From playing host to mainland Europe’s
only tea plantation to having the world’s first vegetarian ‘butcher’ and a
chocolate factory manned by a single person, Switzerland is full of some of the
unlikeliest of culinary surprises that make up the perfect progressive dining menu.
By Raul Dias
I distinctly remember my
very first encounter with the term “progressive dining”. It was a decade ago—after
a sweltering hot April day spent traipsing around Bangkok’s shopping malls—that
my local friends suggested an encore. But with a foodie twist. What they
proposed was a jaunt across the bustling megalopolis where we’d have drinks at
one place, appetisers at another, mains at a 1 Michelin-starred restaurant on
the other side of the Chao Phraya River and end with a movable (quite
literally!) dessert feast at Bangkok’s coolest new ice cream truck in the
backpacker haven of Khao San Road.
Born in the US of the late 1980s as a sort of dining scene hybrid of the 70s potluck dinner and known multifariously as a “safari supper” and a “round-robin”, a progressive dinner originally involved successive courses prepared and eaten at the residences of different hosts in the same area. And while my 2009 version had ‘progressed’ to involve different neighbourhoods in the same city, it’s safe to say that my recent 2019 upgraded Swiss iteration of the term involved something a tad different…
Born in the US of the late 1980s as a sort of dining scene hybrid of the 70s potluck dinner and known multifariously as a “safari supper” and a “round-robin”, a progressive dinner originally involved successive courses prepared and eaten at the residences of different hosts in the same area. And while my 2009 version had ‘progressed’ to involve different neighbourhoods in the same city, it’s safe to say that my recent 2019 upgraded Swiss iteration of the term involved something a tad different…
Course I
Wine with Chips, perhaps?
With a legacy that stretches back to the 14th Century, Domaine Zweifel is a winery that’s unlike any other I had ever visited. For one, it is located in the Limmat Valley just outside the city of Zurich in Zurich-Höngg, a short 15-minutes bus ride away from the city’s main train station. And though it isn’t surprising that Zurich is the largest wine producing area in eastern Switzerland, it is almost unfathomable to have a full-fledged vineyard so close to the city center. The family firm not only makes some truly fine-tasting, easy-on-the palate wines like the smoky Räuschling and the refreshing and light Pinot Gris but is also the producer of Zweifel, Switzerland’s number one brand of potato chips. The slightly spicy paprika flavoured one making for the perfect amuse-bouche when paired with their crisp Sauvignon Blanc.
Wine with Chips, perhaps?
With a legacy that stretches back to the 14th Century, Domaine Zweifel is a winery that’s unlike any other I had ever visited. For one, it is located in the Limmat Valley just outside the city of Zurich in Zurich-Höngg, a short 15-minutes bus ride away from the city’s main train station. And though it isn’t surprising that Zurich is the largest wine producing area in eastern Switzerland, it is almost unfathomable to have a full-fledged vineyard so close to the city center. The family firm not only makes some truly fine-tasting, easy-on-the palate wines like the smoky Räuschling and the refreshing and light Pinot Gris but is also the producer of Zweifel, Switzerland’s number one brand of potato chips. The slightly spicy paprika flavoured one making for the perfect amuse-bouche when paired with their crisp Sauvignon Blanc.
Course II
A Starters and Mains Veggie Wonderland
Having never heard of products like ‘Facon’ and ‘Noix Gras’ before, I lost my mock meat virginity at what is claimed to be the world’s first veggie butcher aka. the Hiltl Shop along Zurich’s St. Annagasse street. Chomping down on a fat piece of ‘bacon’ made from tempeh which is a fermented soy bean mock meat and a sliver of melba toast topped with the hazelnut substitute for the goose liver foie gras, I tried hard to mediate the conflict my mind and taste buds were having a go at. Both imposters were that deceptively authentic tasting.
An all vegetarian meal of cumin-dusted roasted cauliflower soup and saffron gnocchi was what followed next door to the ‘butcher shop’ at its sister concern—Haus Hiltl on Sihlstrasse street. This Guinness World Records-certified restaurant is believed to be the world’s oldest vegetarian restaurant having opened its doors in 1898. And while I was told that it welcomes all sorts of diners—including callous carnivores like myself—it banishes away those with a propensity for wearing fur. ‘nuff said!
A Starters and Mains Veggie Wonderland
Having never heard of products like ‘Facon’ and ‘Noix Gras’ before, I lost my mock meat virginity at what is claimed to be the world’s first veggie butcher aka. the Hiltl Shop along Zurich’s St. Annagasse street. Chomping down on a fat piece of ‘bacon’ made from tempeh which is a fermented soy bean mock meat and a sliver of melba toast topped with the hazelnut substitute for the goose liver foie gras, I tried hard to mediate the conflict my mind and taste buds were having a go at. Both imposters were that deceptively authentic tasting.
An all vegetarian meal of cumin-dusted roasted cauliflower soup and saffron gnocchi was what followed next door to the ‘butcher shop’ at its sister concern—Haus Hiltl on Sihlstrasse street. This Guinness World Records-certified restaurant is believed to be the world’s oldest vegetarian restaurant having opened its doors in 1898. And while I was told that it welcomes all sorts of diners—including callous carnivores like myself—it banishes away those with a propensity for wearing fur. ‘nuff said!
Course III
A Chocolate Overdose
Imagine a place that is just like Willy Wonka’s magical factory, but one where Willy Wonka and his posse of Oompa Loompas all fuse into one single person. For dessert of all things chocolate, I headed down to Zurich’s Überlandstrasse street for the one man show that is Taucherli Chocolate. Be it the chief chocolate maker, innovator, packer, marketeer, or supplier, Kay Keusen is all that at this one-man-run artisan chocolaterie. With a tasting of everything from the brand’s roasted rapeseed and spicy Christmas special chocolate bars to the deliciously dark 77% chocolate lollies made from Colombian cocoa nibs, Taucherli Chocolate reinforced my belief that dessert is truly the best part of the meal.
A Chocolate Overdose
Imagine a place that is just like Willy Wonka’s magical factory, but one where Willy Wonka and his posse of Oompa Loompas all fuse into one single person. For dessert of all things chocolate, I headed down to Zurich’s Überlandstrasse street for the one man show that is Taucherli Chocolate. Be it the chief chocolate maker, innovator, packer, marketeer, or supplier, Kay Keusen is all that at this one-man-run artisan chocolaterie. With a tasting of everything from the brand’s roasted rapeseed and spicy Christmas special chocolate bars to the deliciously dark 77% chocolate lollies made from Colombian cocoa nibs, Taucherli Chocolate reinforced my belief that dessert is truly the best part of the meal.
Course IV
Holy Cheese!
For my cheese course, I found myself in the beautiful winter paradise of Engelberg a short two-hour train ride away from Zurich via Lucerne. Just like its name—Engelberg (“angel mountain” in German)—almost everything in this tiny little Alpine town revolves around an angel who was said to have appeared in the dream of Duke Conrad von Sellenbüren in 1120 directing him to construct a monastery in the village. And today, nestled in the shadow of the mighty Titlis mountain, it is the attached cheese factory that is drawing in cheese aficionados by the droves. The show cheese factory is a rather unique one in that it is the only Swiss cheese factory located in a monastery and the only one that can produce the famous Engelberger Klosterglocke soft cream cheese that takes its trademarked bell shape from the monastery’s bell.
Holy Cheese!
For my cheese course, I found myself in the beautiful winter paradise of Engelberg a short two-hour train ride away from Zurich via Lucerne. Just like its name—Engelberg (“angel mountain” in German)—almost everything in this tiny little Alpine town revolves around an angel who was said to have appeared in the dream of Duke Conrad von Sellenbüren in 1120 directing him to construct a monastery in the village. And today, nestled in the shadow of the mighty Titlis mountain, it is the attached cheese factory that is drawing in cheese aficionados by the droves. The show cheese factory is a rather unique one in that it is the only Swiss cheese factory located in a monastery and the only one that can produce the famous Engelberger Klosterglocke soft cream cheese that takes its trademarked bell shape from the monastery’s bell.
Course V
Tranquili‘Tea’…
Given my predilection for a nice post-prandial cup of green tea, I set off to the town of Ascona in the Italian-speaking canton of Ticino to get my fix. Now, while Switzerland might seem like the unlikeliest of places to have its own tea plantation, Monte Verità that looms above Ascona has its own story to tell. Once the spot where revolutionists, artists and philosophers used to experiment new ways of life, Monte Verità or “The Mountain of Truth” is also the place that has mainland Europe’s only tea plantation. It was here at the very end of the “Il sentiero del tè” tea path, surrounded by the lush tea bushes that I got my share of the refreshing sen-cha green tea at a quaint little Japanese tea hut in a traditional tea ceremony that made me believe that I was more in Sapporo than Switzerland!
Tranquili‘Tea’…
Given my predilection for a nice post-prandial cup of green tea, I set off to the town of Ascona in the Italian-speaking canton of Ticino to get my fix. Now, while Switzerland might seem like the unlikeliest of places to have its own tea plantation, Monte Verità that looms above Ascona has its own story to tell. Once the spot where revolutionists, artists and philosophers used to experiment new ways of life, Monte Verità or “The Mountain of Truth” is also the place that has mainland Europe’s only tea plantation. It was here at the very end of the “Il sentiero del tè” tea path, surrounded by the lush tea bushes that I got my share of the refreshing sen-cha green tea at a quaint little Japanese tea hut in a traditional tea ceremony that made me believe that I was more in Sapporo than Switzerland!
Travel
log
Getting There
There are daily direct flights from India to Zurich on Swiss International Airlines. From Zurich, the extensive network of Swiss Railways gets you to both Engelberg and Ascona—or just about anywhere in the country—in luxury and comfort. Getting a Swiss Travel Pass before leaving for Switzerland is a great idea, as it includes unlimited travel on various modes of transport such as trains, trams, buses, cable cars, funiculars and boats. As a bonus, you also get free admission to more than 500 museums throughout Switzerland.
Stay
Though on the expensive side, Zurich has an excellent selection of hotels to choose from. Two such recommended accommodation options are the super trendy, city-centered Marktgasse Hotel Zürich (Rs 21,200 for two with breakfast, marktgassehotel.ch) and the more luxurious, art-filled The Dolder Grand Hotel (Rs 38,900 for two with breakfast, thedoldergrand.com) that’s a little out of the main Zurich commercial zone, but worth the trek!
Though on the expensive side, Zurich has an excellent selection of hotels to choose from. Two such recommended accommodation options are the super trendy, city-centered Marktgasse Hotel Zürich (Rs 21,200 for two with breakfast, marktgassehotel.ch) and the more luxurious, art-filled The Dolder Grand Hotel (Rs 38,900 for two with breakfast, thedoldergrand.com) that’s a little out of the main Zurich commercial zone, but worth the trek!
Tip
* Why not bathe above Zurich’s rooftops? Sign yourselves up for a rooftop bathing experience at the Thermalbad & Spa Zurich amid the century-old stone vaults of the former brewery. Fresh thermal water bubbling straight from Zurich’s hot springs helps you catch up with some much-needed R&R (thermalbad-zuerich.ch).
* Why not bathe above Zurich’s rooftops? Sign yourselves up for a rooftop bathing experience at the Thermalbad & Spa Zurich amid the century-old stone vaults of the former brewery. Fresh thermal water bubbling straight from Zurich’s hot springs helps you catch up with some much-needed R&R (thermalbad-zuerich.ch).
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 3rd August 2019 issue of The Hindu Business Line newspaper's BLink section on page 21 https://www.thehindubusinessline.com/blink/takeaway/progressive-dining-in-switzerland/article28793834.ece?fbclid=IwAR0ksRMPhN19a2w0OxUtcyGOL0lip7Vv4g46dTzAFEHYDqt3u3vZpyYH5RI)
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