Koli Cuisine

 

(This article first appeared online on 25th June 2024 on Live Mint, India https://www.livemint.com/mint-lounge/food/mumbai-koli-cuisine-food-walks-festivals-restaurants-11719248145962.html)

Bimba Nayak: Pathare Prabhu Cuisine's Culinary Emissary

(This article first appeared online and in print in the 24th December 2023 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on pages 4-5 https://www.thehindu.com/food/features/chef-bimba-nayak-maharashtra-pathare-prabhu-food-traditional-recipes-custodian-influencer/article67649951.ece)

Harissa: Kashmir's Winter Wonder

 

(This story first appeared in the 17th December 2023 issue of The New Indian Express newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 8 and online here https://www.newindianexpress.com/lifestyle/food/2023/dec/17/harissa-hot-comfort-in-the-valley-2641577.html)

Food of the Konkan

 

(This article first appeared online on 4th October 2023 in Mint Lounge, India https://lifestyle.livemint.com/food/discover/konkani-cuisine-western-india-food-111696403452704.html)

Tuluva Udupi Mangalorean Food

 

(This article first appeared online on 31st May 2023 in Mint Lounge, India https://lifestyle.livemint.com/food/discover/mangalorean-cuisine-tuluva-food-udupi-dishes-christian-dishes-111685525002745.html)

Saravle - The Pasta Of Maharashtra's Konkan Region (Recipe Inside)

 

This article was published on 5th February 2021 online on NDTV Food https://food.ndtv.com/food-drinks/how-to-make-saravle-recipe-maharashtra-konkan-region-dish-2363932

Umbadiyu - Gujarat's Original Winter Barbeque | How To Make Umbadiyu (Recipe Inside)

 

This article was published on 25th January 2021 online on NDTV Food

https://food.ndtv.com/food-drinks/how-to-make-umbadiyu-step-by-step-recipe-of-umbadiyu-2357988

Today’s ‘Wrap’ Star

Every 15th of August, Goa celebrates both the nation’s Independence Day as well as the Catholic feast of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary by indulging in the patoleo—a medicinal, festive treat that is so much more than a mere sweet    

By Raul Dias

Like most Indian micro communities, we, the inhabitants of the tiny state of Goa have our very own set of peculiarities. Chief among these is our all-consuming fixation with hypochondria, where running to the doctor at the slightest hint of a malady is almost a state pastime. A close second is our unbridled love for feasts of all kind. This could take the form of village feasts, religious feasts or agriculture-based ones that pivot around sowing/harvesting seasons. 

Interestingly, this truism is augmented by the fact that in Goa, every feast day and almost every ailment has its own ‘patron’ sweet treat. One that helps celebrate, and the other that helps cure, or so is the belief. The humble patoleo has the distinction of holding sway over both ‘portfolios’…and then, some more!      

 

Leafing Through

Loathe as we are to call it a mere ‘steamed dumpling’—even though the patoleo is made with just three main ingredients viz. red, parboiled local Goan rice called ukda tandul, dark palm jaggery called madachem god in Konkani, and fresh coconut scrapings—it is anything but simple to us Goenkars. Even its full name is a tongue-twisting haldikolyanche patoleo, with the first part referring to the all-important haldi or turmeric leaf that the sweet is ensconced in before steaming. For it is this crucial catalyst that gives the patoleo its gingery, almost floral fragrance and taste when steamed in a traditional copper vessel with an airtight lid. Known either as a komfro or chondro, depending on which part of Goa—Bardez up north or Salcete in the south—one comes from.

But what brings the patoleo into focus is the fact that it is today, the 15th of August, that we Catholics observes the feast of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. A big feast day celebrated all over Goa, usually with street processions and dances, and always with plates overflowing with the hallowed patoleo. This is also the time of the year when churches across Goa celebrate the harvest festival—again with patoleo—that is multifariously known as the Festa de Novidades, Novem or the Konnsachem Fest, symbolising the holy day of thanksgiving and gratitude to God. 

Now, coming to the medicinal properties of patoleo, it is said to be a great antidote to whooping cough among children thanks to the antiseptic, Ayurvedic properties imbued in the turmeric leaves. With early August, in particular, seeing a profusion of turmeric plants shoot up all over Goa and India’s other western coastal regions, there truly is no better time of the year than now to celebrate the patoleo. 

Community Spread

But it would be very remiss of me to shamelessly co-opt the patoleo into being a Catholic Goan sweet only. For, in Goa, it is also prepared by the Hindu Goan community to celebrate the festivals of Naag Panchmi and Ganesh Chathurti. In fact, the Hindus celebrate the aforementioned harvest festival on the second day of the Ganesh Chathurti festival. In neighbouring Karnataka, a salt-bereft version of the patoleo that is called haldi panna pathali is even offered to Goddess Parvati, who, according to legend, used to crave the preparation during her pregnancy.

While researching her book—The Culinary Odyssey of Goa—that she’s currently working on, author and Goan food historian, Odette Mascarenhas dug up some interesting patoleo factoids. The most surprising of all being the possible origin of the sweet in far Bengal. “The patoleo is quite similar to the preparation called pitha in Bengal which is also a rice batter and coconut-jaggery stuffed steamed dumpling made in January for the seasonal harvest of rice there. I believe that migration—particularly after the 1009-1026 AD invasions of Bengal by Mahmud of Gazni, when families fled to the Konkan coast—brought it to Goa,” she opines.

This is probably true, for the patoleo can even be found among Mumbai’s East Indian Catholic community where it is called pan mori and patoley by the Mangalurean Catholics.   

Different Strokes

While the ground rice and salt paste smeared onto the turmeric leaf is the base for all patoleo, each family makes a few minor tweaks to their recipe, mainly in the coconut-jaggery filling called chun that sits in the center of the leaf. “The inherent diversity of each household in Goa brings uniqueness to the precision with which the dessert is prepared, as a curative snack or as a prized festive dessert. Every home has its own unique patoleo recipe,” says Jerson Fernandes, executive chef at the Novotel Goa Dona Sylvia Resort Hotel, who has researched the sweet and come up with versions that use everything from ghee-fried charoli or chironji seeds (buchanania lanzan) to cardamom flvaoured chun iterations. He claims to have even come across a highly non-traditional patoleo version that is steamed in a cup-like parcel fashioned out of jackfruit leaves.

And speaking of interpretations, the Mumbai-based modern Goan restaurant O Pedro recently took things more than a few step further when their pastry chef Heena Punwani sent out her jazzed up version of the warm patoleo. She teamed it with a light palm jaggery caramel, poha granola and a vanilla bean ice-cream on the side.       

Deliciously blasphemous enough to send any patoleo-loving, hypochondriac Goenkar scurrying to the nearest doctor, I would say!  

------

(recipe)

Patoleo

INGREDIENTS:

1 cup parboiled Goan red rice (ukda tandul) 

¼ tsp salt

1 cup fresh coconut (scraped) 

100 gm dark jaggery (madachem god)

10-12 turmeric leaves

METHOD:

1. Soak the rice in water overnight.

2. The next day, after draining the rice, grind it in a food processor along with the salt till the mixture resembles a smooth, but thick slurry. Use a little water, if needed. Let the mixture sit for 1-2 hours.

3. For the filling, melt the jaggery in a pan and add the fresh, scraped coconut, mixing well. Turn off heat and allow to cool down to room temperature.

4. Clean and wipe the turmeric leaves with a damp cloth.

5. With wet fingers, gently spread the rice paste along the surface of the leaf, making sure to not tear the leaf and to leave a little space along the edges of the leaf.

6. In the center of the leaf, place a tablespoon of the coconut filling, spreading it outwards (make sure to not overstuff the leaf as the filling will ooze out when steaming).

7. Fold each leaf in half lengthwise, pressing gently with the palm of your hand to seal the edges.

8. Without overcrowding (you can make them in batches), steam the patoleo for 15-20 in a covered, pre-heated, water-based steamer till the leaves turn a dark green.

9. Serve warm.   

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 15th August 2020 issue of The Hindu Business Line newspaper's BLink section on page 22 https://www.thehindubusinessline.com/blink/cover/a-goan-sweet-for-august-15/article32350189.ece)

Idli do good

With a menu full of yummy, highly affordable idli iterations and other South Indian snacks, this new, vegetarian takeaway joint makes for a fun ‘tiffin’ time!     

 

By Raul Dias

If there is one quotidian tradition we sorely miss about our earlier work stint in Chennai, then that would have to be the yummy, twice-daily repast called ‘tiffin’ in the local parlance. A short, mid-morning and teatime snack that is punctuated by strong filter coffee (but, of course!) and a smorgasbord of scrumptious treats. Often highlighted by a mindboggling variety of our favourite South Indian snack—the idli. 

While there is no dearth of Udupi restaurants in Mumbai that try their best to satiate those basic idli cravings, it is the sheer lack of more local and regional idli iterations like the Kanchipuram and thatte idli that gets to us. The newly opened, all-veg Idli Didli Doo seeks to remedy that. And it does so with aplomb, offering over a dozen versions of the steamed rice cake—some traditional and a few that cheekily defy convention.

The menu here is so extensive that we feel the need to try it out on two separate occasions. We pick up the first order ourselves from the tiny Shivaji Park outlet. While the other, we call in a few days later via a food delivery service provider. 

We start off with the thatte idli (Rs 65) that is a fluffy, quarter plate sized single idli that, just like all the other idli varieties on offer, is accompanied by a delicious, drumstick- and brinjal-redolent sambar and two fresh-tasting chutneys (coconut and tomato-chilly). The mustard seed and curry leaf-speckled Kanchipuram idli and the red-tinted ragi idli (both, Rs 65 for two), are equally scrumptious. 

The bite sized mini rasam idli (Rs 65 for five), with the thin, lemony rasam, putting an interesting spin on the dish is perfect for a particularly rainy day along with a steaming shot of filter coffee (Rs 15 for a half cup). Seeing the rarely-found-in-Mumbai paniyaram (Rs 80 for six) on the menu, we could not help ordering a portion of the ball-shaped dumplings, that are also known as paddu in Karnataka, and made from idli batter in a specially indented griddle pan. The neer moru (Rs 40) is a refreshing, South Indian take on traditional chaas and a cooling antidote to the fiery tomato-chilly chutney that we dunk our crisp medu vada (Rs 55) into.

Wanting to go a little ‘off-piste’, we try the rather wacky Italian idli fry (Rs 105) that sees chopped up bits of regular idli tossed in a hot pan with a squirt of olive oil and served with a sprinkling of herbs like oregano and shavings of cheese. Carrying the experimental leitmotif a bit further, we try the chocolate idli waffle (Rs 155) that almost tastes like a sour buttermilk waffle, thanks to the tangy idli batter it is made with.

We end our eating marathon with a ghee-enriched bowl of the utterly satisfying kesari (Rs 55) also known as sheera to us Mumbaikars. This one is all good things a sweet send-off should be—memorable and more-ish. Just like our twin ‘tiffin’ sessions have been.             

AT: Idli Didli Doo, Devkunj Bldg., Shivaji Park, Dadar (W).

TIME: 8am to 9pm

CALL: 9372463949         

 (An edited version of this review appeared in the 14th August 2020 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 17 https://m.mid-day.com/articles/time-for-tiffin/22934215)                                           

New Spice Quests

Join us as we tour the country on its many spice tours and workshops that not just give us glimpses into the wonderful world of spices, but also help us understand why spice is India’s ‘thing’! 

By Raul Dias    

‘Think India, think spice’. Now, there, is one maxim, that has continually defined the subcontinent and all its exotica-laced offerings—from the times of the ancient spice trade, right up to today. A maxim that brought about a new identity and one that changed the country in myriad ways, some good and some, well...not so good!
Right from the Mughal invasions to lucre-greedy, mercenary colonialists to the modern day ‘spice tourist’—all sought (and continue to seek) out India’s bounty of spices that truly runneth over. Each launching elaborate quests to replenish their spice cache with India’s edible gold.
And while tomes have been written about the country’s erstwhile spice conquests, we focus our attention on the newest ‘invasion’ aka. spice tours and workshops. A truly burgeoning vertical of the world food tourism industry today, according to the latest UN world tourism report.
Here are a few such spice tours and workshops that will help you see beyond just peppercorns and cardamoms:

Green Land Spice Garden Tour, Thekkady
Slap bang in the middle of Kerala’s spice wonderland of Thekkady and located at the foot of a gentle hill is the wonderful, arboreal Green Land Spice Garden. Here, one can partake in a guided spice lesson that seems almost like a crash course in all things spice! Led by Tigin a very knowledgeable local lad who takes you through everything that is grown and foraged in the meandering spice garden. From the de rigueur cardamom and clove trees to the more exotic cassia and nutmeg, you’re given a crash course in how spices are grown, harvested and then packaged. Speaking of which, at the attached spice shop, you can tank up on all your favourite spices like mace, cinnamon quills and the fragrant allspice to take back home.
Cost: Rs. 100 per person
Duration: 1 hour
Contact: greenlandspice@gmail.com

Spice Walk through Gariahat, Kolkata
Putting a more practical spin on spices, this highly interactive tour not only introduces you to the milieu of spices that go into a traditional Bengali meal, but also gives you a taste of the amalgamation of spices, culminating in an elaborate spice-centric meal.  On this tour, you will visit a local bazaar in the Gariahat neighbourhood for an immersive introduction to the various spices and ingredients that are used in this part of the country. Especially the pungent, beloved shorshe or mustard seeds that is part of the panch phoron quintet which also includes cumin, fennel, fenugreek, and nigella seeds. The tour ends with a lunch of a thala– a multi-course platter comprising a full Bengali traditional meal at a local restaurant.
Cost: Rs. 4,500 per person
Duration: 3 hours
Contact: www.kolkatamagic.com, deepa@magictoursofindia.com

The Food Bazaars Tour, Old Delhi (Rs. 2,600 per person)
This early morning spice tour—that is part of the newly launched Airbnb Trips’ portfolio of curated experiences—starts off with a visit to Daryaganj’s vegetable market where you can interact with vendors and get an insight into some of the most commonly prepared Indian dishes. Things will take a spicier turn at Khari Baoli where Anubhav Sapra, one of the city’s leading authorities on food and spices of Delhi Food Walks will help you understand Indian spices and condiments while you get a perfect view of Old Delhi. A breakfast of the turmeric- and red chilli powder-laden bedmi poori along with the cardamom-redolent nagori halwa and tea or lassi, finishes off this very informative journey into the spicy realm of one of the city’s oldest neighbourhoods.
Cost: Rs. 2,600 per person
Duration: 3 hours
Contact: www.delhifoodwalks.com

John’s Boat Tours, Ponda, Goa
The central Goan temple town of Ponda is famous for having a large concentration of spice plantations, growing everything from nutmeg, cardamom, cinnamon, black and white pepper to coriander, chilies, and betel nut. The most popular of these plantations being Rustic Plantation, Savoi Plantation, Tropical Spice Plantation, Sahakari Spice Plantation, Pascoal Spice Farms and Abyss Spice Farms. And while it may seem like a daunting task to try to visit all of them, John’s Boat Tours comes up with specially customised spice tours that you can design, riding in his boat, in order to reach the spice plantation. Once at the farms, while you sip on a herbal drink, you get to see the art of how spices are grown, especially the betel nut, where pluckers climb these trees, over a hundred feet above the ground and then sway from tree to tree.
Cost: Depends on customisation
Duration: Full day
Contact: www.johnboattours.com

Tadka Workshop, Mumbai
Taking a very unique approach to enhance our understanding of spices, the Tadka Workshop by food historian Rushina Munshaw-Ghildiyal of APB Cook Studio focusses on the all-important tadka or tempering of spices which is a distinguishing feature of Indian cooking. This workshop which includes a spice market visit, is an ode to the great Indian tadka, and is designed to help you provoke new and interesting flavours in everyday cooking. Topics here range from spice immersion sessions to hands-on Indian home cooking classes using regional Indian spices.
Cost: Rs. 3,000 onwards per person
Duration: 4 hours
Contact: www.apbcookstudio.com, info@apbcookstudio.com

Walk Through Spice Market, Chennai
Leading you through the fascinating world of south Indian spices, this tour takes place twice a day; at around 9am and 2pm. The trail takes you through the local markets of Chennai and helps demystify the unique usage of spices such as cardamom, coriander, turmeric, tamarind and asafoetida and how they add flavour to south Indian cuisine. You not only get to handpick fresh vegetables and home-made spices in the presence of expert guides, but you also learn the art of mixing them in the correct proportions. The tour ends with a spice-redolent meal prepared by you under the guidance of a local chef.
Cost: Rs. 9,500 onwards per person
Duration: 4 hours
Contact: www.thrillophilia.com

Ever heard of these Indian spices?

·         Radhuni: The dried-up fruit of wild celery, radhuni is a rather curious spice that looks like ajwain (caraway seed), smells like parsley, but tastes like celery!

·         Jaiur: Found mainly in the north-eastern states of India, jaiur aka. winged prickly ash seeds start off with slight lemony overtones when chewed, the create a tingly numbness in the mouth that sets the final stage for searing heat.

·         Kodampuli: A dried berry like fruit, kodampuli is found in Kerala and is a great souring agent, much like tamarind and kokum, but with a sweetish-smoky aftertaste.

·         Jakhiya: With a sharp pungent smell and crunchy taste, jakhiya is preferred over cumin and mustard seeds for tempering dals in the Garhwal region of Uttarakhand.

·         Ratanjot: A dried herb grown in Himachal Pradesh and Jammu and Kashmir, ratanjot is used to add a crimson hue to regional dishes like the Kashmiri rogan josh.

·         Maratti moggu: The unopened flower bud of the red silk cotton tree, the mustard-meets-black pepper spice of maratti moggu is indigenous to the Chettinad region of Tamil Nadu and is used dishes like Karnataka’s bisi bele baath.

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the August 2017 issue of Jetwings Domestic in-flight magazine of Jet Airwayshttp://www.jetairways.com/EN/IN/jetexperience/magazines.aspx)