Asia's Wonderful DIY Dishes

 

This article first appeared in print and online on 14th July in the Sunday Magazine section of The New Indian Express newspaper https://www.newindianexpress.com/lifestyle/food/2024/Jul/13/diy-on-asian-griddles

Sakura Season Treats of Japan

 

(This article first appeared online on 20th March 2024 on Live Mint, India https://lifestyle.livemint.com/food/discover/japan-sakura-season-foods-mochi-bento-box-111710855868529.html)

Japan's Culture Kare

 

(This story first appeared in the 24th February 2024 issue of The New Indian Express newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 8 and online here 

https://www.newindianexpress.com/lifestyle/food/2024/Feb/24/japans-culture-kare)

Miso In Desserts and Cocktails

 

(This article first appeared online on 27th September 2023 in Mint Lounge, India and in print on page 14 on 28th September https://lifestyle.livemint.com/food/discover/miso-dessert-cake-cookies-cocktails-111695748993558.html)

Japanese Cuisine: More than Sushi and Ramen

 

(This article first appeared online on 16th August 2023 in Mint Lounge, India https://lifestyle.livemint.com/food/discover/food-guide-japan-111692099238663.html)

Asia's Love Affair with Sweet Bean Preparations

 

(This article first appeared online on 28th June and in print on 29th June 2023 in Mint Lounge, India https://lifestyle.livemint.com/food/discover/sweet-beans-sweets-desserts-japan-china-thailand-111687922027909.html)

Seaweed In Indian Cuisine

 

(This article first appeared online on 20th January 2023 and then in print in the 29th January 2023 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 8 https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/food/seaweed-is-the-latest-superfood-spicing-up-indian-fine-dining-in-dishes-from-soups-and-salads-to-jhaal-muri-and-cocktails/article66324086.ece)

Indian-inspired dishes around the world

 

(This article first appeared in online on January 2023 in The Hindu newspaper https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/food/indians-love-chicken-tikka-masala-the-made-in-britain-curry-what-about-katsu-curry-from-tokyo-and-buss-up-shut-from-trinidad-and-tobago/article66368560.ece)

Small bites, big flavours: Taste Test of Mayouchi

 

(This review appeared in 6th April 2022 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 23 https://www.mid-day.com/mumbai-guide/mumbai-food/article/small-bites-big-flavours-23221682)

5 Dangerous Foods We Dare You To Try

 

(This article first appeared online on 5th January 2022 on ZeeZest https://zeezest.com/food/5-most-dangerous-foods-we-dare-you-to-try-1171 )

Super Bowl: 6 of Mumbai's best meal-in-one power bowls

 

(This article first appeared online on 5th October 2021 on ZeeZest https://zeezest.com/food/6-places-to-order-healthy-meal-in-bowls-954)

Around the World in Savoury Cakes

(This article first appeared in the 7th September 2021 issue of Business Line newspaper's BLink section online https://www.thehindubusinessline.com/blink/takeaway/savoury-cake-connection/article36331869.ece)

5 food museums around the world

 

 (This article first appeared online on 3rd August 2021 on ZeeZest https://zeezest.com/food/5-food-museums-around-the-world-803 )

On a Roll

 

(This article appeared in the 18th June 2021 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 17 https://www.mid-day.com/mumbai-guide/mumbai-food/article/on-a-roll-23178780 )

Raw Beauties!

Showing us that there’s a whole lot more to raw fish dishes than plain old Japanese sashimi are a host of interesting and exotic preparations from as far as Peru to the Philippines. Smart Life introduces you to a few such edible wonders.  

By Raul Dias

It’s safe to say that most of the world’s love affair with raw fish is rather recent. And one that is in its embryonic stages as far the average Indian diner is concerned. Once looked upon as freakishly alien and best left to where it belonged, the raw fish wonder that is Japanese sashimi has ensnared the entire world with its fresh, clean taste and healthy diet appeal. 

Today, sushi bars are an ubiquitous site the world over, with patrons hungry for a piece of that freshly sliced amberjack or for a portion of those gossamer thin slivers of yellowfin tuna—all anointed with a dab of wasabi and a splash of shoyu (soy sauce). And while smoked salmon too has made its way around the world via Scandinavia in the form of gravlax and New York (where it is known as lox), our notion of raw fish preparations is still woefully confined to the above-mentioned two. Not anymore! 

Digging a little deeper into the vast sphere of world cuisine shows us the existence of a whole smorgasbord (pun intended!) of raw fish dish iterations from a diverse number of places that have been enjoyed for centuries in various forms and styles.

Here are a few such raw revelations: 

Poké from Hawaii

Pronounced poh-kay and meaning to “cut crosswise into pieces” this supremely healthy and tasty one bowl Hawaiian origin dish is a very simple preparation that sees short grain sushi rice that has been pre-vinegared as the base. This rice is then topped with diced raw fish and other seafood that can range from salmon and tuna to octopus and sea urchin. A splash of soy, a squirt of Japanese mayonnaise, a dusting of the Japanese spice blend called furikake, sesame seeds and dried flakes of nori (seaweed) finish off this dish that is criminally addictive and clean tasting. Interestingly, very similar to poké is the Korean dish called hoedeopbap that consists of marinated raw tuna served over rice.

Ceviche from Peru

Over the last decade or so the popularity of this paradoxically raw, yet ‘cooked’ fish dish from Peru has reached dizzying heights. This seemingly simple dish is a complex preparation made from fresh raw fish cured in citrus juices, such as lemon or lime, and spiced with ají chillies and other seasonings including chopped onions, salt, and coriander. It is the all-important citrus that cooks the fish, turning its translucent flesh into a milky opaque. Ceviche is usually accompanied by side dishes that complement its flavours such as sweet potato, lettuce, roasted corn kernels called cancha and the current hipster chic craze—avocado!

Kokoda from Fiji

Coming to us straight from the swaying coconut trees and cool waters of the lush Fijian islands, this raw fish dish celebrates two of the island’s greatest resources—coconuts and its abundant seafood. Pronounced ko-kon-da, kokoda is a refreshing salad-appetizer that’s perfect after a day swimming the cerulean ocean. Just like a ceviche, cubed white fish like snapper, walu or mahi mahi is first marinated in a citrus mixture so that it cures and cooks and then a splash of cooling coconut cream is added to give the dish its creamy consistency. Diced tomatoes and a few fronds of coriander finish off this dish that is always served in a hollowed-out coconut shell.  

Crudo and Carpaccio from Italy

Literally meaning ‘crude’ or ‘raw’ in Italian, crudo is a super popular and versatile raw fish dish from Italy that can be anything from slices of raw fish drizzled over with olive oil and seasoning, to a chopped version just like a steak tartare that’s always topped with an egg yolk. Similarly, fish carpaccio is the pescatarian version of the thinly sliced raw beef dish of the same name that was invented in 1950 by Giuseppe Cipriani, founder of Harry’s Bar in Venice and named in honour of Vittore Carpaccio, the Venetian painter known for his characteristic red and white tones.  

Yusheng from China

Literally meaning “raw fish” the dish is basically a Cantonese-style raw fish salad consisting of strips of raw fish mixed with shredded vegetables and a variety of sauces and condiments, among other ingredients. Also known as the “prosperity toss”, yusheng has been a Cantonese favourite for decades with the most common form being the qicai yusheng (seven-coloured raw fish salad) served in local restaurants during the Chinese New Year period. And although versions of it are thought to have existed in ancient China, the contemporary version was created and popularised in the 1960s.

Kinilaw from the Philippines

An interesting raw fish dish that is closely related to not one but two dishes on this list, kinilaw from the Philippines borrows elements from both a ceviche and a kokoda. Hailing from the Visayan region of the archipelago, the name kinilaw is derived from the word, “kilaw”, which means raw or uncooked. Just like a ceviche, the seafood is ‘cooked’ without the application of heat but is rather cured in vinegar. Additional souring agents like the native calamansi (a lime-orange like fruit), tamarind, or green mangoes are added to enhance its tartness. To complete the dish, black pepper, onions, ginger, seaweed and sliced chilies are also added. And in some parts of the country, just like a kokoda, a dash of coconut milk or cream is added to give the dish a creamy, sweetish send-off! 

(A differently edited version of this piece was first published in the November 2020 issue of The Week's Smart Life magazine)

Desi Flavours

(An edited version of this column first appeared in the 28th July 2019 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Weekend section on page 3 https://www.freepressjournal.in/weekend/india-inspired-iconic-dishes-from-across-the-globe)

Soy Story!

The close-to-authentic flavours and generous portions of some very affordable Pan Asian food more than make up for the rather dull, uninspiring ambience at this brand new Bandra eatery.

By Raul Dias

Here’s a fair warning for those of us who suffer from even the mildest form of claustrophobia. Take a deep breath before you enter this hole-in-the-wall Pan Asian restaurant that sits tightly wedged between a hair salon and a patisserie on Bandra West’s bustling Pali Naka road. Ignore the four-table setup in the open-air courtyard and descend into its bowels to the tiny, basement level dining room where you will find yourself sitting almost elbow-to-elbow with other diners. And don’t forget to keep the conversation PG13. For at Soy Pan Asian Kitchen, everyone can hear every single stray word spoken…and even the odd one whispered! 
But for us, what spoke the loudest of all was the food on offer. Not once missing the acute lack of any decent liquid sustenance on the menu (barring the ubiquitous canned cola and ginger ale offerings) we dove straight into the savoury section. Cosily ensconced in a bamboo steamer basket, our six, hefty pork dumplings (Rs 290) were each a juicy burst of umami goodness with the perfect dough to filling ratio. The well-seasoned, panko-crusted Japanese fried chicken tori karake (Rs 250) remined us more of a chicken katsu than a karake which are usually bite sized nuggets as opposed to the sliced breast portion we found on our plate.  
Having just returned from the sweltering climes of Bangkok, we were taken straight back to its meandering sois with the very authentic and super reasonably priced som tum papaya salad (Rs190). Tart, sweet and salty—this iteration was packed with all the good things a refreshing Thai papaya salad should have. Falling off-the-bone tender and smothered in a star anise-redolent sauce, the BBQ pork ribs (Rs 390) had just the right amount of smoky flavour, ending with a slight hint of piquant bird eye chili.  
Ten (yes, we counted!) plump prawns swimming in a thick Thai red curry (Rs 450) accompanied by the slightly astringent tasting pea aubergines was almost sublime when paired with jasmine rice (Rs 180), making for a memorable main. Though we wish we could have said the same for the cloyingly sweet chicken pad Thai (Rs 260), which although was enough to feed four, was left relatively intact by the end of our meal.
It would perhaps have done the chefs at Soy Pan Asian Kitchen a whole lot of good to use the surplus sugar of the pad Thai in the bland and watery tob tin crop (Rs 150) water chestnuts in coconut milk that seemed like the more reasonable dessert to call for, when compared to the only other one on the menu. We’re talking about the ridiculous priced mango cheese cake slice (Rs 450) that we’d probably order on a day when we’re feeling particularly self-indulgent!   

TIME: 12pm to 12am
AT: Gasper Enclave CHS, Shop no 3, St. John’s Road, Pali Naka, Bandra West.
CALL: 9619616398

(An edited version of this review appeared in the 7th May 2019 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 22 https://www.mid-day.com/articles/soy-story/20890171)

Between Breads

From its frugal beginnings—when it was put together by the 4^th Earl of Sandwich as a quick-n-easy hunting trip snack to its various gourmet avatars available today—the ubiquitous sandwich sure has come a long way. As gourmands across the world prepare to celebrate the annual International Sandwich Day on the 3^rd of November, we bring you a serving of a few famous sandwiches from around the world

By Raul Dias

The Philly Cheesesteak, USA
As its name suggests, this iconic submarine-style sandwich has its origins in the state of Philadelphia and the city of Boston to be more specific. So, what we have here is a long hoagie bread roll holding within its soft center, thinly sliced slivers of meat and grilled sweet, white onions all slathered with the luridly yellow coloured Cheese Whiz cheese sauce. And while the rest of America and even the world has produced several, rather ersatz iterations of the Philly Cheesesteak sandwich, the original is a true-blue Bostonian. Right down to legendary ‘war’ between two rival cheesesteak sandwich shops Pat’s and Geno’s, located bang opposite each other at the triangular intersection of 9th St, Wharton St and Passyunk Ave. in the city’s South Philly neighbourhood.

The Bánh Mì, Vietnam
As a lasting ‘legacy’ of its French colonial past, Vietnam’s most iconic street-side snack the Bánh Mì has more than a few elements that reference the, well…French connection! A mini French baguette also called a bánh mì is split lengthwise and layered with a fusion of meats and vegetables from Vietnamese cuisine such as chả lụa sausage, fresh coriander, cucumber ribbons, and pickled carrots and daikon radish, combined with condiments from French cuisine such as pâté along with jalapeño chillies and a sweet-spicy mayonnaise. A typical Saigon dish, the Bánh Mì came into being after the 1954 Partition of Vietnam when migrants moved from North Vietnam to South Vietnam, putting their stamp on Saigon’s local cuisine. Today, one of the best places in Ho Chi Minh City, as Saigon is known as today, to try a Bánh Mì is at the Bánh Mì Bùi Thị Xuân restaurant in the Phạm Ngũ Lão backpacker ghetto.

The Torta Ahogada, Mexico
Like most great sandwiches, the Torta Ahogada has extremely humble underpinnings as a working man’s lunch. Here the porous, yet firm birote bread which has a thick, crunchy crust and softer interior is filled with slices of fried meat or chicken along with cheese and beans. The sandwich is then dunked into a vat of sauce made from vinegar, arbol chilies, garlic, oregano, and other spices and served in its soggy state with a side of tortillas, onion rings and slices of cooling avocado. Invented in the early 1900s in the Mexican city of Gudalajara—with the word ‘torta’ meaning sandwich and ‘agohada’ meaning drowned—several theories abound as to its genesis. One such belief is that the sandwich maker accidentally dropped his freshly made torta into a pan of chilli salsa and his customer loved it so much he kept repeating his ‘mistake’ to remarkable success. But whatever be its origins, one thing is clear: this spicy, messy sandwich is a multisensory treat!

The Balik Ekmek, Turkey
One of the best things about this humble fish sandwich called Balik Ekmek (literally meaning “fish bread”) is that you don’t have to look too hard to find one to treat yourself with when in the Turkish capital of Istanbul. Simply let your olfactory senses lead you to the nearest boat selling this street…err, we mean waterside delicacy! On either sides of the city’s mighty Galata Bridge, in the waterfront neighbourhoods of Eminonu and Karakoy, you can find boats lined up with makeshift grills set up on them dispensing these yummy treats for around 5 Turkish Lira (Rs 56) a piece. What you’ll get is a sturdy round Turkish bread stuffed with a deboned filet of either grilled or fried oily fish such as sardines or mackerel topped with hot sauce and accompanied by sides of raw onion rings, radish, lettuce and a wedge of lemon.   

The Chip Butty, UK  
While this aberration of a sandwich might sound like a carb-on-carb keto diet nightmare, let us assure you that one bite of this classic, yet insanely simple British sandwich and you’ll surrender to its charms. Known as a ‘butty’ in the local vernacular, a sandwich is that quintessential British snack whose avatars are numerous, from the dainty cucumber and watercress ones to the cholesterol-rich bacon butty. For a chip butty, you’ll need to pile on two slices of buttered, thick white sandwich bread with another classic, chips—that we know of as thick cut fries—and slather it all with bright red pumpkin and tomato ketchup. And voila, you’ll be staring down at a typical post binge drinking treat that can be found at almost any fish and chip shop across the country.   

The Po’ Boy, USA
Shrimp, crawfish, lobster, oyster you name it and it can be found in a typically New Orleans, Louisiana style Po’ Boy sandwich. A corruption of the term ‘poor boy’ as it was the most preferred meal of the striking streetcar conductors in 1929, the sandwich evolved from the1800s fried oyster sandwiches on French loaves to include any breaded, deep-fried mollusc or crustacean loaded onto French bread and dressed with lettuce, tomato, pickles, and mayonnaise. Though essentially a seafood sandwich, places like Texas have been known to put own their spin on a Po’ Boy with versions that come stuffed with BBQ meat and chicken. But for the real deal, head down to joints like Avery’s On Tulane along New Orleans’ Tulane Ave. for a taste of the divine that defies explanation.

The Smørrebrød, Denmark
Proving to the world of casual cuisine that a sandwich isn’t always about two pieces of bread holding forth fillings, this Danish classic open-faced sandwich may be a mouthful to pronounce, but the sheer mind-boggling varieties of Smørrebrød will leave you salivating. A typical Smørrebrød is usually constructed out of a slice of buttered rye bread called rugbrød, known for its dense crumb and deep brown hue. Called pålæg, which translates as “lay-on”, the toppings range from cold cuts, slivers of meat or fish, cheese or spreads. But hands down the most popular of all pålæg has got to be cured salmon called gravad laks that’s further topped off with a frond of dill, a splodge of sweet mayonnaise and sent off with a squirt of lemon juice. 

Oddities of the Sandwich World
* At $214 a pop, the title of the World’s Most Expensive Sandwich would have to go to “The Quintessential Grilled Cheese Sandwich,” that’s made by New York City’s legendary Serendipity 3 restaurant. Besides holding unfathomable bragging rights within its folds, the sandwich is made up of two slices of French bread that has Dom Perignon champagne and 23-karat gold baked into it. It is stuffed with caciocavallo podolico, a rare cheese imported from southern Italy and brushed with white truffle oil and gold leaf before it meets the grill.
* Ever heard of the ‘Candwich’? An American company produces these rather bizarre sandwiches in a can! Yes, each tin contains a bread roll and an assortment of flavours, including Peanut Butter and Jelly and Honey BBQ chicken. ‘nuff said.
* As an homage to the King of Rock and Roll, Elvis Presley, The Elvis sandwich is stuffed with an odd assortment of ingredients Elvis was particularly partial to all his life. So, we have peanut butter, banana and bacon ensconced within slices of commercial white bread and grilled with dollops of butter slathered onto the whole thing.
* In Japan, one of the most popular kinds of sandwiches is the Fruit Sando where sweet, soft white cake-like bread is stuffed with whipped cream and a whole ‘orchard’ of fruits from the most popular being strawberries to the downright strange persimmon and musk melon.

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the October 2018 issue of Jetwings Domestic in-flight magazine of Jet Airways http://www.jetairways.com/EN/IN/jetexperience/magazines.aspx)

Sushi 2.0

Today, on International Sushi Day, we liberate all you sushi fans from the shackles of boring, old, run-of-the-mill iterations and introduce you to six of the most unusual and odd ball interpretations of sushi available in the city.

By Raul Dias

Prawns and Edamame Sushi Pizza
If there’s one aspect of sushi that’s truly remarkable, then that would have to be its ability to experiment with both ingredients and presentation styles. Take this innovative sushi pizza for example. Locally sourced prawns and that quintessential Japanese ingredient, edamame are combined with a honey, chilli and fresh mango sauce and shaped to resemble a slice of pizza. “Sushi and pizza are perhaps two the most loved comfort foods and there couldn’t have been a better occasion than International Sushi Day to celebrate the confluence of the two,” says Chef Paul Kinny, Culinary Director, Shizusan Shophouse & Bar.  
At Shizusan Shophouse & Bar, High Street Phoenix, Lower Parel.
Call 62373536
Cost Rs 375 (per slice)

BLT Sushi Sandwich
Pushing the boundary even further, this sushi variant gets a top score on the innovation charts! Taking the classic all-American bacon, lettuce and tomato sandwich and giving it a far eastern fillip as a sushi are the guys at The Fatty Bao. Here, bacon, lettuce and roasted tomato are layered in vinegared-rice and a nori sheet for the ultimate sushi sandwich hybrid. “This sandwich sushi is inspired by the onigirazu sushi, where sushi rice and nori sheets are used to make sandwich shapes with various fillings,” says Chef Prashanth, Executive Chef, The Fatty Bao.
At The Fatty Bao, G1, 108, Morya Classic, Off New Link Road, Andheri West.
Call 62366323/7738008460
Cost Rs 490 (4 pieces)

Tsu No Maki
Just when you thought you’d seen the last mango of the season, you see it well-represented in this totally wacky maki sushi. Joining the salmon-tuna protein duo are slivers of ripe mango and vinegar-sushi rice to make a quadrant shaped piece of sushi. And this is why it is named Tsu No Maki, because in Japanese “Tsu No” means four. “Classical sushi consists of seasonal ingredients prepared using the most sophisticated methods to bring out the best natural flavour of the dish. Where as in the case of innovative versions of sushi, we use local and seasonal ingredients like mango which are much appreciated by our guests,” says Chef Yogendra Adep, Chef De Cuisine, The St. Regis Mumbai
At Yuuka, Level 37, The St. Regis Mumbai, 462, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel West.
Call 61628422
Cost Rs 2,100 (8 pieces)

Gobo Nigiri
As one of Japanese cuisine’s most popular ingredients, the burdock root or gobo is a herb that not just detoxifies the blood, but it is also great for the lymphatic system and skin. Distilling the goodness of this ingredient that we very rarely see in Indian Japanese restaurants is Pa Pa Ya’s all veg Gobo Nigiri. Here, gobo root is combined with carrot, cucumber and avocado that are rolled in a nori sheet, resulting in a sweet, yet pungent sushi roll. “Gobo has a high percentage of irons and vitamins A and B. While creating the dish I wanted to keep the taste authentic as well as make it a healthier option for sushi with the further addition of carrots, cucumber and avocado,” says Chef Sahil Singh, Sr Executive Chef, Pa Pa Ya.
At Pa Pa Ya, Hotel Diplomat, B. K. Boman Behram Marg, Colaba.
Call 8451011174
Cost Rs 625 (8 pieces)

Battera Sushi with Salmon and Tuna
Very little is known about the Osaka-style pressed sushi called oshizushi. Introducing us, to not just this regional sushi speciality, but going one step further and topping it off with three very unusual ingredients—avocado tartare, capers and onion salsa is the Battera Sushi with salmon and tuna. “Battera sushi, that is moulded in a special wooden box, is both fun to eat and lovely to look at. And not to mention different from the usual monotony of rolled sushi, that one sees everywhere,” says Chef Vikram Khatri, Executive Chef, Hello Guppy.
At Hello Guppy, Ground Floor, Godrej-BKC, G-Block, BKC.
Call 26534720
Cost Rs 720 (8 pieces)

Mafia Roll
Never mind its rather intimidating name, this sushi roll is all about fun. How else can one explain the use of popping corn as one of its main ingredients? This uramaki (inside out) roll of corn tempura with piquillo peppers and gochujang mayonnaise that’s garnished with some popcorn and parsley has an interesting story behind its name. “The pop and bang of the Italian Mafia is carried forward into this sushi roll which has popping corn and fiery roasted piquillo peppers along with the bang of spicy gochujang mayonnaise,” says Chef Farrokh Khambata, Owner-Chef, Joss.
At Joss, Ground Floor, Savoy Chambers, Linking Road, Santacruz West.
Call 26617771
Cost Rs 850 (8 pieces)


Recipe for…
Sriracha Blush Maki Sushi

Ingredients:
15gm Avocado Cubes
15gm Cucumber Batons
10gm Shredded Carrot
15gm Jalapeño Tempura Fried
15gm Cream Cheese
10gm Black Sesame Seeds
120gm Sushi Rice (boiled)
30ml Sushi Vinegar
1 Nori Seaweed Sheet
10ml Sriracha Hot Chilli Sauce
10gm Tobanjan Paste
10gm Togarashi Japanese Spice Powder
10gm Kewpie Japanese Mayonnaise

Method:
* Place the nori sheet on a sushi mat and spread the cooked and vinegar-sprinkled sushi rice on it. Sprinkle togarashi and sesame seeds on top of the rice.
* Turn over the sheet. Put cream cheese, avocado, cucumber, carrot, fried jalapeño tempura in the centre of the sheet.
* Roll it tightly and cut into eight pieces and arrange on a platter.
* Drizzle with Kewpie mayonnaise mixed with tobanjan paste and dot with sriracha sauce.

--Recipe courtesy Chef Paul Kinny, Culinary Director, Shizusan Shophouse & Bar

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 18th June 2018 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 22 https://www.mid-day.com/articles/international-sushi-day-heres-six-unusual-picks-from-across-mumbais-eateries/19530158)