lost without my trusted shopping list, I let serendipity take me for a ride down the alleys of this market that assaults your every sense. My debut purchase du jour literally called out to me from its dusty home, lying below a pile of wooden bits and bobs in a rundown little kiosk in the corner of a lane. It was a simple replica of a pharaonic death mask painted in the most vivid shades of blue, silver and black. Although nowhere close to ancient, the mask had a character to it that appealed to me. After the customary (and expected!) bargaining ritual, I handed over a soiled 100 Egyptian Pound (Rs 800 approx.) note to the stall owner and headed towards the papyrus painting shop that came thoroughly recommended by my hotel manager. After a good 15 minute ramble, stopping en route to pick up a dozen mummy shaped fridge magnate for 30 EGP (Rs 240 approx.), I located the said shop and was immediately bowled over by the wonders of papyrus painting. Right from pastoral prints depicting ancient agrarian Egyptian life along the fertile banks of the Nile to scenes of mummification and funerary grandeur, there were a plethora of originals paintings to choose from and at a great price (after 10  minutes haggling) of 70 EGP (Rs 560 approx.) each. Snapping up a series of five for my sister’s new living room and another three for my bedroom, I made my way towards the fulfillment of a promise.
Being an avid Egyptophile, nothing makes my friend (let’s call her GS) happier than kitting herself out in all things Egyptian. Right from the flowing kaftans to even a mannish tarboushe, she wears them all with élan. The only thing missing according to her were a “nice expensive pair of scarab beetle-shaped silver earrings”. So off I was towards the jewellery section of the souk in the eastern section, eyes trained to scope out anything remotely scarabish. It’s not like there weren’t close contenders, but I just couldn’t find that extra special pair that had GS’ quirky personality stamped all over it. Almost ready to give up, I sauntered into a shop that looked as though it was patronized by fashionable Cleopatra herself. Old, dusty and musty are three words that best sum up the shop that was helmed by an equally ancient looking man. And yes, he had just what I was looking for. For a round figure of 300 EGP (Rs 2,400 approx.) not only did I snap up the silver earrings, but also a matching bracelet with scarabs positioned back to back.
A green hand-blown glass lamp with a matching pair of glass candlesticks for my study was my last purchases for 150 EGP (Rs 1,200 approx.). And I say last purchase not because I had had enough of this charming market, factors like depleting financial resources and excess baggage had begun to swim in my mind like annoying piranhas in the placid Nile.
A visit to the Khan-e-Khalili market comes with a warning. Be prepared for all your senses to be taken on a shopping sojourn of a lifetime, where the exotic intermingles with the ancient in a dazzling dance… but please don’t forget to take proper directions to the place!

Lamps aplenty: Light up your life!

(First published in the May issue of The Address-The Times Of India)

The mother of all markets!

With an interesting mélange of gorgeous antiques and home accessories, the Marche d’Antibes in Antibes, France is truly the place to shop like there’s no tomorrow, finds Raul Dias

Think springtime in the French Riviera and potent visions of scores of sun worshipers flocking to its pristine pink-sanded beaches swim into your mind. But there’s more than just the sun-n-sand that this decadent crescent of the South of France has on tap for the hedonist in us all. With café au lait and croissant mornings melding into evenings spent drinking chablis and gourmandizing plates of coq au vin, it is those torrid afternoons in between that need taking care of. And the centuries old weekend Marche d’Antibes in Antibes is just the place to shop away those hours as I discovered one fine May afternoon.

So as I let serendipity take me wherever it wanted to, I ambled along the narrow alleys of the market with no particular plan of action or agenda in mind. “Go with the flow” was to be my mantra du jour. As a budding patron of the arts, a gallery is one of the first places in a market that invariably lures me in. And the Gallerie St Michel was no exception. ‘Infested’ with all kind of paintings from pastorals to modern abstracts, the art gallery had an inexplicably eclectic air about it. A charcoal drawing by the owner of the gallery, Mssr Zerbib himself, depicting the Antibes Marina a few yards from the market caught my attention. Not only because I was actually talking to its creator, but more so because I had just a few hours ago sailed out of that very same marina aboard a 70 year old wooden ketch. A good humoured minute or so of bargaining later, the 12” X 8” framed drawing was mine for a decent 75 Euros (approx. Rs. 4,500)

If there was one thing the local Antibeans, like my hotel’s genial concierge, told me to look out for in the market, it would have to be the basket shop that is neatly tucked away in a discreet corner of the large market. Besides selling a plethora of weed, straw and raffia baskets, the USP of this shop is their extensive range of picnic baskets in all shapes and sizes. As a hard-core picnicker, not owning a decent picnic basket was always something I had regretted. But no more. A medium sized wicker beauty with dual flap lids and trimmed with typically French red checked cloth and a sturdy handle was what my eyes scoped out. Seeing my crest fallen face at the mention of its price of 35 Euros (approx. Rs. 2,100), the portly owner of the store decided to throw in a pair of ivory-coloured lace doilies as what he called a cadeau (gift)!

My next stop was the decidedly quirky and rather whimsical ‘olive’ themed kitchen wear store that sold almost every conceivable kitchen implement, be it saucepans, ladles, bowls, serving dishes and the like, all emblazoned with the two olives and leaves motif. With a friend back home about to start her own little patisserie, I thought a set of egg yolk yellow ceramic cake stands (with the olive motif but of course) would be a perfect house… err, I mean patisserie-warming gift. In exchange for a reasonable 15 Euros (approx. Rs. 900) I had the set neatly wrapped up in the previous days newspaper and stowed gently in my roomy new picnic basket.

No sojourn to the market would be complete without a visit to the antiques section that is housed in its north end. Here you will find everything from silver tea sets to mother of pearl mirror and matching brush sets that look like something fairytale characters like Rapunzel would have probably used to coiffeur her never ending tresses! A pair of brass candle sticks decorated with winged cherubs in mint condition for 10 Euros (approx. Rs. 600) each dawned on me as the perfect wedding gift for my friend who has a yen for both angels and antiques alike. So cracking a deal with the stall owner, I walked out happy and content with the pair along with a delicate brass dining table bell that she threw in for an extra 3 Euros (approx Rs 180).

With the big buys over and done with, the usual bric-a-brac beckoned and I made my final purchases of a dozen bunches of lavender potpourri for gifts at 1.50 Euros (approx. Rs. 90) each and two pepper mills for 2 Euros (approx. Rs. 120) each for my dining table back home in Mumbai.

Arms laden with parcels, a robust shot of the forbidden Absinthe beckoned from the nearby Absinthe-only bar. As I sat down and leisurely downed the emerald-green, aniseed-meets-licorice flavoured drink, a calming, super-satisfying sensation took over my being. And to this day I am still trying to decipher if it was the effect of Absinthe doing its little number on me or the highly intoxicating shopping at the true mother of all markets!

(First published in the 10th July issue of The Address-The Times of India)

‘Ketch’ Me!

After sailing along the French Riviera aboard a restored 1930s wooded ketch, Raul
Dias comes back with tales of battling sea sickness and pesky gulls

“Always train your eyes on a fixed object on land and suck on this!” were Captain
Andrew Cully’s first words to me, never mind the expected “hello” or even a “wassup?” I
was reluctantly boarding the magnificent 22-metre Bermudian wooden ketch Eilean with
bouts of dormant sea-sickness already welling up somewhere within me. Handing me a
packet of candied ginger to quell my queasiness, the British skipper instructed his seven
person crew to gently easy the ketch out of the rather tight spot she was berthed in at the
crowded Antibes marina. We were to sail around the French Riviera from Antibes in the
west to Nice in the east, constantly hugging the glamourous Côte d’Azur in order to take
in the best sights this hedonistic paradise had to offer us as well as ogle at other sailboats
from around the world that were in Antibes to participate in the Les Voiles d’Antibes, the
first European event of the Panerai Classic Yachts Challenge 2010.
As Captain Cully killed the engine a few metres out of the marina, his hard-working
crew quickly scurried along the gleaming polished Burmese teak deck of the boat in
preparation for what he called “tacking” which I soon figured out meant that the four
sails straddling Eilean’s two masts were to be unfurled in all their bellowing glory.
With the engine shut and the soft whooping sound of the wind in her sails, the ketch
leapt forward with a renewed vigor and vim ready to take on the placid waters of the
Mediterranean sea.
Built in 1936 by the legendary Scottish boatyard Fife of Fairlie, Eilean, I was soon to
find out is quite a celebrity in her own right. Completely restored last year in 2009, she
is owned today by Italian business magnate Angelo Bonati. But it was in 1982 that she
truly achieved stardom as she made an appearance in Duran Duran’s ‘Rio’ video with the
band’s lead singer Simon Le Bon sitting on her bowsprit singing his heart out as she cut
though the cerulean waters of the Caribbean. Also to her credit are 36 Atlantic crossings
in her 70 years. Not bad for an old girl!
With the simmering summer sun well above us, the cool blue waters of the Med below,
and somewhere in between Eilean’s soft purr lulling us into a serene submission, the
crew informed us that lunch was to be served al fresco on a table just next to captain
Cully very imposingly manning the steering wheel. So out came a bowl of garden salad
with the trés French anchovies dressing, ham and cheese sandwiches, bottles of the
bubbly prosecco and fresh fruits likes cherries, strawberries and the luscious gooseberries
to round off the picnic lunch. With all thoughts of sea sickness left behind, thanks to the
candied ginger and the constant, omnipresent sight of Nice’s landmark The Negresco
Hotel, I gave in to the lure of food and wine with the hunger of a shipwrecked modern
day Robinson Crusoe.
Now, on the seas when there is ample food, what follows next is kind of obvious--
seagulls! The nimble footed marauders quickly rediscovered their propensity for stealing
and would every now and then swoop down to pick up scraps of ham and even bits
of crumbly Roquefort blue cheese right off the table. Talk about having the audacity,
especially after facing Captain Cully’s booming yells shooing them off.
Letting the skipper get himself a spot of lunch, I willingly took over Eilean’s wheel
under the constant supervision of Marco, the dreadlocked second officer. The feeling of
commandeering a vessel such as this beauty was not only overwhelming, but intimidating

in a good way, though I didn’t really have to do much more than keep the wheel ramrod
straight and not move a millimeter until told to do so by the hawk-eyed Marco.
A little after 6pm, as the sun started to dip in the twinkling water that had begun to
resemble an endless deep blue silk carpet, my magical ride aboard a piece of living
history was soon to end as I handed control back to the captain who steered her towards
shore.
Recreating my own Simon Le Bon meets Leonardo Di Caprio moment standing at the
bowsprit, I could see the fairy lights shine not far away in the marina, signaling that my
dream-like time aboard the Eilean was up and that reality was soon to take over…

(First Published in DNA Viva)

India… luxuriously yours!

Eponymous with the word luxury, India is a treasure trove of all things decadent and hedonistic. Raul Dias draws up a list of the best of the best this subcontinent has on offer for the sybarite in us all

“It is impossible to overdo luxury” is an old French proverb. One that seems as though it was conjured up after a glimpse into India’s rich tapestry of decadence that has over the years been woven with splendor, embellished with glitz and finished off with opulence. Ask any true-blooded ‘luxurista’ what images the word India triggers and be prepared to be assaulted with tales of traveling in extravagant trains, spending a few nights in impossibly beautiful palaces, decorating oneself with rubies the size of quail eggs, indulging in hedonistic day-long spa rituals, wearing ensembles made from the finest brocades and partaking in sumptuous feasts fit for a maharaja.
But before you begin to dismiss all this away as being “fables from an era long gone”, now would be the right time to sit up and read the fine print that says all this and so much more can be found in the India of today. Yes, India 2010 is as much luxurious as it was when Salvatore Ferragamo himself made a pair of black velvet and diamond slippers for Maharani Indira Devi of Cooch Behar in the early 1900s. A land where you can eat, stay, experience, wander and adorn yourself in the best your money can buy. You just need to know where to look and be prepared to submit yourself to the lure of luxe…


Stay
The Taj Mahal Palace Hotel in Mumbai may as well be another name for luxury and opulence. Though not a palace in the real sense of the word, it sure does imbue all the royalty, pomp and glory that is its forte. The 2008 terror attacks notwithstanding, the Grand Old Lady of Apollo Bunder as it is fondly called still shines her dazzling best with her marble lobbly decorated with a Husain mural and heritage wing that has true connoisseurs of art and beauty coming back for an encore glance of her time and again. With stellar and iconic restaurants like the Zodiac Grill, Wasabi and Shamiana, the Taj is regality personified. But India is perhaps the only country in the world where you can vicariously live the hedonistic lives of the maharajas of yore by spending a few nights, if not a lifetime in a real palace. With a cornucopia of hotels that have been carved out of palaces, luxurious stays in India are well within one’s reach. One such recent entrant on the scene is the Chomu Palace Hotel in Jaipur. The Palace is located in the quaint little town of Chomu, and stands as a 300-year old, fortified structure. Adopted by the Dangayach group, who out of pure passion for the property, undertook the exhaustive task of non-invasive restoration, and gave the once forlorn palace a new lease of life. The Chomu Palace hotel, Jaipur is a majestic three-storied structure, complete with the best of both worlds; an unmatchable regal ambience and every modern amenity that the contemporary traveller may need. With fifty-eight elegantly furnished suites, The Chomu Palace Hotel in Jaipur leaves no stone unturned when it comes to giving one the ultimate experience of royalty.
Deep in the heart of the jungle the rustic, but super luxurious Oberoi Vanyavilas that is part of The Ranthambore National Park is another jewel in the rough. It is the perfect base from which to explore the territory of the majestic tiger. Tiger sightings are most frequent during the months of May and June. While it is warm during the day, mornings and evenings are pleasant. The resort setting is picture-perfect with a dramatic watercourse and sun-kissed private decks. The luxury tents with finely embroidered canopies, spacious bathrooms and private walled gardens are in perfect contrast to the ruggedness of the jungle.
For a different sort of luxury experience head south to the lush ambrosial setting of Kerala to partake in all the Taj Garden Retreat in Kumarakom has to offer. Read: azure backwaters, swaying palms, and floating houseboats. These are a few of the things that inspired English Missionary Henry Baker, in the late 19th century, to acquire land on the banks of Vembanad Lake. Today, it is known as the Taj Garden Retreat, Kumarakom. Often referred to as the little jewel of Kumarakom, it still maintains the beauty of its rustic surroundings. The 123-year-old colonial bungalow houses newly built Luxury Villas, heritage rooms and charming cottages. At this idyllic retreat, guests can look forward to practicing the art of doing nothing or keeping themselves busy with a variety of experiences, from nature to adventure, from culture to cuisine, and from rejuvenation to religion. Go on… indulge yourself.


Eat
Luxury dining in India has always been an event in itself with khansamaas or cooks of the nawabs and maharajas painstakingly dishing out delectable, often gold and sliver leaf embellished dishes that took them hours if not days to prepare, complete with dry fruits and nuts enhancing their visual and edible appeal. Temples of fine dining in India like the Zodiac Grill and Indigo in Mumbai and Sakura in Delhi are revered for their decadent and ultra-expensive edible offerings that often rake up a six-figure bill for an intimate group of four! But over the last few years a revolution of sorts has invaded the traditional Indian kitchen simply called Molecular Gastronomy. One of the first chefs to bring this concept to out shores was Chef Jeetendra Kumar, the executive chef of Mumbai’s Taj Land’s End Hotel with his innovative spoonfuls of vodka pellets, fruit caviar and powder ice cream to tease the pallate. Chef Vicky Ratnani of Aurus in Mumbai too has been a pioneer of sorts with his unique dishes like Balsamic Air and the refreshing Beetroot Carpaccio. Speaking of Taj Land’s End, the Atrium Lounge of the hotel is a hotbed for innovative ‘non-veg’ cocktails like the bizarre but genius Bacon-vodka infused martini or the warm Chicken Consomme with Red Label whisky cocktail.
But what’s more interesting is that traditional Indian food too has gotten a much needed luxurious image makeover to be now called ‘Nouvelle Indian’ and to be put up there at gastronomy’s higher echelons of fine dining. A prime example of this trend is Ziya at the recently renovated The Oberoi Hotel in Mumbai. The Indian speciality restaurant that is under the direction of the two Michelin starred Chef Vineet Bhatia, is a fine dining experiment that works superbly. This means that here you will find scrumptious dishes like Hyderabadi aubergine steak filled with paneer and roasted sesame, uttapam lasagne layered with masala paneer and sambhar, and the luscious chocomosa (a chocolate-filled samosa) to round off your superlative meal.
One of India’s greatest connoisseurs of good food the legendary Jiggs Kalra too has chosen to tread the Indian fine dining path (albeit with a twist) with his Punjab Grill restaurants both in Mumbai and Delhi. Unsual and exotic are two words that best describe the edible options at the restaurants that comes up with wonders like the Kurkuri that are wonton rolls filled with mushroom, celery, olives, sun- dried tomatoes and pine nuts, dipped in corn flour batter, rolled in sevian and fried. Similarly a lot of effort has gone into the idea behind the Tandoori Broccoli, where each floret is packed with three varieties cheese, pimentos and olives, the Salmon Tikka and the very audacious, but supremely luxurious Tandoori Duck. It sure looks like its time for Indian fine dining to find a place for itself on the shelf of other stellar world cuisines. A true renaissance of luxurious dining, Indian style!


Experience
As the birthplace of the ancient science of Ayurveda and Yoga, India is a great place and one of the finest destinations in the world that offers a slice of rejuvenation and solace in spa heavens of tranquility and luxury. From mountainous retreats to desert oasis’ of calm, you won’t be hard pressed to find the spa that will not only put the ‘R’ back into relaxation, but also the ‘L’ back into luxury. Undoubtedly one the best spas in India, if not in the world, is the Ananda-In The Himalayas, a Spa Resort that is located in the lap of the Himalayas in Rishikesh, Uttarakhand. It is spread over 22,500 square feet of area and provides world class body treatments with a mixture of Ayurvedic and western therapies. Set amongst 100 acres of virgin forest and opened in September 2000, Ananda-In the Himalayas is built around a Maharaja’s palace estate and located 260 kilometers north of New Delhi. Besides the spa, the resort features a restored Viceroy’s Palace, 75 deluxe rooms and suites and 3 villas. Two of these villas are 2 bedroom villas and one is a single bedroom villa, with breathtaking views of the Ganges River and the mountainside.
The Wildflower Hall, Shimla also has one of the best spas in the world that is dedicated to your wellbeing with a pampering session like you’ve never had before. The spa offers holistic treatments based on Ayurvedic, Asian and Western therapies to relax, rejuvenate and inspire. With tranquil views through lush green cedar and pine forests, the Spa Pavilions offer stressed out guests a peaceful haven in which to revitalize themselves both inside and out.
Equally spectacular is The Serai, a luxury resort and desert spa near regal Jaisalmer in Rajasthan. Created by the world renowned for luxury spa company Reason d’Etre, The Serai has been drawing in spa lovers by the droves thanks to its extensive menu of treatments. Four treatment tents are set around a little garden and offer treatments designed to meet all needs - whether your tastes favour a rousing or relaxing massage, a foot reflexology or a cleansing scrub. The chemical free products, inspired by the Rajasthani environs, are blended from Indian herbs and spices that are both soothing and healing. Decadence at its best!


Adorn
Be it your body or your home, adornments in Indian luxury are an intrinsic and integral aspect of enjoying the good life. Indian couturiers like Tarun Tahiliani, Rohit Bal, Suneet Verma and the Grande Dame of Indian Fashion, Rityu Kumar leave out no stops in kitting you out in luxurious, one-of-their-kind wearable confections made from an array of opulent fabrics like pashmina, brocade and royal silk, using artisan embroidery techniques like zardozi, mokaish and ikat to embellish garments with contemporary silhouettes. The latest to join this illustrious bandwagon is Sabyasachi Mukherjee who has just recently opened his first signature luxury boutique in Mumbai which is already seeing a heavy influx of fashionistas thronging its gates for a piece of wearable art.
Jewellery houses like Popley, TBZ, Joyallukas, Notandas have over the years prided themselves as being purveyors of fine jewels and luxurious gems that are often antiques sold off by impoverished royalty that can now be yours. Even the western biggies like Cartier, Harry Winston, Tiffany and Van Cleef & Arpels are wooing the Indian glitterati with custom made baubles and buntings.
Scoping out that elusive Raza or Husain painting at one of the country’s many upmarket art galleries like Chemould and Pandol in Mumbai or The Vadehra Art Gallery and Nature Morte in Delhi is within the reach of anyone with an ample bank balance. But then again who said luxury was cheap?
Touting itself as India’s first Luxury Home Fashion brand, Maishaa in Mumbai is spread over an area of 1500 sq.ft. This exclusive store is a one-stop solution for all furnishing needs ranging from lavish bed linen to cushion covers to various fabrics for curtains and upholstery. For objets d’art, stores like Good Earth all over India, The Bombay Store in Mumbai and The Home Store in Bengaluru have all you need to kit your home out in style and luxury just as you do yourself. All part of leading the luxurious Indian life we say!

Wander
Train travel and India are synonymous with each other what with the country having one of the most extensive… and efficient rail networks in the world! It is no surprise then that India has some of the most luxurious all-inclusive train journeys you will ever find. India’s first privately managed luxury train, ‘The Indian Maharaja’ is rated at par with some of the best known trains worldwide. It has been included in the ‘World’s Top 25 Trains’ by The Society of International Railway Travellers alongside The Royal Scotsman, Danube Express, Royal Canadian Pacific, Blue Train amongst others. The itinerary brings you some of the best monuments of India. World Heritage sites of Ajanta and Ellora, Taj Mahal, Agra Fort, Fatehpur Sikri. You will be able to hear the call of the wild in the Ranthambhore National Park, one of the finest Tiger reserves in India and take in the splendour of the Venice of the East, city of Lakes – Udaipur and city of palace and forts – Jaipur.
Another uber-popular luxury train is The Palace On Wheels that has a great package to take in all the beauty of India. The travel package takes you to a vibrating journey to the royal land of sand dunes and regal palaces. Here you will visit the majestic expanse where Royal Rajputs lived in a grand style. Explore this imperial land on the Palace On Wheels, the luxurious train of India that carries with it an intrinsic ambience that goes perfectly well with the majestic charm and beauty spread so lavishly here and there in Rajasthan.
But its not just northern India that you can explore on a luxury train, the Deccan Odyssey train takes in the best of Maharashtra and Central India. The on-board arrangements on this train are by The Taj Group. Similar to the concept of widely popular Palace On wheels, this new luxury train offers traditional hospitality where you can relive the lavish era of 18th century Peshwa Rulers. The seven nights train journey traverses across the beaches of Western India and the Deccan plateau of Central India. You see glimpses of the brave exploits of near legendry 17th century Maratha Warrior King-Shivaji Maharaj. Luxury was never this good, trust us.

(First published in Time'n Style Luxury's August-September 2010 issue)

The Secret Town…

With its quaint Germanic charm and old-world appeal, the picture-perfect town of Hahndorf is South Australia’s best kept little secret, discovers Raul Dias


Think Australia, and images of Crocodile Dundee eating tons of Vegemite-n-toast on a hot Christmas day, while doffing his cork-rimmed Akubra hat, greeting you with a “G’day Mate!” kangaroo-jumps straight into your mind! Now, how about visions of men wearing lederhosen, munching on bratwurst-mit-brot and pretzels, while quaffing down pints of pale ale? Germany, you say. Still Australia, I reply!
Surprised? Well, I sure was one warm February morning as I found myself driving through some typically Australian countryside and, quite suddenly, entering a world which seemed to have been lifted from Central Europe and transported as it were, straight to Australia. Welcome to Hahndorf. Located just 28km southeast of Adelaide, the town of Hahndorf is a slice of Germany, replete with all the trappings like beer halls, Oompah bands and sauerkraut--things that you would expect to find in Bavaria.
To give a little historical spin to the place, my guide, Michael Hartley of Life is a Cabernet Tours explained to me that Hahndorf’s first settlement took place in 1839 when Prussian Lutheran families arrived there. The name “Hahndorf” was derived from Captain Dirk Hahn of the ship named ‘Zebra’, which arrived in Adelaide in 1838 with a party of immigrants from the Eastern Provinces of Prussia. Captain Hahn stayed on to see the new arrivals were settled, after having survived a horrendous journey by sea. He eventually selected an area near Mt Barker which his passengers named after him in recognition of his efforts.
History lesson over and done with it was time was a walk down the tiny streets of the town that was beginning to resemble something straight out of a Hansel and Gretel fairytale. Since it was still morning and the unforgiving Australian sun hadn’t yet made its infernal presence felt, my first stop was the ambrosial Beerenberg Farm. Dating back to the 1830s the farm was set up by one of Hahndorf’s oldest immigrant families, the Paech family. Since then five generations of the Paech family have lived and worked on the Beerenberg Farm which is currently owned by Grant and Carol Paech. The Beerenberg Farm boasts traditional crops which are grown on the farm and include strawberries, sweetcorn and mixed vegetables, but more recently Beerenberg has established an international reputation for its interesting and varied jams, home style pickles, chutneys and sauces. Virtually OD’ing on the scrumptious sample spread that I was plied on with, I bid my meager 20kg baggage allowance goodbye as I stocked up on tons of their goodies that would be my “This-is-what-I-got-you-from-Australia” gifts for friends and family.
With all that delicious retail therapy over and done with it was therapy of another kind--art. Now, if there is one town in South Australia that has the strongest concentration of art galleries, then it would have to be Hahndorf. From Contemporary art to Aboriginal art, you won’t have to look too hard to find it here. And The Hahndorf Academy is the ‘Holy Grail’ of all things artsy here. Built in 1839, it was one of the first permanent buildings in Hahndorf and is the largest regional art gallery in South Australia today. Once a primary school, Its central location is indicative of the importance attached to the cultural, scholastic, artistic and religious pursuit of the early German settlers. I was fortunate to experience the mastery of indigenous Aboriginal artist Natasha Parriman Lloyd whose exhibition titled ‘Gurlbil Tracks’ was on at that time. With her paintings, Natasha shares her bush tucker and culture stories combining centuries of her ancestors’ indigenous art designs from the Yawuru, Jabirr Jabirr and Yamatji tribes from Western Australia in a western style medium of acrylic paints on canvas. Sheer brilliance!
Still on the art trail, I simply had to visit The Cedars that I had heard so much about from my co-passenger on my flight into Adelaide from Singapore. Regarded as one of Australia’s National Treasures (and rightly so!) The Cedars was home for 56 years to the renowned artist Sir Hans Heysen. The historic house, studio and gardens are now thankfully open to the public to marvel at. Here one can find on view an extensive collection of the artist’s work still owned by the Heysen family, displaying Heysen’s remarkable versatility, not only in his varied medium, but also the broad range of his subject matter.
A little further down the main road, the historic German Arms Hotel looms into sight. An attractive hotel, distinguished by its typically German flower boxes, it was first established site in 1861 by the local publican Robert Hunt. It is now a popular destination for tourists wanting to watch other tourists walk up and down the main street. And that is just what I did beer in hand taking I sights like children playing in an old wooden horse carriage cart advertising the ‘Old Hahndorf Village Market’.
Despite the fact that I had just hours ago partaken in the bounties of the Beerenberg Farm, the incessant rumbling of my tummy was getting too vociferous to ignore, so Michael suggested a quick bite at the charming little delicatessen aptly named Taste in Hahndorf. A virtual treasure trove of delectable goodies like nougat, honey, cured meats, cheese and pretzels this deli proved to be my undoing as I tried out everything that the very loquacious sales person offered me. But if there is one thing that tops my list of all the edible treats tat I partook in here, then it would be the superlative Venison Chilli Mettwurst sausage that I packed up in multiples for future sinning. A quick dash into the charming brick-façade Ye Olde Ice creamery & Café for a spot of vanilla bean ice and boysenberry ice cream was the perfect foil to the slightly spicy after-taste of the Chilli Mettwurst.
With Australia leading the pack as far as new world wines are concerned it is no surprise then that even Hahndorf has its own bit to contribute to this distinction. Again, like most establishments in the town, the not-so-historic Hillstowe Wines, a family owned winery run by Chris and Hamish Lauri, is also located on the main street. This cool climate winery with an historic cellar door was established in 1980. The winery specializes in both red and white table wines derived from cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir, merlot, sauvignon blanc, riesling and chardonnay grapes. The libation that I tried that day was the sublime 1996 Mary’s Hundred Shiraz that has an interesting story behind it or so I was told by Chris Lauri. Apparently, Mary Lauri who was Chris’ great grandmother is said to be South Australia’s first registered female vigneron and winemaker who single-handedly took over the wine business after her husband died in 1876. That sure was some history in a glass for me!
Lunch was a simple affair at the aptly named Café 1839 that looked straight out of that time period with its Tudor style of exposed trusses and white-washed walls. It is no great secret that German food isn’t one of the best out there, but the nosh at this café was surprisingly great. Tucking into my plate of Weiner Snitzel smothered in a riesling sauce and served with potato dumplings made me realize that everyone and in this case everything needs to be given a second chance. Who would have known that a German restaurant in Australia above all places would cure me of my chronic disdain for the cuisine.
After all that conspicuous consumption, a good long walk was in order. So, I dragged the sybarite in me along--what else but Hahndorf’s nerve-centre of all activity--the main street for a ramble that serendipitously lead me to my most favourite find of the day. Located on the corner of Balhannah Road and Church Street just one block away from the Main Street, St Michael’s is the oldest Lutheran Church in Australia dating back to 1858 and dedicated on 3 July, 1859. In fact the first church in the town, built of pug and consecrated in 1840, operated on this site. It is one of two Lutheran churches in town and indication that there were doctrinal disagreements between the residents. Holding a maximum of 150 people, the church is rather tiny, but in keeping with the rest of diminutive Hahndorf seems to fit in perfectly. A raised sanctuary with a lectern and pulpit occupy one side of the altar, and the font, advent wreath and sediliae take up the other. On the wall behind the altar are some textual inscriptions in German, with one repeated in English.
So, after an hour or so of wandering around the church’s gardens, taking in the air laced with the perfume of lavender, I bid adieu to charming Hahndorf, ready to rejoin the ‘real’ world on the other side.
A place that truly gave me a vicarious thrill of life in Germany of the 1800s all in modern day Australia, you could say that Hahndorf is the closest thing you can find to a time capsule. A true blast from the past this!



Factfile
How To Get There: While Qantas has flights from Mumbai to Adelaide via Singapore, Singapore Airlines has flights from Mumbai, Delhi, Bengaluru, Chennai, Kolkata, Kochi, Hyderabad and Ahmedabad to Singapore from where one can connect to Adelaide. Hahndorf is a 20 minute drive from Adelaide on the South Eastern Freeway. Bus numbers 165M, 840F, 843F, 840X and 841F ply between Adelaide and Hahndorf’s Old Mill bus station and can be caught at the Adelaide bus terminal at Franklin Street.

When To Visit: The best time to visit Hahndorf is undoubtedly the summer months of December to February. But autumn (March to May) is equally magical with the entire area erupting into a riot of hues as the leaves change their colour.

Getting Around: Due to its compact size and with most of its attractions located right along the Main Street, Hahndorf is best navigated on foot.

Where To Stay:
1. The Manna
Tucked behind a revamped stone cottage in the heart of town, this motel complex is home to 50 stylish units. The Manna is also a smart alternative base for exploring the many attractions scattered along the eastern flanks of the nearby Mount Lofty Ranges.
25 Main St, Hahndorf SA 5245, Australia.
Phone: (08) 8388 1000/1800 882 682
Website: www.themanna.com.au

2. Hannah’s Cottage
With an artfully restrained country-chic interior, the snug cottage boasts a bright bedroom with bay window, spa bathroom and airy living space. Bonus features include outdoor dining, a floodlit tennis court and serene garden spaces.
‘Botathan’, Lot 14 Jones Rd, Balhannah, Hahndorf, SA 5245, Australia.
Phone: (08) 8388 4148
Website: www.hannahscottage.com.au

(First published in Outlook Lounge's August 2010 issue)