Showing posts with label RISOTTO. Show all posts
Showing posts with label RISOTTO. Show all posts
Thursday, November 11, 2021
Restaurant Review: Ammata
Tuesday, July 9, 2019
Two Steps Ahead!
Giving us a whole other perspective to the oft-abused term ‘fusion food’, this two-month-old Tardeo restaurant steps up the game with some well-imagined Indo-Western fare.
By Raul Dias
“Confusion” is a word that almost always crops up when we’re contemplating the term ‘fusion food’. This, thanks to scores of restaurants—both in Mumbai and around the country—we’ve visited over the years that seem to lose the plot so criminally when it comes to the very tricky coupling of two different cuisines. A skill that is a lost art at most places, sadly. We’d almost begun to get a tad despondent and desperate to find an eatery that would help us get back on to that ‘fusion’ bandwagon.
A few days ago, we almost struck foodie Valhalla when we chanced upon One Step Up that sits perched on the busy Tardeo main road. Done up with bold accents—hints of which show up in the colourful crockery, comfortable teal-hued sofas and the ambient, bright green (faux) foliage—the three-levelled restaurant, with its large bay windows and swooping indoor staircase, is perfect for a leisurely lunch.
We started off with the cheesy goodness of the super innovative pav bhaji fondue (Rs 329) that came to our table just like a real fondue should—in a ceramic pot, sitting atop a small tea light lit burner, with a side of crunchy buttered croutons in lieu of the traditional laadi pav. The generously-filled quartet of Chettinad chicken quesadillas (Rs 329) had a piquant hit to them that was tempered down by the accompanying bowl of sour cream.
Redolent with the spicy taste of cinnamon and cloves along with the cooling trio of apple, cranberry and passion fruit juices, our fire n angel mocktail (Rs 260) was perfectly made. As was the peach ice tea (Rs 200) where the taste of the fruit shone through the refreshing libation that was very evidently made in-house and not bottled as we had imagined.
To shake things up a bit, for one of our mains, we opted for the grilled fish with lemon butter (Rs 349). This was one of the restaurant’s few non-fusion dishes on the menu. Although we found ourselves staring down at four generous filets of the ubiquitous, boring old basa, the way the fish was cooked elevated it. A flavourful garlic sauce, creamy mash and a medley of sautéed veggies made it a winner. Passing the risotto test with its creamy arborio rice, the almost neon green coloured saagwala chicken risotto (Rs 349) was delicate and vibrant at the same time, with the leafy saag flavour shining through.
At the behest of our very enthusiastic server, we gave the guava chili panacotta (Rs 249) a go for dessert. And we weren’t disappointed. With a wobbly jiggle and a fiery chili finish to it, the creamy, guava-rich Indo-Italian concoction ticked all the boxes, while showing us that there is some hope for the future of fusion food in Mumbai, after all!
AT: One Step Up, Shop no 1A/1B/1C, C wing, Dadarkar Compound, opp. Film Center, Tardeo.
TIME: 12 pm to 1.30 am
CALL: 9619083952
(An edited version of this review appeared in the 9th July 2019 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 20 https://www.mid-day.com/articles/two-steps-ahead/21310176)
By Raul Dias
“Confusion” is a word that almost always crops up when we’re contemplating the term ‘fusion food’. This, thanks to scores of restaurants—both in Mumbai and around the country—we’ve visited over the years that seem to lose the plot so criminally when it comes to the very tricky coupling of two different cuisines. A skill that is a lost art at most places, sadly. We’d almost begun to get a tad despondent and desperate to find an eatery that would help us get back on to that ‘fusion’ bandwagon.
A few days ago, we almost struck foodie Valhalla when we chanced upon One Step Up that sits perched on the busy Tardeo main road. Done up with bold accents—hints of which show up in the colourful crockery, comfortable teal-hued sofas and the ambient, bright green (faux) foliage—the three-levelled restaurant, with its large bay windows and swooping indoor staircase, is perfect for a leisurely lunch.
We started off with the cheesy goodness of the super innovative pav bhaji fondue (Rs 329) that came to our table just like a real fondue should—in a ceramic pot, sitting atop a small tea light lit burner, with a side of crunchy buttered croutons in lieu of the traditional laadi pav. The generously-filled quartet of Chettinad chicken quesadillas (Rs 329) had a piquant hit to them that was tempered down by the accompanying bowl of sour cream.
Redolent with the spicy taste of cinnamon and cloves along with the cooling trio of apple, cranberry and passion fruit juices, our fire n angel mocktail (Rs 260) was perfectly made. As was the peach ice tea (Rs 200) where the taste of the fruit shone through the refreshing libation that was very evidently made in-house and not bottled as we had imagined.
To shake things up a bit, for one of our mains, we opted for the grilled fish with lemon butter (Rs 349). This was one of the restaurant’s few non-fusion dishes on the menu. Although we found ourselves staring down at four generous filets of the ubiquitous, boring old basa, the way the fish was cooked elevated it. A flavourful garlic sauce, creamy mash and a medley of sautéed veggies made it a winner. Passing the risotto test with its creamy arborio rice, the almost neon green coloured saagwala chicken risotto (Rs 349) was delicate and vibrant at the same time, with the leafy saag flavour shining through.
At the behest of our very enthusiastic server, we gave the guava chili panacotta (Rs 249) a go for dessert. And we weren’t disappointed. With a wobbly jiggle and a fiery chili finish to it, the creamy, guava-rich Indo-Italian concoction ticked all the boxes, while showing us that there is some hope for the future of fusion food in Mumbai, after all!
AT: One Step Up, Shop no 1A/1B/1C, C wing, Dadarkar Compound, opp. Film Center, Tardeo.
TIME: 12 pm to 1.30 am
CALL: 9619083952
(An edited version of this review appeared in the 9th July 2019 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 20 https://www.mid-day.com/articles/two-steps-ahead/21310176)
Friday, June 9, 2017
Risotto—Desi Ishtyle!
From a chicken cafreal-laced iteration to one that
eschews the more the de rigueur arborio rice in favour of gobindobhog rice—the
risotto is being re-imagined by Mumbai restaurants and how…
By
Raul Dias
Venice
to Lucknow
This culinary hybrid is made by infusing the spirit of Lucknow and Venice by marrying ingredients and flavours from the two food capitals of the world. The rice used is basmati and arborio in equal quantities and is delicately flavoured with Awadhi spices like mace, dried rose petals and green cardamom, and then scented and soaked with Merlot. A quartet of juicy galouti kebabs are topped over the risotto with farm fresh veggies and parmesan cheese, with desi ghee to finish it off. The dish is accompanied by a glass of Italian red wine and a spicy flat bread.
At Jeon, Hotel Sea Princess, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu
Call 26469500
Cost Rs 1,099
This culinary hybrid is made by infusing the spirit of Lucknow and Venice by marrying ingredients and flavours from the two food capitals of the world. The rice used is basmati and arborio in equal quantities and is delicately flavoured with Awadhi spices like mace, dried rose petals and green cardamom, and then scented and soaked with Merlot. A quartet of juicy galouti kebabs are topped over the risotto with farm fresh veggies and parmesan cheese, with desi ghee to finish it off. The dish is accompanied by a glass of Italian red wine and a spicy flat bread.
At Jeon, Hotel Sea Princess, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu
Call 26469500
Cost Rs 1,099
Sambhar
Risotto
While one might argue that this one seems like a jazzed-up version of a humble sambhar rice, let us assure you that this risotto is anything but! Firstly, good quality, perfectly al dente arborio rice is used as its base, to which a tangy, thick sambhar sauce is introduced. Secondly, continuing the desi motif, curry leaves and fried methi (fenugreek) fronds are sprinkled all over the dish, further accentuating its Indian leanings.
At Canto Cafe and Bar, 534, BCMA, SVP Road, Opera House
Call 49711813
Cost Rs 360
While one might argue that this one seems like a jazzed-up version of a humble sambhar rice, let us assure you that this risotto is anything but! Firstly, good quality, perfectly al dente arborio rice is used as its base, to which a tangy, thick sambhar sauce is introduced. Secondly, continuing the desi motif, curry leaves and fried methi (fenugreek) fronds are sprinkled all over the dish, further accentuating its Indian leanings.
At Canto Cafe and Bar, 534, BCMA, SVP Road, Opera House
Call 49711813
Cost Rs 360
Chicken
Cafreal Risotto
A riff on the tangy Goan cafreal, this colonial-desi-inspired risotto is served with a grilled chicken breast. Adapted from a Portuguese-Mozambican slave recipe, cafreal is a marinade made from fresh coriander leaves, mint, spices and toddy vinegar. The flavour of the toddy vinegar is what elevates the entire risotto, which is then garnished with parmesan shavings and a sprinkling of pine nuts.
At Radio Bar, Hotel New Castle, Linking Road, Bandra West
Call 9769755542, 9769355503
Cost Rs 450
A riff on the tangy Goan cafreal, this colonial-desi-inspired risotto is served with a grilled chicken breast. Adapted from a Portuguese-Mozambican slave recipe, cafreal is a marinade made from fresh coriander leaves, mint, spices and toddy vinegar. The flavour of the toddy vinegar is what elevates the entire risotto, which is then garnished with parmesan shavings and a sprinkling of pine nuts.
At Radio Bar, Hotel New Castle, Linking Road, Bandra West
Call 9769755542, 9769355503
Cost Rs 450
Dal
Makhani Risotto
The perfect amalgamation of Indian flavours and Italian techniques in one dish. The richness of dal makhani, cream and risotto rice with a goat’s cheese garnish is not just filling, but comforting too. One bite of this risotto is enough to bring back to you your Dadi’s homemade food memories, reminding you that a little nostalgia is always great.
At The Terrace, Hotel King’s International Compound, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu
Call 9665295999
Cost Rs 445
The perfect amalgamation of Indian flavours and Italian techniques in one dish. The richness of dal makhani, cream and risotto rice with a goat’s cheese garnish is not just filling, but comforting too. One bite of this risotto is enough to bring back to you your Dadi’s homemade food memories, reminding you that a little nostalgia is always great.
At The Terrace, Hotel King’s International Compound, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu
Call 9665295999
Cost Rs 445
Mushroom
and Asparagus Risotto with Gobindobhog Rice
In this signature dish of the brand-new eatery, they use the famous short grain, aromatic rice called gobindobhog from Bengal in lieu of the traditionally used arborio rice. This is because the former has the right amount of starch to give the risotto its creamy texture. The addition of the sweet potato leaves and the very desi mustard oil is in keeping with T&T’s philosophy of embracing the best of regional produce and locally-sourced ingredients in a dish, yet serving it with a fresh take.
At Toast & Tonic, Ground Floor, Jet Airways-Godrej Building, BKC, Bandra East
Call 26534722/7777049774
Cost Rs 460
In this signature dish of the brand-new eatery, they use the famous short grain, aromatic rice called gobindobhog from Bengal in lieu of the traditionally used arborio rice. This is because the former has the right amount of starch to give the risotto its creamy texture. The addition of the sweet potato leaves and the very desi mustard oil is in keeping with T&T’s philosophy of embracing the best of regional produce and locally-sourced ingredients in a dish, yet serving it with a fresh take.
At Toast & Tonic, Ground Floor, Jet Airways-Godrej Building, BKC, Bandra East
Call 26534722/7777049774
Cost Rs 460
(An edited version of this article appeared in the 9th June 2017 issue of the of Mid-Day newspaper, http://www.mid-day.com/articles/italian-risotto-desi-mumbai-restaurants-food-news/18322196)
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