5 food museums around the world

 

 (This article first appeared online on 3rd August 2021 on ZeeZest https://zeezest.com/food/5-food-museums-around-the-world-803 )

The Progressive Menu—Swiss Style!

From playing host to mainland Europe’s only tea plantation to having the world’s first vegetarian ‘butcher’ and a chocolate factory manned by a single person, Switzerland is full of some of the unlikeliest of culinary surprises that make up the perfect progressive dining menu.    

By Raul Dias

I distinctly remember my very first encounter with the term “progressive dining”. It was a decade ago—after a sweltering hot April day spent traipsing around Bangkok’s shopping malls—that my local friends suggested an encore. But with a foodie twist. What they proposed was a jaunt across the bustling megalopolis where we’d have drinks at one place, appetisers at another, mains at a 1 Michelin-starred restaurant on the other side of the Chao Phraya River and end with a movable (quite literally!) dessert feast at Bangkok’s coolest new ice cream truck in the backpacker haven of Khao San Road.
Born in the US of the late 1980s as a sort of dining scene hybrid of the 70s potluck dinner and known  multifariously as a “safari supper” and a “round-robin”, a progressive dinner originally involved successive courses prepared and eaten at the residences of different hosts in the same area. And while my 2009 version had ‘progressed’ to involve different neighbourhoods in the same city, it’s safe to say that my recent 2019 upgraded Swiss iteration of the term involved something a tad different…  

  

Course I
Wine with Chips, perhaps?
With a legacy that stretches back to the 14^th Century, Domaine Zweifel is a winery that’s unlike any other I had ever visited. For one, it is located in the Limmat Valley just outside the city of Zurich in Zurich-Höngg, a short 15-minutes bus ride away from the city’s main train station. And though it isn’t surprising that Zurich is the largest wine producing area in eastern Switzerland, it is almost unfathomable to have a full-fledged vineyard so close to the city center. The family firm not only makes some truly fine-tasting, easy-on-the palate wines like the smoky Räuschling and the refreshing and light Pinot Gris but is also the producer of Zweifel, Switzerland’s number one brand of potato chips. The slightly spicy paprika flavoured one making for the perfect amuse-bouche when paired with their crisp Sauvignon Blanc.    

Course II
A Starters and Mains Veggie Wonderland
Having never heard of products like ‘Facon’ and ‘Noix Gras’ before, I lost my mock meat virginity at what is claimed to be the world’s first veggie butcher aka. the Hiltl Shop along Zurich’s St. Annagasse street. Chomping down on a fat piece of ‘bacon’ made from tempeh which is a fermented soy bean mock meat and a sliver of melba toast topped with the hazelnut substitute for the goose liver foie gras, I tried hard to mediate the conflict my mind and taste buds were having a go at. Both imposters were that deceptively authentic tasting.
An all vegetarian meal of cumin-dusted roasted cauliflower soup and saffron gnocchi was what followed next door to the ‘butcher shop’ at its sister concern—Haus Hiltl on Sihlstrasse street. This Guinness World Records-certified restaurant is believed to be the world’s oldest vegetarian restaurant having opened its doors in 1898. And while I was told that it welcomes all sorts of diners—including callous carnivores like myself—it banishes away those with a propensity for wearing fur. ‘nuff said!      

Course III
A Chocolate Overdose
Imagine a place that is just like Willy Wonka’s magical factory, but one where Willy Wonka and his posse of Oompa Loompas all fuse into one single person. For dessert of all things chocolate, I headed down to Zurich’s Überlandstrasse street for the one man show that is Taucherli Chocolate. Be it the chief chocolate maker, innovator, packer, marketeer, or supplier, Kay Keusen is all that at this one-man-run artisan chocolaterie. With a tasting of everything from the brand’s roasted rapeseed and spicy Christmas special chocolate bars to the deliciously dark 77% chocolate lollies made from Colombian cocoa nibs, Taucherli Chocolate reinforced my belief that dessert is truly the best part of the meal.

Course IV
Holy Cheese!
For my cheese course, I found myself in the beautiful winter paradise of Engelberg a short two-hour train ride away from Zurich via Lucerne. Just like its name—Engelberg (“angel mountain” in German)—almost everything in this tiny little Alpine town revolves around an angel who was said to have appeared in the dream of Duke Conrad von Sellenbüren in 1120 directing him to construct a monastery in the village. And today, nestled in the shadow of the mighty Titlis mountain, it is the attached cheese factory that is drawing in cheese aficionados by the droves. The show cheese factory is a rather unique one in that it is the only Swiss cheese factory located in a monastery and the only one that can produce the famous Engelberger Klosterglocke soft cream cheese that takes its trademarked bell shape from the monastery’s bell.

Course V
Tranquili‘Tea’…
Given my predilection for a nice post-prandial cup of green tea, I set off to the town of Ascona in the Italian-speaking canton of Ticino to get my fix. Now, while Switzerland might seem like the unlikeliest of places to have its own tea plantation, Monte Verità that looms above Ascona has its own story to tell. Once the spot where revolutionists, artists and philosophers used to experiment new ways of life, Monte Verità or “The Mountain of Truth” is also the place that has mainland Europe’s only tea plantation. It was here at the very end of the “Il sentiero del tè” tea path, surrounded by the lush tea bushes that I got my share of the refreshing sen-cha green tea at a quaint little Japanese tea hut in a traditional tea ceremony that made me believe that I was more in Sapporo than Switzerland!  

Travel log

Getting There
There are daily direct flights from India to Zurich on Swiss International Airlines. From Zurich, the extensive network of Swiss Railways gets you to both Engelberg and Ascona—or just about anywhere in the country—in luxury and comfort. Getting a Swiss Travel Pass before leaving for Switzerland is a great idea, as it includes unlimited travel on various modes of transport such as trains, trams, buses, cable cars, funiculars and boats. As a bonus, you also get free admission to more than 500 museums throughout Switzerland.

Stay
Though on the expensive side, Zurich has an excellent selection of hotels to choose from. Two such recommended accommodation options are the super trendy, city-centered Marktgasse Hotel Zürich (Rs 21,200 for two with breakfast, marktgassehotel.ch) and the more luxurious, art-filled The Dolder Grand Hotel (Rs 38,900 for two with breakfast, thedoldergrand.com) that’s a little out of the main Zurich commercial zone, but worth the trek!

Tip
* Why not bathe above Zurich’s rooftops? Sign yourselves up for a rooftop bathing experience at the Thermalbad & Spa Zurich amid the century-old stone vaults of the former brewery. Fresh thermal water bubbling straight from Zurich’s hot springs helps you catch up with some much-needed R&R (thermalbad-zuerich.ch).

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 3rd August 2019 issue of The Hindu Business Line newspaper's BLink section on page 21 https://www.thehindubusinessline.com/blink/takeaway/progressive-dining-in-switzerland/article28793834.ece?fbclid=IwAR0ksRMPhN19a2w0OxUtcyGOL0lip7Vv4g46dTzAFEHYDqt3u3vZpyYH5RI)

Zurich in Style!

A vibrant, stylish city that lies on the shores of the meandering River Limmat, Zurich has a lot to offer the sybaritic traveller. Raul Dias draws up the perfect itinerary for a short, luxurious stay in the financial capital of Switzerland.

By Raul Dias

Although I’ve been to Zurich several times—for both work and pleasure—I’ve never really had the chance to let the city truly show me what it was all about. A quick layover here or a passing through lunch there was all I had ever experienced of this Swiss city that deserved a lot more attention than I was giving it.
So, on my last trip to Switzerland, I decided to slow down and factor in three days to savour Zurich and all it had to offer me. Veering away from the typically touristy clichés, my itinerary was all about seeing the city from a fresh perspective. One where food, wine and living the good life trumped the rest.

Lunch at Haus Hiltl
According to the Guinness World Records, Haus Hiltl was the first vegetarian restaurant in the world. The restaurant—which is named for its founder, Ambrosius Hiltl—has been serving vegetarians and non-vegetarians alike with meat-free culinary specialties from all over the world since 1898. When here, make sure to try the cumin-dusted roasted cauliflower soup and the aromatic saffron gnocchi…and thank me later! (www.hiltl.ch)

Go on a walking tour
Take a private, guided walking tour of Zurich’s old quarter and come face to face with the city’s past and present through a selection of buildings, stories and anecdotes. You too will be fascinated by the rich testimonies to bygone days which document the early international significance of the city, as I was. And after your tour, why not stop by the Kunsthaus Zürich which houses the most important collection of Classical Modernism in Zurich? (www.zuerich.com)

Bathe above Zurich’s rooftops!
Confused? Well, I’m talking about the experience of bathing on the rooftop at the Thermalbad & Spa Zurich amid the century-old stone vaults of the former brewery. Fresh thermal water bubbling straight from Zurich’s hot springs helps you catch up with some much-needed R&R. Here you have the choice of a thermal bathing world or the Irish-Roman spa ritual—both of which invite you to sink into a world of wellness inside the unique architecture and matchless building structure of a very special place in the city. (www.thermalbad-zuerich.ch)

Wine tasting at Zweifel Wine
Located in the Höngg area of Zurich, this family-run winery can trace its roots as far back as the 14th century. Today it produces spectacular wines from its own vineyards in the city, the Limmat Valley, and the “Gold Coast” region along Lake Zurich. (www.zweifel1898.ch)

Go chocolate crazy
Chase all that wine with another icon of Switzerland—chocolate…but with a little twist! The one man show that is Taucherli Chocolate is a super innovative place to see how Swiss chocolate making has evolved. Take a bite off founder and sole employee (yes, you read right!) Kay Keusen’s deliciously dark 77% chocolate bar made from Colombian cocoa nibs or his truly unique ruby chocolate and roasted rapeseed milk chocolate bars. Pure, undiluted bliss.
Did you know?
The average person in Switzerland consumes about 9.9kg of chocolate per year which surpasses every other country in the world!

Shop at Freitag
In a building in Zurich-West, namely that of the former Maag cogwheel factory, the Freitag brothers produce over 120,000 bags and accessories every year from recycled materials taken from the streets. Read: used, exhaust-stained truck tarpaulins, the inner tubes of bicycle tires, old safety belts and air-bags. All this is transformed into unique items—trendy, functional, waterproof and robust. In fact, it was Zurich-West itself that inspired the Freitag brothers to make bags out of truck tarpaulins in the first place, thanks to the colourful trucks that trundle through the district on the transit route every day. (www.freitag.ch)

Have dinner at Clouds
End your Zurich trip in style and up in the clouds, well almost! A few yards away from the Freitag store, Restaurant Clouds is located 120 meters above the city as it sits atop Prime Tower, Switzerland’s tallest building. Here the dining experience extends far beyond that of a fine dining restaurant, with a bistro and a bar promising spectacular views of the city, Lake Zürich, and the Alps at sunset. The scrumptious cuisine here is primarily Mediterranean, inspired by Catalonia. (www.clouds.ch)

FACT FILE

Getting There
There are daily direct flights from India to Zurich, Switzerland on a world-class airline such as Swiss International Airlines. From Zurich, the extensive network of Swiss Railways gets you just about anywhere in luxury and comfort. Visit www.swiss.com for more information.

When to Visit
A great all-year-round destination, Switzerland is equally wonderful in the spring and summer months from May to September—when one can enjoy hiking in the lush hills and mountains—as it is in winter from December to March when the ski season transforms the country into a snow-covered winter wonderland. Visit www.swissinfo.ch for more information.

Accommodation
Zurich has an excellent selection of hotels to choose from to suit all budgets and tastes. Two such recommended accommodation options are:
* Marktgasse Hotel Zürich (www.marktgassehotel.ch)
* The Dolder Grand Hotel (www.thedoldergrand.com)

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 8th June 2019 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Saturday Great Escapes section on page 24 https://www.freepressjournal.in/travel/what-stylish-zurich-has-to-offer)

A-N-A-T-O-M-I-Z-E: Ruby Chocolate

By Raul Dias

Exactly a year ago, in September 2017, the holy trinity of dark, milk and white chocolate saw an interloper called ruby chocolate disrupting their unchallenged hegemony for its own piece of the chocolate pie (pun intended!). All this, a good 80 years after white chocolate was first inducted into the hallowed ‘chocolate hall of fame’, much to the horror of the chocolate cognoscenti, who, at that time, swore by their traditional dark—and to a lesser extent—milk iterations of chocolate.
With a countenance that can best be described as ‘hot pink’ and a taste that has a hint of fruity notes coupled with a tart finish, ruby chocolate made its brazen presence felt as the ‘fourth’ and newest kind of chocolate. Introduced by Barry Callebaut, a Belgian-Swiss cocoa company, the chocolate is made from the ruby cocoa bean. Found in Brazil, Ecuador and the Ivory Coast, ruby beans are existing botanical cocoa bean varieties that have been identified as having the right attributes to be processed into ruby chocolate. And these attributes include an all-natural darkish pink colour and a unique berry-like taste, sans any added artificial colouring or flavouring agents. 
Interestingly, ruby chocolate was only made available for sale to consumers in January this year, when it was introduced in Japan and South Korea with the limited-edition ruby Kit Kat bar. Similarly, in India, Fabelle, the luxury chocolate brand from ITC has recently announced a limited run of just 1,800 boxes of its ruby gianduja where the pink-hued chocolate is combined with a ganache made with Turkish hazelnuts. 

(This column first appeared in the 18th November 2018 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 8)

A-N-A-T-O-M-I-Z-E: Chocolate Shooter

By Raul Dias

It’s a bone-numbingly chilly day in Antwerp, Belgium and there’s a palpable sense of nervousness and apprehension building up in the room. All this, as a bunch of us line up for our first…well, line! My feeble protests that it’s my very first time ‘shooting up’ fall on deaf ears. My initiator into the world of ‘nasal pleasure’ pays no attention to my agitated state of mind and thrusts the tiny plexiglass apparatus in front of my reluctant nose.
On his count of “three”, I hear the gentle vibrating sound of a released spring. “Sniff!” I’m told, and I do just that, albeit hesitatingly. The bitter-smelling powder travels up my nasal canal, invading secret olfactory places hitherto unconquered. Suddenly, my palate is exploding with the multitude of sensations and flavours dancing on it. I can taste cocoa, vanilla and ginger at the back of my throat. Separately at first, and then all at the same time. My initiation is complete…
Now, before you begin to get any ideas about my rather graphic debut experiment of ‘snorting up’ as it were, let me set the record straight. I was merely indulging in the coolest chocolate sensation to invade Belgium, the chocolate capital of the world—The Chocolate Shooter at the famous chocolate shop The Chocolate Line by master chocolatiere Dominique Persoone.
Apparently, this tiny spring-triggered contraption is what one uses to snort up powdered flavoured cocoa for the ultimate theobromine-induced high. All this, thanks to recent research that has shown us how important our nose is when tasting food. Hence, the guys at this Belgian chocolate institution came up with the idea of allowing it to enjoy a chocolate ‘tasting’ of its own. And according to them, sniffing cocoa with raspberry or ginger and mint will help enhance the pleasure of the chocolate experience.
And there couldn’t have been a more apt and opportune time to launch this bizarre, yet innovative contraption than a few years ago at the birthday celebrations of one of the most notorious rock bands—The Rolling Stones! At first, only available to try and buy at the store’s Antwerp and Bruges branches, The Chocolate Shooter can now be bought online as well.

(This column first appeared in the 10th June 2018 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 8 http://www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/tp-features/tp-sundaymagazine/chocolate-shooter/article24125692.ece)

A-N-A-T-O-M-I-Z-E: Onion and Garlic Kheer with Truffle Oil

By Raul Dias

I’ve always been a wee bit sceptical of dishes with come to the table with a neat little memo denoting their very own ‘nutritional facts’ as it were. My mantra has always been— “I’ll ask no questions, so please don’t give me the answers!”. But this time, as the server dutifully placed the white bowl in front of me, there was no mental ‘tut-tutting’. “I have brought this upon myself”, I silently remined myself as I had my first tentative taste of the bowl’s contents.
I had, after all, checked myself in for a gruelling birthday weekend of detox, exercise and more…at the fecund Atmantan—an integrated wellness destination that sits by the tranquil Mulshi Lake, a short one hour drive away from Pune, in Maharashtra’s lush Sahyadri Mountain range. After a two day rigourous exercise and diet programme, I was looking forward to the ‘treat’ that Chef Ajit Singh of the resort’s pastry department (oxymoron, anyone?) had in store for the dairy lover in me.
Putting a slightly savoury spin on a traditional kheer, the chef makes this one from a thinly sliced white onion and chopped garlic—in lieu of rice—that are gently simmered in low fat milk for hours. This is then sweetened with stevia and finished off with a drizzle of truffle-infused extra virgin olive oil, with an edible flower delicately placed atop the concoction.
While I have, in the past, heard about savoury Indian desserts such as a halwa made with meat and a barfi made with black garlic, this delicious onion and garlic kheer was my very first tryst with treading that fine line between sweet and savoury. And what a treat that turned out to be.
The motivation behind the genesis of this dessert, the chef says, was to create something unfamiliar, using unused ingredients in desserts, and in keeping with the resort’s philosophy of promoting super foods.
Well, I for one am not complaining!

(This column first appeared in the 28th May 2017 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 8 http://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/food/onion-and-garlic-kheer-with-truffle-oil/article18584555.ece)

For The Food Of Love

Named after Aphrodite, the Greek Goddess of love and beauty, aphrodisiacs have been titillating our taste buds and pleasing our palates for centuries. Raul Dias lists eight such super foods, each imbued with legendary libido-boosting properties to get you into the mood. Well, it is the month of love, after all. Isn’t it?

AVOCADO
The truism “we eat with our eyes!” was probably coined keeping the sensually-shaped South American wonder fruit—avocado in mind. The soft, greenish-yellow, buttery flesh, ensconced in a rough dark green shell has garnered the reputation of being an aphrodisiac, extending back to ancient Aztec times. In fact, the Aztecs called the avocado tree “Ahuacuatl,” which translates to “testicle tree.” Modern science however, has proven that the fruit’s high levels of Vitamin E could help keep the spark alive because of its role in maintaining “youthful vigor and energy levels.” We rest our case.

Try it out here: Chilli Tossed Tuna Poke with Cubed Avocado at Toast & Tonic, Bengaluru

BANANA
Never mind what they remind you of. That would be stating the very obvious! Not only do these, naughtily-shaped bad boys come packed with bromelain, an enzyme that triggers testosterone production, but the fruit’s potassium and Vitamin B are said to elevate energy levels. However, experts believe that expecting one banana to bolster things immediately, is a tad unrealistic and that they should be eaten as part of a healthy diet to work their magic. Go on, what are you waiting for!?

Try it out here: Pearl Millet and Oat Flapjacks with Bananas, Salted Peanuts and Jaggery Caramel at 212 All Good, Mumbai

ASPARAGUS
Once again, analogies to the very obvious phallic shape of the asparagus spears are unavoidable, making it another ‘deserving’ candidate on a list like this. And just like Avocado, Asparagus is also a good source of Vitamin E, which is involved in stimulating the production of sex hormones. It also increases circulation in the genitourinary system, leading to increased sexual desire. So, should one opt for the green asparagus or the more exotic white variety? How about both? Remember, love is colour blind!

Try it out here: Miso-Glazed Chilean Seabass on a bed of Asparagus at Theory, Mumbai

CHOCOLATE
While there’s no disputing chocolate’s rankings on the popularity charts for its sheer luscious taste and sensuous mouth feel, there’s more to it than what’s apparent! It contains the chemicals anandamide and phenylethylamine (PEA), which boost serotonin levels—the feel-good hormone. Yes, that’s the very same hormone your body releases during sex. Interestingly, more than any other variety, it is the inky, cocoa-rich dark chocolate that has been shown to cause a spike in dopamine, which induces feelings of pleasure. And we have just the right one for you…

Try it out here: Sensual Bitter Chocolate Cake at The Claridges, New Delhi

COFFEE
To many, the inclusion on coffee on a list like this might seem a wee bit out of place. But the caffeine in coffee is actually a stimulant that ups the heart rate and makes the blood flow. And we all know how important blood flow is to the vital parts in question here! In fact, legend has it that Turkish people claimed coffee to be an aphrodisiac and husbands kept their wives well supplied. If the husband refused, it was a legitimate cause for a wife to divorce him. ‘nuff said!

Try it out here: The Oh! Sweet Ninja Coffee Cocktail with Vodka, Kahlua, and an Espresso Shot at Shiro, Bengaluru

HONEY
Ever looked up the etymology of the word ‘Honeymoon’? This post-marriage love vacation apparently gets its name from mead, an alcoholic beverage made from honey that was traditionally given to the new bride and groom to drink on their wedding night. Honey is packed with Vitamin B and boron, which helps regulate estrogen and testosterone levels and provides a natural energy boost. Even Hippocrates is believed to have prescribed honey for sexual vigour. Well, in that case…

Try it out here: Honey Flan with Figs at The Clearing House, Mumbai

OYSTERS
Who’d imagine these ultra-unappetising looking molluscs held a hidden secret within their rock-like shells? High in zinc, oysters have a reputation for being great for love and fertility. Researchers recently found that oysters contain amino acids that trigger production of sex hormones. The briny liquid that accompanies the critter is also said to boost the libido like no other elixir can. Viagra of the sea, anyone?

Try it out here: Broiled Oysters and Choriz in a Ponzu Sauce at The Fatty Bao, New Delhi

WATERMELON
What? That innocuous summertime refreshing thirst quencher! An aphrodisiac? Clearly, we’ve saved the most surprising candidate for last. According to a recent study, this lycopene- and citrulline-rich fruit may have a Viagra-like effect on the body, as it relaxes blood vessels and improves circulation.

Try it out here: Asian Watermelon Pop Salad at Shizusan, Pune

(A shorter, edited version of this article first appeared in the February 2017 issue of Hi!Blitz Magazine, India)