Waiter, There’s a Dessert in my Drink!

Is it a dessert or is it a cocktail? Precariously balancing that fine line are a host of dessert-inspired cocktails. We sweeten you up with a few such post dinner drinks.

By Raul Dias

Crème Brûlée Martini
This drinkable, ‘martinified’ version of a traditional crème brûlée is a custard and vanilla flavoured cocktail infused with vanilla vodka, replete with a hard-caramel shard to replicate the glassy top of the French dessert.
Available at Scribble Stories, 21B, Santhal ONGC Complex, Opposite Lilavati Hospital, Reclamation, Bandra (w), Mumbai
Call 022-26400754
Cost Rs 475

The Peche Melba
​While the classic dessert, the Peach Melba, was itself invented—again by Auguste Escoffier—in honour of famed Australian opera singer Dame Nellie Melba, this homage to a homage is a cocktail made from strawberry coulis, peach extract and some vanilla ice cream, all shaken with vodka. 
Available at Pandora Gastronomy and Bar, Ground Floor, Nyati Unitree, Nagar Road, Yerwada, Pune
Call 020-30189820
Cost Rs 375

Saucier
​Inspired by a classic dessert cocktail created by French pâtissier Auguste Escoffier, this version sees the pairing of sparkling wine, angostura bitters and maraschino cherry liqueur with bourbon and vanilla ice cream. And to make it still more dessert-esque, it is garnished with an edible nasturtium flower and silver dragées.
Available at The Runway Project, 2nd Floor, North Sky Zone, High Street Phoenix Mills, Lower Parel, Mumbai
Call 022-49151000
Cost Rs 825

Gingerbread Prohibition Pop-up
​This prohibition era-meets-dessert cocktail is a rather unusual melange of bourbon infused with caramel popcorn, espresso, gingerbread and popcorn syrups and a dash of all spice bitter, that’s all topped up with a splash of stout. And in keeping with the speakeasy theme of the drink, the cocktail glass comes wrapped in a sheet of newspaper!
Available at Prankster, Shop No. 8-9-10, First Floor, Sector 29, Gurugram
Call 0124-4266653/54
Cost Rs 425

Toblerone
This after-dinner cocktail that is the deceptively potent sum of its honey, cream, Baileys Irish Cream and dark rum parts, is a drinkable paean to the nougat and honey-redolent, undulating mountain peak-shaped Swiss chocolate bar—the Toblerone.
Available at Izaya, NCPA, Gate No. 2, Nariman Point, Mumbai
Call 022-22821212
Cost Rs 490

Willy Wonka
​No list of dessert cocktails can be complete without a nod to Willy Wonka. Named after him, this post-dinner martini cocktail sees whiskey, creme de cacao and dark chocolate shaken together and poured into a chocolate sauce lined martini glass that’s garnished with a chocolate shard.
Available at The Sassy Spoon, Express Towers, Ramnath Goenka Marg, Nariman Point, Mumbai
Call +91-9920003500
Cost Rs 420

(An edited version of this piece was first published in the 29th January, 2018 issue of India Today magazine https://www.indiatoday.in/magazine/leisure/story/20180129-dessert-cocktails-creme-brulee-martini-gingerbread-prohibition-pop-up-1149657-2018-01-19)

Freakshow!

Much more than just the mere sum of their over-the-top parts, freakshakes truly are milkshakes on steroids and a worldwide trend sugar lovers can’t seem to get enough of.

By Raul Dias

Riding the crest of everything fashionably foodie and au courant in the world of cuisine, thanks to its home-grown reality shows like Masterchef Australia and for its penchant for producing a virtual army of superstar chefs like Peter Gilmore, Adriano Zumbo and the irrepressible Neil Perry, Australia is responsible for the genesis of the mega food trend of the freakshake. Yes, around two years ago, in July 2015 to be more precise, akin to something straight out of science fiction, a ‘monster’ was created at Pâtissez, a rather nondescript bakery and café in Canberra.
Soon London fell for its charms with the now-legendary Molly Bakes cafe in Dalston coming up with totally bonkers versions of the freakshake with everything from lemon and raspberry tartlets, and honeycomb festooning overflowing giant milkshake glasses. And just like some sort of 21^st Century rara avis, the freakshake went viral, amassing a cult-like following thanks to social media, given its tremendous Instagram-worthy appeal.

The Anatomy of a Freakshake
For the uninitiated, this behemoth of a milkshake truly is the mother of all shakes, making for some gloriously messy…and not to mention indulgent satisfaction! A monstrous drink-meets-sundae-meets-dessert, a freakshake gets its name from its rather over-the-top construction methods and its often outlandishly wacky components that make it much more than the mere sum of its parts. 
Poured into everything from the now passé mason jars to the very on trend beer mugs, a freakshake is layered with a cornucopia of treats like heavy cream, bits of cake, pretzels and doughnuts among other confectionary specimens. All this is then drizzled with lashings of sauce, with a fistful of candies and sprinkles thrown in for good measure. But hang on, that’s not all. Aforementioned bits of cake, pretzels and doughnuts find themselves once again taking centre stage as they are haphazardly glued on—with sugar syrup, frosting, jam or peanut butter—to the rim and sides of the glass, giving the freakshake its freaky appearance.

Who’s The Freakiest of Them All?
Forget the maxim ‘less is more’, for in the OTT world of the freakshake ‘more is certainly more’! A couple of months ago, to mark the release of Riverdale season one on DVD, Warner Bros UK and Maxwell’s Covent Garden in London teamed up to create themed freakshakes each based on an Archie comic book character. So, while The Bubblegum Betty freakshake is reflective of Betty’s bubbly personality and is made from a pink bubble gum thick shake topped with whipped cream, candy floss, marshmallows, love hearts and rainbow candy, The Fall from Grace mirrors Veronica’s dark side with an Oreo thick shake, chocolate sauce, and a whole Oreo cookie sandwich as its components.
However, taking things a bit too far, Heliot Steak House in London is believed to have recently added a rather bizarre sounding range of slider freakshakes to their menu. These oddballs include a lobster and avocado slider that sits atop a passion fruit milkshake and a roasted field mushroom, pepper and courgette slider, which is paired with a strawberry milkshake. ‘nuff said!

The Desi Take
Not to be left behind, India too has cottoned on to the freakshake trend churning out (pun intended!) various iterations, many of which reflecting the nations obsession with sugar and more so traditional Indian sweets or mithai. The Mithai Freakshake by Charcoal in Mumbai (see recipe) is one such example that almost contains a virtual sweet shop in and on it! Made with kheer, jalebis, motichoor ladoos and the celebration favourite—gulaab jamun, this diet-busting freakshake references India to the hilt and is not one for the faint hearted. “A freakshake is not just a shake but a phenomenon,” says the Mithai freakshake’s creator, Chef Areez Patel. “This trend is here to last as it has immense scope of experimentation in India. My strong urge to give traditional Indian desserts a freaky twist, making them a multi-sensory delight has resulted in this freakshake that’s a combination of my favourites from Indian desserts.”
Giving their freakshake a vegan twist by using dairy-free cream, The Sassy Spoon in Mumbai and Pune pay homage to an American lunch box classic the peanutbutter and jelly sandwich with their PBJ Vegan Monster Shake (see recipe). “We’ve retained the look and feel of a freakshake, while making it a little bit healthier and vegan friendly,” says Mixologist Pranav Mody, who came up with this version that seeks to go easy on the post-indulgence guilt trip.
But guilty or not, the freakshake phenomenon world-wide is far from done and dusted with. For we predict, as the saying goes “the best (and most bizarre) is yet to come!”

India’s Freakiest Freakshakes!

·         Ferrero Rocher, Kit Kat and Brownie Points freakshakes at Morello’s, Gurugram

·         Banana Nutella, Double Chocolate Fudge, Cadbury Dairy Milk Silk and Vanilla Oreo freakshakes at AMPM Cafe & Bar, Delhi

·         Magnum Choco, Nutella Doughnut and Nutella Mars freakshakes at The Fusion Kitchen, Mumbai

·         Red Velvet, Blue Cheesecake and Lemon Crumble freakshakes at Three Chicks and A Bear, Mumbai

·         Big Bang and Cookie Monster freakshakes at Brik Oven, Bengaluru

·         Belgian Chocolate Cupcake freakshake at Guilt Trip, Bengaluru

·         Waffle Wagon Freakshake at The Chocolate Heaven, Chennai

·         Cookie Monster, Choco Peanut Butter and Banana Caramel freakshakes at Mad Over Freakshakes, Hyderabad

·         Mega Brownie KitKat freakshake at Freak Shake Bro, Hyderabad

·         Blueberry Cheesecake Deconstructed, Mocha Brownie and Mushy Oreo freakshakes at Velvetiine, Kolkata

·         Cotton Candy Berry freakshake at The Street at The Park Hotel, Kolkata

Get Your Freak On
Here are two recipes that show you how to make your very own freakshake at home.

The PBJ Vegan Monster Shake

Ingredients:
1 tbsp Strawberry Jam
180 ml Dairy-free Pouring Cream     
45 ml Peanut Butter   
3/4 Banana                 
1 tbsp Flax Seeds       
Dairy-free Whipped Cream
Melba Toast
Ice Cubes

Method:
1) In a blender add: Strawberry jam, pouring cream, peanut butter, banana, 1/2 tbsp of flax seeds and 2 cubes of ice and blend.
2) Rim a tall milkshake glass with peanut butter and then add a few flax seeds.
3) Spread some peanut butter on the melba toast.
4) Pour the shake into the glass.
5) Top with whipped cream.
6) Stick the melba toast with peanut butter onto the whipped cream.
7) Put a bit of strawberry jam on top of the whipped cream.
8) Sprinkle a few more flax seeds on top and serve with a candy-striped straw.

--Recipe courtesy: Pranav Mody, Mixologist from The Sassy Spoon, Mumbai and Pune

Mithai Freak Shake

Ingredients:
125 gm Poha (flat beaten rice flakes)
375 gm Milk
65 gm Sugar
5 gm Pistachios
3 gm Almonds
A pinch Cardamom Powder
30-40 strands Saffron
9 pcs Mini Gulaab Jamuns
2 pcs Small Crisp Jalebi
4 pcs Motichoor Ladoo
100 gm Whipped Cream
25 gm Milk
5 ml Sugar Syrup
1 small sheet Silver Leaf

Method:
1) For the saffron cream: Whip cream to soft peaks while you heat the 25 gm milk and put half the saffron in it (around 15 strands). Let it sit for 5 mins. After cool add to the cream and whip till mixes well. Put in the ref.
2) For the kheer: Soak the poha in water for 5 mins. Boil the milk in a pan. Reduce flame to low and simmer. Add the soaked poha. Add sugar and stir well until fully dissolved. Switch off the flame and add cardamom powder. Add 4 gulaab jamuns and blend it well. Let it cool.
3) To assemble: Take a large beer mug and crush the motichoor ladoo and put it at the bottom of the glass (leave some for garnish). Put some kheer into it. Put 4 gulaab jamuns, pressing a few on the outside of the glass. Pour more kheer till just below the rim of the glass. Pipe the saffron cream on the top of the glass to a point. Brush one inch of the outer side of the glass with sugar syrup. Stick crushed pistachios on the sugar syrup. Sprinkle motichoor ladoo, almonds, pistachios and saffron on the cream. Sit the jalebi and gulaab jamun on top of the cream and cover with silver leaf. Serve with a long spoon.

--Recipe courtesy: Chef Areez Patel of Charcoal, Mumbai

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the December 2017 issue of Jetwings Domestic in-flight magazine of Jet Airways https://www.jetairways.com/EN/DE/JetExperience/magazines.aspx) 

Hollywood in Your Glass?

Taking India’s love for films to a whole other level are these seven cocktails—each inspired by an iconic Hollywood movie. Each distilling the glamour, wonder and magic of the world of cinema in every drop  

By Raul Dias

Vesper Martini (inspired by Casino Royale, 1967)
This one’s for the James Bond loyalist who likes it, to use the much-bandied about one liner, “shaken, not stirred!” An amalgamation of gin, vodka and the Lillet Blanc brand of French vermouth, garnished with not one, not two, but three olives, Estella’s take on the dirty martini is the perfect ultra-dry drink for a pleasant November evening in Mumbai. “Every man somewhere secretly wants to be James Bond with fast cars, lovely ladies and a life full of passion and adventure. The Vesper Martini is James Bond’s poison as seen in the film Casino Royale. Other than being a huge fan of this classic legendary character, I am personally enamoured by his swag and just had to make room for a clean, mean martini on our cocktail menu. Estella dedicates this to the man himself and of course to his fans,” says Nixon D’Souza, Bar and Beverage Head, Estella.
At Nichani Kutir, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu
Call 7999998232/7999998212
Cost Rs 650

Sherlock in a Pickle (inspired by Sherlock Holmes, 2009 and 2011)
​A sour and savoury cocktail, served with a lot of crushed ice, this blood-red cocktail available at London Taxi pays homage to the murder mystery-saturated Sherlock Holmes books and movies. Tea-infused vodka and gherkin brine is the base for this cocktail, as Sherlock was often found either with a cup of tea or a glass of wine (thus the beetroot wine reduction) in his hands. “While curating the London Taxi cocktail menu, the concept was very clear: to draw inspiration from some of the iconic elements of UK pop culture. Sherlock Holmes is the most popular literary character and very, very British and so the ingredients used in this cocktail have been inspired from his story,” explains, Ami Shroff, Head Mixologist, London Taxi.
At London Taxi, Kamala Mills, A-Wing, Trade World, Lower Parel
Call 9029990454
Cost Rs 700

Willy Wonka (inspired by Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, 2005)
Here’s another cocktail that’s thoroughly inspired by not just an iconic literary character, but also by the film based on that same wacky character—Willy Wonka! This seemingly innocuous blend of whiskey, creme de cacao, dark chocolate, may seem like child’s play, but it packs a mighty punch. “Given the quirkiness of Willy Wonka, and the way they portray chocolate and candy in the movie; this cocktail adds a little tipsy twist to the way we consume chocolate. The idea behind this cocktail was to not only make us feel good with our all-time favourite indulgence—chocolate—but also add a little buzz. The oak-y hint from the whiskey and the creme de cacao helps change the whole composition,” says Pranav Mody, Mixologist, The Sassy Spoon.
At The Sassy Spoon, Ground Floor, Express Towers, Nariman Point
Call 9920003500
Cost Rs 399

Smokin Cosmo (inspired by Sex and the City, 2008 and 2010)
Though we hate to give our cocktails a gender stereotype, this blushing hot pink drink is one for the ladies, just like the fabulous SATC quartet! Go puff, puff on this drink that’s a mix of vodka, Cointreau and lemon juice, all served up in a glass smoking pipe. For, as the name suggests, the Smoking Cosmo is supposed to give the drinker the feeling of smoking a pipe whilst sipping on a classic Cosmopolitan. It gives the traditional Cosmo a fun, quirky twist, making it that much more pleasurable. “To be perfectly honest, the cocktail wasn’t made keeping any specific film in mind. A Cosmo is a classic drink made popular by films like Sex and the City. At Joss, we’ve taken the already sassy drink up a notch and given it our own spin,” says Chef Farrokh Khambata, Proprietor, Joss.
At Joss, Ground Floor, Savoy Chambers, Linking Road, Santacruz (w)
Call 26617771/2
Cost Rs 495

Hawaiian (inspired by Blue Crush, 2002)
The azure waters of Hawaii as depicted in the 2002 surfer flick Blue Crush are the inspiration behind this Tiki-style cocktail that’s a deceptively potent one. It’s also deceptive as the colour is a sunset orange and not a deep blue one would expect. “A Hawaiian cocktail is the ultimate pool-side drink one could wish for. This one’s inspired by the movie Blue Crush which was shot in Hawaii. This cocktail is a perfect balance of vodka, pineapple juice, cardamom and Red Bull, just like how the character of Anne Marie balances her life’s challenges while training for the Hawaii surf event,” says Darren Alvares, Mixologist, Bar Bar.
At Bar Bar, First Floor, Phoenix Marketcity, Kurla
Call 61801501
Cost Rs 225 for 250ml and Rs 399 for 500ml

Moulin Rouge (inspired by Moulin Rouge, 2001)
Baz Luhrmann’s magnum opus Moulin Rouge was a larger-than-life extravaganza that many likened to a Bollywood production thanks to its songs, drama and elaborate sets. This eponymous cocktail seeks to capture the sizzling, passion-filled chemistry that Nicole Kidman and Ewan McGregor shared in the film with its spicy vodka, cinnamon, basil, passionfruit and apple-infused tea parts. “I was inspired by the Moulin Rouge which involves cabaret, a dance form high on music, song, recitation and drama, which I personally think fits in with a place like The Daily Bar and Kitchen,” says Rohit Hegde, Head Mixologist, The Daily Bar and Kitchen.
At The Daily Bar and Kitchen, Ground Floor Behind Shoppers Stop, SV Road, Bandra (w)
Call 9920446633
Cost Rs 400

Churchill Downs (inspired by Secretariat, 2010)
There’s certainly no horsing around this cocktail that’s named after a legendary horse racing track as featured in the 2010 movie Secretariat. Made from a host of ingredients like the banana dominated Dutch liqueur Pisang Ambon, Stolichnaya vodka, charred lemon, wheatgrass, homemade mint and ginger balm syrup, this lurid green cocktail tastes better than it looks! “We recently celebrated one year in the F&B industry and celebrated it over a Kentucky Derby Brunch setting with derby hats, decor and a special set menu around the same theme. The cocktail Churchill Downs is named after the main historic race track at the Kentucky Derby and the cocktail is dedicated to the American thoroughbred racehorse named Secretariat depicted in the movie of the same name,” says the developer of this cocktail, Chef Siddharth Kashyap, The Boston Butt.
At The Boston Butt, 1st floor Rampart Row, Kalaghoda, Fort,
Call 9892447669
Cost Rs 699

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 13th November 2017 issue of the evening edition of Mid-Day newspaper, India)

Desi Makeovers!

From the ubiquitous curry leaf and spicy cumin seed to the piquant burst of pani puri masala and zesty shikanji, cocktails around Mumbai are imbuing themselves with all things deliciously desi with a vengeance these days!   

By Raul Dias

MMS (Monkey Masala Soda)
Monkey Bar is a well-known destination for its unconventional cocktails that junk all the rules and strike off the sugary sweet concoctions—replacing them with a host of original, hugely trendy drinks. For the MMS, kaffir lime is muddled with vodka and a house made masala soda, making for a super refreshing, simple and smooth cocktail.  “It’s no longer about regular cocktails but a whole new spin, where innovation and freshness are firmly at the forefront,” says Nakul Chandra, Brand Head, Monkey Bar.
At Summerville, 14th & 33rd Road, Ground Floor, Linking Road, Bandra West
Call 26005215
Cost Rs 320

Pani Puri Margarita
​The piquant sum of its homemade pani puri water, tequila, triple sec and citrus mix, the pani puri margarita is an ode to Mumbai’s die-hard love affair with the street food staple! “My mother’s pani puri was something I always loved as a kid. One day, it was there for dinner and I had some tequila around so I decided to experiment and it was a match made in heaven. It’s more like mother’s love mixed with my favourite spirit—tequila. Best of both worlds,” says Pranav Mody, Manager and Mixologist, The Sassy Spoon Nariman Point.
At The Sassy Spoon Nariman Point, Ground Floor, Express Towers, Nariman Point
Call 9920003500
Cost Rs 490

Roadside Mule
Tamarind and dates and all the other ingredients—like house tamarind sauce, curry leaves, cumin, ginger, ginger ale—in this cocktail are inspired by the taste of the Indian street chaat which is put together to balance the flavour of the gin and the colour of the drink. “Tamarind and dates were added to the drink to remind the drinker of Indian street food. These also lend a certain freshness to cocktail that is a take on the Moscow Mule but with the Theory magic,” says Emma Pereira, Mixologist, Theory.
At Theory, Unit 1 C Wing, Trade World, Kamala Mills, Lower Parel
Call 66666506
Cost Rs 850

Thai-quilla
‘Same-same, but different’ is an oft-heard phrase when in Thailand and the Thai-quilla cocktail is like a drinkable version of this oxymoronic saying! This Indo-Thai mélange is an amalgamation of kokum and everyone’s favourite tipple tequila, along with Thai basil and fresh lime. “Kokum also known as Indian mangosteen lends a distinct sour element that blends exceptionally well with tequila. The basil adds a Thai twist that helps the cocktail suit our restaurant’s Asian flavours philosophy,” says Farrokh Khambata, Chef and Owner, Umame.
At 1st floor, Cambata Building, Next to Eros Theatre, Churchgate
Call 61110303
Cost Rs 550

China to Kolkata
Part of the special ‘Monsoon Cocktail’ menu at Shizusan Shophouse & Bar, this cocktail is another love child of fusion! The cocktail uses peaches which are native to Northwest China and gondhoraj which literally translates to ‘king of aromas’ and is Bengal’s best kept secret ingredient. “A hybrid of mandarin orange and common lime, gondhoraj is fruitier, crisper and sharper than the regular nimbu—giving the cocktail a more distinct taste that’ll transport you to the quaint streets of Kolkata. You could say, this one’s our take on the classic Peach Margarita,” says Tanai Shirali, Director of Operations, Shizusan.
At Shizusan, Skyzone, Highstreet Phoenix, Lower Parel
Call 7045004138
Cost Rs 525

Shikanji Sour
​An Indian spin on the Whiskey Sour, this cocktail is exciting from the word go. It is a mix of Bourbon, homemade shikanji (North Indian-style limeade) puree, sweet and sour mix, rose syrup, rose water and egg white. All this is garnished with some rosemary. “Indians love shikanji and most of them love whiskey. I wanted to blend two strong yet complimenting flavours that add a natural woodyness and sweetness altogether. Shikanji adds a great fragrance as well, especially when garnished with rosemary,” says Taufeeq Shaikh, Bartender, Estella.
At Nichani Kutir, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu
Call 7999998232/7999998212
Cost Rs 625

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 7th August 2017 issue of the evening edition of Mid-Day newspaper, India http://www.mid-day.com/articles/mumabi-food-six-mumbai-bars-desi-cocktails-twist-lifestyle/18487185)

Shaken and yes…stirred!

With today being celebrated as World Martini Day, why not take your pick from some of Mumbai’s most wacky martini-style cocktails that feature everything from to the decidedly frou frou lavender to the typically Indian paan as ingredients    

By Raul Dias

Mon Cheri
Imbued with an experimental streak when it comes to his bar, Pranav Mody the The Sassy Spoon’s manager and mixologist, sends off this rather exotic looking, deep purple-hued cocktail with a generous pour of house-infused lavender-hibiscus vodka, and vanilla, along with a splash of orange liqueur and citrus mix. Adorned with a marigold flower to offset the colour, the drink is the ultimate ode to flower power.
At The Sassy Spoon, Express Towers, Nariman Point
Call 9920003500
Cost Rs 600

Smoked Aspacado
This martini cocktail one truly lives up to its ‘salad cocktail’ descriptor on the drinks’ menu. Here, Rakesh Pardeshi, the assistant bar supervisor first smokes avocado cubes and chopped asparagus that are then muddled together with simple syrup, lime juice and gin and garnished with a blanched asparagus spear.
At Estella, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu.
Call 7999998232, 7999998212
Cost Rs 895

Kale & Hearty
Though the whole hype around kale may be on the wane this year, it still shows up in this rather refreshing and ‘healthy’ drink. In this martini-style cocktail, the leafy veggie is muddled with spinach, cucumber, vodka and homemade ginger syrup, with a hit of lime-n-lemon sours and sent off with a crispy fried kale chip as the garnish.
At Swey, Atria Mall, Worli.
Call 9820436666
Cost Rs 500

Green Tea & Lavender Martini
This fragrant, floral vodka martini is made using a special in-house green tea and lemongrass infusion. To this, thyme and lavender are added to give more layers to the herbaceous, floral notes. A spritz of vodka and lemon juice finishes it off. All this jazzed up with the Theory signature garnish of fresh jasmine buds and a few sprigs of thyme.
At Theory, Kamala Mills, Lower Parel
Call 66666506
Cost Rs 860

Paan Martini
Bringing an Indian flavour to World Martini Day is this very desi Paan Martini Cocktail that’s often accompanied by a paan-flavoured ice-cream. Made with paan masala, gulkhand, vodka and lime juice and served with a garnish of betel leaf and rose petals, this cocktail was created by the bar’s head bartender who missed his father’s paan dani (paan case) and more so, the aroma of it! 
At The Sahib Room & Kipling Bar at The St. Regis Mumbai, Lower Parel
Call 61628422
Cost Rs 900

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 19th June 2017 issue of the evening edition of Mid-Day newspaper, India http://www.mid-day.com/articles/mumbai-food-world-martini-day-martini-style-cocktails-drinks-mumbai-bars-sassy-spoon-lfiestyle/18351183)

A-N-A-T-O-M-I-Z-E: PBJ Freakshake

By Raul Dias

“Do I eat it with the spoon?” I wonder. “No! Perhaps, I should try having a go at it with the straw”, the more rational side of me chimes in. I’m sitting at Molly Bakes, a quaint, wee spot of a bakery along Kingsland Road in East London on a freezing October afternoon. Plonked in front of me is my first ever freakshake, with a mini brick of brownie perilously perched on the lip of the glass and threatening to topple over at any time.

For the uninitiated, a ‘freakshake’ is like the Godzilla of all milkshakes, overflowing with lashings of cream, chocolate and caramel sauces, and indulgent delicacies such as chunks of brownie, nuts, pretzels, biscuits and even whole slices of pie! Just like the cronut craze a couple of years ago, 2016 saw the freakshake achieve cult-like status after it debuted at an obscure little bakery and café called Pâtissez in Canberra, Australia. Yes, we have the land that gave us Vegemite and Crocodile Dundee to thank for this bottomless behemoth of a drink.

Taking the vegan route, The Sassy Spoon in Bandra, Mumbai prefers soy cream in lieu of the more de rigueur full fat cream for its iteration of the freakshake. This goes on to be blended with an American school lunch box classic combination of peanut butter and tart strawberry jam and flax seed for that added crunch.


Topped off with a cloud of whipped soy cream, more jam and a sprinkling of flax seeds, with shards of melba toast clinging to the seemingly overflowing rim of the glass, cemented with a shmear of peanut butter.

(This column first appeared in the 7th May 2017 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 8 http://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/food/pbj-freakshake/article18399568.ece)

Who put the savoury in my dessert?

From kidney beans and goat’s cheese to olive oil as dessert ingredients—and a whole lot more in between—restaurants around the city are pushing the envelope as far as their new summer desserts are concerned, with many that seemed to have merrily skipped off the savoury menu onto the desserts’ one!

By Raul Dias

Pink Peppercorn Mousse with Passion Fruit Curd
Now, usually desserts end on a sweet note. But in this case, the idea behind it was to create a combination of a sweet taste with a strong sharpness to the palate. Bordering on spicy, but yet, clearly a sweet, summery dessert, this one is the quirky sum of its rather incongruous (yet supremely complementary) parts! A visually vibrant dessert is an infusion of 70% dark cocoa that has a bitter sweet taste mixed with pink peppercorns. It is further enhanced by the sweet and sour passion fruit curd and edible chocolate soil that completes it.
Chef Speak: “The inspiration behind this dessert was the pink peppercorn as an ingredient. It is versatile in nature and is vastly used in European and Mediterranean cuisine. But in this case, we wanted to experiment with it in a dessert course. The blending of ingredients that leads to a combination of sharpness and sweetness lends that ‘X Factor’ to the dessert.”
- Chef Anil J, executive chef, Razzberry Rhinoceros
Price: Rs 375
Available at: Razzberry Rhinoceros, Juhu

Wasabi Ice Cream Sandwich with Fried Nori Strips
Think of a typical K Rustom ice cream sandwich. Now, imagine it going to Japan and retuning back! Voila, you’ve decoded this sinus-busting dessert that is composed of a thick slab of piquant wasabi ice cream ensconced by two malt shortbreads and served up with crisp, fried nori seaweed sheets. Dripping (quite literally!) with nostalgia, this bordering-on-savoury dessert has done so well with diners since the restaurant opened two months ago, that the team is planning to add two more rather outré flavours; pan pasand and gulkand.
Chef Speak: “We wanted to make a modern dessert drawing inspiration from our childhood’s nostalgic elements. K Rustom ice cream sandwich has been part of our lives for the longest time. Hence, we came up with the idea of an ice cream sandwich. I have a background of oriental food and the (restaurant’s) owner Aditya and I thought of making a wasabi ice cream sandwich with nori strips.”
-Chef Sandeep Moktan, executive chef, Gymkhana 91
Price: Rs 235
Available at: Gymkhana 91, Lower Parel

Manila Halo Halo Sundae
This red kidney bean-redolent iteration of Halo Halo is an ode to the popular cold-savoury-sweet dessert that is served across The Philippines, from roadside stands to ritzy hotels. Dished out in a champagne coupe, the dessert combines shaved ice with condensed milk and generous piles of sweetened kidney beans, jellies, and rice crisps. The Halo Halo is a representation of a broader spectrum of other Southeast Asian desserts—like Cendol from Indonesia, Ais Kacang from Malaysia—where savoury element like cream corn, kidney beans, chestnuts are combined with shaved ice to which a sweet component that comes from either syrupy sweet condensed milk or rose syrup are added.
Chef Speak: “According to me, the best dessert that The Philippines has to offer is the Halo Halo. It’s a complete dessert snack with the perfect balance of sweet and savoury that’ll satisfy you till the very last bite. It’s an explosion of different flavours and texture, and is the perfect summer coolant for a hot summer day.”
-Chef Paul Kinny, culinary director, Shizusan Shophouse & Bar
Price: Rs 295
Available at: Shizusan Shophouse & Bar, Lower Parel

White Chocolate Parfait with Goat’s Cheese Ice Cream and Beetroot Sponge
This one’s the perfect example of one of those bizarre pairings that make you go, “What, really!?”, much like dark chocolate and chilly—another knockout combo, if there ever was one. But in this case, it is the smoothness of the white chocolate and the tartness of a goat’s cheese ice cream that work their magic together in this dessert. All this, ably supported by ‘supporting acts’ like microwave beetroot sponge and raspberry colie along with some dehydrated raspberries that finish off this culinary chimera.
Chef Speak: “Cheese and ice cream isn’t the most common combination, but the flavour harmony they create is unmatched. I like how it compliments certain dishes, like this one, when used in the right proportions—never too much, just a splash for subtle floral notes.”
- Chef Yogendra Adep, chef de cuisine, Luna Gusta at The St. Regis Mumbai
Price: Rs 650
Available at: Luna Gusta at The St. Regis Mumbai, Lower Parel

Basil Ice Cream with Olive Oil and Pine Nuts
The very idea of sitting down to a dessert of basil ice cream with olive oil and pine nuts may seem a bit nuts (do pardon the pun!) to most. But trust us when we say, that this pesto-esque ice cream is perhaps, the best rendition of olive oil used innovatively that we’ve seen in a very long time! Interestingly, the genesis of this rather outré dessert is a result of a spin-off of The Sassy Spoon’s very popular basil fondant with its gooey, herbaceous green core that has its own legion of sweet-toothed fans.
Chef Speak: “I used olive oil was because I was actually thinking along the lines of pesto and the ingredients that go into making a good pesto. Apart from the parmesan and garlic in a savoury pesto, I felt these flavours worked well together and the olive oil also gives a nice, smooth texture, with the pine nuts adding a lovely bite to the ice cream.”
-Chef Rachel Goenka, CEO/owner and chef, The Sassy Spoon
Price: Rs 100 per scoop
Available at: The Sassy Spoon at Nariman Point and Bandra

(A shorter, edited version of this article appeared in the 22nd April 2017 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India http://www.mid-day.com/articles/food-news-mumbai-restaurants-summer-desserts/18187189)