Sunday, June 25, 2017

A-N-A-T-O-M-I-Z-E: Messob Platter

By Raul Dias





I’ve always believed that Chennai is a great food city for the experimental diner and this fact has been proven to me time and again. And that super muggy April afternoon was no different, as I sat down to a traditional Ethiopian meal at Abyssinian, the eight-month old Ethiopian cuisine restaurant in Alwarpet.
Having eaten Ethiopian food—in Liverpool, UK of all places during my student days there—I had a fair understanding of what was in store for me and my rather clueless friends. Called a messob platter, the main meal is meant for four people. And this is had sitting down at a traditional low table and stool set, with all eating from the same large steel platter.
Onto this, a soft, spongy neer dosa meets appam-like bread called injera (which can be made from an indigenous Ethiopian grass called teff, rice and in our case ragi or finger millet) is first placed as a lining (and more rolls on the side) onto which each diner gets their own daub of yummy dishes.
And thus began a procession of delectable offerings like yebeg bozena shiro, a delicious mutton and chickpea powder-based dish, slow-cooked with Ethiopia’s popular — and spicy — red berbere sauce. Mesir wot, a divine (and beautifully coloured) combination of split red lentils simmered in spicy berbere sauce was next.
 The simple, yet flavourful fasolia followed, which is dish of string beans, sautéed with carrots and caramelised onions.
The main ‘star’ of course, was Ethiopia’s national dish, doro wat—a thick chicken stew with boiled eggs, a sweet onion base and loads of berbere. Not to be left behind was the doro tibs a very light, fragrant chicken preparation seasoned with rosemary. Balancing all the meat-y excesses was shiro (chickpea stew), dinich wot (curried potatoes) and finally yatakilt wot made up of curried vegetables.
We ended this almost-three-hours-long meal with a splash of traditional, strong Ethiopian coffee into which one can add sugar or salt and Ethiopia’s version of ghee called niter. Accompanying this was the de rigueur bowl of popcorn that no post-prandial coffee drinking session in Ethiopia can ever be complete without!


(This column first appeared in the 25th June 2017 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 8 http://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/food/messob-platter/article19132504.ece)

Monday, June 19, 2017

Shaken and yes…stirred!

With today being celebrated as World Martini Day, why not take your pick from some of Mumbai’s most wacky martini-style cocktails that feature everything from to the decidedly frou frou lavender to the typically Indian paan as ingredients    

By Raul Dias



Mon Cheri
Imbued with an experimental streak when it comes to his bar, Pranav Mody the The Sassy Spoon’s manager and mixologist, sends off this rather exotic looking, deep purple-hued cocktail with a generous pour of house-infused lavender-hibiscus vodka, and vanilla, along with a splash of orange liqueur and citrus mix. Adorned with a marigold flower to offset the colour, the drink is the ultimate ode to flower power.
At The Sassy Spoon, Express Towers, Nariman Point
Call 9920003500
Cost
Rs 600




Smoked Aspacado
This martini cocktail one truly lives up to its ‘salad cocktail’ descriptor on the drinks’ menu. Here, Rakesh Pardeshi, the assistant bar supervisor first smokes avocado cubes and chopped asparagus that are then muddled together with simple syrup, lime juice and gin and garnished with a blanched asparagus spear.
At Estella, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu.
Call 7999998232, 7999998212
Cost Rs 895



Kale & Hearty
Though the whole hype around kale may be on the wane this year, it still shows up in this rather refreshing and ‘healthy’ drink. In this martini-style cocktail, the leafy veggie is muddled with spinach, cucumber, vodka and homemade ginger syrup, with a hit of lime-n-lemon sours and sent off with a crispy fried kale chip as the garnish.
At Swey, Atria Mall, Worli.
Call 9820436666
Cost Rs
500



Green Tea & Lavender Martini
This fragrant, floral vodka martini is made using a special in-house green tea and lemongrass infusion. To this, thyme and lavender are added to give more layers to the herbaceous, floral notes. A spritz of vodka and lemon juice finishes it off. All this jazzed up with the Theory signature garnish of fresh jasmine buds and a few sprigs of thyme.
At
Theory, Kamala Mills, Lower Parel
Call
66666506
Cost
Rs 860




Paan Martini
Bringing an Indian flavour to World Martini Day is this very desi Paan Martini Cocktail that’s often accompanied by a paan-flavoured ice-cream. Made with paan masala, gulkhand, vodka and lime juice and served with a garnish of betel leaf and rose petals, this cocktail was created by the bar’s head bartender who missed his father’s paan dani (paan case) and more so, the aroma of it
At The Sahib Room & Kipling Bar at The St. Regis Mumbai, Lower Parel
Call
61628422
Cost
Rs 900


(An edited version of this article appeared in the 19th June 2017 issue of the evening edition of Mid-Day newspaper, India http://www.mid-day.com/articles/mumbai-food-world-martini-day-martini-style-cocktails-drinks-mumbai-bars-sassy-spoon-lfiestyle/18351183)


Saturday, June 10, 2017

Paris Version 2.0

Discarding Paris of its clichéd tropes and seeing it from a whole new perspective is what Raul Dias did recently on his whistle stop trip to the City of Lights. 



Pics: Rebecca Marshall for Airbnb

First things first. I’d like to tender an unconditional apology to those of you who are reading this travel piece expecting it to be about all things Paris. Well, although it is about Paris, oxymoronically it also isn’t. You won’t find lengthy prose on the “fecund beauty” of the Jardin des Tuileries. Or find me going into hyperbolic overdrive over the “luminescent magic” of the Eiffel Tower. I’ll probably save those for a less discerning reader!
But yet, this article is still about Paris. It is the Paris I saw this May sans rose tinted glasses. The Paris that presented itself to me in all its naked, unabashed glory. The Paris that accepted me as one of its own and gave me an insider’s perspective on a hard-to-permeate society and culture.

Accommodation with a difference!
So, eschewing the creature comforts of an almost sterile, de rigueur chain hotel room, I booked myself in with an Airbnb apartment for the very first time in my life. Sitting on the busy Rue de Bretagne in Paris’ trendy Le Marais neighbourhood, my three-bedroom apartment was the perfect little nest. Done up in a mix of neo baroque and modern furniture and décor, the first-floor apartment was everything I was looking for. Intimate, personal and very, very Parisian.
With the apartment’s caretaker giving me a quick orientation of the place, like how to operate the washing machine/dishwasher etc and dropping off my keys, I was left on my own to enjoy its sumptuousness. But before that, the fridge needed some stocking up. So, I sauntered down for a walk around the neighbourhood that would be mine for the next two days.

Being a Sunday, the weekend flea market was unfurling itself in all its glory on the street below the apartment. Bric-a-brac, vintage fur coats, mid-century modern style furniture—all on full display here. But it was the aroma of roasting chicken that was most alluring to me at that point of time. Stopping by a typically French rotisserie had always been something I had wanted to do, but had never had the opportunity thus far. Packing up a quarter roast chicken, a side of potatoes dauphinoise and buttered garlic carrots, a small baguette bread and a slice of pistachio-apricot pie, I made my way back ‘home’ for my first lunch in Paris that was all things a great lunch should be.

Bar hopping and more…
A quick post prandial nap and off I was to join Anto—short for Antonio—on his organised ‘Storm the Bars of Bastille’ three-hour tour (around Rs 4,000) per person, including drinks and bites) that zigzags through Paris’ streets of wine dives and speakeasies—all in the trendy Bastille area, a short walk away from Le Marais. Part of the newly launched Airbnb Trips initiative, this bar crawl began at a scruffy-chic wine dive bar called Chez Habibi where our group of eight was toasted with a bottle of crisp chardonnay and introductions made. 

Originally from Colombia, Anto moved to Paris for love and is now THE person to give travellers an insight into the city’s vibrant drinking scene. In fact, recently, a French newspaper called him “the guy who makes a living by biking and hitting the town.” Yes, Anto also leads biking trips around the city as part of another Airbnb Trips initiative. 

But back to our bar crawl and our next stop was the all red Chinese restaurant Le China for some lip-smacking cocktails and yummy dimsums. This we followed up with a hearty dinner of confit duck, roast potatoes and a glass of kir royale (crème de cassis topped with Champagne) at Le Chat Bossu, a traditional French brassier. 

The night was not over yet as Anto took us for after dinner drinks to his favourite speakeasy Moonshiner on Rue Sedaine. This one is a total insider-only place where you enter from the kitchen doors of a rather nondescript pizza parlour. It sure made us feel like we were back in the Prohibition Era!

Louvre with a difference
Up bright and early the next morning, I continued my unusual Paris trip leitmotif with a museum visit with a twist. Now, before you think I succumbed to a Paris trip cliché like paying a visit to the Louvre, let me set the record straight. Yes, I am guilty of segueing it in to my ‘no tropes’ Paris itinerary. But to my defense, I did it with a big, big difference! Cedrik. The stand-up comic with a mononym does a very uniquely curated Airbnb Trips tour called ‘Laugh Your Way Through the Louvre’ (around Rs 5,416 per person, including the entry fee and a tea/coffee/hot chocolate).

The two-hour long tour was a laugh-a-minute riot with Cedrik casting a humorous net over the rather somber exhibits of the world’s greatest museum. Being an art historian and stand-up comic, he truly had us cracking up (pun unintended!) in front of the Mona Lisa and giggling in front of Greek relics.
And just like that my two days doing Paris off the beaten track drew to a dramatic close. And while I dare not suggest skipping the more touristy sights altogether, it’ll do us all a whole lot of good to not just ‘see’ or to ‘go’ to a city like Paris, but truly ‘experience’ and ‘live’ it!  


FACT FILE
Getting There
There are a number of daily direct flights from Mumbai to Paris on airlines such as Air France, and Jet Airways. The super-efficient Paris metro makes travelling within the city a piece of cake. We suggest buying a day pass for unlimited access. Indian passport holders need a Schengen visa to visit France and the same can be obtained at the French Consulate in Mumbai.
When To Visit
The spring and summer are the best times to visit Paris, with the months from May to September seeing plenty of free music concerts held in parks and other public places. But for a real taste of French national pride, make sure to orient your trip around the 14th of July which is the French National Day also called Bastille Day.

Accommodation
Paris has an excellent selection of hotels to choose from to suit all budgets and tastes. But in keeping with the ‘insider view’ of this piece, we recommend renting out an Airbnb apartment. This way, you not only get to stay in a true-blue Parisian apartment, but also stay at some of the most gorgeous addresses in the city. As Airbnb lists everything from a neo baroque-style apartment in Le Marais neighbourhood of Paris to a chic minimalistic home near the Notre Dame cathedral that’s owned by… get his, Bryan Adams!
(www.airbnb.co.in)

(A shorter, edited version of this article appeared in the 10th June 2017 issue of the Afternoon Despatch & Courier newspaper, India http://www.afternoondc.in/mumbai-mix/paris-in-a-new-light/article_196937)


Friday, June 9, 2017

Risotto—Desi Ishtyle!

From a chicken cafreal-laced iteration to one that eschews the more the de rigueur arborio rice in favour of gobindobhog rice—the risotto is being re-imagined by Mumbai restaurants and how…

By Raul Dias



Venice to Lucknow
This culinary hybrid is made by infusing the spirit of Lucknow and Venice by marrying ingredients and flavours from the two food capitals of the world. The rice used is basmati and arborio in equal quantities and is delicately flavoured with Awadhi spices like mace, dried rose petals and green cardamom, and then scented and soaked with Merlot. A quartet of juicy galouti kebabs are topped over the risotto with farm fresh veggies and parmesan cheese, with desi ghee to finish it off. The dish is accompanied by a glass of Italian red wine and a spicy flat bread.
At Jeon, Hotel Sea Princess, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu
Call 26469500
Cost Rs 1,099



Sambhar Risotto
While one might argue that this one seems like a jazzed-up version of a humble sambhar rice, let us assure you that this risotto is anything but! Firstly, good quality, perfectly al dente arborio rice is used as its base, to which a tangy, thick sambhar sauce is introduced. Secondly, continuing the desi motif, curry leaves and fried methi (fenugreek) fronds are sprinkled all over the dish, further accentuating its Indian leanings.
At Canto Cafe and Bar, 534, BCMA, SVP Road, Opera House
Call
49711813
Cost Rs
360



Chicken Cafreal Risotto
A riff on the tangy Goan cafreal, this colonial-desi-inspired risotto is served with a grilled chicken breast. Adapted from a Portuguese-Mozambican slave recipe, cafreal is a marinade made from fresh coriander leaves, mint, spices and toddy vinegar. The flavour of the toddy vinegar is what elevates the entire risotto, which is then garnished with parmesan shavings and a sprinkling of pine nuts.
At Radio Bar, Hotel New Castle, Linking Road, Bandra West
Call 9769755542, 9769355503
Cost Rs 450



Dal Makhani Risotto
The perfect amalgamation of Indian flavours and Italian techniques in one dish. The richness of dal makhani, cream and risotto rice with a goat’s cheese garnish is not just filling, but comforting too. One bite of this risotto is enough to bring back to you your Dadi’s homemade food memories, reminding you that a little nostalgia is always great.
At The Terrace, Hotel King’s International Compound, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu
Call 9665295999
Cost Rs
445




Mushroom and Asparagus Risotto with Gobindobhog Rice
In this signature dish of the brand-new eatery, they use the famous short grain, aromatic rice called gobindobhog from Bengal in lieu of the traditionally used arborio rice. This is because the former has the right amount of starch to give the risotto its creamy texture. The addition of the sweet potato leaves and the very desi mustard oil is in keeping with T&T’s philosophy of embracing the best of regional produce and locally-sourced ingredients in a dish, yet serving it with a fresh take.
At Toast & Tonic, Ground Floor, Jet Airways-Godrej Building, ​​BKC, Bandra East
Call
26534722/7777049774
Cost Rs
460

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 9th June 2017 issue of the of Mid-Day newspaper, http://www.mid-day.com/articles/italian-risotto-desi-mumbai-restaurants-food-news/18322196)

Friday, June 2, 2017

Waffle Mania!

Taking an interesting menu detour from the desserts’ section to the main one is the humble waffle. Making ‘savoury waffles’ the hottest food trend of the season at restaurants across Mumbai.

By Raul Dias



Spicy Jalapeno and Melted Queso Waffle
This one’s for those times when you want something savoury for that lazy Sunday brunch that still hints at something sweet… That’s when you should try this all-veg spicy jalapeno and melted queso waffle that’s topped with oodles of unctuous melted cheese. And for that added bite, you can also add some pico de gallo and salsa picante!
CHEF SPEAK: “We like savoury waffles, so we had to have at least one on our menu! We went for a meatless option so that everyone can enjoy these waffles, but some regulars do ask for crispy bacon for a more indulgent treat.”
-Chef Sandeep Sonawane, head chef
At Jamjar Diner, Aram Nagar ll, Versova
Call 26358880, 26368880
Cost Rs 270



Savoury Pumpkin Waffle
This take on a savoury waffle is made up of a gluten free waffle that’s filled with roasted kabocha commonly called Japanese pumpkin — a known aphrodisiac in many cultures — along with sage, caramelised onions and house made tulsi yogurt.
CHEF SPEAK: “Apart from having a chestnut-like texture and sweet potato-like taste profile, kabocha is high in beta carotene, iron, and vitamin C. The waffle is gluten-free and hence you won’t feel a drop of guilt as you savour this savoury waffle.”
-Chef Paul Kinny, culinary director
At 212 All Good, High Street Phoenix, Lower Parel
Call 62216020, 8655012212
Cost Rs
425



Crispy Khimchi and Fried Brocolli Waffle
The crispy khimchi and crunchy broccoli on freshly made tobanjan-spiced waffles, topped with wasabi flavoured sour cream and served with an apple and fennel salad work as a great combination. All this is further enhanced by a squiggle of horseradish mayo and a side of pickled cauliflower.
CHEF SPEAK: “Most people strongly associate waffles as a breakfast option. We wanted to bring out the versatility of waffles through our loaded savoury waffles.”
-Chef Aagar Thite and Chef Harish Devadkar, head chefs
At Swey, Rooftop Atria Mall, Worli
Call 30151682
Cost Rs 625



Waffles Croque Madame
A unique take on the classic French breakfast dish of Croque Madame, here a crispy-topped, fluffy-centered waffle is loaded with local ham, bechamel sauce and finished off with a sunny side up egg and served up with homemade bacon jam. ‘nuff said!
CHEF SPEAK: “The combination of this savoury waffle has worked very well in terms of taste that includes great flavours because of the ham and cheese. It enhances the dish and makes it unique.”
-Chef Kaustubh Gujar, chef de partie
At The Pantry, Kalaghoda, Fort
Call 22678901
Cost Rs
345



Duck and Waffle
While this one may be a clever riff on the Southern American classic fried chicken and waffle combination, here, the rather pedestrian chicken is eschewed in favour of the more game-y duck. So, what we have on hand is a citrus-spiced, slow cooked pulled duck, nestled atop a fluffy, rocket leaf-lined waffle and drizzled with citrus sauce. This is then topped off with the de rigueur runny fried egg. 
CHEF SPEAK: “Universally, the waffle is considered a dessert, but with chefs pushing classic dishes to innovate and educate people’s palettes and taste buds, the waffle has become a fun ingredient.”
-Chef Subhash Shirke, executive chef
At
Woodside Inn, Woodhouse road, Colaba
Call 22025525
Cost Rs
695




Jackfruit Corn Waffle
Here, the rather sparingly used jackfruit is first tossed in homemade barbeque sauce and then set atop a corn meal waffle. Goat cheese is then added to cut through the tanginess, while caramelised onions add a hint of sweetness to the dish. Accompanying this is a side salad of lettuce leaves, endives, arugula and romaine all tossed in a vinaigrette.
CHEF SPEAK: “We at Theory use seasonal produce and fruits for many dishes. Jackfruit being the fruit of the season, we introduced a dish in a savoury and sweet combination.”
-Chef Clyde Comello, chef de cuisine
At
Theory, Kamala Mills, Lower Parel
Call 66666506
Cost Rs 625

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 2nd June 2017 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, http://www.mid-day.com/articles/mumbai-food-waffles-restaurant-menus-mumbai-guide-waffle-varities/18301156)