Something's Fishy...

Imparting a distinctly umami flavour, fermented fish as a seasoning agent can be found in sauces, pastes and powders, right from the Far East to the Middle East--with even the West having its fair share of iterpretations, some dating back to ancient Greek and Roman times.

By Raul Dias

Bereft of the brassy boldness of Barcelona and the hedonistic lure of Ibiza, Tarifa is a mere blip on Spain's tourist radar. But for the adventure sports traveller, this tiny town in the Adalucian province of Cádiz on the southernmost coast of mainland Spain is nothing short of an adrenaline-saturated Valhalla. But besides being one of the world's most popular wind sporting destinations, Tarifa zealously guards a secret close to its heart...
Garum. All along the sea shore west of Tarifa, among the ruins of the ancient Roman settlement of Baelo Claudia, one can find what used to be several factories for the preparation of garum or fish sauce, which was once the main industry of the town. Long before fermentation became the buzz word in cookery that it is today, the Romans, Greeks and Byzantines had perfected the art of manufacturing garum, a much-prized condiment used in dishes like lamb stew for example, as noted down in the ancient Roman cookbook Apicius compiled in the late 4th Century AD.
The Romans made garum by adding copious amounts of salt to tiny fish like mullets and fish intestines. All this, left in earthen jars to ferment and liquify for a few weeks. In fact, a few such garum jars were even discovered amidst the ruins of Pompeii! Once the mild-flavoured, natural amino acid monosodium glutamate (MSG)-rich liquid was siphoned out, the rest of the concentrated garum evaporated down to a thick paste that was called muria--an inferior product sold off cheap to the poor to add heft and flavour to their bland gruel.
In Cetara, the small fishing village in Italy's southern region of Campania, garum's modern-day interpretation colatura di alici is made much in the same way. This amber-hued seasonal sauce is made from anchovies fished off the Amalfi Coast between March 25 which is the Feast of Annunciation and July 22 that sees the Feast of Mary Magdalene. Doused over pasta and even over a pizza Napoletana, it is also not uncommon to see the local Cetaranians drizzle a few drops of the super-fishy colatura over their gelato!
Mahyaveh (or mehiawah depending on the region) is what the people of the Middle East call their version of fish sauce that has a distinctly spicy hit to it. In the southern part of Iran, especially in Larestan and Hormozgan, once fermented, the liquid of the sardines-anchovie-salt slurry is mixed with mustard and other spices, like cumin, coriander, fennel seeds, black pepper and thyme. In the Persian Gulf archipelago nation of Bahrain mehiawah forms an intergral part of the daily breakfast routine wherein breads like khubooz and the triangular donut-like zinjubari are dipped into a mixture of the fish sauce along with herbs like za'atar and sumac before eating.
The prowess of nam pla or Thai fish sauce as a flavouring agent is a well-documented one, as are its other South East Asian counterparts that show us the condiment's multi-faceted nature. Sauces similar to nam pla are nuoc mam (flavoured with red chillies and lime juice) in Vietnam, nam pha in Laos, hom ha in China, saeu chot in Korea and shitsuru in Japan.
Speaking of Japan, katsuobushi which is dried, fermented, and smoked skipjack tuna finds itself at the very epicenter of one of the country's most revered 'master stocks'--dashi. The umami-rich fulcrum of any soup, main dish and dipping sauce, dashi is made by steeping kombu (edible kelp) and kezurikatsuo (shavings of katsuobushi) in boiling water and extracting the decoction by passing it through a fine cheesecloth.
Though not in the same league as fish sauce, but fiendishly popular nonetheless, the Cantonese oyster sauce is more on the sweeter side with a thicker, viscous body to it. This highly-processed sauce is made from the extract of oysters and mixed with sugar, corn starch, caramel, colouring agents and even industrial MSG, in some cases.
And though they have their own version of a fish sauce called patis, the Filipinos place their beloved bagoong alamang above all else. More like a pickle, this fermented paste is made with shrimp or krill that are mixed with salt and the bright red yeast rice called angkak that hastens the fertmentation process, besides lending to it a lurid magenta pink colour. Almost every dish in the Philippines from the peanut-redolent kare-kare ox tail stew to the vegetable dish pinakbet has a splodge of bagoong added to it for both flavour and texture.
What bagoong alamang is to the Philippines, the crumbly, powdery belachan is to Malaysia. This supremely pungent, funky smelling condiment is made from tiny shrimp mixed with salt and then fermented. The paste is then ground into a smoother paste, then sun dried, shaped into blocks, and allowed to ferment again. Once ready to be intruducted to a host of preparations like curries and laksas, a piece of the belachan brick is chiseled off, wrapped in a piece of aluminium foil and roasted over a pan till crumbly to the touch. Exactly similar to the belachan in both preparation and use is the Indonesian trassie that can also be made from a species of small fish called ikan, besides oedang or shrimp.   
Known by its moniker of 'Cambodian Cheese', prahok is in a league of its own as it is also a fish substitute, while being a flavouring agent at the same time. This greyish tinted fresh paste is made from crushed, salted and fermented mud fish and stands in for fresh fish when the supply of the latter ebbs during the rainy season. One of Cambodia's most popluar dishes prahok ang sees prahok mixed with minced pork, spices and herbs like lemongrass, wrapped in banana leaves and steamed into a meat cake of sorts.

What the Fish!?
Interestingly, two table-side condiments that are intrinsic parts of our diet today, have, or at least have had at some point of time, fish as one of their ingredients:

* Ketchup
Adapted from the recipe of the ancient 17th Century koechiap sauce that originated in the Hokkien region of southeastern China, and that was made from a mix of pickled fish, mushrooms, soy sauce and spices. It was only in the 20th Century that ketchup as we know it today began to have pureed tomatoes added to it, omitting the pickled fish.

* Worcestershire sauce
Created in the 1830s by John Wheeley Lea and William Henry Perrins, chemists from Worcestershire, England, the original version of the sauce (that's still sold under the brand 'The Original & Genuine Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce') was made from molasses, sugar, tamarind extract and anchovies among other ingredients.

(A shorter, differently edited version of this article appeared in the 24th February 2018 issue of the Mint Lounge newspaper, India on page 8 http://www.livemint.com/Home-Page/vviXPCrU0r99PZsovXqY4M/Somethings-fishy.html)

Vegxotica!

From bitter melon to taro and from purple sweet potato to fox nuts, a host of exotic vegetarian ingredients hope to change the oriental restaurant menu’s lexicon across the city in 2018

By Raul Dias

Hanoi Bitter Melon Shrimp Salad
As its name suggest, this Vietnamese-style salad on the menu at Shizusan is a melange of herbs, shrimps, carrot shavings, citrus nam plah, roasted peanuts and that one ingredient—bitter melon—that has an interesting back story. In Vietnamese homes, bitter melon is usually cooked at the start of their new year as a reminder of the bitter living conditions of the past. “This salad of ours is an ode to these festivities. Bitter melon is one of those underappreciated vegetables that take some time getting used to. Although the bitterness at times can get unbearable, it’s also unique while having medicinal benefits which can’t be overlooked,” says Chef Paul Kinny, culinary director, Bellona Hospitality.
At Shizusan, North Skyzone, High Street Phoenix, Lower Parel.
Call 7045004138
Cost Rs 365

Taro Tempura and Purple Potato Maki
This all-veg ura maki (inside-out maki roll) at Yuuka has a taro stuffing and is topped with a truffle-purple sweet potato mash, fried sweet potato and Thai red chilly. “There is a saying that learning and creating something new always makes you feel good. The same hold for the key ingredient of this dish—Taro! The tuber is believed to be one of the world’s earliest cultivated plants and has a tremendous health benefits associate with it,” believes Chef Himanshu Taneja, director of culinary, The St. Regis Mumbai.
At Yuuka at The St. Regis Mumbai, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel.
Call 8291926985/61628422
Cost Rs 1,600

Asparagus and Arugula Salad with Fox Nut
Served warm, this asparagus and arugula salad at Hello Guppy sees the very exotic fox nut sprinkled over it along with grilled asparagus, all jazzed up with a wafu dressing. The addition of the fox nut is in keeping with the Japanese concept of yakuzen, or medicinal cooking. “Fox nuts are great examples of this medicinal aspect, as they act as an aphrodisiac, along with being low in cholesterol, fat and sodium. They are also gluten-free and add the perfect crunch to this salad,” says head chef, Vikram Khatri.
At Hello Guppy, Ground Floor, Godrej-BKC, G-Block, BKC.
Call 26534720/7777049773
Cost Rs 249

Chilean Sea Bass with Blue Pea Pod Rice
This sea bass dish, at the new Thai-Robata restaurant Izaya, that heroes its brilliantly blue rice component, is a hearty serving of chunks of Chilean sea bass on a bed of jasmine rice coloured blue with the blue pea pod. This pod, that’s native to Thailand, has the unique characteristic of changing colour when any form of acid is added to it. “The reasons we use the blue pea is the appeal it brings to the dish, whilst keeping the flavour neutral. It is also one of those rare natural ingredients that imparts a blue tint. The inspiration for this exotic ingredient came from our trip to Thailand where the pod is used in colouring drinks such as iced teas and sodas,” says chef and owner, Farrokh Khambata.
At Izaya, NCPA, Gate No. 2, Nariman Point.
Call 22821212
Cost Rs 2,500

Crispy Taro Veg Spring Roll
Part of a dim sum trio that includes a black truffle dumpling and a veg dumpling, this spring roll at Dashanzi is prepared with gently rolled out wheat flour wrappers that are filled in with a blend of crunchy shredded vegetables along with steamed and mashed taro root, then sautéed in soy sauce. “Taro, a tropical vegetable which is high in fibre, is known to soak up flavours. Thus, it easily marinates, absorbing the peppery-tangy flavour of the pickled filling. The root ingredient plays an important role in delicacies that are traditionally eaten during the Chinese New Year celebrations,” says Cheang Chee Leong, chef de cuisine.
At Dashanzi, JW Marriott Mumbai Juhu, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu.
Call 66933344
Cost Rs 995

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 19th February 2018 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 23 https://www.mid-day.com/articles/mumbai-food-exotic-asian-veggies-now-making-way-to-restaurant-menus/19087160)

Notes from Tallinn

By Raul Dias

Quick question. What’s the common denominator between Coca Cola, the tonic water part of a gin-n-tonic and marzipan? Believe it or not, as it so happens, all three of them were invented in a pharmacy as medicines! I pick up this nugget of trivia as I bite the head off a dinosaur. And no, I’m not relating the contents of a substance-induced ‘trip’. My trip is of the real kind. A trip that I recently took into the wonders of the Baltic country of Estonia and more specifically, to its charming portside capital, Tallinn.

Sweet Somethings
I’m at Maiasmokk Café on Pikk Street, the Tallinn version of Willy Wonka’s candy wonderland and I’ve just been handed a luridly green coloured three-inch tall tyrannosaurus rex made from the store’s—and the city’s—number one calling card, marzipan. Hand painted by Külli Mihkla who is just one of the six remaining marzipan painters in all of Estonia, my first bite is everything Estonian marzipan is made out to be. The perfect sum of its almond paste, liquid glucose and powdered sugar parts to which a drop or two of bitter almond extract is blended in.
But this iteration’s not overtly sweet as compared to the Italian marzapane, or even to the one my confectioner mother makes back home in India, which sees the substitution of almond with the more regional cashew paste. But there’s a reason (which I’ll get to in a little while) for the lack of cloying sweetness to Estonian martsipan, I’m told.
This time I find myself at Tallinn’s Kalev Marzipan Museum Room which serves as both a store and a museum and is regarded as Estonia’s de facto Ground Zero for all things marzipan. Besides its trio of marzipan painters who sit behind a glass partition, painting everything from snowmen to kittens with vegetable dyes, the museum even has its own marzipan researcher in the form of Otto Kubo, who has worked at Kalev for 60 years. And it’s the genial, pink-cheeked Otto who’s giving me a crash course in all things martsipan—Estonian style!

Putting the ‘Mart’ in ‘sipan’
Quick to dispel any errant talk of marzipan being a German invention, as conjecture would have us believe, Otto tells me that both Tallinn and Germany’s marzipan capital Lübeck were both, at one point in time, Hanseatic towns. Towns, that were part of the same commercial and defensive confederation of merchant guilds that came to dominate Baltic maritime trade for three centuries along the coast of Northern Europe from 1100AD to it decline in the 1450s.
He hands me a dog-eared copy of the book Mardileib (Mart’s Bread) by Jaan Kross, which he summarises for me, revealing hitherto unknown facets to the confection I so love.
It all started in the 15th century when a certain Rathmann Kalle, a member of Tallinn’s city council took ill with a stomach ache and approached an apprentice pharmacist named Mart at the Tallinn Town Hall Pharmacy to come up with a curative potion. Now, as Kalle was a high-ranking official, Mart had to first taste the medicine himself, before administering it to his patient, just to prove that it wasn’t poison in disguise. So, to make it more palatable, he made sure to add a little sugar to the almond paste and bitter almond extract to mask the medicinal taste of the concoction.
To cut a long story short, Kalle liked the medicine prepared by the apprentice pharmacist very much and it was truly able to cure his stomach! It was Kalle, who then called the medicine “Mart’s Bread” or martsipan.
And the rest as they say is (edible) history, which is alive and kicking in Tallinn to this very day!


(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 18th February 2018 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 7 http://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/travel/notes-from-tallinn/article22783570.ece)

Caribbean Calling!

The twin island nation of Trinidad and Tobago has plenty of ways to immerse oneself into the infectious Caribbean vibe. Raul Dias recently discovered a few…  

In 2015, Bollywood’s Badshah Shah Rukh Khan put the spotlight on the twin island nation of Trinidad and Tobago (T&T) by buying out the T&T Red Steel franchise—that he’s now renamed the Trinbago Knight Riders—in the five-seasons-old Caribbean Premier League (CPL). But there’s a whole lot more than cricket on offer in this stunning Caribbean country. Here are a few ways to get the most out of T&T after you’ve had enough of your share of bouncers, yorkers, googlies and those all-important sixers. And yes, we Indian’s don’t even need a visa to go tripping T&T style! Here’s a list of our very own sixers…

1. Get your fill of Port of Spain
Though it may be diminutive in size, T&T’s capital Port of Spain on the main island of Trinidad is full of interesting places to visit. So, once you’ve had enough of the CPL action at the Queens Park Oval Stadium, take a short walk down to the National Museum of Trinidad and Tobago on Frederick Street where you can marvel at a large collection of works by local artists. The museum also has a number of exhibits on the cultural history of the islands that will give you a great insight into T&T’s colonial past. Speaking of which, as the last surviving fort form the period of the Spanish occupation of Trinidad, Fort San Andres in the middle of the city should not be missed, as should the lush Royal Botanic Gardens that is home to 700 exotic species of trees, 13 per cent of which are indigenous to this part of the world.

2. ‘Sea’ the beauty!
While Big Brother aka. Trinidad might hold sway as the more ‘happening’ of the two, it is little Tobago, all of 300 sq km, that advertises its title of WATERWORLD in big bold letters, thanks to the plethora of water sport action on offer for the intrepid traveller. From the stand-up paddle boarding, canoeing and windsurfing at Pigeon Point Beach to some breathtaking diving and snorkeling at Buccoo Reef there is no dearth of water sports and activities to indulge in. But save all your awestruck wonder for the Nylon Pool that is a sand bank in the middle of the ocean that is so shallow that the water reaches only up to one’s waist, making wading through its crystal clear, warm waters an unusual treat with the deeper (and darker hued) waters surrounding it in an emerald ring.

3. Enjoy a mélange on your plate
Thanks to its ‘creole’ or mixed culture — right from the African and Amerindian to the Chinese, Caucasian and even Indian origin people — the cuisine of T&T is as diverse as it is divine! From the rather odd-sounding ‘blue food’ made up of tubers like dasheen which is a sort of cassava to a leafy vegetable stew called callaloo and India-inspired ‘doubles’ and rotis stuffed with goat or chicken curry, to crabs and dumplings (a Tobagonian specialty) there is a lot on offer here. A must-not-miss local Tinidadian favourite is ‘bake and shark’ best had at Richard’s Shack at Maracas Bay. Basically composed of a piece of fried shark filet wedged between fried roti dough bread, called ‘bake’, no bake and shark sandwich is complete without dousing it with a virtual cornucopia of condiments featuring among others, the unique shado beni chutney that is made from a leafy Trinidadian herb called shado beni that is a bit like coriander.

4. ‘Lime out’ at a pan yard 
As T&T’s national musical instrument, the steelpan is made from oil drums hammered on one end and divided into grooves and notes. The steelpan also bears the distinction of being the only acoustic musical instrument to be invented in the twentieth century. But what it also does for the local community is that it gives them a chance to hang out and have some unbridled music-enhanced fun. Simply called ‘limein’ in the local parlance, the Trinbagonians (as the denizens of the island nation refer to themselves as) take hanging out very seriously. And the best place for a bit of ‘lime out’ action is an evening spent lost in the music of a pan yard. What this place basically is, is a sort of community centre where steelpan bands practice almost every day, honing their skills for steelpan competitions which are taken very, very seriously in T&T, almost as much as cricket is.

5. Go swamp boating
The Scarlet Ibis is one of the most vividly coloured birds (hence its name!) you will ever have the pleasure of seeing. And as a protective haven for this, the nation’s national bird, the Caroni Swamp Sanctuary, a little out of Port of Spain, is a great place to become one with nature. A boat tour down the meandering swamp shows you glimpses not just into the habitat of the Scarlet Ibis but also into those of others like snakes, spiders and other swamp critters. Under the patronage and stewardship of Winston Nanan who was driven by his love dedication and commitment to this sensitive eco-system, the Caroni Swamp has become an ornithological wonderland with hourly tours departing from the sanctuary’s pier through the day, right up till 4pm.

6. ‘Bean’ there, done that?
A short distance away from Tobago’s fabulous three-tiered Argyle waterfall — that you can trek up to — is a place that is a sort of open air, lush version of Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory. The Tobago Cocoa Estate is where you can learn all about how the world’s favourite indulgence — chocolate — gets its start from bean to bar. Here, on his daily tours, Duane Dove who set the estate up in 2005, not only shows you how cocoa beans are grown, but also how they are harvested and processed into some of the finest, organic chocolate you can ever have the pleasure of tasting. And one can even pick up some goodies at the attached shop that does very little to quell your chocolate addiction with its sinful range of goodies on offer.

How to get there?
Although there are no direct flights from India to T&T, one can easily fly in to Port of Spain via New York or London on airlines like Jet Blue and Caribbean Airlines. Travel from Trinidad to Tobago is easy with several air taxi services operating short, hourly 25-minute flights linking the two islands.

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the February 2018 issue of Just Urbane magazine)

Call of the Wild!

A short winter weekend break at the Pench Tiger Reserve’s Kohka Wilderness Camp amid some spectacular wildlife proves to be a great orientation to Central India for Raul Dias

Pics courtesy: Kohka Wilderness Camp and Wikicommons 

I couldn’t but help chuckle at the irony of the situation, but while Delhi was making headlines the world over for its bad smog condition at the onset of winter, I was driving though some pure, rich, thick fog in the very heart of India. Yes, most early mornings at the Pench Tiger Reserve that straddles both states of Madhya Pradesh (MP) and Maharashtra are just that like—fog saturated and utterly beautiful. The National Park itself is an ecosystem unto itself with a plethora of stunning flora and fauna that make a short winter wildlife trip in its environs so very rewarding.

Great Expectations!
My very first trip to MP—and central India for that matter—was something I was looking forward too ever since I decided to do a short weekend trip to take in the wild charms of Pench. Albeit a little less famous and popular than the other star attractions of the MP tiger circuit that includes Kanha and Bandhavgarh, Pench always held some great sway in the mind of an adventure lover like myself. For it was here, that the great Rudyard Kipling set his epic The Jungle Book in. Yes, Mowgli, Baghera, Balloo and the dreaded Sher Khan were all denizens of this enchanted forest. Well, at least in Kipling’s ever-fertile imagination! But here’s a bit of information that might surprise you: Kipling never actually ever visited Pench in his lifetime…
The Pench Sanctuary itself was created in September 1977, with an initial area of 449.39 sq km. Renamed as the Indira Priyadarshini Pench National Park, the Pench National Park was created in 1983, carved out of the Sanctuary. And while the number one attraction at the park has got to be the tiger, other fauna like the jackal, wild dog, sambhar deer, spotted deer and nilgais are aplenty. And of course, how can I leave out those pesky-yet-cute rhesus and langur monkeys that will keep you entertained with their comical antics!
The park opens twice daily to visitors: In summer (April-June) from 6.30am - 10.30 am and 3.30pm - 6.30pm and in winter (October-March) from 7am - 11am and 3pm - 6pm. Local guides accompany game drives and are provided upon at the park entrance. Having said that, Jeeps are free to follow their own route along tracks, using pugmarks and alarm calls as indicators of a nearby predator.

Humble Luxury
Nestled in the heart of the fecund tiger reserve in the MP part of the national park is the modest, but perfectly appointed Kohka Wilderness Camp that I chose to stay at for my two nights. Located in the heart of the village Kohka a mere five minutes’ walk away from the Kohka Lake on the periphery of the forest boundary, the resort lets you experience nature at its very best. Here, you can safari in the wee hours of sunrise or in the late afternoon, go for nature walk or simply picnic by the lake. They also offer a guided tour of the typical Indian pottery village, fishing, bird watching and other indoor activities that will ensure that you’ll fall in love with the jungle, the surroundings and the small, but beautiful Camp Kohka.
The camp itself is a collection of local dwelling styled cottages (with all the mod cons including aircon and private bathrooms), surrounded by a main reception, dining room and leisure activity building. The outdoor pool, gazebo area and lawns are perfect for lounging about in post safari.

Tiger, Tiger Burning Bright…
Speaking of safari, my very first one began at the ghastly hour of 5.30am when my driver, Amit turned up bang on time at the camp gates ready to whisk me off towards the Turia Gate. It was there a half hour later, when after completing our entry permit paper work that we picked up our mandatory guide Suresh. As one of the first vehicles to enter the park at the Turia Gate that morning, we set off into the dark that was slowly beginning to get dusky with flecks of orange sunlight beginning to appear every now and then as the sun made its debut.
One of the first sights that greeted my sleepy eyes was that of a family of spotted deer gracefully crossing our path with the leader of the pack looking majestic with his antlers glistening in the rays of the early morning sun. A group of raucous long tailed langurs with their incessant chattering brought me out of my reverie as they darted from a flame of the forest tree to a black myrobalan tree with the dexterity and grace of a gymnast. While the French couple in the next Jeep were most impressed with seeing their national bird, the rather plain and boring rooster, it was my time to whoop with joy on seeing our very own national bird the majestic peacock a little while later as we coursed our way thought the thick foliage over the rough terracotta-hued mud path of the jungle.
‘Wagh!’ I suddenly heard the word I was waiting to hear come though over Suresh’s radio transmitter. His colleague had apparently spotted a tiger on the banks of the watering hole that was close to where we were. So off we went in hot pursuit of the King of the Jungle. Once at the spot, we parked a good 200 meters away and took in the spectacle that was unfolding before us. Only our ‘King’ turned out to be a ‘Queen’. Yes, Collarwaali as the 10-year-old Tigress is known as—thanks to her lost radio collar—was preening in all her glory, least affected by our tiresome intrusion into her domain. Not wanting to cramp her space any further, once we were done with our enthusiastic shooting (relax… with movie and still cameras only!) we drove off with a cloud of swirling mud surrounding us.
Our next sighting was something I was waiting to see ever since I had heard of them. Being an avid dog lover, even the wild kind like the dholes or the Indian wild dog fascinates me no end. These dogs that have a reddish-brown coat and bushy tails are said to be related to jackals and their bark is a low whistling sound sans any howls or growling. Although I wanted to get out of the vehicle and get up close with them, better sense (along with Amit’s horrified shrieks) prevailed and I decided to end my safari with all my digits and appendages intact, as we made our way back to the gates and to the camp beyond utterly satiated and enormously thankful to the bounty nature had bestowed on us that day.

FACT FILE

Getting There
From Mumbai, Nagpur is the closest airport and railhead to reach the main Turia Gate of the Pench Tiger Reserve. The Kohka Wilderness Camp will make arrangements for an airport/train station pick up and drop and as well as for daily safari excursions at an extra cost.

When To Visit
Right from November to June, when the wildlife sighting is at its best and when the fauna is thick and verdant is the time when you should plan your visit to this paradisiacal part of Central India. But if seeing a tiger is your ultimate goal, then the best period for sightings is between Feb and April.

Contact:
Kohka Wilderness Camp
Pench Tiger Reserve
Post Turia, Kohka,
Madhya Pradesh 480881
Tel: +91-9827271101, 9820282307
Email: info@kohkawilderness.com

(A shorter, edited version of this article appeared in the 16th January 2018 issue of the Afternoon Despatch & Courier newspaper, India on page 20 http://www.afternoondc.in/48-hrs/call-of-the-wild/article_216229)

Tequila Time Before it’s Time Up

According to a recent report by Reuters, due to dwindling agave crops, the world needs to prepare itself to deal with an imminent tequila shortage. We bring you seven tequila-based cocktails that will help you tank up on your favourite tipple…before the magic from Mexico runs dry!

By Raul Dias

Jalapeño Surprise
This one’s like a drinkable fiesta for all your senses, combining two Mexican favourites in one mean drink. This ultra-potent cocktail developed by Manish Thakur, the sous chef at Scribble Stories, is prepared by mixing tequila with fresh jalapeño, egg white, Tabasco and orange juice. All this is served in a tilted glass, with two jaunty slivers of jalapeño as garnish.
At Scribble Stories, 21B, Santhal ONGC Complex, Opposite Lilavati Hospital, Reclamation, Bandra West
Call 26400754
Cost Rs 550

Berried Treasure
​Deception in a shot glass! That’s what we call this innocent-looking, shot-style tequila cocktail. Look past it’s creamy countenance and you’ll see what we’re talking about. Conceptualised by Estella’s bar manager, Rakesh Pardeshi, this creamy shot is a gorgeous blend of tequila and muddled strawberries, layered with Baileys Irish Cream liqueur and topped with a swirl of fresh cream.
At Estella, Nichani Kutir, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu
Call 7999998232
Cost Rs 499

Jalapeño Honey
Here, house-made jalapeño-infused El Jimador Blanco tequila is shaken with honey syrup and lemon juice by John Leese, Olive’s beverage and bar development manager and served in a rocks glass. A jalapeño tail garnish finishes off this cocktail that has a definite bite to it. You’ve been warned!
At Olive Bar & Kitchen, 14 Union Park, Khar West
Call 43408229
Cost Rs 800

Mexican Firing Squad
Look past its shocking pink hue and take a long sip of this tequila cocktail to realise that it means business. A potent sum of its Camino tequila, grenadine, lime and bitters parts, the cocktail is developed by One Street Over’s bar manager Ashitosh Narayanan, who sends it off garnished with a slice of lime, shaken with ice and served in a dainty coupe glass.
At One Street Over, Ground Floor, 35th Street, Off Linking Road, Khar West
Call 26002224
Cost Rs 500

Kala Khatta Margarita
Reflective of the Indian dining and bartending scene’s favourite go-to word “fusion”, this Mexico-meets-India tequila cocktail is a tart treat. Made from just three ingredients—tequila, kala khatta and chaat masala by Tanaji Shirke, the senior bartender at Copper Chimney Worli, we love this jugaad of a cocktail, served all frozen up slushie-style!
At Copper Chimney Worli, Door No.12-A, Lotus Court, Dr. A.B. Road, Worli
Call 24925353
Cost Rs 525

La Di Da
As its name alludes to, this tequila cocktail is that quintessential drink with sophisticated, complex and urban flavours and it shows off the best of tequila in a wonderful way. Chef and founder of The Boston Butt, Siddharth Kashyap who came up with this drink, prefers to have it shaken and stirred in a cocktail glass. The Bianco tequila, avocado, basil and pineapple juice allow the spirit to shine through all its glory. And shine it sure does!
At The Boston Butt, 1^st floor, Rampart Row, 30 K. Dubash Marg, Kalaghoda, Fort
Call 9892447669/69470000
Cost Rs 411


Mexican Sunset
​Perfectly referencing the natural phenomenon of a sunset that it is named after in its look, this cocktail developed by Old Wild West’s assistant bartender, Vivek Talekar is a perfect blend of spice and fruit with a fiery twist. Flavoured with orange, jalapeño and grenadine, this shaken tropical tequila libation is sure to get the party started, come sunset!
At Old Wild West, 1^st floor, Trade View Building, Kamala Mills, Lower Parel
Call 65376677
Cost Rs 499

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 12th February 2018 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India https://m.mid-day.com/articles/seven-tequila-based-cocktails-to-tank-up-before-the-drink-dries-up/19053176)

A-N-A-T-O-M-I-Z-E: 40-Layered Matcha Cake

By Raul Dias

Given my tripartite obsession with French, Japanese and Goan food—and to their patisserie components in particular—the novelty of this dessert struck me as brilliant as it was placed on my table after a particularly indulgent Japanese meal. Combining the highly skilled layer upon layer construction of a French mille-crepe cake meets Goan bebinca, interspersed with clouds of flavoured whipped cream and lending to it a sense of Japanese delicacy thanks to the sake that’s mixed into its batter, as well as the liberal use of green tea, is the 40-Layered Matcha Cake.
For the Japanese, tea—and especially green tea of the matcha variety—is something that is exalted to high gastronomic heaven. From the strict protocol-laden, tea ceremony where matcha takes the lead role, to the ubiquitous green tea-flavoured glutenous rice cake called mochi, you’re ne’er too far away from a close encounter of the delicious kind with the highly perfumed, yet subtly flavoured tea.
And taking the Japanese cuisine’s obsession with the matcha powder a step ahead, this far eastern rendition of the mille-crepe cake by Chef Ting Yen of Yuuka at The St. Regis Mumbai heroes the bitter-sweet green tea powder in two ways. First, each of the 40 layers are separated from each other with an unctuous whipped cream frosting to which a generous amount of matcha is added, while the final top layer is liberally dusted with the almost neon green coloured tea powder.
Cleverly offsetting the richness of this dessert are its other accoutrements that take the form of a a sticky rum-n-raisin sauce drizzle, a couple of tart raspberries and a refreshing sprig of mint. All this is finished off with shiny, tempered chocolate quills and shards, because what’s a dessert without a bit of chocolate indulgence?

(This column first appeared in the 4th February 2018 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 8 http://www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/tp-features/tp-sundaymagazine/40-layered-matcha-cake/article22648332.ece)

Go, Goa? ...Gone!

With an impressive selection of super luxurious villas and heritage homes on hire via Airbnb, Goa—India’s ultimate holiday and party destination pulls out all the stops for your next vacation. We bring you a few such decadent digs scattered across the sunshine state.

By Raul Dias

The Figueiredo Heritage Inn, Loutolim
Imagine vacationing in a heritage home that’s older than the Taj Mahal? Yes, The Figueiredo Heritage Inn, located slap bang in the heart of Loutolim, is home to one of the most influential families of Goa—the Figueiredos—for more than 400 years. The house is steeped in history with floor tiles imported from Italy, chandeliers and sconces made from Belgium crystal, porcelain sourced from China and Japan, and leather-upholstered chairs from Portugal. Besides the family suite, this historic house has three bedrooms in the house, each named after illustrious women who lived here—Amalia Double, Georgina Twin, and Elsa Twin. However, the highlights of the property are the garden courtyard, the sun deck, and an envious library that boasts a rare collection of books. Very much still a family home, the Airbnb mansion still houses members of the Figueiredo family. In fact, if you ask nicely, Maria de Lourdes Figueiredo de Albuquerque, the current owner, will even take you on a private tour to give you an insider’s account of the days of the Portuguese rule that ended in 1961. Additionally, a section of the house has been converted into a museum which remains open all week.

Accomodates: 6 people
Price: Starts from Rs. 11,000 per night
Book at: airbnb.co.in/users/show/129688399

The Villa Goa, Assagao
Painstakingly restored to its former glory by its current owner, British expat Mark Bell is The Villa in the bucolic north Goa village of Assagao. This historic 200-year-old Indo - Portuguese mansion that has now been thrown open to travellers seeking a refuge in nature, is spread over one and a half acres of manicured gardens and is divided up into two houses. The statelier The Villa and the pool-side garden bungalow aptly called Villa Jardim (with the word ‘jardim’ meaning garden in Portuguese). Set around the traditional open courtyard, the five bedrooms and dining areas of The Villa Goa honour the rich legacy of their former Portuguese occupants. Here, you can dine by a sonorous fountain in the courtyard as the in-house European chef serves up your favourite dishes. The Airbnb villa also has Gregory Bazire—who has collaborated with several Michelin-starred restaurants across the world— on board on special occasions to offer a memorable dining experience to guests. Follow the garden path to find a small chapel, nestled in greens, where you can have healing massages and spa treatments. Pure, undiluted bliss!

Accomodates: 10 people
Price: Starts from Rs. 60,000 per night
Book at: airbnb.co.in/users/show/2481046

Villa Solitude, Siolim
Like its name suggests, Villa Solitude offers just that—solitude! Far away from the hum-drum of a typical Goan tourist spot, this sky blue painted villa is nestled in the quiet and beautiful village of Siolim in the north of the state, next to the placid River Chapora. The Airbnb villa has four aesthetically designed bedrooms, a fully equipped kitchen, a spacious living room, and a private swimming pool in the backyard. When you walk out of your bedroom, you will be greeted by cool breeze and swaying palms. While the netted verandah on the first floor is the sweet spot of the property, the balcony on the ground floor is an ideal place to host barbeque get-togethers. Sit back, relax, take that breeze in, and let the charming Villa Solitude work its wonders on your mind and soul. And if you do manage to tear yourselves away from all that blissful tranquillity, you can visit the nearby Chapora Fort or sharpen your bargaining skills at the weekend Saturday Night Market in Arpora.

Accomodates: 8 people
Price: Starts from Rs. 8,500 per night
Book at: airbnb.co.in/users/show/109762085

Candolim Song, Candolim
This century old Portuguese villa renovated by its owners Remun and Simrita Bhutani is a palatial villa that truly lets you experience the susegado or relaxed life of Goa from the comfort of a plush home in Goa’s party zone of Candolim. Though the house has been renovated with luxurious essentials, yet it manages to maintain its rustic charm. From antique artefacts in the living room to vintage beds in the suites, this Airbnb home is peppered with elements reminiscent of the lives of its earlier occupants. There are six ‘bedroom suites’ in the villa, each named after the colour palette used in the rooms —Teal, Aqua, Fuchsia, Amber, Olive, and Grey. The live-in caretaker makes sure your entire experience at the villa is customised according to your interests. From your bed linen to lighting in the rooms, everything around you is as you like it. The large swimming pool is the central character of the villa—that’s surrounded by palms and an outdoor shower—is a popular venue for evening get-togethers over food, drinks, and music—three vital party ingredients every Goan knows all to well!

Accomodates: 12 people
Price: Starts from Rs. 55,000 per night
Book at: airbnb.co.in/users/show/74097495

Summertime, Calangute
Owned by Dutch-Indian couple Hans Tuinman and Sucheta Potnis, Summertime is a plush plantation-style villa that’s set in two acres of landscape gardens on a hilltop in Calangute. Showing off its intimate charm from the moment you walk in, the double height living-dining area has floor to glass ceiling doors that fill the common spaces with light and offer panoramic views of the lush greenery around the property. Located in a quiet, forested area not far from Calangute and Candolim beaches Summertime has three master suites, an infinity pool, a lounge pool, a koi pond, and a waterfall. Wake up to the chirping of birds or watch the koi in the pond from the generous Koi Suite. The Coral Suite which faces the infinity pool and the valley is the most romantic of all the suites. The interiors of this premium Airbnb property are done in shades of reds, pink, and white with a four-poster bed providing the central character of the room. Meanwhile, the twin bed Sunflower Suite uses colourful gudhri (hand-stitched by tribal women of Karnataka) to lend vibrancy to the room. For a bit of fun, why not try your hand at water sports such as scuba diving, snorkelling or perhaps a bit of banana boating for the kids at one of the two surrounding beaches?

Accomodates: 6 people
Price: Starts from Rs. 40,000 per night
Book at: airbnb.co.in/users/show/39672830

Casa Sol, Candolim
Though a recently constructed house, Casa Sol has been built on the lines of a plush old Goan home. This four-bedroom, three-storied luxury Airbnb villa is close enough to all the action of Candolim, but still tucked away enough for those who prefer the slightly quieter life. Perched close to the flowing banks of the river Nerul and surrounded by a thriving woodland, Casa Sol offers great outside spaces to both dine and drink in nature. As the villa comes equipped with its very own caretaker-cum-cook, you will have plenty of time to chill while they rustle up something local—courtesy of the villa’s fully laden kitchen—for you and your guests. As the sun goes down, take a dip in the compact plunge pool with a cocktail in hand and enjoy views of the surrounding paddy fields. For an excursion, your hosts will provide you with a car so that you can drive down to the historic Fort Aguada or perhaps to take in some contemporary art at the Kerkar Art Comples in nearby Calangute.

Accomodates: 8 people
Price: Starts from Rs. 22,500 per night
Book at: airbnb.co.in/users/show/142345091

Zofolt, Assagao
Revelling in its contemporary-meets-boho chic aesthetic, Zoloft in serene Assagao is a beautiful villa with fascinating artwork, plush sofas and rugs, and comfortable arm chairs that evoke the feeling that you are in a home away from home. Created by a team of acclaimed international designers, Zoloft is a stress buster villa for those who want to leave the city behind. The traditional thatched roof, combined with a carpet of green, and a row of palms surrounding the four-bedroom Airbnb villa make it a postcard destination for a vacation in Goa. In each of its four bedrooms you will also notice fun decor—each is colour-coded—with minimalist elements that make the space cosy and warm. Swim in the pool or have sundowners in the garden at twilight; the kitchen staff can prepare meals for you or leave you alone to experience this villa. Traipse down to the lesser-known Gudem Beach for a spot of sun, surf and sand or hit the tried and tested waters of Anjuna and Baga a mere 10 minutes away

Accomodates: 8 people
Price: Starts from Rs. 27,500 per night
Book at: airbnb.co.in/users/show/10597379

Living Goa Like A Local
Tired of seeing and doing the same things in Goa year upon year? Try these alternative activities curated by a few local Goan movers and shakers, so that you don’t just ‘see’ or ‘do’ Goa, but truly ‘live’ Goa!
* Enjoy a four-cuisine meal with Goan food historian and writer Odette Mascarenhas, as she curates a lunch for you that is influenced by Goa’s four main cuisine genres—the Saraswat Brahmin, the colonial Portuguese, the central Hindu Goan and the more common local Catholic food.
* Try your hand at Portuguese style pottery at the pottery workshops conducted by potter Verodina D’Souza at the Bicholim Pilerne Industrial Estate.
* Learn photography and capture the Goan landscape and historic monuments at their rawest best by taking a short course with ace lensman Shantanu Sheorey who now calls Goa home.
* Enjoy an evening of curated live local music on guitar and keyboards with musician Melcon Teixeira at his lovely home. 

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the February 2018 issue of Jetwings Domestic in-flight magazine of Jet Airwayshttp://www.jetairways.com/EN/IN/jetexperience/magazines.aspx) 

Coastal Cravings

By Raul Dias

The Konkani Muslim Contribution
Ignoring the very integral Konkani Muslim community’s contribution to the cuisine of this belt would be sacrilegious to say the very least! Take for instance saravle. These unique, pasta-like noodles are made from wheat dough that is moulded into the shape of tiny rings by pulling small lumps of beaten dough off a stick. They are then boiled and served as either a sweet dish (like sevvaiya) with milk or as a savoury breakfast dish, stir fried with eggs.
Flatbreads such as the crepe-like chawrachi roti which is made from a dough of boiled rice flour is accompanied by Arab-influenced dishes like the dum cha mhaura, where the fish is cooked using the dum technique. And although the ever-present coconut brings the community’s dishes like the sukhi kolbi (prawn masala) and bangde kelyachya paanat (mackerel in banana leaf) back to their Konkan roots, it is unusual ingredients (for the region, that is) like saunf (fennel) that give them a certain Arab touch. Desserts like peyushi (coconut milk and cashew pudding) and the pancake-like sandan, too, reference the Konkan with its coconut and rice flour components.
A bona fide deliciously diverse cuisine, if there ever was one, is the food of the Konkan!      

Try It Here!
Soon becoming one of India’s most popular cuisines, the food of the Konkan and all its sub groups are being celebrated and savoured across the country. Here’s a list of some of the best places to get in on the Konkan belt food action… 

Delhi NCR

·         Swagath at Malviya Nagar for Mangalorean (Rs. Rs.)

·         Bernardo’s at Gurugram for Gomantak (Rs. Rs.)

·         Incrivel Goa at Dilli Haat for Gomantak (Rs. Rs.)

·         Maharashtra Sadan at India Gate for Malvani (Rs.)

Mumbai

·         The Konkan Café at Vivanta By Taj President, Cuffe Parade for Mangalorean, Malvani and Gomantak (Rs. Rs. Rs.)

·         Mahesh Lunch Home at Fort, Juhu, Andheri East, Vashi and Thane for Mangalorean, Malvani and Gomantak (Rs. Rs.)

·         Trishna at Fort for Mangalorean (Rs. Rs.)

·         Hotel Malvan Kinara at Dadar West for Malvani (Rs.)

Bengaluru

·         Kanua at Sarjapur Road for Mangalorean (Rs. Rs.)

·         Carnival de Goa at Ulsoor for Gomantak (Rs. Rs.)

·         Mangalore Pearl at Frazer Town for Mangalorean (Rs. Rs.)

·         Kamat Lokaruchi at Mysore Road for Mangalorean (Rs.)

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Price Guide

Rs.= Inexpensive

Rs. Rs.= Moderate

Rs. Rs. Rs.= Expensive

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the February 2018 issue of Jetwings International in-flight magazine of Jet Airways http://www.jetairways.com/EN/IN/jetexperience/magazines.aspx)