Oh-Man!

Known as “The Norway of Arabia” thanks to its mighty fjords, the rugged Musandam Peninsula is not only the most northerly governorate of the Sultanate of Oman, but also the place to indulge your every adventure-laced fantasy—from snorkeling with dolphins to fossil hunting—as Raul Dias discovers.

While the Musandam Peninsula may not be very large at just about 3,000 sq km, this northern most governorate of Oman is also its most stunning with its dramatic fjords, picturesque rocky inlets and vertiginous mountains that seem to plunge into the sea below. Separated from the mainland of Oman by the UAE, getting into Khasab, Musandam’s capital is possible by a short flight from Muscat. While the drive overland involves several border crossings with the UAE and thus not recommended.
Commanding a strategic position, jutting out into one of the busiest shipping lanes of the world—the Strait of Hormuz—much of Musandam’s attractions lie along its rugged coastline that easily serves as the Middle Eastern doppelganger of the mighty fjords of Norway. No wonder then, that this part of the country is known by its moniker of “The Norway of Arabia”.
Here are a few ways to make the most of your trip to this ‘other’, cliché-busting side of the Middle East:

Of Ancient Fossils, Petroglyphs and Rock Carvings…
Jebel Harim or ‘Mountain of Women’ is the first stop for most travellers seeking adventure in this part of Oman. And their purpose is singular: to scope out the pre-historic fossils of molluscs and trilobites found in abundance over the slopes of this once sub-oceanic mountain that today stands proud, 2,087 mt above the very sea level that it once lay submerged under.
Equally dramatic are the petroglyphs in the mountain village of Sayah. Surrounded by lush palm and acacia trees and the dry river beds called wadis, it’s the rock paintings that command serious attention on this plateau. Over 3,000 years old, the petroglyphs’ depiction of ancient agrarian scenes are vivid and striking even today, thanks to the ‘paint’ mixture of sulphur and pigeon droppings.
Turning left at the village of Qida about 4 km from Khasab, along the coastal road to Bukha will reward you with a view of the magnificent rock carvings the village is known for. Similarly, the village of Tawi, at the far end of the wadi, is where you can come across fine examples of rock art that show dramatic depictions of warriors and animals in action.

Cruise the Fjords Aboard a Traditional Omani Dhow
Back on sea-level, sailing the intriguing lapis lazuli-hued waters of the Arabian Sea is a great way to get a bit of aquatic action into your Musandam trip. Take a four-hour long cruise in a traditional wooden ship called a dhow that careens from Khasab Harbour, along the waters surrounding the 17 km-long Musandam fjords.
While munching on the sweetest khallas variety of dates, bowlfuls of saffron-rich Omani halwa and potent shots of kahwa coffee dispensed out of a gleaming gold coffee pot called a dallah, chart you own courses of action as the dhow drops anchor off Telegraph Island. An island that once served as a repeater station to boost telegraphic messages along the Persian Gulf submarine cable (part of the London to Karachi telegraphic cable) for the British when they occupied parts of Oman in the mid-19th century, today Telegraph Island is a rubble-ridden tourist pit stop.
And while some of you can kit yourselves out in snorkelling gear and slice though the cool, coral-infested waters of the fjords, others can hone their kayaking skills. Or perhaps, loose yourself in the soundtrack of the day — provided by pods of friendly dolphins who follow the dhow, squeaks and clicks pat in place!

An Infusion of History and Culture
Why not end your day in Musandam with a bit of history and culture thrown in for good measure? Once you de-board the dhow, you will find yourself at the mighty gates of the Khasab Castle, a stone’s throw from the harbour. Now converted into a museum, this picturesque stronghold was constructed in the 17th century by the Portuguese who were seeking dominion over the maritime trade on the Strait of Hormuz in nearby Iran, which can easily be seen from the castle’s ramparts. A series of rooms and exhibits depict traditional Omani life and trade. Don’t miss out on checking out the central tower where there’s a small display of local Musandam axes.
A short walk away from the castle is the smaller Kamadra Fort which affords sublime mountain views from the battlements. A perfect spot to watch the sun sink into the depths of the Arabian Sea as the night sky takes on a shimmery, star-spangled cover!

FACT FILE

Getting there
The best way to get to Khasab is by a short 40 minutes flight on Oman Air from Oman’s capital Muscat. There are three daily direct flights from Mumbai to Muscat on Oman Air (www.omanair.com). Indian passport holders need a visa to enter Oman. With a new e-visa system introduced, visiting Oman has just become a lot easier to those who are coming to the Sultanate on holiday, business or just to visit.

Getting around
Travel within Khasab is easy with many taxis plying between its neighbourhoods. It is also possible to hire a vehicle for a self-drive vacation; do note that in Oman vehicles are driven on the right side of the road.

When to visit
With Northern Oman enjoying a pleasant climate during the Autumn, Winter and Spring seasons, the best months to travel to the Musandam Peninsula are from November to March. Summers from April to October can get very hot.

Accommodation
The town of Khasab has an excellent selection of hotels to choose from to suit all budgets and tastes. Some of the best options are:
* Atana Musandam (www.atanahotels.com)
* Khasab Hotel (www.khasabhotel.net)

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 20th April 2018 issue of the Afternoon Despatch & Courier newspaper, India on pages 18 and 19 http://www.afternoondc.in/48-hrs/oh-man/article_221212)