Restaurant Review: The Clearing House, Mumbai

By Raul Dias

‘MAN’SPEAK: Once an old ice factory in the British-style business district of Ballard Estate, The Clearing House has metamorphosed into a chic fine dining restaurant that is all about keeping it simple – food that’s ingredient driven and influenced by various international flavours with a strong European-Asian thrust. The two distinct sections of The Foyer and The Chamber give this huge eatery a Dr Jekyll and Mr. Hyde-esque countenance with the bright and cheery former space separated from the dark-n-brooding latter by a huge industrial-style metal door.

LIP-SMACKING: A trio of yummy BBQ pork and edamame baos and the stewed squid with a kasundi-like mustard sauce were the perfect examples of simple, yet evocative opening acts that set the tone for the second innings. Among the mains, living up to its expectations, the barely seared yellowfin tuna with cold soba noodles in a mirin broth was both clean and supremely flavoursome, while the grilled crispy skin duck breast with a shredded duck tortellini and cauliflower mash was more-ish on so many levels. But it was the miso-glazed cod with baby carrots and sugar snap peas that hit a home run straight out of the park! Among the dessert selection, the honey flan and the warm apple filo left a memorable mark, as did the innovative earl grey ice-cream scoop sitting daintily atop shortbread cookie crumbs.

DON’T EVEN GO THERE: The undercooked, bland lobster morsels placed on soggy mini brioches were a total let down and seemed to have made a detour from the sashimi platter. The boring, low-on-tequila muskmelon margarita was crying out lustily for some jazzing up, as was the island life cocktail with its watery coconut milk and pineapple parts that made it taste like a bad iteration of a rather pedestrian pina colada at best!  

HOW TO GET THERE: Located on 13/15 Calicut Street, near The Seamans Club at Ballar​d Estate in Fort. The nearest train station is CST (10 minutes away by taxi). Phone: 022-62232266

COST: Rs 4,000

(An edited version of this review appeared in the January 2017 issue of The Man magazine, India)