Great Escapes weekly Saturday travel page for The Free Press Journal newspaper curated, edited and produced by Raul Dias
Showing posts with label FREE PRESS JOURNAL. Show all posts
Showing posts with label FREE PRESS JOURNAL. Show all posts
Saturday, August 31, 2019
Great Escapes--31st August 2019
Great Escapes weekly Saturday travel page for The Free Press Journal newspaper curated, edited and produced by Raul Dias
Saturday, August 24, 2019
Great Escapes--24th August 2019
Great Escapes weekly Saturday travel page for The Free Press Journal newspaper curated, edited and produced by Raul Dias
Saturday, August 17, 2019
Urban Oasis
Set in the heart of downtown Bangkok, the Mövenpick BDMS Wellness Resort is a fecund, tropical paradise with a lot on offer. Raul Dias checks in for some much-needed R&R!
By Raul Dias
A great fan of both my home city of Mumbai and that of my ‘adopted’ second home aka. Bangkok, I always find myself drawing several parallels between the two. Yes, both are equally chaotic, traffic-saturated and supremely exhausting! But both also have an indomitable spirit that cannot be defined or quantified. A spirit that keeps drawing me back to Bangkok’s urban charms time and again…
It is also a well-known fact that I will never refuse an opportunity to head to the Thai capital, even if it means a short, three-day trip. So, when I was very kindly invited to join in on GoAir’s inaugural daily, direct flight from Mumbai to Bangkok (check out our Travel Bytes section below for more details) on a trip they had jointly curated with AccorHotels to experience both the new flight as well as one Accor’s newest properties, the Mövenpick BDMS Wellness Resort Bangkok, I jumped at the opportunity.
Plush Living
A unique urban health retreat surrounded by 1.2 acres of lush greenery, the Mövenpick BDMS Wellness Resort Bangkok is one of those ultra-rare properties in that it is a proper, full-fledged resort set in the buzzing center of Bangkok. A classically elegant retreat, the property stands below tree height, shaded by the canopy of the adjacent Nai Lert Park, famed as Bangkok’s only remaining private city center park. Within the resort a refined, minimalistic décor meets every modern convenience to take your stress away, reflecting Mövenpick’s renowned commitment to genuine comforts delivered exceptionally well.
Another aspect of its setting that literally took my breath away was the range of accommodation options the resort has on offer. While the Deluxe Rooms extend 42 sqm of personalised comfort, the Executive Suite where I was staying is a spacious 74 sqm with separate living rooms and bedrooms. However, irrespective of room category, each offers either city views across the capital, or serene garden views from their broad balconies. And yes, in-keeping with the Mövenpick’s wonderful world-wide policy of a free mini bar for the first day of one’s stay, here too one can enjoy a range of non-alcoholic beverages on the house. I sure did!
And while the signature Wellness Suites are unique to the resort, encompassing 74 sqm of therapeutic comfort, the Presidential Suite and Royal Suite are the pinnacles of Mövenpick’s renowned standards of comfort and style, stretching across a mammoth 164 sqm with private entrances.
Where Serenity meets Bliss…
Speaking of wellness, the resort shares its property with the BDMS Wellness Clinic which is the latest of the Bangkok Dusit Medical Services group’s centres of medical excellence. It applies world leading therapies and technologies to treat an illness’ root cause in seven specialised clinics with individually trained nurses and administrators.
Taking full advantage of the wonderful Fitness Centre, I made sure to factor in at least an hour every day to working out on the David Health Solution System machines, designed to aid spine and orthopaedic recovery and thus perfect for my chronic lower back pain. The outdoor pool surrounded by thick vegetation that drown out all ambient noises from outside makes it almost impossible to believe that one is truly in the heart of chaotic Bangkok.
Sips and Bites
At the resort, international dining tastes are fully catered at a range of venues and all in-keeping with the resort’s wellness leitmotif. So, one can dine at the Tamarind all-day dining restaurant offering healthy and organic produce, generous breakfast buffets and themed buffet dinners. The Rim Klong Café serves famed Mövenpick coffees and ice creams, international breads and pastries, including gluten-free options, healthy mocktails, slow-juice selections, tea-infusions and nutritious boosters. It is a great place to simply unwind.
The Sala pool bar is perfect for refreshments of local and imported beers, fresh smoothies and original cocktails under cooling tree shade. For live music, soothing dayime tunes or an evening aperitif, head to the Cinnamon Lobby Bar. Serving juices and coffees and with a complimentary chocolate hour for guests, it’s a daytime family (and my personal!) favourite.
Things to do around the resort
Mövenpick BDMS Wellness Resort Bangkok’s city center location places guests at the heart of shopping and entertainment with a host of things to see and do:
* The Ratchaprasong retail district is packed with designer boutiques and shopping centres.
* The nearby Erawan Shrine is a serene place of pilgrimage for many Asian travellers just five minutes away.
* The Bangkok Art and Culture Centre, opposite the MBK Mall, offers quiet galleries of ancient and contemporary art as a refreshing respite from the bustling markets.
* The city’s famed nightlife welcomes visitors just ten minutes from the hotel in Sukhumvit Soi 11 and Soi 8.
Mövenpick BDMS Wellness Resort Bangkok
2 Wireless Road, Lumpini, Pathumwan,
Bangkok 10330, Thailand.
Telephone: +66 (2) 666 3333 | Fax: +66 (2) 666 3334
E-mail: resort.bdms.sales@movenpick.com
www. movenpick.com
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 17th August 2019 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Saturday Great Escapes section on page 21 https://www.freepressjournal.in/travel/this-bangkok-resort-is-a-tropical-paradise)
By Raul Dias
A great fan of both my home city of Mumbai and that of my ‘adopted’ second home aka. Bangkok, I always find myself drawing several parallels between the two. Yes, both are equally chaotic, traffic-saturated and supremely exhausting! But both also have an indomitable spirit that cannot be defined or quantified. A spirit that keeps drawing me back to Bangkok’s urban charms time and again…
It is also a well-known fact that I will never refuse an opportunity to head to the Thai capital, even if it means a short, three-day trip. So, when I was very kindly invited to join in on GoAir’s inaugural daily, direct flight from Mumbai to Bangkok (check out our Travel Bytes section below for more details) on a trip they had jointly curated with AccorHotels to experience both the new flight as well as one Accor’s newest properties, the Mövenpick BDMS Wellness Resort Bangkok, I jumped at the opportunity.
Plush Living
A unique urban health retreat surrounded by 1.2 acres of lush greenery, the Mövenpick BDMS Wellness Resort Bangkok is one of those ultra-rare properties in that it is a proper, full-fledged resort set in the buzzing center of Bangkok. A classically elegant retreat, the property stands below tree height, shaded by the canopy of the adjacent Nai Lert Park, famed as Bangkok’s only remaining private city center park. Within the resort a refined, minimalistic décor meets every modern convenience to take your stress away, reflecting Mövenpick’s renowned commitment to genuine comforts delivered exceptionally well.
Another aspect of its setting that literally took my breath away was the range of accommodation options the resort has on offer. While the Deluxe Rooms extend 42 sqm of personalised comfort, the Executive Suite where I was staying is a spacious 74 sqm with separate living rooms and bedrooms. However, irrespective of room category, each offers either city views across the capital, or serene garden views from their broad balconies. And yes, in-keeping with the Mövenpick’s wonderful world-wide policy of a free mini bar for the first day of one’s stay, here too one can enjoy a range of non-alcoholic beverages on the house. I sure did!
And while the signature Wellness Suites are unique to the resort, encompassing 74 sqm of therapeutic comfort, the Presidential Suite and Royal Suite are the pinnacles of Mövenpick’s renowned standards of comfort and style, stretching across a mammoth 164 sqm with private entrances.
Where Serenity meets Bliss…
Speaking of wellness, the resort shares its property with the BDMS Wellness Clinic which is the latest of the Bangkok Dusit Medical Services group’s centres of medical excellence. It applies world leading therapies and technologies to treat an illness’ root cause in seven specialised clinics with individually trained nurses and administrators.
Taking full advantage of the wonderful Fitness Centre, I made sure to factor in at least an hour every day to working out on the David Health Solution System machines, designed to aid spine and orthopaedic recovery and thus perfect for my chronic lower back pain. The outdoor pool surrounded by thick vegetation that drown out all ambient noises from outside makes it almost impossible to believe that one is truly in the heart of chaotic Bangkok.
Sips and Bites
At the resort, international dining tastes are fully catered at a range of venues and all in-keeping with the resort’s wellness leitmotif. So, one can dine at the Tamarind all-day dining restaurant offering healthy and organic produce, generous breakfast buffets and themed buffet dinners. The Rim Klong Café serves famed Mövenpick coffees and ice creams, international breads and pastries, including gluten-free options, healthy mocktails, slow-juice selections, tea-infusions and nutritious boosters. It is a great place to simply unwind.
The Sala pool bar is perfect for refreshments of local and imported beers, fresh smoothies and original cocktails under cooling tree shade. For live music, soothing dayime tunes or an evening aperitif, head to the Cinnamon Lobby Bar. Serving juices and coffees and with a complimentary chocolate hour for guests, it’s a daytime family (and my personal!) favourite.
Things to do around the resort
Mövenpick BDMS Wellness Resort Bangkok’s city center location places guests at the heart of shopping and entertainment with a host of things to see and do:
* The Ratchaprasong retail district is packed with designer boutiques and shopping centres.
* The nearby Erawan Shrine is a serene place of pilgrimage for many Asian travellers just five minutes away.
* The Bangkok Art and Culture Centre, opposite the MBK Mall, offers quiet galleries of ancient and contemporary art as a refreshing respite from the bustling markets.
* The city’s famed nightlife welcomes visitors just ten minutes from the hotel in Sukhumvit Soi 11 and Soi 8.
Mövenpick BDMS Wellness Resort Bangkok
2 Wireless Road, Lumpini, Pathumwan,
Bangkok 10330, Thailand.
Telephone: +66 (2) 666 3333 | Fax: +66 (2) 666 3334
E-mail: resort.bdms.sales@movenpick.com
www. movenpick.com
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 17th August 2019 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Saturday Great Escapes section on page 21 https://www.freepressjournal.in/travel/this-bangkok-resort-is-a-tropical-paradise)
Great Escapes--17th August 2019
Great Escapes weekly Saturday travel page for The Free Press Journal newspaper curated, edited and produced by Raul Dias
Sunday, August 11, 2019
Taking Kedgeree Home
Post Independence, the British returned home with a whole lot of desi magic to jazz up their rather
‘uninspiring’ cuisine. Raul Dias introduces you to a few such dishes that
have additions of that unmistakable Indian tadka
to them!
I have very little doubt that Indian cuisine is one of the world’s greatest cuisines with its perfect blend of flavours and cooking techniques that range from the wonders of dum to the smoky brilliance of the tandoor and a whole lot more in between. The sheer variety of genres on offer across the country’s length and breadth sort of invalidates the term ‘Indian cuisine’ with each region giving us treats more exotic than the other.
No wonder then, that the Brits—on leaving India after Independence came into being in 1947—have co-opted several India-inspired dishes into the folds of their rather boring cuisine to come up with dishes that are delicious hybrids that have now gone on to define modern British cuisine. Here are four such examples:
By Raul Dias
I have very little doubt that Indian cuisine is one of the world’s greatest cuisines with its perfect blend of flavours and cooking techniques that range from the wonders of dum to the smoky brilliance of the tandoor and a whole lot more in between. The sheer variety of genres on offer across the country’s length and breadth sort of invalidates the term ‘Indian cuisine’ with each region giving us treats more exotic than the other.
No wonder then, that the Brits—on leaving India after Independence came into being in 1947—have co-opted several India-inspired dishes into the folds of their rather boring cuisine to come up with dishes that are delicious hybrids that have now gone on to define modern British cuisine. Here are four such examples:
Piccalilli
This low-on-spice British interpretation of Indian achar is a sort of relish made up of chopped pickled vegetables and spices, particularly cauliflower, onion, and gherkin—and seasonings of mustard and turmeric. And like in the various Indian achars, in Britain too regional recipes of piccalilli vary considerably. The Oxford English Dictionary traces the word to the middle of the 18th century when, in 1758, a certain Hannah Glasse described how “to make Paco-Lilla, or India Pickle”. An apparently earlier reference is in Anne Blencowe’s Receipt Book, written in 1694, which has “To Pickle Lila, an Indian Pickle” credited to Lord Kilmory. Today, piccalilli is best had as part of a traditional Brit working meal called a ploughman’s lunch.
This low-on-spice British interpretation of Indian achar is a sort of relish made up of chopped pickled vegetables and spices, particularly cauliflower, onion, and gherkin—and seasonings of mustard and turmeric. And like in the various Indian achars, in Britain too regional recipes of piccalilli vary considerably. The Oxford English Dictionary traces the word to the middle of the 18th century when, in 1758, a certain Hannah Glasse described how “to make Paco-Lilla, or India Pickle”. An apparently earlier reference is in Anne Blencowe’s Receipt Book, written in 1694, which has “To Pickle Lila, an Indian Pickle” credited to Lord Kilmory. Today, piccalilli is best had as part of a traditional Brit working meal called a ploughman’s lunch.
Mulligatawny
We can easily see the underpinnings of this spice-redolent soup in the South Indian rasam. The tongue-twister of a name originates from the Tamil words for pepper (miḷagu), and water (tanni). Due to its popularity in England during British India, it was one of the few items of India that found common mention in the literature of the period. Recipes for mulligatawny varied greatly over the years. Later versions included British modifications that included meat, though the local Tamil recipe on which it was based did not.
We can easily see the underpinnings of this spice-redolent soup in the South Indian rasam. The tongue-twister of a name originates from the Tamil words for pepper (miḷagu), and water (tanni). Due to its popularity in England during British India, it was one of the few items of India that found common mention in the literature of the period. Recipes for mulligatawny varied greatly over the years. Later versions included British modifications that included meat, though the local Tamil recipe on which it was based did not.
Jalfrezi
Though it shares its name with an Indian dish, the British version of jalfrezi is a concoction all of its own. It consists of a main ingredient such as meat, fish, paneer or vegetables, stir-fried and served in a thick spicy sauce that includes green capsicum along with onions and tomatoes. The recipe for it first appeared in cookbooks of the British India as a way of using up leftovers by frying them with chilli and onion. This English language usage derived from the colloquial Bengali word jhal porhezi: in Bengali, jhal (not to be confused with jhol or water!) means spicy, while porhezi comes from the Persian word, parhezi means suitable for a diet. Today, there is probably not a single curry house in all of Britain that doesn’t sere an iteration of jalfrezi.
Though it shares its name with an Indian dish, the British version of jalfrezi is a concoction all of its own. It consists of a main ingredient such as meat, fish, paneer or vegetables, stir-fried and served in a thick spicy sauce that includes green capsicum along with onions and tomatoes. The recipe for it first appeared in cookbooks of the British India as a way of using up leftovers by frying them with chilli and onion. This English language usage derived from the colloquial Bengali word jhal porhezi: in Bengali, jhal (not to be confused with jhol or water!) means spicy, while porhezi comes from the Persian word, parhezi means suitable for a diet. Today, there is probably not a single curry house in all of Britain that doesn’t sere an iteration of jalfrezi.
Kedgeree
Once again, like the others on this list, Kedgeree too has been adapted from a local Indian dish. This time from the ultra-popular comfort food and convalescence favourite preparation of khichdi! This dish moved to Victorian Britain and changed dramatically. The Brit take on the dish is one that is made up of cooked, flaked fish (traditionally smoked haddock), boiled rice, parsley, hard-boiled eggs, curry powder, butter or cream, and occasionally sultanas. The dish can be eaten hot or cold. Other fish can be used instead of haddock such as tuna or salmon, though that is not traditional. It is believed to have been popularised by returning British colonials who had enjoyed it in India and introduced it to the UK as a breakfast dish in Victorian times, part of the then fashionable Anglo-Indian cuisine.
Once again, like the others on this list, Kedgeree too has been adapted from a local Indian dish. This time from the ultra-popular comfort food and convalescence favourite preparation of khichdi! This dish moved to Victorian Britain and changed dramatically. The Brit take on the dish is one that is made up of cooked, flaked fish (traditionally smoked haddock), boiled rice, parsley, hard-boiled eggs, curry powder, butter or cream, and occasionally sultanas. The dish can be eaten hot or cold. Other fish can be used instead of haddock such as tuna or salmon, though that is not traditional. It is believed to have been popularised by returning British colonials who had enjoyed it in India and introduced it to the UK as a breakfast dish in Victorian times, part of the then fashionable Anglo-Indian cuisine.
(An edited version of this column first appeared in the 11th August 2019 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Weekend section on page 3 https://www.freepressjournal.in/food/food-review-taking-home-indian-tadka)
Saturday, August 3, 2019
That Royal Touch
Inspired by India’s rich, royal heritage, the
opulent Noor Mahal in Karnal is perfect for that dream destination wedding…and
more! Raul Dias
recently discovered this truly incredible palace hotel over one magical
weekend.
By Raul Dias
Although I had heard of Karnal before and
had even driven through it a few years ago en route from Delhi to Mori in
Uttarakhand, I knew embarrassingly little about the city that seemed to be the
pride of the state of Haryana. Gaurav, my rather chatty driver who ferried me
from the Delhi Airport towards Karnal two-and-a-half hours away kept regaling
me with tales of the Mahabharata as we drove past historical towns like
Panipant and Sonipat—the former famous for its epic Battle of Panipat. It was
as though he was preparing me for the grandeur and awe-inspiring beauty my
final destination—the palatial Noor Mahal Hotel—had in store for me…
Grand
Beginnings
Nestled in the mystical land of the Mahabharata, the truly breath-taking Noor Mahal is one of those ‘Incredible Indian Palace Hotels’ that has been built on a monumental scale. And that was evident to me as we drove up to its mighty gates that made me feel like I was entering some sort of an actual palace. But then again, it is a five-star luxury palace hotel that is inspired by India’s rich heritage and one that captures all the grandeur and luxury enjoyed by Indian Maharajas over the centuries.
A reflection of Rajputana and Mughal architecture, the grand structure that stands out as a true blend of history, culture and aesthetics, has been designed by one of India’s notable architects, Himmat Singh. Set amid the culturally rich land of Karnal, this palace hotel enjoys equal proximity to both Delhi and Chandigarh. With lush green fields and farms surrounding it, the hotel is situated on the old course of the Yamuna river traversing its way to Delhi.
Upon entering the hotel, an impressive lobby featuring beautiful architecture, intricately carved furniture, antique paintings and artefacts welcomes guests like myself with an outstanding first impression. The hotel has two courtyards laid out along the east and west axis. The first courtyard is called the Deewan-e-Aam on the lobby level, providing an access from all four sides. The second is the Deewan-e-Khas on the first floor which is surrounded by rooms and balconies with low jaalis and chajjas.
Nestled in the mystical land of the Mahabharata, the truly breath-taking Noor Mahal is one of those ‘Incredible Indian Palace Hotels’ that has been built on a monumental scale. And that was evident to me as we drove up to its mighty gates that made me feel like I was entering some sort of an actual palace. But then again, it is a five-star luxury palace hotel that is inspired by India’s rich heritage and one that captures all the grandeur and luxury enjoyed by Indian Maharajas over the centuries.
A reflection of Rajputana and Mughal architecture, the grand structure that stands out as a true blend of history, culture and aesthetics, has been designed by one of India’s notable architects, Himmat Singh. Set amid the culturally rich land of Karnal, this palace hotel enjoys equal proximity to both Delhi and Chandigarh. With lush green fields and farms surrounding it, the hotel is situated on the old course of the Yamuna river traversing its way to Delhi.
Upon entering the hotel, an impressive lobby featuring beautiful architecture, intricately carved furniture, antique paintings and artefacts welcomes guests like myself with an outstanding first impression. The hotel has two courtyards laid out along the east and west axis. The first courtyard is called the Deewan-e-Aam on the lobby level, providing an access from all four sides. The second is the Deewan-e-Khas on the first floor which is surrounded by rooms and balconies with low jaalis and chajjas.
Sumptuous
Living!
Speaking of rooms, Noor Mahal offers a selection of 122 heritage-imbued rooms and suites, uniquely designed to provide luxurious royal splendour. Apart from the Presidential suites and heritage suites, Noor Mahal boasts a special royal sleeping chamber called the ‘Khwabgah’ which includes two bedrooms, a living room, a dining room, a private bar, an office chamber and a spacious terrace that gives one an overview of Karnal city.
From the architecture, design and service to the intangible atmosphere and modern luxury they provide, the rooms and suites are perfect for a royal staycation. They are elegantly decorated with a mix of bespoke furnishings, beautiful antiques and carefully chosen object d’art that underscore an exceptional attention to detail. Special traditional hand-paintings on the wall enhance the grandeur. The bold and impressive ‘4 Hiran Minars’ or 4 golden towers stand 100 feet high with octagonal chhatris at the four corners on top.
Speaking of rooms, Noor Mahal offers a selection of 122 heritage-imbued rooms and suites, uniquely designed to provide luxurious royal splendour. Apart from the Presidential suites and heritage suites, Noor Mahal boasts a special royal sleeping chamber called the ‘Khwabgah’ which includes two bedrooms, a living room, a dining room, a private bar, an office chamber and a spacious terrace that gives one an overview of Karnal city.
From the architecture, design and service to the intangible atmosphere and modern luxury they provide, the rooms and suites are perfect for a royal staycation. They are elegantly decorated with a mix of bespoke furnishings, beautiful antiques and carefully chosen object d’art that underscore an exceptional attention to detail. Special traditional hand-paintings on the wall enhance the grandeur. The bold and impressive ‘4 Hiran Minars’ or 4 golden towers stand 100 feet high with octagonal chhatris at the four corners on top.
Grand
Feasting
Besides a totally separate banqueting kitchen, Noor Mahal takes great pride in its F&B offerings. For a unique dining experience, Frontier Mail has been designed recreating the legendry Frontier Mail train that operated between Mumbai and Peshawar during pre-independence days. Even its menu comprises of dishes from the regions through which the train made its initial journey.
And while the all-day dining Brown Sugar offers both buffet meals as well as an a la carte menu showcasing global favourites, the leather and dark wood-finished Polo Bar is the perfect place to unwind as it sets the perfect ambience for evenings with an eclectic collection of fine spirits, cognacs and cigars.
Besides a totally separate banqueting kitchen, Noor Mahal takes great pride in its F&B offerings. For a unique dining experience, Frontier Mail has been designed recreating the legendry Frontier Mail train that operated between Mumbai and Peshawar during pre-independence days. Even its menu comprises of dishes from the regions through which the train made its initial journey.
And while the all-day dining Brown Sugar offers both buffet meals as well as an a la carte menu showcasing global favourites, the leather and dark wood-finished Polo Bar is the perfect place to unwind as it sets the perfect ambience for evenings with an eclectic collection of fine spirits, cognacs and cigars.
Of
Dream Weddings
Spread over 10 acres and 35,0000 square feet of carpet area, Noor Mahal is an ideal venue for that dream destination wedding, offering everything from 13 beautifully appointed banquet halls to an in-house salon, spa, gym and a team of wedding planners who are at your beck and call. No wonder then, Noor Mahal has become a one stop shop for all wedding requirements as the hotel follows an innovative approach in keeping up with the times and offering guests trendy and personalised wedding experiences. The mix of royal grandeur and the rich modern hospitality makes this beautiful palace a dream destination to take those marriage vows and plan those memorable pre-and post-wedding celebrations.
No wonder then that earning the title of one of the country’s most splendid option for romantic weddings, Noor Mahal is nothing less than the epitome of intimacy and tradition.
Spread over 10 acres and 35,0000 square feet of carpet area, Noor Mahal is an ideal venue for that dream destination wedding, offering everything from 13 beautifully appointed banquet halls to an in-house salon, spa, gym and a team of wedding planners who are at your beck and call. No wonder then, Noor Mahal has become a one stop shop for all wedding requirements as the hotel follows an innovative approach in keeping up with the times and offering guests trendy and personalised wedding experiences. The mix of royal grandeur and the rich modern hospitality makes this beautiful palace a dream destination to take those marriage vows and plan those memorable pre-and post-wedding celebrations.
No wonder then that earning the title of one of the country’s most splendid option for romantic weddings, Noor Mahal is nothing less than the epitome of intimacy and tradition.
Noor Mahal Crossing, NH1,
Sector-32, Karnal (NCR)
Telephone: 09996787884 / 891 / 892
Email: sales@noormahal.in / salesbqts@noormahal.in
www.noormahal.in
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 3rd August 2019 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Saturday Great Escapes section on page 23 https://www.freepressjournal.in/travel/that-royal-touch)
Great Escapes--3rd August 2019
Great Escapes weekly Saturday travel page for The Free Press Journal newspaper curated, edited and produced by Raul Dias
Sunday, July 28, 2019
Desi Flavours
(An edited version of this column first appeared in the 28th July 2019 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Weekend section on page 3 https://www.freepressjournal.in/weekend/india-inspired-iconic-dishes-from-across-the-globe)
Saturday, July 27, 2019
Fork in the Road: Bulgarian Cuisine—Where East Meets West…
By Raul Dias
fusion
(n)
the process or result of joining two or more things together to form a single entity.
the process or result of joining two or more things together to form a single entity.
If there is one thing that I’ve always prided myself
on, then that would have to be my impeccable researching skills. Digging up as
much as I can before I visit someplace new is a process I relish. Almost as
much as finally getting there and having a first-hand experience. And when the
subject of said research is food, the combination is hard to resist, as I pore
over every morsel (pardon the pun!) of information I can get—online, offline, or
word-of-mouth—for weeks before I set off on my travels.
Sadly, in the case of my trip to Bulgaria earlier this year in April, I could not afford the luxury of a lengthy research session. A sudden, spur-of-the-moment invite saw me getting on a plane from Zurich to the Bulgarian capital of Sofia with just about enough time for me to pack my suitcase, leave alone immerse myself in research.
But this sudden trip also taught me a very important lesson. That going totally blind and knowing alarmingly little about a place is equally exhilarating as going in fully prepared is. Like for example, I never knew that Bulgarian food is very different from its other Eastern European counterparts in that it shares a number of dishes with Persian, Turkish, and Greek cuisine. You could perhaps, go so far as to call it one of the world’s earliest fusion cuisines.
They say you never forget your first time doing something. And for me, my initiation into the realm of Bulgarian cuisine will always be a bowl of refreshingly chilled tarator soup that my host Mina insisted I try at a small hole-in-the-wall food kiosk near the National Museum in the heart of Sofia. Though April is still early spring in Bulgaria, the rather muggy weather totally warranted this summer soup that tasted like a thinned down cross between the yogurt-mint-cucumber-dill Greek dip of tzatziki and our very own Indian raita.
Another mainstay of Bulgarian cuisine was next. Still flirting with a strong Greek influence, the banitsa is a coiled breakfast pastry of eggs, a yellow cheese called kashkaval, and yogurt, all ensconced between phyllo layers. Interestingly, it also reminded me of the Turkish börek pastry I had totally OD’d on a few years ago on a trip to Istanbul.
Referencing a fried Canadian dough snack called beaver tails, a single serving of the blueberry jam smeared mekitsa—that is made with yogurt and eggs—was too hard to resist as we passed by the Mekitsa & Coffee shop in downtown Sofia. So, I had two! The second one a scrumptious savoury iteration that was slathered with the salty Bulgarian sour cream called smetana.
Craving something more lunch-like and less snacky, we headed down to Sofia’s bustling central food market—diagonally opposite the ancient historical site of the Serdika ruins—for a meal that we picked up in several parts from the many food stalls that inhabit this gargantuan covered hall. One of the first things Mina bought for us was a plate of shopska salata. Now, according to Bulgarian tradition, shopska salata or shopska salad is what newlyweds sit down and eat as their first meal together after the ceremonies. The recipe may seem simple, with just a few fresh cut vegetables like cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, and bell peppers as ingredients, but the taste is dynamite when coupled with a sprinkling of the crumbly, salty sirene cheese.
This was followed by a few more mezze-like dishes such as kebapche (a variation of the ubiquitous minced meat, spices, and herbs kebab) and the divine Greek dolmades-like lozovi sarmi that uses grape leaves as a base, that are then stuffed with minced meat, rice, herbs, and yogurt.
For mains, we bought a serving of the traditional Bulgarian dish of gyuvech. This hearty one pot dish is a stew made from meat, mushrooms, peppers and onions with some kashkaval cheese grated over it. I was told that a good Gyuvech will always have boiled eggs and a whole lot of Paprika in it. And the one I ate sure did.
It was like taking a stroll down a middle eastern souk for dessert, as we got an assorted platter of baklava which are tiny honey-orange water-sugar syrup drenched pastries made from phyllo sheets that are stuffed with almonds and pistachios.
From the excitingly unknown to the comfortingly familiar, the food of Bulgaria sure taught me something I’ll never forget—going blind can “show” you a lot more than you’d bargained for!
Sadly, in the case of my trip to Bulgaria earlier this year in April, I could not afford the luxury of a lengthy research session. A sudden, spur-of-the-moment invite saw me getting on a plane from Zurich to the Bulgarian capital of Sofia with just about enough time for me to pack my suitcase, leave alone immerse myself in research.
But this sudden trip also taught me a very important lesson. That going totally blind and knowing alarmingly little about a place is equally exhilarating as going in fully prepared is. Like for example, I never knew that Bulgarian food is very different from its other Eastern European counterparts in that it shares a number of dishes with Persian, Turkish, and Greek cuisine. You could perhaps, go so far as to call it one of the world’s earliest fusion cuisines.
They say you never forget your first time doing something. And for me, my initiation into the realm of Bulgarian cuisine will always be a bowl of refreshingly chilled tarator soup that my host Mina insisted I try at a small hole-in-the-wall food kiosk near the National Museum in the heart of Sofia. Though April is still early spring in Bulgaria, the rather muggy weather totally warranted this summer soup that tasted like a thinned down cross between the yogurt-mint-cucumber-dill Greek dip of tzatziki and our very own Indian raita.
Another mainstay of Bulgarian cuisine was next. Still flirting with a strong Greek influence, the banitsa is a coiled breakfast pastry of eggs, a yellow cheese called kashkaval, and yogurt, all ensconced between phyllo layers. Interestingly, it also reminded me of the Turkish börek pastry I had totally OD’d on a few years ago on a trip to Istanbul.
Referencing a fried Canadian dough snack called beaver tails, a single serving of the blueberry jam smeared mekitsa—that is made with yogurt and eggs—was too hard to resist as we passed by the Mekitsa & Coffee shop in downtown Sofia. So, I had two! The second one a scrumptious savoury iteration that was slathered with the salty Bulgarian sour cream called smetana.
Craving something more lunch-like and less snacky, we headed down to Sofia’s bustling central food market—diagonally opposite the ancient historical site of the Serdika ruins—for a meal that we picked up in several parts from the many food stalls that inhabit this gargantuan covered hall. One of the first things Mina bought for us was a plate of shopska salata. Now, according to Bulgarian tradition, shopska salata or shopska salad is what newlyweds sit down and eat as their first meal together after the ceremonies. The recipe may seem simple, with just a few fresh cut vegetables like cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, and bell peppers as ingredients, but the taste is dynamite when coupled with a sprinkling of the crumbly, salty sirene cheese.
This was followed by a few more mezze-like dishes such as kebapche (a variation of the ubiquitous minced meat, spices, and herbs kebab) and the divine Greek dolmades-like lozovi sarmi that uses grape leaves as a base, that are then stuffed with minced meat, rice, herbs, and yogurt.
For mains, we bought a serving of the traditional Bulgarian dish of gyuvech. This hearty one pot dish is a stew made from meat, mushrooms, peppers and onions with some kashkaval cheese grated over it. I was told that a good Gyuvech will always have boiled eggs and a whole lot of Paprika in it. And the one I ate sure did.
It was like taking a stroll down a middle eastern souk for dessert, as we got an assorted platter of baklava which are tiny honey-orange water-sugar syrup drenched pastries made from phyllo sheets that are stuffed with almonds and pistachios.
From the excitingly unknown to the comfortingly familiar, the food of Bulgaria sure taught me something I’ll never forget—going blind can “show” you a lot more than you’d bargained for!
(First published on 27th July 2019. Appearing every last Saturday of the month in The Free Press Journal newspaper, this column is all about viewing travel through the prism of food. https://www.freepressjournal.in/travel/bulgarian-cuisine-where-east-meets-west)
Great Escapes--27th July 2019
Great Escapes weekly Saturday travel page for The Free Press Journal newspaper curated, edited and produced by Raul Dias
Saturday, July 20, 2019
Great Escapes--20th July 2019
Great Escapes weekly Saturday travel page for The Free Press Journal newspaper curated, edited and produced by Raul Dias
Saturday, July 13, 2019
Conscious Coupling
The opulent Dhara Dhevi resort in Chiang Mai, Northern Thailand is the perfect place to host a luxurious destination wedding. Raul Dias you on a journey through this breathtaking getaway.
By Raul Dias
The wind rustles through the emerald-hued paddy fields, lush and verdant after the previous night’s rain. The heady fragrance of frangipani permeates every nook and cranny, as the chirruping of cicadas provides the ambient sound track, competing with the gentle gurgling of a nearby brook. The sky is a shade of deep purple, speckled with golden bursts of light. You stop. You ponder. “Could this be really happening to me?” seems to be a question your mind asks no one in particular on a repeated loop. Then, suddenly, it all begins to sink in, every piece of this mind-boggling puzzle fitting in perfectly with each other…
Now, imagine this very same place as the venue for that dream destination wedding. Nestled in the fecund valley of Chiang Mai, in the Northern Thailand region of Lanna, this is one getaway where breathtaking beauty and opulent luxury are a way of life. A picture postcard perfect setting to exchange those lifelong vows.
Wedding wows!
With its expansive lawns overlooked by the sacred Bo trees and a delightful Lanna prayer hall set among verdant gardens, the location of the resort offers unparalleled advantages for weddings. As a wedding venue, you can choose from a variety of wedding receptions: the elegance of a European-style white wedding or the magnificence of a Lanna nuptial ceremony, rich in ancient traditions. Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai will take great care to make the moment unique. Weddings at Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai blend ceremonial pomp with traditional Lanna rituals, bringing together Thailand’s gentle charms with the expertise of well trained staff. In the grounds, the couple can ride away on a horse-drawn carriage or drift into the sky in a hot air balloon. Banquet menus are prepared using only the freshest ingredients, while the wine and champagne list caters for the most expert palates. Floral arrangements make use of northern Thailand’s abundant roses, jasmine and strelitzia, as well as exotic orchids, for which the country is famous.
Luxe unlimited
Offering some of the world’s most spacious and exclusive accommodation for you and your wedding guests, Dhara Dhevi’s 123 luxurious villas, colonial suites and signature residences have been crafted in keeping with traditional Lanna architectural styles. They feature extensive museum-quality artifacts, sumptuous Thai silks and local hill-tribe textiles, spacious terraces, some of which incorporate private plunge pools or swimming pools. The exquisitely designed interiors seamlessly blend age-old tradition with modern convenience and high technology. The resort’s unique design draws from the region’s rich architectural and cultural heritage that flourished during the Lanna period, which lasted from the mid-13th century until the mid-16th century and enjoyed a further resurgence in the last 200 years. It is these essential elements that contribute to an overall atmosphere of unparalleled luxury and serenity.
Suite surprise
For your wedding night, the piece de resistance has simply got to be The Royal Residence. Located in a self-contained area, the Royal Residence is a small ‘private retreat’ and is ideal for guests who seek exclusivity and privacy. It comprises six bedrooms, three with a king bed and three with twin beds. The ancient palace style architecture epitomises a grandeur and opulence of a bygone age, whilst every modern convenience and facilities have been incorporated into the unit - spacious bathrooms, generous living room space, large dining room and pantry, all connected by a walkway. Three private pools and three Jacuzzis complete the picture of ultimate luxury.
Dine (and wine!) like a royal
For the other smaller pre- and post-wedding functions, take your pick from a whole cornucopia of restaurants, bars and cafes that can be found sprawled about the extensive property. Set in a cluster of traditional Lanna style buildings, Le Grand Lanna—the specialty Thai restaurant serves regional cuisine from both Northern and Central Thailand.
Serving imperial Chinese cuisine along with dim sum in an elegant two-storey Sino-Portuguese style mansion, Fujian is another great dining option. Highlighting ‘French Progressive Cuisine’ Farang Ses is an opulent French restaurant serving modern French cuisine. For your cocktail evening, the Horn Bar featuring masks from different regions of Myanmar, depicting mythological characters is THE place to unwind.
Spa time
Speaking of unwinding, no destination wedding experience in Thailand can be complete without a soothing spa session. And the Dhara Dhevi’s Dheva Spa and Wellness Centre takes care of all your pre-wedding beauty and grooming needs to the hilt. Spread out over 3,100 square metres, this spa is a destination in itself and features signature ceremonies adapted from traditional practices from Northern Thai, Burmese and Indian cultures. Key treatments include The Royal Thai ceremony, Lanna ceremony, Mandalay ceremony and yes, even a typically Indian Ayurvedic ceremony.
Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai
51/4 Chiang Mai-Sankampaeng Road, Moo 1,
T. Tasala, A. Muang, Chiang Mai 50000 Thailand
Telephone: +66 (53) 888 888
www.dharadhevi.com
By Raul Dias
The wind rustles through the emerald-hued paddy fields, lush and verdant after the previous night’s rain. The heady fragrance of frangipani permeates every nook and cranny, as the chirruping of cicadas provides the ambient sound track, competing with the gentle gurgling of a nearby brook. The sky is a shade of deep purple, speckled with golden bursts of light. You stop. You ponder. “Could this be really happening to me?” seems to be a question your mind asks no one in particular on a repeated loop. Then, suddenly, it all begins to sink in, every piece of this mind-boggling puzzle fitting in perfectly with each other…
Now, imagine this very same place as the venue for that dream destination wedding. Nestled in the fecund valley of Chiang Mai, in the Northern Thailand region of Lanna, this is one getaway where breathtaking beauty and opulent luxury are a way of life. A picture postcard perfect setting to exchange those lifelong vows.
Wedding wows!
With its expansive lawns overlooked by the sacred Bo trees and a delightful Lanna prayer hall set among verdant gardens, the location of the resort offers unparalleled advantages for weddings. As a wedding venue, you can choose from a variety of wedding receptions: the elegance of a European-style white wedding or the magnificence of a Lanna nuptial ceremony, rich in ancient traditions. Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai will take great care to make the moment unique. Weddings at Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai blend ceremonial pomp with traditional Lanna rituals, bringing together Thailand’s gentle charms with the expertise of well trained staff. In the grounds, the couple can ride away on a horse-drawn carriage or drift into the sky in a hot air balloon. Banquet menus are prepared using only the freshest ingredients, while the wine and champagne list caters for the most expert palates. Floral arrangements make use of northern Thailand’s abundant roses, jasmine and strelitzia, as well as exotic orchids, for which the country is famous.
Luxe unlimited
Offering some of the world’s most spacious and exclusive accommodation for you and your wedding guests, Dhara Dhevi’s 123 luxurious villas, colonial suites and signature residences have been crafted in keeping with traditional Lanna architectural styles. They feature extensive museum-quality artifacts, sumptuous Thai silks and local hill-tribe textiles, spacious terraces, some of which incorporate private plunge pools or swimming pools. The exquisitely designed interiors seamlessly blend age-old tradition with modern convenience and high technology. The resort’s unique design draws from the region’s rich architectural and cultural heritage that flourished during the Lanna period, which lasted from the mid-13th century until the mid-16th century and enjoyed a further resurgence in the last 200 years. It is these essential elements that contribute to an overall atmosphere of unparalleled luxury and serenity.
Suite surprise
For your wedding night, the piece de resistance has simply got to be The Royal Residence. Located in a self-contained area, the Royal Residence is a small ‘private retreat’ and is ideal for guests who seek exclusivity and privacy. It comprises six bedrooms, three with a king bed and three with twin beds. The ancient palace style architecture epitomises a grandeur and opulence of a bygone age, whilst every modern convenience and facilities have been incorporated into the unit - spacious bathrooms, generous living room space, large dining room and pantry, all connected by a walkway. Three private pools and three Jacuzzis complete the picture of ultimate luxury.
Dine (and wine!) like a royal
For the other smaller pre- and post-wedding functions, take your pick from a whole cornucopia of restaurants, bars and cafes that can be found sprawled about the extensive property. Set in a cluster of traditional Lanna style buildings, Le Grand Lanna—the specialty Thai restaurant serves regional cuisine from both Northern and Central Thailand.
Serving imperial Chinese cuisine along with dim sum in an elegant two-storey Sino-Portuguese style mansion, Fujian is another great dining option. Highlighting ‘French Progressive Cuisine’ Farang Ses is an opulent French restaurant serving modern French cuisine. For your cocktail evening, the Horn Bar featuring masks from different regions of Myanmar, depicting mythological characters is THE place to unwind.
Spa time
Speaking of unwinding, no destination wedding experience in Thailand can be complete without a soothing spa session. And the Dhara Dhevi’s Dheva Spa and Wellness Centre takes care of all your pre-wedding beauty and grooming needs to the hilt. Spread out over 3,100 square metres, this spa is a destination in itself and features signature ceremonies adapted from traditional practices from Northern Thai, Burmese and Indian cultures. Key treatments include The Royal Thai ceremony, Lanna ceremony, Mandalay ceremony and yes, even a typically Indian Ayurvedic ceremony.
Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai
51/4 Chiang Mai-Sankampaeng Road, Moo 1,
T. Tasala, A. Muang, Chiang Mai 50000 Thailand
Telephone: +66 (53) 888 888
www.dharadhevi.com
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 13th June 2019 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Saturday Great Escapes section on page 21 http://epaper.freepressjournal.in/m5/2239923/Free-Press-Mumbai-Edition/13-Jul-2019#page/21/1)
Great Escapes--13th July 2019
Great Escapes weekly Saturday travel page for The Free Press Journal newspaper curated, edited and produced by Raul Dias
Sunday, July 7, 2019
Rain Chasing…
Once again, it’s that time of the year
when the monsoons has us all under its aqueous spell. Raul Dias takes you to four Indian
states where the rains create pure magic!
By Raul Dias
There is something about India’s
monsoon season that has always generated vastly polarised opinions. You either
love it or you absolutely loathe it. There is no middle ground here. Luckily
for me, I’m a member of the former tribe. A tribe that has people like me wait
in fervent hope for the cooling rains after the brutality of an Indian summer
year after year. And while I can go on ad nauseum about the magic of the rains
and the smell of wet earth and the other assorted monsoon accoutrements, I’m
not so chuffed about wading through the muck and grime that all but covers my
home city of Mumbai from mid-June right through to the end of September.
So, to remedy that, for the last couple of years, I’ve made conscious efforts to see the monsoon magic from other perspectives. And that has entailed taking short breaks to places in India that truly bask in the glory of the rains.
Here’s my round up of the top states of India that celebrate the monsoons the way it was meant to be:
So, to remedy that, for the last couple of years, I’ve made conscious efforts to see the monsoon magic from other perspectives. And that has entailed taking short breaks to places in India that truly bask in the glory of the rains.
Here’s my round up of the top states of India that celebrate the monsoons the way it was meant to be:
Rajasthan
I might be courting controversy by starting off my list with a state like Rajasthan. But believe me, the magic of the rains has never been more alluring for me anywhere else than here. Udaipur is one place that springs to mind the fastest. A place that truly reflects its glorious past of the maharajas with umpteen number of palaces and beautiful lakes, Udaipur blossoms during the monsoons with a lush carpet of green spreading everywhere you look with its lakes brimming with their aqueous bounty.
With a gentle shower every now and then, the city of Pushkar too is another great option to enjoy the rains in Rajasthan. This beautiful and soothing side of Rajasthan is replete with all he tropes of beauty, be it waking up to the call of peacocks to early morning camel rides around town to sipping some warm kullad walla chai in the bazar. Pure, undiluted bliss!
I might be courting controversy by starting off my list with a state like Rajasthan. But believe me, the magic of the rains has never been more alluring for me anywhere else than here. Udaipur is one place that springs to mind the fastest. A place that truly reflects its glorious past of the maharajas with umpteen number of palaces and beautiful lakes, Udaipur blossoms during the monsoons with a lush carpet of green spreading everywhere you look with its lakes brimming with their aqueous bounty.
With a gentle shower every now and then, the city of Pushkar too is another great option to enjoy the rains in Rajasthan. This beautiful and soothing side of Rajasthan is replete with all he tropes of beauty, be it waking up to the call of peacocks to early morning camel rides around town to sipping some warm kullad walla chai in the bazar. Pure, undiluted bliss!
Meghalaya
No list about India’s monsoon havens could ever be complete without an ode to the state that has the word ‘monsoon’ written in big bold alphabets all over it. Why, even its name “Meghalaya” means “abode of the clouds”. Places like Cherrapunji and nearby Mawsynram have often been credited as being the wettest places on Earth, where the rains seep into (pun intended!) every part of life in these magical and misty towns.
The state capital of Shillong too is often considered one of the best places in India to visit during monsoons. Surrounded by the dew-covered Khasi and Jayanti hills which are adorned by numerous waterfalls, Shillong is always on my monsoon must-visit list.
No list about India’s monsoon havens could ever be complete without an ode to the state that has the word ‘monsoon’ written in big bold alphabets all over it. Why, even its name “Meghalaya” means “abode of the clouds”. Places like Cherrapunji and nearby Mawsynram have often been credited as being the wettest places on Earth, where the rains seep into (pun intended!) every part of life in these magical and misty towns.
The state capital of Shillong too is often considered one of the best places in India to visit during monsoons. Surrounded by the dew-covered Khasi and Jayanti hills which are adorned by numerous waterfalls, Shillong is always on my monsoon must-visit list.
Kerala
Though I may hear some of you shout “cliché!”, my rebuttal would be “what’s wrong with a little cliché every now and then?” It would be stating the obvious to say that the rains and Kerala go hand-in-hand, with enough written about the backwaters of Alappuzha and beaches like Kovalam that embody the season. But I prefer something a little different when in Kerala for the rains. Yes, I’m talking about hilly Munnar, that, for me, is God’s very own playground. With silvery mist, incredibly vast tea gardens, lush green hills, a romantic atmosphere and pleasant climate, this hill station is truly one of the most underrated places in Kerala during monsoons.
Still on the Kerala hill station trail, I truly believe that Wayanad is another gem of a place to visit during monsoons in all of South India. Interestingly, for the last couple of years, Wayanad has been hosting a special three-day monsoon festival called ‘Splash’ that celebrates the monsoons in Kerala the way it ought to be.
Though I may hear some of you shout “cliché!”, my rebuttal would be “what’s wrong with a little cliché every now and then?” It would be stating the obvious to say that the rains and Kerala go hand-in-hand, with enough written about the backwaters of Alappuzha and beaches like Kovalam that embody the season. But I prefer something a little different when in Kerala for the rains. Yes, I’m talking about hilly Munnar, that, for me, is God’s very own playground. With silvery mist, incredibly vast tea gardens, lush green hills, a romantic atmosphere and pleasant climate, this hill station is truly one of the most underrated places in Kerala during monsoons.
Still on the Kerala hill station trail, I truly believe that Wayanad is another gem of a place to visit during monsoons in all of South India. Interestingly, for the last couple of years, Wayanad has been hosting a special three-day monsoon festival called ‘Splash’ that celebrates the monsoons in Kerala the way it ought to be.
Maharashtra
I can’t possibly not wax eloquent about the monsoons and rural Maharashtra. The heady twosome that have a bond so very tight. Replete with attractions like the Kulaba Fort, Alibag Beach, Murud Beach and Khanderi, the Konkan coastal area close to Mumbai is a great escape from the city to start with. Known for its rich history, appetizing seafood, culture, and a plethora of cute and cozy homestays, Alibag is the best place to base oneself at for a week of uninterrupted monsoon bliss.
Situated in the Palani hills of Maharashtra’s Western Ghats, Lonavala is a great hill station destination to chase the rain. Offering everything from enchanting waterfalls, lakes and lush greenery and not to mention spectacular views of the ghats and hills, this quick getaway that lies exactly halfway between Mumbai and Pune makes for the perfect weekend monsoon jaunt.
(An edited version of this column first appeared in the 7th July 2019 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Weekend section on page 3 https://www.freepressjournal.in/travel/4-indian-states-and-the-magic-of-rain)
I can’t possibly not wax eloquent about the monsoons and rural Maharashtra. The heady twosome that have a bond so very tight. Replete with attractions like the Kulaba Fort, Alibag Beach, Murud Beach and Khanderi, the Konkan coastal area close to Mumbai is a great escape from the city to start with. Known for its rich history, appetizing seafood, culture, and a plethora of cute and cozy homestays, Alibag is the best place to base oneself at for a week of uninterrupted monsoon bliss.
Situated in the Palani hills of Maharashtra’s Western Ghats, Lonavala is a great hill station destination to chase the rain. Offering everything from enchanting waterfalls, lakes and lush greenery and not to mention spectacular views of the ghats and hills, this quick getaway that lies exactly halfway between Mumbai and Pune makes for the perfect weekend monsoon jaunt.
(An edited version of this column first appeared in the 7th July 2019 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Weekend section on page 3 https://www.freepressjournal.in/travel/4-indian-states-and-the-magic-of-rain)
Saturday, July 6, 2019
Great Escapes--6th July 2019
Great Escapes weekly Saturday travel page for The Free Press Journal newspaper curated, edited and produced by Raul Dias
Saturday, June 29, 2019
Fork in the Road: Sarafa Bazaar—Indore’s Delectable Eat Street!
By Raul Dias
oversight (n)
an unintentional failure to notice or do something.
If there is one mantra that I’ve lived by all my life, then, that is, to come clean, admit one’s faults and be upfront. And now, more so than ever before, as I kick off something new and exciting such as this column that sees travel through that delicious prism called food! So, for me, its confession time.
While I may have eaten my way through everything from stewed silkworms in China to fried fruit bats in Mexico on my travels around the world, I’ve always given the cold shoulder to the street food of my home country—India. Blame it on an almost-zero spice tolerance level or on that old adage of the “grass is greener on the other side”, but I had never really tried to lose myself in the gullies and nukkads of India where an abundance of street-side treats can be found. Each more enticing than the other.
But all that changed a few months ago when I was literally dragooned by a group of friends into a night out of all things street food on a short trip to India’s cleanest city for a third year in a row, Indore in the wonderful state of Madhya Pradesh. And there is only one spot for such a feeding frenzy to take place at. By day, the 100-year-old Sarafa Bazaar is a busy market full of jewellery shops enticing patrons with gleaming necklaces and rows of stacked bangles. However, every night at around 11pm or so, it takes on another countenance. Yes, almost in a Dr. Jekyll/Mr. Hyde fashion Sarafa Bazaar transforms into an all-vegetarian street food haven like no other I’ve ever seen. Bangkok’s Khao San Road Market eat your heart out!
My very first stop is at the famous Joshi Dahi Vada whose proprietor Mr. Joshi is quite a food acrobat, I soon learn. Theatrically spinning a bowl of dahi vada in air and collecting it all back without spilling a drop, he makes sure you don’t leave without having a bite of his soft and tangy dahi vadas, sprinkled with lime, coriander and amchur. We next move on to try one of the bazaar’s signature foods—bhutte ka kees at a shop called Chhappan Dukan. Unique to this part of India, the divine bhutte ka kees is made from mashed corn smothered in ghee and spices and sprinkled with freshly grated coconut. On realising that I am a food writer, the shop’s owner insists that I try (for free!) another typically Induri dish called garaadu made up of deep-fried yam cubes anointed with a tangy chaat masala dusting.
Still on the savoury food trail, another dish I am literally forced to indulge in is the texturally brilliant dal bafna. Very similar to the Rajasthani dal baati, here the bafna ball is made with a mix of semolina and wheat flour and served with a dal that is spiked with mint chutney and mango pickle for a tangy hit. Served dipped in ghee, the bafna makes sweet love to the dal, resulting in a delicious coupling like no other.
Saving a little space for the sweet onslaught that is to come is a sensible move, as I find myself wolfing down a malpua-rabdi combination at the famous Jai Bhole Jalebi Bhandar that is soon chased by a mawa baati, which is a local take on a gulab jamun that sees this iteration stuffed with dried fruit and nuts.
It’s almost 1.30am as I waddle out of the still-bustling Sarafa Bazaar wishing and hoping that breakfast a few hours later at my five-star hotel could hold a candle to this kind of sheer street food brilliance…
(First published on 29th June 2019. Appearing every last Saturday of the month in The Free Press Journal newspaper, this column is all about viewing travel through the prism of food. https://www.freepressjournal.in/travel/sarafa-bazaar-indores-delectable-eat-street-2)
Great Escapes--29th June 2019
Great Escapes weekly Saturday travel page for The Free Press Journal newspaper curated, edited and produced by Raul Dias
Sunday, June 23, 2019
Nostalgia—The Berlin Way!
Once a divided city split in two by a mighty wall, Berlin still pays homage to its communist past in myriad ways. Raul Dias takes you to a few iconic places in the German capital that both reference and celebrate this nostalgia equally.
By Raul Dias
Visiting a city like the German capital of Berlin taught me a very important lesson. And that is, that the feelings of nostalgia cannot be compartmentalised into rigid boxes of ‘positive’ or ‘negative’ memories of the past. Even though most of us, including myself, tend to lean towards the former as we reminisce of the good old days. I also learnt that the past cannot be ignored and white washed over!
In the few days spent there, I noticed that some of the most visited attractions in the city are those that reference the city’s divided, pre-1990 past so very well. The Berliners have even coined a very interesting phrase to represent their very own brand of nostalgia. They call it ‘Ostalgie’. Simply put, Ostalgie is nostalgia for aspects of life in Communist East Germany. It is a portmanteau of the German words Ost (east) and Nostalgie (nostalgia) and one that popped up almost everywhere I went.
But, having said that, I found it represented the best in the following attractions and sites around Berlin:
East Side Gallery
I cannot possibly kick start this list without one of the most iconic and obvious remnants of the Deutsche Demokratische Republik (DDR) taking top billing! Yes, I’m talking about the mighty Berlin Wall. Though most of the wall has be razed there are parts of it scattered across the city that still give you a good look and feel. Once such place is the East Side Gallery that lies between the Berlin Ostbahnhof and the Oberbaumbrücke, located right next to the River Spree. Parts of the Berlin Wall are still there and street artists from all over the world have immortalised their work on the wall, which makes it a 1,316-meter-long piece of art. 118 artists from 21 countries painted on the wall in 1990, and since then it’s one of the most famous monuments in Germany.
Checkpoint Charlie
Another must-visit, given the sheer number of selfie-hungry tourists that swing by it is the infamous Checkpoint Charlie. A former border crossing at Friedrichstrasse, it was managed by the Allies during World War II and in 1961, the U.S and the Soviet tanks had a confrontation here. Checkpoint Charlie also served as a place where many tried to escape from East Berlin. Do make sure to check out the wall museum, as you can explore things which were used to escape underneath or over the wall and read stories of the refugees. The museum does serve to keep their memories alive, as it rightly should...
DDR Museum
Another must-visit Ostalgie strong-hold is the DDR Museum. Located right in the center of Berlin across from the Berliner Dom, the museum is perhaps one of the first places to go if you want to learn more about East German history in the city. This interactive museum has exhibitions that are all about the daily life in the former DDR in all its morbid glory! From the Stasi secret police, the Trabant car to the rather stark and austere DDR style housing and plenty more. Here is where you will get to immerse yourself into a different time and experience 40 years of the DDR.
Unterwelten
Speaking of an ‘immersion’, how about doing so literally? Descend into the bowels of the city and get yourself a piece of history in a place that is as different from a museum or a monument as it can possibly be. I’m talking of Berlin’s Unterwelten. Most people would not have been to a bunker or an abandoned U-Bahn tunnel, so now’s your chance. The Berlin Unterwelten offers five daily English tours through subterranean Berlin. You can experience World War II bombing raids through the eyes of citizens, see a former mother and child bunker or walk through the escape tunnels under the Berlin Wall.
Dinner and a movie, perhaps?
The city’s stunning Karl-Marx-Allee boasts two of the DDR’s cult cinemas, the Kino Kosmos and the Kino International—both offering you a different twist on your normal movie night. Kino Kosmos has a mammoth 3,400 seats and was the DDR’s largest cinema. Its architecture and typography will transport you in a different time. Still on the Karl-Marx-Allee, Café Sibylle offers cinemagoers a convenient option for a pre- or post-cinema coffee. The café exhibits authentic DDR flair with original painted murals covering its walls and everyday objects from 1950s East Germany dotted around its rooms.
(An edited version of this column first appeared in the 23rd June2019 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Weekend section on page 3 https://www.freepressjournal.in/weekend/how-berlin-has-kept-its-nostalgia-intact)
By Raul Dias
Visiting a city like the German capital of Berlin taught me a very important lesson. And that is, that the feelings of nostalgia cannot be compartmentalised into rigid boxes of ‘positive’ or ‘negative’ memories of the past. Even though most of us, including myself, tend to lean towards the former as we reminisce of the good old days. I also learnt that the past cannot be ignored and white washed over!
In the few days spent there, I noticed that some of the most visited attractions in the city are those that reference the city’s divided, pre-1990 past so very well. The Berliners have even coined a very interesting phrase to represent their very own brand of nostalgia. They call it ‘Ostalgie’. Simply put, Ostalgie is nostalgia for aspects of life in Communist East Germany. It is a portmanteau of the German words Ost (east) and Nostalgie (nostalgia) and one that popped up almost everywhere I went.
But, having said that, I found it represented the best in the following attractions and sites around Berlin:
East Side Gallery
I cannot possibly kick start this list without one of the most iconic and obvious remnants of the Deutsche Demokratische Republik (DDR) taking top billing! Yes, I’m talking about the mighty Berlin Wall. Though most of the wall has be razed there are parts of it scattered across the city that still give you a good look and feel. Once such place is the East Side Gallery that lies between the Berlin Ostbahnhof and the Oberbaumbrücke, located right next to the River Spree. Parts of the Berlin Wall are still there and street artists from all over the world have immortalised their work on the wall, which makes it a 1,316-meter-long piece of art. 118 artists from 21 countries painted on the wall in 1990, and since then it’s one of the most famous monuments in Germany.
Checkpoint Charlie
Another must-visit, given the sheer number of selfie-hungry tourists that swing by it is the infamous Checkpoint Charlie. A former border crossing at Friedrichstrasse, it was managed by the Allies during World War II and in 1961, the U.S and the Soviet tanks had a confrontation here. Checkpoint Charlie also served as a place where many tried to escape from East Berlin. Do make sure to check out the wall museum, as you can explore things which were used to escape underneath or over the wall and read stories of the refugees. The museum does serve to keep their memories alive, as it rightly should...
DDR Museum
Another must-visit Ostalgie strong-hold is the DDR Museum. Located right in the center of Berlin across from the Berliner Dom, the museum is perhaps one of the first places to go if you want to learn more about East German history in the city. This interactive museum has exhibitions that are all about the daily life in the former DDR in all its morbid glory! From the Stasi secret police, the Trabant car to the rather stark and austere DDR style housing and plenty more. Here is where you will get to immerse yourself into a different time and experience 40 years of the DDR.
Unterwelten
Speaking of an ‘immersion’, how about doing so literally? Descend into the bowels of the city and get yourself a piece of history in a place that is as different from a museum or a monument as it can possibly be. I’m talking of Berlin’s Unterwelten. Most people would not have been to a bunker or an abandoned U-Bahn tunnel, so now’s your chance. The Berlin Unterwelten offers five daily English tours through subterranean Berlin. You can experience World War II bombing raids through the eyes of citizens, see a former mother and child bunker or walk through the escape tunnels under the Berlin Wall.
Dinner and a movie, perhaps?
The city’s stunning Karl-Marx-Allee boasts two of the DDR’s cult cinemas, the Kino Kosmos and the Kino International—both offering you a different twist on your normal movie night. Kino Kosmos has a mammoth 3,400 seats and was the DDR’s largest cinema. Its architecture and typography will transport you in a different time. Still on the Karl-Marx-Allee, Café Sibylle offers cinemagoers a convenient option for a pre- or post-cinema coffee. The café exhibits authentic DDR flair with original painted murals covering its walls and everyday objects from 1950s East Germany dotted around its rooms.
(An edited version of this column first appeared in the 23rd June2019 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Weekend section on page 3 https://www.freepressjournal.in/weekend/how-berlin-has-kept-its-nostalgia-intact)
Saturday, June 22, 2019
Great Escapes--22nd June 2019
Great Escapes weekly Saturday travel page for The Free Press Journal newspaper curated, edited and produced by Raul Dias
Saturday, June 15, 2019
Great Escapes--15th June 2019
Great Escapes weekly Saturday travel page for The Free Press Journal newspaper curated, edited and produced by Raul Dias
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