Sushi 2.0

Today, on International Sushi Day, we liberate all you sushi fans from the shackles of boring, old, run-of-the-mill iterations and introduce you to six of the most unusual and odd ball interpretations of sushi available in the city.

By Raul Dias

Prawns and Edamame Sushi Pizza
If there’s one aspect of sushi that’s truly remarkable, then that would have to be its ability to experiment with both ingredients and presentation styles. Take this innovative sushi pizza for example. Locally sourced prawns and that quintessential Japanese ingredient, edamame are combined with a honey, chilli and fresh mango sauce and shaped to resemble a slice of pizza. “Sushi and pizza are perhaps two the most loved comfort foods and there couldn’t have been a better occasion than International Sushi Day to celebrate the confluence of the two,” says Chef Paul Kinny, Culinary Director, Shizusan Shophouse & Bar.  
At Shizusan Shophouse & Bar, High Street Phoenix, Lower Parel.
Call 62373536
Cost Rs 375 (per slice)

BLT Sushi Sandwich
Pushing the boundary even further, this sushi variant gets a top score on the innovation charts! Taking the classic all-American bacon, lettuce and tomato sandwich and giving it a far eastern fillip as a sushi are the guys at The Fatty Bao. Here, bacon, lettuce and roasted tomato are layered in vinegared-rice and a nori sheet for the ultimate sushi sandwich hybrid. “This sandwich sushi is inspired by the onigirazu sushi, where sushi rice and nori sheets are used to make sandwich shapes with various fillings,” says Chef Prashanth, Executive Chef, The Fatty Bao.
At The Fatty Bao, G1, 108, Morya Classic, Off New Link Road, Andheri West.
Call 62366323/7738008460
Cost Rs 490 (4 pieces)

Tsu No Maki
Just when you thought you’d seen the last mango of the season, you see it well-represented in this totally wacky maki sushi. Joining the salmon-tuna protein duo are slivers of ripe mango and vinegar-sushi rice to make a quadrant shaped piece of sushi. And this is why it is named Tsu No Maki, because in Japanese “Tsu No” means four. “Classical sushi consists of seasonal ingredients prepared using the most sophisticated methods to bring out the best natural flavour of the dish. Where as in the case of innovative versions of sushi, we use local and seasonal ingredients like mango which are much appreciated by our guests,” says Chef Yogendra Adep, Chef De Cuisine, The St. Regis Mumbai
At Yuuka, Level 37, The St. Regis Mumbai, 462, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel West.
Call 61628422
Cost Rs 2,100 (8 pieces)

Gobo Nigiri
As one of Japanese cuisine’s most popular ingredients, the burdock root or gobo is a herb that not just detoxifies the blood, but it is also great for the lymphatic system and skin. Distilling the goodness of this ingredient that we very rarely see in Indian Japanese restaurants is Pa Pa Ya’s all veg Gobo Nigiri. Here, gobo root is combined with carrot, cucumber and avocado that are rolled in a nori sheet, resulting in a sweet, yet pungent sushi roll. “Gobo has a high percentage of irons and vitamins A and B. While creating the dish I wanted to keep the taste authentic as well as make it a healthier option for sushi with the further addition of carrots, cucumber and avocado,” says Chef Sahil Singh, Sr Executive Chef, Pa Pa Ya.
At Pa Pa Ya, Hotel Diplomat, B. K. Boman Behram Marg, Colaba.
Call 8451011174
Cost Rs 625 (8 pieces)

Battera Sushi with Salmon and Tuna
Very little is known about the Osaka-style pressed sushi called oshizushi. Introducing us, to not just this regional sushi speciality, but going one step further and topping it off with three very unusual ingredients—avocado tartare, capers and onion salsa is the Battera Sushi with salmon and tuna. “Battera sushi, that is moulded in a special wooden box, is both fun to eat and lovely to look at. And not to mention different from the usual monotony of rolled sushi, that one sees everywhere,” says Chef Vikram Khatri, Executive Chef, Hello Guppy.
At Hello Guppy, Ground Floor, Godrej-BKC, G-Block, BKC.
Call 26534720
Cost Rs 720 (8 pieces)

Mafia Roll
Never mind its rather intimidating name, this sushi roll is all about fun. How else can one explain the use of popping corn as one of its main ingredients? This uramaki (inside out) roll of corn tempura with piquillo peppers and gochujang mayonnaise that’s garnished with some popcorn and parsley has an interesting story behind its name. “The pop and bang of the Italian Mafia is carried forward into this sushi roll which has popping corn and fiery roasted piquillo peppers along with the bang of spicy gochujang mayonnaise,” says Chef Farrokh Khambata, Owner-Chef, Joss.
At Joss, Ground Floor, Savoy Chambers, Linking Road, Santacruz West.
Call 26617771
Cost Rs 850 (8 pieces)


Recipe for…
Sriracha Blush Maki Sushi

Ingredients:
15gm Avocado Cubes
15gm Cucumber Batons
10gm Shredded Carrot
15gm Jalapeño Tempura Fried
15gm Cream Cheese
10gm Black Sesame Seeds
120gm Sushi Rice (boiled)
30ml Sushi Vinegar
1 Nori Seaweed Sheet
10ml Sriracha Hot Chilli Sauce
10gm Tobanjan Paste
10gm Togarashi Japanese Spice Powder
10gm Kewpie Japanese Mayonnaise

Method:
* Place the nori sheet on a sushi mat and spread the cooked and vinegar-sprinkled sushi rice on it. Sprinkle togarashi and sesame seeds on top of the rice.
* Turn over the sheet. Put cream cheese, avocado, cucumber, carrot, fried jalapeño tempura in the centre of the sheet.
* Roll it tightly and cut into eight pieces and arrange on a platter.
* Drizzle with Kewpie mayonnaise mixed with tobanjan paste and dot with sriracha sauce.

--Recipe courtesy Chef Paul Kinny, Culinary Director, Shizusan Shophouse & Bar

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 18th June 2018 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 22 https://www.mid-day.com/articles/international-sushi-day-heres-six-unusual-picks-from-across-mumbais-eateries/19530158)

Vegxotica!

From bitter melon to taro and from purple sweet potato to fox nuts, a host of exotic vegetarian ingredients hope to change the oriental restaurant menu’s lexicon across the city in 2018

By Raul Dias

Hanoi Bitter Melon Shrimp Salad
As its name suggest, this Vietnamese-style salad on the menu at Shizusan is a melange of herbs, shrimps, carrot shavings, citrus nam plah, roasted peanuts and that one ingredient—bitter melon—that has an interesting back story. In Vietnamese homes, bitter melon is usually cooked at the start of their new year as a reminder of the bitter living conditions of the past. “This salad of ours is an ode to these festivities. Bitter melon is one of those underappreciated vegetables that take some time getting used to. Although the bitterness at times can get unbearable, it’s also unique while having medicinal benefits which can’t be overlooked,” says Chef Paul Kinny, culinary director, Bellona Hospitality.
At Shizusan, North Skyzone, High Street Phoenix, Lower Parel.
Call 7045004138
Cost Rs 365

Taro Tempura and Purple Potato Maki
This all-veg ura maki (inside-out maki roll) at Yuuka has a taro stuffing and is topped with a truffle-purple sweet potato mash, fried sweet potato and Thai red chilly. “There is a saying that learning and creating something new always makes you feel good. The same hold for the key ingredient of this dish—Taro! The tuber is believed to be one of the world’s earliest cultivated plants and has a tremendous health benefits associate with it,” believes Chef Himanshu Taneja, director of culinary, The St. Regis Mumbai.
At Yuuka at The St. Regis Mumbai, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel.
Call 8291926985/61628422
Cost Rs 1,600

Asparagus and Arugula Salad with Fox Nut
Served warm, this asparagus and arugula salad at Hello Guppy sees the very exotic fox nut sprinkled over it along with grilled asparagus, all jazzed up with a wafu dressing. The addition of the fox nut is in keeping with the Japanese concept of yakuzen, or medicinal cooking. “Fox nuts are great examples of this medicinal aspect, as they act as an aphrodisiac, along with being low in cholesterol, fat and sodium. They are also gluten-free and add the perfect crunch to this salad,” says head chef, Vikram Khatri.
At Hello Guppy, Ground Floor, Godrej-BKC, G-Block, BKC.
Call 26534720/7777049773
Cost Rs 249

Chilean Sea Bass with Blue Pea Pod Rice
This sea bass dish, at the new Thai-Robata restaurant Izaya, that heroes its brilliantly blue rice component, is a hearty serving of chunks of Chilean sea bass on a bed of jasmine rice coloured blue with the blue pea pod. This pod, that’s native to Thailand, has the unique characteristic of changing colour when any form of acid is added to it. “The reasons we use the blue pea is the appeal it brings to the dish, whilst keeping the flavour neutral. It is also one of those rare natural ingredients that imparts a blue tint. The inspiration for this exotic ingredient came from our trip to Thailand where the pod is used in colouring drinks such as iced teas and sodas,” says chef and owner, Farrokh Khambata.
At Izaya, NCPA, Gate No. 2, Nariman Point.
Call 22821212
Cost Rs 2,500

Crispy Taro Veg Spring Roll
Part of a dim sum trio that includes a black truffle dumpling and a veg dumpling, this spring roll at Dashanzi is prepared with gently rolled out wheat flour wrappers that are filled in with a blend of crunchy shredded vegetables along with steamed and mashed taro root, then sautéed in soy sauce. “Taro, a tropical vegetable which is high in fibre, is known to soak up flavours. Thus, it easily marinates, absorbing the peppery-tangy flavour of the pickled filling. The root ingredient plays an important role in delicacies that are traditionally eaten during the Chinese New Year celebrations,” says Cheang Chee Leong, chef de cuisine.
At Dashanzi, JW Marriott Mumbai Juhu, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu.
Call 66933344
Cost Rs 995

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 19th February 2018 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 23 https://www.mid-day.com/articles/mumbai-food-exotic-asian-veggies-now-making-way-to-restaurant-menus/19087160)

A-N-A-T-O-M-I-Z-E: 40-Layered Matcha Cake

By Raul Dias

Given my tripartite obsession with French, Japanese and Goan food—and to their patisserie components in particular—the novelty of this dessert struck me as brilliant as it was placed on my table after a particularly indulgent Japanese meal. Combining the highly skilled layer upon layer construction of a French mille-crepe cake meets Goan bebinca, interspersed with clouds of flavoured whipped cream and lending to it a sense of Japanese delicacy thanks to the sake that’s mixed into its batter, as well as the liberal use of green tea, is the 40-Layered Matcha Cake.
For the Japanese, tea—and especially green tea of the matcha variety—is something that is exalted to high gastronomic heaven. From the strict protocol-laden, tea ceremony where matcha takes the lead role, to the ubiquitous green tea-flavoured glutenous rice cake called mochi, you’re ne’er too far away from a close encounter of the delicious kind with the highly perfumed, yet subtly flavoured tea.
And taking the Japanese cuisine’s obsession with the matcha powder a step ahead, this far eastern rendition of the mille-crepe cake by Chef Ting Yen of Yuuka at The St. Regis Mumbai heroes the bitter-sweet green tea powder in two ways. First, each of the 40 layers are separated from each other with an unctuous whipped cream frosting to which a generous amount of matcha is added, while the final top layer is liberally dusted with the almost neon green coloured tea powder.
Cleverly offsetting the richness of this dessert are its other accoutrements that take the form of a a sticky rum-n-raisin sauce drizzle, a couple of tart raspberries and a refreshing sprig of mint. All this is finished off with shiny, tempered chocolate quills and shards, because what’s a dessert without a bit of chocolate indulgence?

(This column first appeared in the 4th February 2018 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 8 http://www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/tp-features/tp-sundaymagazine/40-layered-matcha-cake/article22648332.ece)