Saturday, April 28, 2018

Less Pros, More Cins!



By Raul Dias

Claiming to be modelled on the lines of a typical Venitian bacaro, where the homestyle food is fast and the conversation rough, Cin Cin couldn’t be more different. A well-lit, sophisticated space that was crammed full of a mix of the BKC corporate and the ladies-who-lunch crowd the afternoon we visited, the restaurant exudes a hip, stylish vibe. It also intelligently divests itself of the usual tropes one has come to expect of a casual dining, Italian restaurant in India.
This means that thankfully, clichés like terracotta wall/floor/counter top tiles and the ubiquitous, on-display wood-fired pizza oven find no place here. But sadly, Italian restaurant requisites like the all-important bread basket (complimentary or otherwise) and the olive oil-balsamic beakers too are missing and fail to show up at our table, despite requesting for them.
It’s the same story with the serving cutlery that the staff very reluctantly supplied us with after much coaxing. Apparently, the food here is designed for individual portions we are told, thus debunking the whole ‘family-style dining’ philosophy that Cin Cin proclaims is its USP. With the focus on Italian home cooking, pasta dishes feature prominently on the menu, including staples such as bucatini all’amatriciana, garganelli and other classic home-cooked dishes such as risotto and gnocchi.
Almost an hour into placing our order, our table finally saw some food action. The well-made ricotta and parmesan stuffed cappelletti pasta doused with an intensely meaty pork ragu was spot on perfect, though we could have done with a more generous portion of it. Intrigued by its rather verbose name, we called for the Filipa goes foraging pizza. The twinning of the portobello and porcini mushrooms with roasted garlic, sitting atop a pliant, not-too-thin crust base made this 12-inch pie a winner all the way.
One sip of to-my-Tina, the watered down, insipid tomato juice-based gin cocktail was enough to send it back to where it came from. Our free replacement of the high on tequila, low on taste tegroni Aperol cocktail had us abandon the idea of having a drink here completely. We finally settled for the alcohol-free fennel and dill fizz that was ho-hum at its very best.
Suitably al dente Arborio rice spiked with orange zest, holding within it fresh, succulent prawns with a drizzle of lemon olive oil, was the risotto gamberi e agrumi that passed the good risotto test with flying colours. However, once again disappointment made its presence felt as we took a bite out of the tre latti con berries dessert. The mushy sum of its crumbly vanilla sponge and thin, runny milk custard parts with a sad duo of frozen blueberries garnishing it, this one fell flat, both literally and figuratively!
Ditch the drinks and desserts and concentrate on the food. Now, that is one mantra we’d do well to chant the next time we find ourselves at Cin Cin. If ever.


WHAT: Cin Cin
RATING: ** (2 out of 5)
WHERE: Ground Floor, Raheja Towers, Near Dena Bank, BKC, Bandra East
WHEN: 12 pm to 1 am
COST: Around Rs 3,800 for two, with one cocktail each
CALL: 6995-6666


(An edited version of this review appeared in the 28th April 2018 issue of the Hindustan Times newspaper, India on page 15 https://m.hindustantimes.com/mumbai-news/a-hit-and-miss-italian-job-raul-dias-reviews-cin-cin/story-QjjOtAb21pFOjrlNXWqn4M_amp.html


Tuesday, April 24, 2018

Unusual Summer Sips


This summer, why not cool down with these refreshing alcohol-free heat busters that have as their main ingredients a few unusual suspects? From dill and hibiscus to rhubarb and rooibos tea…take your pick!



By Raul Dias

Rhubarb in…
Rhubarbie Doll
Never mind the rather corny pun in its name, this summer drink celebrates a very unusual ingredient like rhubarb with great enthusiasm. Generally used in the west to make jams and dessert sauces, in this mocktail, the tart rhizome is first made into a pulp. A simple syrup of sugar and water is the base, to which diced rhubarb is added along with white wine vinegar to sharpen the flavour. This rhubarb pulp is then shaken with lemon juice, pineapple and cranberry juices and topped with ginger beer.  
At Olive Bar & Kitchen, 14 Union Park, Khar West.
Call 43408229
Cost
Rs 220


Fennel and Dill in…
Fennel and Dill Fizz
Served in highball glass, this blushing pink summer cooler is a built-up drink that is the refreshing sum of its fennel stem, and dill leaf parts. Once muddled together, the fragrant, herbaceous mix is topped up with ginger ale, elder flower and cranberry juice and garnished with a dill frond. The main notes that dominate the drink are of fennel and dill, which are naturally sweet in flavour, herbaceous in aroma and extremely zesty.
At Cin Cin, Ground Floor, Raheja Towers, Near Dena Bank, BKC, Bandra East.
Call 69956666
Cost Rs 205


Thyme and Rosemary in…
Trend Setter

Reminiscent of one of our favourite Simon and Garfunkle songs—Scarborough Fair—in whose lyrics thyme stands for courage and rosemary, love, this drink is just what one needs to beat the heat! Jasmine tea, maple syrup, pineapple juice, rosemary and thyme are all blended together to form Trend Setter that is served enveloped in a cloud of dry ice smoke. Sprigs of thyme and rosemary complete the look of this tasty, herbaceous drink.

At The Daily Bar and Kitchen, Ground Floor, Behind Shoppers Stop, SV Road, Bandra West.
Call
9930795318
Cost
Rs 450


Rooibos Tea in…
Spiced Passion

Calling rooibos a ‘tea’ is actually a misnomer. A type of herb belonging to the Fabaceae family of plants that can be found growing in South Africa, this tummy soothing herb is legendary for its calming properties. Distilling this goodness into an alcohol-free drink for summer are the guys at The Kettlery. The drink is made up of a tangy lemonade base that is flavoured with fresh rosemary, ginger bread and pumpkin tea. This tea is decocted from rooibos and blended with the intense flavours of gingerbread and pumpkin.

At The Kettlery, Unit no 1, 2nd Floor, Hotel Horizon 37, Juhu Beach, Juhu.
Call
67414777
Cost
Rs 300


Rosemary in…
Summer Fizz
With a pink-peach ombre effect to it, this layered mocktail has fresh pomegranate muddled with a homemade rosemary syrup. It is then topped off with lime juice, chilled green tea, and fizzy soda water. Served in a fluted Hawaiian glass, the drink is garnished with a rosemary sprig, pomegranate seeds and edible flowers. Because, what’s summer without a bit of fresh, herby floral action?
At Nom Nom, 1&2, Ground Floor, Delux Mahal Building, 16th Road, Pali Hill, Bandra West.
Call 8291881320/21
Cost
Rs 225


Dried Hibiscus Flowers in…
Hibiscus
Known multifariously as jamaica in Latin America, roselle in South Africa and karkade in the Middle East, the blood red extract of the dried hibiscus flower is the ultimate summer coolant. Displaying its versatility as the main ingredient in this eponymous mocktail, steeped hibiscus tea is combined with a sweet and sour syrup and topped off with soda water. All this, resulting in an all-natural drink that lets the tart taste of the dried flowers shine through.  
At The Clearing House, 13-15 Calicut Street, Ballard Estate.
Call
22683030
Cost
Rs 235



(An edited version of this article appeared in the 24th April 2018 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 23 https://www.mid-day.com/articles/try-these-unique-alcohol-free-drinks-with-a-plant-based-twist-in-mumbai/19351185)

Friday, April 20, 2018

Oh-Man!


Known as “The Norway of Arabia” thanks to its mighty fjords, the rugged Musandam Peninsula is not only the most northerly governorate of the Sultanate of Oman, but also the place to indulge your every adventure-laced fantasy—from snorkeling with dolphins to fossil hunting—as Raul Dias discovers.




While the Musandam Peninsula may not be very large at just about 3,000 sq km, this northern most governorate of Oman is also its most stunning with its dramatic fjords, picturesque rocky inlets and vertiginous mountains that seem to plunge into the sea below. Separated from the mainland of Oman by the UAE, getting into Khasab, Musandam’s capital is possible by a short flight from Muscat. While the drive overland involves several border crossings with the UAE and thus not recommended.
Commanding a strategic position, jutting out into one of the busiest shipping lanes of the world—the Strait of Hormuz—much of Musandam’s attractions lie along its rugged coastline that easily serves as the Middle Eastern doppelganger of the mighty fjords of Norway. No wonder then, that this part of the country is known by its moniker of “The Norway of Arabia”.
Here are a few ways to make the most of your trip to this ‘other’, cliché-busting side of the Middle East:

Of Ancient Fossils, Petroglyphs and Rock Carvings…
Jebel Harim or ‘Mountain of Women’ is the first stop for most travellers seeking adventure in this part of Oman. And their purpose is singular: to scope out the pre-historic fossils of molluscs and trilobites found in abundance over the slopes of this once sub-oceanic mountain that today stands proud, 2,087 mt above the very sea level that it once lay submerged under.
Equally dramatic are the petroglyphs in the mountain village of Sayah. Surrounded by lush palm and acacia trees and the dry river beds called wadis, it’s the rock paintings that command serious attention on this plateau. Over 3,000 years old, the petroglyphs’ depiction of ancient agrarian scenes are vivid and striking even today, thanks to the ‘paint’ mixture of sulphur and pigeon droppings.
Turning left at the village of Qida about 4 km from Khasab, along the coastal road to Bukha will reward you with a view of the magnificent rock carvings the village is known for. Similarly, the village of Tawi, at the far end of the wadi, is where you can come across fine examples of rock art that show dramatic depictions of warriors and animals in action.

Cruise the Fjords Aboard a Traditional Omani Dhow
Back on sea-level, sailing the intriguing lapis lazuli-hued waters of the Arabian Sea is a great way to get a bit of aquatic action into your Musandam trip. Take a four-hour long cruise in a traditional wooden ship called a dhow that careens from Khasab Harbour, along the waters surrounding the 17 km-long Musandam fjords.
While munching on the sweetest khallas variety of dates, bowlfuls of saffron-rich Omani halwa and potent shots of kahwa coffee dispensed out of a gleaming gold coffee pot called a dallah, chart you own courses of action as the dhow drops anchor off Telegraph Island. An island that once served as a repeater station to boost telegraphic messages along the Persian Gulf submarine cable (part of the London to Karachi telegraphic cable) for the British when they occupied parts of Oman in the mid-19th century, today Telegraph Island is a rubble-ridden tourist pit stop.
And while some of you can kit yourselves out in snorkelling gear and slice though the cool, coral-infested waters of the fjords, others can hone their kayaking skills. Or perhaps, loose yourself in the soundtrack of the day — provided by pods of friendly dolphins who follow the dhow, squeaks and clicks pat in place!

An Infusion of History and Culture
Why not end your day in Musandam with a bit of history and culture thrown in for good measure? Once you de-board the dhow, you will find yourself at the mighty gates of the Khasab Castle, a stone’s throw from the harbour. Now converted into a museum, this picturesque stronghold was constructed in the 17th century by the Portuguese who were seeking dominion over the maritime trade on the Strait of Hormuz in nearby Iran, which can easily be seen from the castle’s ramparts. A series of rooms and exhibits depict traditional Omani life and trade. Don’t miss out on checking out the central tower where there’s a small display of local Musandam axes.
A short walk away from the castle is the smaller Kamadra Fort which affords sublime mountain views from the battlements. A perfect spot to watch the sun sink into the depths of the Arabian Sea as the night sky takes on a shimmery, star-spangled cover!

FACT FILE
Getting there
The best way to get to Khasab is by a short 40 minutes flight on Oman Air from Oman’s capital Muscat. There are three daily direct flights from Mumbai to Muscat on Oman Air (www.omanair.com). Indian passport holders need a visa to enter Oman. With a new e-visa system introduced, visiting Oman has just become a lot easier to those who are coming to the Sultanate on holiday, business or just to visit.

Getting around
Travel within Khasab is easy with many taxis plying between its neighbourhoods. It is also possible to hire a vehicle for a self-drive vacation; do note that in Oman vehicles are driven on the right side of the road.

When to visit
With Northern Oman enjoying a pleasant climate during the Autumn, Winter and Spring seasons, the best months to travel to the Musandam Peninsula are from November to March. Summers from April to October can get very hot.

Accommodation
The town of Khasab has an excellent selection of hotels to choose from to suit all budgets and tastes. Some of the best options are:
* Atana Musandam (www.atanahotels.com)
* Khasab Hotel (www.khasabhotel.net)

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 20th April 2018 issue of the Afternoon Despatch & Courier newspaper, India on pages 18 and 19 http://www.afternoondc.in/48-hrs/oh-man/article_221212)

Monday, April 16, 2018

To Malaysia and Back!


With its close-to-authentic Malaysian flavours and presentation style, the food on offer at this new Andheri (E) restaurant is almost spot on, bringing to the city a taste of the hitherto unknown Peranakan cuisine of South East Asia.     




FOOD Flavourful
SERVICE Excellent
AMBIENCE Vibrant
COST Moderate
VERDICT Very Good (**)

By Raul Dias

The Peranakans of South East Asia—in particular Malaysia and Singapore—are a unique blend of people thanks to their confluence of cultures, and most importantly, cuisines. The result of the intermarriage of Chinese merchants and local Malay women centuries ago, Peranakan men are known as ‘Babas’, while the women, ‘Nonyas’. Legendary for their prowess in the kitchen, it is these Nonyas who are responsible for the complex, highly flavoured dishes that see influences from Chinese, Malay, Thai and even Indian cookery styles and ingredients.
Distilling this cocktail of cultures in a menu that’s mostly Peranakan is the recently opened Nonya. Done up in bright, cheery accents and upholstery, with a whimsical ‘bubble’ chandelier hanging overhead, the first-floor space was virtually empty the afternoon we visited. Thus, affording us the luxury of the staff’s undivided attention which they lavished upon us rather enthusiastically.
When our first choice of the orange pekoe bubble tea (Rs 195), was discovered to be unavailable on that day, our server immediately suggested, nay, insisted we try the lavender lemonade (Rs 145). With a subtle hint of lavender, imparting to it a pink-purple tint, and balancing perfectly with the fresh lime juice, the fizzy drink was just what we needed to counter the blazing heat we’d just escaped outdoors.
Thick and luscious with all the requisite condiments like lime wedges, fresh sprouts, soy sauce and crushed peanuts in place, our seafood Malaysian curried laksa (Rs 275) was fiendishly good. Though the presence of the de rigueur sliced boiled egg, that was missing in this iteration, would have elevated it even higher, we enjoyed the toothsome appeal of the egg noodles, fresh mussels, clams and prawns in the Peranakan classic.
The twice cooked duck burger (Rs 325) that we called for next made for messy satisfaction with its chili plum sauce-coated BBQ duck slices and the cool-yet-spicy hit of the wasabi coleslaw, all ensconced in a soft, pliant sesame bun. Though a tad overpriced, the robustly spiced massaman curry (Rs 675) with tender bits of lamb served with fragrant jasmine rice, reminded us of the ones we’d recently eaten on a trip to Penang. Our other main, the all-vegetarian Buddha bowl (Rs 395)—which had ginger-soy dressed broccoli, baby corn and snow peas sitting atop garlic fried flat rice noodles—was light and flavourful with suitably al dente noodles.
Sadly, our choice of dessert—the Malay favourite of iced kachang (Rs 195) was a total abomination and fell flat. Substituting the expected coconut milk with cloyingly sweet condensed milk, drizzled atop shaved ice, jazzed up with luridly coloured synthetic syrups and overcooked, stewed fruit bits, Nonya’s version was as far from a kachang as Kurla is from Kuala Lumpur!
Barring that niggling dessert fiasco, our meal here was almost perfect. But then again, is there ever something such as ‘the perfect meal’?

TIME: 11am to 1am
AT: 1st floor, Hotel Ginger, Teli Galli, Opposite Hubtown Solaris, Andheri East.
CALL: 7400403462

(An edited version of this review appeared in the 16th April 2018 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 20 https://www.mid-day.com/articles/mumbai-food-try-southeast-asian-flavours-at-this-new-eatery-in-andheri/19324176

Sunday, April 15, 2018

Restaurant Reviews by Raul Dias in Hindustan Times, Mumbai -Part 4

A-N-A-T-O-M-I-Z-E: d’Arenberg Cube



By Raul Dias

The mid-1980s was perhaps the time when the popularity of the Rubik’s Cube had reached its zenith, when the 3-D combination puzzle—created by Hungarian sculptor and professor of architecture Ernő Rubik—was the hottest thing invented since sliced bread! But like all trends, this one too proved to be ephemeral and was soon forgotten. Well…almost.
Reflective of the cyclical nature of fads and trends, the past three to four years have seen a revival of the Rubik’s Cube in all its puzzling, colour-blocking glory! And one of the newest, most interesting renditions of the Rubik’s Cube has got to be the bizarre, yet beautiful d’Arenberg Cube.
Nestled among the verdant, vineyard-infested hills of McLaren Vale in South Australia, this startling structure is part of the d’Arenberg Wines estate that has been in the wine-making business since 1912. Inspired by the Rubik’s Cube and by the graceful folds of Japanese origami, the five-storied cubist, glass structure is a multi-purpose one. Inspired by the complexities and puzzles of winemaking, Chester Osborn, the fourth generation of the d’Arenberg family, imagined the idea of a cube-shaped building that came to fruition in December 2017.
Seeming as though they independently rotate on a single, common axis, each of the five levels have been carefully designed to entice and excite the senses. So, while the top level houses the d’Arenberg cellar door and private tasting areas, offering guests the opportunity to blend and bottle their own wine, the other levels offer varied treats. Level one houses an informative wine museum, along with a ‘wine fog room’ where alcoholic vapours flavoured with wine and other botanicals are released for an unusual ‘sniffing’ experience.
Offering perhaps the most sophisticated wine-paired lunch in all of South Australia, the restaurant on level four at The Cube is truly the piece de resistance. Conceptualised by husband and wife team—Brendan Wessels and Lindsay Durr who’ve worked in Michelin starred kitchens, The Sisypheanic Euphoria is a 3-hour, 10-course degustation meal. Here, guests are treated to a selection of some of the 60 wines produced by d’Arenberg Wines. These are each paired along with dishes like the coal-esque black pudding savoury doughnut and the namaleka dessert with a delicate hexagonal-patterned grille made from ‘printed’ sugar. The latter having been processed on Australia’s first fully functional 3-D food printer that’s housed in The Cube’s kitchen.

(This column first appeared in the 15th April 2018 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 8 
http://www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/tp-features/tp-sundaymagazine/darenberg-cube/article23545639.ece?utm_source=tp-sundaymagazine&utm_medium=sticky_footer)



Wednesday, April 4, 2018

Book to Book!

In an increasingly digital world, it is these iconic brick and mortar bookshops around the world that still hold great promise and hope for die-hard bibliophiles and serve as sanctuaries where they can lose themselves in the sight, smell and feel of crisp pages.




By Raul Dias

Shakespeare and Company, Paris
Since 1951, 37 Rue de la Bûcherie on Paris’ Left Bank has seen the legendary Shakespeare and Company cater to millions of book lovers. Offering them not just juicy morsels in the form of their favourite reads—which they are free to peruse through—but also a place to bed down for the night for free! Yes, this bookshop has several beds interspersed between its bookshelves and truly lives up to its motto of “Be Not Inhospitable to Strangers Lest They Be Angels in Disguise,” that’s even emblazoned above the entry way to the reading section. And while you’re leafing thr uoough the works of the greats like Hugo, Balzac and of course Shakespeare, take a moment to go through the bookshop’s very own coffee table book titled Shakespeare and Company, Paris: A History of the Rag & Bone Shop of the Heart that came out in 2016.
37 Rue de la Bûcherie, 75005 Paris, France
+33 1 43 25 40 93
shakespeareandcompany.com

Libreria Acqua Alta, Venice
Literally meaning ‘High Water Bookstore’, Libreria Acqua Alta is housed on the Calle Longa Santa Maria Formosa, next to Venice’s Piazza San Giovanni e Paolo and has a decidedly shabby chic feel to it—what with its flea market-meets-wacky bookshop appearance. But despite this, it is often referred to as the world’s most beautiful bookshop and is a repository for books like old editions of the works of greats like Dante to modern fiction of the Dan Brown kind. Interestingly, paying the ultimate tribute to the ‘water wonderland’ that is Venice, this quirky bookshop houses its books in everything from bathtubs and washbasins to… get this, a life-size gondola!
Calle Longa S. Maria Formosa, 5176/b, 30122 Castello, Venice, Italy
+39 041 296 0841

The Last Bookstore, Los Angeles
This bookshop with a rather ominous name, may not have a rich legacy to rely on, what with it having been established only in 2005. But what it lacks in years, it more than makes up for in prowess. All of 22,000 sq. ft. in downtown LA, this store is actually a collection of small stores within the main space. So, while you will find 250,000 new and second-hand books on the first two floors, including the new Arts & Rare Book Annex, it also has a shared space that house vinyl records and graphic novels. In addition to this, it also has a mammoth mezzanine level that includes The Labyrinth Above the Last Bookstore, Gather Yarn Shop, and the Spring Arts Collective gallery shops. What’s interesting about The Labyrinth is that it features a maze-like space that stocks over 100,000 used books that are all sold at $1 each!
453 S Spring St, Los Angeles, CA 90013, USA
+1 213-488-0599
lastbookstorela.com

Livraria Lello, Porto
Though we’re loathe to pick favourites on a selection of such wonderful bookshops around the world, this stunning bookshop in the portside city of Porto in Portugal is worthy of every single hyperbole! Rua das Carmelitas, a short walk from the city center is where this store that resembles the inside of an old wooden ship has been housed since 1906 (it opened at another location in 1869). A winding mahogany double staircase leads you up to the higher floors where you will find a treasure trove of books—both in Portuguese and other languages—on shelves that are set between pillars that are decorated with bronze bas-reliefs of Portuguese literature figures. Don’t miss checking out the tiny tracks on the floor that are used by the staff for sliding ladders and carts laden with books.
R. das Carmelitas 144, 4050-161 Porto, Portugal
+351 22 200 2037
livrarialello.pt


Powell’s City of Books, Portland
Besides it’s moniker of ‘America’s Weirdest City’, Portland also has one other calling card that gives it some serious street cred as a bibliophile’s paradise—Powell’s City of Books. Located in downtown Portland’s Pearl District, this bookstore is the largest second-hand and new bookstore in the world, occupying an entire city block and housing approximately one million books. Established in 1971, it has a plethora of titles ranging from vintage cookery to indigenous native American history. The store is so large that every Sunday, there is a free public tour offered. On this 45-minute tour, one is given a brief history of the gargantuan bookstore, from the Pillar of Signatude to a sneak peek into their Rare Book room.
1005 W Burnside St, Portland, OR 97209, USA
+1 800-878-7323
powells.com


The Indian Quintet
While we’re still coming to grips the recent shutting down of one of the country’s most revered bookshops—Mumbai’s Strand Book Stall, here’s a list of five other iconic Indian bookshops.
1. Dasgupta & Co, Kolkata: A virtual institution that’s part of the College Street posse of bookshops, this historic bookstore was established in 1886 and is still the go-to place to procure the first editions of various rare publications.
2. The Book Shop, New Delhi: Simply called ‘Book Shop’ this spartan, yet treasure trove of amazing reads in New Delhi’s Jor Bagh truly lives up to its name. Opened in 1970, this store may be a tad cramped and crowded, but you’ll always find whatever you are looking for here!
3. Kitab Khana, Mumbai: Located in a historic building in the city’s culture and arts hub of Fort, this large, airy bookshop stocks books not just in English and Hindi, but also in other regional and international languages.
4. Literati Book Shop and Café, Goa: Housed in a picturesque cottage in Calangute, this bookstore-cum-café is the perfect place to leaf through both second-hand and new books while tucking into a scrumptious lemon tea cake.
5. Leaping Windows, Bengaluru: A slight departure from the other bookshops on this list, in that it is comic bookstore and library, this Indiranagar shop makes the cut thanks to its mindboggling collection of comic book and magazine titles available for purchase or rent.

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the April 2018 issue of Jetwings Domestic in-flight magazine of Jet Airways http://www.jetairways.com/EN/IN/jetexperience/magazines.aspx)