Sushi 2.0

Today, on International Sushi Day, we liberate all you sushi fans from the shackles of boring, old, run-of-the-mill iterations and introduce you to six of the most unusual and odd ball interpretations of sushi available in the city.

By Raul Dias

Prawns and Edamame Sushi Pizza
If there’s one aspect of sushi that’s truly remarkable, then that would have to be its ability to experiment with both ingredients and presentation styles. Take this innovative sushi pizza for example. Locally sourced prawns and that quintessential Japanese ingredient, edamame are combined with a honey, chilli and fresh mango sauce and shaped to resemble a slice of pizza. “Sushi and pizza are perhaps two the most loved comfort foods and there couldn’t have been a better occasion than International Sushi Day to celebrate the confluence of the two,” says Chef Paul Kinny, Culinary Director, Shizusan Shophouse & Bar.  
At Shizusan Shophouse & Bar, High Street Phoenix, Lower Parel.
Call 62373536
Cost Rs 375 (per slice)

BLT Sushi Sandwich
Pushing the boundary even further, this sushi variant gets a top score on the innovation charts! Taking the classic all-American bacon, lettuce and tomato sandwich and giving it a far eastern fillip as a sushi are the guys at The Fatty Bao. Here, bacon, lettuce and roasted tomato are layered in vinegared-rice and a nori sheet for the ultimate sushi sandwich hybrid. “This sandwich sushi is inspired by the onigirazu sushi, where sushi rice and nori sheets are used to make sandwich shapes with various fillings,” says Chef Prashanth, Executive Chef, The Fatty Bao.
At The Fatty Bao, G1, 108, Morya Classic, Off New Link Road, Andheri West.
Call 62366323/7738008460
Cost Rs 490 (4 pieces)

Tsu No Maki
Just when you thought you’d seen the last mango of the season, you see it well-represented in this totally wacky maki sushi. Joining the salmon-tuna protein duo are slivers of ripe mango and vinegar-sushi rice to make a quadrant shaped piece of sushi. And this is why it is named Tsu No Maki, because in Japanese “Tsu No” means four. “Classical sushi consists of seasonal ingredients prepared using the most sophisticated methods to bring out the best natural flavour of the dish. Where as in the case of innovative versions of sushi, we use local and seasonal ingredients like mango which are much appreciated by our guests,” says Chef Yogendra Adep, Chef De Cuisine, The St. Regis Mumbai
At Yuuka, Level 37, The St. Regis Mumbai, 462, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel West.
Call 61628422
Cost Rs 2,100 (8 pieces)

Gobo Nigiri
As one of Japanese cuisine’s most popular ingredients, the burdock root or gobo is a herb that not just detoxifies the blood, but it is also great for the lymphatic system and skin. Distilling the goodness of this ingredient that we very rarely see in Indian Japanese restaurants is Pa Pa Ya’s all veg Gobo Nigiri. Here, gobo root is combined with carrot, cucumber and avocado that are rolled in a nori sheet, resulting in a sweet, yet pungent sushi roll. “Gobo has a high percentage of irons and vitamins A and B. While creating the dish I wanted to keep the taste authentic as well as make it a healthier option for sushi with the further addition of carrots, cucumber and avocado,” says Chef Sahil Singh, Sr Executive Chef, Pa Pa Ya.
At Pa Pa Ya, Hotel Diplomat, B. K. Boman Behram Marg, Colaba.
Call 8451011174
Cost Rs 625 (8 pieces)

Battera Sushi with Salmon and Tuna
Very little is known about the Osaka-style pressed sushi called oshizushi. Introducing us, to not just this regional sushi speciality, but going one step further and topping it off with three very unusual ingredients—avocado tartare, capers and onion salsa is the Battera Sushi with salmon and tuna. “Battera sushi, that is moulded in a special wooden box, is both fun to eat and lovely to look at. And not to mention different from the usual monotony of rolled sushi, that one sees everywhere,” says Chef Vikram Khatri, Executive Chef, Hello Guppy.
At Hello Guppy, Ground Floor, Godrej-BKC, G-Block, BKC.
Call 26534720
Cost Rs 720 (8 pieces)

Mafia Roll
Never mind its rather intimidating name, this sushi roll is all about fun. How else can one explain the use of popping corn as one of its main ingredients? This uramaki (inside out) roll of corn tempura with piquillo peppers and gochujang mayonnaise that’s garnished with some popcorn and parsley has an interesting story behind its name. “The pop and bang of the Italian Mafia is carried forward into this sushi roll which has popping corn and fiery roasted piquillo peppers along with the bang of spicy gochujang mayonnaise,” says Chef Farrokh Khambata, Owner-Chef, Joss.
At Joss, Ground Floor, Savoy Chambers, Linking Road, Santacruz West.
Call 26617771
Cost Rs 850 (8 pieces)


Recipe for…
Sriracha Blush Maki Sushi

Ingredients:
15gm Avocado Cubes
15gm Cucumber Batons
10gm Shredded Carrot
15gm Jalapeño Tempura Fried
15gm Cream Cheese
10gm Black Sesame Seeds
120gm Sushi Rice (boiled)
30ml Sushi Vinegar
1 Nori Seaweed Sheet
10ml Sriracha Hot Chilli Sauce
10gm Tobanjan Paste
10gm Togarashi Japanese Spice Powder
10gm Kewpie Japanese Mayonnaise

Method:
* Place the nori sheet on a sushi mat and spread the cooked and vinegar-sprinkled sushi rice on it. Sprinkle togarashi and sesame seeds on top of the rice.
* Turn over the sheet. Put cream cheese, avocado, cucumber, carrot, fried jalapeño tempura in the centre of the sheet.
* Roll it tightly and cut into eight pieces and arrange on a platter.
* Drizzle with Kewpie mayonnaise mixed with tobanjan paste and dot with sriracha sauce.

--Recipe courtesy Chef Paul Kinny, Culinary Director, Shizusan Shophouse & Bar

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 18th June 2018 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 22 https://www.mid-day.com/articles/international-sushi-day-heres-six-unusual-picks-from-across-mumbais-eateries/19530158)

Vegxotica!

From bitter melon to taro and from purple sweet potato to fox nuts, a host of exotic vegetarian ingredients hope to change the oriental restaurant menu’s lexicon across the city in 2018

By Raul Dias

Hanoi Bitter Melon Shrimp Salad
As its name suggest, this Vietnamese-style salad on the menu at Shizusan is a melange of herbs, shrimps, carrot shavings, citrus nam plah, roasted peanuts and that one ingredient—bitter melon—that has an interesting back story. In Vietnamese homes, bitter melon is usually cooked at the start of their new year as a reminder of the bitter living conditions of the past. “This salad of ours is an ode to these festivities. Bitter melon is one of those underappreciated vegetables that take some time getting used to. Although the bitterness at times can get unbearable, it’s also unique while having medicinal benefits which can’t be overlooked,” says Chef Paul Kinny, culinary director, Bellona Hospitality.
At Shizusan, North Skyzone, High Street Phoenix, Lower Parel.
Call 7045004138
Cost Rs 365

Taro Tempura and Purple Potato Maki
This all-veg ura maki (inside-out maki roll) at Yuuka has a taro stuffing and is topped with a truffle-purple sweet potato mash, fried sweet potato and Thai red chilly. “There is a saying that learning and creating something new always makes you feel good. The same hold for the key ingredient of this dish—Taro! The tuber is believed to be one of the world’s earliest cultivated plants and has a tremendous health benefits associate with it,” believes Chef Himanshu Taneja, director of culinary, The St. Regis Mumbai.
At Yuuka at The St. Regis Mumbai, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel.
Call 8291926985/61628422
Cost Rs 1,600

Asparagus and Arugula Salad with Fox Nut
Served warm, this asparagus and arugula salad at Hello Guppy sees the very exotic fox nut sprinkled over it along with grilled asparagus, all jazzed up with a wafu dressing. The addition of the fox nut is in keeping with the Japanese concept of yakuzen, or medicinal cooking. “Fox nuts are great examples of this medicinal aspect, as they act as an aphrodisiac, along with being low in cholesterol, fat and sodium. They are also gluten-free and add the perfect crunch to this salad,” says head chef, Vikram Khatri.
At Hello Guppy, Ground Floor, Godrej-BKC, G-Block, BKC.
Call 26534720/7777049773
Cost Rs 249

Chilean Sea Bass with Blue Pea Pod Rice
This sea bass dish, at the new Thai-Robata restaurant Izaya, that heroes its brilliantly blue rice component, is a hearty serving of chunks of Chilean sea bass on a bed of jasmine rice coloured blue with the blue pea pod. This pod, that’s native to Thailand, has the unique characteristic of changing colour when any form of acid is added to it. “The reasons we use the blue pea is the appeal it brings to the dish, whilst keeping the flavour neutral. It is also one of those rare natural ingredients that imparts a blue tint. The inspiration for this exotic ingredient came from our trip to Thailand where the pod is used in colouring drinks such as iced teas and sodas,” says chef and owner, Farrokh Khambata.
At Izaya, NCPA, Gate No. 2, Nariman Point.
Call 22821212
Cost Rs 2,500

Crispy Taro Veg Spring Roll
Part of a dim sum trio that includes a black truffle dumpling and a veg dumpling, this spring roll at Dashanzi is prepared with gently rolled out wheat flour wrappers that are filled in with a blend of crunchy shredded vegetables along with steamed and mashed taro root, then sautéed in soy sauce. “Taro, a tropical vegetable which is high in fibre, is known to soak up flavours. Thus, it easily marinates, absorbing the peppery-tangy flavour of the pickled filling. The root ingredient plays an important role in delicacies that are traditionally eaten during the Chinese New Year celebrations,” says Cheang Chee Leong, chef de cuisine.
At Dashanzi, JW Marriott Mumbai Juhu, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu.
Call 66933344
Cost Rs 995

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 19th February 2018 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 23 https://www.mid-day.com/articles/mumbai-food-exotic-asian-veggies-now-making-way-to-restaurant-menus/19087160)

Out of the Blue!

Imparting a brilliant blue hue to everything it comes in contact with, the butterfly pea flower from. Thailand finds a firm place for itself on the menus of restaurants and bars across the city

By Raul Dias

While chemistry might not have been everybody’s cup of tea in school (it certainly wasn’t ours), it’s sure proving to be everybody’s ‘cup of cocktail’ these days. Quite literally! Enter the brilliantly blue hued butterfly pea flower from Thailand with its amazing chameleon-like colour changing properties, turning purple when it comes in contact with lime juice.
“This unique flower with its colour changing property makes it the perfect addition to a good-looking drink without using any artificial colour,” says Ami Shroff, mixologist at London Taxi, one of the recent places that have cottoned onto this trend that we’re seeing gaining popularity over the last six months or so.
To get a little geeky on you, this flower of the clitoria ternatea plant when steeped in water has been a perennial favourite herbal tea in many South Asian countries and particularly Thailand for centuries where it is known as nam dok anchan. It’s also renowned for its health benefits taking care of everything from conjunctivitis to enhancing memory and brain power.
“Our mixologists focus heavily on local ingredients from Southeast Asia”, says Tanai Shirali -Director Operations Bellona Hospitality, the guys behind the popular Shizusan Shophouse & Bar and avid users of the butterfly pea flower. “It isn’t sweet and syrupy and has an earthier woody taste like the regular green tea. However, most people like their cocktails a little sweet so the addition on the citrusy lime not only changes the colour but when mixed with palm sugar gives the cocktail the required sweet note.”
At the newly opened Nara Thai restaurant, the flower features prominently on the both the food and drinks menus. “The butterfly pea flower is a very neutral ingredient as it doesn’t have any strong flavour of its own and doesn’t influence the flavour profile of the drink or dish. It imparts a different colour depending on the citrus level of the dish/drink. One can experiment with the colours at the same time make sure that the flavour doesn’t get affected”, says Karyna Bajaj Executive Director KA Hospitality, the group that has got Nara Thai to India.

Here’s a glimpse at the many ways the flower finds itself ‘adorning’ drinks and dishes across Mumbai:

Butterfly Pea Sour
A refreshing iteration of a classic Peruvian pisco sour, this cocktail at the just opened Nara Thai pushes the creative envelope a whole lot further. Made just like a standard pisco sour, with pisco, lime juice and sugar syrup, this one is enhanced with a tea made with butter fly pea flowers and is anointed with the obligatory cloud of foamed egg white and a dried butterfly pea flower as a garnish.
At Nara Thai, Ground Floor, Raheja Towers, BKC
Call 61378080
Cost Rs 600

Hattori Hanzo
The cocktail menu at Shizusan Shophouse & Bar focuses on classic cocktails with an Asian twist using lesser-used ingredients like oolong tea, and, in this case, butterfly pea flowers. A mélange of tequila, butterfly pea flower tea, lime the cocktail is named after the warrior/monk Hattori Hanzo. When made with precision, the drink changes colour and is an apt toast to celebrate Hattori Hanzo’s dual life.
At Shizusan, Skyzone, Highstreet Phoenix, Lower Parel
Call 7045004138
Cost Rs 575

Blue Chamomile G&T
Another riff on a tired and tested cocktail—this time the G&T—is the blue chamomile G&T at the brand new restobar London Taxi. Here, the gin is infused with dried butterfly pea flowers and chamomile and kept very simple with the addition of lime juice and tonic water.
At London Taxi, Kamala Mills, A-Wing, Trade World, Lower Parel
Call 9029990454
Cost Rs 725

Not Just in Drinks...

Khao Phad Samunprai (Butterfly Pea Flower Rice)
Never mind its tongue-twister of a name, this super novel rice preparation is proof that the use of the
butterfly pea flower needn’t be limited to drinks only! At first luridly blue, this rice that’s made with short grain Thai rice, kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass and white soy sauce, takes on a shocking purple hue when one squeezes a bit of lime juice over it.
At Nara Thai, Ground Floor, Raheja Towers, BKC
Call 61378080
Cost Rs 250

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 11th September 2017 issue of the evening edition of Mid-Day newspaper, India)

Desi Makeovers!

From the ubiquitous curry leaf and spicy cumin seed to the piquant burst of pani puri masala and zesty shikanji, cocktails around Mumbai are imbuing themselves with all things deliciously desi with a vengeance these days!   

By Raul Dias

MMS (Monkey Masala Soda)
Monkey Bar is a well-known destination for its unconventional cocktails that junk all the rules and strike off the sugary sweet concoctions—replacing them with a host of original, hugely trendy drinks. For the MMS, kaffir lime is muddled with vodka and a house made masala soda, making for a super refreshing, simple and smooth cocktail.  “It’s no longer about regular cocktails but a whole new spin, where innovation and freshness are firmly at the forefront,” says Nakul Chandra, Brand Head, Monkey Bar.
At Summerville, 14th & 33rd Road, Ground Floor, Linking Road, Bandra West
Call 26005215
Cost Rs 320

Pani Puri Margarita
​The piquant sum of its homemade pani puri water, tequila, triple sec and citrus mix, the pani puri margarita is an ode to Mumbai’s die-hard love affair with the street food staple! “My mother’s pani puri was something I always loved as a kid. One day, it was there for dinner and I had some tequila around so I decided to experiment and it was a match made in heaven. It’s more like mother’s love mixed with my favourite spirit—tequila. Best of both worlds,” says Pranav Mody, Manager and Mixologist, The Sassy Spoon Nariman Point.
At The Sassy Spoon Nariman Point, Ground Floor, Express Towers, Nariman Point
Call 9920003500
Cost Rs 490

Roadside Mule
Tamarind and dates and all the other ingredients—like house tamarind sauce, curry leaves, cumin, ginger, ginger ale—in this cocktail are inspired by the taste of the Indian street chaat which is put together to balance the flavour of the gin and the colour of the drink. “Tamarind and dates were added to the drink to remind the drinker of Indian street food. These also lend a certain freshness to cocktail that is a take on the Moscow Mule but with the Theory magic,” says Emma Pereira, Mixologist, Theory.
At Theory, Unit 1 C Wing, Trade World, Kamala Mills, Lower Parel
Call 66666506
Cost Rs 850

Thai-quilla
‘Same-same, but different’ is an oft-heard phrase when in Thailand and the Thai-quilla cocktail is like a drinkable version of this oxymoronic saying! This Indo-Thai mélange is an amalgamation of kokum and everyone’s favourite tipple tequila, along with Thai basil and fresh lime. “Kokum also known as Indian mangosteen lends a distinct sour element that blends exceptionally well with tequila. The basil adds a Thai twist that helps the cocktail suit our restaurant’s Asian flavours philosophy,” says Farrokh Khambata, Chef and Owner, Umame.
At 1st floor, Cambata Building, Next to Eros Theatre, Churchgate
Call 61110303
Cost Rs 550

China to Kolkata
Part of the special ‘Monsoon Cocktail’ menu at Shizusan Shophouse & Bar, this cocktail is another love child of fusion! The cocktail uses peaches which are native to Northwest China and gondhoraj which literally translates to ‘king of aromas’ and is Bengal’s best kept secret ingredient. “A hybrid of mandarin orange and common lime, gondhoraj is fruitier, crisper and sharper than the regular nimbu—giving the cocktail a more distinct taste that’ll transport you to the quaint streets of Kolkata. You could say, this one’s our take on the classic Peach Margarita,” says Tanai Shirali, Director of Operations, Shizusan.
At Shizusan, Skyzone, Highstreet Phoenix, Lower Parel
Call 7045004138
Cost Rs 525

Shikanji Sour
​An Indian spin on the Whiskey Sour, this cocktail is exciting from the word go. It is a mix of Bourbon, homemade shikanji (North Indian-style limeade) puree, sweet and sour mix, rose syrup, rose water and egg white. All this is garnished with some rosemary. “Indians love shikanji and most of them love whiskey. I wanted to blend two strong yet complimenting flavours that add a natural woodyness and sweetness altogether. Shikanji adds a great fragrance as well, especially when garnished with rosemary,” says Taufeeq Shaikh, Bartender, Estella.
At Nichani Kutir, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu
Call 7999998232/7999998212
Cost Rs 625

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 7th August 2017 issue of the evening edition of Mid-Day newspaper, India http://www.mid-day.com/articles/mumabi-food-six-mumbai-bars-desi-cocktails-twist-lifestyle/18487185)

Bowled Over!

Perfect for tucking into on a rainy day, we bring you a serving of a few all-inclusive meals-in-bowls offering exotic treats with everything from black noodles to Chinese fungus to suit your many monsoon moods  

By Raul Dias

Stay indoors and make take-away Tuesdays fun with…
Fatty Pho Ramen
A hearty and substantial meal, this ramen is the sum of its aromatic chicken broth, smoked chicken, ginger, fried onions, scallions and soft-boiled egg parts. Giving it a bizarre countenance and exotic appeal is the coil of black noodles that gets its hue from charred eggplant powder!
At The Fatty Bao, Oasis Complex, Kamala Mills, Lower Parel
Call 62371500
Cost Rs 425

The ultimate romantic meal for two…
Asian Poké Bowl
This cooked take on poké—the raw fish meal-in-a-bowl from Hawaii—is made up of a starchy base in the form of steamed jasmine rice. Onto this, fresh organic vegetables like avocados, green onions, coloured peppers and cucumbers are layered along with nuts. All this is topped off with either lamb meat or vegetable balls.
At Jeon, Hotel Sea Princess, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu
Call 26469500
Cost Rs 599

Craving some Asian comfort food? Then chow down on…
Taiwanese Aromatic Miso Milk Bowl
Claiming to be the Asian restaurant’s signature dish, this milky-looking broth is made up of udon noodles, tofu and the very wacky, if a tad slimy wakame seaweed. Though Taiwanese in origin, as the cuisine is strongly influenced by the food from China and Japan, this miso broth references by neighbouring countries’ flavours, hence the wakame and udon.
At Shizusan, Skyzone, Highstreet Phoenix, Lower Parel
Call 7045004138
Cost Rs 295

Curl up in bed with your favourite book and a bowl of...
Monsoon Bone Broth
Comfort food at its best and great for that lazy, rainy day, this bowl too uses udon noodles as its base. This along with smoked chicken stock, shredded chicken, sweet corn, mushroom, coriander and Malaysian sambal give it a great depth of flavour, while the rather outré Chinese black fungus lends to it an amazing bite.
At Toast & Tonic, Ground Floor, Jet Airways-Godrej Building, ​​BKC, Bandra East
Call 26534722/7777049774
Cost Rs 295

Perfect for those ‘no carbs’ Fridays…
Mediterranean Veg Bowl
Not only is this one vegetarian friendly, but it is also a zero-carb meal-in-a-bowl. Here, a blushing pink beet hummus meets a chickpea tabbouleh along with pickled vegetables and falafel. This then gets doused with lashings of sour cream and it’s ready to chow down. All guilt-free, of course!
At Theory, Kamala Mills, Lower Parel
Call 66666506
Cost Rs 415

For that yummy rainy-day fusion twist, try the…
Maggi Et Al
Can’t get your fill of fusion? Then this bowl is the one for you. Combining the flavours of India’s favourite noodle snack—Maggi and Mumbai’s street food staple pav bhaji is this one. Served up yin-yang style with the noodles on one side of the bow and the bright red bhaji on the other, this colourful meal is sure to cast all those grey monsoon blues away…
At Door No. 1, Ankleshwar, ONGC Colony, Bandra West
Call 65355355
Cost Rs 191

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 11th July 2017 issue of Mid-Day newspaper, India http://www.mid-day.com/articles/mumbai-food-six-meals-in-bowls-to-suit-your-monsoon-moods-guide/18411164)

Restaurant Review: Shizusan, Mumbai

(Published in the July 2017 issue of The Week's The Man magazine)

Who put the savoury in my dessert?

From kidney beans and goat’s cheese to olive oil as dessert ingredients—and a whole lot more in between—restaurants around the city are pushing the envelope as far as their new summer desserts are concerned, with many that seemed to have merrily skipped off the savoury menu onto the desserts’ one!

By Raul Dias

Pink Peppercorn Mousse with Passion Fruit Curd
Now, usually desserts end on a sweet note. But in this case, the idea behind it was to create a combination of a sweet taste with a strong sharpness to the palate. Bordering on spicy, but yet, clearly a sweet, summery dessert, this one is the quirky sum of its rather incongruous (yet supremely complementary) parts! A visually vibrant dessert is an infusion of 70% dark cocoa that has a bitter sweet taste mixed with pink peppercorns. It is further enhanced by the sweet and sour passion fruit curd and edible chocolate soil that completes it.
Chef Speak: “The inspiration behind this dessert was the pink peppercorn as an ingredient. It is versatile in nature and is vastly used in European and Mediterranean cuisine. But in this case, we wanted to experiment with it in a dessert course. The blending of ingredients that leads to a combination of sharpness and sweetness lends that ‘X Factor’ to the dessert.”
- Chef Anil J, executive chef, Razzberry Rhinoceros
Price: Rs 375
Available at: Razzberry Rhinoceros, Juhu

Wasabi Ice Cream Sandwich with Fried Nori Strips
Think of a typical K Rustom ice cream sandwich. Now, imagine it going to Japan and retuning back! Voila, you’ve decoded this sinus-busting dessert that is composed of a thick slab of piquant wasabi ice cream ensconced by two malt shortbreads and served up with crisp, fried nori seaweed sheets. Dripping (quite literally!) with nostalgia, this bordering-on-savoury dessert has done so well with diners since the restaurant opened two months ago, that the team is planning to add two more rather outré flavours; pan pasand and gulkand.
Chef Speak: “We wanted to make a modern dessert drawing inspiration from our childhood’s nostalgic elements. K Rustom ice cream sandwich has been part of our lives for the longest time. Hence, we came up with the idea of an ice cream sandwich. I have a background of oriental food and the (restaurant’s) owner Aditya and I thought of making a wasabi ice cream sandwich with nori strips.”
-Chef Sandeep Moktan, executive chef, Gymkhana 91
Price: Rs 235
Available at: Gymkhana 91, Lower Parel

Manila Halo Halo Sundae
This red kidney bean-redolent iteration of Halo Halo is an ode to the popular cold-savoury-sweet dessert that is served across The Philippines, from roadside stands to ritzy hotels. Dished out in a champagne coupe, the dessert combines shaved ice with condensed milk and generous piles of sweetened kidney beans, jellies, and rice crisps. The Halo Halo is a representation of a broader spectrum of other Southeast Asian desserts—like Cendol from Indonesia, Ais Kacang from Malaysia—where savoury element like cream corn, kidney beans, chestnuts are combined with shaved ice to which a sweet component that comes from either syrupy sweet condensed milk or rose syrup are added.
Chef Speak: “According to me, the best dessert that The Philippines has to offer is the Halo Halo. It’s a complete dessert snack with the perfect balance of sweet and savoury that’ll satisfy you till the very last bite. It’s an explosion of different flavours and texture, and is the perfect summer coolant for a hot summer day.”
-Chef Paul Kinny, culinary director, Shizusan Shophouse & Bar
Price: Rs 295
Available at: Shizusan Shophouse & Bar, Lower Parel

White Chocolate Parfait with Goat’s Cheese Ice Cream and Beetroot Sponge
This one’s the perfect example of one of those bizarre pairings that make you go, “What, really!?”, much like dark chocolate and chilly—another knockout combo, if there ever was one. But in this case, it is the smoothness of the white chocolate and the tartness of a goat’s cheese ice cream that work their magic together in this dessert. All this, ably supported by ‘supporting acts’ like microwave beetroot sponge and raspberry colie along with some dehydrated raspberries that finish off this culinary chimera.
Chef Speak: “Cheese and ice cream isn’t the most common combination, but the flavour harmony they create is unmatched. I like how it compliments certain dishes, like this one, when used in the right proportions—never too much, just a splash for subtle floral notes.”
- Chef Yogendra Adep, chef de cuisine, Luna Gusta at The St. Regis Mumbai
Price: Rs 650
Available at: Luna Gusta at The St. Regis Mumbai, Lower Parel

Basil Ice Cream with Olive Oil and Pine Nuts
The very idea of sitting down to a dessert of basil ice cream with olive oil and pine nuts may seem a bit nuts (do pardon the pun!) to most. But trust us when we say, that this pesto-esque ice cream is perhaps, the best rendition of olive oil used innovatively that we’ve seen in a very long time! Interestingly, the genesis of this rather outré dessert is a result of a spin-off of The Sassy Spoon’s very popular basil fondant with its gooey, herbaceous green core that has its own legion of sweet-toothed fans.
Chef Speak: “I used olive oil was because I was actually thinking along the lines of pesto and the ingredients that go into making a good pesto. Apart from the parmesan and garlic in a savoury pesto, I felt these flavours worked well together and the olive oil also gives a nice, smooth texture, with the pine nuts adding a lovely bite to the ice cream.”
-Chef Rachel Goenka, CEO/owner and chef, The Sassy Spoon
Price: Rs 100 per scoop
Available at: The Sassy Spoon at Nariman Point and Bandra

(A shorter, edited version of this article appeared in the 22nd April 2017 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India http://www.mid-day.com/articles/food-news-mumbai-restaurants-summer-desserts/18187189)

The Lure of Lavender

It’s literally raining purple with a range of lavender-infused desserts and goodies at restaurants and patisseries across the country that pay homage to the delicately perfumed flower and its gorgeously vibrant hue!

By Raul Dias

Is it a flower? Is it a herb? While there is enough conjecture about the botanical underpinnings of lavender, one thing is for certain, this season, it has crept into a host of desserts and goodies at restaurant and patisseries across the country. Places that are celebrating the purple-hued flower (we’ll just leave it at that!) in myriad ways. And why not? Being particularly compatible with the dessert-friendly flavours of honey and lemon, lavender is a perfect springtime flower to brighten up—not just a table—but also what’s served atop one!
Here’s a list of a few such preparations that are imbued with that heady dose of the flower’s power:     

Lavender and Blueberry Viennese Shortbread with Rose Petal Panna Cotta at Estella, Mumbai
This rather delicate confection is an intricate construction of two lavender-flavoured shortbread fingers sandwiching whipped cream and blueberry jam, and topped with more cream and jam, with a sprig of lavender and rosemary as the garnish. Accompanying this, is a wobbly panna cotta that does a jig, not just on the platter, but on your palate as well.   

Lavender Panna Cotta at Latest Recipe, Le Meridien Gurgaon, NCR
In this iteration, the actual panna cotta—that simply translates from Italian into English as “baked milk”—is the creation of the hotel’s Executive Pastry Chef Anil Kumar, who was inspired by the refreshing and delicate lavender flavour. The fact that this flavour has to be used just in the right amount for its effect to show up and can only be infused with cream, got him excited to try it in this panna cotta. And what a sublime creation that turned out to be!

Lavender Macarons at Cocoatease, Mumbai
Riding high on the crest of the macaron wave are these crispy, chewy, French macarons filled with a lavender-infused Swiss meringue buttercream. According to Manju Hemrajani, Co-owner, Cocoatease, people in India are slowly and steadily getting accustomed to and have started understanding the subtlety of flavours, because lavender is an acquired taste and needs to be used with caution. If used in excess, it makes the product taste bitter and pretty much inedible. But there’s no fear of that happening in the case of these delectable morsels of heaven! 

Lavender and Bitter Chocolate Bon Bon at The Oberoi Patisserie & Delicatessen, The Oberoi Gurgaon, NCR
Chef Gagan Rahi, Sous Chef (pastry) has used luxurious Valrhona chocolate and lavender flowers to create these chocolate bon bons. The bitter sweetness of the lavender flowers lends a sweet pungent after-taste to the chocolate and pairs beautifully with the intense chocolate-y notes for a well-balanced pairing.

Almond and Lavender Latte with Lavender and Lemon Cookie Crumble at The Korner House, Mumbai
As the only lavender-infused drink on this list, the latte is a creamy, rich, vegan almond and lavender blended latte topped with dairy free cream and lavender oatmeal cookie crumble. According to its creator Chef Vicky Ratnani, the reason behind its genesis is simple: Veganism is growing rapidly and people like to have nut milks. And so, the idea of doing an almond milk and lavender latte was not just au courant, but unique as well. We couldn’t agree more!

Japanese Lavender Cheesecake at Bodega Cantina-Y-Bar, Kolkata
So obsessed is this Park Street, Kolkata restobar with lavender that they’ve come up with a very unique dessert using the flower! The Japanese Lavender Cheesecake is created by ace Mumbai pastry chef Sanjana Patel and is made up of a deconstructed cheesecake that comes with lavender lemon gel and lavender flavoured ice-cream. The ode to lavender is thanks to the restobar’s Chef and Co-founder Urvika Kanoi​’s​ chef ​school address in London which had a beautiful garden on the opposite side which would bloom in summers.

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Halo Halo Sundae with Lavender Ice-cream at Shizusan, Mumbai
Shizusan—Mumbai’s newest Pan-Asian restaurant too seems to be enamoured by the lure of lavender. In the Halo Halo Sundae, the classic sundae from the Philippines sees the traditional purple ube yam ice-cream scoop being substituted by the floral hit of the lavender ice-cream that goes on to get combined with shaved ice, condensed milk and generous piles of sweet beans, jellies, and rice crisps in a glass. ‘nuff said! ​  

(A shorter, edited version of this piece was first published in the April, 2017 issue of The Week's Smart Life magazine)

Purple Rain—Perfect Lavender Cocktails for Spring!

By Raul Dias

Paired with everything from the rather neutral vodka and gin to a more robustly flavoured red wine, and muddled with other fragrant botanicals like hibiscus and elderflower, the sweetly perfumed lavender blossom is enjoying a turn at several restaurants and bars across the country, making a lavender cocktail the perfect springtime tipple. We bring you a serving of a few such iterations that exude lavender with every sip!  

MON CHERI
Imbued with an experimental streak when it comes to his bar, Pranav Mody the restaurant’s manager and mixologist, sends off this rather exotic looking, deep purple-hued cocktail with a generous pour of house-infused lavender-hibiscus vodka, and vanilla, along with a splash of orange liqueur and citrus mix. Adorned with a marigold flower to offset the colour, the drink is the ultimate ode to flower power.
The Sassy Spoon (Nariman Point outlet), Mumbai. Rs600

LAVENDER ORCHID
As the signature cocktail of the award winning Mediterranean restaurant and bar, this lavender cocktail—that’s the creation of Olive’s bar manager R. Dhanendran—is the refreshing sum of its Grey Goose vodka, lychee, pomegranate and lavender parts. Perfect for spring, the cocktail sees fresh lychee and pomegranate muddled together and then shaken with vodka, house-made lavender syrup, fresh lime juice and ice cubes and served in a cocktail glass with an orchid as a garnish.
Olive Beach, Bengaluru. Rs650

LAVENDER DOLL
Even Mumbai’s newest Pan-Asian restaurant seems to be caught up in the lavender maelstrom. Not only is their lavender ice-cream the most in-demand dessert, they say, but another lavender-based creation is surging up the popularity charts as well. Imagined by beverage and cocktail developer Tanai Shirali, this cocktail is made with vodka, sparkling wine and lavender and wild flowers’ extract, with the lavender’s perfume lending a beautiful, sweet-scented complexity to this libation that’s stylishly served up in a champagne flute!   
Shizusan, Mumbai. Rs625 ​ 

15 BLOOMSBURY
Drawing inspiration from their bestselling Japanese-style deconstructed lavender cheesecake, this Park Street, Kolkata restobar has now come up with a liquid homage to the springtime blossom. A potent blend of homemade flower bitters, gin, tonic with a strong hit of lavender flowers​, this cocktail is named 15 Bloomsbury, in memory of the chef and co-founder Urvika Kanoi​’s​ chef ​school address in London, which had a beautiful lavender garden that would bloom in springtime.
Bodega Cantina-Y-Bar, Kolkata. Rs295

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FLORAL SANGRIA
Taking a rather bold detour from the de rigueur pairing of lavender with vodka or gin, Ema Pereira, head mixologist ‘consciously couples’ a deep garnet red wine with dried lavender blossoms for her floral version of the wine cocktail. Served up in a gin and tonic coupe, bits of muddled apple, a sprig of thyme, and fresh jasmine flowers top it off.
Theory, Mumbai. Rs550

GREEN TEA & LAVENDER MARTINI
A rather subtle mélange of decidedly Eurasian flavours, this martini is made using a special in-house green tea and lemongrass infusion, with thyme and lavender added to accentuate the herbaceous, floral notes. A splash of vodka (in lieu of gin) and lemon juice finishes it off. And just like its sangria counterpart, this martini is jazzed up with the Theory signature garnish of fresh jasmine buds and a few sprigs of thyme.
Theory, Mumbai. Rs860

(A shorter, edited version of this article appeared in the 25th February 2017 issue of the Mint Lounge newspaper, India http://www.livemint.com/Leisure/pkGcW8z5s4q0ZGThYCkXaJ/RoundUp-Lust-for-lavender.html)