(This article first appeared online on 3rd January 2024 on Live Mint, India https://lifestyle.livemint.com/food/drink/butter-coffee-kopi-gu-you-singapore-111704274390701.html)
Showing posts with label COFFEE. Show all posts
Showing posts with label COFFEE. Show all posts
Wednesday, January 3, 2024
Wednesday, November 15, 2023
Ice Cream X Brand Collaborations
(This article first appeared online on 15th November 2023 on Live Mint, India https://lifestyle.livemint.com/food/discover/ice-cream-brand-collaborations-india-111700015846983.html)
Wednesday, September 13, 2023
Around India in Eight Coffee Shops
(This article first appeared online on 13th September 2023 in Mint Lounge, India https://lifestyle.livemint.com/food/drink/interesting-coffee-shops-india-111694537995059.html)
Wednesday, May 3, 2023
5 of London's Most Interesting Coffee Shops
https://lifestyle.livemint.com/food/discover/where-to-find-the-best-coffee-in-london-111683027447448.html)
Monday, June 27, 2022
Ca Phe Trung (egg coffee) at Café Giang
Thursday, May 19, 2022
12 Iconic Dishes You Must Eat On Hanoi's Streets
Friday, May 13, 2022
Notes From Vietnam
Friday, September 17, 2021
Gourmet To Go review
Friday, August 14, 2020
Idli do good
With a menu full of yummy, highly affordable idli iterations and other South Indian snacks, this new, vegetarian takeaway joint makes for a fun ‘tiffin’ time!
By Raul Dias
If there is one quotidian tradition we sorely miss about our earlier work stint in Chennai, then that would have to be the yummy, twice-daily repast called ‘tiffin’ in the local parlance. A short, mid-morning and teatime snack that is punctuated by strong filter coffee (but, of course!) and a smorgasbord of scrumptious treats. Often highlighted by a mindboggling variety of our favourite South Indian snack—the idli.
While there is no dearth of Udupi restaurants in Mumbai that try their best to satiate those basic idli cravings, it is the sheer lack of more local and regional idli iterations like the Kanchipuram and thatte idli that gets to us. The newly opened, all-veg Idli Didli Doo seeks to remedy that. And it does so with aplomb, offering over a dozen versions of the steamed rice cake—some traditional and a few that cheekily defy convention.
The menu here is so extensive that we feel the need to try it out on two separate occasions. We pick up the first order ourselves from the tiny Shivaji Park outlet. While the other, we call in a few days later via a food delivery service provider.
We start off with the thatte idli (Rs 65) that is a fluffy, quarter plate sized single idli that, just like all the other idli varieties on offer, is accompanied by a delicious, drumstick- and brinjal-redolent sambar and two fresh-tasting chutneys (coconut and tomato-chilly). The mustard seed and curry leaf-speckled Kanchipuram idli and the red-tinted ragi idli (both, Rs 65 for two), are equally scrumptious.
The bite sized mini rasam idli (Rs 65 for five), with the thin, lemony rasam, putting an interesting spin on the dish is perfect for a particularly rainy day along with a steaming shot of filter coffee (Rs 15 for a half cup). Seeing the rarely-found-in-Mumbai paniyaram (Rs 80 for six) on the menu, we could not help ordering a portion of the ball-shaped dumplings, that are also known as paddu in Karnataka, and made from idli batter in a specially indented griddle pan. The neer moru (Rs 40) is a refreshing, South Indian take on traditional chaas and a cooling antidote to the fiery tomato-chilly chutney that we dunk our crisp medu vada (Rs 55) into.
Wanting to go a little ‘off-piste’, we try the rather wacky Italian idli fry (Rs 105) that sees chopped up bits of regular idli tossed in a hot pan with a squirt of olive oil and served with a sprinkling of herbs like oregano and shavings of cheese. Carrying the experimental leitmotif a bit further, we try the chocolate idli waffle (Rs 155) that almost tastes like a sour buttermilk waffle, thanks to the tangy idli batter it is made with.
We end our eating marathon with a ghee-enriched bowl of the utterly satisfying kesari (Rs 55) also known as sheera to us Mumbaikars. This one is all good things a sweet send-off should be—memorable and more-ish. Just like our twin ‘tiffin’ sessions have been.
AT: Idli Didli Doo, Devkunj Bldg., Shivaji Park, Dadar (W).
TIME: 8am to 9pm
CALL: 9372463949
(An edited version of this review appeared in the 14th August 2020 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 17 https://m.mid-day.com/articles/time-for-tiffin/22934215)
Sunday, June 28, 2020
Notes from Hanoi
By Raul Dias
In the future, if pop culture historians were to ever dredge up the top social media trends that defined the ensuing Covid-19 worldwide lockdown, I can bet my last coffee bean that dalgona coffee would be right up there riding the crest. The creamy-headed beverage, itself, jostling for space with everything from banana bread and bad home haircuts to auto-tuned renditions of bella ciao.
And while the genesis of dalgona coffee is (erroneously!) attributed to both, a popular Korean caramel-coffee candy of the same name and to our very own, beaten to submission desi “phheti hui” coffee, its true origins lie in the Vietnamese capital of Hanoi in the guise of ca phe trung. Something I discovered on a trip to Vietnam a year ago. This, back in the good old days when I believed social distancing to be my private idiosyncrasy and when ‘Corona’ was still just another brand of beer!
Egged On
Lending a certain gravitas to the “necessity is the mother of invention” proverb, dalgona coffee’s egg-enriched predecessor ca phe trung was the canny invention of a Hanoian barista named Nguyen Van Giang in 1946 at his coffee shop called Café Giang. Relishing the thick, creamy and surprisingly non-eggy tasting hot coffee seated in the legendary café perched along Hanoi’s ‘Coffee Street’ aka. Trieu Viet Vuong in the historic Hai Ba Trung District, I got a crash course in all things ca phe trung, thanks to the chatty manager.
Apparently, a post WWII shortage of tinned condensed milk that went into the then-popular iced ca pe sua da, steered Giang in the direction of stiffly beaten egg yolks to provide a creamy heft and rich taste to the coffee beverage that he decided to serve hot. Thus, imbuing his brand-new coffee concoction with a sort of rich, Tiramisu-esque texture and taste. But unlike dalgona that has just the creamy layer sitting atop hot or cold milk, ca phe trung has a thick body all the way through, making it more of a hybrid hot dessert than drink. One that is best tackled with a spoon, not sipped.
Back Story
Akin to the coffee beverage version of a set of nesting Russian dolls, I was soon to learn that there was yet another story within the story related to how Vietnam’s obsession with condensed milk—both as the dairy and sweetener component—in regards to its coffee drinking experience came about. And it was the French colonialists that set the course.
After producing the easy to cultivate robusta variety of coffee beans in Da Lat in climatically suitable central Vietnam in the early 1900s, the French realised that milk was hard to come by. This was bacecause milk and other dairy products had never been a part of the Vietnamese diet. And still are not, to this day. To fill in this deficit, the French started to import tinned condensed milk which was first used in traditional French coffee preparations like café au lait and then in the more localised Vietnamese iterations that sprung forth.
Chain Reaction
Over my one week in the country, as I dove further into Vietnam’s coffee culture, I soon came to some interesting realisations. There is no ‘grab-and-go’ coffee shop concept here. People prefer to sit down at cafés and have leisurely, conversation-enhanced coffee drinking sessions. Despite being second only to the Brazilians in terms of coffee bean (both arabica and robusta) exports at an annual turnover of about $3.10 billion, the Vietnamese prefer the sharper, bitter flavour and higher caffeine content of the less popular robusta coffee beans for their personal consumption. And this is why the big international coffee chains like Starbucks and Gloria Jean’s Coffee—both of whom primarily use the milder arabica beans in their beverages—have failed miserably in the local market that is dominated by cheaper, more artisanal cafés.
And why not? It is in places like these, that are literally on every street corner in the big cities and small towns of Vietnam, that one can get a taste of even more experimental versions of coffee beverages. From a yogurt coffee to a hipster-chic avocado and banana smoothie-meets-frappe called sinh to ca phe chuoi bo, the variety on offer boggles the mid. Maybe even a dalgona, someday. If not already.
(This article first appeared in the 28th June 2020 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 8 https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/travel/notes-from-hanoi/article31922421.ece)
Tuesday, December 17, 2019
Short and Sweet
Exuding an easy, laid-back vibe with a menu featuring a few simple, yet delicious offerings, this tiny new Juhu café has a lot going for it.
By Raul Dias
We’ve always been firm believers that serendipitous discoveries are the best of their kind. And My Cafe, Juhu with its non-descript façade—further exacerbated by bare minimal signage—is just that kind of place. With no proper address or location available online, all we had to guide us to this brand-new café was a couple of pics taken by a colleague who’d chanced upon this charming, if a tad tiny, space a few days ago.
Cosily perched atop a dance studio and sitting cheek-by-jowl to a beauty salon in a bylane dominated by the iconic Prithvi Theatre and its equally famous and eponymous café, there’s a lot about this diminutive, three-table first-floor space that made us smile. Surrounded by potted plants and fairy lights, with comfortable bench-style seating, the almost-by-the-sea café is perfect for grabbing a late afternoon tea and snack.
Speaking of which, the menu here is a modest-sized one featuring a variety of short eats and mini meals along with a number of hot and cold beverages, including a range of teas and tisanes. Though they take a good half-an-hour post ordering to make an appearance at our table, our iced mocha (Rs 220) and fresh watermelon blossom mocktail (Rs 250) hit that sweet spot. While the former is imbued with the aroma and taste of freshly ground Arabica coffee beans with a swirl of chocolate sauce giving it some additional heft, the watermelon drink has a hint of tart cranberry that cuts through the melon’s sweetness perfectly.
Served with a small bowl of fried potato salli sticks, the duo of tomato-basil crostini (Rs 150) is generously portioned with meaty chunks of tomato and torn basil leaves. They taste scrumptious with the unexpected schmear of cream cheese applied to the toasted sourdough base in lieu of olive oil. Another open-faced preparation, i.e. the BBQ chicken subway sandwich (Rs 200) is the perfect blend of juicy morsels of roast chicken and onions, all enrobed in a tangy barbeque sauce sitting atop a huge focaccia bread slab.
Still peckish and craving something more substantial, we call for the recommended warm chicken burrito bowl (Rs 350). This turns out to be one of the best iterations of the Tex-Mex staple we’ve tried out in a very long time. With a toothsome base of plump red rice which is topped with loads of chicken, perfectly al dente kidney beans, yellow corn kernels and sweet bell peppers, all drizzled with a creamy cheese sauce, we know this one’s a winner with our very first bite.
Sadly, the over-spiced herbed baby potatoes with a yogurt dip (Rs 180) disappoint with the punishing, almost searing heat of fresh red chillies dominating every mouthful. Even the cooling hung curd dip does very little to calm things down. With just a single dessert of an outsourced (our server herself volunteered this information) chocolate brownie on the menu, coupled with the fact that it wasn’t even available that day, we decide to end things here a wee bit differently…with a spot of tea!
While we wish that we’d been served the milk on the side instead of it being premixed into the hot beverage, our final order of the fragrant and soothing lemongrass chai (Rs 120) is the perfect curtain call to an afternoon (and money!) well-spent.
AT: My Cafe, Jankidas House, 1st floor Janki Kutir, near Prithvi Theatre, Juhu.
TIME: 12 pm to 9 pm
CALL: 66756622/23
(An edited version of this review appeared in the 17th December 2019 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 22 https://m.mid-day.com/articles/short-and-sweet/22281162)
By Raul Dias
We’ve always been firm believers that serendipitous discoveries are the best of their kind. And My Cafe, Juhu with its non-descript façade—further exacerbated by bare minimal signage—is just that kind of place. With no proper address or location available online, all we had to guide us to this brand-new café was a couple of pics taken by a colleague who’d chanced upon this charming, if a tad tiny, space a few days ago.
Cosily perched atop a dance studio and sitting cheek-by-jowl to a beauty salon in a bylane dominated by the iconic Prithvi Theatre and its equally famous and eponymous café, there’s a lot about this diminutive, three-table first-floor space that made us smile. Surrounded by potted plants and fairy lights, with comfortable bench-style seating, the almost-by-the-sea café is perfect for grabbing a late afternoon tea and snack.
Speaking of which, the menu here is a modest-sized one featuring a variety of short eats and mini meals along with a number of hot and cold beverages, including a range of teas and tisanes. Though they take a good half-an-hour post ordering to make an appearance at our table, our iced mocha (Rs 220) and fresh watermelon blossom mocktail (Rs 250) hit that sweet spot. While the former is imbued with the aroma and taste of freshly ground Arabica coffee beans with a swirl of chocolate sauce giving it some additional heft, the watermelon drink has a hint of tart cranberry that cuts through the melon’s sweetness perfectly.
Served with a small bowl of fried potato salli sticks, the duo of tomato-basil crostini (Rs 150) is generously portioned with meaty chunks of tomato and torn basil leaves. They taste scrumptious with the unexpected schmear of cream cheese applied to the toasted sourdough base in lieu of olive oil. Another open-faced preparation, i.e. the BBQ chicken subway sandwich (Rs 200) is the perfect blend of juicy morsels of roast chicken and onions, all enrobed in a tangy barbeque sauce sitting atop a huge focaccia bread slab.
Still peckish and craving something more substantial, we call for the recommended warm chicken burrito bowl (Rs 350). This turns out to be one of the best iterations of the Tex-Mex staple we’ve tried out in a very long time. With a toothsome base of plump red rice which is topped with loads of chicken, perfectly al dente kidney beans, yellow corn kernels and sweet bell peppers, all drizzled with a creamy cheese sauce, we know this one’s a winner with our very first bite.
Sadly, the over-spiced herbed baby potatoes with a yogurt dip (Rs 180) disappoint with the punishing, almost searing heat of fresh red chillies dominating every mouthful. Even the cooling hung curd dip does very little to calm things down. With just a single dessert of an outsourced (our server herself volunteered this information) chocolate brownie on the menu, coupled with the fact that it wasn’t even available that day, we decide to end things here a wee bit differently…with a spot of tea!
While we wish that we’d been served the milk on the side instead of it being premixed into the hot beverage, our final order of the fragrant and soothing lemongrass chai (Rs 120) is the perfect curtain call to an afternoon (and money!) well-spent.
AT: My Cafe, Jankidas House, 1st floor Janki Kutir, near Prithvi Theatre, Juhu.
TIME: 12 pm to 9 pm
CALL: 66756622/23
(An edited version of this review appeared in the 17th December 2019 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 22 https://m.mid-day.com/articles/short-and-sweet/22281162)
Friday, November 29, 2019
Coffee and more…
Offering coffee aficionados a range of well-made bean to cup iterations of the beverage, this friendly neighbourhood coffee shop is great for those quick-fix, perk-me-up moments.
By Raul Dias
Sitting snugly sandwiched between a beauty salon and a grocery store on a restaurant-infested stretch like Bandra West’s busy 16th Road, it is very easy to miss Easy Cappuccino’s nondescript storefront at first. It’s only when one’s olfactory senses are treated to the aroma of freshly ground coffee beans, does this new coffee shop assert its presence.
Living up to the first part of its name, everything here is easy and relaxed. Mainly so thanks to its minimal, almost Scandi-chic interiors with plenty of blonde cedar wood and comfortable banquette style seating along one wall. Here one will find none of those in-your-face coffee shop décor tropes like sacks of coffee beans, quirky coffee quote posters etc. It makes up for this visual quietude with an intensely flavourful and robust coffee drinks’ selection of both the hot and cold varieties, along with a few food items.
We start off our inning here with a single shot of the punchy Americano (Rs 190) where the smoky roast of the Arabica bean is amply evident in every satisfying sip. We chase this with an Irish coffee (Rs 140) with a thick head of cream and imbued with the taste of (non-alcoholic) Irish Whiskey syrup. We also call for a frappuccino version of the Irish coffee (Rs 190) that is even better tasting in its cold avatar, coming to our table in a generously proportioned glass that’s filled to the brim with the blended drink.
Interestingly, none of this apparent generosity in portion size is reflected in the food items we sample. Though freshly made (we saw the counter staff whisking the batter) and scrumptious till the last crumb, the quartet of peanut butter topped pancake cassettes (Rs 100) are barely larger than a coin each and had us almost call for more. Restraining ourselves, we instead order a rather overpriced nasty Nutella (yes, that’s the name!) croissant (Rs 160), that’s once again woefully under-endowed, but buttery and soft to the taste. Bursting with the freshness of basil that complements the woodiness of the mushrooms perfectly, our only savoury order of the six-inch basil and mushroom pizza (Rs 195) makes for messy satisfaction.
Back to our afternoon’s raison d’etre i.e. coffee, the cappuccino (Rs 110)—that we request to be made with almond milk (Rs 70 extra)—is another winner with the barista managing to give it a thick foamy head, despite the presence of the notoriously-difficult-to-froth almond milk. We end our caffeine-dominated session with one of Easy Cappuccino’s non-coffee blended drinks in the form of a Jim Jam cheesecake biscuit shake (Rs 190) that takes us back down nostalgia lane when our school tiffin boxes would almost always have the jam-centered biscuits in them.
If like us, well-priced, honest-to-goodness coffee is your scene, then we’d suggest giving this place a whirl soon!
AT: Easy Cappuccino, Shop No. 6, Shiv Asthan Housing Society Ltd., 16th Road, Bandra West.
TIME: 7 am to 9 pm
CALL: 8657393549
By Raul Dias
Sitting snugly sandwiched between a beauty salon and a grocery store on a restaurant-infested stretch like Bandra West’s busy 16th Road, it is very easy to miss Easy Cappuccino’s nondescript storefront at first. It’s only when one’s olfactory senses are treated to the aroma of freshly ground coffee beans, does this new coffee shop assert its presence.
Living up to the first part of its name, everything here is easy and relaxed. Mainly so thanks to its minimal, almost Scandi-chic interiors with plenty of blonde cedar wood and comfortable banquette style seating along one wall. Here one will find none of those in-your-face coffee shop décor tropes like sacks of coffee beans, quirky coffee quote posters etc. It makes up for this visual quietude with an intensely flavourful and robust coffee drinks’ selection of both the hot and cold varieties, along with a few food items.
We start off our inning here with a single shot of the punchy Americano (Rs 190) where the smoky roast of the Arabica bean is amply evident in every satisfying sip. We chase this with an Irish coffee (Rs 140) with a thick head of cream and imbued with the taste of (non-alcoholic) Irish Whiskey syrup. We also call for a frappuccino version of the Irish coffee (Rs 190) that is even better tasting in its cold avatar, coming to our table in a generously proportioned glass that’s filled to the brim with the blended drink.
Interestingly, none of this apparent generosity in portion size is reflected in the food items we sample. Though freshly made (we saw the counter staff whisking the batter) and scrumptious till the last crumb, the quartet of peanut butter topped pancake cassettes (Rs 100) are barely larger than a coin each and had us almost call for more. Restraining ourselves, we instead order a rather overpriced nasty Nutella (yes, that’s the name!) croissant (Rs 160), that’s once again woefully under-endowed, but buttery and soft to the taste. Bursting with the freshness of basil that complements the woodiness of the mushrooms perfectly, our only savoury order of the six-inch basil and mushroom pizza (Rs 195) makes for messy satisfaction.
Back to our afternoon’s raison d’etre i.e. coffee, the cappuccino (Rs 110)—that we request to be made with almond milk (Rs 70 extra)—is another winner with the barista managing to give it a thick foamy head, despite the presence of the notoriously-difficult-to-froth almond milk. We end our caffeine-dominated session with one of Easy Cappuccino’s non-coffee blended drinks in the form of a Jim Jam cheesecake biscuit shake (Rs 190) that takes us back down nostalgia lane when our school tiffin boxes would almost always have the jam-centered biscuits in them.
If like us, well-priced, honest-to-goodness coffee is your scene, then we’d suggest giving this place a whirl soon!
AT: Easy Cappuccino, Shop No. 6, Shiv Asthan Housing Society Ltd., 16th Road, Bandra West.
TIME: 7 am to 9 pm
CALL: 8657393549
(An edited version of this review appeared in the 29th November 2019 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 25 https://m.mid-day.com/articles/full-of-beans/22178185)
Wednesday, November 20, 2019
Flour Power!
While it may not be anything to look at with its uninspired décor and simple appearance, this cozy new Bandra café offers up a menu with some simple fast food staples done right
By Raul Dias
In a dynamic ‘culinaryscape’ like that of Mumbai’s—one that’s constantly being populated by shiny new cafés, each trying to outdo the other in terms of spiffy décor and all exuding a cool, hipster-chic vibe—we very rarely come across those that go against the grain. Speaking of grain, La Farina (which means ‘wheat grain flour’ in Italian) is one such brand new café that reinforces the adage of “never judge a book by its cover” with all its might.
Occupying the same space along Bandra West’s meandering Waroda Road in Ranwar Village that once housed a branch of the very popular Kakori House, this tiny, rather bland-looking café proves that it truly is (and should be!) all about the food. Ignoring the only other ‘company’ we have that afternoon that take the form of a swarm of pesky flies, we settle down at one the al fresco café’s tomato red tables and call for a range of fast food perennials from the rather small and concise menu.
Tough it does take a while to prepare, the La Farina special (Rs 385 for a 12 inch) is a well-priced, delicious pizza. We go for the thin crust regular flour one that comes heaped with a trio of chicken sausage, shrimp and juicy roasted chicken morsels—all enrobed by a light tomato sauce and topped with gooey mozzarella cheese.
The mild mozzarella once again shows up in the ultimate grilled cheese sandwich (Rs 195) that’s served with fries that are sadly of the frozen, store-bought variety and not homemade as we’d have liked. But this does not take away from the fresh burst of flavour the tomato slices and basil leaves lend to the sandwich that is in reality a fresh Caprese salad between two grilled slices of bread.
Served with an interesting range of Middle Eastern torshi-style of pickle made from radish, bell peppers and carrots, the generously stuffed chicken salami sandwich (Rs 205) is worth its weight in gold. A yummy sum of its crisp lettuce, crusty garlic croutons and grilled chicken parts, the Caesar salad with chicken (Rs 225) is another winner.
We wash it all down with a dense vegan shake (Rs 120) made with the nutty-tasting soy milk, with a slight hint of coffee flavour peeking through at the end of each sip. Perfectly straightforward, our cappuccino (Rs 100) comes to the table with a thick foamy top and does its job of perking up our lazy Sunday afternoon well.
While we were first told that their blender was out of order, and hence no blended frozen drinks were available that day, our attentive server made sure to quickly inform us when the kitchen snafu was finally sorted out, that he was ready to serve us our first choice of the crunchy frappe (Rs 130). A tall glass of just-the-right-sweet chocolate milk blended with ice and Oreo biscuits and topped with a whipped cream crown, our frappe is worth the initial stress of uncertainty.
We bookend our afternoon fast food session with another one of La Farina’s thin crust pizzas—the al funghi (Rs 320 for a 12 inch). However, this one disappoints as we miss the generosity in both the sparsely scattered mushroom slices and the barely-there sprinkling of mozzarella cheese we had earlier enjoyed heaps of in the pizza’s non-vegetarian counterpart.
But with a whole lot more hits than misses, our preference scales are clearly tipped in favour of this tiny café that’s big on promise.
AT: La Farina Cafe, 5 Dunhill Apartments, A-Wing, 26 Waroda Road, Bandra West.
TIME: 11 am to 11 pm
CALL: 8070661144, 8070661155
(An edited version of this review appeared in the 20th November 2019 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 21 https://www.mid-day.com/articles/flour-power/22119188)
By Raul Dias
In a dynamic ‘culinaryscape’ like that of Mumbai’s—one that’s constantly being populated by shiny new cafés, each trying to outdo the other in terms of spiffy décor and all exuding a cool, hipster-chic vibe—we very rarely come across those that go against the grain. Speaking of grain, La Farina (which means ‘wheat grain flour’ in Italian) is one such brand new café that reinforces the adage of “never judge a book by its cover” with all its might.
Occupying the same space along Bandra West’s meandering Waroda Road in Ranwar Village that once housed a branch of the very popular Kakori House, this tiny, rather bland-looking café proves that it truly is (and should be!) all about the food. Ignoring the only other ‘company’ we have that afternoon that take the form of a swarm of pesky flies, we settle down at one the al fresco café’s tomato red tables and call for a range of fast food perennials from the rather small and concise menu.
Tough it does take a while to prepare, the La Farina special (Rs 385 for a 12 inch) is a well-priced, delicious pizza. We go for the thin crust regular flour one that comes heaped with a trio of chicken sausage, shrimp and juicy roasted chicken morsels—all enrobed by a light tomato sauce and topped with gooey mozzarella cheese.
The mild mozzarella once again shows up in the ultimate grilled cheese sandwich (Rs 195) that’s served with fries that are sadly of the frozen, store-bought variety and not homemade as we’d have liked. But this does not take away from the fresh burst of flavour the tomato slices and basil leaves lend to the sandwich that is in reality a fresh Caprese salad between two grilled slices of bread.
Served with an interesting range of Middle Eastern torshi-style of pickle made from radish, bell peppers and carrots, the generously stuffed chicken salami sandwich (Rs 205) is worth its weight in gold. A yummy sum of its crisp lettuce, crusty garlic croutons and grilled chicken parts, the Caesar salad with chicken (Rs 225) is another winner.
We wash it all down with a dense vegan shake (Rs 120) made with the nutty-tasting soy milk, with a slight hint of coffee flavour peeking through at the end of each sip. Perfectly straightforward, our cappuccino (Rs 100) comes to the table with a thick foamy top and does its job of perking up our lazy Sunday afternoon well.
While we were first told that their blender was out of order, and hence no blended frozen drinks were available that day, our attentive server made sure to quickly inform us when the kitchen snafu was finally sorted out, that he was ready to serve us our first choice of the crunchy frappe (Rs 130). A tall glass of just-the-right-sweet chocolate milk blended with ice and Oreo biscuits and topped with a whipped cream crown, our frappe is worth the initial stress of uncertainty.
We bookend our afternoon fast food session with another one of La Farina’s thin crust pizzas—the al funghi (Rs 320 for a 12 inch). However, this one disappoints as we miss the generosity in both the sparsely scattered mushroom slices and the barely-there sprinkling of mozzarella cheese we had earlier enjoyed heaps of in the pizza’s non-vegetarian counterpart.
But with a whole lot more hits than misses, our preference scales are clearly tipped in favour of this tiny café that’s big on promise.
AT: La Farina Cafe, 5 Dunhill Apartments, A-Wing, 26 Waroda Road, Bandra West.
TIME: 11 am to 11 pm
CALL: 8070661144, 8070661155
(An edited version of this review appeared in the 20th November 2019 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 21 https://www.mid-day.com/articles/flour-power/22119188)
Tuesday, July 2, 2019
Sticky Toffee!
With a hastily put together food menu, coupled with lethargic service, this tiny new Bandra roastery-cum-coffee shop is as forgettable as its lacklustre coffee offerings are.
By Raul Dias
“Can we start off with a coffee with Old Monk flavouring, a hazelnut iced coffee and an elderflower iced tea, please?” we beseech our server enthusiastically. “None of the three are available as we don’t have the flavouring syrups,” shoots back the rather nonplussed server. Maybe we should have paid heed to that as a sign of our impending doom, done an about turn and saved ourselves from an afternoon that was about to get criminally wasted!
Yes, without going into hyperbolic overdrive, we’ve got to say that the three-month-old Toffee is the kind of roastery-cum-coffee shop that you wish would walk the talk. Especially when you have a rather loquacious marketing manager taking earnest efforts to explain to us their “coffee philosophy”. This apparently entails using only premium quality, single-origin Arabica coffee beans from India’s coffee heartland of Chikmagalur in Karnataka and then freshly roasting and grinding it on the café’s premises. But here’s the kicker. Said manager deigned it important to give us this spiel only when after we had revealed our identity as we needed to co-ordinated the photoshoot for this review, post paying our bill.
Prior to that moment, we were royally ignored by the wait staff with no menus proffered when we entered (we had to ask for them) and no options for drinking water presented. In fact, we were never offered any water right through the meal. But that’s just the tip of the proverbial iceberg! Onto the food and drink…
Despite being relatively empty, save for another party of four, our first order took a good half an hour to make it to our table as we sat—surrounded by a swarm of flies—outside the super tiny coffee shop, under an awning that was threating to blow away with every gust of pre-monsoon wind. Our small vanilla latte (Rs 190) had a burnt coffee taste, without even the slightest hint of vanilla, making us wonder if they had perhaps run out of the vanilla syrup as well. Our small machiato (Rs 145) too had that same rancid, burnt mouthfeel. The small sized Belgian chocolate milkshake (Rs 200) had an unpleasant artificial taste with a granular texture. Over diluted and once again lacking any flavour, the cranberry iced tea (Rs 190) was left untouched after a few sips.
Reminding our dining companion of her school days as a boarder, secretly cooking noodles with hot water from the heater in her dorm room, the mag & cheese made with Maggie noodles (Rs 160) tasted just as rushed and hastily made. Ensconced between two slices of stale buns and served with 10 (yes, we counted!) skinny French fries, the plump chicken burger patty (Rs 190) was one of the only things we actually liked, thanks to it being fresh and juicy, with the right amount of seasoning. But far from fresh were the six cheese corn balls (Rs 180) that had a sour aftertaste. Equally terrible was the dry smoked chicken component of the smoked chicken sandwich (Rs 190), as were the rubbery bits of chicken sitting atop the stodgy, 12-inch chicken dominant pizza (Rs 490). Faring a tad better was the perfectly edible chicken salad (Rs 280) with a mint-mustard dressing that served as a ray of hope on the chicken-dominated food menu that needs some serious rethinking. As for those still-unsatiated caffeine cravings, we rushed elsewhere to get our fix!
AT: Shop Number 9, Krishnachandra Road, ONGC Colony, Reclamation, Bandra West.
TIME: 8 am to 11.30 pm
CALL: 7506539555
(This review first appeared on 1st July 2019 in the online edition of the Mid-Day newspaper, India https://www.mid-day.com/articles/sticky-toffee/21265155)
By Raul Dias
“Can we start off with a coffee with Old Monk flavouring, a hazelnut iced coffee and an elderflower iced tea, please?” we beseech our server enthusiastically. “None of the three are available as we don’t have the flavouring syrups,” shoots back the rather nonplussed server. Maybe we should have paid heed to that as a sign of our impending doom, done an about turn and saved ourselves from an afternoon that was about to get criminally wasted!
Yes, without going into hyperbolic overdrive, we’ve got to say that the three-month-old Toffee is the kind of roastery-cum-coffee shop that you wish would walk the talk. Especially when you have a rather loquacious marketing manager taking earnest efforts to explain to us their “coffee philosophy”. This apparently entails using only premium quality, single-origin Arabica coffee beans from India’s coffee heartland of Chikmagalur in Karnataka and then freshly roasting and grinding it on the café’s premises. But here’s the kicker. Said manager deigned it important to give us this spiel only when after we had revealed our identity as we needed to co-ordinated the photoshoot for this review, post paying our bill.
Prior to that moment, we were royally ignored by the wait staff with no menus proffered when we entered (we had to ask for them) and no options for drinking water presented. In fact, we were never offered any water right through the meal. But that’s just the tip of the proverbial iceberg! Onto the food and drink…
Despite being relatively empty, save for another party of four, our first order took a good half an hour to make it to our table as we sat—surrounded by a swarm of flies—outside the super tiny coffee shop, under an awning that was threating to blow away with every gust of pre-monsoon wind. Our small vanilla latte (Rs 190) had a burnt coffee taste, without even the slightest hint of vanilla, making us wonder if they had perhaps run out of the vanilla syrup as well. Our small machiato (Rs 145) too had that same rancid, burnt mouthfeel. The small sized Belgian chocolate milkshake (Rs 200) had an unpleasant artificial taste with a granular texture. Over diluted and once again lacking any flavour, the cranberry iced tea (Rs 190) was left untouched after a few sips.
Reminding our dining companion of her school days as a boarder, secretly cooking noodles with hot water from the heater in her dorm room, the mag & cheese made with Maggie noodles (Rs 160) tasted just as rushed and hastily made. Ensconced between two slices of stale buns and served with 10 (yes, we counted!) skinny French fries, the plump chicken burger patty (Rs 190) was one of the only things we actually liked, thanks to it being fresh and juicy, with the right amount of seasoning. But far from fresh were the six cheese corn balls (Rs 180) that had a sour aftertaste. Equally terrible was the dry smoked chicken component of the smoked chicken sandwich (Rs 190), as were the rubbery bits of chicken sitting atop the stodgy, 12-inch chicken dominant pizza (Rs 490). Faring a tad better was the perfectly edible chicken salad (Rs 280) with a mint-mustard dressing that served as a ray of hope on the chicken-dominated food menu that needs some serious rethinking. As for those still-unsatiated caffeine cravings, we rushed elsewhere to get our fix!
AT: Shop Number 9, Krishnachandra Road, ONGC Colony, Reclamation, Bandra West.
TIME: 8 am to 11.30 pm
CALL: 7506539555
(This review first appeared on 1st July 2019 in the online edition of the Mid-Day newspaper, India https://www.mid-day.com/articles/sticky-toffee/21265155)
Sunday, October 1, 2017
Notes from Sweden
Fika--the Swedish coffee break that’s more about productivity than drinking coffee!
By Raul Dias
It's barely a few hours into my first day in Sweden, and I'm already beginning to see the legendary reserve the Swedes are known for, flake away one sip of coffee at a time. Hesitant giggles morph into full-throated laughs, as eyes lock, ideas click into place and new friendships forged. And all this in just 15 minutes. A mere quarter of an hour we've all taken time off for, from a day immersed in the knowledge of foraging techniques and analysing the dominance of the 'New Nordic Cuisine' on the global culinary scene, among other academic pursuits.
Just like my colleagues and I at the Culinary Academy of Sweden that afternoon, groups of others across the country are indulging in one of Sweden's greatest 'down time' pursuits--fika. A clever syllabic play, the term fika is a spoonerism for kafi as coffee is spelled in Swedish. And as the world's second highest consumers of coffee, after their northeastern neighbours the Finns, the Swedes have perfected the art of celebrating the beverage and all the trappings that come with the seemingly simple act of drinking it.
A Social Phenomenon
But then again, fika is much more than having a coffee. It is a social phenomenon, a legitimate reason to set aside a moment for quality time. According to the Swedish Institute publication The Swedish Kitchen– from Fika to Cosy Friday, fika is best left undefined. It says, that the Swedes prefer not to translate the word fika as they don’t want it to lose significance and become a mere coffee break.
It's at fika time that most ideas are incubated, discussed and even put in motion. All this, set to the
stimulating tune of intense debate. Not dissimilar to the very Kolkata adda tradition, but minus all the garrulous yelling, of course. For the Swedes are loathe to partake in anything confrontational and prefer to keep their decibel levels as low as humanly possible.
"Fika is an important and inalienable part of our culture," says Elizabeth Daude who had been guiding us in the nuances of all things Swedish that day. "It's not strange for us to indulge in fika sessions several times a day. It’s about spending time with people, eating baked goods and drinking great coffee. Kind of like going for a drink with colleagues after work, only we do it mid-work and minus the alcohol!”
And speaking of baked goods, one of fika's greatest 'platefellows' is the kanelbulle or the cinnamon roll. It is these gloriously gooey warm rolls that members of the fika group take turns every day in either buying or making at home themselves for the rest, further adding to the intrinsic 'we-feeling' aspect of fika.
Conduit for Productivity?
Not surprisingly, many companies in Sweden have made it mandatory for all their workers to have a
designated time off during the day to sit down and do fika. It’s often built into many employee contracts for that matter. There's even empirical data to proove the efficacy of fika on productivity. An analysis of the productivity by workers in 38 countries, in the form of a 2014 study by the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD), reveals that Sweden comes in at a respectable number 11.
Even Sweden's most iconic flatpack furniture and home decor brand Ikea, vehemently endorses the fika concept, as is apparent from a paragraph about it on its corporate website: “More than a coffee break, fika is a time to share, connect and relax with colleagues. Some of the best ideas and decisions happen at fika.”
And after having got the idea of writing this very piece you're reading at one such fika session, I couldn't agree more!
(An edited version of this piece first appeared in the 1st October 2017 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 7 http://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/travel/notes-from-sweden/article19776598.ece)
 |
| A fika session in progress! (Pic courtesy : Lena Granefelt/imagebank.sweden.se) |
By Raul Dias
It's barely a few hours into my first day in Sweden, and I'm already beginning to see the legendary reserve the Swedes are known for, flake away one sip of coffee at a time. Hesitant giggles morph into full-throated laughs, as eyes lock, ideas click into place and new friendships forged. And all this in just 15 minutes. A mere quarter of an hour we've all taken time off for, from a day immersed in the knowledge of foraging techniques and analysing the dominance of the 'New Nordic Cuisine' on the global culinary scene, among other academic pursuits.
Just like my colleagues and I at the Culinary Academy of Sweden that afternoon, groups of others across the country are indulging in one of Sweden's greatest 'down time' pursuits--fika. A clever syllabic play, the term fika is a spoonerism for kafi as coffee is spelled in Swedish. And as the world's second highest consumers of coffee, after their northeastern neighbours the Finns, the Swedes have perfected the art of celebrating the beverage and all the trappings that come with the seemingly simple act of drinking it.
A Social Phenomenon
But then again, fika is much more than having a coffee. It is a social phenomenon, a legitimate reason to set aside a moment for quality time. According to the Swedish Institute publication The Swedish Kitchen– from Fika to Cosy Friday, fika is best left undefined. It says, that the Swedes prefer not to translate the word fika as they don’t want it to lose significance and become a mere coffee break.
It's at fika time that most ideas are incubated, discussed and even put in motion. All this, set to the
stimulating tune of intense debate. Not dissimilar to the very Kolkata adda tradition, but minus all the garrulous yelling, of course. For the Swedes are loathe to partake in anything confrontational and prefer to keep their decibel levels as low as humanly possible.
"Fika is an important and inalienable part of our culture," says Elizabeth Daude who had been guiding us in the nuances of all things Swedish that day. "It's not strange for us to indulge in fika sessions several times a day. It’s about spending time with people, eating baked goods and drinking great coffee. Kind of like going for a drink with colleagues after work, only we do it mid-work and minus the alcohol!”
And speaking of baked goods, one of fika's greatest 'platefellows' is the kanelbulle or the cinnamon roll. It is these gloriously gooey warm rolls that members of the fika group take turns every day in either buying or making at home themselves for the rest, further adding to the intrinsic 'we-feeling' aspect of fika.
Conduit for Productivity?
Not surprisingly, many companies in Sweden have made it mandatory for all their workers to have a
designated time off during the day to sit down and do fika. It’s often built into many employee contracts for that matter. There's even empirical data to proove the efficacy of fika on productivity. An analysis of the productivity by workers in 38 countries, in the form of a 2014 study by the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD), reveals that Sweden comes in at a respectable number 11.
Even Sweden's most iconic flatpack furniture and home decor brand Ikea, vehemently endorses the fika concept, as is apparent from a paragraph about it on its corporate website: “More than a coffee break, fika is a time to share, connect and relax with colleagues. Some of the best ideas and decisions happen at fika.”
And after having got the idea of writing this very piece you're reading at one such fika session, I couldn't agree more!
(An edited version of this piece first appeared in the 1st October 2017 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 7 http://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/travel/notes-from-sweden/article19776598.ece)
Sunday, March 19, 2017
A-N-A-T-O-M-I-Z-E: Charcoal-Coffee Martini
By Raul Dias
Notorious for incubating trends of all kinds, never mind how over-the-top or outré they may seem, New York City always manages to shock me silent. But I couldn’t have been more surprised a few months ago, when on a short layover there, a friend insisted I try the jet-black hued perla negra (black pearl) cocktail at Slowly Shirley—a virtual ‘subterranean cocktail sanctuary’ in Manhattan’s hipster haven of the West Village.
Served up in a crystal skull receptacle, this aged rum, orange juice, ginger, sorrel and arrack-redolent libation has a dark little secret ingredient—activated charcoal powder. Little did I know then, that charcoal—an integral part of filtration systems the world over—would become one of early 2017’s hottest new bar essentials. Used for millennia in both Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine as a detoxifying agent and as a superfood that boosts digestive health, activated charcoal powder is enjoying an outing like never before!
And yes, this cocktail micro trend has reached India as well, as I was to recently discover at Kolkata’s Bodega Cantina-Y-Bar. This hip, new restobar that sits languidly along busy Park Street serves up a charcoal-coffee martini that has been enticing the trend loving lot with its caliginous countenance. All this, while relying on a double coffee kick, thanks to a generous splash of Kahlua coffee liqueur, and a rather potent espresso shot to lend that extra zing to this vodka-based cocktail noir, blackened up with the powder of crushed activated charcoal pellets.
(This column first appeared in the 19th March 2017 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 8 http://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/food/charcoal-coffee-martini/article17526868.ece)
Friday, February 10, 2017
For The Food Of Love
Named after Aphrodite, the Greek Goddess of love and
beauty, aphrodisiacs have been titillating our taste buds and pleasing our
palates for centuries. Raul Dias
lists eight such super foods, each imbued with legendary libido-boosting
properties to get you into the mood. Well, it is the month of love, after all.
Isn’t it?
AVOCADO
The truism “we eat with our eyes!” was probably coined keeping the sensually-shaped South American wonder fruit—avocado in mind. The soft, greenish-yellow, buttery flesh, ensconced in a rough dark green shell has garnered the reputation of being an aphrodisiac, extending back to ancient Aztec times. In fact, the Aztecs called the avocado tree “Ahuacuatl,” which translates to “testicle tree.” Modern science however, has proven that the fruit’s high levels of Vitamin E could help keep the spark alive because of its role in maintaining “youthful vigor and energy levels.” We rest our case.
The truism “we eat with our eyes!” was probably coined keeping the sensually-shaped South American wonder fruit—avocado in mind. The soft, greenish-yellow, buttery flesh, ensconced in a rough dark green shell has garnered the reputation of being an aphrodisiac, extending back to ancient Aztec times. In fact, the Aztecs called the avocado tree “Ahuacuatl,” which translates to “testicle tree.” Modern science however, has proven that the fruit’s high levels of Vitamin E could help keep the spark alive because of its role in maintaining “youthful vigor and energy levels.” We rest our case.
Try it out here: Chilli Tossed Tuna Poke with Cubed
Avocado at Toast & Tonic, Bengaluru
BANANA
Never mind what they remind you of. That would be stating the very obvious! Not only do these, naughtily-shaped bad boys come packed with bromelain, an enzyme that triggers testosterone production, but the fruit’s potassium and Vitamin B are said to elevate energy levels. However, experts believe that expecting one banana to bolster things immediately, is a tad unrealistic and that they should be eaten as part of a healthy diet to work their magic. Go on, what are you waiting for!?
Never mind what they remind you of. That would be stating the very obvious! Not only do these, naughtily-shaped bad boys come packed with bromelain, an enzyme that triggers testosterone production, but the fruit’s potassium and Vitamin B are said to elevate energy levels. However, experts believe that expecting one banana to bolster things immediately, is a tad unrealistic and that they should be eaten as part of a healthy diet to work their magic. Go on, what are you waiting for!?
Try it out here: Pearl Millet and Oat Flapjacks with
Bananas, Salted Peanuts and Jaggery Caramel at 212 All Good, Mumbai
ASPARAGUS
Once again, analogies to the very obvious phallic shape of the asparagus spears are unavoidable, making it another ‘deserving’ candidate on a list like this. And just like Avocado, Asparagus is also a good source of Vitamin E, which is involved in stimulating the production of sex hormones. It also increases circulation in the genitourinary system, leading to increased sexual desire. So, should one opt for the green asparagus or the more exotic white variety? How about both? Remember, love is colour blind!
Once again, analogies to the very obvious phallic shape of the asparagus spears are unavoidable, making it another ‘deserving’ candidate on a list like this. And just like Avocado, Asparagus is also a good source of Vitamin E, which is involved in stimulating the production of sex hormones. It also increases circulation in the genitourinary system, leading to increased sexual desire. So, should one opt for the green asparagus or the more exotic white variety? How about both? Remember, love is colour blind!
Try it out here: Miso-Glazed Chilean Seabass on a bed
of Asparagus at Theory, Mumbai
CHOCOLATE
While there’s no disputing chocolate’s rankings on the popularity charts for its sheer luscious taste and sensuous mouth feel, there’s more to it than what’s apparent! It contains the chemicals anandamide and phenylethylamine (PEA), which boost serotonin levels—the feel-good hormone. Yes, that’s the very same hormone your body releases during sex. Interestingly, more than any other variety, it is the inky, cocoa-rich dark chocolate that has been shown to cause a spike in dopamine, which induces feelings of pleasure. And we have just the right one for you…
While there’s no disputing chocolate’s rankings on the popularity charts for its sheer luscious taste and sensuous mouth feel, there’s more to it than what’s apparent! It contains the chemicals anandamide and phenylethylamine (PEA), which boost serotonin levels—the feel-good hormone. Yes, that’s the very same hormone your body releases during sex. Interestingly, more than any other variety, it is the inky, cocoa-rich dark chocolate that has been shown to cause a spike in dopamine, which induces feelings of pleasure. And we have just the right one for you…
Try it out here: Sensual Bitter Chocolate Cake at The
Claridges, New Delhi
COFFEE
To many, the inclusion on coffee on a list like this might seem a wee bit out of place. But the caffeine in coffee is actually a stimulant that ups the heart rate and makes the blood flow. And we all know how important blood flow is to the vital parts in question here! In fact, legend has it that Turkish people claimed coffee to be an aphrodisiac and husbands kept their wives well supplied. If the husband refused, it was a legitimate cause for a wife to divorce him. ‘nuff said!
To many, the inclusion on coffee on a list like this might seem a wee bit out of place. But the caffeine in coffee is actually a stimulant that ups the heart rate and makes the blood flow. And we all know how important blood flow is to the vital parts in question here! In fact, legend has it that Turkish people claimed coffee to be an aphrodisiac and husbands kept their wives well supplied. If the husband refused, it was a legitimate cause for a wife to divorce him. ‘nuff said!
Try it out here: The Oh! Sweet Ninja Coffee Cocktail
with Vodka, Kahlua, and an Espresso Shot at Shiro, Bengaluru
HONEY
Ever looked up the etymology of the word ‘Honeymoon’? This post-marriage love vacation apparently gets its name from mead, an alcoholic beverage made from honey that was traditionally given to the new bride and groom to drink on their wedding night. Honey is packed with Vitamin B and boron, which helps regulate estrogen and testosterone levels and provides a natural energy boost. Even Hippocrates is believed to have prescribed honey for sexual vigour. Well, in that case…
Ever looked up the etymology of the word ‘Honeymoon’? This post-marriage love vacation apparently gets its name from mead, an alcoholic beverage made from honey that was traditionally given to the new bride and groom to drink on their wedding night. Honey is packed with Vitamin B and boron, which helps regulate estrogen and testosterone levels and provides a natural energy boost. Even Hippocrates is believed to have prescribed honey for sexual vigour. Well, in that case…
Try it out here: Honey Flan with Figs at The Clearing
House, Mumbai
OYSTERS
Who’d imagine these ultra-unappetising looking molluscs held a hidden secret within their rock-like shells? High in zinc, oysters have a reputation for being great for love and fertility. Researchers recently found that oysters contain amino acids that trigger production of sex hormones. The briny liquid that accompanies the critter is also said to boost the libido like no other elixir can. Viagra of the sea, anyone?
Who’d imagine these ultra-unappetising looking molluscs held a hidden secret within their rock-like shells? High in zinc, oysters have a reputation for being great for love and fertility. Researchers recently found that oysters contain amino acids that trigger production of sex hormones. The briny liquid that accompanies the critter is also said to boost the libido like no other elixir can. Viagra of the sea, anyone?
Try it out here: Broiled Oysters and Choriz in a Ponzu
Sauce at The Fatty Bao, New Delhi
WATERMELON
What? That innocuous summertime refreshing thirst quencher! An aphrodisiac? Clearly, we’ve saved the most surprising candidate for last. According to a recent study, this lycopene- and citrulline-rich fruit may have a Viagra-like effect on the body, as it relaxes blood vessels and improves circulation.
What? That innocuous summertime refreshing thirst quencher! An aphrodisiac? Clearly, we’ve saved the most surprising candidate for last. According to a recent study, this lycopene- and citrulline-rich fruit may have a Viagra-like effect on the body, as it relaxes blood vessels and improves circulation.
Try it out here: Asian Watermelon Pop Salad at Shizusan,
Pune
(A shorter, edited version of this article first appeared in the February 2017 issue of Hi!Blitz Magazine, India)
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