The ‘New’ New Nordic

Having ensnared the food world in its vice-like grip for the last couple of years, the New Nordic culinary movement is now a border-less one, going way beyond its Scandinavian progenitors. And one that’s spinning off myriad interpretations, with its back to basics, sustainable model being at the very core!

(This article first appeared in the Jan-Feb-March 2018 issue of HDFC Imperia magazine)

The Numbers don’t add up

From its numerologically enhanced spelling, to a menu with food and drink that’s all over the place (quite literally), Pergula makes a perfectly ho-hum debut as Colaba’s newest friendly neighbourhood gastropub!

By Raul Dias

Intrigued by a rather bombastic sounding press release talking of a ‘quaint gastropub in the heart of Colaba’, our first attempt at checking out Pergula—never mind the numerologically altered spelling of the garden feature, a pergola—is frustratingly futile. Despite aforementioned release and all other indicators on social media pointing out its opening time as 12.30pm, we are told it only opens at 2pm, before being summarily banished by the doorman. So, beware!   
Attempt number two the next day had us troop in at a more ‘kosher’ (from their viewpoint, at least) 2.45pm to find the place relatively full, with a mix of tourists, students and the odd on-a-late-lunch-break office goer. Seeming more like a night place than day, the dimly lit, smallish space—that serves as the mezzanine level section of the popular Café Royal—calls itself a cosy neighbourhood café and bar with an eclectic menu. One that references everything from the by-now-ubiquitous Cantonese baos to the even more ubiquitous Mexican nachos.
Instead, we call for a corn tempura roll (Rs 355) and are at once put off with our very first bite off the eight-piece sushi serving. Stale, flabby grains of rice, attempt to cling unenthusiastically to soggy bits of deep fried baby corn, with a pasty, peppermint-tasting blob standing in for the promised wasabi.
The French-inspired chicken Cordon Bleu (Rs 550) mercifully fares infinitely better. All this, thanks to the two juicy chicken breast roulades stuffed with ham and cheese, both enrobed with an an almost silken mushroom sauce and served with a side of basil-scented mashed potatoes.
Things quickly begin to spiral downwards again, when our plate of Mexican buff chilli (Rs 575) is plonked rather brusquely on to our table. Chewy, sinew-redolent bits of buffalo meat swim in an overtly sweet bell pepper sauce, with a side of limp, oily grilled veggies. The only saving grace is the accompanying buttery herbed rice that we wish we’d been served more of.
Our cunning bid at combining both a drink and a dessert by ordering the dough apple cinnamon freakshake (Rs 450) backfires, as we sip at a visually appealing, but watery milkshake that barely registers the presence of apple or cinnamon in it. We, perhaps, should have stuck to the rather pedestrian offerings in the dessert section, featuring a similar sounding trio of gooey chocolate with ice cream (Rs 250), molten chocolate with ice cream (Rs 275), and chocolate brownie with ice cream (Rs 250).
Maybe we’d have had better luck. Numerologically speaking, that is!  

   

TIME: 12.30pm to 1.30am
AT: Indian Mercantile Mansion, opposite Regal Cinema, Colaba.
CALL: 22883985/65140197

(An edited version of this review appeared in the 25th January 2018 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India https://www.mid-day.com/articles/mumbai-food-colaba-gastropub-disppoints-with-its-indifferent-service-and-confusing-menu/18976161)

The Carpaccio Redux

Who said that a carpaccio is all about thin slivers of raw, red meat? Restaurants across the city put a new spin on the Italian classic, sending out everything from a duck, coconut and even a dessert version of the refreshing appetiser!

By Raul Dias

Yellow Fin Tuna Carpaccio
This fishy iteration of the carpaccio at Ballard Estate’s The Clearing House sees beetroot tartare layered with potato and green apple, sitting atop a bed of thinly sliced yellow fin tuna carpaccio. All this is then jazzed up with a tangy citrus dressing. “The dish is loosely inspired by the Russian classic Selyodka Pod Shuboy which uses herring. But due to the scarce availability of good quality fresh herring, we substituted the fish component with tuna and placed the tartare on a bed of yellow fin tuna carpaccio instead, which worked beautifully,” says Nitin Kulkarni, executive chef.
At The Clearing House, 13-15 Calicut Street, Ballard Estate
Call 22683030
Cost Rs 650

Duck Carpaccio with Arugula and Orange Segments
Although it’s highly unusual (and a tad dangerous!) to see poultry prepared in this raw form as a carpaccio, we’ve not only eaten it and lived to tell the tale, but have loved this version of the carpaccio that’s being served at Dine at The Quarter with peppery arugula, capers, parmesan cheese and orange segments sitting atop it. “I always work with classic, old school recipes with a contemporary twist. Carpaccio is one of the classic dish particularly known for its thin slices of beef. However, duck is not commonly used for carpaccio as it has quite a gamey flavour. To avoid that, we remove the fat, sinew and marinate the duck in a citrus-based marinade overnight and freeze it which helps to soften the muscles and tenderise the meat,” says Nico Goghavala, co-founder, The Quarter.
At Dine at The Quarter, Royal Opera House, Mathew Rd, Opera House, Girgaon
Call 8329110638
Cost Rs 400

Scallop and Black Truffle Carpaccio
On the menu at Estella in Juhu is this lovely, delicate dish of scallops done carpaccio-style with decadent black truffles that is sophisticated, yet refreshing thanks to other ingredients like a burnt orange aioli, edible flowers and micro greens. “Scallops are one of my personal favourite and here, they are grilled on just one side. The raw juices of the mollusk, along with the truffle and the tang of the creamy burnt orange aioli is one lovely combination,” says Chef Rohan D’Souza, lead chef at Silver Beach Entertainment Hospitality pvt ltd.
At Estella, Nichani Kutir, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu
Call 7999998232/7999998212
Cost Rs 825

Trio of Beetroot with Coconut Carpaccio
While one might argue that the beetroot done three ways (pickled, braised and roasted) is the hero of this dish, it is the thin, quivering tender coconut carpaccio that truly elevates this dish—that’s accentuated with creamy, house-fermented coconut yogurt and spicy serrano chilli pepper salsa—to a gastronomic high. “Making carpaccio allows a chef to “show off” his culinary skills in terms of flavour, appearance and knife skills. Everything needs to be in just the right place, in order to create a perfect tasting—and looking—dish. My process for this dish started off with the freshest produce, the right temperature for all the ingredients, the perfect amount of seasoning, and above all, the slices; as that’s what carpaccio is ultimately all about,” says Rishim Sachdeva, head chef, Olive Bar & Kitchen.
At Olive Bar & Kitchen, 14 Union Park, Khar West
Call 43408229
Cost Rs 525

Carpaccio of Strawberries with Pea Shoots
Stretching the limits of creativity, this carpaccio at Izaya is not only a vegetarian one, but is a dessert to top it all! This dessert is made up of a strawberry yogurt namelaka ganache which is topped with fresh strawberries done carpaccio style, infused with basil and garnished with berry jelly, edible flowers and pea shoots which brings out the brightness of the dessert. “Traditionally, a carpaccio is a dish of raw meat that is thinly sliced. The inspiration for this dessert was to give the popular appetiser a dessert-esque spin! We’ve finely sliced the strawberries to simulate the look and texture of the original dish. It is further enhanced by the creamy texture of the namelaka and the crunch of the dulce rosher,” says pastry chef, Aniket Parkar.
At Izaya, NCPA, Gate No. 2, Nariman Point
Call 22821212
Cost Rs 550



The Original Carpaccio
Invented in 1950 by Giuseppe Cipriani from Harry’s Bar in Venice, Italy during an electricity outage, the carpaccio is named in honour of Vittore Carpaccio, the Venetian painter known for the characteristic red and white tones of his work. This analogy is apt, as a traditional carpaccio is a dish of raw, red meat, thinly sliced and served with lemon, olive oil, and white truffle or Parmesan cheese!

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 22nd January 2018 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India https://m.mid-day.com/amp/articles/mumbai-food-5-carpaccio-dishes-with-a-twist-you-can-try-at-city-eateries/18963182)

Waiter, There’s a Dessert in my Drink!

Is it a dessert or is it a cocktail? Precariously balancing that fine line are a host of dessert-inspired cocktails. We sweeten you up with a few such post dinner drinks.

By Raul Dias

Crème Brûlée Martini
This drinkable, ‘martinified’ version of a traditional crème brûlée is a custard and vanilla flavoured cocktail infused with vanilla vodka, replete with a hard-caramel shard to replicate the glassy top of the French dessert.
Available at Scribble Stories, 21B, Santhal ONGC Complex, Opposite Lilavati Hospital, Reclamation, Bandra (w), Mumbai
Call 022-26400754
Cost Rs 475

The Peche Melba
​While the classic dessert, the Peach Melba, was itself invented—again by Auguste Escoffier—in honour of famed Australian opera singer Dame Nellie Melba, this homage to a homage is a cocktail made from strawberry coulis, peach extract and some vanilla ice cream, all shaken with vodka. 
Available at Pandora Gastronomy and Bar, Ground Floor, Nyati Unitree, Nagar Road, Yerwada, Pune
Call 020-30189820
Cost Rs 375

Saucier
​Inspired by a classic dessert cocktail created by French pâtissier Auguste Escoffier, this version sees the pairing of sparkling wine, angostura bitters and maraschino cherry liqueur with bourbon and vanilla ice cream. And to make it still more dessert-esque, it is garnished with an edible nasturtium flower and silver dragées.
Available at The Runway Project, 2nd Floor, North Sky Zone, High Street Phoenix Mills, Lower Parel, Mumbai
Call 022-49151000
Cost Rs 825

Gingerbread Prohibition Pop-up
​This prohibition era-meets-dessert cocktail is a rather unusual melange of bourbon infused with caramel popcorn, espresso, gingerbread and popcorn syrups and a dash of all spice bitter, that’s all topped up with a splash of stout. And in keeping with the speakeasy theme of the drink, the cocktail glass comes wrapped in a sheet of newspaper!
Available at Prankster, Shop No. 8-9-10, First Floor, Sector 29, Gurugram
Call 0124-4266653/54
Cost Rs 425

Toblerone
This after-dinner cocktail that is the deceptively potent sum of its honey, cream, Baileys Irish Cream and dark rum parts, is a drinkable paean to the nougat and honey-redolent, undulating mountain peak-shaped Swiss chocolate bar—the Toblerone.
Available at Izaya, NCPA, Gate No. 2, Nariman Point, Mumbai
Call 022-22821212
Cost Rs 490

Willy Wonka
​No list of dessert cocktails can be complete without a nod to Willy Wonka. Named after him, this post-dinner martini cocktail sees whiskey, creme de cacao and dark chocolate shaken together and poured into a chocolate sauce lined martini glass that’s garnished with a chocolate shard.
Available at The Sassy Spoon, Express Towers, Ramnath Goenka Marg, Nariman Point, Mumbai
Call +91-9920003500
Cost Rs 420

(An edited version of this piece was first published in the 29th January, 2018 issue of India Today magazine https://www.indiatoday.in/magazine/leisure/story/20180129-dessert-cocktails-creme-brulee-martini-gingerbread-prohibition-pop-up-1149657-2018-01-19)

Restaurant Reviews by Raul Dias in Hindustan Times, Mumbai -Part 3

London Taxi, Mumbai

http://www.hindustantimes.com/mumbai-news/just-drive-past-new-restaurant-london-taxi-isn-t-worth-hailing/story-B0k933VkDDR0rbDUd6Y1JL.html

Taftoon, Mumbai

http://www.hindustantimes.com/mumbai-news/grand-trunk-call-taftoon-s-food-is-from-all-over-but-retains-focus/story-zSit8P1yZFQGPO0tjW7MvN.html

A-N-A-T-O-M-I-Z-E: The Levitating Dacquoise

By Raul Dias

As a high school student, studying physics—and all its associated principles, laws and theories—was one my least favourite things to do. With cookery and food tech being the exact opposite! Who would have guessed that one day, I’d be sitting down for the final course of a meal, seeing the two ‘consciously couple’ so very effectively? And while we’re all too familiar with the results of the collision of the world of food and chemistry aka. molecular gastronomy, a touch of physics has eluded us thus far.
Well, that’s exactly what happened to me at Izaya, the new Robata Thai restaurant at Mumbai’s NCPA. Grabbing every single eyeball in the room and making its presence felt rather spectacularly, The Levitating Dasquoise—sitting pretty in a glass bowl—literally glides across to my table, hovering precariously above a black plastic base, all thanks to the quantum mechanical effect called diamagnetism. To get all geeky on you, an applied magnetic field, both, at the base of the specially made glass bowl, and atop the black base stand, creates an induced magnetic field in the opposite direction, causing a repulsive force which makes the bowl levitate in thin air.  
In total sync with the levitating concept, the dacquoise itself is a super light confection that is made up of 54% Belgian Callebaut chocolate, Normandy Chantilly cream and tart, Mahabaleshwar strawberries. Tiny meringue kisses made with almond powder and soy lecithin are strewn about and the dessert is garnished with edible nasturtium flowers, micro greens and gold leaf.    

(This column first appeared in the 14th January 2018 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 8 http://www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/tp-features/tp-sundaymagazine/the-levitating-dacquoise/article22439867.ece)

Open Season!

Taking inspiration from the Swedish open sandwich—the smørrebrød—are a host of city cafés and restaurants that have decided to send out their sandwiches topless, giving you less carbs, more topping and the same amount of yumminess…

By Raul Dias

Soft Eggs and Fresh Andouille Sausage on Sourdough Toast
With its play on textures and flavours, from the runny egg to the smoky hit of the Bandel cheese, this open face sandwich is both complex and paradoxically simple at the same time. Here, poached eggs, fresh Louisiana-style Andouille sausage (choice of pork or chicken) sit on a sourdough toast slice that’s spread with green mustard, smoked Bandel cheese, cream cheese and finished off with a drizzle of gin mustard Hollandaise sauce. “At Toast & Tonic, each dish is comforting, yet gastronomically curious and the food—artisan inspired to modern. This, our signature open face sandwich is a perfect representation of our food philosophy. It’s inspired by the concept of eggs on toast with sausages, but with a completely different and refreshing take,” says Manu Chandra, Chef Partner, Toast & Tonic.
At Unit#1, Ground Floor, Jet Airways-Godrej Building, BKC, Bandra East
Call 26534722/7777049774
Cost Rs 400

Spiced Omelette, Feta and Fried Peppers Sandwich
With a whopping 10 versions of the open face sandwich on its menu, the new Café at The Quarter seems to have embraced this trend with a vengeance! We particularly liked the spiced omelette, feta cheese and fried peppers iteration that also has marinated mushroom and avocado slathered over a single slice of artisanal sour dough bread. “We are so confident about the ‘farm to table’ ingredients that we use at the Café, that we thought why not hero such fresh and healthy ingredients? That’s how we come up with the concept of the open face sandwich that features sour dough bread as its base with free range eggs, locally sourced feta cheese and farm fresh veggies.” says Executive Chef, Ajinkya More.
At Café at The Quarter, Royal Opera House, Mathew Rd, Opera House, Girgaon
Call 8329110638
Cost Rs 425

Open Face Avocado Toast  
This all-vegetarian salad bar—that makes an exception for the occasional egg preparation—serves up a heavily loaded open face sandwich. This one’s the yummy, and not to mention healthy, sum of its avocado, jalapeno, rocket leaves, flax seeds and beetroot shavings parts, that balance precariously atop a slab of multigrain bread with a smear of cream cheese to jazz it up a bit. “My personal love for avocado made me come up with this amazing fusion of something healthy, tasty and on trend at the same time,” explains the developer of this open face sandwich, Akansha Saigal, Head Chef, Ministry of Salads.
At Ministry of Salads, shop no 4, opp Tata Garden, Bhulabhai Desai Road, Breach Candy
Call 9769823777/9769802777
Cost Rs 230

Beet Hummus Toast
This open face toast sandwich at 212 All Good is the perfect example of how a handful of simple ingredients can result in something so exotic, tasty and not to mention beautiful to behold! Just beetroot hummus, topped with beet slices over a piece of gluten free bread are its components. Nothing more, nothing less. “When we started building 212 All Good, we made ourselves a promise – everything that goes into the plate has to be good for you. I wanted to create an appetiser that is light, bright and good for the gut, so we decided to make an open face Beet Hummus Toast. The crumbly texture of the gluten free bread blends perfectly well with the smooth beet hummus. Topped with pickled beet slices, makes it pleasing to the eye. Perfect to have before a meal or as a hearty snack!” says Chef Paul Kinny, Culinary Director Bellona Hospitality.
At 212 All Good, Grand West Zone, Ground Floor, High Street Phoenix, Lower Parel
Call 62216020
Cost Rs 295


Goat Cheese Avacado Toast
​A virtual meal in itself, this one at The Clearing House sees the pairing of luscious avocado chunks mashed with sweet and spicy fresh salsa verde on gluten-free, homemade sorghum toast and topped with goat cheese and cherry tomatoes. Best enjoyed with a perfectly poached egg on top, with a decadent splash of truffle oil. “Our menu is all about keeping it simple, and the avocado toast is one such simple, yet delightful dish loved the world over. We have spruced the good ol’ ‘avo toast’ by adding sweet and spicy salsa verde for an extra kick. The homemade sorghum bread and truffle poached egg makes this a perfect gluten-free brunch/lunch option,” explains Executive Chef Nitin Kulkarni.
At The Clearing House, 13-15 Calicut Street, Ballard Estate
Call 22683030
Cost Rs 650 

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 12th January 2018 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India https://www.mid-day.com/articles/mumbai-food-eateries-serve-swedish-inspired-topless-sandwiches-with-fewer-calories/18925177) 

Irish Nightmare!

Ridiculously overpriced drinks, almost inedible food and terrible service are just a few of the ingredients that make for a close to disastrous meal at a newly opened Andheri faux Irish pub  

By Raul Dias

Picture this. You’re all done with perhaps one of the worst meals of your life, during which you constantly rue the fact that you’ve wasted precious time you’ll never regain. You hand over your card to be swiped with a mighty sigh. The machine chimes in a cheery “payment accepted” beep, as does a phone text message from your bank, acknowledging the debit made from your account. You prepare to leave, but are accosted by the waitstaff and manger, claiming that their machine is faulty and rudely insisting that you cannot leave the premises till you to make another payment of the same amount. Again. Now!
But first, a little back story. Our tale of horrors at the newly opened G77 Club and Kitchen at the Goldfinch Hotel in Andheri’s industrial estate-saturated MIDC area actually begins at the entrance of the still-under-renovation lobby area. Not a soul knows what G77 is. On further probing, they suddenly realise that it’s the new name for the erstwhile Café Mojo and usher us towards the stairwell, where we begin our trek up two flights of stairs, almost tripping over puddles of wet concrete and loose floor tiles.
The restopub itself isn’t bad looking at all. In fact, it looks like any other faux Irish pub with wood panelled walls decorated with dart boards, beer posters and other pub-centric paraphernalia. Certainly not the kind of place where you’d expect a bottle of Dom Perignon Champagne to set you back by a jaw-dropping Rs 40,000. Yet, that’s exactly what you see on the cardboard menu, along with other shockers like a cocktail called finish me off for Rs 800 a pop (pun unintended!). Our cloyingly sweet fruit punch (Rs 375), a medley of orange-pineapple-mango and pouring cream is downright unpalatable and is at once cast aside.
Served in a shovel, one of our main courses—the super bland Arabic samak harra grilled fish (basa) with fries (Rs 375) arrives a good half hour before our appetisers! The latter being a quartet of bhaji in pav cones (Rs 160) that sees an overly salty veg bhaji stuffed into stale, dry bread cones. The BBQ buffalo chicken wings (Rs 300), accompanied by a spicy cheese dip fare a wee bit better, thanks to the smoky sauce that coats the generously plump wings. The stodgy and boring basa shows up once again in the soggy fish-n-chips with a pesto tartare (Rs 400).
Far from satiated, we call for a thin crust pizza corn funghi (Rs 250) and are at once put off with a measly, six-inch thick based doughy pie topped with baby corn, watery sautéed mushroom and a coating of cold, processed cheese. For dessert, the same old dry pav cones show up in the Caribbean puff scones (Rs 175), stuffed this time with a crunchy, underdone gajar halwa with a squirt of rancid whipped cream stepping in for the promised ‘Malibu cream’. Nothing remotely Caribbean or scone-like this one. 
We’d simply have got to be masochists to return to a nightmare called G77. And that’s putting it mildly.

TIME: 12pm to 1.30am
AT: Goldfinch Hotel, 34/21, Central Road, Near Akruti Centre Point, MIDC, Andheri East.
CALL: 66880909/8691055872

(An edited version of this review appeared in the 9th January 2018 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India https://www.mid-day.com/articles/mumbai-food-why-this-new-andheri-faux-irish-pub-fails-to-impress/18910165)

Cruise Control!

A Baltic Sea cruise aboard the gigantic Norwegian Getaway Cruise Ship on an epic eight-day journey, taking in the wonders of Denmark, Germany, Estonia, Russia, Finland and Sweden is the stuff dreams are made of, says Raul Dias

To be brutally honest, going on a cruise was never my thing. Having been on three not-so-fun cruises before, I had resolutely made up my mind to shun this type of a journey-cum-vacation that seems to curry fond favour with the over 60s crowd. Yes, I’d always felt that going on my fourth cruise was something I’d reserve for the autumn of my life. Certainly, never in my wildest dreams would I have imagined going on one in my mid-30s. That too, all by myself!

Great Expectations
But then, as the saying goes “never say never”. And so, this year, in early October, I found myself at Copenhagen airport taking in a crisp autumn morning, as I hopped into a taxi to ferry me to the nearby seaport to board the mighty Norwegian Getaway cruise ship which is one of ‘big girls’ of the Norwegian Cruise Line company. So, what made me change my mind about cruising? Two major factors: for one the eight-day itinerary was a magical one looping around the Baltic Sea, making ports of call in six different countries Denmark, Germany, Estonia, Russia, Finland and Sweden after retuning back to Denmark. Secondly, the ship itself, I had read up, was nothing short of stunning.
This behemoth’s overall length is an impressive 1068.3ft, with its hull bearing a colourful mermaid mural by the famous Cuban-American artist David LeBatard. Rivalling any Mumbai skyscraper, it has 18 decks. With a capacity to accommodate 3,963 guests it’s a virtual floating city. And to take care of them all, the Getaway carries 1,646 crew members and staff.
Sailing the Baltic Sea for a good part of the year, this ship makes its way to the warmer climes of the Bahamas for a series of different Caribbean Sea itineraries for the winter.

Home Away From Home
Given my acute claustrophobia, I chose a cabin on deck 12 with a balcony and was given a super plush one at the very end of the ship in the aft section from where I could see nothing but the ocean as the ship cut a swathe through the cerulean waters of the Baltic Sea. On board, all my creature comforts were taken care of, from a well-stocked library to a fitness center to burn off all those post-indulgence calories at. And for a thoroughly relaxing time there was always the Mandara Spa on deck 15.
And while it does have the ‘expected of a cruise’ entertainment options like a casino, illusionists and musicals like Million Dollar Quartet on offer daily, the Getaway has what few others have. To begin with, the unique Rope’s Course on its topmost 18^th deck is a Pirates of the Carribbean-esque obstacle course where you can also ‘walk the plank’ on the wooden ledge that precariously teeters along the edge of the ship, dangling over the water.
The Getaway is even home to Svedka, the world’s first floating ice bar where drinks are served out of tumblers made from clear, crystal ice. But the piece de resistance has simply got to be the ultra-exclusive and posh The Haven. Now, this members-only zone housed on the top of the ship has its own luxurious accommodations including suites, private lounges and dining options, along with a personal concierge and 24-hour butler service. 
Speaking of F&B, the Getaway has 28 restaurants and bars, including an all-day buffet and a Brazilian churrascaria-style restaurant called Moderno. But my personal favourite throughout the cruise turned out to be Teppanyaki with its outstanding food and fun, interactive Teppanyaki chefs who made dining here always so full of entertainment and laughs.

A Few Magical Pit Stops
After leaving Denmark, our first stop was at the port of Warnemunde in Germany from where we boarded a train for a 2.5 hours journey to the fascinating city of Berlin. Our very exciting city tour of Berlin took in the top ten highlights of the city with photo stops made at the East Side Gallery, a 3/4 mile section of the Berlin Wall, Checkpoint Charlie and at the Bebelplatz, one of the most beautiful squares in the city. We even passed by Potsdamer Platz where the first hole in the Berlin Wall was made and which today is a block of glass and steel skyscrapers.
Tallinn, the sleepy, quaint little capital city of Estonia was our next stop where we first took an hour-long ride to the town of Rakvere, before exploring the main city. After a visit to the Citizen Museum, we made our way to the partially ruined, 13th century Rakvere Castle to see weapons, the Torture Chamber and Hell Chamber. At the entrance to the castle you’ll find an enormous sculpture of a bull called Tarvas, standing in guard of the town. A medieval lunch with Estonian beer was served to us in the castle restaurant where we also learnt about distilling in Estonia and we also got to sample Estonian spirits like schnapps and vodka. Back in Tallinn, our first stop was at the Tall Hermann Tower. We then walked through the Palace Square with the Parliament House of Estonia and the Russian Orthodox Church. The stroll then took us over the cobblestone lanes for an outside visit of the famous St. Mary’s Cathedral “Dome Church” from 1233 with panoramic viewpoints where we could even see our gigantic ship docked at the harbour!

Stunning St Petersburg
But among all the stops on the journey—and believe me there were many beautiful ones—the most magnificent one is the one I’ve saved for last. St Peteresburg. Our early morning tour took us outside of the city to the historical town of Pushkin as we drove through the Egyptian Gates, the entrance to the Tsar’s Village in Pushkin. Catherine’s Palace in the Tsar’s Village ranks as one of the masterpieces of world art. Peter the Great presented the estate to his wife Catherine in 1710 and on it, a small palace built by architect Braunstein. From this time until the time of the last Russian Tsar, Tsar’s Village was used as the summer residence of the Royal Family. In 1756, Bartelomeo Rastrelli expanded the palace in Baroque style. Its grandiose, white and gold facade stretches 978 feet.
The palace tour took us through the series of magnificent rooms, including the famous Picture Gallery, the Great Hall and the world famous Amber Room. The parks of the estate add to the splendor of the palace, and several of them are embellished with a number of charming pavilions. Interestingly, the town of Pushkin is famous not only for its remarkable palace and parks, but the man it was named after – Alexander Pushkin who was the most celebrated poet in the country and a resident of this town at the beginning of the 19th century.
After a quick lunch of Russian salad (yes, it’s very much a real Russian dish!), lamb stroganoff and a shot of vodka, we drove back to the city for a tour of the Hermitage Museum, the largest art museum in Russia and the most prestigious museum in the world that occupies the Winter Palace, the winter residence of the Russian Tsars and four more buildings.
A truly majestic end to an epic trip that has instilled in me the joy and lure of cruising like never before. A true ‘Getaway’ in more ways than one!

FACT FILE

Getting There
You will need to fly in to Copenhagen, Denmark, as one needs to board the Norwegian Getaway cruise ship from the port there. Though there are no direct flights from Mumbai to Copenhagen, you can connect via Paris, Munich or Dubai. There are several taxi companies that take you from the airport to the seaport in Copenhagen for around USD 65 one way.

Visas
As the ship makes ports of call in Germany, Estonia, Finland and Sweden, you will need a Danish Schengen visa for the cruise, as your first and last stop is Copenhagen and the same can be procured via the VFS service in Mumbai and across India. You don’t need a Russian visa for the St Petersburg stopover if you’ve booked an excursion with the cruise company.

When To Visit
There is little doubt that the glorious spring and summer months, from April to July, are the best times to embark onto this cruise journey.

For More Information Visit
* www.ncl.com

(A shorter, edited version of this article appeared in the 5th January 2018 issue of the Afternoon Despatch & Courier newspaper, India on page 20 http://www.afternoondc.in/48-hrs/cruise-control/article_212904)

There’s a Dessert in my Tipple!

Is it a dessert or is it a cocktail? Precariously balancing that fine line are a host of dessert-inspired cocktails that restaurants and bars across the city are urging us to try this party season. We sweeten you up with a few post dinner drinks.

By Raul Dias

Hard Caramel Crème Brûlée Martini
Replete with a hard-caramel shard to replicate the glassy top of a true-blue crème brûlée, this drinkable alcoholic dessert at the recently opened Scribble Stories in Bandra is a custard and vanilla flavoured cocktail infused with vanilla vodka and a layer of the aforementioned hard caramel garnish. “The idea behind the dessert cocktail was to create a party in a glass. Most celebrations are incomplete without indulging in copious amounts of alcohol and desserts and that is what inspired us to blend the two and create one sweet, boozy potion,” explains the developer of this cocktail, Chef Nester Gracias, Scribble Stories - All Day Dining.
At Scribble Stories, 21B, Santhal ONGC Complex, Opposite Lilavati Hospital, Reclamation, Bandra (w)
Call 26400754
Cost Rs 475

Blonde
​A play on the brownie’s paler sibling—the blondie, this dessert-inspired cocktail at the brand new The Runway Project in Lower Parel, is an unusual mix of key ingredients that make this drink a fashionable tipple. A concoction of milk, vanilla ice cream and mascarpone cheese, all blended with limoncello and finished off with a pinch of granulated sugar is the Blonde. “This drink is inspired by a rich cheese cake. Mixing milk and alcohol is not common in India and the result achieved can be astonishing. We thought of giving this a spin by adding liquor,” explains Varun Sudhakar, Head Innovation and Operations (Beverages), The Project series.
At The Runway Project, 2nd Floor, North Sky Zone, High Street Phoenix Mills, Lower Parel
Call 49151000
Cost Rs 775

Toblerone
A homage to the nougat and honey-redolent Swiss chocolate bar, Toblerone at Nariman Point’s Izaya is an after-dinner cocktail of honey, cream, Baileys and dark rum that invokes all things dessert. “The purpose of the Toblerone was to encourage the sale of alcohol towards the end of the meal. Also, the lack of interest in alcoholic desserts pushed us to create a cocktail that can be best enjoyed after the meal. The inspiration was the chocolate after which the drink is named, represented by the chocolate garnish and honey in the drink,” says Marzban Amroliwalla, Chef, Research and Development, Izaya.
At Izaya, NCPA, Gate No. 2, Nariman Point
Call 22821212
Cost Rs 490

The Ibrahimovic
Stunning to look at and inspired by the White Russian, this one at The Quarter, Opera House is a local, hipster take on the White Russian that’s also slightly elevated. So, as its ingredients it has cold brew coffee, brandy, buttermilk, malai and orange bitters—all giving it a dessert-esque appeal! “It’s an eclectic take on the White Russian which is truly a classic cocktail. Making them and serving them for over 20 years, I was fascinated by ways to enhance the White Russian. Drinking lassi on the streets of Mumbai and Amritsar, the thickness of it caused by high quality milk and the malai on the top makes it special. I wanted to bring about this sensation to the White Russian and by using a high-quality brandy and some orange bitters for a citrus note really managed to elevate this classic drink into the Quartersphere!” says Nico Goghavala, Co-founder, The Quarter.
At The Quarter, Royal Opera House, Mathew Rd, Opera House, Girgaon
Call 8329110638
Cost Rs 550

Thyme-scented Chocolate Caramel Cookie Shots
With a name larger than its actual size, this dessert cocktail shot is a great way to end a meal at Jeon in Juhu. Who needs to eat dessert when you can down it in a shot, right? This one’s an interesting cocktail recipe made with a twist of taste and flavour using chocolate cookie crumbs, Belgian chocolate ice cream, triple sec and Baileys Irish cream and few leaves of thyme that are all blended together to perfection, giving it that rich and creamy texture. The drink is then poured into shot glasses, topped with a dehydrated slice of orange, gooey chocolate cookie and garnished with a sprig of fresh thyme. “I tried making a dessert using the same ingredients, but it lacked flavour and texture. I thought of coming up with a drink instead, where the crunchy cookie crumbs marry the richness of the silky texture of the drink and complement each other well,” says Chef Jerson Fernandes, Executive Chef, Sea Princess Hotel.
At Jeon, Sea Princess Hotel, Ground Floor, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu
Call 26469500
Cost Rs 599


Cinnamon Crème Brûlée Martini
This one’s for both—the James Bond fan and the dessert loving ‘grown up kid’ in you! A delectable drinkable dessert in a martini glass, the Cinnamon Crème Brûlée Martini at Khar’s Radio Bar may seem a complex concoction, but is ridiculously simple to put together. Take 45ml vanilla vodka, 60ml fresh cream and blend them in a cocktail shaker along with six ice cubes. Serve this in a martini glass and dust with cinnamon powder. “My idea behind coming up with this was to combine the world-famous dessert crème brûlée and curate something very refreshing and delectable at the same time. Serving it chilled, in appropriate amounts adds up to the flavour even more,” says Nixon D’Souza, Brand Manager, Radio Bar.
At Radio Bar, Ground Floor, Hotel New Castle, Linking Road, Bandra (w)
Call 9769755542/9769355503
Cost Rs 420

(An edited version of this review appeared in the 4th January 2018 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India https://www.mid-day.com/articles/mumbai-food-cocktails-get-a-dessert-inspired-twist-at-city-bars-and-restaurants/18891162)

Edible Icons!

 

The Others…

·         Not content with laying claim to the Waldorf Salad alone, The Waldorf Astoria hotel in New York is also the place where Eggs Benedict was first invented in 1894 at the behest of a Wall Street stockbroker named Lemuel Benedict, who instructed the chef to construct his poached eggs dish just the way he wanted them—Hollandaise sauce et al! 

·         An unknown hotel chef in Wellington, New Zealand, is said to have created the cloud-like meringue and fruit dessert we know today as the Pavlova for the famous Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova, who visited there in 1926 on her world tour.

·         We have the American hotelier Bertha Palmer of the Palmer House in Chicago to thank for the diet/stress/blues-busting gooey Brownie,s who created it along with her chef at the hotel for the World’s Columbian Exposition held in Chicago in 1893.

·         It was in 1892 when Dame Nellie Melba, the famed Australian opera singer paid a visit to The Savoy in London, that the equally legendary French pâtissier Auguste Escoffier created the Peach Melba in the prima donna’s honour.

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the January 2018 issue of Jetwings Domestic in-flight magazine of Jet Airways https://www.jetairways.com/EN/DE/JetExperience/magazines.aspx) 

Gardens of the Bard

For many, the concept of a literary garden evokes William Shakespeare and a sweet-perfumed floral arrangement of rosemary, violets, lilies and roses that find fond mention in the Bard’s works. No great surprise then, Shakespeare Gardens can be found all over the world with some landscaped in the style popular during his lifetime, while some, a riot of flowers, herbs and other botanicals. We take you to a few…

By Raul Dias

“I know a bank where the wild thyme blows
Where oxlips and the nodding violet grows
Quite over-canopied with luscious woodbine,
With sweet musk-roses and with eglantine.”
—A Midsummer Night’s Dream

Shakespeare’s Flowers at the Golden Gate Park, San Francisco
The Golden Gate Park is a mammoth, urban park consisting of 1,017 acres of public grounds with everything from a well-appointed Japanese Tea Garden to hosting the San Francisco Botanical Garden at Strybing Arboretum. But neatly tucked away at the intersection of the garden’s Martin Luther King Jr. Drive and Middle Drive East is a fecund spot with a sundial at its dead centre. Simply called Shakespeare’s Flowers, this Shakespeare Garden was planted in 1928 under the patronage of Alice Eastwood, the then director of botany for the Academy of Sciences. With over 200 flowers and plants lining this modest-sized garden, visitors can find visual, floral references to the Bard’s staggering body of work. Here, bronze plagues are engraved with notable quotations from his historic comedies, tragedies, and sonnets that accompany the floral arrangements.
Entry: Free

The Shakespeare Park at Herzogspark, Regensburg
Germany’s south-eastern city of Regensburg in Bavaria is famous for its location, as it is situated at the confluence of the Danube, Naab and Regen rivers. But its greatest calling card to a die-hard Shakespeare fan is the Herzogpark—a tiny, municipal park with an even smaller botanical garden dedicated to William Shakespeare. The Shakespeare Park is designed as an alpine garden meets Renaissance garden, replete with bell flowers, carnations, primroses, and rhododendrons, besides of course, a rose garden. Set in the Renaissance style of geometric parterres edged by boxwood hedges, the Shakespeare Park is a peaceful nook where you can almost always find someone sitting on one its low, stone benches, engrossed in a book.
Entry: Free

Shakespeare Garden at Johannesburg Botanical Garden, Johannesburg
Gritty and chaotic Jo’berg—as the locals call their city of Johannesburg—is probably the last place on earth you’d expect to find a Shakespeare Garden. But this 81-hectare large green lung, situated in the otherwise bleak suburb of Emmarentia harbours a beautiful little secret at its very center. Established as a rose garden in 1964, the Shakespeare Garden has over 10,000 roses in bloom almost every day, besides a fine collection of herbs like rosemary and thyme as mentioned in the Bard’s plays. Being in Africa, the garden that overlooks the Emmarentia Dam, has an abundance of local bird life, such as ibises and weavers, and one can even feed the ducks and geese at Bird Island. And during concert season expect to be enthralled by a Shakespearean performance or two.
Entry: Free

The Vienna Shakespeare Garden at the Kagran School Gardens, Vienna
The newest Shakespeare Garden on our list that opened a little over a decade ago in 2005, The Vienna Shakespeare Garden is one of the best homages to the Bard. One enters this arboreal paradise through the ‘Laburnum Walk’, a floral tunnel created solely out of laburnum plants and is greeted by five distinct beds of flowers. A shady bed, a bed with afternoon sun, a magnificent display bed, a herbal bed and a classic English-style flower bed where each plant features a corresponding quote from a selection of Shakespearean literature. In fact, the garden even has a sign indicating the direction and distance of Shakespeare’s birthplace, Stratford-upon-Avon!
Entry: Free

The Shakespeare Garden at New Place, Stratford-upon-Avon
The ‘holy grail’ of all things William Shakespeare and a must-visit for the Bard’s legion of worshippers, is Stratford-upon-Avon in England’s West Midlands. And his last home, New Place is Ground Zero. This stately home that was reopened in April 2016 after a lengthy refurbishment, to coincide with the quatercentenary of Shakespeare’s death is also famous for being the place that hosts the most beautiful of all Shakespeare Gardens. Here, the mansion’s three zones are connected to each other by the garden that features rows of plants such as mulberry and rose with commemorative flags representing all of Shakespeare’s plays fluttering above the plants. The Bard’s sonnets and longer plays are represented by a ribbon of white bronze darts set into the stonework of the wall that hems the garden in.
Entry: £17.50 (adult) and £11.50 (child)

America’s Shakespeare Gardens
Cottoning onto the early 20^th century craze for the Shakespeare Garden, when everything English was considered ultra-trendy, a host of popular public parks and university gardens across the United States fashioned for themselves their own spots to pay homage to the Bard:

·         The Shakespeare Garden at Pittsburgh’s Mellon Park is devoted to herbs and medicinal plants.

·         Perfumed with the fragrance of pansies and musk-roses, the Shakespeare Garden at Manhattan’s Central Park is a breath-taking place to visit. It is also the place where the mulberry tree is said to have come from Shakespeare’s property at his final home, New Place in Stratford-upon-Avon.

·         Believed to be America’s first Shakespeare Garden is the one in Evanston, Illinois.

·         The Shakespeare Garden at Gordon Park in Cleveland was built in 1916 in honour of the tercentenary of Shakespeare’s death.

·         Also created in 1916 is the Shakespeare Garden at Vassar University in Poughkeepsie, New York, by a group of English literature and botany students.

A Quartet of Shakespeare’s ‘flowery’ Verses

·         Roses:
“I have seen roses damask’d, red and white,
But no such roses see I in her cheeks…”
—Sonnet 130

·         Daisies and Violets:
“When daisies pied and violets blue
And lady-smocks all silver-white
And cuckoo-buds of yellow hue
Do paint the meadows with delight.”
—Love’s Labours Lost (5.2.900-4)

·         Lilies:
“Like the lily,
That once was mistress of the field and flourish’d,
I’ll hang my head and perish.”
—Henry VIII (3.1.168-70)

·         Poppy and Mandrake:
“Not poppy, nor mandragora,
Nor all the drowsy syrups of the world,
Shall ever medicine thee to that sweet sleep
Which thou owedst yesterday.”
—Othello (3.3.368-71)

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the January 2018 issue of Jetwings Domestic in-flight magazine of Jet Airways https://www.jetairways.com/EN/DE/JetExperience/magazines.aspx)