Raw Beauties!

Showing us that there’s a whole lot more to raw fish dishes than plain old Japanese sashimi are a host of interesting and exotic preparations from as far as Peru to the Philippines. Smart Life introduces you to a few such edible wonders.  

By Raul Dias

It’s safe to say that most of the world’s love affair with raw fish is rather recent. And one that is in its embryonic stages as far the average Indian diner is concerned. Once looked upon as freakishly alien and best left to where it belonged, the raw fish wonder that is Japanese sashimi has ensnared the entire world with its fresh, clean taste and healthy diet appeal. 

Today, sushi bars are an ubiquitous site the world over, with patrons hungry for a piece of that freshly sliced amberjack or for a portion of those gossamer thin slivers of yellowfin tuna—all anointed with a dab of wasabi and a splash of shoyu (soy sauce). And while smoked salmon too has made its way around the world via Scandinavia in the form of gravlax and New York (where it is known as lox), our notion of raw fish preparations is still woefully confined to the above-mentioned two. Not anymore! 

Digging a little deeper into the vast sphere of world cuisine shows us the existence of a whole smorgasbord (pun intended!) of raw fish dish iterations from a diverse number of places that have been enjoyed for centuries in various forms and styles.

Here are a few such raw revelations: 

Poké from Hawaii

Pronounced poh-kay and meaning to “cut crosswise into pieces” this supremely healthy and tasty one bowl Hawaiian origin dish is a very simple preparation that sees short grain sushi rice that has been pre-vinegared as the base. This rice is then topped with diced raw fish and other seafood that can range from salmon and tuna to octopus and sea urchin. A splash of soy, a squirt of Japanese mayonnaise, a dusting of the Japanese spice blend called furikake, sesame seeds and dried flakes of nori (seaweed) finish off this dish that is criminally addictive and clean tasting. Interestingly, very similar to poké is the Korean dish called hoedeopbap that consists of marinated raw tuna served over rice.

Ceviche from Peru

Over the last decade or so the popularity of this paradoxically raw, yet ‘cooked’ fish dish from Peru has reached dizzying heights. This seemingly simple dish is a complex preparation made from fresh raw fish cured in citrus juices, such as lemon or lime, and spiced with ají chillies and other seasonings including chopped onions, salt, and coriander. It is the all-important citrus that cooks the fish, turning its translucent flesh into a milky opaque. Ceviche is usually accompanied by side dishes that complement its flavours such as sweet potato, lettuce, roasted corn kernels called cancha and the current hipster chic craze—avocado!

Kokoda from Fiji

Coming to us straight from the swaying coconut trees and cool waters of the lush Fijian islands, this raw fish dish celebrates two of the island’s greatest resources—coconuts and its abundant seafood. Pronounced ko-kon-da, kokoda is a refreshing salad-appetizer that’s perfect after a day swimming the cerulean ocean. Just like a ceviche, cubed white fish like snapper, walu or mahi mahi is first marinated in a citrus mixture so that it cures and cooks and then a splash of cooling coconut cream is added to give the dish its creamy consistency. Diced tomatoes and a few fronds of coriander finish off this dish that is always served in a hollowed-out coconut shell.  

Crudo and Carpaccio from Italy

Literally meaning ‘crude’ or ‘raw’ in Italian, crudo is a super popular and versatile raw fish dish from Italy that can be anything from slices of raw fish drizzled over with olive oil and seasoning, to a chopped version just like a steak tartare that’s always topped with an egg yolk. Similarly, fish carpaccio is the pescatarian version of the thinly sliced raw beef dish of the same name that was invented in 1950 by Giuseppe Cipriani, founder of Harry’s Bar in Venice and named in honour of Vittore Carpaccio, the Venetian painter known for his characteristic red and white tones.  

Yusheng from China

Literally meaning “raw fish” the dish is basically a Cantonese-style raw fish salad consisting of strips of raw fish mixed with shredded vegetables and a variety of sauces and condiments, among other ingredients. Also known as the “prosperity toss”, yusheng has been a Cantonese favourite for decades with the most common form being the qicai yusheng (seven-coloured raw fish salad) served in local restaurants during the Chinese New Year period. And although versions of it are thought to have existed in ancient China, the contemporary version was created and popularised in the 1960s.

Kinilaw from the Philippines

An interesting raw fish dish that is closely related to not one but two dishes on this list, kinilaw from the Philippines borrows elements from both a ceviche and a kokoda. Hailing from the Visayan region of the archipelago, the name kinilaw is derived from the word, “kilaw”, which means raw or uncooked. Just like a ceviche, the seafood is ‘cooked’ without the application of heat but is rather cured in vinegar. Additional souring agents like the native calamansi (a lime-orange like fruit), tamarind, or green mangoes are added to enhance its tartness. To complete the dish, black pepper, onions, ginger, seaweed and sliced chilies are also added. And in some parts of the country, just like a kokoda, a dash of coconut milk or cream is added to give the dish a creamy, sweetish send-off! 

(A differently edited version of this piece was first published in the November 2020 issue of The Week's Smart Life magazine)

The Carpaccio Redux

Who said that a carpaccio is all about thin slivers of raw, red meat? Restaurants across the city put a new spin on the Italian classic, sending out everything from a duck, coconut and even a dessert version of the refreshing appetiser!

By Raul Dias

Yellow Fin Tuna Carpaccio
This fishy iteration of the carpaccio at Ballard Estate’s The Clearing House sees beetroot tartare layered with potato and green apple, sitting atop a bed of thinly sliced yellow fin tuna carpaccio. All this is then jazzed up with a tangy citrus dressing. “The dish is loosely inspired by the Russian classic Selyodka Pod Shuboy which uses herring. But due to the scarce availability of good quality fresh herring, we substituted the fish component with tuna and placed the tartare on a bed of yellow fin tuna carpaccio instead, which worked beautifully,” says Nitin Kulkarni, executive chef.
At The Clearing House, 13-15 Calicut Street, Ballard Estate
Call 22683030
Cost Rs 650

Duck Carpaccio with Arugula and Orange Segments
Although it’s highly unusual (and a tad dangerous!) to see poultry prepared in this raw form as a carpaccio, we’ve not only eaten it and lived to tell the tale, but have loved this version of the carpaccio that’s being served at Dine at The Quarter with peppery arugula, capers, parmesan cheese and orange segments sitting atop it. “I always work with classic, old school recipes with a contemporary twist. Carpaccio is one of the classic dish particularly known for its thin slices of beef. However, duck is not commonly used for carpaccio as it has quite a gamey flavour. To avoid that, we remove the fat, sinew and marinate the duck in a citrus-based marinade overnight and freeze it which helps to soften the muscles and tenderise the meat,” says Nico Goghavala, co-founder, The Quarter.
At Dine at The Quarter, Royal Opera House, Mathew Rd, Opera House, Girgaon
Call 8329110638
Cost Rs 400

Scallop and Black Truffle Carpaccio
On the menu at Estella in Juhu is this lovely, delicate dish of scallops done carpaccio-style with decadent black truffles that is sophisticated, yet refreshing thanks to other ingredients like a burnt orange aioli, edible flowers and micro greens. “Scallops are one of my personal favourite and here, they are grilled on just one side. The raw juices of the mollusk, along with the truffle and the tang of the creamy burnt orange aioli is one lovely combination,” says Chef Rohan D’Souza, lead chef at Silver Beach Entertainment Hospitality pvt ltd.
At Estella, Nichani Kutir, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu
Call 7999998232/7999998212
Cost Rs 825

Trio of Beetroot with Coconut Carpaccio
While one might argue that the beetroot done three ways (pickled, braised and roasted) is the hero of this dish, it is the thin, quivering tender coconut carpaccio that truly elevates this dish—that’s accentuated with creamy, house-fermented coconut yogurt and spicy serrano chilli pepper salsa—to a gastronomic high. “Making carpaccio allows a chef to “show off” his culinary skills in terms of flavour, appearance and knife skills. Everything needs to be in just the right place, in order to create a perfect tasting—and looking—dish. My process for this dish started off with the freshest produce, the right temperature for all the ingredients, the perfect amount of seasoning, and above all, the slices; as that’s what carpaccio is ultimately all about,” says Rishim Sachdeva, head chef, Olive Bar & Kitchen.
At Olive Bar & Kitchen, 14 Union Park, Khar West
Call 43408229
Cost Rs 525

Carpaccio of Strawberries with Pea Shoots
Stretching the limits of creativity, this carpaccio at Izaya is not only a vegetarian one, but is a dessert to top it all! This dessert is made up of a strawberry yogurt namelaka ganache which is topped with fresh strawberries done carpaccio style, infused with basil and garnished with berry jelly, edible flowers and pea shoots which brings out the brightness of the dessert. “Traditionally, a carpaccio is a dish of raw meat that is thinly sliced. The inspiration for this dessert was to give the popular appetiser a dessert-esque spin! We’ve finely sliced the strawberries to simulate the look and texture of the original dish. It is further enhanced by the creamy texture of the namelaka and the crunch of the dulce rosher,” says pastry chef, Aniket Parkar.
At Izaya, NCPA, Gate No. 2, Nariman Point
Call 22821212
Cost Rs 550



The Original Carpaccio
Invented in 1950 by Giuseppe Cipriani from Harry’s Bar in Venice, Italy during an electricity outage, the carpaccio is named in honour of Vittore Carpaccio, the Venetian painter known for the characteristic red and white tones of his work. This analogy is apt, as a traditional carpaccio is a dish of raw, red meat, thinly sliced and served with lemon, olive oil, and white truffle or Parmesan cheese!

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 22nd January 2018 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India https://m.mid-day.com/amp/articles/mumbai-food-5-carpaccio-dishes-with-a-twist-you-can-try-at-city-eateries/18963182)