The Carpaccio Redux

Who said that a carpaccio is all about thin slivers of raw, red meat? Restaurants across the city put a new spin on the Italian classic, sending out everything from a duck, coconut and even a dessert version of the refreshing appetiser!

By Raul Dias

Yellow Fin Tuna Carpaccio
This fishy iteration of the carpaccio at Ballard Estate’s The Clearing House sees beetroot tartare layered with potato and green apple, sitting atop a bed of thinly sliced yellow fin tuna carpaccio. All this is then jazzed up with a tangy citrus dressing. “The dish is loosely inspired by the Russian classic Selyodka Pod Shuboy which uses herring. But due to the scarce availability of good quality fresh herring, we substituted the fish component with tuna and placed the tartare on a bed of yellow fin tuna carpaccio instead, which worked beautifully,” says Nitin Kulkarni, executive chef.
At The Clearing House, 13-15 Calicut Street, Ballard Estate
Call 22683030
Cost Rs 650

Duck Carpaccio with Arugula and Orange Segments
Although it’s highly unusual (and a tad dangerous!) to see poultry prepared in this raw form as a carpaccio, we’ve not only eaten it and lived to tell the tale, but have loved this version of the carpaccio that’s being served at Dine at The Quarter with peppery arugula, capers, parmesan cheese and orange segments sitting atop it. “I always work with classic, old school recipes with a contemporary twist. Carpaccio is one of the classic dish particularly known for its thin slices of beef. However, duck is not commonly used for carpaccio as it has quite a gamey flavour. To avoid that, we remove the fat, sinew and marinate the duck in a citrus-based marinade overnight and freeze it which helps to soften the muscles and tenderise the meat,” says Nico Goghavala, co-founder, The Quarter.
At Dine at The Quarter, Royal Opera House, Mathew Rd, Opera House, Girgaon
Call 8329110638
Cost Rs 400

Scallop and Black Truffle Carpaccio
On the menu at Estella in Juhu is this lovely, delicate dish of scallops done carpaccio-style with decadent black truffles that is sophisticated, yet refreshing thanks to other ingredients like a burnt orange aioli, edible flowers and micro greens. “Scallops are one of my personal favourite and here, they are grilled on just one side. The raw juices of the mollusk, along with the truffle and the tang of the creamy burnt orange aioli is one lovely combination,” says Chef Rohan D’Souza, lead chef at Silver Beach Entertainment Hospitality pvt ltd.
At Estella, Nichani Kutir, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu
Call 7999998232/7999998212
Cost Rs 825

Trio of Beetroot with Coconut Carpaccio
While one might argue that the beetroot done three ways (pickled, braised and roasted) is the hero of this dish, it is the thin, quivering tender coconut carpaccio that truly elevates this dish—that’s accentuated with creamy, house-fermented coconut yogurt and spicy serrano chilli pepper salsa—to a gastronomic high. “Making carpaccio allows a chef to “show off” his culinary skills in terms of flavour, appearance and knife skills. Everything needs to be in just the right place, in order to create a perfect tasting—and looking—dish. My process for this dish started off with the freshest produce, the right temperature for all the ingredients, the perfect amount of seasoning, and above all, the slices; as that’s what carpaccio is ultimately all about,” says Rishim Sachdeva, head chef, Olive Bar & Kitchen.
At Olive Bar & Kitchen, 14 Union Park, Khar West
Call 43408229
Cost Rs 525

Carpaccio of Strawberries with Pea Shoots
Stretching the limits of creativity, this carpaccio at Izaya is not only a vegetarian one, but is a dessert to top it all! This dessert is made up of a strawberry yogurt namelaka ganache which is topped with fresh strawberries done carpaccio style, infused with basil and garnished with berry jelly, edible flowers and pea shoots which brings out the brightness of the dessert. “Traditionally, a carpaccio is a dish of raw meat that is thinly sliced. The inspiration for this dessert was to give the popular appetiser a dessert-esque spin! We’ve finely sliced the strawberries to simulate the look and texture of the original dish. It is further enhanced by the creamy texture of the namelaka and the crunch of the dulce rosher,” says pastry chef, Aniket Parkar.
At Izaya, NCPA, Gate No. 2, Nariman Point
Call 22821212
Cost Rs 550



The Original Carpaccio
Invented in 1950 by Giuseppe Cipriani from Harry’s Bar in Venice, Italy during an electricity outage, the carpaccio is named in honour of Vittore Carpaccio, the Venetian painter known for the characteristic red and white tones of his work. This analogy is apt, as a traditional carpaccio is a dish of raw, red meat, thinly sliced and served with lemon, olive oil, and white truffle or Parmesan cheese!

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 22nd January 2018 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India https://m.mid-day.com/amp/articles/mumbai-food-5-carpaccio-dishes-with-a-twist-you-can-try-at-city-eateries/18963182)