Friday, June 9, 2017

Risotto—Desi Ishtyle!

From a chicken cafreal-laced iteration to one that eschews the more the de rigueur arborio rice in favour of gobindobhog rice—the risotto is being re-imagined by Mumbai restaurants and how…

By Raul Dias



Venice to Lucknow
This culinary hybrid is made by infusing the spirit of Lucknow and Venice by marrying ingredients and flavours from the two food capitals of the world. The rice used is basmati and arborio in equal quantities and is delicately flavoured with Awadhi spices like mace, dried rose petals and green cardamom, and then scented and soaked with Merlot. A quartet of juicy galouti kebabs are topped over the risotto with farm fresh veggies and parmesan cheese, with desi ghee to finish it off. The dish is accompanied by a glass of Italian red wine and a spicy flat bread.
At Jeon, Hotel Sea Princess, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu
Call 26469500
Cost Rs 1,099



Sambhar Risotto
While one might argue that this one seems like a jazzed-up version of a humble sambhar rice, let us assure you that this risotto is anything but! Firstly, good quality, perfectly al dente arborio rice is used as its base, to which a tangy, thick sambhar sauce is introduced. Secondly, continuing the desi motif, curry leaves and fried methi (fenugreek) fronds are sprinkled all over the dish, further accentuating its Indian leanings.
At Canto Cafe and Bar, 534, BCMA, SVP Road, Opera House
Call
49711813
Cost Rs
360



Chicken Cafreal Risotto
A riff on the tangy Goan cafreal, this colonial-desi-inspired risotto is served with a grilled chicken breast. Adapted from a Portuguese-Mozambican slave recipe, cafreal is a marinade made from fresh coriander leaves, mint, spices and toddy vinegar. The flavour of the toddy vinegar is what elevates the entire risotto, which is then garnished with parmesan shavings and a sprinkling of pine nuts.
At Radio Bar, Hotel New Castle, Linking Road, Bandra West
Call 9769755542, 9769355503
Cost Rs 450



Dal Makhani Risotto
The perfect amalgamation of Indian flavours and Italian techniques in one dish. The richness of dal makhani, cream and risotto rice with a goat’s cheese garnish is not just filling, but comforting too. One bite of this risotto is enough to bring back to you your Dadi’s homemade food memories, reminding you that a little nostalgia is always great.
At The Terrace, Hotel King’s International Compound, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu
Call 9665295999
Cost Rs
445




Mushroom and Asparagus Risotto with Gobindobhog Rice
In this signature dish of the brand-new eatery, they use the famous short grain, aromatic rice called gobindobhog from Bengal in lieu of the traditionally used arborio rice. This is because the former has the right amount of starch to give the risotto its creamy texture. The addition of the sweet potato leaves and the very desi mustard oil is in keeping with T&T’s philosophy of embracing the best of regional produce and locally-sourced ingredients in a dish, yet serving it with a fresh take.
At Toast & Tonic, Ground Floor, Jet Airways-Godrej Building, ​​BKC, Bandra East
Call
26534722/7777049774
Cost Rs
460

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 9th June 2017 issue of the of Mid-Day newspaper, http://www.mid-day.com/articles/italian-risotto-desi-mumbai-restaurants-food-news/18322196)

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