(This article first appeared online on 3rd April 2024 on Live Mint, India https://lifestyle.livemint.com/food/discover/funerary-cookbooks-recipes-gravestone-111712128302760.html)
Showing posts with label USA. Show all posts
Showing posts with label USA. Show all posts
Thursday, April 4, 2024
Wednesday, November 8, 2023
My Top 6 Indian Restaurants Outside India
(This article first appeared online on 8th November 2023 on Live Mint, India https://lifestyle.livemint.com/food/discover/best-indian-restaurants-in-the-world-111699413754781.html)
Friday, January 13, 2023
6 Iconic Dishes and Drinks From Equally Legendary Establishments
Wednesday, September 15, 2021
Five alcohol museums around the world
Tuesday, August 3, 2021
5 food museums around the world
(This article first appeared online on 3rd August 2021 on ZeeZest https://zeezest.com/food/5-food-museums-around-the-world-803 )
Saturday, October 10, 2020
Puns on a Platter!
From the downright outrageous to the uproariously funny, weirdly named dishes offer an interesting insight into the culinary ethos of several countries around the world.
By Raul Dias
Growing up part Anglo-Indian on my Mum’s side, my initiation into the realm of oddly named dishes was complete the moment I, a preternaturally ravenous two-year-old, had had my first helping of pish-pash. Simply put, the rather onomatopoeic dish is an Anglo rite of passage every toddler must endure. Made with soft rice and some form of protein (mostly chicken), pish-pash as a dish was first spoken of by English writer Augustus Prinsep in the mid-19th century where he called it “a slop of rice-soup with small pieces of meat in it, much used in the Anglo-Indian nursery.”
Over the years, I would encounter more funnily named Anglo-Indian culinary ‘jewels’ like the meat kofta curry doppelganger with a very rude name of ball curry. Also known as the even ruder “spinster’s delight curry”, the Sunday special would always be enjoyed with its supporting acts that took the form of yellow rice and the scary-sounding (but comfortingly mild) devil chutney.
Egg banjo, on the other hand is an Anglo snack that was invented by the military during WWII and sees a sunny-side-up fried egg sandwiched between two slices of bread, all doused in the quintessentially British brown sauce. Though the etymology of ‘banjo’ in its name remains a mystery, the sandwich still lives on here in India in the form of the slightly tweaked (both in name and composition) ‘egg benjo’—an insanely popular snack made famous by Indore’s nightly food paradise of Sarafa Bazar. Here, the runny egg is substituted with a more practical folded masala omelette, the sliced bread with a toasted burger bun and brown sauce with tomato ketchup.
Blighty bites
As a university student in the UK of the mid-2000s, as I navigated my way around various college and dorm cafeterias, I was hit in the face with even more inappropriately named British dishes. Take spotted dick, for instance.
Now, before images of some virulent, male appendage-related medical condition begin to swirl in your mind, let me assure you of the name’s rather benign innocuity. This traditional British pudding (as desserts are referred to there) is made with flour, suet (a kind of animal lard), caster sugar, lemon zest and dried currants or raisins making up the ‘spotted’ component. The ‘dick’ part being an old English term for a pudding. Served warm with a thin custard sauce, this steamed pudding has been a mainstay across Britain for centuries.
I am told that the wildly popular Stinking Bishop cheese from Dymock in South West England’s Gloucestershire county apparently gets its nausea-evoking name for the juice of the Stinking Bishop Pear that it is immersed in for its ripening process. Not for its equally putrid odour that is said to be a cross between that of a wet dog and old socks.
Another such bizarrely named specimen is the rather tasty baked savoury dish called toad-in-the-hole. Eaten as part of a light dinner that the Brits call “tea”, the easy-to-prepare dish is a bunch of fried pork sausages (or to use the more colloquial term—bangers) cooked in what is essentially a buttery Yorkshire pudding. But in America, the unfortunately named dish refers to an egg cooked in the hole cut out of a piece of white, sliced bread.
Servings across the pond
Speaking of America, the land of the free too has its own posse of quirkily named dishes. Some like the molten cheese-exploding burger called the juicy Lucy and the soppy, meat sauce laden sandwich named sloppy Joe paying homage to particularly messy individuals! While others are in honour of “sleepy critters” like the 1970s cocktail party classic of pigs in a blanket that sees tiny, cocktail pork sausages wrapped in flaky pastry and then baked.
Devils on horseback is another iconic 70s party snack where pitted, dried prunes are wrapped in bacon strips and then baked. Interestingly, this snack has evolved from another strangely named turn-of-the-century one called angels on horseback, where freshly shucked oysters stood instead of the prunes.
Deep fried oysters also find a place for themselves in the New Orleans po’ boy sandwich ensconced within the crusty confines of a sliced mini French baguette. A shortened version of the original ‘poor boy sandwich’, the po’ boy was named after the conductors of the local streetcar company, who in 1929, were given the sandwiches free of charge for their daily lunch by a local restaurant during their four-month long strike for better wages.
South of the US in the Caribbean twin island nation of Trinidad & Tobago, a strangely named iteration of our very own Malabar parotta has been the number one snack for over a century. The buss up shut which is the local vernacular for “busted up shirt” is a flaky paratha that is smashed up by the cook using their hands after frying on a griddle. Thus, leaving the flatbread to resemble a torn-up shirt, pieces of which are dunked into spicy chickpea and potato curry and eaten with Trini-style mango achaar.
Found in translation
Adidas. Helmet. Walkman. Any guesses as to what this trio could possibly mean in the context of food? Well, in the Philippines they are all nicknames given to popular street food snacks, I discovered on a recent trip to the archipelago nation. So, while Adidas is what barbequed chicken feet are called, helmet is the code word for roasted chicken head and walkman is bite sized bits of grilled pig ears.
Still in the Philippines, Bicol express is a spicy stew made with pork, shrimp paste and coconut milk. It is named in honour of the passenger train service of the same name that plies between the capital Manila and the Bicol region that is well-known for its spicy cuisine.
Imam bayildi, as translated onto the English menu cards in restaurants across Turkey reads “the imam fainted” and is an old Ottoman heirloom dish. Here, whole eggplants are stuffed with a mixture of onions, garlic and tomatoes and simmered in olive oil before being served with rice and a dollop of yogurt. It is said to have got its name when an imam who was so overcome by pleasure after eating the dish, fainted.
Or maybe, the imam had just gotten a whiff of the stinking bishop…?
------
Toad-in-the-Hole
INGREDIENTS:
180 gm all-purpose flour
450 gm pork sausages (can be substituted with chicken sausages)
½ tsp salt
Pinch of freshly ground black pepper
3 eggs, beaten
350 ml milk
2 tbsp melted butter
1 tbsp vegetable oil
METHOD:
1. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour with the salt and a pinch of pepper. Make a well in the center of the flour. Pour in the eggs, milk, and melted butter into the well and whisk into the flour until smooth. Cover and let the batter stand for 30 minutes.
2. Grease the bottom and sides of a medium-sized, rectangular baking dish with a little vegetable oil. Preheat the oven to 220°C and place the empty dish in it.
3. Meanwhile, in a frying pan heat remaining oil on medium flame and fry the sausages till golden brown.
4. Put the sausages in the hot baking dish and pour the batter over the sausages and bake for about 20-30 minutes or until the batter is risen and golden.
5. Cut in wedges and serve warm alongside caramelised onions, brown sauce and buttery mashed potatoes.
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 10th October 2020 issue of The Hindu Business Line newspaper's BLink section on page 19 https://www.thehindubusinessline.com/blink/takeaway/foods-with-bizarre-names/article32804928.ece)
Saturday, February 8, 2020
Borderline Bizarre
An illegal U.S. border crossing simulation—as both a deterrent and for some hair-raising thrills—is the number one attraction at an amusement park in the central Mexican town of Ixmiquilpan.
By Raul Dias
The stillness of the night, that has for the last half an hour or so, been interrupted only by the drowsy hum of cicadas and the occasional sharp intake of breath is suddenly punctured by the shrill, polyphonic blaring of sirens. An enormous hummer, all lit up in flashing blue and red lights comes to a screeching halt. Four armored men wearing bullet-proof vests emblazoned with the words ‘U.S. Border Patrol’ spill out of the vehicle. Their 9mm handguns trained on our motley bunch of eight.
One of the Mexican guys in our group attempts an escape as he runs towards the river. “No van a cruzar el rio!”, a stocky border patrol agent yells at him in Spanish while firing a blank at the ground. “None of you are going to cross the river tonight,” he repeats, this time in accented English for the benefit of a few of us non-Mexicans.
We had been warned that this would most likely happen. And just like that we soon come to the grim realisation that our game is up. Quite literally.
The Night Walk
First things first. Everything mentioned in the above reimagination of that freezing cold night in September did take place. And no, it isn’t a fragment of some dystopian dream. Nor was I, contrary to what it might seem, attempting to illegally enter the United States of America.
Our ‘capture’ was, in fact, the culmination of a weekly four hour-long border crossing simulation activity offered by the Parque Eco Alberto, an amusement park in the central Mexican town of Ixmiquilpan. Earlier that day I had paid 350 Mexican pesos (Rs 1,320) to experience a ‘lite’ version of what thousands of people go through every single night of the year. All in the hope of making it to the ‘promised land’ on the other side, the United States of America.
Known as La Camina Nocturna or The Night Walk, the simulation has been taking place at the park every Saturday night since July 31, 2004. The walks are stewarded by locals, many of whom have tried to illegally cross into the U.S. themselves. And although the park is some 700 miles away from the actual Mexico-U.S. border, the experience can get alarmingly real as it creates conditions increasingly difficult to deal with.
Perilous Beginnings
Just like an actual illegal crossing deal, we are first introduced to our ski mask-clad guide, Macario Simon Reyes. The 38-year-old plays the role of el coyote as the human smugglers are known as in this part of the world. We assemble for prayers and a briefing in an abandoned white stucco Catholic church. It is here that we are warned about everything from the threat of kidnap at the hands of narco-traffickers to the possibility of dying from desert condition extremes such as heatstroke and hypothermia and even being eaten by wild animals.
“And if this seems extreme, reality is a whole other deal,” says Macario. “Many think that the simulation serves as a sort of training for illegal border crossings. But what we are doing couldn’t be more opposite. Our mission is to help stop the emigration by acting as a deterrent to those who might be thinking of doing so. It’s very difficult in reality. It’s very ugly”
For close to five hours one is expected to belly crawl through tunnels, march through mud and ford the Tula River that stands in for the infamous Rio Grande at the border. All this, while trying to avoid getting caught by la migra, as the border patrol agents are nicknamed.
Nunca Más
The park itself, I’m told, is partly funded by the government and communally owned by the indigenous Hñahñu tribe who live on 3,000 acres of land scattered across the state of Hidalgo. Interestingly, Macario tells me that at one point over 80% of Hidalgo’s population was lost to emigration, leaving Ixmiquilpan almost a ghost town. But not today. The population has increased over the years by almost an eighth. This he attributes not just to the deterrent message that the simulation conveys to the town’s youth, but also to the many jobs that it has created for the community. So much so that a recent report by U.S. Customs and Border Protection suggest that illegal crossings along the southern border are down by 72% in December 2019 compared to May 2019.
As we silently cross a barren field that we’ve been told might have rattlesnakes slithering around, I get talking with 19-year-old Pilar and her twin brother, who ironically shares my name, Raúl. “We left Mexico with our parents and illegally crossed the border into the U.S. when we were 10. But after being deported five years ago and to warn us of not attempting it on our own, our dad sent us here as an important reminder of what we went through.”
As we get debriefed by Macario after being ‘released’ by the faux border patrol agents, I ask the twins if the simulation was what they had expected. “We thought that it would be a lot easier. But it isn’t,” says an exhausted Raúl. “Since we’ve been back from the U.S., our whole family has come to cherish the liberty we have here in Mexico. No more running and being chased anymore. Never again. Nunca más!”
Travel log
Getting There
As there are no direct flights linking India with Mexico, one can get into Mexico City via connecting flights from most major US airports. From Mexico City, Ixmiquilpan is a pleasant three-hour bus journey away. Travel within Ixmiquilpan and to the Parque Eco Alberto is relatively easy with plenty of transport options including inexpensive taxis and public buses. Indians require a Mexican visa to visit the country that can be procured from the Mexican Embassy in New Delhi. However, the visa requirement is waived off for those in possession of a valid multiple entry US visa.
Stay
Being a relatively small town, accommodation options are limited in Ixmiquilpan, but there are a few decent, if a tad basic, hotels and guesthouses to spend a night or two in. One such option is the super low-key, but spotlessly clean Hotel Avenida Ixmiquilpan (www.hotelavenidaixmiquilpan.com.mx) with rooms overlooking a garden on the Avenue Insurgentes. Here, one can expect to pay around Rs 1,882 for a double room without breakfast. One for the few three star properties in town and one with an outdoor pool, Hotel Posada Centenario (www.posadacentenario.com) in the heart of the city has some really nice double rooms for around Rs 2,447 without breakfast.
Tip
* Besides being a hot springs town that is full of places where you can enjoy a soothing outdoor mineral bath, Ixmiquilpan also has a strong cultural side to it. The convent of San Miguel Archangel is famous for its blend of decorative styles. While the church’s wings on either side have murals in the Spanish style brought in by the Augustinian priests, its central nave has on its walls and ceiling frescoes by the indigenous Otomi Tlacuilos tribe.
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 8th February 2020 issue of The Hindu Business Line newspaper's BLink section on page 20 https://www.thehindubusinessline.com/blink/takeaway/simulated-illegal-border-crossing-in-a-mexican-amusement-park/article30751969.ece)
By Raul Dias
The stillness of the night, that has for the last half an hour or so, been interrupted only by the drowsy hum of cicadas and the occasional sharp intake of breath is suddenly punctured by the shrill, polyphonic blaring of sirens. An enormous hummer, all lit up in flashing blue and red lights comes to a screeching halt. Four armored men wearing bullet-proof vests emblazoned with the words ‘U.S. Border Patrol’ spill out of the vehicle. Their 9mm handguns trained on our motley bunch of eight.
One of the Mexican guys in our group attempts an escape as he runs towards the river. “No van a cruzar el rio!”, a stocky border patrol agent yells at him in Spanish while firing a blank at the ground. “None of you are going to cross the river tonight,” he repeats, this time in accented English for the benefit of a few of us non-Mexicans.
We had been warned that this would most likely happen. And just like that we soon come to the grim realisation that our game is up. Quite literally.
The Night Walk
First things first. Everything mentioned in the above reimagination of that freezing cold night in September did take place. And no, it isn’t a fragment of some dystopian dream. Nor was I, contrary to what it might seem, attempting to illegally enter the United States of America.
Our ‘capture’ was, in fact, the culmination of a weekly four hour-long border crossing simulation activity offered by the Parque Eco Alberto, an amusement park in the central Mexican town of Ixmiquilpan. Earlier that day I had paid 350 Mexican pesos (Rs 1,320) to experience a ‘lite’ version of what thousands of people go through every single night of the year. All in the hope of making it to the ‘promised land’ on the other side, the United States of America.
Known as La Camina Nocturna or The Night Walk, the simulation has been taking place at the park every Saturday night since July 31, 2004. The walks are stewarded by locals, many of whom have tried to illegally cross into the U.S. themselves. And although the park is some 700 miles away from the actual Mexico-U.S. border, the experience can get alarmingly real as it creates conditions increasingly difficult to deal with.
Perilous Beginnings
Just like an actual illegal crossing deal, we are first introduced to our ski mask-clad guide, Macario Simon Reyes. The 38-year-old plays the role of el coyote as the human smugglers are known as in this part of the world. We assemble for prayers and a briefing in an abandoned white stucco Catholic church. It is here that we are warned about everything from the threat of kidnap at the hands of narco-traffickers to the possibility of dying from desert condition extremes such as heatstroke and hypothermia and even being eaten by wild animals.
“And if this seems extreme, reality is a whole other deal,” says Macario. “Many think that the simulation serves as a sort of training for illegal border crossings. But what we are doing couldn’t be more opposite. Our mission is to help stop the emigration by acting as a deterrent to those who might be thinking of doing so. It’s very difficult in reality. It’s very ugly”
For close to five hours one is expected to belly crawl through tunnels, march through mud and ford the Tula River that stands in for the infamous Rio Grande at the border. All this, while trying to avoid getting caught by la migra, as the border patrol agents are nicknamed.
Nunca Más
The park itself, I’m told, is partly funded by the government and communally owned by the indigenous Hñahñu tribe who live on 3,000 acres of land scattered across the state of Hidalgo. Interestingly, Macario tells me that at one point over 80% of Hidalgo’s population was lost to emigration, leaving Ixmiquilpan almost a ghost town. But not today. The population has increased over the years by almost an eighth. This he attributes not just to the deterrent message that the simulation conveys to the town’s youth, but also to the many jobs that it has created for the community. So much so that a recent report by U.S. Customs and Border Protection suggest that illegal crossings along the southern border are down by 72% in December 2019 compared to May 2019.
As we silently cross a barren field that we’ve been told might have rattlesnakes slithering around, I get talking with 19-year-old Pilar and her twin brother, who ironically shares my name, Raúl. “We left Mexico with our parents and illegally crossed the border into the U.S. when we were 10. But after being deported five years ago and to warn us of not attempting it on our own, our dad sent us here as an important reminder of what we went through.”
As we get debriefed by Macario after being ‘released’ by the faux border patrol agents, I ask the twins if the simulation was what they had expected. “We thought that it would be a lot easier. But it isn’t,” says an exhausted Raúl. “Since we’ve been back from the U.S., our whole family has come to cherish the liberty we have here in Mexico. No more running and being chased anymore. Never again. Nunca más!”
Travel log
Getting There
As there are no direct flights linking India with Mexico, one can get into Mexico City via connecting flights from most major US airports. From Mexico City, Ixmiquilpan is a pleasant three-hour bus journey away. Travel within Ixmiquilpan and to the Parque Eco Alberto is relatively easy with plenty of transport options including inexpensive taxis and public buses. Indians require a Mexican visa to visit the country that can be procured from the Mexican Embassy in New Delhi. However, the visa requirement is waived off for those in possession of a valid multiple entry US visa.
Stay
Being a relatively small town, accommodation options are limited in Ixmiquilpan, but there are a few decent, if a tad basic, hotels and guesthouses to spend a night or two in. One such option is the super low-key, but spotlessly clean Hotel Avenida Ixmiquilpan (www.hotelavenidaixmiquilpan.com.mx) with rooms overlooking a garden on the Avenue Insurgentes. Here, one can expect to pay around Rs 1,882 for a double room without breakfast. One for the few three star properties in town and one with an outdoor pool, Hotel Posada Centenario (www.posadacentenario.com) in the heart of the city has some really nice double rooms for around Rs 2,447 without breakfast.
Tip
* Besides being a hot springs town that is full of places where you can enjoy a soothing outdoor mineral bath, Ixmiquilpan also has a strong cultural side to it. The convent of San Miguel Archangel is famous for its blend of decorative styles. While the church’s wings on either side have murals in the Spanish style brought in by the Augustinian priests, its central nave has on its walls and ceiling frescoes by the indigenous Otomi Tlacuilos tribe.
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 8th February 2020 issue of The Hindu Business Line newspaper's BLink section on page 20 https://www.thehindubusinessline.com/blink/takeaway/simulated-illegal-border-crossing-in-a-mexican-amusement-park/article30751969.ece)
Tuesday, May 14, 2019
Summer Travel—Your Way!
Summer travel is all about making the most of that much-needed vacation time. And so, we’ve put together a list of exciting getaways around the world for all sorts of travellers—be they couples on a romantic break or the solo adventurer on their own wanderlust-driven path.
By Raul Dias
For Full Family Fun
Toronto in Canada
Almost every year, this vibrant Canadian city makes it to the top of the list of the world’s most family-friendly destinations. And rightly so! Come summer and this usually frigid city blossoms into a family fun paradise with scores of attractions that have something for every member. The well-maintained Toronto Zoo is a paradise for animal lovers with everything from Canada’s native polar bears to baby rhinos and hundreds of other creatures there to see. Prefer the more aquatic kind of adventures? Then a deep-sea adventure awaits at Ripley’s Aquarium. The Bat Cave at the Royal Ontario Museum is a fun way for kids to discover the real stories behind these mysterious creatures. And for the sportier families, scale to the top of the CNN Tower and earn yourself a panoramic view of the city. But for a truly memorable vacation, head down to the Canadian side of the mighty Niagara Falls just over an hour by road from Toronto. Once there, take a ride aboard the Hornblower Niagara Cruise in the morning and head off on an aerial tour of the falls with National Helicopters in the afternoon.
Getting There: There are daily direct and connecting flights from both Mumbai and New Delhi and other Indian cities to Toronto on airlines like Air India, Jet Airways, Air Canada and Emirates.
For the Romantic Couple
Turtle Island in Fiji
Picture this. The two of you on a private beach somewhere in the South Pacific with the soft white sand squeaking under your feet, a calm breeze lulling you into sweet submission, while the azure waters provide the ambient soundtrack with their gentle lapping… Bliss, right? But what’s even better about this montage is that it can be your very own reality at the super-exclusive Turtle Island in Fiji’s Yasawa chain. As part of this all-inclusive island resort—that is home to only 14 couples at a time—you even get access to your very own private beach that is only one of the 14 others that the resort is famous for. From there, your eyes are met with stunning vistas of the renowned Blue Lagoon which is an icon of Fiji, having featured in the 1980’s movie of the same name. Besides a romantic private dinner and couples’ massages, the resort even tailor-makes all your aquatic adventure requirements, be it snorkelling or swimming with the dolphins. Ah, bliss!
Getting There: Connect from most cities in India to Nadi, Fiji via Hong Kong on Cathay Pacific in association with partner airline Fiji Airways. From Nadi, one can reach Turtle Island by taking a 30-minute seaplane flight.
For the Solo Traveller
Safaris and More in South Africa
There is very little doubt that for most travellers, the words ‘South Africa’ and ‘Safaris’ go hand-in-hand. Home to a wondrous selection of wildlife, including the coveted Big 5, the iconic national parks like Limpopo’s Kruger and Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park in Upington are the best places to get your fill. And better still if you’re a solo traveller. Most safari resorts like the Hamiltons Tented Camp in Kurger offer up a variety of activities from daily group safari drives to nightly bonfire BBQs where you can meet and swap stories with fellow solo guests. And once you’ve got your fill of the country’s number one calling card, head down to the Garden Route in South Africa’s Western Cape region which is just the place to indulge your every adrenaline-laced fantasy. With everything from cave exploring at the magnificent Cango Caves in the Klein Karoo area to bungy jumping at the world’s highest bungy off the Bloukrans Bridge (that fords over the Bloukrans River valley at a height of 216 meters!), the Garden Route has it all and then some more for the solo adventure seeker.
Getting There: The best way to get to South Africa from India is via Dubai on Emirates that has daily flights to and from Cape Town, Durban and Johannesburg. Once in South Africa, you can hire a car and drive to most national parks and down to the Garden Route as well.
For a Memorable ‘Pet-a-cation’
New York in the USA
For most of us with pets, the idea of leaving them alone while we waltz off on a vacation is pretty traumatic. No longer. As one of the world’s greatest pet-friendly cities, New York has a plethora of hotels—from the iconic The Peninsula near Central Park to the Hilton Times Square—that are more than happy to welcome you and your pet. Among one of the best hotels in the city, The Conrad in fashionable Lower Manhattan is so pet-friendly that guests travelling with their pets also have access to dog beds, bandanas, food bowls and additional amenities through the hotel’s pet program. It even provides you with private GPS-tracked dog walking services, which include a map of the route travelled, arrival and departure times, and a recap and photos of your pooch’s adventure. And for those travelling sans pet, but craving some non-human company, the Roxy Hotel Tribeca, one of Manhattan’s most stylish boutique hotels will even offer its in-house posse of goldfish to guests—free of charge—for the duration of their stay!
Getting There: There are daily direct flights from both Mumbai and New Delhi to New York on airlines like Air India, Jet Airways, Delta and United Airlines.
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the April-May-June 2019 issue of HDFC Imperia magazine)
By Raul Dias
For Full Family Fun
Toronto in Canada
Almost every year, this vibrant Canadian city makes it to the top of the list of the world’s most family-friendly destinations. And rightly so! Come summer and this usually frigid city blossoms into a family fun paradise with scores of attractions that have something for every member. The well-maintained Toronto Zoo is a paradise for animal lovers with everything from Canada’s native polar bears to baby rhinos and hundreds of other creatures there to see. Prefer the more aquatic kind of adventures? Then a deep-sea adventure awaits at Ripley’s Aquarium. The Bat Cave at the Royal Ontario Museum is a fun way for kids to discover the real stories behind these mysterious creatures. And for the sportier families, scale to the top of the CNN Tower and earn yourself a panoramic view of the city. But for a truly memorable vacation, head down to the Canadian side of the mighty Niagara Falls just over an hour by road from Toronto. Once there, take a ride aboard the Hornblower Niagara Cruise in the morning and head off on an aerial tour of the falls with National Helicopters in the afternoon.
Getting There: There are daily direct and connecting flights from both Mumbai and New Delhi and other Indian cities to Toronto on airlines like Air India, Jet Airways, Air Canada and Emirates.
For the Romantic Couple
Turtle Island in Fiji
Picture this. The two of you on a private beach somewhere in the South Pacific with the soft white sand squeaking under your feet, a calm breeze lulling you into sweet submission, while the azure waters provide the ambient soundtrack with their gentle lapping… Bliss, right? But what’s even better about this montage is that it can be your very own reality at the super-exclusive Turtle Island in Fiji’s Yasawa chain. As part of this all-inclusive island resort—that is home to only 14 couples at a time—you even get access to your very own private beach that is only one of the 14 others that the resort is famous for. From there, your eyes are met with stunning vistas of the renowned Blue Lagoon which is an icon of Fiji, having featured in the 1980’s movie of the same name. Besides a romantic private dinner and couples’ massages, the resort even tailor-makes all your aquatic adventure requirements, be it snorkelling or swimming with the dolphins. Ah, bliss!
Getting There: Connect from most cities in India to Nadi, Fiji via Hong Kong on Cathay Pacific in association with partner airline Fiji Airways. From Nadi, one can reach Turtle Island by taking a 30-minute seaplane flight.
For the Solo Traveller
Safaris and More in South Africa
There is very little doubt that for most travellers, the words ‘South Africa’ and ‘Safaris’ go hand-in-hand. Home to a wondrous selection of wildlife, including the coveted Big 5, the iconic national parks like Limpopo’s Kruger and Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park in Upington are the best places to get your fill. And better still if you’re a solo traveller. Most safari resorts like the Hamiltons Tented Camp in Kurger offer up a variety of activities from daily group safari drives to nightly bonfire BBQs where you can meet and swap stories with fellow solo guests. And once you’ve got your fill of the country’s number one calling card, head down to the Garden Route in South Africa’s Western Cape region which is just the place to indulge your every adrenaline-laced fantasy. With everything from cave exploring at the magnificent Cango Caves in the Klein Karoo area to bungy jumping at the world’s highest bungy off the Bloukrans Bridge (that fords over the Bloukrans River valley at a height of 216 meters!), the Garden Route has it all and then some more for the solo adventure seeker.
Getting There: The best way to get to South Africa from India is via Dubai on Emirates that has daily flights to and from Cape Town, Durban and Johannesburg. Once in South Africa, you can hire a car and drive to most national parks and down to the Garden Route as well.
For a Memorable ‘Pet-a-cation’
New York in the USA
For most of us with pets, the idea of leaving them alone while we waltz off on a vacation is pretty traumatic. No longer. As one of the world’s greatest pet-friendly cities, New York has a plethora of hotels—from the iconic The Peninsula near Central Park to the Hilton Times Square—that are more than happy to welcome you and your pet. Among one of the best hotels in the city, The Conrad in fashionable Lower Manhattan is so pet-friendly that guests travelling with their pets also have access to dog beds, bandanas, food bowls and additional amenities through the hotel’s pet program. It even provides you with private GPS-tracked dog walking services, which include a map of the route travelled, arrival and departure times, and a recap and photos of your pooch’s adventure. And for those travelling sans pet, but craving some non-human company, the Roxy Hotel Tribeca, one of Manhattan’s most stylish boutique hotels will even offer its in-house posse of goldfish to guests—free of charge—for the duration of their stay!
Getting There: There are daily direct flights from both Mumbai and New Delhi to New York on airlines like Air India, Jet Airways, Delta and United Airlines.
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the April-May-June 2019 issue of HDFC Imperia magazine)
Sunday, May 12, 2019
The Louisville Layover
As the crown jewel of the American South, Louisville is not just the state of Kentucky’s largest city, but one that is a treasure trove of historical and culturally significant landmarks and attractions, perfect for a weekend jaunt, discovers Raul Dias
By Raul Dias
There’s just something about the city of Louisville that gives it a very regal cachet. And I’m not just alluding to the fact that it was named in honour of Louis XVI the last King of France. Sitting pretty on the banks of the Ohio River along Kentucky’s border with the neighbouring state of Indiana, Louisville seems stuck in a time warp with its colonial red brick buildings and wide tree-lined boulevards that once saw horse-drawn carriages traipse up and down.
But that’s not to say that the city doesn’t have a side that’s refreshingly modern and avant-garde, ably referenced by the tall glass and steel buildings that can be found downtown. From a dynamic food and live music scene to some of the best museums in the USA dedicated to culture and sport, a short layover in Louisville is enough to get a pulse of the city and to enjoy all it has to offer…and then some more!
Home of the Champ
Paying rich homage to the legendary Muhammad Ali one of the city’s favourite sons, is the Muhammad Ali Center located in Louisville’s West Main District. Opened in 2005, this multi-level cultural centre-cum-museum features exhibitions in consonance with the Champ’s six core principles of confidence, conviction, dedication, giving, respect, and spirituality. For lovers of art, trek up to the third level that houses two art galleries, the LeRoy Neiman Gallery and the Howard L. Bingham Gallery, each featuring temporary exhibits. And once you’re done knowing all there is to know about the amazing life and career of the late pugilist, take the 170-foot-long pedestrian walkway that connects the Center’s plaza to the Belvedere, the Waterfront, and other downtown attractions.
Enter the Palace
“Enter and view with astonishment the magnificence that the hand of man has wrought. The more you look, the more you will see,” said the Courier Journal newspaper when The Louisville Palace first opened its baroque doors. This was exactly 90 years ago on the 1st of September 1928 when it debuted as a cinema hall. And we couldn’t agree more. Snugly wedged between Broadway and Chestnut Street on the east side of Fourth Street in Downtown Louisville’s theatre district, this all-important historical landmark today plays host to a varied bunch of gigs that range from Broadway attractions and international performing arts presentations to concerts by gospel, R&B and country artists. All this, in a beautifully ornate main concert hall with a capacity to seat 2,800 people.
Take a Bite of History
What the deep-dish pizza is to Chicago, the Hot Brown is to Louisville. Born out of sheer inventive genius—as most great things are—this open-face sandwich was created at West Broadway’s Brown Hotel (hence its name) by Chef Fred Schmidt in the 1920s as a late-night snack to soak up all that post bar hopping alcohol. Here, a single slice of bread is loaded up with sliced turkey and bacon and slathered with cheese sauce before being placed in an oven to crisp up. Though several versions of the sandwich are available all over Louisville, we would place all our money on this one at the Brown Hotel. Interestingly, it was at the Seelbach Hotel, a few blocks away where Al Capone would regularly meet with associates during the Prohibition era. And speaking of prohibition, another Louisville landmark, the Pendennis Club, is where the Old-Fashioned cocktail is believed to have been invented.
Belle of The Ball!
Of great significance to the city of Louisville from the time of the indigenous Shawnee people and the early European settlers to this very day, the arterial Ohio River is the city’s most beloved icons. And occupying prime position sailing along its gentle waters is another icon. Decked up to the nines like a true-blue ‘Southern Belle’, the Belle of Louisville is a steamboat that was built in 1914 by the James Rees & Sons Company in Pittsburgh up north when she was known as the Idlewild. Today, you can step into a piece of living American history by going for a two-hour dinner cruise aboard this beauty who meanders her way along the river showing you all of Louisville’s sights by night, before homing back in to her berth at the downtown wharf next to the well-appointed Riverfront Plaza.
(An edited version of this column first appeared in the 12th May 2019 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Weekend section on page 3 https://www.freepressjournal.in/travel/louisville-a-treasure-trove-of-history-and-culture/1523697)
By Raul Dias
There’s just something about the city of Louisville that gives it a very regal cachet. And I’m not just alluding to the fact that it was named in honour of Louis XVI the last King of France. Sitting pretty on the banks of the Ohio River along Kentucky’s border with the neighbouring state of Indiana, Louisville seems stuck in a time warp with its colonial red brick buildings and wide tree-lined boulevards that once saw horse-drawn carriages traipse up and down.
But that’s not to say that the city doesn’t have a side that’s refreshingly modern and avant-garde, ably referenced by the tall glass and steel buildings that can be found downtown. From a dynamic food and live music scene to some of the best museums in the USA dedicated to culture and sport, a short layover in Louisville is enough to get a pulse of the city and to enjoy all it has to offer…and then some more!
Home of the Champ
Paying rich homage to the legendary Muhammad Ali one of the city’s favourite sons, is the Muhammad Ali Center located in Louisville’s West Main District. Opened in 2005, this multi-level cultural centre-cum-museum features exhibitions in consonance with the Champ’s six core principles of confidence, conviction, dedication, giving, respect, and spirituality. For lovers of art, trek up to the third level that houses two art galleries, the LeRoy Neiman Gallery and the Howard L. Bingham Gallery, each featuring temporary exhibits. And once you’re done knowing all there is to know about the amazing life and career of the late pugilist, take the 170-foot-long pedestrian walkway that connects the Center’s plaza to the Belvedere, the Waterfront, and other downtown attractions.
Enter the Palace
“Enter and view with astonishment the magnificence that the hand of man has wrought. The more you look, the more you will see,” said the Courier Journal newspaper when The Louisville Palace first opened its baroque doors. This was exactly 90 years ago on the 1st of September 1928 when it debuted as a cinema hall. And we couldn’t agree more. Snugly wedged between Broadway and Chestnut Street on the east side of Fourth Street in Downtown Louisville’s theatre district, this all-important historical landmark today plays host to a varied bunch of gigs that range from Broadway attractions and international performing arts presentations to concerts by gospel, R&B and country artists. All this, in a beautifully ornate main concert hall with a capacity to seat 2,800 people.
Take a Bite of History
What the deep-dish pizza is to Chicago, the Hot Brown is to Louisville. Born out of sheer inventive genius—as most great things are—this open-face sandwich was created at West Broadway’s Brown Hotel (hence its name) by Chef Fred Schmidt in the 1920s as a late-night snack to soak up all that post bar hopping alcohol. Here, a single slice of bread is loaded up with sliced turkey and bacon and slathered with cheese sauce before being placed in an oven to crisp up. Though several versions of the sandwich are available all over Louisville, we would place all our money on this one at the Brown Hotel. Interestingly, it was at the Seelbach Hotel, a few blocks away where Al Capone would regularly meet with associates during the Prohibition era. And speaking of prohibition, another Louisville landmark, the Pendennis Club, is where the Old-Fashioned cocktail is believed to have been invented.
Belle of The Ball!
Of great significance to the city of Louisville from the time of the indigenous Shawnee people and the early European settlers to this very day, the arterial Ohio River is the city’s most beloved icons. And occupying prime position sailing along its gentle waters is another icon. Decked up to the nines like a true-blue ‘Southern Belle’, the Belle of Louisville is a steamboat that was built in 1914 by the James Rees & Sons Company in Pittsburgh up north when she was known as the Idlewild. Today, you can step into a piece of living American history by going for a two-hour dinner cruise aboard this beauty who meanders her way along the river showing you all of Louisville’s sights by night, before homing back in to her berth at the downtown wharf next to the well-appointed Riverfront Plaza.
(An edited version of this column first appeared in the 12th May 2019 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Weekend section on page 3 https://www.freepressjournal.in/travel/louisville-a-treasure-trove-of-history-and-culture/1523697)
Sunday, March 3, 2019
Celebrating Her!
In the run up to next week’s International Women’s Day on 8th March, this Sunday Raul Dias takes you to four museums around the world that are dedicated to the indomitable spirit of the woman in all her strength and glory.
By Raul Dias
Having my birthday fall exactly a day after 8th March’s International Women’s Day, the day has always been a significant one in my life. Coming from a family dominated by extremely strong, successful ladies, I’ve always held women in the highest esteem. So much so, that, whenever I travel, I try and fit in at least one activity that celebrates a woman the way she should be—with respect and admiration. Be it learning the finer nuances of batik painting in Indonesia from a very patient lady or partaking in a voodoo ritual conducted by a high priestess in New Orleans!
And so, the following article is a collation of my various visits over the years to museums around the world that are significantly different from the scores of others I have visited. Welcome to some of the best ‘Women’s Museums’—from America to Africa and from the UAE to the UK. Places that focus on everything from the history of women’s political, social and cultural equality to some stunning works of art for and by women…
Women’s Museum
Dubai, UAE
Located in Dubai’s historic quarter of Deira, the Women’s Museum is housed in a building called Bait al Banat, which translates to “The Girls House”. Built in the 1950s, this former residential home was said to be the place where three unmarried Emirati sisters once lived. Today, besides being a museum, the space is a national archive and documentation center. It is dedicated to exploring the different facets of the lives of Emirati women—professional and personal, past and present. It includes artwork by various female Emirati artists and photographs showing the contributions of Emirati women. Examples of their Emirati jewellery and dresses and an exploration of how past and current rulers have affected the role of women in the UAE can also be found in this fascinating one-of-a-kind museum.
National Cowgirl Museum
Fort Worth, USA
This museum dedicated to women’s empowerment in a very interesting and unique way, was first started in 1975 in the basement of the Deaf Smith County Library in Hereford, Texas. It was removed to Fort Worth, also in Texas in 1994 and is today dedicated to honouring women of the American West who have displayed extraordinary courage and pioneering fortitude. The museum is an educational resource with exhibits, a research library, and rare photography collections. Among its many permanent exhibits, “Into the Arena,” is one of the most fascinating ones. This one covers women in the fields of rodeo and trick riding, as well as modern horsewomen of note such as Belmont Stakes winning jockey Julie Krone. It has interactive computer displays, rodeo memorabilia, clothing, and other rodeo artifacts. However, I personally enjoyed the “Claiming the Spotlight” exbibit that shows the cowgirl as represented in media, and the varying roles the archetypical cowgirl has played in film, television, advertising and music.
Karen Blixen Museum
Nairobi, Kenya
Just as one would expect a museum dedicated to an author who was so in love with the wilds of Africa, the Karen Blixen Museum is housed at the foot of the Ngong Hills, around 10 km outside of the Kenyan capital of Nairobi. The life of the Danish writer who was famous for her book Out of Africa is celebrated so wondrously in this well-appointed museum housed in a colonial-style bungalow. The house and its attached property were bought in 1917 by Blixen and her husband, Baron Bror von Blixen-Finecke with the intention of operating a coffee plantation. After the Blixens separated in 1921, Karen Blixen continued to live at the house and run the plantation until she returned to Denmark 1931. Her life here is chronicled both in her most famous aforementioned book, as well as in her other book Shadows of the Grass. At the museum, one can join the guided tours of the house, which features rooms designed in both the original decor and with props from the 1985 film that was based on Out of Africa and know more about Blixen’s fascinating life.
Florence Nightingale Museum
London, UK
Another great woman whose life and work is celebrated in a specially dedicated museum is the world’s most famous nurse Florence Nightingale. Located on the banks of the river Thames opposite the Houses of Parliament in London, the museum attracts visitors from all over the world who want to learn more about the ‘Lady with the Lamp’ and her Victorian world. Here you can also examine Florence’s legacy, her influence on nursing today and the continuing relevance of her work. The Florence Nightingale Museum even runs a busy learning programme for schools and families activities, as well as a lively events programme with regular afternoon and event talks. Make sure to check the museum’s schedule to see what’s on before you visit!
(An edited version of this column first appeard in the 3rd March 2019 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Weekend section on page 3 https://www.freepressjournal.in/travel/international-womens-day-2019-4-museums-around-the-world-dedicated-to-the-indomitable-spirit-of-woman/1472637)
By Raul Dias
Having my birthday fall exactly a day after 8th March’s International Women’s Day, the day has always been a significant one in my life. Coming from a family dominated by extremely strong, successful ladies, I’ve always held women in the highest esteem. So much so, that, whenever I travel, I try and fit in at least one activity that celebrates a woman the way she should be—with respect and admiration. Be it learning the finer nuances of batik painting in Indonesia from a very patient lady or partaking in a voodoo ritual conducted by a high priestess in New Orleans!
And so, the following article is a collation of my various visits over the years to museums around the world that are significantly different from the scores of others I have visited. Welcome to some of the best ‘Women’s Museums’—from America to Africa and from the UAE to the UK. Places that focus on everything from the history of women’s political, social and cultural equality to some stunning works of art for and by women…
Women’s Museum
Dubai, UAE
Located in Dubai’s historic quarter of Deira, the Women’s Museum is housed in a building called Bait al Banat, which translates to “The Girls House”. Built in the 1950s, this former residential home was said to be the place where three unmarried Emirati sisters once lived. Today, besides being a museum, the space is a national archive and documentation center. It is dedicated to exploring the different facets of the lives of Emirati women—professional and personal, past and present. It includes artwork by various female Emirati artists and photographs showing the contributions of Emirati women. Examples of their Emirati jewellery and dresses and an exploration of how past and current rulers have affected the role of women in the UAE can also be found in this fascinating one-of-a-kind museum.
National Cowgirl Museum
Fort Worth, USA
This museum dedicated to women’s empowerment in a very interesting and unique way, was first started in 1975 in the basement of the Deaf Smith County Library in Hereford, Texas. It was removed to Fort Worth, also in Texas in 1994 and is today dedicated to honouring women of the American West who have displayed extraordinary courage and pioneering fortitude. The museum is an educational resource with exhibits, a research library, and rare photography collections. Among its many permanent exhibits, “Into the Arena,” is one of the most fascinating ones. This one covers women in the fields of rodeo and trick riding, as well as modern horsewomen of note such as Belmont Stakes winning jockey Julie Krone. It has interactive computer displays, rodeo memorabilia, clothing, and other rodeo artifacts. However, I personally enjoyed the “Claiming the Spotlight” exbibit that shows the cowgirl as represented in media, and the varying roles the archetypical cowgirl has played in film, television, advertising and music.
Karen Blixen Museum
Nairobi, Kenya
Just as one would expect a museum dedicated to an author who was so in love with the wilds of Africa, the Karen Blixen Museum is housed at the foot of the Ngong Hills, around 10 km outside of the Kenyan capital of Nairobi. The life of the Danish writer who was famous for her book Out of Africa is celebrated so wondrously in this well-appointed museum housed in a colonial-style bungalow. The house and its attached property were bought in 1917 by Blixen and her husband, Baron Bror von Blixen-Finecke with the intention of operating a coffee plantation. After the Blixens separated in 1921, Karen Blixen continued to live at the house and run the plantation until she returned to Denmark 1931. Her life here is chronicled both in her most famous aforementioned book, as well as in her other book Shadows of the Grass. At the museum, one can join the guided tours of the house, which features rooms designed in both the original decor and with props from the 1985 film that was based on Out of Africa and know more about Blixen’s fascinating life.
Florence Nightingale Museum
London, UK
Another great woman whose life and work is celebrated in a specially dedicated museum is the world’s most famous nurse Florence Nightingale. Located on the banks of the river Thames opposite the Houses of Parliament in London, the museum attracts visitors from all over the world who want to learn more about the ‘Lady with the Lamp’ and her Victorian world. Here you can also examine Florence’s legacy, her influence on nursing today and the continuing relevance of her work. The Florence Nightingale Museum even runs a busy learning programme for schools and families activities, as well as a lively events programme with regular afternoon and event talks. Make sure to check the museum’s schedule to see what’s on before you visit!
(An edited version of this column first appeard in the 3rd March 2019 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Weekend section on page 3 https://www.freepressjournal.in/travel/international-womens-day-2019-4-museums-around-the-world-dedicated-to-the-indomitable-spirit-of-woman/1472637)
Sunday, November 4, 2018
Around the World in Four Diwalis!
Ready for some hardcore Diwali celebrations—international
style? Raul Dias takes you to four
places around the world, where the Festival of Lights is celebrated by the
Indian diaspora with as much gusto as it is back home in India
By Raul Dias
New
York City
With perhaps one of the strongest Indian diaspora in all of North America, New York City puts on a spectacular show every year for Diwali. One of the most iconic of all these celebrations is the annual ‘Diwali at Times Square’. It is an eight-hour celebration that has everything from live performances and fashion shows to dance and music competitions, photography exhibition and other creative programs like rangoli making. It truly is a spectacular sight when the entire skyline of New York City dazzles with fireworks during Times Square Diwali. Another interesting take on Diwali celebrations in NYC is the Diwali Motorcade and Cultural Show, hosted by the Divya Jyoti Association of New York at Richmond Hill in New York City. The show comprises creative entertainment programs including a parade, a havan ceremony, worship of Goddess Lakshmi, with the event culminating in awarding prizes to the best decorated vehicles.
With perhaps one of the strongest Indian diaspora in all of North America, New York City puts on a spectacular show every year for Diwali. One of the most iconic of all these celebrations is the annual ‘Diwali at Times Square’. It is an eight-hour celebration that has everything from live performances and fashion shows to dance and music competitions, photography exhibition and other creative programs like rangoli making. It truly is a spectacular sight when the entire skyline of New York City dazzles with fireworks during Times Square Diwali. Another interesting take on Diwali celebrations in NYC is the Diwali Motorcade and Cultural Show, hosted by the Divya Jyoti Association of New York at Richmond Hill in New York City. The show comprises creative entertainment programs including a parade, a havan ceremony, worship of Goddess Lakshmi, with the event culminating in awarding prizes to the best decorated vehicles.
Guyana
While not many of us can claim to be familiar with Guyana, here Diwali is a very big deal! Located on the northeast coast of South America, Guyana (formerly known as British Guiana) may not be large geographically speaking, but it does have a sizeable population of about 7,70,000 Hindus who constitute around 33% of the country’s total population. Celebrated according to the Hindu solar calendar, the day of the festival is declared as a national holiday after it is believed to have been brought to Guyana in the year 1853 by the first indentured people from India. Similar to India, the celebration of Diwali includes distribution of sweets, illuminating the inside and outside of the house, exchange of greetings, cleaning of houses and wearing of new clothes along with making sweets like pera (peda), barfi, and kheer.
While not many of us can claim to be familiar with Guyana, here Diwali is a very big deal! Located on the northeast coast of South America, Guyana (formerly known as British Guiana) may not be large geographically speaking, but it does have a sizeable population of about 7,70,000 Hindus who constitute around 33% of the country’s total population. Celebrated according to the Hindu solar calendar, the day of the festival is declared as a national holiday after it is believed to have been brought to Guyana in the year 1853 by the first indentured people from India. Similar to India, the celebration of Diwali includes distribution of sweets, illuminating the inside and outside of the house, exchange of greetings, cleaning of houses and wearing of new clothes along with making sweets like pera (peda), barfi, and kheer.
Malaysia
Along with the indigenous Malay and Chinese people, Indians—mainly of South Indian ethnicity—make up a third of the population of Malaysia. Known as Hari Deepavali, the festival is celebrated almost all over the Malaysia except in Sarawak and the Federal Territory of Labuan. While it is a public holiday in Malaysia and celebrated here with plenty of lights, there is a ‘silent’ twist to the festivities as fire crackers are banned in Malaysia. One of the best places in the Malaysian capital of Kuala Lumpur to get a feel of the pomp and splendor of Diwali is the city’s very own Little India that can be found in the Brickfields District near Bangsar. Here, the neighbourhood’s main street of Jalan Tun Sambanthan is full of the sights, smells, sounds and tastes of a true-blue Indian Diwali. Shops selling aromatic spices sit next to those blasting the latest Bollywood ditties. Traditional clothes such as saris along with jewellery, flower sellers along with the South Indian’s favourite Banana Leaf restaurants can all be found here.
Along with the indigenous Malay and Chinese people, Indians—mainly of South Indian ethnicity—make up a third of the population of Malaysia. Known as Hari Deepavali, the festival is celebrated almost all over the Malaysia except in Sarawak and the Federal Territory of Labuan. While it is a public holiday in Malaysia and celebrated here with plenty of lights, there is a ‘silent’ twist to the festivities as fire crackers are banned in Malaysia. One of the best places in the Malaysian capital of Kuala Lumpur to get a feel of the pomp and splendor of Diwali is the city’s very own Little India that can be found in the Brickfields District near Bangsar. Here, the neighbourhood’s main street of Jalan Tun Sambanthan is full of the sights, smells, sounds and tastes of a true-blue Indian Diwali. Shops selling aromatic spices sit next to those blasting the latest Bollywood ditties. Traditional clothes such as saris along with jewellery, flower sellers along with the South Indian’s favourite Banana Leaf restaurants can all be found here.
London
If New York has its Times Square Diwali, London too has its wildly popular ‘Diwali on Trafalgar Square’ to boast of! Every year, The Diwali in London (DiL) committee, in partnership with the Mayor of London, brings Diwali On Trafalgar Square (DOTS) to London. This free for all celebration consists of music and dance performances, family-friendly craft activities, community stalls and delicious food from India and beyond, as part of a large programme of activities. Speaking of which, one of star attractions for this year at DOTS is the ‘Mass Ghoomar Dance’. A traditional folk dance of the Bhil tribe that is performed in worship of Goddess Sarasvati, the dance typically involves female performers twirling in and out of a wide circle. It is traditional for a newly married bride to dance the ghoomar on moving into her marital home.
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 4th November 2018 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Weekend section on page 3 http://epaper.freepressjournal.in/m5/1883169/Free-Press-Mumbai-Edition/04-Nov-2018?fbclid=IwAR0Olf47HKsgN29ZP7lM3P2kzz140mmw08xMrf8WthNBHV2by3o1nxLZjCE#page/19/1)
If New York has its Times Square Diwali, London too has its wildly popular ‘Diwali on Trafalgar Square’ to boast of! Every year, The Diwali in London (DiL) committee, in partnership with the Mayor of London, brings Diwali On Trafalgar Square (DOTS) to London. This free for all celebration consists of music and dance performances, family-friendly craft activities, community stalls and delicious food from India and beyond, as part of a large programme of activities. Speaking of which, one of star attractions for this year at DOTS is the ‘Mass Ghoomar Dance’. A traditional folk dance of the Bhil tribe that is performed in worship of Goddess Sarasvati, the dance typically involves female performers twirling in and out of a wide circle. It is traditional for a newly married bride to dance the ghoomar on moving into her marital home.
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 4th November 2018 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Weekend section on page 3 http://epaper.freepressjournal.in/m5/1883169/Free-Press-Mumbai-Edition/04-Nov-2018?fbclid=IwAR0Olf47HKsgN29ZP7lM3P2kzz140mmw08xMrf8WthNBHV2by3o1nxLZjCE#page/19/1)
Sunday, October 7, 2018
A-N-A-T-O-M-I-Z-E: $1,000 Golden Opulence Sundae
By Raul Dias
There with three other friends to get my quarter share of the world’s most expensive $214 grilled cheese sandwich, little did I realise that I’d soon be a spectator to an extravaganza that would make our shared sandwich seem as cheap as chips! With an average of just one order of the $1,000 Golden Opulence Sundae placed every month, its rather public assemblage is pure theater.
Three scoops of rare Tahitian vanilla bean ice cream—that are further flecked with Madagascar vanilla drawn straight from the pod—are placed in a Baccarat Harcourt crystal goblet that’s lined with 23k gold leaf, or what we in India know as varq. Alternating each ice cream scoop is the ladling of a luscious sauce made from melted Amedei Porcelana, which is one of the world’s most expensive chocolate. The sundae is then given a shower of goodies like truffles of rare Chuao chocolate made from cocoa beans cultivated off the coast of Venezuela, golden almond dragées and glacé candied fruit from Fauchon in Paris.
Topping it all off is a dusting of actual American Golden caviar harvested from the whitefish which lives in the Northern Great Lakes. But here, a salt-free version of the caviar is used that’s macerated in fresh passion fruit and orange juices along with a splash of Armagnac. And if all that’s not enough for you, more gold leaf is added. And a final garnish of an edible, gold paint-dipped sugar orchid crowns it, as it is placed in front of you with a 18k solid gold sundae spoon.
And yes, you can keep the goblet. But it’s an emphatic “NO” to the golden spoon!
(This column first appeared in the 7th October 2018 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 8)
Thursday, October 4, 2018
Between Breads
From its frugal beginnings—when it was put together by
the 4th Earl of Sandwich as a quick-n-easy hunting trip snack to its
various gourmet avatars available today—the ubiquitous sandwich sure has come a
long way. As gourmands across the world prepare to celebrate the annual
International Sandwich Day on the 3rd of November, we bring you a
serving of a few famous sandwiches from around the world
By Raul Dias
The
Philly Cheesesteak, USA
As its name suggests, this iconic submarine-style sandwich has its origins in the state of Philadelphia and the city of Boston to be more specific. So, what we have here is a long hoagie bread roll holding within its soft center, thinly sliced slivers of meat and grilled sweet, white onions all slathered with the luridly yellow coloured Cheese Whiz cheese sauce. And while the rest of America and even the world has produced several, rather ersatz iterations of the Philly Cheesesteak sandwich, the original is a true-blue Bostonian. Right down to legendary ‘war’ between two rival cheesesteak sandwich shops Pat’s and Geno’s, located bang opposite each other at the triangular intersection of 9th St, Wharton St and Passyunk Ave. in the city’s South Philly neighbourhood.
As its name suggests, this iconic submarine-style sandwich has its origins in the state of Philadelphia and the city of Boston to be more specific. So, what we have here is a long hoagie bread roll holding within its soft center, thinly sliced slivers of meat and grilled sweet, white onions all slathered with the luridly yellow coloured Cheese Whiz cheese sauce. And while the rest of America and even the world has produced several, rather ersatz iterations of the Philly Cheesesteak sandwich, the original is a true-blue Bostonian. Right down to legendary ‘war’ between two rival cheesesteak sandwich shops Pat’s and Geno’s, located bang opposite each other at the triangular intersection of 9th St, Wharton St and Passyunk Ave. in the city’s South Philly neighbourhood.
The
Bánh Mì, Vietnam
As a lasting ‘legacy’ of its French colonial past, Vietnam’s most iconic street-side snack the Bánh Mì has more than a few elements that reference the, well…French connection! A mini French baguette also called a bánh mì is split lengthwise and layered with a fusion of meats and vegetables from Vietnamese cuisine such as chả lụa sausage, fresh coriander, cucumber ribbons, and pickled carrots and daikon radish, combined with condiments from French cuisine such as pâté along with jalapeño chillies and a sweet-spicy mayonnaise. A typical Saigon dish, the Bánh Mì came into being after the 1954 Partition of Vietnam when migrants moved from North Vietnam to South Vietnam, putting their stamp on Saigon’s local cuisine. Today, one of the best places in Ho Chi Minh City, as Saigon is known as today, to try a Bánh Mì is at the Bánh Mì Bùi Thị Xuân restaurant in the Phạm Ngũ Lão backpacker ghetto.
As a lasting ‘legacy’ of its French colonial past, Vietnam’s most iconic street-side snack the Bánh Mì has more than a few elements that reference the, well…French connection! A mini French baguette also called a bánh mì is split lengthwise and layered with a fusion of meats and vegetables from Vietnamese cuisine such as chả lụa sausage, fresh coriander, cucumber ribbons, and pickled carrots and daikon radish, combined with condiments from French cuisine such as pâté along with jalapeño chillies and a sweet-spicy mayonnaise. A typical Saigon dish, the Bánh Mì came into being after the 1954 Partition of Vietnam when migrants moved from North Vietnam to South Vietnam, putting their stamp on Saigon’s local cuisine. Today, one of the best places in Ho Chi Minh City, as Saigon is known as today, to try a Bánh Mì is at the Bánh Mì Bùi Thị Xuân restaurant in the Phạm Ngũ Lão backpacker ghetto.
The
Torta Ahogada, Mexico
Like most great sandwiches, the Torta Ahogada has extremely humble underpinnings as a working man’s lunch. Here the porous, yet firm birote bread which has a thick, crunchy crust and softer interior is filled with slices of fried meat or chicken along with cheese and beans. The sandwich is then dunked into a vat of sauce made from vinegar, arbol chilies, garlic, oregano, and other spices and served in its soggy state with a side of tortillas, onion rings and slices of cooling avocado. Invented in the early 1900s in the Mexican city of Gudalajara—with the word ‘torta’ meaning sandwich and ‘agohada’ meaning drowned—several theories abound as to its genesis. One such belief is that the sandwich maker accidentally dropped his freshly made torta into a pan of chilli salsa and his customer loved it so much he kept repeating his ‘mistake’ to remarkable success. But whatever be its origins, one thing is clear: this spicy, messy sandwich is a multisensory treat!
Like most great sandwiches, the Torta Ahogada has extremely humble underpinnings as a working man’s lunch. Here the porous, yet firm birote bread which has a thick, crunchy crust and softer interior is filled with slices of fried meat or chicken along with cheese and beans. The sandwich is then dunked into a vat of sauce made from vinegar, arbol chilies, garlic, oregano, and other spices and served in its soggy state with a side of tortillas, onion rings and slices of cooling avocado. Invented in the early 1900s in the Mexican city of Gudalajara—with the word ‘torta’ meaning sandwich and ‘agohada’ meaning drowned—several theories abound as to its genesis. One such belief is that the sandwich maker accidentally dropped his freshly made torta into a pan of chilli salsa and his customer loved it so much he kept repeating his ‘mistake’ to remarkable success. But whatever be its origins, one thing is clear: this spicy, messy sandwich is a multisensory treat!
The
Balik Ekmek, Turkey
One of the best things about this humble fish sandwich called Balik Ekmek (literally meaning “fish bread”) is that you don’t have to look too hard to find one to treat yourself with when in the Turkish capital of Istanbul. Simply let your olfactory senses lead you to the nearest boat selling this street…err, we mean waterside delicacy! On either sides of the city’s mighty Galata Bridge, in the waterfront neighbourhoods of Eminonu and Karakoy, you can find boats lined up with makeshift grills set up on them dispensing these yummy treats for around 5 Turkish Lira (Rs 56) a piece. What you’ll get is a sturdy round Turkish bread stuffed with a deboned filet of either grilled or fried oily fish such as sardines or mackerel topped with hot sauce and accompanied by sides of raw onion rings, radish, lettuce and a wedge of lemon.
One of the best things about this humble fish sandwich called Balik Ekmek (literally meaning “fish bread”) is that you don’t have to look too hard to find one to treat yourself with when in the Turkish capital of Istanbul. Simply let your olfactory senses lead you to the nearest boat selling this street…err, we mean waterside delicacy! On either sides of the city’s mighty Galata Bridge, in the waterfront neighbourhoods of Eminonu and Karakoy, you can find boats lined up with makeshift grills set up on them dispensing these yummy treats for around 5 Turkish Lira (Rs 56) a piece. What you’ll get is a sturdy round Turkish bread stuffed with a deboned filet of either grilled or fried oily fish such as sardines or mackerel topped with hot sauce and accompanied by sides of raw onion rings, radish, lettuce and a wedge of lemon.
The
Chip Butty, UK
While this aberration of a sandwich might sound like a carb-on-carb keto diet nightmare, let us assure you that one bite of this classic, yet insanely simple British sandwich and you’ll surrender to its charms. Known as a ‘butty’ in the local vernacular, a sandwich is that quintessential British snack whose avatars are numerous, from the dainty cucumber and watercress ones to the cholesterol-rich bacon butty. For a chip butty, you’ll need to pile on two slices of buttered, thick white sandwich bread with another classic, chips—that we know of as thick cut fries—and slather it all with bright red pumpkin and tomato ketchup. And voila, you’ll be staring down at a typical post binge drinking treat that can be found at almost any fish and chip shop across the country.
While this aberration of a sandwich might sound like a carb-on-carb keto diet nightmare, let us assure you that one bite of this classic, yet insanely simple British sandwich and you’ll surrender to its charms. Known as a ‘butty’ in the local vernacular, a sandwich is that quintessential British snack whose avatars are numerous, from the dainty cucumber and watercress ones to the cholesterol-rich bacon butty. For a chip butty, you’ll need to pile on two slices of buttered, thick white sandwich bread with another classic, chips—that we know of as thick cut fries—and slather it all with bright red pumpkin and tomato ketchup. And voila, you’ll be staring down at a typical post binge drinking treat that can be found at almost any fish and chip shop across the country.
The
Po’ Boy, USA
Shrimp, crawfish, lobster, oyster you name it and it can be found in a typically New Orleans, Louisiana style Po’ Boy sandwich. A corruption of the term ‘poor boy’ as it was the most preferred meal of the striking streetcar conductors in 1929, the sandwich evolved from the1800s fried oyster sandwiches on French loaves to include any breaded, deep-fried mollusc or crustacean loaded onto French bread and dressed with lettuce, tomato, pickles, and mayonnaise. Though essentially a seafood sandwich, places like Texas have been known to put own their spin on a Po’ Boy with versions that come stuffed with BBQ meat and chicken. But for the real deal, head down to joints like Avery’s On Tulane along New Orleans’ Tulane Ave. for a taste of the divine that defies explanation.
Shrimp, crawfish, lobster, oyster you name it and it can be found in a typically New Orleans, Louisiana style Po’ Boy sandwich. A corruption of the term ‘poor boy’ as it was the most preferred meal of the striking streetcar conductors in 1929, the sandwich evolved from the1800s fried oyster sandwiches on French loaves to include any breaded, deep-fried mollusc or crustacean loaded onto French bread and dressed with lettuce, tomato, pickles, and mayonnaise. Though essentially a seafood sandwich, places like Texas have been known to put own their spin on a Po’ Boy with versions that come stuffed with BBQ meat and chicken. But for the real deal, head down to joints like Avery’s On Tulane along New Orleans’ Tulane Ave. for a taste of the divine that defies explanation.
The
Smørrebrød, Denmark
Proving to the world of casual cuisine that a sandwich isn’t always about two pieces of bread holding forth fillings, this Danish classic open-faced sandwich may be a mouthful to pronounce, but the sheer mind-boggling varieties of Smørrebrød will leave you salivating. A typical Smørrebrød is usually constructed out of a slice of buttered rye bread called rugbrød, known for its dense crumb and deep brown hue. Called pålæg, which translates as “lay-on”, the toppings range from cold cuts, slivers of meat or fish, cheese or spreads. But hands down the most popular of all pålæg has got to be cured salmon called gravad laks that’s further topped off with a frond of dill, a splodge of sweet mayonnaise and sent off with a squirt of lemon juice.
Proving to the world of casual cuisine that a sandwich isn’t always about two pieces of bread holding forth fillings, this Danish classic open-faced sandwich may be a mouthful to pronounce, but the sheer mind-boggling varieties of Smørrebrød will leave you salivating. A typical Smørrebrød is usually constructed out of a slice of buttered rye bread called rugbrød, known for its dense crumb and deep brown hue. Called pålæg, which translates as “lay-on”, the toppings range from cold cuts, slivers of meat or fish, cheese or spreads. But hands down the most popular of all pålæg has got to be cured salmon called gravad laks that’s further topped off with a frond of dill, a splodge of sweet mayonnaise and sent off with a squirt of lemon juice.
Oddities
of the Sandwich World
* At $214 a pop, the title of the World’s Most Expensive Sandwich would have to go to “The Quintessential Grilled Cheese Sandwich,” that’s made by New York City’s legendary Serendipity 3 restaurant. Besides holding unfathomable bragging rights within its folds, the sandwich is made up of two slices of French bread that has Dom Perignon champagne and 23-karat gold baked into it. It is stuffed with caciocavallo podolico, a rare cheese imported from southern Italy and brushed with white truffle oil and gold leaf before it meets the grill.
* Ever heard of the ‘Candwich’? An American company produces these rather bizarre sandwiches in a can! Yes, each tin contains a bread roll and an assortment of flavours, including Peanut Butter and Jelly and Honey BBQ chicken. ‘nuff said.
* As an homage to the King of Rock and Roll, Elvis Presley, The Elvis sandwich is stuffed with an odd assortment of ingredients Elvis was particularly partial to all his life. So, we have peanut butter, banana and bacon ensconced within slices of commercial white bread and grilled with dollops of butter slathered onto the whole thing.
* In Japan, one of the most popular kinds of sandwiches is the Fruit Sando where sweet, soft white cake-like bread is stuffed with whipped cream and a whole ‘orchard’ of fruits from the most popular being strawberries to the downright strange persimmon and musk melon.
* At $214 a pop, the title of the World’s Most Expensive Sandwich would have to go to “The Quintessential Grilled Cheese Sandwich,” that’s made by New York City’s legendary Serendipity 3 restaurant. Besides holding unfathomable bragging rights within its folds, the sandwich is made up of two slices of French bread that has Dom Perignon champagne and 23-karat gold baked into it. It is stuffed with caciocavallo podolico, a rare cheese imported from southern Italy and brushed with white truffle oil and gold leaf before it meets the grill.
* Ever heard of the ‘Candwich’? An American company produces these rather bizarre sandwiches in a can! Yes, each tin contains a bread roll and an assortment of flavours, including Peanut Butter and Jelly and Honey BBQ chicken. ‘nuff said.
* As an homage to the King of Rock and Roll, Elvis Presley, The Elvis sandwich is stuffed with an odd assortment of ingredients Elvis was particularly partial to all his life. So, we have peanut butter, banana and bacon ensconced within slices of commercial white bread and grilled with dollops of butter slathered onto the whole thing.
* In Japan, one of the most popular kinds of sandwiches is the Fruit Sando where sweet, soft white cake-like bread is stuffed with whipped cream and a whole ‘orchard’ of fruits from the most popular being strawberries to the downright strange persimmon and musk melon.
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the October 2018 issue of Jetwings Domestic in-flight magazine of Jet Airways http://www.jetairways.com/EN/IN/jetexperience/magazines.aspx)
Wednesday, April 4, 2018
Book to Book!
In an increasingly digital world, it is these iconic brick and mortar bookshops around the world that still hold great promise and hope for die-hard bibliophiles and serve as sanctuaries where they can lose themselves in the sight, smell and feel of crisp pages.
By Raul Dias
Shakespeare and Company, Paris
Since 1951, 37 Rue de la Bûcherie on Paris’ Left Bank has seen the legendary Shakespeare and Company cater to millions of book lovers. Offering them not just juicy morsels in the form of their favourite reads—which they are free to peruse through—but also a place to bed down for the night for free! Yes, this bookshop has several beds interspersed between its bookshelves and truly lives up to its motto of “Be Not Inhospitable to Strangers Lest They Be Angels in Disguise,” that’s even emblazoned above the entry way to the reading section. And while you’re leafing thr uoough the works of the greats like Hugo, Balzac and of course Shakespeare, take a moment to go through the bookshop’s very own coffee table book titled Shakespeare and Company, Paris: A History of the Rag & Bone Shop of the Heart that came out in 2016.
37 Rue de la Bûcherie, 75005 Paris, France
+33 1 43 25 40 93
shakespeareandcompany.com
Libreria Acqua Alta, Venice
Literally meaning ‘High Water Bookstore’, Libreria Acqua Alta is housed on the Calle Longa Santa Maria Formosa, next to Venice’s Piazza San Giovanni e Paolo and has a decidedly shabby chic feel to it—what with its flea market-meets-wacky bookshop appearance. But despite this, it is often referred to as the world’s most beautiful bookshop and is a repository for books like old editions of the works of greats like Dante to modern fiction of the Dan Brown kind. Interestingly, paying the ultimate tribute to the ‘water wonderland’ that is Venice, this quirky bookshop houses its books in everything from bathtubs and washbasins to… get this, a life-size gondola!
Calle Longa S. Maria Formosa, 5176/b, 30122 Castello, Venice, Italy
+39 041 296 0841
The Last Bookstore, Los Angeles
This bookshop with a rather ominous name, may not have a rich legacy to rely on, what with it having been established only in 2005. But what it lacks in years, it more than makes up for in prowess. All of 22,000 sq. ft. in downtown LA, this store is actually a collection of small stores within the main space. So, while you will find 250,000 new and second-hand books on the first two floors, including the new Arts & Rare Book Annex, it also has a shared space that house vinyl records and graphic novels. In addition to this, it also has a mammoth mezzanine level that includes The Labyrinth Above the Last Bookstore, Gather Yarn Shop, and the Spring Arts Collective gallery shops. What’s interesting about The Labyrinth is that it features a maze-like space that stocks over 100,000 used books that are all sold at $1 each!
453 S Spring St, Los Angeles, CA 90013, USA
+1 213-488-0599
lastbookstorela.com
Livraria Lello, Porto
Though we’re loathe to pick favourites on a selection of such wonderful bookshops around the world, this stunning bookshop in the portside city of Porto in Portugal is worthy of every single hyperbole! Rua das Carmelitas, a short walk from the city center is where this store that resembles the inside of an old wooden ship has been housed since 1906 (it opened at another location in 1869). A winding mahogany double staircase leads you up to the higher floors where you will find a treasure trove of books—both in Portuguese and other languages—on shelves that are set between pillars that are decorated with bronze bas-reliefs of Portuguese literature figures. Don’t miss checking out the tiny tracks on the floor that are used by the staff for sliding ladders and carts laden with books.
R. das Carmelitas 144, 4050-161 Porto, Portugal
+351 22 200 2037
livrarialello.pt
Powell’s City of Books, Portland
Besides it’s moniker of ‘America’s Weirdest City’, Portland also has one other calling card that gives it some serious street cred as a bibliophile’s paradise—Powell’s City of Books. Located in downtown Portland’s Pearl District, this bookstore is the largest second-hand and new bookstore in the world, occupying an entire city block and housing approximately one million books. Established in 1971, it has a plethora of titles ranging from vintage cookery to indigenous native American history. The store is so large that every Sunday, there is a free public tour offered. On this 45-minute tour, one is given a brief history of the gargantuan bookstore, from the Pillar of Signatude to a sneak peek into their Rare Book room.
1005 W Burnside St, Portland, OR 97209, USA
+1 800-878-7323
powells.com
The Indian Quintet
While we’re still coming to grips the recent shutting down of one of the country’s most revered bookshops—Mumbai’s Strand Book Stall, here’s a list of five other iconic Indian bookshops.
1. Dasgupta & Co, Kolkata: A virtual institution that’s part of the College Street posse of bookshops, this historic bookstore was established in 1886 and is still the go-to place to procure the first editions of various rare publications.
2. The Book Shop, New Delhi: Simply called ‘Book Shop’ this spartan, yet treasure trove of amazing reads in New Delhi’s Jor Bagh truly lives up to its name. Opened in 1970, this store may be a tad cramped and crowded, but you’ll always find whatever you are looking for here!
3. Kitab Khana, Mumbai: Located in a historic building in the city’s culture and arts hub of Fort, this large, airy bookshop stocks books not just in English and Hindi, but also in other regional and international languages.
4. Literati Book Shop and Café, Goa: Housed in a picturesque cottage in Calangute, this bookstore-cum-café is the perfect place to leaf through both second-hand and new books while tucking into a scrumptious lemon tea cake.
5. Leaping Windows, Bengaluru: A slight departure from the other bookshops on this list, in that it is comic bookstore and library, this Indiranagar shop makes the cut thanks to its mindboggling collection of comic book and magazine titles available for purchase or rent.
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the April 2018 issue of Jetwings Domestic in-flight magazine of Jet Airways http://www.jetairways.com/EN/IN/jetexperience/magazines.aspx)
By Raul Dias
Shakespeare and Company, Paris
Since 1951, 37 Rue de la Bûcherie on Paris’ Left Bank has seen the legendary Shakespeare and Company cater to millions of book lovers. Offering them not just juicy morsels in the form of their favourite reads—which they are free to peruse through—but also a place to bed down for the night for free! Yes, this bookshop has several beds interspersed between its bookshelves and truly lives up to its motto of “Be Not Inhospitable to Strangers Lest They Be Angels in Disguise,” that’s even emblazoned above the entry way to the reading section. And while you’re leafing thr uoough the works of the greats like Hugo, Balzac and of course Shakespeare, take a moment to go through the bookshop’s very own coffee table book titled Shakespeare and Company, Paris: A History of the Rag & Bone Shop of the Heart that came out in 2016.
37 Rue de la Bûcherie, 75005 Paris, France
+33 1 43 25 40 93
shakespeareandcompany.com
Libreria Acqua Alta, Venice
Literally meaning ‘High Water Bookstore’, Libreria Acqua Alta is housed on the Calle Longa Santa Maria Formosa, next to Venice’s Piazza San Giovanni e Paolo and has a decidedly shabby chic feel to it—what with its flea market-meets-wacky bookshop appearance. But despite this, it is often referred to as the world’s most beautiful bookshop and is a repository for books like old editions of the works of greats like Dante to modern fiction of the Dan Brown kind. Interestingly, paying the ultimate tribute to the ‘water wonderland’ that is Venice, this quirky bookshop houses its books in everything from bathtubs and washbasins to… get this, a life-size gondola!
Calle Longa S. Maria Formosa, 5176/b, 30122 Castello, Venice, Italy
+39 041 296 0841
The Last Bookstore, Los Angeles
This bookshop with a rather ominous name, may not have a rich legacy to rely on, what with it having been established only in 2005. But what it lacks in years, it more than makes up for in prowess. All of 22,000 sq. ft. in downtown LA, this store is actually a collection of small stores within the main space. So, while you will find 250,000 new and second-hand books on the first two floors, including the new Arts & Rare Book Annex, it also has a shared space that house vinyl records and graphic novels. In addition to this, it also has a mammoth mezzanine level that includes The Labyrinth Above the Last Bookstore, Gather Yarn Shop, and the Spring Arts Collective gallery shops. What’s interesting about The Labyrinth is that it features a maze-like space that stocks over 100,000 used books that are all sold at $1 each!
453 S Spring St, Los Angeles, CA 90013, USA
+1 213-488-0599
lastbookstorela.com
Livraria Lello, Porto
Though we’re loathe to pick favourites on a selection of such wonderful bookshops around the world, this stunning bookshop in the portside city of Porto in Portugal is worthy of every single hyperbole! Rua das Carmelitas, a short walk from the city center is where this store that resembles the inside of an old wooden ship has been housed since 1906 (it opened at another location in 1869). A winding mahogany double staircase leads you up to the higher floors where you will find a treasure trove of books—both in Portuguese and other languages—on shelves that are set between pillars that are decorated with bronze bas-reliefs of Portuguese literature figures. Don’t miss checking out the tiny tracks on the floor that are used by the staff for sliding ladders and carts laden with books.
R. das Carmelitas 144, 4050-161 Porto, Portugal
+351 22 200 2037
livrarialello.pt
Powell’s City of Books, Portland
Besides it’s moniker of ‘America’s Weirdest City’, Portland also has one other calling card that gives it some serious street cred as a bibliophile’s paradise—Powell’s City of Books. Located in downtown Portland’s Pearl District, this bookstore is the largest second-hand and new bookstore in the world, occupying an entire city block and housing approximately one million books. Established in 1971, it has a plethora of titles ranging from vintage cookery to indigenous native American history. The store is so large that every Sunday, there is a free public tour offered. On this 45-minute tour, one is given a brief history of the gargantuan bookstore, from the Pillar of Signatude to a sneak peek into their Rare Book room.
1005 W Burnside St, Portland, OR 97209, USA
+1 800-878-7323
powells.com
The Indian Quintet
While we’re still coming to grips the recent shutting down of one of the country’s most revered bookshops—Mumbai’s Strand Book Stall, here’s a list of five other iconic Indian bookshops.
1. Dasgupta & Co, Kolkata: A virtual institution that’s part of the College Street posse of bookshops, this historic bookstore was established in 1886 and is still the go-to place to procure the first editions of various rare publications.
2. The Book Shop, New Delhi: Simply called ‘Book Shop’ this spartan, yet treasure trove of amazing reads in New Delhi’s Jor Bagh truly lives up to its name. Opened in 1970, this store may be a tad cramped and crowded, but you’ll always find whatever you are looking for here!
3. Kitab Khana, Mumbai: Located in a historic building in the city’s culture and arts hub of Fort, this large, airy bookshop stocks books not just in English and Hindi, but also in other regional and international languages.
4. Literati Book Shop and Café, Goa: Housed in a picturesque cottage in Calangute, this bookstore-cum-café is the perfect place to leaf through both second-hand and new books while tucking into a scrumptious lemon tea cake.
5. Leaping Windows, Bengaluru: A slight departure from the other bookshops on this list, in that it is comic bookstore and library, this Indiranagar shop makes the cut thanks to its mindboggling collection of comic book and magazine titles available for purchase or rent.
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the April 2018 issue of Jetwings Domestic in-flight magazine of Jet Airways http://www.jetairways.com/EN/IN/jetexperience/magazines.aspx)
Wednesday, January 3, 2018
Edible Icons!
The
Others…
·
Not content with laying claim to the
Waldorf Salad alone, The Waldorf Astoria hotel in New York is also the place
where Eggs Benedict was first invented in 1894 at the behest of a Wall Street
stockbroker named Lemuel Benedict, who instructed the chef to construct his
poached eggs dish just the way he wanted them—Hollandaise sauce et al!
·
An unknown hotel chef in Wellington, New
Zealand, is said to have created the cloud-like meringue and fruit dessert we
know today as the Pavlova for the famous Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova, who
visited there in 1926 on her world tour.
·
We have the American hotelier Bertha
Palmer of the Palmer House in Chicago to thank for the diet/stress/blues-busting
gooey Brownie,s who created it along with her chef at the hotel for the World’s
Columbian Exposition held in Chicago in 1893.
·
It was in 1892 when Dame Nellie Melba, the
famed Australian opera singer paid a visit to The Savoy in London, that the
equally legendary French pâtissier Auguste Escoffier created the Peach Melba in
the prima donna’s honour.
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the January 2018 issue of Jetwings Domestic in-flight magazine of Jet Airways https://www.jetairways.com/EN/DE/JetExperience/magazines.aspx)
Gardens of the Bard
For many, the
concept of a literary garden evokes William Shakespeare and a sweet-perfumed floral
arrangement of rosemary, violets, lilies and roses that find fond mention in
the Bard’s works. No great surprise then, Shakespeare Gardens can be found all
over the world with some landscaped in the style popular during his lifetime,
while some, a riot of flowers, herbs and other botanicals. We take you to a
few…
By Raul Dias
“I
know a bank where the wild thyme blows
Where oxlips and the nodding violet grows
Quite over-canopied with luscious woodbine,
With sweet musk-roses and with eglantine.”
—A Midsummer Night’s Dream
Where oxlips and the nodding violet grows
Quite over-canopied with luscious woodbine,
With sweet musk-roses and with eglantine.”
—A Midsummer Night’s Dream
Shakespeare’s
Flowers at the Golden Gate Park, San Francisco
The Golden Gate Park is a mammoth, urban park consisting of 1,017 acres of public grounds with everything from a well-appointed Japanese Tea Garden to hosting the San Francisco Botanical Garden at Strybing Arboretum. But neatly tucked away at the intersection of the garden’s Martin Luther King Jr. Drive and Middle Drive East is a fecund spot with a sundial at its dead centre. Simply called Shakespeare’s Flowers, this Shakespeare Garden was planted in 1928 under the patronage of Alice Eastwood, the then director of botany for the Academy of Sciences. With over 200 flowers and plants lining this modest-sized garden, visitors can find visual, floral references to the Bard’s staggering body of work. Here, bronze plagues are engraved with notable quotations from his historic comedies, tragedies, and sonnets that accompany the floral arrangements.
Entry: Free
The Golden Gate Park is a mammoth, urban park consisting of 1,017 acres of public grounds with everything from a well-appointed Japanese Tea Garden to hosting the San Francisco Botanical Garden at Strybing Arboretum. But neatly tucked away at the intersection of the garden’s Martin Luther King Jr. Drive and Middle Drive East is a fecund spot with a sundial at its dead centre. Simply called Shakespeare’s Flowers, this Shakespeare Garden was planted in 1928 under the patronage of Alice Eastwood, the then director of botany for the Academy of Sciences. With over 200 flowers and plants lining this modest-sized garden, visitors can find visual, floral references to the Bard’s staggering body of work. Here, bronze plagues are engraved with notable quotations from his historic comedies, tragedies, and sonnets that accompany the floral arrangements.
Entry: Free
The
Shakespeare Park
at Herzogspark, Regensburg
Germany’s south-eastern city of Regensburg in Bavaria is famous for its location, as it is situated at the confluence of the Danube, Naab and Regen rivers. But its greatest calling card to a die-hard Shakespeare fan is the Herzogpark—a tiny, municipal park with an even smaller botanical garden dedicated to William Shakespeare. The Shakespeare Park is designed as an alpine garden meets Renaissance garden, replete with bell flowers, carnations, primroses, and rhododendrons, besides of course, a rose garden. Set in the Renaissance style of geometric parterres edged by boxwood hedges, the Shakespeare Park is a peaceful nook where you can almost always find someone sitting on one its low, stone benches, engrossed in a book.
Entry: Free
Germany’s south-eastern city of Regensburg in Bavaria is famous for its location, as it is situated at the confluence of the Danube, Naab and Regen rivers. But its greatest calling card to a die-hard Shakespeare fan is the Herzogpark—a tiny, municipal park with an even smaller botanical garden dedicated to William Shakespeare. The Shakespeare Park is designed as an alpine garden meets Renaissance garden, replete with bell flowers, carnations, primroses, and rhododendrons, besides of course, a rose garden. Set in the Renaissance style of geometric parterres edged by boxwood hedges, the Shakespeare Park is a peaceful nook where you can almost always find someone sitting on one its low, stone benches, engrossed in a book.
Entry: Free
Shakespeare
Garden at Johannesburg Botanical Garden, Johannesburg
Gritty and chaotic Jo’berg—as the locals call their city of Johannesburg—is probably the last place on earth you’d expect to find a Shakespeare Garden. But this 81-hectare large green lung, situated in the otherwise bleak suburb of Emmarentia harbours a beautiful little secret at its very center. Established as a rose garden in 1964, the Shakespeare Garden has over 10,000 roses in bloom almost every day, besides a fine collection of herbs like rosemary and thyme as mentioned in the Bard’s plays. Being in Africa, the garden that overlooks the Emmarentia Dam, has an abundance of local bird life, such as ibises and weavers, and one can even feed the ducks and geese at Bird Island. And during concert season expect to be enthralled by a Shakespearean performance or two.
Entry: Free
Gritty and chaotic Jo’berg—as the locals call their city of Johannesburg—is probably the last place on earth you’d expect to find a Shakespeare Garden. But this 81-hectare large green lung, situated in the otherwise bleak suburb of Emmarentia harbours a beautiful little secret at its very center. Established as a rose garden in 1964, the Shakespeare Garden has over 10,000 roses in bloom almost every day, besides a fine collection of herbs like rosemary and thyme as mentioned in the Bard’s plays. Being in Africa, the garden that overlooks the Emmarentia Dam, has an abundance of local bird life, such as ibises and weavers, and one can even feed the ducks and geese at Bird Island. And during concert season expect to be enthralled by a Shakespearean performance or two.
Entry: Free
The
Vienna Shakespeare Garden at the Kagran School Gardens, Vienna
The newest Shakespeare Garden on our list that opened a little over a decade ago in 2005, The Vienna Shakespeare Garden is one of the best homages to the Bard. One enters this arboreal paradise through the ‘Laburnum Walk’, a floral tunnel created solely out of laburnum plants and is greeted by five distinct beds of flowers. A shady bed, a bed with afternoon sun, a magnificent display bed, a herbal bed and a classic English-style flower bed where each plant features a corresponding quote from a selection of Shakespearean literature. In fact, the garden even has a sign indicating the direction and distance of Shakespeare’s birthplace, Stratford-upon-Avon!
Entry: Free
The newest Shakespeare Garden on our list that opened a little over a decade ago in 2005, The Vienna Shakespeare Garden is one of the best homages to the Bard. One enters this arboreal paradise through the ‘Laburnum Walk’, a floral tunnel created solely out of laburnum plants and is greeted by five distinct beds of flowers. A shady bed, a bed with afternoon sun, a magnificent display bed, a herbal bed and a classic English-style flower bed where each plant features a corresponding quote from a selection of Shakespearean literature. In fact, the garden even has a sign indicating the direction and distance of Shakespeare’s birthplace, Stratford-upon-Avon!
Entry: Free
The
Shakespeare Garden at New Place, Stratford-upon-Avon
The ‘holy grail’ of all things William Shakespeare and a must-visit for the Bard’s legion of worshippers, is Stratford-upon-Avon in England’s West Midlands. And his last home, New Place is Ground Zero. This stately home that was reopened in April 2016 after a lengthy refurbishment, to coincide with the quatercentenary of Shakespeare’s death is also famous for being the place that hosts the most beautiful of all Shakespeare Gardens. Here, the mansion’s three zones are connected to each other by the garden that features rows of plants such as mulberry and rose with commemorative flags representing all of Shakespeare’s plays fluttering above the plants. The Bard’s sonnets and longer plays are represented by a ribbon of white bronze darts set into the stonework of the wall that hems the garden in.
Entry: £17.50 (adult) and £11.50 (child)
The ‘holy grail’ of all things William Shakespeare and a must-visit for the Bard’s legion of worshippers, is Stratford-upon-Avon in England’s West Midlands. And his last home, New Place is Ground Zero. This stately home that was reopened in April 2016 after a lengthy refurbishment, to coincide with the quatercentenary of Shakespeare’s death is also famous for being the place that hosts the most beautiful of all Shakespeare Gardens. Here, the mansion’s three zones are connected to each other by the garden that features rows of plants such as mulberry and rose with commemorative flags representing all of Shakespeare’s plays fluttering above the plants. The Bard’s sonnets and longer plays are represented by a ribbon of white bronze darts set into the stonework of the wall that hems the garden in.
Entry: £17.50 (adult) and £11.50 (child)
America’s Shakespeare Gardens
Cottoning onto the early 20th century craze for the Shakespeare Garden, when everything English was considered ultra-trendy, a host of popular public parks and university gardens across the United States fashioned for themselves their own spots to pay homage to the Bard:
·
The Shakespeare Garden at Pittsburgh’s
Mellon Park is devoted to herbs and medicinal plants.
·
Perfumed with the fragrance of pansies and
musk-roses, the Shakespeare Garden at Manhattan’s Central Park is a
breath-taking place to visit. It is also the place where the mulberry tree is said
to have come from Shakespeare’s property at his final home, New Place in Stratford-upon-Avon.
·
Believed to be America’s first Shakespeare
Garden is the one in Evanston, Illinois.
·
The Shakespeare Garden at Gordon Park in
Cleveland was built in 1916 in honour of the tercentenary of Shakespeare’s
death.
·
Also created in 1916 is the Shakespeare
Garden at Vassar University in Poughkeepsie, New York, by a group of English
literature and botany students.
A Quartet of Shakespeare’s ‘flowery’ Verses
·
Roses:
“I have seen roses damask’d, red and white,
But no such roses see I in her cheeks…”
—Sonnet 130
“I have seen roses damask’d, red and white,
But no such roses see I in her cheeks…”
—Sonnet 130
·
Daisies
and Violets:
“When daisies pied and violets blue
And lady-smocks all silver-white
And cuckoo-buds of yellow hue
Do paint the meadows with delight.”
—Love’s Labours Lost (5.2.900-4)
“When daisies pied and violets blue
And lady-smocks all silver-white
And cuckoo-buds of yellow hue
Do paint the meadows with delight.”
—Love’s Labours Lost (5.2.900-4)
·
Lilies:
“Like the lily,
That once was mistress of the field and flourish’d,
I’ll hang my head and perish.”
—Henry VIII (3.1.168-70)
“Like the lily,
That once was mistress of the field and flourish’d,
I’ll hang my head and perish.”
—Henry VIII (3.1.168-70)
·
Poppy
and Mandrake:
“Not poppy, nor mandragora,
Nor all the drowsy syrups of the world,
Shall ever medicine thee to that sweet sleep
Which thou owedst yesterday.”
—Othello (3.3.368-71)
“Not poppy, nor mandragora,
Nor all the drowsy syrups of the world,
Shall ever medicine thee to that sweet sleep
Which thou owedst yesterday.”
—Othello (3.3.368-71)
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the January 2018 issue of Jetwings Domestic in-flight magazine of Jet Airways https://www.jetairways.com/EN/DE/JetExperience/magazines.aspx)
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