The Progressive Menu—Swiss Style!

From playing host to mainland Europe’s only tea plantation to having the world’s first vegetarian ‘butcher’ and a chocolate factory manned by a single person, Switzerland is full of some of the unlikeliest of culinary surprises that make up the perfect progressive dining menu.    

By Raul Dias

I distinctly remember my very first encounter with the term “progressive dining”. It was a decade ago—after a sweltering hot April day spent traipsing around Bangkok’s shopping malls—that my local friends suggested an encore. But with a foodie twist. What they proposed was a jaunt across the bustling megalopolis where we’d have drinks at one place, appetisers at another, mains at a 1 Michelin-starred restaurant on the other side of the Chao Phraya River and end with a movable (quite literally!) dessert feast at Bangkok’s coolest new ice cream truck in the backpacker haven of Khao San Road.
Born in the US of the late 1980s as a sort of dining scene hybrid of the 70s potluck dinner and known  multifariously as a “safari supper” and a “round-robin”, a progressive dinner originally involved successive courses prepared and eaten at the residences of different hosts in the same area. And while my 2009 version had ‘progressed’ to involve different neighbourhoods in the same city, it’s safe to say that my recent 2019 upgraded Swiss iteration of the term involved something a tad different…  

  

Course I
Wine with Chips, perhaps?
With a legacy that stretches back to the 14^th Century, Domaine Zweifel is a winery that’s unlike any other I had ever visited. For one, it is located in the Limmat Valley just outside the city of Zurich in Zurich-Höngg, a short 15-minutes bus ride away from the city’s main train station. And though it isn’t surprising that Zurich is the largest wine producing area in eastern Switzerland, it is almost unfathomable to have a full-fledged vineyard so close to the city center. The family firm not only makes some truly fine-tasting, easy-on-the palate wines like the smoky Räuschling and the refreshing and light Pinot Gris but is also the producer of Zweifel, Switzerland’s number one brand of potato chips. The slightly spicy paprika flavoured one making for the perfect amuse-bouche when paired with their crisp Sauvignon Blanc.    

Course II
A Starters and Mains Veggie Wonderland
Having never heard of products like ‘Facon’ and ‘Noix Gras’ before, I lost my mock meat virginity at what is claimed to be the world’s first veggie butcher aka. the Hiltl Shop along Zurich’s St. Annagasse street. Chomping down on a fat piece of ‘bacon’ made from tempeh which is a fermented soy bean mock meat and a sliver of melba toast topped with the hazelnut substitute for the goose liver foie gras, I tried hard to mediate the conflict my mind and taste buds were having a go at. Both imposters were that deceptively authentic tasting.
An all vegetarian meal of cumin-dusted roasted cauliflower soup and saffron gnocchi was what followed next door to the ‘butcher shop’ at its sister concern—Haus Hiltl on Sihlstrasse street. This Guinness World Records-certified restaurant is believed to be the world’s oldest vegetarian restaurant having opened its doors in 1898. And while I was told that it welcomes all sorts of diners—including callous carnivores like myself—it banishes away those with a propensity for wearing fur. ‘nuff said!      

Course III
A Chocolate Overdose
Imagine a place that is just like Willy Wonka’s magical factory, but one where Willy Wonka and his posse of Oompa Loompas all fuse into one single person. For dessert of all things chocolate, I headed down to Zurich’s Überlandstrasse street for the one man show that is Taucherli Chocolate. Be it the chief chocolate maker, innovator, packer, marketeer, or supplier, Kay Keusen is all that at this one-man-run artisan chocolaterie. With a tasting of everything from the brand’s roasted rapeseed and spicy Christmas special chocolate bars to the deliciously dark 77% chocolate lollies made from Colombian cocoa nibs, Taucherli Chocolate reinforced my belief that dessert is truly the best part of the meal.

Course IV
Holy Cheese!
For my cheese course, I found myself in the beautiful winter paradise of Engelberg a short two-hour train ride away from Zurich via Lucerne. Just like its name—Engelberg (“angel mountain” in German)—almost everything in this tiny little Alpine town revolves around an angel who was said to have appeared in the dream of Duke Conrad von Sellenbüren in 1120 directing him to construct a monastery in the village. And today, nestled in the shadow of the mighty Titlis mountain, it is the attached cheese factory that is drawing in cheese aficionados by the droves. The show cheese factory is a rather unique one in that it is the only Swiss cheese factory located in a monastery and the only one that can produce the famous Engelberger Klosterglocke soft cream cheese that takes its trademarked bell shape from the monastery’s bell.

Course V
Tranquili‘Tea’…
Given my predilection for a nice post-prandial cup of green tea, I set off to the town of Ascona in the Italian-speaking canton of Ticino to get my fix. Now, while Switzerland might seem like the unlikeliest of places to have its own tea plantation, Monte Verità that looms above Ascona has its own story to tell. Once the spot where revolutionists, artists and philosophers used to experiment new ways of life, Monte Verità or “The Mountain of Truth” is also the place that has mainland Europe’s only tea plantation. It was here at the very end of the “Il sentiero del tè” tea path, surrounded by the lush tea bushes that I got my share of the refreshing sen-cha green tea at a quaint little Japanese tea hut in a traditional tea ceremony that made me believe that I was more in Sapporo than Switzerland!  

Travel log

Getting There
There are daily direct flights from India to Zurich on Swiss International Airlines. From Zurich, the extensive network of Swiss Railways gets you to both Engelberg and Ascona—or just about anywhere in the country—in luxury and comfort. Getting a Swiss Travel Pass before leaving for Switzerland is a great idea, as it includes unlimited travel on various modes of transport such as trains, trams, buses, cable cars, funiculars and boats. As a bonus, you also get free admission to more than 500 museums throughout Switzerland.

Stay
Though on the expensive side, Zurich has an excellent selection of hotels to choose from. Two such recommended accommodation options are the super trendy, city-centered Marktgasse Hotel Zürich (Rs 21,200 for two with breakfast, marktgassehotel.ch) and the more luxurious, art-filled The Dolder Grand Hotel (Rs 38,900 for two with breakfast, thedoldergrand.com) that’s a little out of the main Zurich commercial zone, but worth the trek!

Tip
* Why not bathe above Zurich’s rooftops? Sign yourselves up for a rooftop bathing experience at the Thermalbad & Spa Zurich amid the century-old stone vaults of the former brewery. Fresh thermal water bubbling straight from Zurich’s hot springs helps you catch up with some much-needed R&R (thermalbad-zuerich.ch).

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 3rd August 2019 issue of The Hindu Business Line newspaper's BLink section on page 21 https://www.thehindubusinessline.com/blink/takeaway/progressive-dining-in-switzerland/article28793834.ece?fbclid=IwAR0ksRMPhN19a2w0OxUtcyGOL0lip7Vv4g46dTzAFEHYDqt3u3vZpyYH5RI)

Zurich in Style!

A vibrant, stylish city that lies on the shores of the meandering River Limmat, Zurich has a lot to offer the sybaritic traveller. Raul Dias draws up the perfect itinerary for a short, luxurious stay in the financial capital of Switzerland.

By Raul Dias

Although I’ve been to Zurich several times—for both work and pleasure—I’ve never really had the chance to let the city truly show me what it was all about. A quick layover here or a passing through lunch there was all I had ever experienced of this Swiss city that deserved a lot more attention than I was giving it.
So, on my last trip to Switzerland, I decided to slow down and factor in three days to savour Zurich and all it had to offer me. Veering away from the typically touristy clichés, my itinerary was all about seeing the city from a fresh perspective. One where food, wine and living the good life trumped the rest.

Lunch at Haus Hiltl
According to the Guinness World Records, Haus Hiltl was the first vegetarian restaurant in the world. The restaurant—which is named for its founder, Ambrosius Hiltl—has been serving vegetarians and non-vegetarians alike with meat-free culinary specialties from all over the world since 1898. When here, make sure to try the cumin-dusted roasted cauliflower soup and the aromatic saffron gnocchi…and thank me later! (www.hiltl.ch)

Go on a walking tour
Take a private, guided walking tour of Zurich’s old quarter and come face to face with the city’s past and present through a selection of buildings, stories and anecdotes. You too will be fascinated by the rich testimonies to bygone days which document the early international significance of the city, as I was. And after your tour, why not stop by the Kunsthaus Zürich which houses the most important collection of Classical Modernism in Zurich? (www.zuerich.com)

Bathe above Zurich’s rooftops!
Confused? Well, I’m talking about the experience of bathing on the rooftop at the Thermalbad & Spa Zurich amid the century-old stone vaults of the former brewery. Fresh thermal water bubbling straight from Zurich’s hot springs helps you catch up with some much-needed R&R. Here you have the choice of a thermal bathing world or the Irish-Roman spa ritual—both of which invite you to sink into a world of wellness inside the unique architecture and matchless building structure of a very special place in the city. (www.thermalbad-zuerich.ch)

Wine tasting at Zweifel Wine
Located in the Höngg area of Zurich, this family-run winery can trace its roots as far back as the 14th century. Today it produces spectacular wines from its own vineyards in the city, the Limmat Valley, and the “Gold Coast” region along Lake Zurich. (www.zweifel1898.ch)

Go chocolate crazy
Chase all that wine with another icon of Switzerland—chocolate…but with a little twist! The one man show that is Taucherli Chocolate is a super innovative place to see how Swiss chocolate making has evolved. Take a bite off founder and sole employee (yes, you read right!) Kay Keusen’s deliciously dark 77% chocolate bar made from Colombian cocoa nibs or his truly unique ruby chocolate and roasted rapeseed milk chocolate bars. Pure, undiluted bliss.
Did you know?
The average person in Switzerland consumes about 9.9kg of chocolate per year which surpasses every other country in the world!

Shop at Freitag
In a building in Zurich-West, namely that of the former Maag cogwheel factory, the Freitag brothers produce over 120,000 bags and accessories every year from recycled materials taken from the streets. Read: used, exhaust-stained truck tarpaulins, the inner tubes of bicycle tires, old safety belts and air-bags. All this is transformed into unique items—trendy, functional, waterproof and robust. In fact, it was Zurich-West itself that inspired the Freitag brothers to make bags out of truck tarpaulins in the first place, thanks to the colourful trucks that trundle through the district on the transit route every day. (www.freitag.ch)

Have dinner at Clouds
End your Zurich trip in style and up in the clouds, well almost! A few yards away from the Freitag store, Restaurant Clouds is located 120 meters above the city as it sits atop Prime Tower, Switzerland’s tallest building. Here the dining experience extends far beyond that of a fine dining restaurant, with a bistro and a bar promising spectacular views of the city, Lake Zürich, and the Alps at sunset. The scrumptious cuisine here is primarily Mediterranean, inspired by Catalonia. (www.clouds.ch)

FACT FILE

Getting There
There are daily direct flights from India to Zurich, Switzerland on a world-class airline such as Swiss International Airlines. From Zurich, the extensive network of Swiss Railways gets you just about anywhere in luxury and comfort. Visit www.swiss.com for more information.

When to Visit
A great all-year-round destination, Switzerland is equally wonderful in the spring and summer months from May to September—when one can enjoy hiking in the lush hills and mountains—as it is in winter from December to March when the ski season transforms the country into a snow-covered winter wonderland. Visit www.swissinfo.ch for more information.

Accommodation
Zurich has an excellent selection of hotels to choose from to suit all budgets and tastes. Two such recommended accommodation options are:
* Marktgasse Hotel Zürich (www.marktgassehotel.ch)
* The Dolder Grand Hotel (www.thedoldergrand.com)

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 8th June 2019 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Saturday Great Escapes section on page 24 https://www.freepressjournal.in/travel/what-stylish-zurich-has-to-offer)

Notes from the World’s Oldest Vegetarian Restaurant

By Raul Dias

Ever the sceptic when it comes to anything remotely “record-worthy” within the realm of one of my life’s greatest passions i.e. food (coupled with my callously carnivorous proclivity!), I really wasn’t looking forward to my very first meal in Zurich, Switzerland. My friend and local Indian culinary guru, Ity Tiwari had all but dragooned me into a pure vegetarian lunch at Haus Hiltl.
A veritable Zurich institution, Hiltl, as it is more commonly known as today, is believed to be the world’s oldest vegetarian restaurant, having been founded in 1898. The stately-looking restaurant, perched on the city’s crowded Sihlstrasse street, even has a shiny plaque from the people at the Guinness World Records to corroborate this claim.
Coming from a country like India, it seemed rather strange for me to see such a title bestowed on a restaurant in Switzerland of all places. For here, no meal in general is complete without a serving of a hunk of meat with some potatoes and the ubiquitous cheese on the side. But some quick, on-the-spot research confirmed this as being very much the case. And so, I soldiered on, tucking into my yummy cumin-dusted roasted cauliflower soup and saffron gnocchi, while a few interesting morsels of Hiltl trivia served as accompaniments!

Born of Necessity
Founded by a family of German immigrants in 1898, and originally called Vegetaria, the restaurant was a boarding house for vegetarians with a small attached café. But thanks to the concept of vegetarianism being virtually non-existent in Switzerland at that time, with vegetarians even mocked as ‘grazers’, the erstwhile establishment didn’t have much success.
It was only a few years later in 1904 when a Bavarian tailor named Ambrosius Hiltl was rendered jobless due to rheumatoid arthritis, did he take over the restaurant and rename it Haus Hiltl, after he was prescribed an all-vegetarian diet by his doctor. Not only was Ambrosius cured of his affliction, but his restaurant was looked upon as a novelty to which scores of locals flocked, making it an overnight success. Something that it enjoys to this very day thanks to its famous pay-by-weight vegetarian buffet that’s a rage with Zurich’s hipster brigade.
And today, as an annexe, it even has the world’s first “vegi butcher” called the Hiltl Shop on the adjacent St. Annagasse street. Here is where one can stock up on everything from all-vegan mock meats like seitan and tempeh—where the former is made from wheat gluten, while the latter from fermented soybeans—to the wacky ‘noix gras’ hazelnut stand in for the controversial goose liver foie gras.

The Indian Connection
But talk of India and its rich vegetarian influence on Hiltl seemed inevitable as I was taken on a short, post-prandial tour of the gargantuan, three-levelled restaurant and shown the photograph of India’s late former prime minister Morarji Desai relishing a plate of pakoras at the restaurant. It was Ambrosius’s daughter-in-law Margrith, who, in the 1950s, introduced recipes and elements from Indian cuisine into Hiltl’s repertoire.
Understandably, at first it was mainly the Indian guests who responded with enthusiasm, but over time they were joined by more and more locals. The art of Indian cooking remains a major element of Hiltl with their channa masala being the top seller and a personal favourite of Rolf Hiltl, the fourth generation Hiltl who runs the restaurant today. “I have an affinity to Indian cuisine, due to our family and company history, and because of its wide variety of spices,” says the Hiltl great-grandson who caused quite a stir in 1993 when he introduced alcoholic beverages to the menu for the first time. But the Hiltl’s adherence to vegetarianism is non-negotiable and so strong that it is rumoured that they are even known to deny entry to those wearing fur. ‘nuff said!       
The Mumbai-based writer and restaurant reviewer is passionate about food, travel and luxury, not necessarily in that order.

(This article first appeared in the 19th May 2019 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 27 https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/travel/notes-from-haus-hiltl/article27160593.ece)