(This article first appeared online on 1st December 2022 on ZeeZest https://zeezest.com/food/will-2023-be-the-year-of-the-yak-2785)
Showing posts with label RESTAURANTS. Show all posts
Showing posts with label RESTAURANTS. Show all posts
Thursday, December 1, 2022
Tuesday, June 28, 2022
Restaurant Review: Trèsind Studio Dubai
Wednesday, June 8, 2022
Dubai Diaries: 5 Interesting Food Experiences In The City Of Extravagances
Monday, December 13, 2021
Restaurant Review: Café Reed at The Quorum
(This review appeared on 13th December 2021 online in Mid-Day newspaper, India https://www.mid-day.com/mumbai-guide/mumbai-food/article/classic-goes-chic-23204927 )
Friday, March 6, 2020
Bowled Over!
Known for its wholesome appeal and colourful components, the meal-in-one bowl is fast becoming one of the hottest international food trends—from its savoury to sweet avatars. Smart Life brings you a few such bowls from across the country.
By Raul Dias
Almost instantly spelling out the words ‘Comfort Food’ in big, bold alphabets, the one bowl meal has a certain easy-going, pretence-free vibe about it and one that has achieved popularity and hipster-chic credence over the last couple of years. Not only are they a convenient and clever way to mix all of your favourite ingredients together, but for whatever reason food just seems more interesting when served from a bowl!
Be it an Asian-style Buddha bowl, a Korean bibimbap-influenced bowl or a fruit and oats-laden breakfast bowl topped with the very fashionable and au courant sliced avocado and chia seeds, the bowl meal is here to stay.
We’ve compiled a list of a few such bowls here in India that have left us, well…bowled over with their brilliance.
Hot Pot Bowl
At Pra Pra Prank, Gurugram
A hot pot is a classic Mongolian rice dish that is served with various vegetable and meat toppings which come sizzling hot in a stone pot. One gets fantastically browned brunt rice at the bottom of the pot, making this dish extra delicious. In this version of the one bowl meal, wok tossed Schezwan-sauced rice is topped with chicken, water chestnuts, roasted peanuts, sweet corn kernels, chives, mushrooms and fried garlic. What makes this dish even more special is that it gives the diner the unique experience of eating from a sizzling stone bowl into which all the ingredients are mixed in front of them. “I came up with this idea because when we were preparing for our new menu, winter was approaching. And so, I thought that I should present my guests with a memorable experience,” says Chef Aryav, the Executive Chef at Pra Pra Prank. “And I thought that there can be nothing better than a sizzling hot meat and rice dish which stays hot till the last bite!”
Morning Glory Bowl and Tokyo Pork Bowl
At Shibuii, Mumbai
Offering two distinct bowls—one vegetarian and one pork-based—this new Pan-Asian restaurant champions this food trend. To begin with, the morning glory bowl is composed of a serving of morning glory leaves tossed in garlic and chilly and then bathed in yellow bean sauce. This is complimented with steamed aromatic jasmine rice. To complete the meal, the bowl also consists of delicately hand rolled vegetable spring rolls drizzled with a tangy hoisin sauce, which gives the meal that extra something. To add to it, the bowl also includes some starch in the form of finger potatoes in a sweet and spicy sauce.
On the other hand, the Tokyo pork bowl is made up of delicious and succulent chargrilled pork belly slices glazed in a spiced curry broth made with the stock of pork, herbs and vegetables. All this is perfectly paired with steamed jasmine rice with prawn crackers and a hand-rolled spring roll adding some crunch to your meal-in-one bowl.
Chilli Tossed Tuna Poké Bowl
At Toast & Tonic Bengaluru
Generally, this Hawaiian-origin one bowl wonder is a delicious concoction where soy- and sesame oil-marinated raw tuna cubes are served atop vinegared sushi rice. Predominantly a lunch dish, poké (pronounced poh-kay) has taken over the world as a healthy, highly nutritious and fun way to eat fish and rice. Dishing out one of the yummiest iterations of the dish in India we’ve had the pleasure of eating, Toast & Tonic in Bengaluru’s Ashok Nagar does things a little differently with their Chilli Tossed Tuna Poké Bowl. Here the traditional sushi rice is substituted for the short-grained and sticky Gobindobhog variety from Bengal, with the bowl topped off with a passion fruit and pineapple vinaigrette, a halved, beetroot-pickled boiled egg and fresh avocado cubes. All of this is then sprinkled with micro mustard greens, shards of nori (dried Japanese seaweed), fried onions and a sprinkling of the very fashionable chia seeds.
Hot Stone Bowl
At Molecule Air Bar, New Delhi
Drawing in great inspiration from the classic Korean dish called bibimbap, the super colourful hot stone bowl served here consists of warm jasmine rice accompanied by various ingredients like water chestnuts, broccoli, peanuts, sprouts, tofu, spring onion, peppers, chicken, with a fried egg sitting atop it. One also gets to choose a sauce of your liking. Here all the ingredients are mixed in a heated stone bowl in front of the guest at their table and served piping hot. “This dish has very warm flavours which are just right for the winter season,” says Mohammed Anas Qureshi, the Brand Chef. “And as it is served in a hot bowl, the dish stays warm for a longer period of time. The whole idea of this dish is to serve our guest something which brings warmth to their dining experience this season.”
Kiwi Banana Smoothie Bowl
At The Daily Bar & Kitchen, Mumbai
We’ve truly saved the ‘sweetest’ bowl on this list for last with the fruity, all-day breakfast treat that is the yummy kiwi banana smoothie bowl at Mumbai’s The Daily Bar & Kitchen. This bowl is made by blending fresh kiwis and chopped bananas with yogurt that is perfect for people following a healthy diet. Coconut powder is incorporated into this mixture for added flavour, post which it is kept in the refrigerator to chill for a couple of hours. The dish is then served in a bowl and topped with slices of both fruits, delicious toasted granola and some chia seeds to add the right amount of texture. “Banana and Kiwi are my favourite fruits and I usually choose these when I am on the go. Being my staples, I decided to incorporate these two in a smoothie bowl allowing my breakfasts to be super healthy and easy to make,” says Liton Bhakta, Head Chef, The Daily Bar & Kitchen. “Since it worked so well, I decided to add this to The Daily’s menu and ever since it has been the most ordered smoothie bowl!”
(A differently edited version of this piece was first published in the March 2020 issue of The Week's Smart Life magazine)
By Raul Dias
Almost instantly spelling out the words ‘Comfort Food’ in big, bold alphabets, the one bowl meal has a certain easy-going, pretence-free vibe about it and one that has achieved popularity and hipster-chic credence over the last couple of years. Not only are they a convenient and clever way to mix all of your favourite ingredients together, but for whatever reason food just seems more interesting when served from a bowl!
Be it an Asian-style Buddha bowl, a Korean bibimbap-influenced bowl or a fruit and oats-laden breakfast bowl topped with the very fashionable and au courant sliced avocado and chia seeds, the bowl meal is here to stay.
We’ve compiled a list of a few such bowls here in India that have left us, well…bowled over with their brilliance.
Hot Pot Bowl
At Pra Pra Prank, Gurugram
A hot pot is a classic Mongolian rice dish that is served with various vegetable and meat toppings which come sizzling hot in a stone pot. One gets fantastically browned brunt rice at the bottom of the pot, making this dish extra delicious. In this version of the one bowl meal, wok tossed Schezwan-sauced rice is topped with chicken, water chestnuts, roasted peanuts, sweet corn kernels, chives, mushrooms and fried garlic. What makes this dish even more special is that it gives the diner the unique experience of eating from a sizzling stone bowl into which all the ingredients are mixed in front of them. “I came up with this idea because when we were preparing for our new menu, winter was approaching. And so, I thought that I should present my guests with a memorable experience,” says Chef Aryav, the Executive Chef at Pra Pra Prank. “And I thought that there can be nothing better than a sizzling hot meat and rice dish which stays hot till the last bite!”
Morning Glory Bowl and Tokyo Pork Bowl
At Shibuii, Mumbai
Offering two distinct bowls—one vegetarian and one pork-based—this new Pan-Asian restaurant champions this food trend. To begin with, the morning glory bowl is composed of a serving of morning glory leaves tossed in garlic and chilly and then bathed in yellow bean sauce. This is complimented with steamed aromatic jasmine rice. To complete the meal, the bowl also consists of delicately hand rolled vegetable spring rolls drizzled with a tangy hoisin sauce, which gives the meal that extra something. To add to it, the bowl also includes some starch in the form of finger potatoes in a sweet and spicy sauce.
On the other hand, the Tokyo pork bowl is made up of delicious and succulent chargrilled pork belly slices glazed in a spiced curry broth made with the stock of pork, herbs and vegetables. All this is perfectly paired with steamed jasmine rice with prawn crackers and a hand-rolled spring roll adding some crunch to your meal-in-one bowl.
Chilli Tossed Tuna Poké Bowl
At Toast & Tonic Bengaluru
Generally, this Hawaiian-origin one bowl wonder is a delicious concoction where soy- and sesame oil-marinated raw tuna cubes are served atop vinegared sushi rice. Predominantly a lunch dish, poké (pronounced poh-kay) has taken over the world as a healthy, highly nutritious and fun way to eat fish and rice. Dishing out one of the yummiest iterations of the dish in India we’ve had the pleasure of eating, Toast & Tonic in Bengaluru’s Ashok Nagar does things a little differently with their Chilli Tossed Tuna Poké Bowl. Here the traditional sushi rice is substituted for the short-grained and sticky Gobindobhog variety from Bengal, with the bowl topped off with a passion fruit and pineapple vinaigrette, a halved, beetroot-pickled boiled egg and fresh avocado cubes. All of this is then sprinkled with micro mustard greens, shards of nori (dried Japanese seaweed), fried onions and a sprinkling of the very fashionable chia seeds.
Hot Stone Bowl
At Molecule Air Bar, New Delhi
Drawing in great inspiration from the classic Korean dish called bibimbap, the super colourful hot stone bowl served here consists of warm jasmine rice accompanied by various ingredients like water chestnuts, broccoli, peanuts, sprouts, tofu, spring onion, peppers, chicken, with a fried egg sitting atop it. One also gets to choose a sauce of your liking. Here all the ingredients are mixed in a heated stone bowl in front of the guest at their table and served piping hot. “This dish has very warm flavours which are just right for the winter season,” says Mohammed Anas Qureshi, the Brand Chef. “And as it is served in a hot bowl, the dish stays warm for a longer period of time. The whole idea of this dish is to serve our guest something which brings warmth to their dining experience this season.”
Kiwi Banana Smoothie Bowl
At The Daily Bar & Kitchen, Mumbai
We’ve truly saved the ‘sweetest’ bowl on this list for last with the fruity, all-day breakfast treat that is the yummy kiwi banana smoothie bowl at Mumbai’s The Daily Bar & Kitchen. This bowl is made by blending fresh kiwis and chopped bananas with yogurt that is perfect for people following a healthy diet. Coconut powder is incorporated into this mixture for added flavour, post which it is kept in the refrigerator to chill for a couple of hours. The dish is then served in a bowl and topped with slices of both fruits, delicious toasted granola and some chia seeds to add the right amount of texture. “Banana and Kiwi are my favourite fruits and I usually choose these when I am on the go. Being my staples, I decided to incorporate these two in a smoothie bowl allowing my breakfasts to be super healthy and easy to make,” says Liton Bhakta, Head Chef, The Daily Bar & Kitchen. “Since it worked so well, I decided to add this to The Daily’s menu and ever since it has been the most ordered smoothie bowl!”
(A differently edited version of this piece was first published in the March 2020 issue of The Week's Smart Life magazine)
Tuesday, February 25, 2020
(Not So) High Pie!
With a menu full of yummy pizzas in a range of sizes more than making up for the uninspired service and lacklustre ambience, this new mid-town pizza place gets some of its basics right, never mind its rather misleading name.
By Raul Dias
Over the years we’ve come to realise that expectations can be dangerous things. Especially in this context, when pitted against one of the most interesting iterations of the humble pizza pie—the Chicago-style deep dish. That gooey 2-inch high creation crammed full of molten cheese and other scrumptious treats like good old pepperoni and spicy chicken sausage is made famous by iconic Chicago pizza places like Lou Malnati’s and Giordano’s.
Driving by Mahim’s main L.J. Road, seeing this new pizza place take shape over the last couple of months, we couldn’t wait to give it a try. Hoping fervently that we’d finally find the deep dish at Chicago Pizza. After all, it’s even named after it. We’re sad to report that we didn’t! There’s everything but the said deep dish pizza on their rather extensive menu.
Greeted by an empty restaurant and a deserted counter, we sat ourselves down on the uncomfortably low chairs, fronted by an even lower table. It would be almost ten minutes later that the restaurant’s staff finally emerges from their hibernation in the back kitchen and we are beckoned over to the counter to place our order in typical QSR style. All payments made upfront; we waited another half an hour to see some action on our table.
Choosing the large (14-inch) thin crust Italian pepperoni pizza (Rs 529) from a wide range of sizes that range from a single slice (Rs 189) to an extra-large (Rs 909 for an 18-inch) one proved to be a good decision. Bursting with the gooey umami goodness of cheese with the spicy hit of the pork pepperoni, we were in love with this pizza from the first bite. Equally scrumptious was the medium sized (9-inch) four cheese pizza (Rs 269) where one could taste the distinct flavours of the Monterrey, cheddar, gouda and mozzarella cheeses in this creamy, tomato-sauce bereft pizza.
Sadly, our trio of mocktails were rather disappointing. While the Indian spice soda (Rs 99) was anything by spicy, the virgin mojito (Rs 99) was a watery, over-sugared miss. Faring a tad better, though flat and minus the fizz, was our strawberry cooler (Rs 99).
While wishing the pizzaiolo (pizza chef) was a tad more generous with their light-handed sprinkling of mini chicken meatballs, we still loved the herby taste of the large chicken meatball pizza (Rs 399). Packed with the punch of robust Indian flavours, our medium sized rustic mushroom pizza (Rs 269) rounded off our pizza action for the day perfectly with its savoury goodness.
Choosing to go a little ‘off-piste’ in our final selection of savoury items, the Italian chicken pasta in a white sauce (Rs 259) was composed of perfectly al dente penne with BBQ chicken morsels, corn and jalapenos, giving both the dish and us a spicy send off!
AT: Chicago Pizza, 148-150 Kadriwadi, L.J. Road, Mahim West.
TIME: 10 am to 11.30 pm
CALL: 9833783615
(An edited version of this review appeared in the 24th February 2020 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 21 https://www.mid-day.com/articles/slice-of-goodness/22638243)
By Raul Dias
Over the years we’ve come to realise that expectations can be dangerous things. Especially in this context, when pitted against one of the most interesting iterations of the humble pizza pie—the Chicago-style deep dish. That gooey 2-inch high creation crammed full of molten cheese and other scrumptious treats like good old pepperoni and spicy chicken sausage is made famous by iconic Chicago pizza places like Lou Malnati’s and Giordano’s.
Driving by Mahim’s main L.J. Road, seeing this new pizza place take shape over the last couple of months, we couldn’t wait to give it a try. Hoping fervently that we’d finally find the deep dish at Chicago Pizza. After all, it’s even named after it. We’re sad to report that we didn’t! There’s everything but the said deep dish pizza on their rather extensive menu.
Greeted by an empty restaurant and a deserted counter, we sat ourselves down on the uncomfortably low chairs, fronted by an even lower table. It would be almost ten minutes later that the restaurant’s staff finally emerges from their hibernation in the back kitchen and we are beckoned over to the counter to place our order in typical QSR style. All payments made upfront; we waited another half an hour to see some action on our table.
Choosing the large (14-inch) thin crust Italian pepperoni pizza (Rs 529) from a wide range of sizes that range from a single slice (Rs 189) to an extra-large (Rs 909 for an 18-inch) one proved to be a good decision. Bursting with the gooey umami goodness of cheese with the spicy hit of the pork pepperoni, we were in love with this pizza from the first bite. Equally scrumptious was the medium sized (9-inch) four cheese pizza (Rs 269) where one could taste the distinct flavours of the Monterrey, cheddar, gouda and mozzarella cheeses in this creamy, tomato-sauce bereft pizza.
Sadly, our trio of mocktails were rather disappointing. While the Indian spice soda (Rs 99) was anything by spicy, the virgin mojito (Rs 99) was a watery, over-sugared miss. Faring a tad better, though flat and minus the fizz, was our strawberry cooler (Rs 99).
While wishing the pizzaiolo (pizza chef) was a tad more generous with their light-handed sprinkling of mini chicken meatballs, we still loved the herby taste of the large chicken meatball pizza (Rs 399). Packed with the punch of robust Indian flavours, our medium sized rustic mushroom pizza (Rs 269) rounded off our pizza action for the day perfectly with its savoury goodness.
Choosing to go a little ‘off-piste’ in our final selection of savoury items, the Italian chicken pasta in a white sauce (Rs 259) was composed of perfectly al dente penne with BBQ chicken morsels, corn and jalapenos, giving both the dish and us a spicy send off!
AT: Chicago Pizza, 148-150 Kadriwadi, L.J. Road, Mahim West.
TIME: 10 am to 11.30 pm
CALL: 9833783615
(An edited version of this review appeared in the 24th February 2020 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 21 https://www.mid-day.com/articles/slice-of-goodness/22638243)
Tuesday, February 4, 2020
Sweet Somethings...
What’s a romantic Valentine’s Day date without concluding it on a sweet note? Smart Life brings you some of India’s most beautiful and appealing shared desserts to indulge with.
By Raul Dias
The adage “saving the best for last” has never been more apt when it comes to desserts. That sweet finish to a good meal puts the proverbial—and often, quite literal—cherry on the cake. After all, the dessert is the last thing one remembers of the meal. The luxurious goodness of every sweet bite rounding it all off so very well.
Now when combined with one of the most romantic days of the year, aka. Valentine’s Day, the results can be quite magical and special. It’s also safe to say that over the last couple of years the ante of desserts across the country has been upped. And how! From almost sculptural creations to some truly scrumptious treats, the dessert scene in India has entered a whole other realm.
Keeping this in mind, we’ve come up with a list of some of the most stunning confections to indulge in with your special someone all though this love-fuelled month of February. Enjoy!
Five Spice Cake
At Shanghai Club, ITC Grand Central, Mumbai
As its name suggests, this spicy, Chinese-style dessert packs in quite a punch at the end of a romantic dinner for two! As part of the Shanghai Club’s new menu, this layered confection is made up of 63% dark Belgian chocolate and chocolate cremeux which is further enhanced with a freshly ground mixture of five spices such as cinnamon, cloves, fennel, star anise and Sichuan peppercorns. The super-moist, flourless baked cake is also served with a whiskey-steeped Chinese pear compote for a tart and boozy contrast to its taste.
Seven Textures of Chocolate with Strawberry
At Tiamo, Conrad Bengaluru
Not just is its name a mouthful, but the main components of this decadent dessert are legendary as being associated with love. For one, chocolate has been long considered an aphrodisiacal food since the time of the Aztecs. Strawberry on the other hand, thanks to heart shape, is recognised as the symbol of Venus—the Roman Goddess of love. This visually stunning creation at the Conrad Bengaluru’s rooftop Mediterranean restaurant Tiamo is a combination of 56% chocolate, nuts, raspberries, cream cheese and fresh strawberries that are sourced from the hills of Ooty. For some additional berry heft, it is served with a quenelle made with fresh, crushed strawberries and some luscious cream cheese.
Dessert Thali
At Dhansoo Café, New Delhi
Giving an interesting desi spin to this selection of romantic shared desserts and putting a twist to the concept of a dessert platter, the innovative Dessert Thali at the brand new Dhansoo Café is a fun way to end your meal. This nine-part dessert extravaganza showcases the best of India’s regional sweet delicacies from the north to the south. And so what you get when you call for this dessert is a coconut laddu, a gulab jamun, a portion of rabdi, kesari bhat, atte ki panjiri, namak paratha, chena mukri and churros jalebi with a few slabs of Mysore pak rounding it all off.
By Raul Dias
The adage “saving the best for last” has never been more apt when it comes to desserts. That sweet finish to a good meal puts the proverbial—and often, quite literal—cherry on the cake. After all, the dessert is the last thing one remembers of the meal. The luxurious goodness of every sweet bite rounding it all off so very well.
Now when combined with one of the most romantic days of the year, aka. Valentine’s Day, the results can be quite magical and special. It’s also safe to say that over the last couple of years the ante of desserts across the country has been upped. And how! From almost sculptural creations to some truly scrumptious treats, the dessert scene in India has entered a whole other realm.
Keeping this in mind, we’ve come up with a list of some of the most stunning confections to indulge in with your special someone all though this love-fuelled month of February. Enjoy!
Five Spice Cake
At Shanghai Club, ITC Grand Central, Mumbai
As its name suggests, this spicy, Chinese-style dessert packs in quite a punch at the end of a romantic dinner for two! As part of the Shanghai Club’s new menu, this layered confection is made up of 63% dark Belgian chocolate and chocolate cremeux which is further enhanced with a freshly ground mixture of five spices such as cinnamon, cloves, fennel, star anise and Sichuan peppercorns. The super-moist, flourless baked cake is also served with a whiskey-steeped Chinese pear compote for a tart and boozy contrast to its taste.
Seven Textures of Chocolate with Strawberry
At Tiamo, Conrad Bengaluru
Not just is its name a mouthful, but the main components of this decadent dessert are legendary as being associated with love. For one, chocolate has been long considered an aphrodisiacal food since the time of the Aztecs. Strawberry on the other hand, thanks to heart shape, is recognised as the symbol of Venus—the Roman Goddess of love. This visually stunning creation at the Conrad Bengaluru’s rooftop Mediterranean restaurant Tiamo is a combination of 56% chocolate, nuts, raspberries, cream cheese and fresh strawberries that are sourced from the hills of Ooty. For some additional berry heft, it is served with a quenelle made with fresh, crushed strawberries and some luscious cream cheese.
Dessert Thali
At Dhansoo Café, New Delhi
Giving an interesting desi spin to this selection of romantic shared desserts and putting a twist to the concept of a dessert platter, the innovative Dessert Thali at the brand new Dhansoo Café is a fun way to end your meal. This nine-part dessert extravaganza showcases the best of India’s regional sweet delicacies from the north to the south. And so what you get when you call for this dessert is a coconut laddu, a gulab jamun, a portion of rabdi, kesari bhat, atte ki panjiri, namak paratha, chena mukri and churros jalebi with a few slabs of Mysore pak rounding it all off.
Warm Apple Tart
At La Loca Maria, Mumbai
Since the time of Adam and Eve in the Garden of Eden, the apple has played a vital role as a fruit that’s synonymous with love. Putting a whole other spin on the fruit, La Loca Maria’s Spanish expat founder Chef Manuel Olveira Seller sends out his rendition of an apple tart in style. His warm apple tart begins with a sweet pastry based with a crisp texture that’s extremely flavourful. The finely-sliced golden apples on the top are caramelised and dusted with icing sugar for a dramatic snow-like effect. A scoop of glossy strawberry and red wine sorbet sits atop the tart and provides the perfect icy foil to the warm tart below.
(A differently edited version of this piece was first published in the February 2020 issue of The Week's Smart Life magazine)
Friday, January 3, 2020
Bengaluru on a plate!
Famous for its dynamic and ultra-casual dining scene, India’s ‘Garden City’ of Bengaluru has an interesting bunch of new restaurants offering a range of cuisine and dining experiences to suit everyone
By Raul Dias
No longer content at being relegated to a ‘third place’ ranking when it comes to dining out in India—when compared with the rather flashy Delhi restaurant scene or with Mumbai’s high concept driven one—the city of Bengaluru is rapidly carving out its own niche. And it does this by playing host to a number of interesting restaurants that each mirror the city’s love for relaxed, ultra-casual dining with a focus on good food.
We bring you four such eateries, each poles apart from the other as far as cuisine and ambience is concerned, but each tied in together by the culinary philosophy of Bengaluru. One where the main focus is strongly on good food in environments that references the easy-going ethos of India’s Garden City!
Mikusu at Conrad Bengaluru
Ulsoor
Though prima facie—thanks to its delightfully onomatopoeic name—Mikusu at the Conrad Bengaluru might seem like a purely Japanese restaurant, the truth is that while it is one, it also prides itself on being an “Asiatic affair” featuring a mélange of Japanese, Chinese and Thai cuisine influences. All this is set against a luxurious, aesthetic backdrop that reflects a sophisticated Asian vibe. It achieves this with the help of key décor pieces such as a delicate cheery blossom branch-inspired light feature and a Japanese yukata art piece made from bits of Chinese blue pottery among other pieces. Overlooking the hotel’s verdant foliage outside its large floor-to-ceiling glass windows, Mikusu is an oasis of calm with a menu featuring some highly nuanced dishes and drinks. Sent out and curated by Executive Chef Praveen Shetty and Chef Rawat, expect to find dishes here such as the traditional Thai tom yom soup, spicy salmon sushi, vegetable futomaki, tuna sashimi, and mains from the kitchen such as sriracha lotus root and grilled fish with togarashi garlic. For desserts indulge yourself with a host of mouth-watering treats such as the passion fruit tiramisu, and the almost-sculptural looking strawberry religieuse and black forest entremets. A special mention for all you cocktail lovers: make sure to call for a curated range of exquisite sake-based and exotic Asia-inspired cocktails that are made table side by a bartender behind the restaurant’s specially purposed mobile cocktail cart.
GoNative
Lavelle Road
A true-blue, feel-good kind of a place, surrounded by a virtual forest of live plants and lush foliage, GoNative is a space of not just calm and serenity, but also one where good, honest-to-goodness food and beverages trump all. To begin with, the all-vegetarian, alcohol-free restaurant uses indigenous grains, pulses and spices that are consciously chosen for their positive impact towards the environment, society and wellness. Spread over two levels, the rather huge dining space features a host of seating options, ranging from a large communal-style table to smaller nooks for intimate gatherings—all lit wonderfully by lights and eco-friendly chandeliers made by GoNative’s in-house lighting brand called Oorjaa. But coming to the food, all their dishes celebrate traditional and familiar flavours in slightly unusual and contemporary ways. Dishes like the bright green soppu neer dosa served with a veg gassi, the innovative cabbage akki roti served with a gongura thokku and the filling banana, almond and date milkshake are also said to be made from pesticide-free ingredients, homemade condiments and fresh organic produce that are sourced from farms around Bengaluru. They also periodically change their menu to integrate seasonal fruits and vegetables into their dishes. This keeps the food light on the tummy, nutritious and healthy. But that’s not all for this eco warrior of a restaurant, not only does GoNative claim to segregate waste, but all organic matter is also composted, and their takeaway containers are biodegradable and plastic-free. Go green, GoNative seems to be the mantra here!
Foxtrot House of Subculture
Koramangala
Dubbing itself as a place modelled on a frat house, Foxtrot House of Subculture claims to be Bengaluru’s new address for good times. And we simply cannot get over the Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde kind of hybridity that this place is imbued with. A bustling coffeehouse focussed in the outdoor patio area during the day, Foxtrot transforms into a thriving cocktail bar indoors during the night with plush couches and crystal drop chandeliers creating the ambience. And as an added plus, Foxtrot is also the home to Mimansa, a health cafe, store, and studio for your daily yoga regimen. The menu here is a global mix of small plates and some large plate options, leaning towards forgotten, hyper-local Indian creations mixed with global ingredients and vice versa. It is divided into breakfast, brunch, south Indian menu, lunch trays with numerous dependable options like the beetroot galouti and the chicken tikka kulcha for snacks and the Tellicherry mutton boti and soya haleem for mains. Their signature cocktails like the lavender- and vodka-based poison ivy and the dark rum- and turmeric-based tornado are also quite impressive with a great mix of flavours. We like!
Cantan
Lavelle Road
Totally devoid of the expected and rather clichéd embellishments like plenty of calligraphy and Chinoiserie one finds at most Chinese restaurants today, Cantan is a like a gentle, refreshing breeze. Calling itself a ‘Chinese Bar House’, the twin-level restaurant nestled along the leafy Lavelle Road in the heart of Bengaluru is a rich multi-sensorial experience with as much subtle drama in its ambience as there is in its sumptuous fare. Speaking of the former, here you will encounter elements like the red dragons laying claim over the bar, the clay tile clad feature wall above the bar inspired by the Great Wall of China and lit-up panels, continuing design details from the lower floor as well as evoking a tea room. Crafted by Executive Chef Prashanth, a veteran in his field, the food’s central theme is inspired by Cantonese fare, specifically from Guangzhou. Think hearty hot pots, Shaokao style Chinese barbeque skewers of aromatic meats and vegetables ready for a wood-fire oven, cold plates, dainty dim sums, the freshest seafood tossed in house-made sauces, and a line-up of stellar signature cocktails like the plum and gin-based Cantan XO. For afters, don’t forget to leave some space for the pillow-y, cloud-like Cantonese steamed cheesecake with a zesty mulberry coulis to give the dessert that perfectly tart send off.
(A differently edited version of this piece was first published in the January 2020 issue of The Week's Smart Life magazine)
By Raul Dias
No longer content at being relegated to a ‘third place’ ranking when it comes to dining out in India—when compared with the rather flashy Delhi restaurant scene or with Mumbai’s high concept driven one—the city of Bengaluru is rapidly carving out its own niche. And it does this by playing host to a number of interesting restaurants that each mirror the city’s love for relaxed, ultra-casual dining with a focus on good food.
We bring you four such eateries, each poles apart from the other as far as cuisine and ambience is concerned, but each tied in together by the culinary philosophy of Bengaluru. One where the main focus is strongly on good food in environments that references the easy-going ethos of India’s Garden City!
Mikusu at Conrad Bengaluru
Ulsoor
Though prima facie—thanks to its delightfully onomatopoeic name—Mikusu at the Conrad Bengaluru might seem like a purely Japanese restaurant, the truth is that while it is one, it also prides itself on being an “Asiatic affair” featuring a mélange of Japanese, Chinese and Thai cuisine influences. All this is set against a luxurious, aesthetic backdrop that reflects a sophisticated Asian vibe. It achieves this with the help of key décor pieces such as a delicate cheery blossom branch-inspired light feature and a Japanese yukata art piece made from bits of Chinese blue pottery among other pieces. Overlooking the hotel’s verdant foliage outside its large floor-to-ceiling glass windows, Mikusu is an oasis of calm with a menu featuring some highly nuanced dishes and drinks. Sent out and curated by Executive Chef Praveen Shetty and Chef Rawat, expect to find dishes here such as the traditional Thai tom yom soup, spicy salmon sushi, vegetable futomaki, tuna sashimi, and mains from the kitchen such as sriracha lotus root and grilled fish with togarashi garlic. For desserts indulge yourself with a host of mouth-watering treats such as the passion fruit tiramisu, and the almost-sculptural looking strawberry religieuse and black forest entremets. A special mention for all you cocktail lovers: make sure to call for a curated range of exquisite sake-based and exotic Asia-inspired cocktails that are made table side by a bartender behind the restaurant’s specially purposed mobile cocktail cart.
GoNative
Lavelle Road
A true-blue, feel-good kind of a place, surrounded by a virtual forest of live plants and lush foliage, GoNative is a space of not just calm and serenity, but also one where good, honest-to-goodness food and beverages trump all. To begin with, the all-vegetarian, alcohol-free restaurant uses indigenous grains, pulses and spices that are consciously chosen for their positive impact towards the environment, society and wellness. Spread over two levels, the rather huge dining space features a host of seating options, ranging from a large communal-style table to smaller nooks for intimate gatherings—all lit wonderfully by lights and eco-friendly chandeliers made by GoNative’s in-house lighting brand called Oorjaa. But coming to the food, all their dishes celebrate traditional and familiar flavours in slightly unusual and contemporary ways. Dishes like the bright green soppu neer dosa served with a veg gassi, the innovative cabbage akki roti served with a gongura thokku and the filling banana, almond and date milkshake are also said to be made from pesticide-free ingredients, homemade condiments and fresh organic produce that are sourced from farms around Bengaluru. They also periodically change their menu to integrate seasonal fruits and vegetables into their dishes. This keeps the food light on the tummy, nutritious and healthy. But that’s not all for this eco warrior of a restaurant, not only does GoNative claim to segregate waste, but all organic matter is also composted, and their takeaway containers are biodegradable and plastic-free. Go green, GoNative seems to be the mantra here!
Foxtrot House of Subculture
Koramangala
Dubbing itself as a place modelled on a frat house, Foxtrot House of Subculture claims to be Bengaluru’s new address for good times. And we simply cannot get over the Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde kind of hybridity that this place is imbued with. A bustling coffeehouse focussed in the outdoor patio area during the day, Foxtrot transforms into a thriving cocktail bar indoors during the night with plush couches and crystal drop chandeliers creating the ambience. And as an added plus, Foxtrot is also the home to Mimansa, a health cafe, store, and studio for your daily yoga regimen. The menu here is a global mix of small plates and some large plate options, leaning towards forgotten, hyper-local Indian creations mixed with global ingredients and vice versa. It is divided into breakfast, brunch, south Indian menu, lunch trays with numerous dependable options like the beetroot galouti and the chicken tikka kulcha for snacks and the Tellicherry mutton boti and soya haleem for mains. Their signature cocktails like the lavender- and vodka-based poison ivy and the dark rum- and turmeric-based tornado are also quite impressive with a great mix of flavours. We like!
Cantan
Lavelle Road
Totally devoid of the expected and rather clichéd embellishments like plenty of calligraphy and Chinoiserie one finds at most Chinese restaurants today, Cantan is a like a gentle, refreshing breeze. Calling itself a ‘Chinese Bar House’, the twin-level restaurant nestled along the leafy Lavelle Road in the heart of Bengaluru is a rich multi-sensorial experience with as much subtle drama in its ambience as there is in its sumptuous fare. Speaking of the former, here you will encounter elements like the red dragons laying claim over the bar, the clay tile clad feature wall above the bar inspired by the Great Wall of China and lit-up panels, continuing design details from the lower floor as well as evoking a tea room. Crafted by Executive Chef Prashanth, a veteran in his field, the food’s central theme is inspired by Cantonese fare, specifically from Guangzhou. Think hearty hot pots, Shaokao style Chinese barbeque skewers of aromatic meats and vegetables ready for a wood-fire oven, cold plates, dainty dim sums, the freshest seafood tossed in house-made sauces, and a line-up of stellar signature cocktails like the plum and gin-based Cantan XO. For afters, don’t forget to leave some space for the pillow-y, cloud-like Cantonese steamed cheesecake with a zesty mulberry coulis to give the dessert that perfectly tart send off.
(A differently edited version of this piece was first published in the January 2020 issue of The Week's Smart Life magazine)
Monday, November 4, 2019
Themed Bites!
Cashing
in on the recent international trend of the ‘Themed Restaurant’ are a host of
interesting eateries across India where everything from a vintage train-themed
restaurant to one where you can buy the plate you’re eating on are drawing in
those seeking to dine with a difference.
(A differently edited version of this piece was first published in the November 2019 issue of The Week's Smart Life magazine)
By Raul Dias
Who amongst us doesn’t like an evening peppered with
loads of fun, laughs and great food and drink thrown into the mix? Enter the
themed restaurant where dining out is coupled with some true-blue innovation.
All this, in a setting that is almost phantasmagorical and deliciously thematic.
A worldwide phenomenon for the last few years, India is finally witnessing a
mighty surge in the themed restaurant.
The latest to come knocking on India’s doors is the robot restaurant that has become a sort of mainstay in places like Tokyo and Seoul. Staffed by a posse of humanoids with names like Arya, Ramya and Zoey, and simply called ‘Robot Restaurant’, this eatery in Bengaluru’s Indiranagar neighbourhood is drawing in diners by the drove since it opened in August this year.
We take a look at a few other such themed restaurants across the country. Places where there sure is a lot of dining room drama—both on and off the plate!
The latest to come knocking on India’s doors is the robot restaurant that has become a sort of mainstay in places like Tokyo and Seoul. Staffed by a posse of humanoids with names like Arya, Ramya and Zoey, and simply called ‘Robot Restaurant’, this eatery in Bengaluru’s Indiranagar neighbourhood is drawing in diners by the drove since it opened in August this year.
We take a look at a few other such themed restaurants across the country. Places where there sure is a lot of dining room drama—both on and off the plate!
Frontier
Mail
Turbaned servers dressed like train attendants help you climb onto your designated carriage from the mock ‘railway station’ recreated below, as they stack your coats and bags onto the overhead shelves. Said carriage is an exact replica—if a tad larger—of an actual train dining car, embellished with all the grandeur and glamour that was associated with train travel in the early 1900s. Yes, providing a unique dining experience, Frontier Mail at the majestic Noor Mahal Hotel in Karnal has been designed recreating the legendry Frontier Mail train that operated between Mumbai and Peshawar during pre-independence days. Wood panelled walls gleam in the light of crystal sconces, while you sit on richly-upholstered chairs facing a polished wooden table. Interestingly, the wooden planks one sees under the mock train compartment are the actual ones over which the Frontier Mail once used to run. Even the menu at Frontier Mail comprises of dishes from the regions through which the train made its initial journey. Here is where you get to indulge in everything from fragrant biryanis of the erstwhile North West Frontier Province to Indo-Western fusion dishes like blue cheese stuffed fish kebabs to even a Mumbai-style prawn curry. For afters, make sure to end your meal with a serving of the sublime paan-flavoured ice cream.
Turbaned servers dressed like train attendants help you climb onto your designated carriage from the mock ‘railway station’ recreated below, as they stack your coats and bags onto the overhead shelves. Said carriage is an exact replica—if a tad larger—of an actual train dining car, embellished with all the grandeur and glamour that was associated with train travel in the early 1900s. Yes, providing a unique dining experience, Frontier Mail at the majestic Noor Mahal Hotel in Karnal has been designed recreating the legendry Frontier Mail train that operated between Mumbai and Peshawar during pre-independence days. Wood panelled walls gleam in the light of crystal sconces, while you sit on richly-upholstered chairs facing a polished wooden table. Interestingly, the wooden planks one sees under the mock train compartment are the actual ones over which the Frontier Mail once used to run. Even the menu at Frontier Mail comprises of dishes from the regions through which the train made its initial journey. Here is where you get to indulge in everything from fragrant biryanis of the erstwhile North West Frontier Province to Indo-Western fusion dishes like blue cheese stuffed fish kebabs to even a Mumbai-style prawn curry. For afters, make sure to end your meal with a serving of the sublime paan-flavoured ice cream.
Noor Mahal Hotel,
NH1, Sector-32, Karnal (NCR).
Tel: 09996787884 / 891 / 892
Tel: 09996787884 / 891 / 892
Plum
by Bentchair
This new Mumbai restaurants takes the whole themed restaurant idea to another stratosphere with its sheer innovative brilliance. The result of the coupling between a hospitality and a furniture brand, Plum by Bentchair, which along with its sister restaurant of the same name in New Delhi’s plush Aerocity enclave, bills itself as India’s first true ‘retail restaurant’. Here the diner has the option of buying whatever catches their fancy in the breathtakingly beautiful and eclectic space nestled in city’s Kamala Mills restaurant super hub. From the furniture to the lights to the plates, everything is on sale. From the design aspect, the entire restaurant is a display area of different collections and is all about the minute details, which are colourful, kitsch and eye-catching. Every dimension is well-kept and blends into each other rather than being distinctive. As for the food, the Pan-Asian cuisine menu is composed of signature dishes like the black fungus and bamboo shoot salad, edamame truffle wontons and the divine East Asian curry pot, among scores of other yummies like their extensive range of sushi. Speaking of which, upping the ante as far as innovation in food is concerned, Plum sends out the wacky-yet-yum Nutella banana sushi for dessert.
This new Mumbai restaurants takes the whole themed restaurant idea to another stratosphere with its sheer innovative brilliance. The result of the coupling between a hospitality and a furniture brand, Plum by Bentchair, which along with its sister restaurant of the same name in New Delhi’s plush Aerocity enclave, bills itself as India’s first true ‘retail restaurant’. Here the diner has the option of buying whatever catches their fancy in the breathtakingly beautiful and eclectic space nestled in city’s Kamala Mills restaurant super hub. From the furniture to the lights to the plates, everything is on sale. From the design aspect, the entire restaurant is a display area of different collections and is all about the minute details, which are colourful, kitsch and eye-catching. Every dimension is well-kept and blends into each other rather than being distinctive. As for the food, the Pan-Asian cuisine menu is composed of signature dishes like the black fungus and bamboo shoot salad, edamame truffle wontons and the divine East Asian curry pot, among scores of other yummies like their extensive range of sushi. Speaking of which, upping the ante as far as innovation in food is concerned, Plum sends out the wacky-yet-yum Nutella banana sushi for dessert.
3rd Floor
Trade View Building, Kamala Mills Compound, Lower Parel, Mumbai.
Tel: 022-61344237
Tel: 022-61344237
The
Bedroom at The Flying Elephant
With an oddly incongruous name like ‘The Bedroom’, this themed section at the even more strangely named multi-leveled The Flying Elephant restaurant in Chennai revels in its rather playful nature. We’re informed that the reason it is called The Bedroom is because it is the most private portion of the otherwise high-energy restaurant. Precariously perched at the topmost level with a vertigo-inducing view of the rest of the gargantuan restaurant down below, this section seats up to 20 diners and is kitted out with silver-gold accents on the luxuriant upholstery and a bright red table. The space exudes a quiet luxury and makes a sophisticated style statement with a sparkling chandelier that is its focal point. Menus at The Bedroom are specially curated for the space. So that one can expect everything from succulent andana kebabs or hot pizzas from the wood-fired pizza oven to the decadent pork belly—a signature dish at The Flying Elephant. Some of the other creature comforts diners can indulge in here include both a private butler and a private bar dispensing yummy ‘Prohibition Era’ cocktails that hark back to America’s swinging 1920s.
With an oddly incongruous name like ‘The Bedroom’, this themed section at the even more strangely named multi-leveled The Flying Elephant restaurant in Chennai revels in its rather playful nature. We’re informed that the reason it is called The Bedroom is because it is the most private portion of the otherwise high-energy restaurant. Precariously perched at the topmost level with a vertigo-inducing view of the rest of the gargantuan restaurant down below, this section seats up to 20 diners and is kitted out with silver-gold accents on the luxuriant upholstery and a bright red table. The space exudes a quiet luxury and makes a sophisticated style statement with a sparkling chandelier that is its focal point. Menus at The Bedroom are specially curated for the space. So that one can expect everything from succulent andana kebabs or hot pizzas from the wood-fired pizza oven to the decadent pork belly—a signature dish at The Flying Elephant. Some of the other creature comforts diners can indulge in here include both a private butler and a private bar dispensing yummy ‘Prohibition Era’ cocktails that hark back to America’s swinging 1920s.
Park Hyatt Chennai,
39 Velachery Main Rd, Guindy, Chennai.
Tel: 044-71771655
Tel: 044-71771655
Prankster
Calling itself India’s first food and brewery campus—all inspired by the collegiate way of life—the rather playful and whimsical Prankster in Gurugram packs a mighty punch with an unbridled feeling of youthful energy, all thanks to its campus-like theme. The cuisine at this cool-n-casual first-storied restaurant can best be described as ‘progressive nostalgic’ where the chefs attempt to fuse numerous indigenous dishes with contemporary techniques and a twist. The extensive menu is peppered with innovative dishes like the choley kulche doughnut which is served with a gaajar achaar mousse, sambhar cappuccino and the nitro dahi bhalla savoury ice cream that not only evoke childhood memories but gives the diner of today a creative and innovative experience which one won’t forget in a hurry. Choose to spend your evening seated at one of the many campus zones like the library, the mixology lab, the amphitheatre or perhaps at the hostel room that is perfect for a private party with its bunk beds and study tables.
Calling itself India’s first food and brewery campus—all inspired by the collegiate way of life—the rather playful and whimsical Prankster in Gurugram packs a mighty punch with an unbridled feeling of youthful energy, all thanks to its campus-like theme. The cuisine at this cool-n-casual first-storied restaurant can best be described as ‘progressive nostalgic’ where the chefs attempt to fuse numerous indigenous dishes with contemporary techniques and a twist. The extensive menu is peppered with innovative dishes like the choley kulche doughnut which is served with a gaajar achaar mousse, sambhar cappuccino and the nitro dahi bhalla savoury ice cream that not only evoke childhood memories but gives the diner of today a creative and innovative experience which one won’t forget in a hurry. Choose to spend your evening seated at one of the many campus zones like the library, the mixology lab, the amphitheatre or perhaps at the hostel room that is perfect for a private party with its bunk beds and study tables.
8-9-10, Sector 29,
Main Market, Gurugram (NCR).
Tel: 0124-4266653
Tel: 0124-4266653
Tuesday, May 7, 2019
Soy Story!
The close-to-authentic flavours and generous portions
of some very affordable Pan Asian food more than make up for the rather dull,
uninspiring ambience at this brand new Bandra eatery.
By Raul Dias
Here’s a fair warning for those of us who suffer from
even the mildest form of claustrophobia. Take a deep breath before you enter
this hole-in-the-wall Pan Asian restaurant that sits tightly wedged between a
hair salon and a patisserie on Bandra West’s bustling Pali Naka road. Ignore
the four-table setup in the open-air courtyard and descend into its bowels to
the tiny, basement level dining room where you will find yourself sitting
almost elbow-to-elbow with other diners. And don’t forget to keep the conversation
PG13. For at Soy Pan Asian Kitchen, everyone can hear every single stray word
spoken…and even the odd one whispered!
But for us, what spoke the loudest of all was the food on offer. Not once missing the acute lack of any decent liquid sustenance on the menu (barring the ubiquitous canned cola and ginger ale offerings) we dove straight into the savoury section. Cosily ensconced in a bamboo steamer basket, our six, hefty pork dumplings (Rs 290) were each a juicy burst of umami goodness with the perfect dough to filling ratio. The well-seasoned, panko-crusted Japanese fried chicken tori karake (Rs 250) remined us more of a chicken katsu than a karake which are usually bite sized nuggets as opposed to the sliced breast portion we found on our plate.
Having just returned from the sweltering climes of Bangkok, we were taken straight back to its meandering sois with the very authentic and super reasonably priced som tum papaya salad (Rs190). Tart, sweet and salty—this iteration was packed with all the good things a refreshing Thai papaya salad should have. Falling off-the-bone tender and smothered in a star anise-redolent sauce, the BBQ pork ribs (Rs 390) had just the right amount of smoky flavour, ending with a slight hint of piquant bird eye chili.
Ten (yes, we counted!) plump prawns swimming in a thick Thai red curry (Rs 450) accompanied by the slightly astringent tasting pea aubergines was almost sublime when paired with jasmine rice (Rs 180), making for a memorable main. Though we wish we could have said the same for the cloyingly sweet chicken pad Thai (Rs 260), which although was enough to feed four, was left relatively intact by the end of our meal.
It would perhaps have done the chefs at Soy Pan Asian Kitchen a whole lot of good to use the surplus sugar of the pad Thai in the bland and watery tob tin crop (Rs 150) water chestnuts in coconut milk that seemed like the more reasonable dessert to call for, when compared to the only other one on the menu. We’re talking about the ridiculous priced mango cheese cake slice (Rs 450) that we’d probably order on a day when we’re feeling particularly self-indulgent!
But for us, what spoke the loudest of all was the food on offer. Not once missing the acute lack of any decent liquid sustenance on the menu (barring the ubiquitous canned cola and ginger ale offerings) we dove straight into the savoury section. Cosily ensconced in a bamboo steamer basket, our six, hefty pork dumplings (Rs 290) were each a juicy burst of umami goodness with the perfect dough to filling ratio. The well-seasoned, panko-crusted Japanese fried chicken tori karake (Rs 250) remined us more of a chicken katsu than a karake which are usually bite sized nuggets as opposed to the sliced breast portion we found on our plate.
Having just returned from the sweltering climes of Bangkok, we were taken straight back to its meandering sois with the very authentic and super reasonably priced som tum papaya salad (Rs190). Tart, sweet and salty—this iteration was packed with all the good things a refreshing Thai papaya salad should have. Falling off-the-bone tender and smothered in a star anise-redolent sauce, the BBQ pork ribs (Rs 390) had just the right amount of smoky flavour, ending with a slight hint of piquant bird eye chili.
Ten (yes, we counted!) plump prawns swimming in a thick Thai red curry (Rs 450) accompanied by the slightly astringent tasting pea aubergines was almost sublime when paired with jasmine rice (Rs 180), making for a memorable main. Though we wish we could have said the same for the cloyingly sweet chicken pad Thai (Rs 260), which although was enough to feed four, was left relatively intact by the end of our meal.
It would perhaps have done the chefs at Soy Pan Asian Kitchen a whole lot of good to use the surplus sugar of the pad Thai in the bland and watery tob tin crop (Rs 150) water chestnuts in coconut milk that seemed like the more reasonable dessert to call for, when compared to the only other one on the menu. We’re talking about the ridiculous priced mango cheese cake slice (Rs 450) that we’d probably order on a day when we’re feeling particularly self-indulgent!
TIME:
12pm to 12am
AT: Gasper Enclave CHS, Shop no 3, St. John’s Road, Pali Naka, Bandra West.
CALL: 9619616398
(An edited version of this review appeared in the 7th May 2019 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 22 https://www.mid-day.com/articles/soy-story/20890171)AT: Gasper Enclave CHS, Shop no 3, St. John’s Road, Pali Naka, Bandra West.
CALL: 9619616398
Thursday, April 4, 2019
Conceptually Yours!
Cashing in on the latest international trend of the ‘Concept Restaurant’ are a host of interesting eateries in the Delhi NCR where everything from themed restaurants to ones where you can buy the furniture are drawing in those seeking to dine with a difference.
By Raul Dias
Plum by Bentchair
The idea behind the inception of this unique conceptual restaurant is truly an interesting one! The product of a collaboration between a hospitality and a furniture brand, Plum, India’s first true ‘retail restaurant’ offers people the option of buying whatever catches their fancy in the breathtakingly beautiful and eclectic space nestled in city’s plush Aerocity super hub. From the furniture to the lights to the plates, everything is on sale. From the design aspect, the entire restaurant is a display area of different collections and is all about the small details, which are colourful, kitsch (in a good way!) and eye-catching. Every dimension is well-kept and blends into each other rather than being distinctive. As for the food, the Pan-Asian cuisine menu is replete with everything from the smoked eel nigiri to the crispy Thai lotus root and the spicy Cantonese barbeque chicken bao. With the striking, blue butterfly pea flower as the newest rage on the Indian dining scene, here too one can find the Thai ingredient in Plum’s iteration of crispy garlic fried rice with edamame. And for those still craving some sushi, the very innovative Nutella banana sushi seeks to remedy that.
The Walk, Worldmark 2, Aerocity, New Delhi-110037
Tel: 091-7303156444
Nueva
As Delhi’s first Peruvian cuisine restaurant, Nueva which means “new” in Spanish is pushing the boundaries as far as the city’s burgeoning concept restaurant scene is concerned. It does this to enormous success with both its stylish look and with its rather unfamiliar and exotic food offerings. The restaurant’s sophisticated, dark toned interiors and art deco accents are well-distributed between its three zones of the downstairs bar, the main dining hall and the angular 12-person private dining room on the first floor. Besides the strong presence of the expected Pervuian classics like shrimp and scallop ceviches and sushis—that reference the unique Japanese-Peruvian blend that’s known as Nikkei cuisine—there are also plenty of other Latin American dishes and drinks on the menu. From assados to dishes like the castila and saltado de carne, all bring that Latino flare to the experimental diner. Nueva even does a 12-course degustation menu where you can sample small portions of its menu’s top dishes.
Ground floor, Sangam Courtyard, R.K. Puram, New Delhi-110022
Tel: 011-65568382/9266668382
Unplugged Courtyard
Channelling the chilled-out vibe that transports you straight to the climes of Goa right in the heart of Gurgaon’s precinct of Udyog Vihar, this conceptual restaurant is welcoming, intimate and quite effortlessly dramatic. All that’s missing is the feel of the waves lapping at your toes! The space is understatedly elegant and generously spaced over 15,000 square feet spanning two levels, boasting of a terrace area, a secret garden and a quirky full-scale mock double decker bus that give the place a distinctly ‘comfy’ feel, without ever seeming over-designed. One of the few restaurants in this part of the NCR to offer daily, live acoustic music, Unplugged Courtyard truly lives up to its ‘unplugged’ concept. Offering up an eclectic mix of Indian, pan-Asian and Italian cuisine, the menu is designed and executed by ex-Noma, Copenhagen chef, Akshay Bhardwaj. Here, one can expect to experimental creations like duck kulchas and the atta chicken that’s baked whole covered by banana leave and a sealed with dough along with some beautifully presented drinks to sip on.
No 9 Convenience Shopping Complex, Phase II, Udyog Vihar, Sector 20, Gurgaon-122012
Tel: 091-9319892965
Le Cirque
Literally meaning ‘The Circus’, the concept-driven Le Cirque is all about the fun and the whimsical set in a chic and sophisticated atmosphere. From the beautifully-appointed bar lounge and the three spacious dining rooms to the alfresco seating with breath-taking views of New Delhi’s majestic Diplomatic Enclave, the 144-seat restaurant is drama personified. Even the exquisite porcelain Bernardaud tableware with its balloon motif mirror the restaurant’s playful side. As for the food, each of the items offered remain true to the Le Cirque vision of classic, yet innovative French-Italian cuisine. Signature dishes include seafood classics like the turbot àla grenoblaise where the fish is served with cauliflower, lemon, capers and almonds and the paupiette of black cod. For afters indulge in the two must-haves—cannoli and the floating island ‘Le Cirque’.
The Leela Palace New Delhi, Chanakyapuri, Diplomatic Enclave, New Delhi-110023
Tel: 011-39331220
Swad
Bringing an interesting desi twist to the NCR’s new-found conceptual dining scene is this all-vegetarian multicuisine restaurant that serves dishes with a quirky spin to them. Imbued with plenty of kitschy elements, the contemporary-meets-Irani cafe inspired décor of the restaurant gives it a casual and relaxed vibe. Here you can tuck into interestingly presented dishes like the masala paneer slider that is injected with makhani gravy, the aloo-wadi curry that comes to the table in a small red pressure cooker or the kulhad wale palak chole chawal that’s served upside down. From the menu’s western and Asian sections, you can pick from Indianised renditions of everything from Mexican chimichanga rolls to the spicy Bangkok Manchurian bowl—never mind the geographical inaccuracies of the words ‘Bangkok’ and ‘Manchurian’ put together in the same sentence!
43, Ground Floor, Chiranjivi Tower, Nehru Place, New Delhi-110019
Tel: 091-9821524232
Enter, the concept nightclub!
Toy Room
Riding the coattails of the concept restaurant boom in the Delhi NCR is this very unique ‘concept nightclub’. With a cuddly teddy bear named ‘Frank’ as its mascot, this 400-seater place is filled with children’s toys and other fun imagery—all in an entertaining, high-octane setting, bringing a subtle innocence to some hardcore partying. The interiors of Toy Room are chic, yet vibrant and quirky. The grand entrance lobby housed with a special merchandise area is dominated by a whimsical rendition of the classic last supper painting. Meander through the narrow passage leading to the main hall which is a L-shaped space with a huge curvilinear island bar serving a range of libations. Interestingly, for a nightclub, the food on offer here is an excellent selection of tapas style, small plates of sushis, dimsum and one of the best iterations of a simple pizza margherita you’ll ever have in the NCR.
ALOFT Hotel Aerocity, Aerocity, New Delhi- 110037
Tel: 091-9953137673
By Raul Dias
Plum by Bentchair
The idea behind the inception of this unique conceptual restaurant is truly an interesting one! The product of a collaboration between a hospitality and a furniture brand, Plum, India’s first true ‘retail restaurant’ offers people the option of buying whatever catches their fancy in the breathtakingly beautiful and eclectic space nestled in city’s plush Aerocity super hub. From the furniture to the lights to the plates, everything is on sale. From the design aspect, the entire restaurant is a display area of different collections and is all about the small details, which are colourful, kitsch (in a good way!) and eye-catching. Every dimension is well-kept and blends into each other rather than being distinctive. As for the food, the Pan-Asian cuisine menu is replete with everything from the smoked eel nigiri to the crispy Thai lotus root and the spicy Cantonese barbeque chicken bao. With the striking, blue butterfly pea flower as the newest rage on the Indian dining scene, here too one can find the Thai ingredient in Plum’s iteration of crispy garlic fried rice with edamame. And for those still craving some sushi, the very innovative Nutella banana sushi seeks to remedy that.
The Walk, Worldmark 2, Aerocity, New Delhi-110037
Tel: 091-7303156444
Nueva
As Delhi’s first Peruvian cuisine restaurant, Nueva which means “new” in Spanish is pushing the boundaries as far as the city’s burgeoning concept restaurant scene is concerned. It does this to enormous success with both its stylish look and with its rather unfamiliar and exotic food offerings. The restaurant’s sophisticated, dark toned interiors and art deco accents are well-distributed between its three zones of the downstairs bar, the main dining hall and the angular 12-person private dining room on the first floor. Besides the strong presence of the expected Pervuian classics like shrimp and scallop ceviches and sushis—that reference the unique Japanese-Peruvian blend that’s known as Nikkei cuisine—there are also plenty of other Latin American dishes and drinks on the menu. From assados to dishes like the castila and saltado de carne, all bring that Latino flare to the experimental diner. Nueva even does a 12-course degustation menu where you can sample small portions of its menu’s top dishes.
Ground floor, Sangam Courtyard, R.K. Puram, New Delhi-110022
Tel: 011-65568382/9266668382
Unplugged Courtyard
Channelling the chilled-out vibe that transports you straight to the climes of Goa right in the heart of Gurgaon’s precinct of Udyog Vihar, this conceptual restaurant is welcoming, intimate and quite effortlessly dramatic. All that’s missing is the feel of the waves lapping at your toes! The space is understatedly elegant and generously spaced over 15,000 square feet spanning two levels, boasting of a terrace area, a secret garden and a quirky full-scale mock double decker bus that give the place a distinctly ‘comfy’ feel, without ever seeming over-designed. One of the few restaurants in this part of the NCR to offer daily, live acoustic music, Unplugged Courtyard truly lives up to its ‘unplugged’ concept. Offering up an eclectic mix of Indian, pan-Asian and Italian cuisine, the menu is designed and executed by ex-Noma, Copenhagen chef, Akshay Bhardwaj. Here, one can expect to experimental creations like duck kulchas and the atta chicken that’s baked whole covered by banana leave and a sealed with dough along with some beautifully presented drinks to sip on.
No 9 Convenience Shopping Complex, Phase II, Udyog Vihar, Sector 20, Gurgaon-122012
Tel: 091-9319892965
Le Cirque
Literally meaning ‘The Circus’, the concept-driven Le Cirque is all about the fun and the whimsical set in a chic and sophisticated atmosphere. From the beautifully-appointed bar lounge and the three spacious dining rooms to the alfresco seating with breath-taking views of New Delhi’s majestic Diplomatic Enclave, the 144-seat restaurant is drama personified. Even the exquisite porcelain Bernardaud tableware with its balloon motif mirror the restaurant’s playful side. As for the food, each of the items offered remain true to the Le Cirque vision of classic, yet innovative French-Italian cuisine. Signature dishes include seafood classics like the turbot àla grenoblaise where the fish is served with cauliflower, lemon, capers and almonds and the paupiette of black cod. For afters indulge in the two must-haves—cannoli and the floating island ‘Le Cirque’.
The Leela Palace New Delhi, Chanakyapuri, Diplomatic Enclave, New Delhi-110023
Tel: 011-39331220
Swad
Bringing an interesting desi twist to the NCR’s new-found conceptual dining scene is this all-vegetarian multicuisine restaurant that serves dishes with a quirky spin to them. Imbued with plenty of kitschy elements, the contemporary-meets-Irani cafe inspired décor of the restaurant gives it a casual and relaxed vibe. Here you can tuck into interestingly presented dishes like the masala paneer slider that is injected with makhani gravy, the aloo-wadi curry that comes to the table in a small red pressure cooker or the kulhad wale palak chole chawal that’s served upside down. From the menu’s western and Asian sections, you can pick from Indianised renditions of everything from Mexican chimichanga rolls to the spicy Bangkok Manchurian bowl—never mind the geographical inaccuracies of the words ‘Bangkok’ and ‘Manchurian’ put together in the same sentence!
43, Ground Floor, Chiranjivi Tower, Nehru Place, New Delhi-110019
Tel: 091-9821524232
Enter, the concept nightclub!
Toy Room
Riding the coattails of the concept restaurant boom in the Delhi NCR is this very unique ‘concept nightclub’. With a cuddly teddy bear named ‘Frank’ as its mascot, this 400-seater place is filled with children’s toys and other fun imagery—all in an entertaining, high-octane setting, bringing a subtle innocence to some hardcore partying. The interiors of Toy Room are chic, yet vibrant and quirky. The grand entrance lobby housed with a special merchandise area is dominated by a whimsical rendition of the classic last supper painting. Meander through the narrow passage leading to the main hall which is a L-shaped space with a huge curvilinear island bar serving a range of libations. Interestingly, for a nightclub, the food on offer here is an excellent selection of tapas style, small plates of sushis, dimsum and one of the best iterations of a simple pizza margherita you’ll ever have in the NCR.
ALOFT Hotel Aerocity, Aerocity, New Delhi- 110037
Tel: 091-9953137673
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the April 2019 issue of Jetwings in-flight magazine of Jet Airways http://www.jetairways.com/EN/IN/jetexperience/magazines.aspx)
Tuesday, October 16, 2018
Yummy Bite off the Big Apple!
With a menu peppered with tasty American diner-style comfort food, made and presented as close to authentic as possible, Bandra’s New York City Diner is a great, new addition to the city’s casual dining scene.
By Raul Dias
As one of Mumbai’s most well-respected and pioneering restaurateurs, Chef Meldan D’Cunha has always had firm grip on the pulse of the city’s dining habits. The same man who gave us the Mangalorean cuisine-centric Soul Fry (when regional cuisine eateries were still in their embryonic stage!) and then Casa Soul Fry, now brings to Mumbai’s shores an authentic taste of American diner-style comfort food with his latest offering—New York City Diner. Interestingly, this Bandra Reclamation eatery opened just a few days after he shut down his wildly popular restobar, The Local in Fort.
A smallish, cozy space paying homage to all things New York—from the kitschy pop culture posters on the walls to the apple red couch and metallic chairs—this diner exudes a chilled out, relaxed vibe that seems to be attracting the student brigade by the droves. We are told by the manager that the inspiration behind the diner came to Chef Meldan on a recent trip to the US when he went there for his daughter’s wedding and was bowled over by the food truck scene in New York and neighbouring New Jersey.
And so, we take a cue from that and call for an order of the disco fries (Rs 220) that are a New Jersey diner classic. Slathered in a yummy cheese sauce and sprinkled with bits of bacon, olives and BBQ chicken, the generous portion of potato fries makes for a great start. Though described as a single slice on the menu, the jalapeno and basil pizza slice (Rs 150) came to our table cut in three hefty wedges, each one an explosion of molten cheese and herbaceous basil with the piquant-sour hit of pickled jalapeno rounding it off perfectly.
Suitably straightforward, if a tad ho-hum and bland, our cranberry spritzer (Rs 40) was nothing much to talk about, but its buy-one-get-one-free accompanying coconut spritzer (Rs 40) had a unique, creamy coconut-y taste that made it seem more like a milkshake than a carbonated drink. Speaking of milkshakes, the blueberry and jim-jam Manhattan extreme shake (Rs 240) using the insanely delicious berry overload ice cream by Koldplay was worth every paisa…and calorie too!
Perfectly messy, the kind that requires a minimum of five paper napkins to clean up, the lamb sloppy joe (Rs 240) accompanied by a moat of crisp tapioca chips was all the things a great sandwich should be. Gooey, meaty and making for messy satisfaction! Disappointment reared its ugly head with the duo of dry, under-stuffed chicken cafreal buns (Rs 120) that we suspect was a sort of one off ode on the menu to the erstwhile The Local. Totally avoidable.
For mains, we settled for a few diner classics one of which took the form of a plate heaped with biscuits and chicken gravy (Rs 280). A chunky, minced chicken white sauce gravy jazzed up with pepper and nutmeg, slathered over six buttery, crumbly savoury biscuits and topped off with a shredded omelette was one of the best renditions of the southern American dish we’d ever eaten. Another south classic, the shrimps and grits with bacon (Rs 380) was the comforting sum of 7-8 juicy, plump crustaceans cooked with cheese and bacon, sat atop a bed of buttery grits, which is a savoury porridge made from coarsely ground cornmeal, butter and milk, and drizzled with chilli oil to cut through all that richness.
While we’d go back in a heartbeat just for that one single dish, there’s so much more we’d like to try the next time we find ourselves at New York City Diner. Buttermilk fried chicken (Rs 320), we have our eyes on you!
TIME: 11am to 11pm
AT: Shop no. 20, ONGC Colony, Opposite Lilavati Hospital, Reclamation, Bandra West.
CALL: 9820282522
(A shorter, edited version of this review appeared in the 16th October 2018 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 19 https://m.mid-day.com/articles/mumbai-food-american-diner-style-eatery-in-bandra-is-a-crowd-pleaser/19895163)
By Raul Dias
As one of Mumbai’s most well-respected and pioneering restaurateurs, Chef Meldan D’Cunha has always had firm grip on the pulse of the city’s dining habits. The same man who gave us the Mangalorean cuisine-centric Soul Fry (when regional cuisine eateries were still in their embryonic stage!) and then Casa Soul Fry, now brings to Mumbai’s shores an authentic taste of American diner-style comfort food with his latest offering—New York City Diner. Interestingly, this Bandra Reclamation eatery opened just a few days after he shut down his wildly popular restobar, The Local in Fort.
A smallish, cozy space paying homage to all things New York—from the kitschy pop culture posters on the walls to the apple red couch and metallic chairs—this diner exudes a chilled out, relaxed vibe that seems to be attracting the student brigade by the droves. We are told by the manager that the inspiration behind the diner came to Chef Meldan on a recent trip to the US when he went there for his daughter’s wedding and was bowled over by the food truck scene in New York and neighbouring New Jersey.
And so, we take a cue from that and call for an order of the disco fries (Rs 220) that are a New Jersey diner classic. Slathered in a yummy cheese sauce and sprinkled with bits of bacon, olives and BBQ chicken, the generous portion of potato fries makes for a great start. Though described as a single slice on the menu, the jalapeno and basil pizza slice (Rs 150) came to our table cut in three hefty wedges, each one an explosion of molten cheese and herbaceous basil with the piquant-sour hit of pickled jalapeno rounding it off perfectly.
Suitably straightforward, if a tad ho-hum and bland, our cranberry spritzer (Rs 40) was nothing much to talk about, but its buy-one-get-one-free accompanying coconut spritzer (Rs 40) had a unique, creamy coconut-y taste that made it seem more like a milkshake than a carbonated drink. Speaking of milkshakes, the blueberry and jim-jam Manhattan extreme shake (Rs 240) using the insanely delicious berry overload ice cream by Koldplay was worth every paisa…and calorie too!
Perfectly messy, the kind that requires a minimum of five paper napkins to clean up, the lamb sloppy joe (Rs 240) accompanied by a moat of crisp tapioca chips was all the things a great sandwich should be. Gooey, meaty and making for messy satisfaction! Disappointment reared its ugly head with the duo of dry, under-stuffed chicken cafreal buns (Rs 120) that we suspect was a sort of one off ode on the menu to the erstwhile The Local. Totally avoidable.
For mains, we settled for a few diner classics one of which took the form of a plate heaped with biscuits and chicken gravy (Rs 280). A chunky, minced chicken white sauce gravy jazzed up with pepper and nutmeg, slathered over six buttery, crumbly savoury biscuits and topped off with a shredded omelette was one of the best renditions of the southern American dish we’d ever eaten. Another south classic, the shrimps and grits with bacon (Rs 380) was the comforting sum of 7-8 juicy, plump crustaceans cooked with cheese and bacon, sat atop a bed of buttery grits, which is a savoury porridge made from coarsely ground cornmeal, butter and milk, and drizzled with chilli oil to cut through all that richness.
While we’d go back in a heartbeat just for that one single dish, there’s so much more we’d like to try the next time we find ourselves at New York City Diner. Buttermilk fried chicken (Rs 320), we have our eyes on you!
TIME: 11am to 11pm
AT: Shop no. 20, ONGC Colony, Opposite Lilavati Hospital, Reclamation, Bandra West.
CALL: 9820282522
(A shorter, edited version of this review appeared in the 16th October 2018 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 19 https://m.mid-day.com/articles/mumbai-food-american-diner-style-eatery-in-bandra-is-a-crowd-pleaser/19895163)
Friday, October 12, 2018
High is Not Always Mighty
With a confusing menu, lacklustre food and drink and far-from-attentive service, the only saving grace of this new 14th story Goregaon restobar is the view on offer…
By Raul Dias
Paying homage to the city of Bombay in more ways than one, least of all with its pun-ridden name, the two-month-old Bomb’ar’s greatest—and perhaps, only—ace up its sleeve is its rather atmospheric location. Perched on the 14th floor of a high-rise in Goregaon West, overlooking the commercial superhub that is the Inorbit Mall and offering an eye full of the lush, green hills of Filmcity in the east, this restobar rides high. With plenty of natural light streaming in, the out-of-place-during-the-day strobe lights seem woefully redundant. The less said about the indigestion-causing thumping beats amplified from the DJ booth at 1pm the better.
A large black and white portrait of Marilyn Monroe with a kitten stares down at you as you make yourself comfortable at a table that’s surrounded by cobalt blue chairs and matching, tufted couches. Both the food and drinks’ menu are further peppered with plenty of ‘Bombay’ puns. Take for instance the cocktail that we call for. Worli’s sea breeze (Rs 450) comes to the table replete with high drama in a glass beaker shrouded in a dry ice-induced haze. But sadly, that is the only thing good about this weak, watery drink that leaves us seriously doubting the presence of the alleged gin and white rum pours to its lemon thyme and honey parts.
Again, the glorious view assuages our low spirits (pun intended!). And while the thick, double-glazed glass window panels manage to filter out the din from the traffic below, a murder of crows seem super-curious with what’s going on at our table, as they incessantly peck at the glass from outside. Well, at least someone seems interested in us! That’s much more than we can say for the lethargic, uninformed wait staff. Water tumblers beg to be topped off, while orders are bungled up royally.
Even a simple request for an explanation of a dish like the conversation starter platter (Rs 355) foxes them enough for the manager to come to our rescue. Well, in case you were wondering, the platter is made up of a trio of starters like soggy paani puris served with a shot of tasteless mint water, paapdi chaat with boiled potato cubes doused in sour, beaten yogurt that seems to have gone bad and a serving of an innovative sounding, but badly executed, over-spiced lamb shammi kebab ‘dahi bhalla’ again slathered with that same stale dahi.
Hoping our mains fare better, we anxiously await our order of yellow prawn curry served with basil fried rice (Rs 525). Though generously portioned with 5-6 plump specimens, the prawn curry is a sickly sweet, gloopy mess that we have to will down our throats with all our might. The rice is a little ray of hope with its fluffy mouthfeel and peppery basil hit. Our other main, the chicken steak in devilled sauce (Rs 495), though stinting on its promise of miso-terragon butter sees two juicy, well-grilled breast fillets swimming in a sauce that tastes deceptively of ketchup. And not in a good way.
Disappointment rears its ugly head once again when it’s time for dessert. The apple and pear crumble tart (Rs 175) is the sum of a gritty, over sweetened apple sauce sitting atop a raw, under-baked shortcrust pastry shell and served with four blobs of artificial, non-dairy (we asked!) whipped cream. The side of ‘cinnamon’ ice cream has none of that comforting warmth that the fragrant spice imparts and tastes like any other pedestrian vanilla scoop.
Now, if only the view could have filled our bellies like it did our hearts…
TIME: 11am to 1am
AT: 14th Floor, 1st Avenue, Off Goregaon-Malad Link Road, Goregaon West.
CALL: 9136080052/53
(A shorter, edited version of this review appeared in the 12th October 2018 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 30 https://m.mid-day.com/articles/mumbai-food-bombar-will-leave-you-bombed-out/19884154)
By Raul Dias
Paying homage to the city of Bombay in more ways than one, least of all with its pun-ridden name, the two-month-old Bomb’ar’s greatest—and perhaps, only—ace up its sleeve is its rather atmospheric location. Perched on the 14th floor of a high-rise in Goregaon West, overlooking the commercial superhub that is the Inorbit Mall and offering an eye full of the lush, green hills of Filmcity in the east, this restobar rides high. With plenty of natural light streaming in, the out-of-place-during-the-day strobe lights seem woefully redundant. The less said about the indigestion-causing thumping beats amplified from the DJ booth at 1pm the better.
A large black and white portrait of Marilyn Monroe with a kitten stares down at you as you make yourself comfortable at a table that’s surrounded by cobalt blue chairs and matching, tufted couches. Both the food and drinks’ menu are further peppered with plenty of ‘Bombay’ puns. Take for instance the cocktail that we call for. Worli’s sea breeze (Rs 450) comes to the table replete with high drama in a glass beaker shrouded in a dry ice-induced haze. But sadly, that is the only thing good about this weak, watery drink that leaves us seriously doubting the presence of the alleged gin and white rum pours to its lemon thyme and honey parts.
Again, the glorious view assuages our low spirits (pun intended!). And while the thick, double-glazed glass window panels manage to filter out the din from the traffic below, a murder of crows seem super-curious with what’s going on at our table, as they incessantly peck at the glass from outside. Well, at least someone seems interested in us! That’s much more than we can say for the lethargic, uninformed wait staff. Water tumblers beg to be topped off, while orders are bungled up royally.
Even a simple request for an explanation of a dish like the conversation starter platter (Rs 355) foxes them enough for the manager to come to our rescue. Well, in case you were wondering, the platter is made up of a trio of starters like soggy paani puris served with a shot of tasteless mint water, paapdi chaat with boiled potato cubes doused in sour, beaten yogurt that seems to have gone bad and a serving of an innovative sounding, but badly executed, over-spiced lamb shammi kebab ‘dahi bhalla’ again slathered with that same stale dahi.
Hoping our mains fare better, we anxiously await our order of yellow prawn curry served with basil fried rice (Rs 525). Though generously portioned with 5-6 plump specimens, the prawn curry is a sickly sweet, gloopy mess that we have to will down our throats with all our might. The rice is a little ray of hope with its fluffy mouthfeel and peppery basil hit. Our other main, the chicken steak in devilled sauce (Rs 495), though stinting on its promise of miso-terragon butter sees two juicy, well-grilled breast fillets swimming in a sauce that tastes deceptively of ketchup. And not in a good way.
Disappointment rears its ugly head once again when it’s time for dessert. The apple and pear crumble tart (Rs 175) is the sum of a gritty, over sweetened apple sauce sitting atop a raw, under-baked shortcrust pastry shell and served with four blobs of artificial, non-dairy (we asked!) whipped cream. The side of ‘cinnamon’ ice cream has none of that comforting warmth that the fragrant spice imparts and tastes like any other pedestrian vanilla scoop.
Now, if only the view could have filled our bellies like it did our hearts…
TIME: 11am to 1am
AT: 14th Floor, 1st Avenue, Off Goregaon-Malad Link Road, Goregaon West.
CALL: 9136080052/53
(A shorter, edited version of this review appeared in the 12th October 2018 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 30 https://m.mid-day.com/articles/mumbai-food-bombar-will-leave-you-bombed-out/19884154)
Wednesday, October 3, 2018
Where Indulgence Meets Style!
From the subtle elegance of an elaborate, multi-course
Japanese feast to experimental riffs on Indian and Thai cuisine and a whole lot
more in between, Delhi NCR has an impressive selection of fine dining
restaurants. We bring you a serving of the top places in the capital to enjoy a
stylish and indulgent meal at.
By Raul Dias
Megu
Imbued with a sense of subtle elegance, combined with delectable modern Japanese cuisine, world class service and cutting-edge yet serene aesthetics, Megu at The Leela Palace New Delhi is your best fine dine bet for an elevated Japanese meal experience in the city. Take your pick from a curated menu that comprises of dishes like the hamachi carpaccio, and the sublime Megu original crispy asparagus, each presented in a specially-designed handcrafted bowl inspired by the dish itself. Besides being the first and only restaurant in the city to offer sparkling sake, the wine list at Megu is impressive with nearly 400 labels including some of the world’s best like Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Richebourg and Petrus among others that perfectly complement the culinary odyssey on offer.
Imbued with a sense of subtle elegance, combined with delectable modern Japanese cuisine, world class service and cutting-edge yet serene aesthetics, Megu at The Leela Palace New Delhi is your best fine dine bet for an elevated Japanese meal experience in the city. Take your pick from a curated menu that comprises of dishes like the hamachi carpaccio, and the sublime Megu original crispy asparagus, each presented in a specially-designed handcrafted bowl inspired by the dish itself. Besides being the first and only restaurant in the city to offer sparkling sake, the wine list at Megu is impressive with nearly 400 labels including some of the world’s best like Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Richebourg and Petrus among others that perfectly complement the culinary odyssey on offer.
The Leela Palace New
Delhi, Chanakyapuri, Diplomatic Enclave,
New Delhi-110023
Tel: 011-39331360
Tel: 011-39331360
Indian
Accent
The plaudits that this iconic, Modern Indian fine dining haven has amassed over the years are staggering. Chief among these is the fact that Indian Accent at The Lodhi has been securing a top spot on San Pellegrino’s list of Asia’s top 50 restaurants for years. With the celebrated Chef Manish Mehrotra at the helm of things, expect a multi-sensory roller-coaster ride punctuated with experimental dishes like the sublime duck khurchan that is presented in a cornetto-like cone with chilli chutney and the crisp tandoori naans that are indulgently stuffed with blue cheese. And the setting? Contemporary chic at its finest!
The plaudits that this iconic, Modern Indian fine dining haven has amassed over the years are staggering. Chief among these is the fact that Indian Accent at The Lodhi has been securing a top spot on San Pellegrino’s list of Asia’s top 50 restaurants for years. With the celebrated Chef Manish Mehrotra at the helm of things, expect a multi-sensory roller-coaster ride punctuated with experimental dishes like the sublime duck khurchan that is presented in a cornetto-like cone with chilli chutney and the crisp tandoori naans that are indulgently stuffed with blue cheese. And the setting? Contemporary chic at its finest!
The Lodhi, Lodhi
Road, Pragati Vihar, New Delhi-110003
Tel: 011-66175151
Tel: 011-66175151
Bo
Tai
Just
like the clever play on words that make up its unusual name, Bo Tai is a fine
dining contemporary Thai cuisine restaurant with a twist. Neatly halved into two
distinct zones by a graceful peepul tree, the dark wood- and glass-clad space offers
a beautiful glimpse of the city’s famed Qutub Minar. But it’s certainly not all
about the stunning space that Bo Tai inhabits. Its scrumptious fare on offer
does its own bidding. Expect to be won over by dishes like the experimental carpaccio
of scallops served with a lychee sorbet and the more de rigueur massaman chicken curry along with a whole
palate-pleasing range of modern Thai dishes.
6/4, Kalka Das Marg,
Mehrauli Road, New Delhi-110030
Tel: 091-9870587770
Tel: 091-9870587770
La
Brezza
Neatly perched next to a lush golf course, La Brezza the two-storey fine dining Italian restaurant at the Jaypee Greens Golf and Spa Resort is conceptualised as a traditional fine dining Italian restaurant with a modern twist. Along with its wine bar ‘Enoteca’, La Brezza creates an intimate setting accentuated with soft mood lighting. Endowing the palate with fine, authentic Italian flavours, the menu boasts of dishes like the paper-thin carpaccio di tonno of sashimi quality tuna, the pan-seared prawns gamberetti piccanti and the lightly fried buffalo mozzarella spiked with tangy tomato sauce make up a delicious trio of different flavours and textures for the antipasti, while mains like the roasted lobster with a pomegranate sauce, served on a bed of buttered asparagus is decadence personified.
Neatly perched next to a lush golf course, La Brezza the two-storey fine dining Italian restaurant at the Jaypee Greens Golf and Spa Resort is conceptualised as a traditional fine dining Italian restaurant with a modern twist. Along with its wine bar ‘Enoteca’, La Brezza creates an intimate setting accentuated with soft mood lighting. Endowing the palate with fine, authentic Italian flavours, the menu boasts of dishes like the paper-thin carpaccio di tonno of sashimi quality tuna, the pan-seared prawns gamberetti piccanti and the lightly fried buffalo mozzarella spiked with tangy tomato sauce make up a delicious trio of different flavours and textures for the antipasti, while mains like the roasted lobster with a pomegranate sauce, served on a bed of buttered asparagus is decadence personified.
Jaypee Greens Golf
and Spa Resort, G Block, Surajpur Kasna Road, Noida-201306
Tel: 0120-6743000
Tel: 0120-6743000
Jamavar
With its name borrowed from the famous artisanal jamavar shawls of Kashmir, the Indian cuisine fine dining restaurant Jamavar carries on the centuries-old saga of elegance and drama that forms the core elements of the distinctive cooking styles and rituals of India’s ancient nobility. All this in a setting dominated by hand carved wooden screens and decorative jamavars of gold and silverwork that are set against the entrance. Here you get to experience innovative dining with a culinary passion that spans the entire spectrum of Indian cuisine. The signature dishes at Jamavar include the subtle yogurt and garam masala-rich tandoori jhinga, the coriander-mint-curry leaf marinated murg ki chaap and mains like the nizami tarkari biryani that’s cooked on dum and the emerald-hued spinach all-time favourite palak paneer. End this culinary journey with dessert in the form of the signature Jamavar mishtan which is the delicious sum of its rose petal ice cream, almond halwa and khajoor ka khaja parts!
With its name borrowed from the famous artisanal jamavar shawls of Kashmir, the Indian cuisine fine dining restaurant Jamavar carries on the centuries-old saga of elegance and drama that forms the core elements of the distinctive cooking styles and rituals of India’s ancient nobility. All this in a setting dominated by hand carved wooden screens and decorative jamavars of gold and silverwork that are set against the entrance. Here you get to experience innovative dining with a culinary passion that spans the entire spectrum of Indian cuisine. The signature dishes at Jamavar include the subtle yogurt and garam masala-rich tandoori jhinga, the coriander-mint-curry leaf marinated murg ki chaap and mains like the nizami tarkari biryani that’s cooked on dum and the emerald-hued spinach all-time favourite palak paneer. End this culinary journey with dessert in the form of the signature Jamavar mishtan which is the delicious sum of its rose petal ice cream, almond halwa and khajoor ka khaja parts!
The Leela Palace New
Delhi, Chanakyapuri, Diplomatic Enclave,
New Delhi-110023
Tel: 011- 39331280
Tel: 011- 39331280
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the October 2018 issue of Go-Getter, the in-flight magazine of Go Airways)
Tuesday, September 4, 2018
Dessert 2.0
Once relegated to being merely functional, end of the
main meal sweet closing acts, desserts today have upped their ante. And how! Be
it with their unusual ingredients or totally outré presentation styles, they
truly are out there. We’ve curated a list of six of Mumbai’s most fantastical
desserts that have been elevated from the depth of being “just desserts” to
edible pieces of art.
By Raul Dias
Zen Pebbles at Typhoon Shelter
Designed to befuddle the diner—what with it being served together with a few real pebbles—this faux pebble dish is pure, undiluted drama on a platter. Accompanied to the table by a burning sage leaf bouquet, this dessert is conceived by dessert chef Solanki Roy and is available at Mumbai’s brand-new Sichuan-Cantonese cuisine restaurant, Typhoon Shelter. With her training in the weird-n-wacky approach to food at the über-experimental Gaggan Bangkok where she worked earlier, Chef Roy merged traditional flavours with a refreshingly contemporary approach to bring out this brilliant dessert. So, here we find two distinctly flavoured ‘pebbles’: one filled with a creamy caramel-vanilla mousse and the other with a hazelnut crunch. Both are then coated in a melted white chocolate exterior. The marble-like swirls on the pebbles are courtesy of a colour bath that they are dipped into and left to dry. And voila! You have in front of you one of Mumbai’s, nay, India’s most bizarre, yet yummy desserts.
At S-3, Second floor, Skyzone, Phoenix Mill Compound, Lower Parel, Mumbai-400013
Call 022-49193100
Cost Rs 1,195
Designed to befuddle the diner—what with it being served together with a few real pebbles—this faux pebble dish is pure, undiluted drama on a platter. Accompanied to the table by a burning sage leaf bouquet, this dessert is conceived by dessert chef Solanki Roy and is available at Mumbai’s brand-new Sichuan-Cantonese cuisine restaurant, Typhoon Shelter. With her training in the weird-n-wacky approach to food at the über-experimental Gaggan Bangkok where she worked earlier, Chef Roy merged traditional flavours with a refreshingly contemporary approach to bring out this brilliant dessert. So, here we find two distinctly flavoured ‘pebbles’: one filled with a creamy caramel-vanilla mousse and the other with a hazelnut crunch. Both are then coated in a melted white chocolate exterior. The marble-like swirls on the pebbles are courtesy of a colour bath that they are dipped into and left to dry. And voila! You have in front of you one of Mumbai’s, nay, India’s most bizarre, yet yummy desserts.
At S-3, Second floor, Skyzone, Phoenix Mill Compound, Lower Parel, Mumbai-400013
Call 022-49193100
Cost Rs 1,195
Literally gliding all the way to your table, this totally wacky dessert at Mumbai’s hip-n-happening Thai-Robata restaurant Izaya, makes a dramatic entry alright. Enough to have the whole restaurant stop in its tracks and gawp! The Levitating Dacquoise—sitting pretty in a glass bowl—hovers gently above a black plastic base, all thanks to the quantum mechanical effect called diamagnetism. Here, an applied magnetic field, both, at the base of the specially made glass bowl, and atop the black base stand, creates an induced magnetic field in the opposite direction, causing a repulsive force which makes the bowl levitate. The dacquoise itself is a super light confection that is made up of Belgian Callebaut chocolate, Normandy Chantilly cream and Mahabaleshwar strawberries (when in season). A garnish of small almond meringues, edible nasturtium flowers, micro greens and gold leaf finishes off this almost-theatrical production with a flourish.
At NCPA, Gate No. 2, Nariman Point, Mumbai-400021
Call 022-22821212
Cost Price on request
The Godfather at The Runway Project
A signature of the menu at the super stylish The Runway Project restaurant, the equally stylish The Godfather dessert is a great trick on the senses. Inspired by the cult classic movie The Godfather that left an inedible mark and made an iconic fashion statement in the man’s world of style with slicked back hair and dark suits, the look continues to create a stir even today and, on your plate, too! So, what you have here is a dark Madagascar chocolate edible cigar-like shell that’s filled with a coffee cremeux and almond brittle tiramisu-center that opens with a waft of hickory smoke. The dessert comes with a real label of a cigar customised for The Runway Project to be carefully removed before indulging into it. The pleasure of smoking a ‘cigar’ while indulging in your dessert, now that’s The Godfather for you.
At 462 High Street Phoenix, Phoenix Mill Compound, Lower Parel, Mumbai-400013
Call 022-49151000
Cost Rs 575
A signature of the menu at the super stylish The Runway Project restaurant, the equally stylish The Godfather dessert is a great trick on the senses. Inspired by the cult classic movie The Godfather that left an inedible mark and made an iconic fashion statement in the man’s world of style with slicked back hair and dark suits, the look continues to create a stir even today and, on your plate, too! So, what you have here is a dark Madagascar chocolate edible cigar-like shell that’s filled with a coffee cremeux and almond brittle tiramisu-center that opens with a waft of hickory smoke. The dessert comes with a real label of a cigar customised for The Runway Project to be carefully removed before indulging into it. The pleasure of smoking a ‘cigar’ while indulging in your dessert, now that’s The Godfather for you.
At 462 High Street Phoenix, Phoenix Mill Compound, Lower Parel, Mumbai-400013
Call 022-49151000
Cost Rs 575
Black Marble Sesame Cheese Cake at Foo
Cottoning onto the black coloured food craze that has gripped the world of fine dining across the globe, this brand-new, Asian-style tapas restaurant—Foo—shows off its experimental side with this dramatic-looking, blackish-grey dessert made using a very traditional Asian and Indian sweet ingredient—sesame. Giving a fillip to the classic cheesecake, the black marble sesame cheese cake is the sum of its cream cheese, black sesame paste, and sour cream parts. Keeping the presentation simple, to let the rather non-conformist colours of this dessert show up, it is served atop a stone platter, with almond crumbs, a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a seasons sauce made out of mascarpone, sugar, cream and sesame paste drizzled all over it.
At Phoenix Mill Compound, High Street Phoenix, Lower Parel, Mumbai-400013
Call +91-8657407773
Cost Rs 350
Cottoning onto the black coloured food craze that has gripped the world of fine dining across the globe, this brand-new, Asian-style tapas restaurant—Foo—shows off its experimental side with this dramatic-looking, blackish-grey dessert made using a very traditional Asian and Indian sweet ingredient—sesame. Giving a fillip to the classic cheesecake, the black marble sesame cheese cake is the sum of its cream cheese, black sesame paste, and sour cream parts. Keeping the presentation simple, to let the rather non-conformist colours of this dessert show up, it is served atop a stone platter, with almond crumbs, a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a seasons sauce made out of mascarpone, sugar, cream and sesame paste drizzled all over it.
At Phoenix Mill Compound, High Street Phoenix, Lower Parel, Mumbai-400013
Call +91-8657407773
Cost Rs 350
Zen Forest at The Fatty Bao
Images of a moss-covered forest floor—gnarly twigs, et al—in autumn come to mind the minute this beautifully presented dish is put in front of you. Reflective of nature in all its pristine beauty, Zen Forest, a hot favourite at the pan-Asian restaurant The Fatty Bao, is a rather complex creation. As beautiful as it is to look at, the dessert takes even better. An amalgamation of multiple elements that come together perfectly on a platter, here, each element offers something special. The green tea moss and chocolate give a bit of sweet and bitterness, the yuzu parfait imparts a refreshing citrus favour, black sesame sponge and white sesame nougatine give the nuttiness and crunch element to the dessert. Whereas the bright pink-coloured beetroot sorbet along with the black pepper sorbet give it an earthy taste. Micro-greens round the dessert off, giving it a fresh herb-y taste.
At 2A, Trade View Building, Kamala Mills Compound, Lower Parel, Mumbai-400013
Call 022-62371500
Cost Rs 265
Images of a moss-covered forest floor—gnarly twigs, et al—in autumn come to mind the minute this beautifully presented dish is put in front of you. Reflective of nature in all its pristine beauty, Zen Forest, a hot favourite at the pan-Asian restaurant The Fatty Bao, is a rather complex creation. As beautiful as it is to look at, the dessert takes even better. An amalgamation of multiple elements that come together perfectly on a platter, here, each element offers something special. The green tea moss and chocolate give a bit of sweet and bitterness, the yuzu parfait imparts a refreshing citrus favour, black sesame sponge and white sesame nougatine give the nuttiness and crunch element to the dessert. Whereas the bright pink-coloured beetroot sorbet along with the black pepper sorbet give it an earthy taste. Micro-greens round the dessert off, giving it a fresh herb-y taste.
At 2A, Trade View Building, Kamala Mills Compound, Lower Parel, Mumbai-400013
Call 022-62371500
Cost Rs 265
This pretty-looking deconstructed version of the traditional Latin American, three-milk dessert of tres leches served at Luna, the European fine dining restaurant at The St. Regis has plenty of dramatic twists to it. To begin with, as mentioned before it is a deconstructed iteration which means that its butter cake-base is soaked in three kinds of milk: evaporated milk, condensed milk, and heavy cream and scattered all over the platter and not grouped together as in the traditional version. But here’s the most interesting twist, the milk that we’re alluding to is not any ordinary milk, but the tangy, much-acquired taste of goat’s milk. This takes the form of a wobbly panna cotta that is accompanied by granules of dehydrated 6% fat milk, a milk espuma and a milk micro sponge. The garnish is that of a shard of crystallised sugar, berries and micro greens.
At The St. Regis Mumbai, 462, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel, Mumbai-400013
Call 022- 61628422
Cost Rs 950
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the September 2018 issue of Go-Getter, the in-flight magazine of Go Airways)
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