Open Season!

Taking inspiration from the Swedish open sandwich—the smørrebrød—are a host of city cafés and restaurants that have decided to send out their sandwiches topless, giving you less carbs, more topping and the same amount of yumminess…

By Raul Dias

Soft Eggs and Fresh Andouille Sausage on Sourdough Toast
With its play on textures and flavours, from the runny egg to the smoky hit of the Bandel cheese, this open face sandwich is both complex and paradoxically simple at the same time. Here, poached eggs, fresh Louisiana-style Andouille sausage (choice of pork or chicken) sit on a sourdough toast slice that’s spread with green mustard, smoked Bandel cheese, cream cheese and finished off with a drizzle of gin mustard Hollandaise sauce. “At Toast & Tonic, each dish is comforting, yet gastronomically curious and the food—artisan inspired to modern. This, our signature open face sandwich is a perfect representation of our food philosophy. It’s inspired by the concept of eggs on toast with sausages, but with a completely different and refreshing take,” says Manu Chandra, Chef Partner, Toast & Tonic.
At Unit#1, Ground Floor, Jet Airways-Godrej Building, BKC, Bandra East
Call 26534722/7777049774
Cost Rs 400

Spiced Omelette, Feta and Fried Peppers Sandwich
With a whopping 10 versions of the open face sandwich on its menu, the new Café at The Quarter seems to have embraced this trend with a vengeance! We particularly liked the spiced omelette, feta cheese and fried peppers iteration that also has marinated mushroom and avocado slathered over a single slice of artisanal sour dough bread. “We are so confident about the ‘farm to table’ ingredients that we use at the Café, that we thought why not hero such fresh and healthy ingredients? That’s how we come up with the concept of the open face sandwich that features sour dough bread as its base with free range eggs, locally sourced feta cheese and farm fresh veggies.” says Executive Chef, Ajinkya More.
At Café at The Quarter, Royal Opera House, Mathew Rd, Opera House, Girgaon
Call 8329110638
Cost Rs 425

Open Face Avocado Toast  
This all-vegetarian salad bar—that makes an exception for the occasional egg preparation—serves up a heavily loaded open face sandwich. This one’s the yummy, and not to mention healthy, sum of its avocado, jalapeno, rocket leaves, flax seeds and beetroot shavings parts, that balance precariously atop a slab of multigrain bread with a smear of cream cheese to jazz it up a bit. “My personal love for avocado made me come up with this amazing fusion of something healthy, tasty and on trend at the same time,” explains the developer of this open face sandwich, Akansha Saigal, Head Chef, Ministry of Salads.
At Ministry of Salads, shop no 4, opp Tata Garden, Bhulabhai Desai Road, Breach Candy
Call 9769823777/9769802777
Cost Rs 230

Beet Hummus Toast
This open face toast sandwich at 212 All Good is the perfect example of how a handful of simple ingredients can result in something so exotic, tasty and not to mention beautiful to behold! Just beetroot hummus, topped with beet slices over a piece of gluten free bread are its components. Nothing more, nothing less. “When we started building 212 All Good, we made ourselves a promise – everything that goes into the plate has to be good for you. I wanted to create an appetiser that is light, bright and good for the gut, so we decided to make an open face Beet Hummus Toast. The crumbly texture of the gluten free bread blends perfectly well with the smooth beet hummus. Topped with pickled beet slices, makes it pleasing to the eye. Perfect to have before a meal or as a hearty snack!” says Chef Paul Kinny, Culinary Director Bellona Hospitality.
At 212 All Good, Grand West Zone, Ground Floor, High Street Phoenix, Lower Parel
Call 62216020
Cost Rs 295


Goat Cheese Avacado Toast
​A virtual meal in itself, this one at The Clearing House sees the pairing of luscious avocado chunks mashed with sweet and spicy fresh salsa verde on gluten-free, homemade sorghum toast and topped with goat cheese and cherry tomatoes. Best enjoyed with a perfectly poached egg on top, with a decadent splash of truffle oil. “Our menu is all about keeping it simple, and the avocado toast is one such simple, yet delightful dish loved the world over. We have spruced the good ol’ ‘avo toast’ by adding sweet and spicy salsa verde for an extra kick. The homemade sorghum bread and truffle poached egg makes this a perfect gluten-free brunch/lunch option,” explains Executive Chef Nitin Kulkarni.
At The Clearing House, 13-15 Calicut Street, Ballard Estate
Call 22683030
Cost Rs 650 

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 12th January 2018 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India https://www.mid-day.com/articles/mumbai-food-eateries-serve-swedish-inspired-topless-sandwiches-with-fewer-calories/18925177) 

Fancy a 9pm Fry Up?

It’s always “eggs o’clock” at these five places around the city that make it their mission to serve you the day’s most important meal—breakfast—at any old time of the day, night even. Get set for the dawn (pun unintended!) of the All-Day Breakfast 

  

By Raul Dias

Craft 
When these guys say ‘Breakfast Anytime’ they really men anytime! Using only “Kegg farms” organic, free range, tan shell eggs in all their egg dishes, this is in-keeping with the fresh produce ethos of Craft. So, this means an all-day menu replete with fun breakfast dishes like muglette which is an omelette made with cheese, cayenne pepper, sour cream and spring onion with an option for bacon, served, in... get this, a mug! Another must-try is the barbecue chicken breakfast bun made with homemade BBQ sauce, smoked applewood cheddar and a fried egg. Great ‘eggs’pectations, this.Where: Level 1, Phoenix Marketcity Kurla, LBS Marg, Kurla (w)
Call: 61802073/74
Timings: 11am to 11:45pm

The Nutcracker
The all-day brekkie offering at this otherwise all-veg Kala Ghoda café truly is an egg lover’s fantasy come true. Available in myriad avatars, the eggs shines in all its sunshine-hued glory. Choose from a selection of international favourites like Turkish eggs, truffle eggs and Israeli Shakshouka to tried-n-tested desi classics like akuri, salli eggs and the green chilli chutney-redolent eggs Kejriwal. And for those not too chuffed with scarfing down eggs, the fluffy buttermilk pancakes, chewy bagels, French toast, breakfast shakes and waffles are the stuff 9pm breakfast dreams are made of!
Where: Modern House, Dr. V.B. Gandhi Marg, Opposite One Forbes Building, Kala Ghoda, Fort
Call: 22842430
Timings: Tue-Sat 9:30am to 11pm, Monday 12pm to 11pm, Sunday 8:30am to 11pm

Café Zoe
The breakfast service at this breezy mid-town café starts as early as 7.30am and runs throughout the day fueling you up with an extensive breakfast menu. The all-day menu offers up a plethora of the world of breakfast’s greatest hits from pancakes and Belgian waffles to eggs in all and every way you like, be it a skinny white only fluffy omelette or a classic Eggs Benedict to black lentil pancakes, French toast and freshly baked breads. From the drinks’ menu, take your pick from a range of French press coffees and healthy juices. Try the ABC (apple, beetroot, carrot) juice and thank us later.
Where: Mathuradas Mills Compound, N.M Joshi Marg, Lower Parel
Call: 24902065
Timings: 7:30am to 5pm

Monkey Bar
Dubbed ‘Breakfirst Plus’ this Sunday-only, all-day brekkie bonanza is a literal feast with a ‘Monkey Twist’! The EggHead section offers everything from the egg lover’s original favourite of scrambled eggs to their interpretation of the Parsi staple with a twist—curried akuri with Malabari paratha. They also do the Lord Cubbon’s Vice which is a traditional English breakfast with the works. For those with a predilection for a sweet breakfast, there’s always the cinnamon and toffee pancakes along with French toast. The menu also offers perfect Hangover Cures with signature breakfast cocktails like the morning glory and the Bloody Monkey, along with French press coffee, masala chai, thick shakes and fresh juices.
Where: Summerville, Junction of 14th & 33rd, Linking Road, Bandra (e)
Call: 26005215
Timings: 9am to 5pm

212 All Good
Built from a promise to create incredibly wholesome food and drinks that are shy of preservatives and embrace everything that is good for your gut, the all-day breakfast menu at 212 All Good also carries forward this philosophy. Breakfast options include five kinds of granola with a choice of kefir, milk or nut mylk; eggs marinated in pickled beet juice; a no-egg scramble made from tofu; pearl millet and oat flapjacks, fresh fruit bowls, et more.​ Now, that’s a healthy way to start…err, we mean end the day!
Where: Ground Floor Grand Galleria, High Street Phoenix, Lower Parel
Call: 62216020
Timings: 9am to 12am

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 21st August 2017 issue of the evening edition of Mid-Day newspaper, India http://www.mid-day.com/articles/mumbai-food-five-mumbai-restaurants-breakfast-meals-day-night-menu-lifestyle/18522150)

How ‘Eggs’trodinary!

Eggs Benedict—one of the world’s most favourite brunch perennials gets five epic makeovers at some of Mumbai’s most fun all-day, casual diners

By Raul Dias

For the die-hard Mumbaikar foodie
Paying homage to Henpecked’s farm to table concept, Hen Benepict is more than just a play on words and an attempt at recreating a classic Eggs Benedict with local ingredients and preparation styles. So, while you have the traditional English muffin replaced with Mumbai-style laadi pav, potato salli is introduced to add a crunchy texture to the poached eggs that are enrobed with the typical Hollandaise sauce.
At Henpecked, 105, Apollo Street, Kala Ghoda, Fort
Call 65550303
Cost Rs 295

For the carb conscious clique
A healthier spin to the traditional Benedict, this version called The All Good Benedict replaces the muffin with vitamin and potassium rich sweet potato. Served on these sweet potato cakes are dehydrated tomatoes and desi poached eggs. The dairy-free cashew cream that replaces the buttery Hollandaise brings in the creamy texture, while the turmeric not only increases the antioxidant content of the dish but also adds that yellow Hollandaise-y colour!
At 212 All Good, Ground Floor Grand Galleria, High Street Phoenix, Lower Parel
Call 62216020
Cost Rs 295

For all those mid-day Thai curry cravings
Called the House Benedict, this truly multi-regional iteration is served on a French brioche base topped with arugula leaves, Italian chicken mortadella, poached eggs and a green curry hollandaise sauce that’s made from Thai green curry paste and lime juice.
At Craft, Level 1 Phoenix Marketcity Kurla, LBS Marg
Call 61802073/74
Cost Rs 295

For the pulled pork fan
While still packed with porky goodness, the Café Zoe Eggs Benedict eschews ham in favour of pulled pork that sits atop two pieces of English muffin, topped with two perfectly poached eggs, Hollandaise sauce and a sprinkling of chives. They also do an Eggs Benedict with smoked salmon for all ‘ye seafood lovers out there.
At Café Zoe, Mathuradas Mills Compound, N.M Joshi Marg, Lower Parel
Call 24902065
Cost Rs 350

For a surf-n-turf spin on things
For the most part of it, this riff on a traditional Eggs Benedict looks like the real deal. But one bite into it and it reveals its pescatarian underpinnings. Yes, here the subtle flavours of crab meat topped with sautéed spinach meld with the unctuousness of perfectly cooked soft poached eggs along with a not-so-classic Hollandaise sauce to which a hint of spice is added to tempt the Indian palette with.
At Silver Beach Café, Jaldarshan Building, Gandhi Gram Road, Juhu
Call 26208930, 9819966495
Cost Rs 145

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 21st July 2017 issue of Mid-Day newspaper, India http://www.mid-day.com/articles/mumbai-food-city-restaurants-give-the-eggs-benedict-a-makeover/18440156)

Waffle Mania!

Taking an interesting menu detour from the desserts’ section to the main one is the humble waffle. Making ‘savoury waffles’ the hottest food trend of the season at restaurants across Mumbai.

By Raul Dias

Spicy Jalapeno and Melted Queso Waffle
This one’s for those times when you want something savoury for that lazy Sunday brunch that still hints at something sweet… That’s when you should try this all-veg spicy jalapeno and melted queso waffle that’s topped with oodles of unctuous melted cheese. And for that added bite, you can also add some pico de gallo and salsa picante!
CHEF SPEAK: “We like savoury waffles, so we had to have at least one on our menu! We went for a meatless option so that everyone can enjoy these waffles, but some regulars do ask for crispy bacon for a more indulgent treat.”
-Chef Sandeep Sonawane, head chef
At Jamjar Diner, Aram Nagar ll, Versova
Call 26358880, 26368880
Cost Rs 270

Savoury Pumpkin Waffle
This take on a savoury waffle is made up of a gluten free waffle that’s filled with roasted kabocha commonly called Japanese pumpkin — a known aphrodisiac in many cultures — along with sage, caramelised onions and house made tulsi yogurt.
CHEF SPEAK: “Apart from having a chestnut-like texture and sweet potato-like taste profile, kabocha is high in beta carotene, iron, and vitamin C. The waffle is gluten-free and hence you won’t feel a drop of guilt as you savour this savoury waffle.”
-Chef Paul Kinny, culinary director
At 212 All Good, High Street Phoenix, Lower Parel
Call 62216020, 8655012212
Cost Rs 425

Crispy Khimchi and Fried Brocolli Waffle
The crispy khimchi and crunchy broccoli on freshly made tobanjan-spiced waffles, topped with wasabi flavoured sour cream and served with an apple and fennel salad work as a great combination. All this is further enhanced by a squiggle of horseradish mayo and a side of pickled cauliflower.
CHEF SPEAK: “Most people strongly associate waffles as a breakfast option. We wanted to bring out the versatility of waffles through our loaded savoury waffles.”
-Chef Aagar Thite and Chef Harish Devadkar, head chefs
At Swey, Rooftop Atria Mall, Worli
Call 30151682
Cost Rs 625

Waffles Croque Madame
A unique take on the classic French breakfast dish of Croque Madame, here a crispy-topped, fluffy-centered waffle is loaded with local ham, bechamel sauce and finished off with a sunny side up egg and served up with homemade bacon jam. ‘nuff said!
CHEF SPEAK: “The combination of this savoury waffle has worked very well in terms of taste that includes great flavours because of the ham and cheese. It enhances the dish and makes it unique.”
-Chef Kaustubh Gujar, chef de partie
At The Pantry, Kalaghoda, Fort
Call 22678901
Cost Rs 345

Duck and Waffle
While this one may be a clever riff on the Southern American classic fried chicken and waffle combination, here, the rather pedestrian chicken is eschewed in favour of the more game-y duck. So, what we have on hand is a citrus-spiced, slow cooked pulled duck, nestled atop a fluffy, rocket leaf-lined waffle and drizzled with citrus sauce. This is then topped off with the de rigueur runny fried egg. 
CHEF SPEAK: “Universally, the waffle is considered a dessert, but with chefs pushing classic dishes to innovate and educate people’s palettes and taste buds, the waffle has become a fun ingredient.”
-Chef Subhash Shirke, executive chef
At Woodside Inn, Woodhouse road, Colaba
Call 22025525
Cost Rs 695

Jackfruit Corn Waffle
Here, the rather sparingly used jackfruit is first tossed in homemade barbeque sauce and then set atop a corn meal waffle. Goat cheese is then added to cut through the tanginess, while caramelised onions add a hint of sweetness to the dish. Accompanying this is a side salad of lettuce leaves, endives, arugula and romaine all tossed in a vinaigrette.
CHEF SPEAK: “We at Theory use seasonal produce and fruits for many dishes. Jackfruit being the fruit of the season, we introduced a dish in a savoury and sweet combination.”
-Chef Clyde Comello, chef de cuisine
At Theory, Kamala Mills, Lower Parel
Call 66666506
Cost Rs 625

(An edited version of this article appeared in the 2nd June 2017 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, http://www.mid-day.com/articles/mumbai-food-waffles-restaurant-menus-mumbai-guide-waffle-varities/18301156)

Tender Lovin’

This torrid summer, it’s all about the cooling tender coconut that finds itself in a host of innovative preparations—from a pad thai to even a ceviche—at restaurants across the city.

By RAUL DIAS

Tender Coconut Pad Thai
This truly unique interpretation of the Thai street food staple—pad thai—sees tender coconut strips replacing the de rigueur flat rice noodles. And when combined with crushed peanuts, bean sprouts, tofu and tangy tamarind sauce, this iteration is truly a taste bud treat!
CREATOR SPEAK: “When we started building 212 All Good, we made ourselves a promise – everything that goes onto the plate has to be good for you. The Tender Coconut Pad Thai is something that ticks all the boxes with tender coconut being a great source of iron and brilliant for fighting heart diseases.”
-Chef Paul Kinny, culinary director
At 212 All Good, High Street Phoenix, Lower Parel
Call 62216020
Cost Rs 585

Tender Coconut & Fennel Ceviche
This ‘ceviche’ uses young coconut as its base ingredient. It’s safe to say that the entire dish is focused on this hero prepared simply by soaking thin slivers of tender coconut in orange juice, pineapple juice and chilly. It is then dressed with fresh coriander fronds, mint leaves, lemon, coconut water, chopped red chilies, edible flowers and shaved fennel.
CREATOR SPEAK: “Coconut is available everywhere, but not used to its full potential. Hence, I came up with the idea of making use of coconut in this dish to beat the heat.”
-Chef Rohan D’Souza, lead chef
At Radio Bar, Linking Road, Khar
Call 39967491, 9769755542, 9769355503
Cost Rs 385

Kale Coco Punch
Though the whole hype around kale may be on the wane this year, it still shows up in this rather refreshing and healthy seasonal cooler, paired with summer’s ultimate coolant—tender coconut! In this Hawaiian Tiki-style mocktail, tender coconut bits and water are blended with kale and fresh pineapple chunks, with a hint of turmeric for that added healthy boost, sans any sugar.
CREATOR SPEAK: “While our food menu has plenty of healthy options without compromising on taste, we wanted the beverage menu as well to represent the same philosophy—create drinks that are healthy and taste great too.”
-Surjeet Singh, bar captain
At The Clearing House, Ballard Estate, Fort
Call 62232266
Cost Rs 225

Tender Coconut Thai Curry Risotto
This ultimate fusion risotto makes its way to us via the geographic antipodes of Thailand and Italy! Here, aromatic green Thai curry and the short grain Italian Arborio rice are melded together with chunks of tender coconut that are added not just for texture and taste, but also to balance out the dish. It finds itself once more, but as a garnish, where roasted strips of tender coconut​ finish off the risotto.
CREATOR SPEAK: “It’s like mixing the fashion of Milan with the white sandy beaches of Thailand. T​his recipe first came together as a side dish, but we’ve now made it a standalone summer dish.”
-Ajay Thakur, brand chef
At Hitchki, Kalaghoda, Fort
Call 46129999
Cost Rs 320

Choconut Panna Cotta (see recipe below)
No, that isn’t a typo you think you spot in the name of this dessert! For, it is the yummy sum of its brownie tidbits, white chocolate, and tender coconut parts, all set overnight in a coconut shell, and infused with flavours of another summer staple—alphonso mango. It’s then served chilled along with mango coulis, coconut coral and edible flowers.CREATOR SPEAK: “I wanted to give the traditional panna cotta a twist of taste by using fresh ingredients over synthetic ones and serving it in a coconut shell with a tender coconut coral net as a garnish.”
-Chef Manoj Kumar Bhagat, pastry chef
At Jeon at Hotel Sea Princess, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu
Call 26469500
Cost Rs 499

Choconut Panna Cotta

Ingredients:
3 gelatine leaves
180ml fresh coconut milk
100ml milk
280ml double cream
1 vanilla pod, split lengthways, seeds scraped out
40g sugar
50g white chocolate
Pieces of cubed brownie
Tender coconut bits
Macaroon flakes
Mango chunks
Edible flowers
1tsp mango coulis or sauce
One half coconut shell

Method:
* For the panna cotta, soak the gelatine leaves in a little cold water until soft.
* Place the coconut milk, milk, cream, vanilla pod and seeds and sugar into a pan and bring to a simmer. Remove the vanilla pod and discard.
* Squeeze the water out of the gelatine leaves, then add to the pan and take off the heat. Stir until the gelatine has dissolved. Mix melted white chocolate.
* Divide the mixture among four ramekins and leave to cool. Place into the fridge for at least an hour, until set.
* For plating: Break a coconut into half, grate the coconut and line it with the panna cotta. Top it with cubed brownie chunks, macaroon flakes, mango chunks and edible flowers. Line the plate with mango coulis and place a few cubes of mango, brownie dices and edible flowers around the shell. Garnish the panna cotta with tender coconut bits.

Recipe courtesy Chef Manoj Kumar Bhagat, pastry chef, Jeon at Hotel Sea Princess

(A shorter, edited version of this article appeared in the 6th May 2017 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India http://www.mid-day.com/articles/tender-coconut-innovative-preparations-across-menus-in-mumbai-chefs/18226177)