Idli do good

With a menu full of yummy, highly affordable idli iterations and other South Indian snacks, this new, vegetarian takeaway joint makes for a fun ‘tiffin’ time!     

 

By Raul Dias

If there is one quotidian tradition we sorely miss about our earlier work stint in Chennai, then that would have to be the yummy, twice-daily repast called ‘tiffin’ in the local parlance. A short, mid-morning and teatime snack that is punctuated by strong filter coffee (but, of course!) and a smorgasbord of scrumptious treats. Often highlighted by a mindboggling variety of our favourite South Indian snack—the idli. 

While there is no dearth of Udupi restaurants in Mumbai that try their best to satiate those basic idli cravings, it is the sheer lack of more local and regional idli iterations like the Kanchipuram and thatte idli that gets to us. The newly opened, all-veg Idli Didli Doo seeks to remedy that. And it does so with aplomb, offering over a dozen versions of the steamed rice cake—some traditional and a few that cheekily defy convention.

The menu here is so extensive that we feel the need to try it out on two separate occasions. We pick up the first order ourselves from the tiny Shivaji Park outlet. While the other, we call in a few days later via a food delivery service provider. 

We start off with the thatte idli (Rs 65) that is a fluffy, quarter plate sized single idli that, just like all the other idli varieties on offer, is accompanied by a delicious, drumstick- and brinjal-redolent sambar and two fresh-tasting chutneys (coconut and tomato-chilly). The mustard seed and curry leaf-speckled Kanchipuram idli and the red-tinted ragi idli (both, Rs 65 for two), are equally scrumptious. 

The bite sized mini rasam idli (Rs 65 for five), with the thin, lemony rasam, putting an interesting spin on the dish is perfect for a particularly rainy day along with a steaming shot of filter coffee (Rs 15 for a half cup). Seeing the rarely-found-in-Mumbai paniyaram (Rs 80 for six) on the menu, we could not help ordering a portion of the ball-shaped dumplings, that are also known as paddu in Karnataka, and made from idli batter in a specially indented griddle pan. The neer moru (Rs 40) is a refreshing, South Indian take on traditional chaas and a cooling antidote to the fiery tomato-chilly chutney that we dunk our crisp medu vada (Rs 55) into.

Wanting to go a little ‘off-piste’, we try the rather wacky Italian idli fry (Rs 105) that sees chopped up bits of regular idli tossed in a hot pan with a squirt of olive oil and served with a sprinkling of herbs like oregano and shavings of cheese. Carrying the experimental leitmotif a bit further, we try the chocolate idli waffle (Rs 155) that almost tastes like a sour buttermilk waffle, thanks to the tangy idli batter it is made with.

We end our eating marathon with a ghee-enriched bowl of the utterly satisfying kesari (Rs 55) also known as sheera to us Mumbaikars. This one is all good things a sweet send-off should be—memorable and more-ish. Just like our twin ‘tiffin’ sessions have been.             

AT: Idli Didli Doo, Devkunj Bldg., Shivaji Park, Dadar (W).

TIME: 8am to 9pm

CALL: 9372463949         

 (An edited version of this review appeared in the 14th August 2020 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 17 https://m.mid-day.com/articles/time-for-tiffin/22934215)                                           

Deliciously ‘desi-baroque’

Dishing out some innovative, modern Indian fare in a decidedly kitsch setting, this new Shivaji Park restaurant is an interesting addition to the city’s culinary landscape!

By Raul Dias

Michael Jackson in the full Mughal-e-Azam-esque garb of Shahzada Salim is staring down at us. Overhead, a ring of brass bells threatens to start pealing every time a gust of wind surges in as the main door opens. The wall behind us is encrusted with huge pearls and other assorted coloured glass stones. Then suddenly the singer seated at the small stage next to us breaks into a fusion version of the Raag Malhar that seems appropriate, as the rain is pouring buckets outside. 
And no, in case you were wondering, we aren’t alluding to some sort of substance-induced trip we recently went on. In fact, we weren’t even drinking anything more potent than table water at that point. We were simply there for a lunch visit to check out the brand new Tanatan restaurant that recently replaced the very popular China Bistro in the Shivaji Park neighbourhood of Dadar.
Desi-baroque. That’s the best way to describe this rather over-the-top restaurant with its embellished walls and intricately carved, backlit jaali screens. All this combined with a menu that’s replete with an array of modern Indian dishes and a few fusion ones thrown in.
Take for example the very innovative and delicious vegetarian khow suey samosa (Rs 320) that came to the table sitting in six shot glasses filled with a tangy coconut milk- and galangal-based sauce. The wackily named tarbooz without booze (Rs 255)—a fragrant watermelon and star anise mocktail—had a nice tart lemony finish to it and was the perfect foil to our robustly spiced mains.
With its crisp, wafer-like accompanying bread giving it a great textural element, the Mangalorean kori roti bowl (Rs 574) was generously portioned with juicy chicken bits enrobed in a bright orange chilli-coconut gravy. Reminding us of a well-made haleem and prefect for a rainy day, the cooker wali gosht khichdi (Rs 570) was the ultimate comfort food dish. Each gooey mouthful of spicy lentils and rice enhanced with the umami taste of tender chunks of mutton that also gave the preparation some meaty heft.
However, we weren’t entirely convinced of the freshness of the dal Bukhara (Rs 340) that though edible, tasted a bit off with none of the expected smoky, buttery goodness to it. Even the quinoa rosemary kulcha (Rs 110) that we used to mop up the dal was a big disappointment with its burnt taste overshadowing any hint of delicate rosemary.
That aberration aside, we’d happily go back to Tanatan for seconds…and maybe even thirds! 
      

AT: Tanatan, Vidya Bhavan, Opposite Sena Bhavan, Shivaji Park, Dadar West.
TIME: 12 pm to 1.30 am
CALL: 68493253

(An edited version of this review appeared in the 12th September 2019 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 22 https://www.mid-day.com/articles/deliciously-desi/21715192)