Dessert 2.0

Once relegated to being merely functional, end of the main meal sweet closing acts, desserts today have upped their ante. And how! Be it with their unusual ingredients or totally outré presentation styles, they truly are out there. We’ve curated a list of six of Mumbai’s most fantastical desserts that have been elevated from the depth of being “just desserts” to edible pieces of art. 

 

By Raul Dias

Zen Pebbles at Typhoon Shelter
Designed to befuddle the diner—what with it being served together with a few real pebbles—this faux pebble dish is pure, undiluted drama on a platter. Accompanied to the table by a burning sage leaf bouquet, this dessert is conceived by dessert chef Solanki Roy and is available at Mumbai’s brand-new Sichuan-Cantonese cuisine restaurant, Typhoon Shelter. With her training in the weird-n-wacky approach to food at the über-experimental Gaggan Bangkok where she worked earlier, Chef Roy merged traditional flavours with a refreshingly contemporary approach to bring out this brilliant dessert. So, here we find two distinctly flavoured ‘pebbles’: one filled with a creamy caramel-vanilla mousse and the other with a hazelnut crunch. Both are then coated in a melted white chocolate exterior. The marble-like swirls on the pebbles are courtesy of a colour bath that they are dipped into and left to dry. And voila! You have in front of you one of Mumbai’s, nay, India’s most bizarre, yet yummy desserts.
At S-3, Second floor, Skyzone, Phoenix Mill Compound, Lower Parel, Mumbai-400013
Call 022-49193100
Cost Rs 1,195

The Levitating Dacquoise at Izaya
Literally gliding all the way to your table, this totally wacky dessert at Mumbai’s hip-n-happening Thai-Robata restaurant Izaya, makes a dramatic entry alright. Enough to have the whole restaurant stop in its tracks and gawp! The Levitating Dacquoise—sitting pretty in a glass bowl—hovers gently above a black plastic base, all thanks to the quantum mechanical effect called diamagnetism. Here, an applied magnetic field, both, at the base of the specially made glass bowl, and atop the black base stand, creates an induced magnetic field in the opposite direction, causing a repulsive force which makes the bowl levitate. The dacquoise itself is a super light confection that is made up of Belgian Callebaut chocolate, Normandy Chantilly cream and Mahabaleshwar strawberries (when in season). A garnish of small almond meringues, edible nasturtium flowers, micro greens and gold leaf finishes off this almost-theatrical production with a flourish.   
At NCPA, Gate No. 2, Nariman Point, Mumbai-400021
Call 022-22821212
Cost Price on request

The Godfather at The Runway Project
A signature of the menu at the super stylish The Runway Project restaurant, the equally stylish The Godfather dessert is a great trick on the senses. Inspired by the cult classic movie The Godfather that left an inedible mark and made an iconic fashion statement in the man’s world of style with slicked back hair and dark suits, the look continues to create a stir even today and, on your plate, too! So, what you have here is a dark Madagascar chocolate edible cigar-like shell that’s filled with a coffee cremeux and almond brittle tiramisu-center that opens with a waft of hickory smoke. The dessert comes with a real label of a cigar customised for The Runway Project to be carefully removed before indulging into it. The pleasure of smoking a ‘cigar’ while indulging in your dessert, now that’s The Godfather for you.
At 462 High Street Phoenix, Phoenix Mill Compound, Lower Parel, Mumbai-400013
Call 022-49151000
Cost Rs 575

Black Marble Sesame Cheese Cake at Foo
Cottoning onto the black coloured food craze that has gripped the world of fine dining across the globe, this brand-new, Asian-style tapas restaurant—Foo—shows off its experimental side with this dramatic-looking, blackish-grey dessert made using a very traditional Asian and Indian sweet ingredient—sesame. Giving a fillip to the classic cheesecake, the black marble sesame cheese cake is the sum of its cream cheese, black sesame paste, and sour cream parts. Keeping the presentation simple, to let the rather non-conformist colours of this dessert show up, it is served atop a stone platter, with almond crumbs, a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a seasons sauce made out of mascarpone, sugar, cream and sesame paste drizzled all over it.   
At Phoenix Mill Compound, High Street Phoenix, Lower Parel, Mumbai-400013
Call +91-8657407773
Cost Rs 350

Zen Forest at The Fatty Bao
Images of a moss-covered forest floor—gnarly twigs, et al—in autumn come to mind the minute this beautifully presented dish is put in front of you. Reflective of nature in all its pristine beauty, Zen Forest, a hot favourite at the pan-Asian restaurant The Fatty Bao, is a rather complex creation. As beautiful as it is to look at, the dessert takes even better. An amalgamation of multiple elements that come together perfectly on a platter, here, each element offers something special. The green tea moss and chocolate give a bit of sweet and bitterness, the yuzu parfait imparts a refreshing citrus favour, black sesame sponge and white sesame nougatine give the nuttiness and crunch element to the dessert. Whereas the bright pink-coloured beetroot sorbet along with the black pepper sorbet give it an earthy taste. Micro-greens round the dessert off, giving it a fresh herb-y taste.
At 2A, Trade View Building, Kamala Mills Compound, Lower Parel, Mumbai-400013
Call 022-62371500
Cost Rs 265

Tres Leches With Goat Milk Panna Cotta at Luna
This pretty-looking deconstructed version of the traditional Latin American, three-milk dessert of tres leches served at Luna, the European fine dining restaurant at The St. Regis has plenty of dramatic twists to it. To begin with, as mentioned before it is a deconstructed iteration which means that its butter cake-base is soaked in three kinds of milk: evaporated milk, condensed milk, and heavy cream and scattered all over the platter and not grouped together as in the traditional version. But here’s the most interesting twist, the milk that we’re alluding to is not any ordinary milk, but the tangy, much-acquired taste of goat’s milk. This takes the form of a wobbly panna cotta that is accompanied by granules of dehydrated 6% fat milk, a milk espuma and a milk micro sponge. The garnish is that of a shard of crystallised sugar, berries and micro greens.
At The St. Regis Mumbai, 462, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel, Mumbai-400013
Call 022- 61628422
Cost Rs 950

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the September 2018 issue of  Go-Getter, the in-flight magazine of Go Airways) 

Who put the savoury in my dessert?

From kidney beans and goat’s cheese to olive oil as dessert ingredients—and a whole lot more in between—restaurants around the city are pushing the envelope as far as their new summer desserts are concerned, with many that seemed to have merrily skipped off the savoury menu onto the desserts’ one!

By Raul Dias

Pink Peppercorn Mousse with Passion Fruit Curd
Now, usually desserts end on a sweet note. But in this case, the idea behind it was to create a combination of a sweet taste with a strong sharpness to the palate. Bordering on spicy, but yet, clearly a sweet, summery dessert, this one is the quirky sum of its rather incongruous (yet supremely complementary) parts! A visually vibrant dessert is an infusion of 70% dark cocoa that has a bitter sweet taste mixed with pink peppercorns. It is further enhanced by the sweet and sour passion fruit curd and edible chocolate soil that completes it.
Chef Speak: “The inspiration behind this dessert was the pink peppercorn as an ingredient. It is versatile in nature and is vastly used in European and Mediterranean cuisine. But in this case, we wanted to experiment with it in a dessert course. The blending of ingredients that leads to a combination of sharpness and sweetness lends that ‘X Factor’ to the dessert.”
- Chef Anil J, executive chef, Razzberry Rhinoceros
Price: Rs 375
Available at: Razzberry Rhinoceros, Juhu

Wasabi Ice Cream Sandwich with Fried Nori Strips
Think of a typical K Rustom ice cream sandwich. Now, imagine it going to Japan and retuning back! Voila, you’ve decoded this sinus-busting dessert that is composed of a thick slab of piquant wasabi ice cream ensconced by two malt shortbreads and served up with crisp, fried nori seaweed sheets. Dripping (quite literally!) with nostalgia, this bordering-on-savoury dessert has done so well with diners since the restaurant opened two months ago, that the team is planning to add two more rather outré flavours; pan pasand and gulkand.
Chef Speak: “We wanted to make a modern dessert drawing inspiration from our childhood’s nostalgic elements. K Rustom ice cream sandwich has been part of our lives for the longest time. Hence, we came up with the idea of an ice cream sandwich. I have a background of oriental food and the (restaurant’s) owner Aditya and I thought of making a wasabi ice cream sandwich with nori strips.”
-Chef Sandeep Moktan, executive chef, Gymkhana 91
Price: Rs 235
Available at: Gymkhana 91, Lower Parel

Manila Halo Halo Sundae
This red kidney bean-redolent iteration of Halo Halo is an ode to the popular cold-savoury-sweet dessert that is served across The Philippines, from roadside stands to ritzy hotels. Dished out in a champagne coupe, the dessert combines shaved ice with condensed milk and generous piles of sweetened kidney beans, jellies, and rice crisps. The Halo Halo is a representation of a broader spectrum of other Southeast Asian desserts—like Cendol from Indonesia, Ais Kacang from Malaysia—where savoury element like cream corn, kidney beans, chestnuts are combined with shaved ice to which a sweet component that comes from either syrupy sweet condensed milk or rose syrup are added.
Chef Speak: “According to me, the best dessert that The Philippines has to offer is the Halo Halo. It’s a complete dessert snack with the perfect balance of sweet and savoury that’ll satisfy you till the very last bite. It’s an explosion of different flavours and texture, and is the perfect summer coolant for a hot summer day.”
-Chef Paul Kinny, culinary director, Shizusan Shophouse & Bar
Price: Rs 295
Available at: Shizusan Shophouse & Bar, Lower Parel

White Chocolate Parfait with Goat’s Cheese Ice Cream and Beetroot Sponge
This one’s the perfect example of one of those bizarre pairings that make you go, “What, really!?”, much like dark chocolate and chilly—another knockout combo, if there ever was one. But in this case, it is the smoothness of the white chocolate and the tartness of a goat’s cheese ice cream that work their magic together in this dessert. All this, ably supported by ‘supporting acts’ like microwave beetroot sponge and raspberry colie along with some dehydrated raspberries that finish off this culinary chimera.
Chef Speak: “Cheese and ice cream isn’t the most common combination, but the flavour harmony they create is unmatched. I like how it compliments certain dishes, like this one, when used in the right proportions—never too much, just a splash for subtle floral notes.”
- Chef Yogendra Adep, chef de cuisine, Luna Gusta at The St. Regis Mumbai
Price: Rs 650
Available at: Luna Gusta at The St. Regis Mumbai, Lower Parel

Basil Ice Cream with Olive Oil and Pine Nuts
The very idea of sitting down to a dessert of basil ice cream with olive oil and pine nuts may seem a bit nuts (do pardon the pun!) to most. But trust us when we say, that this pesto-esque ice cream is perhaps, the best rendition of olive oil used innovatively that we’ve seen in a very long time! Interestingly, the genesis of this rather outré dessert is a result of a spin-off of The Sassy Spoon’s very popular basil fondant with its gooey, herbaceous green core that has its own legion of sweet-toothed fans.
Chef Speak: “I used olive oil was because I was actually thinking along the lines of pesto and the ingredients that go into making a good pesto. Apart from the parmesan and garlic in a savoury pesto, I felt these flavours worked well together and the olive oil also gives a nice, smooth texture, with the pine nuts adding a lovely bite to the ice cream.”
-Chef Rachel Goenka, CEO/owner and chef, The Sassy Spoon
Price: Rs 100 per scoop
Available at: The Sassy Spoon at Nariman Point and Bandra

(A shorter, edited version of this article appeared in the 22nd April 2017 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India http://www.mid-day.com/articles/food-news-mumbai-restaurants-summer-desserts/18187189)