Unusual Summer Sips

This summer, why not cool down with these refreshing alcohol-free heat busters that have as their main ingredients a few unusual suspects? From dill and hibiscus to rhubarb and rooibos tea…take your pick!

By Raul Dias

Rhubarb in…
Rhubarbie Doll
Never mind the rather corny pun in its name, this summer drink celebrates a very unusual ingredient like rhubarb with great enthusiasm. Generally used in the west to make jams and dessert sauces, in this mocktail, the tart rhizome is first made into a pulp. A simple syrup of sugar and water is the base, to which diced rhubarb is added along with white wine vinegar to sharpen the flavour. This rhubarb pulp is then shaken with lemon juice, pineapple and cranberry juices and topped with ginger beer.  
At Olive Bar & Kitchen, 14 Union Park, Khar West.
Call 43408229
Cost Rs 220

Fennel and Dill in…
Fennel and Dill Fizz
Served in highball glass, this blushing pink summer cooler is a built-up drink that is the refreshing sum of its fennel stem, and dill leaf parts. Once muddled together, the fragrant, herbaceous mix is topped up with ginger ale, elder flower and cranberry juice and garnished with a dill frond. The main notes that dominate the drink are of fennel and dill, which are naturally sweet in flavour, herbaceous in aroma and extremely zesty.
At Cin Cin, Ground Floor, Raheja Towers, Near Dena Bank, BKC, Bandra East.
Call 69956666
Cost Rs 205

Thyme and Rosemary in…
Trend Setter
Reminiscent of one of our favourite Simon and Garfunkle songs—Scarborough Fair—in whose lyrics thyme stands for courage and rosemary, love, this drink is just what one needs to beat the heat! Jasmine tea, maple syrup, pineapple juice, rosemary and thyme are all blended together to form Trend Setter that is served enveloped in a cloud of dry ice smoke. Sprigs of thyme and rosemary complete the look of this tasty, herbaceous drink.
At The Daily Bar and Kitchen, Ground Floor, Behind Shoppers Stop, SV Road, Bandra West.
Call 9930795318
Cost Rs 450

Rooibos Tea in…
Spiced Passion
Calling rooibos a ‘tea’ is actually a misnomer. A type of herb belonging to the Fabaceae family of plants that can be found growing in South Africa, this tummy soothing herb is legendary for its calming properties. Distilling this goodness into an alcohol-free drink for summer are the guys at The Kettlery. The drink is made up of a tangy lemonade base that is flavoured with fresh rosemary, ginger bread and pumpkin tea. This tea is decocted from rooibos and blended with the intense flavours of gingerbread and pumpkin.
At The Kettlery, Unit no 1, 2nd Floor, Hotel Horizon 37, Juhu Beach, Juhu.
Call 67414777
Cost Rs 300

Rosemary in…
Summer Fizz
With a pink-peach ombre effect to it, this layered mocktail has fresh pomegranate muddled with a homemade rosemary syrup. It is then topped off with lime juice, chilled green tea, and fizzy soda water. Served in a fluted Hawaiian glass, the drink is garnished with a rosemary sprig, pomegranate seeds and edible flowers. Because, what’s summer without a bit of fresh, herby floral action?
At Nom Nom, 1&2, Ground Floor, Delux Mahal Building, 16th Road, Pali Hill, Bandra West.
Call 8291881320/21
Cost Rs 225

Dried Hibiscus Flowers in…
Hibiscus
Known multifariously as jamaica in Latin America, roselle in South Africa and karkade in the Middle East, the blood red extract of the dried hibiscus flower is the ultimate summer coolant. Displaying its versatility as the main ingredient in this eponymous mocktail, steeped hibiscus tea is combined with a sweet and sour syrup and topped off with soda water. All this, resulting in an all-natural drink that lets the tart taste of the dried flowers shine through.  
At The Clearing House, 13-15 Calicut Street, Ballard Estate.
Call 22683030
Cost Rs 235


(An edited version of this article appeared in the 24th April 2018 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 23 https://www.mid-day.com/articles/try-these-unique-alcohol-free-drinks-with-a-plant-based-twist-in-mumbai/19351185)

The Carpaccio Redux

Who said that a carpaccio is all about thin slivers of raw, red meat? Restaurants across the city put a new spin on the Italian classic, sending out everything from a duck, coconut and even a dessert version of the refreshing appetiser!

By Raul Dias

Yellow Fin Tuna Carpaccio
This fishy iteration of the carpaccio at Ballard Estate’s The Clearing House sees beetroot tartare layered with potato and green apple, sitting atop a bed of thinly sliced yellow fin tuna carpaccio. All this is then jazzed up with a tangy citrus dressing. “The dish is loosely inspired by the Russian classic Selyodka Pod Shuboy which uses herring. But due to the scarce availability of good quality fresh herring, we substituted the fish component with tuna and placed the tartare on a bed of yellow fin tuna carpaccio instead, which worked beautifully,” says Nitin Kulkarni, executive chef.
At The Clearing House, 13-15 Calicut Street, Ballard Estate
Call 22683030
Cost Rs 650

Duck Carpaccio with Arugula and Orange Segments
Although it’s highly unusual (and a tad dangerous!) to see poultry prepared in this raw form as a carpaccio, we’ve not only eaten it and lived to tell the tale, but have loved this version of the carpaccio that’s being served at Dine at The Quarter with peppery arugula, capers, parmesan cheese and orange segments sitting atop it. “I always work with classic, old school recipes with a contemporary twist. Carpaccio is one of the classic dish particularly known for its thin slices of beef. However, duck is not commonly used for carpaccio as it has quite a gamey flavour. To avoid that, we remove the fat, sinew and marinate the duck in a citrus-based marinade overnight and freeze it which helps to soften the muscles and tenderise the meat,” says Nico Goghavala, co-founder, The Quarter.
At Dine at The Quarter, Royal Opera House, Mathew Rd, Opera House, Girgaon
Call 8329110638
Cost Rs 400

Scallop and Black Truffle Carpaccio
On the menu at Estella in Juhu is this lovely, delicate dish of scallops done carpaccio-style with decadent black truffles that is sophisticated, yet refreshing thanks to other ingredients like a burnt orange aioli, edible flowers and micro greens. “Scallops are one of my personal favourite and here, they are grilled on just one side. The raw juices of the mollusk, along with the truffle and the tang of the creamy burnt orange aioli is one lovely combination,” says Chef Rohan D’Souza, lead chef at Silver Beach Entertainment Hospitality pvt ltd.
At Estella, Nichani Kutir, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu
Call 7999998232/7999998212
Cost Rs 825

Trio of Beetroot with Coconut Carpaccio
While one might argue that the beetroot done three ways (pickled, braised and roasted) is the hero of this dish, it is the thin, quivering tender coconut carpaccio that truly elevates this dish—that’s accentuated with creamy, house-fermented coconut yogurt and spicy serrano chilli pepper salsa—to a gastronomic high. “Making carpaccio allows a chef to “show off” his culinary skills in terms of flavour, appearance and knife skills. Everything needs to be in just the right place, in order to create a perfect tasting—and looking—dish. My process for this dish started off with the freshest produce, the right temperature for all the ingredients, the perfect amount of seasoning, and above all, the slices; as that’s what carpaccio is ultimately all about,” says Rishim Sachdeva, head chef, Olive Bar & Kitchen.
At Olive Bar & Kitchen, 14 Union Park, Khar West
Call 43408229
Cost Rs 525

Carpaccio of Strawberries with Pea Shoots
Stretching the limits of creativity, this carpaccio at Izaya is not only a vegetarian one, but is a dessert to top it all! This dessert is made up of a strawberry yogurt namelaka ganache which is topped with fresh strawberries done carpaccio style, infused with basil and garnished with berry jelly, edible flowers and pea shoots which brings out the brightness of the dessert. “Traditionally, a carpaccio is a dish of raw meat that is thinly sliced. The inspiration for this dessert was to give the popular appetiser a dessert-esque spin! We’ve finely sliced the strawberries to simulate the look and texture of the original dish. It is further enhanced by the creamy texture of the namelaka and the crunch of the dulce rosher,” says pastry chef, Aniket Parkar.
At Izaya, NCPA, Gate No. 2, Nariman Point
Call 22821212
Cost Rs 550



The Original Carpaccio
Invented in 1950 by Giuseppe Cipriani from Harry’s Bar in Venice, Italy during an electricity outage, the carpaccio is named in honour of Vittore Carpaccio, the Venetian painter known for the characteristic red and white tones of his work. This analogy is apt, as a traditional carpaccio is a dish of raw, red meat, thinly sliced and served with lemon, olive oil, and white truffle or Parmesan cheese!

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 22nd January 2018 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India https://m.mid-day.com/amp/articles/mumbai-food-5-carpaccio-dishes-with-a-twist-you-can-try-at-city-eateries/18963182)

Open Season!

Taking inspiration from the Swedish open sandwich—the smørrebrød—are a host of city cafés and restaurants that have decided to send out their sandwiches topless, giving you less carbs, more topping and the same amount of yumminess…

By Raul Dias

Soft Eggs and Fresh Andouille Sausage on Sourdough Toast
With its play on textures and flavours, from the runny egg to the smoky hit of the Bandel cheese, this open face sandwich is both complex and paradoxically simple at the same time. Here, poached eggs, fresh Louisiana-style Andouille sausage (choice of pork or chicken) sit on a sourdough toast slice that’s spread with green mustard, smoked Bandel cheese, cream cheese and finished off with a drizzle of gin mustard Hollandaise sauce. “At Toast & Tonic, each dish is comforting, yet gastronomically curious and the food—artisan inspired to modern. This, our signature open face sandwich is a perfect representation of our food philosophy. It’s inspired by the concept of eggs on toast with sausages, but with a completely different and refreshing take,” says Manu Chandra, Chef Partner, Toast & Tonic.
At Unit#1, Ground Floor, Jet Airways-Godrej Building, BKC, Bandra East
Call 26534722/7777049774
Cost Rs 400

Spiced Omelette, Feta and Fried Peppers Sandwich
With a whopping 10 versions of the open face sandwich on its menu, the new Café at The Quarter seems to have embraced this trend with a vengeance! We particularly liked the spiced omelette, feta cheese and fried peppers iteration that also has marinated mushroom and avocado slathered over a single slice of artisanal sour dough bread. “We are so confident about the ‘farm to table’ ingredients that we use at the Café, that we thought why not hero such fresh and healthy ingredients? That’s how we come up with the concept of the open face sandwich that features sour dough bread as its base with free range eggs, locally sourced feta cheese and farm fresh veggies.” says Executive Chef, Ajinkya More.
At Café at The Quarter, Royal Opera House, Mathew Rd, Opera House, Girgaon
Call 8329110638
Cost Rs 425

Open Face Avocado Toast  
This all-vegetarian salad bar—that makes an exception for the occasional egg preparation—serves up a heavily loaded open face sandwich. This one’s the yummy, and not to mention healthy, sum of its avocado, jalapeno, rocket leaves, flax seeds and beetroot shavings parts, that balance precariously atop a slab of multigrain bread with a smear of cream cheese to jazz it up a bit. “My personal love for avocado made me come up with this amazing fusion of something healthy, tasty and on trend at the same time,” explains the developer of this open face sandwich, Akansha Saigal, Head Chef, Ministry of Salads.
At Ministry of Salads, shop no 4, opp Tata Garden, Bhulabhai Desai Road, Breach Candy
Call 9769823777/9769802777
Cost Rs 230

Beet Hummus Toast
This open face toast sandwich at 212 All Good is the perfect example of how a handful of simple ingredients can result in something so exotic, tasty and not to mention beautiful to behold! Just beetroot hummus, topped with beet slices over a piece of gluten free bread are its components. Nothing more, nothing less. “When we started building 212 All Good, we made ourselves a promise – everything that goes into the plate has to be good for you. I wanted to create an appetiser that is light, bright and good for the gut, so we decided to make an open face Beet Hummus Toast. The crumbly texture of the gluten free bread blends perfectly well with the smooth beet hummus. Topped with pickled beet slices, makes it pleasing to the eye. Perfect to have before a meal or as a hearty snack!” says Chef Paul Kinny, Culinary Director Bellona Hospitality.
At 212 All Good, Grand West Zone, Ground Floor, High Street Phoenix, Lower Parel
Call 62216020
Cost Rs 295


Goat Cheese Avacado Toast
​A virtual meal in itself, this one at The Clearing House sees the pairing of luscious avocado chunks mashed with sweet and spicy fresh salsa verde on gluten-free, homemade sorghum toast and topped with goat cheese and cherry tomatoes. Best enjoyed with a perfectly poached egg on top, with a decadent splash of truffle oil. “Our menu is all about keeping it simple, and the avocado toast is one such simple, yet delightful dish loved the world over. We have spruced the good ol’ ‘avo toast’ by adding sweet and spicy salsa verde for an extra kick. The homemade sorghum bread and truffle poached egg makes this a perfect gluten-free brunch/lunch option,” explains Executive Chef Nitin Kulkarni.
At The Clearing House, 13-15 Calicut Street, Ballard Estate
Call 22683030
Cost Rs 650 

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 12th January 2018 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India https://www.mid-day.com/articles/mumbai-food-eateries-serve-swedish-inspired-topless-sandwiches-with-fewer-calories/18925177) 

Tender Lovin’

This torrid summer, it’s all about the cooling tender coconut that finds itself in a host of innovative preparations—from a pad thai to even a ceviche—at restaurants across the city.

By RAUL DIAS

Tender Coconut Pad Thai
This truly unique interpretation of the Thai street food staple—pad thai—sees tender coconut strips replacing the de rigueur flat rice noodles. And when combined with crushed peanuts, bean sprouts, tofu and tangy tamarind sauce, this iteration is truly a taste bud treat!
CREATOR SPEAK: “When we started building 212 All Good, we made ourselves a promise – everything that goes onto the plate has to be good for you. The Tender Coconut Pad Thai is something that ticks all the boxes with tender coconut being a great source of iron and brilliant for fighting heart diseases.”
-Chef Paul Kinny, culinary director
At 212 All Good, High Street Phoenix, Lower Parel
Call 62216020
Cost Rs 585

Tender Coconut & Fennel Ceviche
This ‘ceviche’ uses young coconut as its base ingredient. It’s safe to say that the entire dish is focused on this hero prepared simply by soaking thin slivers of tender coconut in orange juice, pineapple juice and chilly. It is then dressed with fresh coriander fronds, mint leaves, lemon, coconut water, chopped red chilies, edible flowers and shaved fennel.
CREATOR SPEAK: “Coconut is available everywhere, but not used to its full potential. Hence, I came up with the idea of making use of coconut in this dish to beat the heat.”
-Chef Rohan D’Souza, lead chef
At Radio Bar, Linking Road, Khar
Call 39967491, 9769755542, 9769355503
Cost Rs 385

Kale Coco Punch
Though the whole hype around kale may be on the wane this year, it still shows up in this rather refreshing and healthy seasonal cooler, paired with summer’s ultimate coolant—tender coconut! In this Hawaiian Tiki-style mocktail, tender coconut bits and water are blended with kale and fresh pineapple chunks, with a hint of turmeric for that added healthy boost, sans any sugar.
CREATOR SPEAK: “While our food menu has plenty of healthy options without compromising on taste, we wanted the beverage menu as well to represent the same philosophy—create drinks that are healthy and taste great too.”
-Surjeet Singh, bar captain
At The Clearing House, Ballard Estate, Fort
Call 62232266
Cost Rs 225

Tender Coconut Thai Curry Risotto
This ultimate fusion risotto makes its way to us via the geographic antipodes of Thailand and Italy! Here, aromatic green Thai curry and the short grain Italian Arborio rice are melded together with chunks of tender coconut that are added not just for texture and taste, but also to balance out the dish. It finds itself once more, but as a garnish, where roasted strips of tender coconut​ finish off the risotto.
CREATOR SPEAK: “It’s like mixing the fashion of Milan with the white sandy beaches of Thailand. T​his recipe first came together as a side dish, but we’ve now made it a standalone summer dish.”
-Ajay Thakur, brand chef
At Hitchki, Kalaghoda, Fort
Call 46129999
Cost Rs 320

Choconut Panna Cotta (see recipe below)
No, that isn’t a typo you think you spot in the name of this dessert! For, it is the yummy sum of its brownie tidbits, white chocolate, and tender coconut parts, all set overnight in a coconut shell, and infused with flavours of another summer staple—alphonso mango. It’s then served chilled along with mango coulis, coconut coral and edible flowers.CREATOR SPEAK: “I wanted to give the traditional panna cotta a twist of taste by using fresh ingredients over synthetic ones and serving it in a coconut shell with a tender coconut coral net as a garnish.”
-Chef Manoj Kumar Bhagat, pastry chef
At Jeon at Hotel Sea Princess, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu
Call 26469500
Cost Rs 499

Choconut Panna Cotta

Ingredients:
3 gelatine leaves
180ml fresh coconut milk
100ml milk
280ml double cream
1 vanilla pod, split lengthways, seeds scraped out
40g sugar
50g white chocolate
Pieces of cubed brownie
Tender coconut bits
Macaroon flakes
Mango chunks
Edible flowers
1tsp mango coulis or sauce
One half coconut shell

Method:
* For the panna cotta, soak the gelatine leaves in a little cold water until soft.
* Place the coconut milk, milk, cream, vanilla pod and seeds and sugar into a pan and bring to a simmer. Remove the vanilla pod and discard.
* Squeeze the water out of the gelatine leaves, then add to the pan and take off the heat. Stir until the gelatine has dissolved. Mix melted white chocolate.
* Divide the mixture among four ramekins and leave to cool. Place into the fridge for at least an hour, until set.
* For plating: Break a coconut into half, grate the coconut and line it with the panna cotta. Top it with cubed brownie chunks, macaroon flakes, mango chunks and edible flowers. Line the plate with mango coulis and place a few cubes of mango, brownie dices and edible flowers around the shell. Garnish the panna cotta with tender coconut bits.

Recipe courtesy Chef Manoj Kumar Bhagat, pastry chef, Jeon at Hotel Sea Princess

(A shorter, edited version of this article appeared in the 6th May 2017 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India http://www.mid-day.com/articles/tender-coconut-innovative-preparations-across-menus-in-mumbai-chefs/18226177)

Restaurant Review: The Clearing House, Mumbai

By Raul Dias

‘MAN’SPEAK: Once an old ice factory in the British-style business district of Ballard Estate, The Clearing House has metamorphosed into a chic fine dining restaurant that is all about keeping it simple – food that’s ingredient driven and influenced by various international flavours with a strong European-Asian thrust. The two distinct sections of The Foyer and The Chamber give this huge eatery a Dr Jekyll and Mr. Hyde-esque countenance with the bright and cheery former space separated from the dark-n-brooding latter by a huge industrial-style metal door.

LIP-SMACKING: A trio of yummy BBQ pork and edamame baos and the stewed squid with a kasundi-like mustard sauce were the perfect examples of simple, yet evocative opening acts that set the tone for the second innings. Among the mains, living up to its expectations, the barely seared yellowfin tuna with cold soba noodles in a mirin broth was both clean and supremely flavoursome, while the grilled crispy skin duck breast with a shredded duck tortellini and cauliflower mash was more-ish on so many levels. But it was the miso-glazed cod with baby carrots and sugar snap peas that hit a home run straight out of the park! Among the dessert selection, the honey flan and the warm apple filo left a memorable mark, as did the innovative earl grey ice-cream scoop sitting daintily atop shortbread cookie crumbs.

DON’T EVEN GO THERE: The undercooked, bland lobster morsels placed on soggy mini brioches were a total let down and seemed to have made a detour from the sashimi platter. The boring, low-on-tequila muskmelon margarita was crying out lustily for some jazzing up, as was the island life cocktail with its watery coconut milk and pineapple parts that made it taste like a bad iteration of a rather pedestrian pina colada at best!  

HOW TO GET THERE: Located on 13/15 Calicut Street, near The Seamans Club at Ballar​d Estate in Fort. The nearest train station is CST (10 minutes away by taxi). Phone: 022-62232266

COST: Rs 4,000

(An edited version of this review appeared in the January 2017 issue of The Man magazine, India)