There’s a Dessert in my Tipple!

Is it a dessert or is it a cocktail? Precariously balancing that fine line are a host of dessert-inspired cocktails that restaurants and bars across the city are urging us to try this party season. We sweeten you up with a few post dinner drinks.

By Raul Dias

Hard Caramel Crème Brûlée Martini
Replete with a hard-caramel shard to replicate the glassy top of a true-blue crème brûlée, this drinkable alcoholic dessert at the recently opened Scribble Stories in Bandra is a custard and vanilla flavoured cocktail infused with vanilla vodka and a layer of the aforementioned hard caramel garnish. “The idea behind the dessert cocktail was to create a party in a glass. Most celebrations are incomplete without indulging in copious amounts of alcohol and desserts and that is what inspired us to blend the two and create one sweet, boozy potion,” explains the developer of this cocktail, Chef Nester Gracias, Scribble Stories - All Day Dining.
At Scribble Stories, 21B, Santhal ONGC Complex, Opposite Lilavati Hospital, Reclamation, Bandra (w)
Call 26400754
Cost Rs 475

Blonde
​A play on the brownie’s paler sibling—the blondie, this dessert-inspired cocktail at the brand new The Runway Project in Lower Parel, is an unusual mix of key ingredients that make this drink a fashionable tipple. A concoction of milk, vanilla ice cream and mascarpone cheese, all blended with limoncello and finished off with a pinch of granulated sugar is the Blonde. “This drink is inspired by a rich cheese cake. Mixing milk and alcohol is not common in India and the result achieved can be astonishing. We thought of giving this a spin by adding liquor,” explains Varun Sudhakar, Head Innovation and Operations (Beverages), The Project series.
At The Runway Project, 2nd Floor, North Sky Zone, High Street Phoenix Mills, Lower Parel
Call 49151000
Cost Rs 775

Toblerone
A homage to the nougat and honey-redolent Swiss chocolate bar, Toblerone at Nariman Point’s Izaya is an after-dinner cocktail of honey, cream, Baileys and dark rum that invokes all things dessert. “The purpose of the Toblerone was to encourage the sale of alcohol towards the end of the meal. Also, the lack of interest in alcoholic desserts pushed us to create a cocktail that can be best enjoyed after the meal. The inspiration was the chocolate after which the drink is named, represented by the chocolate garnish and honey in the drink,” says Marzban Amroliwalla, Chef, Research and Development, Izaya.
At Izaya, NCPA, Gate No. 2, Nariman Point
Call 22821212
Cost Rs 490

The Ibrahimovic
Stunning to look at and inspired by the White Russian, this one at The Quarter, Opera House is a local, hipster take on the White Russian that’s also slightly elevated. So, as its ingredients it has cold brew coffee, brandy, buttermilk, malai and orange bitters—all giving it a dessert-esque appeal! “It’s an eclectic take on the White Russian which is truly a classic cocktail. Making them and serving them for over 20 years, I was fascinated by ways to enhance the White Russian. Drinking lassi on the streets of Mumbai and Amritsar, the thickness of it caused by high quality milk and the malai on the top makes it special. I wanted to bring about this sensation to the White Russian and by using a high-quality brandy and some orange bitters for a citrus note really managed to elevate this classic drink into the Quartersphere!” says Nico Goghavala, Co-founder, The Quarter.
At The Quarter, Royal Opera House, Mathew Rd, Opera House, Girgaon
Call 8329110638
Cost Rs 550

Thyme-scented Chocolate Caramel Cookie Shots
With a name larger than its actual size, this dessert cocktail shot is a great way to end a meal at Jeon in Juhu. Who needs to eat dessert when you can down it in a shot, right? This one’s an interesting cocktail recipe made with a twist of taste and flavour using chocolate cookie crumbs, Belgian chocolate ice cream, triple sec and Baileys Irish cream and few leaves of thyme that are all blended together to perfection, giving it that rich and creamy texture. The drink is then poured into shot glasses, topped with a dehydrated slice of orange, gooey chocolate cookie and garnished with a sprig of fresh thyme. “I tried making a dessert using the same ingredients, but it lacked flavour and texture. I thought of coming up with a drink instead, where the crunchy cookie crumbs marry the richness of the silky texture of the drink and complement each other well,” says Chef Jerson Fernandes, Executive Chef, Sea Princess Hotel.
At Jeon, Sea Princess Hotel, Ground Floor, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu
Call 26469500
Cost Rs 599


Cinnamon Crème Brûlée Martini
This one’s for both—the James Bond fan and the dessert loving ‘grown up kid’ in you! A delectable drinkable dessert in a martini glass, the Cinnamon Crème Brûlée Martini at Khar’s Radio Bar may seem a complex concoction, but is ridiculously simple to put together. Take 45ml vanilla vodka, 60ml fresh cream and blend them in a cocktail shaker along with six ice cubes. Serve this in a martini glass and dust with cinnamon powder. “My idea behind coming up with this was to combine the world-famous dessert crème brûlée and curate something very refreshing and delectable at the same time. Serving it chilled, in appropriate amounts adds up to the flavour even more,” says Nixon D’Souza, Brand Manager, Radio Bar.
At Radio Bar, Ground Floor, Hotel New Castle, Linking Road, Bandra (w)
Call 9769755542/9769355503
Cost Rs 420

(An edited version of this review appeared in the 4th January 2018 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India https://www.mid-day.com/articles/mumbai-food-cocktails-get-a-dessert-inspired-twist-at-city-bars-and-restaurants/18891162)

Risotto—Desi Ishtyle!

From a chicken cafreal-laced iteration to one that eschews the more the de rigueur arborio rice in favour of gobindobhog rice—the risotto is being re-imagined by Mumbai restaurants and how…

By Raul Dias

Venice to Lucknow
This culinary hybrid is made by infusing the spirit of Lucknow and Venice by marrying ingredients and flavours from the two food capitals of the world. The rice used is basmati and arborio in equal quantities and is delicately flavoured with Awadhi spices like mace, dried rose petals and green cardamom, and then scented and soaked with Merlot. A quartet of juicy galouti kebabs are topped over the risotto with farm fresh veggies and parmesan cheese, with desi ghee to finish it off. The dish is accompanied by a glass of Italian red wine and a spicy flat bread.
At Jeon, Hotel Sea Princess, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu
Call 26469500
Cost Rs 1,099

Sambhar Risotto
While one might argue that this one seems like a jazzed-up version of a humble sambhar rice, let us assure you that this risotto is anything but! Firstly, good quality, perfectly al dente arborio rice is used as its base, to which a tangy, thick sambhar sauce is introduced. Secondly, continuing the desi motif, curry leaves and fried methi (fenugreek) fronds are sprinkled all over the dish, further accentuating its Indian leanings.
At Canto Cafe and Bar, 534, BCMA, SVP Road, Opera House
Call 49711813
Cost Rs 360

Chicken Cafreal Risotto
A riff on the tangy Goan cafreal, this colonial-desi-inspired risotto is served with a grilled chicken breast. Adapted from a Portuguese-Mozambican slave recipe, cafreal is a marinade made from fresh coriander leaves, mint, spices and toddy vinegar. The flavour of the toddy vinegar is what elevates the entire risotto, which is then garnished with parmesan shavings and a sprinkling of pine nuts.
At Radio Bar, Hotel New Castle, Linking Road, Bandra West
Call 9769755542, 9769355503
Cost Rs 450

Dal Makhani Risotto
The perfect amalgamation of Indian flavours and Italian techniques in one dish. The richness of dal makhani, cream and risotto rice with a goat’s cheese garnish is not just filling, but comforting too. One bite of this risotto is enough to bring back to you your Dadi’s homemade food memories, reminding you that a little nostalgia is always great.
At The Terrace, Hotel King’s International Compound, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu
Call 9665295999
Cost Rs 445

Mushroom and Asparagus Risotto with Gobindobhog Rice
In this signature dish of the brand-new eatery, they use the famous short grain, aromatic rice called gobindobhog from Bengal in lieu of the traditionally used arborio rice. This is because the former has the right amount of starch to give the risotto its creamy texture. The addition of the sweet potato leaves and the very desi mustard oil is in keeping with T&T’s philosophy of embracing the best of regional produce and locally-sourced ingredients in a dish, yet serving it with a fresh take.
At Toast & Tonic, Ground Floor, Jet Airways-Godrej Building, ​​BKC, Bandra East
Call 26534722/7777049774
Cost Rs 460

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 9th June 2017 issue of the of Mid-Day newspaper, http://www.mid-day.com/articles/italian-risotto-desi-mumbai-restaurants-food-news/18322196)

Raising The Bar!

Forget about the rather common chakna and the plebian peanuts as bar snacks, and get ready to nosh on a whole new spectrum of quirky and oh, so interesting bar eats being served up at the Mumbai’s hottest ‘wateringholes’

By Raul Dias

Gosht and Sandalwood Mulayam Seekh Kebab
Served up in a dish that’s fashioned on the lines of an old coal clothes’ iron, the quirkiness of these kebabs is further enhanced when you bite into them and discover their canny little secret. Sandalwood! Yes, the silken soft lamb seekh kebabs are flavoured with rose petals, sandalwood, ginger, green chilli and smoked with stone flower and accompanied by dry fruit bakarkhani with a spritz of fresh coriander jalapeno chutney
At Razzberry Rhinoceros, Juhu Hotel, Airport Area, Juhu
Call 7400402604/05
Cost Rs 625

Baked ‘Vegetarian’ Chicken Puff
Do pardon the rather oxymoronic name of this bar bite and just take a bite of this delectable Cantonese snack. It is prepared with a base of flour and oil along with a filling of deep fried mock chicken, sesame seeds, black pepper powder, vegetables, egg yolk, oyster sauce and chopped onions along with the seasoning of salt and spices.
At Yauatcha, Raheja Tower, BKC, Bandra East
Call 9222222800
Cost Rs 295

Dhokla Redefined
This one is made up of six pieces of sweet, authentic dhokla that have been seared with clarified butter, and served hot topped with guacamole and feta cheese. All this is then garnished with cilantro fronds.
At Radio Bar, Hotel New Castle, Linking Road, Bandra West
Call 26499900
Cost Rs 290

Amritsari Fish Popcorn
Bar Bar—the Kurla drinking bar, has garnered quite a reputation of going pop with its food. Here, the chefs have taken some classics and then added a fun twist to them. The Amritsari fish popcorn is one such example. A seafood lovers go-to snack, this bar bite has chunks of fish cooked in spicy Amritsari masala and served with a side of mint-mango chutney.
At Bar Bar, Lal Bahadur Shastri Marg, Kamani, Kurla West
Call 33126020
Cost Rs 269

Yucca Chips
Yucca aka. cassava aka. manioc is a root vegetable native to Latin America and is known for its versatility. Made from this tuber, the hand cut chips at Lima are served at the bar either fried or baked. The chips are then dusted with a chipotle chilli rub and accompanied with a freshly made sriracha chilli mayonnaise.
At Lima, Maker Maxity, North Avenue 2, BKC, Bandra East
Call 30005040
Cost Rs 225

Smashed Avocado and Smoked Jalapeno Falafel
Here, South America meets the Middle East with this take on a humble falafel that’s jazzed up with a smashed avocado pulp, smoked jalapeno peppers and pumpkin and served with a side of quinoa cracklings.
At Estella, Nichani Kutir, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu
Call 7999998232/7999998212
Cost Rs 450

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 29th May 2017 issue of the evening edition of Mid-Day newspaper, India http://www.mid-day.com/articles/mumbai-food-quirky-food-city-hottest-bars-falafel-yucca-chips-seekh-kebab/18289196)

Tender Lovin’

This torrid summer, it’s all about the cooling tender coconut that finds itself in a host of innovative preparations—from a pad thai to even a ceviche—at restaurants across the city.

By RAUL DIAS

Tender Coconut Pad Thai
This truly unique interpretation of the Thai street food staple—pad thai—sees tender coconut strips replacing the de rigueur flat rice noodles. And when combined with crushed peanuts, bean sprouts, tofu and tangy tamarind sauce, this iteration is truly a taste bud treat!
CREATOR SPEAK: “When we started building 212 All Good, we made ourselves a promise – everything that goes onto the plate has to be good for you. The Tender Coconut Pad Thai is something that ticks all the boxes with tender coconut being a great source of iron and brilliant for fighting heart diseases.”
-Chef Paul Kinny, culinary director
At 212 All Good, High Street Phoenix, Lower Parel
Call 62216020
Cost Rs 585

Tender Coconut & Fennel Ceviche
This ‘ceviche’ uses young coconut as its base ingredient. It’s safe to say that the entire dish is focused on this hero prepared simply by soaking thin slivers of tender coconut in orange juice, pineapple juice and chilly. It is then dressed with fresh coriander fronds, mint leaves, lemon, coconut water, chopped red chilies, edible flowers and shaved fennel.
CREATOR SPEAK: “Coconut is available everywhere, but not used to its full potential. Hence, I came up with the idea of making use of coconut in this dish to beat the heat.”
-Chef Rohan D’Souza, lead chef
At Radio Bar, Linking Road, Khar
Call 39967491, 9769755542, 9769355503
Cost Rs 385

Kale Coco Punch
Though the whole hype around kale may be on the wane this year, it still shows up in this rather refreshing and healthy seasonal cooler, paired with summer’s ultimate coolant—tender coconut! In this Hawaiian Tiki-style mocktail, tender coconut bits and water are blended with kale and fresh pineapple chunks, with a hint of turmeric for that added healthy boost, sans any sugar.
CREATOR SPEAK: “While our food menu has plenty of healthy options without compromising on taste, we wanted the beverage menu as well to represent the same philosophy—create drinks that are healthy and taste great too.”
-Surjeet Singh, bar captain
At The Clearing House, Ballard Estate, Fort
Call 62232266
Cost Rs 225

Tender Coconut Thai Curry Risotto
This ultimate fusion risotto makes its way to us via the geographic antipodes of Thailand and Italy! Here, aromatic green Thai curry and the short grain Italian Arborio rice are melded together with chunks of tender coconut that are added not just for texture and taste, but also to balance out the dish. It finds itself once more, but as a garnish, where roasted strips of tender coconut​ finish off the risotto.
CREATOR SPEAK: “It’s like mixing the fashion of Milan with the white sandy beaches of Thailand. T​his recipe first came together as a side dish, but we’ve now made it a standalone summer dish.”
-Ajay Thakur, brand chef
At Hitchki, Kalaghoda, Fort
Call 46129999
Cost Rs 320

Choconut Panna Cotta (see recipe below)
No, that isn’t a typo you think you spot in the name of this dessert! For, it is the yummy sum of its brownie tidbits, white chocolate, and tender coconut parts, all set overnight in a coconut shell, and infused with flavours of another summer staple—alphonso mango. It’s then served chilled along with mango coulis, coconut coral and edible flowers.CREATOR SPEAK: “I wanted to give the traditional panna cotta a twist of taste by using fresh ingredients over synthetic ones and serving it in a coconut shell with a tender coconut coral net as a garnish.”
-Chef Manoj Kumar Bhagat, pastry chef
At Jeon at Hotel Sea Princess, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu
Call 26469500
Cost Rs 499

Choconut Panna Cotta

Ingredients:
3 gelatine leaves
180ml fresh coconut milk
100ml milk
280ml double cream
1 vanilla pod, split lengthways, seeds scraped out
40g sugar
50g white chocolate
Pieces of cubed brownie
Tender coconut bits
Macaroon flakes
Mango chunks
Edible flowers
1tsp mango coulis or sauce
One half coconut shell

Method:
* For the panna cotta, soak the gelatine leaves in a little cold water until soft.
* Place the coconut milk, milk, cream, vanilla pod and seeds and sugar into a pan and bring to a simmer. Remove the vanilla pod and discard.
* Squeeze the water out of the gelatine leaves, then add to the pan and take off the heat. Stir until the gelatine has dissolved. Mix melted white chocolate.
* Divide the mixture among four ramekins and leave to cool. Place into the fridge for at least an hour, until set.
* For plating: Break a coconut into half, grate the coconut and line it with the panna cotta. Top it with cubed brownie chunks, macaroon flakes, mango chunks and edible flowers. Line the plate with mango coulis and place a few cubes of mango, brownie dices and edible flowers around the shell. Garnish the panna cotta with tender coconut bits.

Recipe courtesy Chef Manoj Kumar Bhagat, pastry chef, Jeon at Hotel Sea Princess

(A shorter, edited version of this article appeared in the 6th May 2017 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India http://www.mid-day.com/articles/tender-coconut-innovative-preparations-across-menus-in-mumbai-chefs/18226177)