Showing posts with label WINTER. Show all posts
Showing posts with label WINTER. Show all posts
Wednesday, December 20, 2023
Winter Stews Around The World
Sunday, December 17, 2023
Harissa: Kashmir's Winter Wonder
(This story first appeared in the 17th December 2023 issue of The New Indian Express newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 8 and online here https://www.newindianexpress.com/lifestyle/food/2023/dec/17/harissa-hot-comfort-in-the-valley-2641577.html)
Sunday, February 28, 2021
Notes from a kallbad
By Raul Dias
Almost exactly a year ago, when countries around the world started going under lockdown one after the other like some sort of uncertain global game of dominos, there was one among them that resolutely refused to let its chips fall. And that country was Sweden.
Faced with mounting criticism, the Scandinavian county still managed to flatten its Covid-19 curve rather rapidly and effectively. This, without ever implementing a full-scale lockdown. A controversial strategy that at once had the country’s health leadership claim victory. But the cynics were not so impressed with this apparent inaction. And rightly so.
With many Swedes choosing the more sensible self-quarantine and social distancing, cases of mental unrest and depression saw a remarkable upswing across the country. All the while getting further exacerbated by the long, dark and miserably frigid Nordic winter that sets in as early as late September. Enough to send the country hurtling down the precipice of a major mental health crisis.
Slam Dunk
Recognising this and attempting to remedy it by turning to one of the Sweden’s greatest outdoor winter traditions of ice bathing called kallbad in Swedish is a charity initiative taken on by a few of the members of the Ladies Circle of Sweden club, Gripsholm in south central Sweden. Earlier this month, on the 7th of February at exactly 11.30am Sweden time, 80 women across the country—led by Anna Lyckström, a club member who came up with the idea—plunged simultaneously into the icy waters of lakes, ponds and other semi-frozen waterbodies nearest to them. Some of the ladies living in the high north of the country needing to saw through almost 60cm of ice to get through the water!
All this to raise both money and awareness in the fight against mental illness. Together, they managed to amass just over SEK 8,000 (INR 70,000 approximately) for the national charity project Fonden För Psykisk hälsa (Foundation of Mental Health). With the 'simulbaths' being aired digitally over the club’s Facebook page.
Shock Therapy
A brutally cold water dip is a Nordic favourite for many due to a host of health benefits ranging from raising ones feel-good hormones and lowering stress to improving sleep and general mood. Interestingly, a 2004 study conducted by scientists at Oulu University in Finland reinforces the immense benefits of ice bathing on mental health.
Apparently, icy water causes the blood vessels to constrict in order to try to retain body heat and the blood pressure increases to avoid cooling down. In the process to protect the body, hormones such as endorphins, are released and act as pain relief (as well as anti-depressants) for a few hours. As a result, ice bathers are known to lead more active lives and are generally happier and more fulfilled people.
But the Swedes have cottoned onto this trend and seen method to the madness for centuries. Given their nonchalance towards public nudity and taking full advantage of the coastline and multitude of lakes and rivers, skinny dipping in their icy waters is a national obsession come autumn and winter. With a session in the scalding hot sauna completing the therapeutic experience.
Hot-n-Cold
Speaking of sauna, equally popular is the concept of spending a cold winter’s day in one of the many cold bath houses across the country, most of which are open year-round. These serve several purposes. Not only do they prepare one for the invigorating open-air kallbad, they typically house a number of saunas to sweat it out in, both before and after an ice bath.
It was during the last quarter of the 19th century that the first few cold bath houses began to surface across Sweden. All greatly inspired by the facilities found in health resorts in places like Switzerland. But before the fully-fledged bath houses emerged, stair-equipped outdoor swimming pools started cropping up as early as the 1850s.
But keeping up with the times seems to be a mantra for many bath houses that earlier had specifically dedicated areas for men and women given the nudity aspect. Take for instance Malmö’s Ribersborgs Kallbadhus that now acknowledges transgender and non-binary people by making the bath house gender egalitarian.
(This column first appeared in the 28th February 2021 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 7 https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/travel/notes-from-a-kallbad-or-ice-bath-in-sweden/article33940727.ece)
Tuesday, January 26, 2021
Umbadiyu - Gujarat's Original Winter Barbeque | How To Make Umbadiyu (Recipe Inside)
This article was published on 25th January 2021 online on NDTV Food
Sunday, March 17, 2019
Heaven on Earth!
In the run up the International Day of Happiness on 20th March, Raul Dias tells you why Engelberg, Switzerland is one of the happiest, most fun places on earth thanks to some divine, angelic intervention and Mother Nature at her most beautiful best.
By Raul Dias
I’m not a huge fan of train travel. But whenever I find myself in Switzerland, I always have a change of heart. Bucolic little towns with steepled churches and a countryside dotted with perfect little farm houses and barns whiz past you, leaving a blur of green with specks of yellow from the wild daisies popping up every now and then. However, my recent late winter trip to Switzerland showed me a totally different side to the country.
The train ride from Lucerne to Engelberg is all of the above save for the last 10 minutes. Just after you pass the station of Grafenort, a dark, depressing tunnel suddenly seems to swallow up the entire train for around seven minutes, leaving you wondering if there is any light at the end of the tunnel. Quite literally! And then, all of a sudden, your eyes try their best to adjust to the blinding beauty they are forced to witness. A veritable mountainous winter wonderland awaits you, just as the train pulls up at Engelberg’s tiny train station all sheathed in a fuzzy snow blanket. “This is divinity at its best”, you hear yourself say. Without realising that in the case of Engelberg this is very much the case.
The angel angle
Legend has it that it was the voice of an angel that ordered the founding of the medieval Benedictine monastery in the town and thus its name became Engelberg or “Angel’s Town”. A huge, imposing structure the monastery is the all-important axis around which the entire town pivots. It finds itself represented in some of the most interesting ways. Take for example, my very first stop, the Show Cheese Factory at the monastery.
Dating back to the 17th century, the most important source of income for the monastery and the people of the valley of Engelberg was cattle and cheese trade. Cheese was carried on mules over passes in the Swiss Alps. Traders from Engelberg would journey over the Jochpass to the Grimsel hospice, where they would meet up with their Italian counterparts, in order to trade cheese for wine and silk.
Today, the happy, ever-smiling staff at the well-appointed Cheese Factory take pride in demonstrating to visitors from around the world the ancient art of cheese making. It is here where fresh milk, coming from cows which feed in the lush Engelberg pastures and surrounding Alps, is used to produce the delicious Swiss Monastery Cheese, particularly the very popular Engelberger Klosterglocke soft cream cheese that takes its bell shape from the monastery’s bell that tolls promptly on the hour to this very day.
Soaring high!
Another great calling card that Engelberg hold close to its heart is the ultra-popular winter haven of Mt. Titlis. A short 10-minute walk or a 3-minute bus ride from Engelberg’s train station and you find yourself at the base of the cable car valley station to go up Mt. Titlis. The new 8-seater cable cars whisk you comfortably from Engelberg directly to Stand station. You then take the world’s first revolving cable car, the Titlis Rotair, to the summit station at 3,020 metres above sea level.
Once at the top Titlis keeps up to its promise of being the ultimate in winter fun. Boasting more than 80 km of slopes, most of which are snow-sure, the ski area offers plenty of variety from off piste to the more controlled free style skiing. What’s more, you are guaranteed of enjoying all the snow action from October through until May.
And if skiing isn’t your thing then you can let off some steam in the snow park at Trübsee Alpine Lodge. Just grab a snowtube, minibob or balancer and whiz down the piste, whipping up a mini blizzard as you go. At 3,041 metres above sea level, the Titlis Cliff Walk is not just one of the newest attractions up the mountain, but also Europe’s highest suspension bridge. Once you ford the bridge you can take a walk to the vantage point at Stotzig Egg and admire the view of Engelberg below.
(An edited version of this column first appeared in the 17th March 2019 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Weekend section on page 3 https://www.freepressjournal.in/featured-blog/why-engelberg-in-switzerland-is-truly-heaven-on-earth/1483218)
By Raul Dias
I’m not a huge fan of train travel. But whenever I find myself in Switzerland, I always have a change of heart. Bucolic little towns with steepled churches and a countryside dotted with perfect little farm houses and barns whiz past you, leaving a blur of green with specks of yellow from the wild daisies popping up every now and then. However, my recent late winter trip to Switzerland showed me a totally different side to the country.
The train ride from Lucerne to Engelberg is all of the above save for the last 10 minutes. Just after you pass the station of Grafenort, a dark, depressing tunnel suddenly seems to swallow up the entire train for around seven minutes, leaving you wondering if there is any light at the end of the tunnel. Quite literally! And then, all of a sudden, your eyes try their best to adjust to the blinding beauty they are forced to witness. A veritable mountainous winter wonderland awaits you, just as the train pulls up at Engelberg’s tiny train station all sheathed in a fuzzy snow blanket. “This is divinity at its best”, you hear yourself say. Without realising that in the case of Engelberg this is very much the case.
The angel angle
Legend has it that it was the voice of an angel that ordered the founding of the medieval Benedictine monastery in the town and thus its name became Engelberg or “Angel’s Town”. A huge, imposing structure the monastery is the all-important axis around which the entire town pivots. It finds itself represented in some of the most interesting ways. Take for example, my very first stop, the Show Cheese Factory at the monastery.
Dating back to the 17th century, the most important source of income for the monastery and the people of the valley of Engelberg was cattle and cheese trade. Cheese was carried on mules over passes in the Swiss Alps. Traders from Engelberg would journey over the Jochpass to the Grimsel hospice, where they would meet up with their Italian counterparts, in order to trade cheese for wine and silk.
Today, the happy, ever-smiling staff at the well-appointed Cheese Factory take pride in demonstrating to visitors from around the world the ancient art of cheese making. It is here where fresh milk, coming from cows which feed in the lush Engelberg pastures and surrounding Alps, is used to produce the delicious Swiss Monastery Cheese, particularly the very popular Engelberger Klosterglocke soft cream cheese that takes its bell shape from the monastery’s bell that tolls promptly on the hour to this very day.
Soaring high!
Another great calling card that Engelberg hold close to its heart is the ultra-popular winter haven of Mt. Titlis. A short 10-minute walk or a 3-minute bus ride from Engelberg’s train station and you find yourself at the base of the cable car valley station to go up Mt. Titlis. The new 8-seater cable cars whisk you comfortably from Engelberg directly to Stand station. You then take the world’s first revolving cable car, the Titlis Rotair, to the summit station at 3,020 metres above sea level.
Once at the top Titlis keeps up to its promise of being the ultimate in winter fun. Boasting more than 80 km of slopes, most of which are snow-sure, the ski area offers plenty of variety from off piste to the more controlled free style skiing. What’s more, you are guaranteed of enjoying all the snow action from October through until May.
And if skiing isn’t your thing then you can let off some steam in the snow park at Trübsee Alpine Lodge. Just grab a snowtube, minibob or balancer and whiz down the piste, whipping up a mini blizzard as you go. At 3,041 metres above sea level, the Titlis Cliff Walk is not just one of the newest attractions up the mountain, but also Europe’s highest suspension bridge. Once you ford the bridge you can take a walk to the vantage point at Stotzig Egg and admire the view of Engelberg below.
(An edited version of this column first appeared in the 17th March 2019 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Weekend section on page 3 https://www.freepressjournal.in/featured-blog/why-engelberg-in-switzerland-is-truly-heaven-on-earth/1483218)
Friday, February 10, 2017
Krakow Calling!
The magical city of Krakow is one of Poland’s oldest
and largest cultural strongholds that abounds with everything from history and
food to some stellar museums and basilicas, discovers Raul Dias on a winter trip in and around the city that sits on the
banks of the Vistula River
Pics courtesy: Polish Tourist Organisation, Wieliczka Salt Mine Archives, Chocholowski Termy and Raul Dias
As much as I pride myself on being well-travelled,
having experienced almost every sort of climatic condition the earth keeps
throwing at me, I’d never been privy to that magical phenomenon of the season’s
first snowfall. The kind where snowflakes softer than cotton blossoms caress
your cheek, transporting you straight into the pages of Dostoyevskian winter
classics like White Nights…
So, imagine my sheer delight when almost as soon as I stepped outside Krakow’s John Paul II International Airport, a solitary snowflake came gliding down, and settled on my left cheek. “It’s the season’s first!” my friend and host Emilia Kubik let a by-now-delighted me know. With a welcome like that, how could my next two days in Krakow be anything but magical?
So, imagine my sheer delight when almost as soon as I stepped outside Krakow’s John Paul II International Airport, a solitary snowflake came gliding down, and settled on my left cheek. “It’s the season’s first!” my friend and host Emilia Kubik let a by-now-delighted me know. With a welcome like that, how could my next two days in Krakow be anything but magical?
The
Heart of It
As the second largest and one of the oldest cities in Poland, situated on the banks of the placid Vistula River, Krakow as a city dates back to the 7th century. And since then it has traditionally been one of the leading centers of Polish academic, cultural, and artistic life. And at the very heart of it all is the magnificent Main Square in the old city, the largest in all of Europe.
The whole district of the old city is divided into two sections by the Royal Road, the coronation route traversed by the erstwhile Kings of Poland. The route begins at St. Florian’s Church outside the northern flank of the old city walls in the medieval suburb of Kleparz; passes the Barbican of Krakow built in 1499, and enters Stare Miasto through the Florian Gate. It leads down Floriańska Street through the Main Square, and up Grodzka to Wawel, the former seat of Polish royalty, overlooking the Vistula River.
Along the route, making stops at the St Mary’s Basilica and the Museum Rynek Undergrounds are imperative to get a feel of the ancient city. The former is a Gothic edifice from where the hejnal mariacki—the city’s famous bugle call—is played every hour on the hour. One of the city’s most enduring traditions, the tune deliberately breaks off mid-melody in honour of the mythical trumpeter who was shot in the neck while warning the city of Mongol invaders.
The Museum Rynek is a rather unusual museum, I was soon to discover, in that it lies ‘buried’ below the Main Square and is the actual location of the ancient Krakow city center. The main exhibit called “In the footsteps of Krakow’s European identity”, makes use of holograms constructed by using projectors alongside fog machines and several dozen screens to recreate the atmosphere of Krakow 700 years ago.
As the second largest and one of the oldest cities in Poland, situated on the banks of the placid Vistula River, Krakow as a city dates back to the 7th century. And since then it has traditionally been one of the leading centers of Polish academic, cultural, and artistic life. And at the very heart of it all is the magnificent Main Square in the old city, the largest in all of Europe.
The whole district of the old city is divided into two sections by the Royal Road, the coronation route traversed by the erstwhile Kings of Poland. The route begins at St. Florian’s Church outside the northern flank of the old city walls in the medieval suburb of Kleparz; passes the Barbican of Krakow built in 1499, and enters Stare Miasto through the Florian Gate. It leads down Floriańska Street through the Main Square, and up Grodzka to Wawel, the former seat of Polish royalty, overlooking the Vistula River.
Along the route, making stops at the St Mary’s Basilica and the Museum Rynek Undergrounds are imperative to get a feel of the ancient city. The former is a Gothic edifice from where the hejnal mariacki—the city’s famous bugle call—is played every hour on the hour. One of the city’s most enduring traditions, the tune deliberately breaks off mid-melody in honour of the mythical trumpeter who was shot in the neck while warning the city of Mongol invaders.
The Museum Rynek is a rather unusual museum, I was soon to discover, in that it lies ‘buried’ below the Main Square and is the actual location of the ancient Krakow city center. The main exhibit called “In the footsteps of Krakow’s European identity”, makes use of holograms constructed by using projectors alongside fog machines and several dozen screens to recreate the atmosphere of Krakow 700 years ago.
And just like an onion, there are many myriad layers that make up the ‘Krakow experience’, a few of which lie outside the city limits waiting for the intrepid traveller to peel them back and discover the wonders that they hold within…
With
a Pinch of Salt
A tourist attraction since the 15th century, the Wieliczka Salt Mine is one of Poland’s top must-visit places and one of the 12 sites entered onto the UNESCO World Cultural and Natural Heritage List in 1978. Lying within the Krakow metropolitan area and opened in the 13th century, the mine produced table salt continuously until 2007, as one of the world’s oldest salt mines in operation.
In earlier times, touring the salt-bearing realm used to be reserved to the elite. To be granted admission, you needed the consent of the king, which was only granted to a fortunate few. Fortunately for me, all I needed was a ticket and off I went discovering the wonders of the sub-terrain wonderland. The historic underground forms an impressive maze composed of 2,391 chambers and 245 km of galleries, excavated on nine levels at the depth of between 64 m and 327 m underground. The area open to the public constitutes only two percent of the entire mine.
One of the most popular sites in the mine is the miraculous Chapel of St. Kinga and to see it one must travel along the popular Tourist Route. Even our very own superstar couple Jaya and Amitabh Bachchan have done the trail!
A most extraordinary journey through the labyrinth of saline corridors, the route is a fantastic opportunity to see the most brilliant landscapes of underground chambers and discover the history and traditions of the Wieliczka mine. Going down deeper and deeper into the mine, one can visit unique places, chambers cut out in solid rock, amazing underground lakes, majestic timber constructions, genuine salt figures, and see the marvellous machines and tools once used by ancient miners. Three kilometres of meandering corridors, 800 steps descending into the mine leading 135 m underground, and at the end, you get to travel back to the surface in an authentic miners’ lift.
A tourist attraction since the 15th century, the Wieliczka Salt Mine is one of Poland’s top must-visit places and one of the 12 sites entered onto the UNESCO World Cultural and Natural Heritage List in 1978. Lying within the Krakow metropolitan area and opened in the 13th century, the mine produced table salt continuously until 2007, as one of the world’s oldest salt mines in operation.
In earlier times, touring the salt-bearing realm used to be reserved to the elite. To be granted admission, you needed the consent of the king, which was only granted to a fortunate few. Fortunately for me, all I needed was a ticket and off I went discovering the wonders of the sub-terrain wonderland. The historic underground forms an impressive maze composed of 2,391 chambers and 245 km of galleries, excavated on nine levels at the depth of between 64 m and 327 m underground. The area open to the public constitutes only two percent of the entire mine.
One of the most popular sites in the mine is the miraculous Chapel of St. Kinga and to see it one must travel along the popular Tourist Route. Even our very own superstar couple Jaya and Amitabh Bachchan have done the trail!
A most extraordinary journey through the labyrinth of saline corridors, the route is a fantastic opportunity to see the most brilliant landscapes of underground chambers and discover the history and traditions of the Wieliczka mine. Going down deeper and deeper into the mine, one can visit unique places, chambers cut out in solid rock, amazing underground lakes, majestic timber constructions, genuine salt figures, and see the marvellous machines and tools once used by ancient miners. Three kilometres of meandering corridors, 800 steps descending into the mine leading 135 m underground, and at the end, you get to travel back to the surface in an authentic miners’ lift.
Thermal
Indulgence!
Escape from the bustling city life of Krakow for a day, just like I did, and submit your every sore, tense muscle to the gentle, loving care that only a dip in a thermal bath can provide. As the largest thermal complex in the region, the Chocholowski Termy thermal bath is located in the town of Podhale, a few hours’ drive from Krakow en route to the scenic Tatra Mountains. Opened in June 2016, the pools in this complex are filled with curative water extracted from the depth of nearly 3,600 meters. Special attention should be paid to the healing zone, where barrels of raw, sulphurous thermal water and a thermal pool with brine iodinated water can be found. While sulphur water has positive effects on skin and circulatory system, it also aids in the treatment of rheumatic diseases and I was told that salt baths are specially recommended to people, who suffer from neurosis, insomnia and arthritis. Additionally, besides a spa, the Chocholowski Termy also has 30 pools and barrels of different size and specificity, including Poland’s first outside swimming pool filled with thermal water.
Escape from the bustling city life of Krakow for a day, just like I did, and submit your every sore, tense muscle to the gentle, loving care that only a dip in a thermal bath can provide. As the largest thermal complex in the region, the Chocholowski Termy thermal bath is located in the town of Podhale, a few hours’ drive from Krakow en route to the scenic Tatra Mountains. Opened in June 2016, the pools in this complex are filled with curative water extracted from the depth of nearly 3,600 meters. Special attention should be paid to the healing zone, where barrels of raw, sulphurous thermal water and a thermal pool with brine iodinated water can be found. While sulphur water has positive effects on skin and circulatory system, it also aids in the treatment of rheumatic diseases and I was told that salt baths are specially recommended to people, who suffer from neurosis, insomnia and arthritis. Additionally, besides a spa, the Chocholowski Termy also has 30 pools and barrels of different size and specificity, including Poland’s first outside swimming pool filled with thermal water.
Schindler’s
List?
Back in Krakow, make sure to end your sojourn (again, just like I did!), by paying homage to Poland’s ghastly past at the very well-appointed Schindler’s Factory Museum located in the old Jewish district of Kazimierz. In fact, the Academy Award-winning movie Schindler’s List was even partially filmed in this original factory building. Today, a multi-level museum packed with remnants of the past, including Oskar Schindler’s original writing desk, this place was once the location of Schindler’s factory of enameled vessels ‘Emalia’. It has been transformed into a modern museum devoted to the wartime experiences in Krakow under the five-year Nazi occupation during World War II. Here, ingenious exhibitions combine period artifacts, photos and documents with multimedia and set-piece arrangements in an attempt to create a full-immersion experience.
And that’s exactly how I would sum up my entire Krakow experience—immersive. To such an extent, that, today as I write this, I can still feel that first snowflake of winter settling on my cheek…
Back in Krakow, make sure to end your sojourn (again, just like I did!), by paying homage to Poland’s ghastly past at the very well-appointed Schindler’s Factory Museum located in the old Jewish district of Kazimierz. In fact, the Academy Award-winning movie Schindler’s List was even partially filmed in this original factory building. Today, a multi-level museum packed with remnants of the past, including Oskar Schindler’s original writing desk, this place was once the location of Schindler’s factory of enameled vessels ‘Emalia’. It has been transformed into a modern museum devoted to the wartime experiences in Krakow under the five-year Nazi occupation during World War II. Here, ingenious exhibitions combine period artifacts, photos and documents with multimedia and set-piece arrangements in an attempt to create a full-immersion experience.
And that’s exactly how I would sum up my entire Krakow experience—immersive. To such an extent, that, today as I write this, I can still feel that first snowflake of winter settling on my cheek…
FACT
FILE
Getting There
While there are no direct flights from India to Krakow, the best way to get there is via Munich and Frankfurt. From there, there are a number of daily flights to Krakow on airlines like LOT and Lufthansa. The super-efficient integrated tram and bus network make travelling within Krakow a piece of cake. Indian passport holders need a Schengen visa to visit Poland and the same can be obtained at the Polish Embassy/Consulate in New Delhi/Mumbai.
Getting There
While there are no direct flights from India to Krakow, the best way to get there is via Munich and Frankfurt. From there, there are a number of daily flights to Krakow on airlines like LOT and Lufthansa. The super-efficient integrated tram and bus network make travelling within Krakow a piece of cake. Indian passport holders need a Schengen visa to visit Poland and the same can be obtained at the Polish Embassy/Consulate in New Delhi/Mumbai.
When
To Visit
Though spring and summer are the best times to visit Krakow, with the months from March to September seeing plenty of free music concerts held in parks and other public places, the month of December is especially magical with all things Christmas-y including the beautiful Christmas Market and the giant lit up tree in the historic Main Square.
Though spring and summer are the best times to visit Krakow, with the months from March to September seeing plenty of free music concerts held in parks and other public places, the month of December is especially magical with all things Christmas-y including the beautiful Christmas Market and the giant lit up tree in the historic Main Square.
Accommodation
Krakow has an excellent selection of luxury hotels to choose from and some of the best are:
* Hotel Pod Róza (www.podroza.hotel.com.pl)
Krakow has an excellent selection of luxury hotels to choose from and some of the best are:
* Hotel Pod Róza (www.podroza.hotel.com.pl)
For
More Information Visit:
www.ckdezerter.pl
www.wieliczka-saltmine.com
www.chocholowskietermy.pl
www.oskarschindlerfactory.com
www.poland.travel
www.ckdezerter.pl
www.wieliczka-saltmine.com
www.chocholowskietermy.pl
www.oskarschindlerfactory.com
www.poland.travel
(A shorter, edited version of this article first appeared in the February 2017 issue of Hi!Blitz Magazine, India)
Friday, January 20, 2017
All ‘Polish’ed up!
An imposing city with a historic past, Warsaw truly
comes alive as the bountiful snowflakes transform it into a winter wonderland,
perfect for a pre-Christmas holiday. Raul Dias checks in
and checks out Poland’s stunning capital while paying obeisance to its
favourite son—Frédéric François Chopin.
Pics courtesy: Polish Tourist Organisation and Raul
Dias
“Congratulations!” the burly, mustachioed immigration
officer shouts at me the minute I hand over my passport for his perusal. I had
just landed at Warsaw’s gargantuan Frédéric François Chopin International
Airport, that, along with a host of other monuments scattered around the Polish
capital, pays rich homage to the aforementioned composer and Warsaw ‘homeboy’. But
more on that later. Mumbling a confused “Err… thanks”, I rush to the baggage
carousel only to hear my phone alerting me to the fact that a few hours ago,
Indian beauty queen Srinidhi Shetty had won the Miss Supranational 2016 title
in Poland’s beautiful resort town of Krynica-Zdroj.
On a winter business trip to Poland, with the Warsaw leg being an important part, I braced myself for the almost arctic, sub-zero temperature as I left the comfortable womb-like confines of the warm airport terminal building to face the wrath of the bone-chilling cold outside. With a souped up, WiFi-enabled van whisking me off to the center of town towards my home for the next two days—the well-appointed H15 Boutique Hotel, I was ready to take on whatever Warsaw had I store for me. And boy, was I in for a treat!
On a winter business trip to Poland, with the Warsaw leg being an important part, I braced myself for the almost arctic, sub-zero temperature as I left the comfortable womb-like confines of the warm airport terminal building to face the wrath of the bone-chilling cold outside. With a souped up, WiFi-enabled van whisking me off to the center of town towards my home for the next two days—the well-appointed H15 Boutique Hotel, I was ready to take on whatever Warsaw had I store for me. And boy, was I in for a treat!
Chopin
Away
Undoubtedly the most famous resident of Warsaw, Chopin spent the first 20 years of his life in the city. Here he studied music, learned the manners of society and gave his first concerts. Walking the streets of Warsaw you will pass buildings where he stayed or which he visited. There are many places which are a homage paid to his talent and Warsaw even boasts the world’s largest Chopin memorabilia collection.
One of the first stops my guide-for-the-day Kuba insisted we make was to the Royal Lazienki Museum’s gardens that has as its premier attraction a rather odd-looking statue of Chopin who seems to be being ‘devoured’ by a vulture or something there like! It was only on closer inspection of the monument that I noticed that the ‘vulture’ is actually a gnarly branch of a tree, that Kuba said was symbolic of lending protection to Chopin.
I was told that Chopin concerts are held at the foot of the monument, every Sunday from mid-May until late September. I, however, had to be content with the music emanating from the musical benches that have buttons embedded into them, that, when pressed, play the virtuoso’s most popular compositions.
Undoubtedly the most famous resident of Warsaw, Chopin spent the first 20 years of his life in the city. Here he studied music, learned the manners of society and gave his first concerts. Walking the streets of Warsaw you will pass buildings where he stayed or which he visited. There are many places which are a homage paid to his talent and Warsaw even boasts the world’s largest Chopin memorabilia collection.
One of the first stops my guide-for-the-day Kuba insisted we make was to the Royal Lazienki Museum’s gardens that has as its premier attraction a rather odd-looking statue of Chopin who seems to be being ‘devoured’ by a vulture or something there like! It was only on closer inspection of the monument that I noticed that the ‘vulture’ is actually a gnarly branch of a tree, that Kuba said was symbolic of lending protection to Chopin.
I was told that Chopin concerts are held at the foot of the monument, every Sunday from mid-May until late September. I, however, had to be content with the music emanating from the musical benches that have buttons embedded into them, that, when pressed, play the virtuoso’s most popular compositions.
Old
Town Blues
Interestingly, despite being hundreds of miles away from the nearest ocean, Warsaw’s city emblem features a mermaid and it is her statue that forms the central focal point of its tiny and compact little cobblestoned town center. According to legend, Serena the mermaid was the sister of Amanda, the little mermaid of Copenhagen. Caught by a couple of fisherman to sell as food in the market, Serena managed to entrance a young lad—with her siren call—into cutting her imprisoning net and letting her go, promising to return to Warsaw to protect it whenever it needed her. And so, in one hand, the mermaid’s statue holds a shield and a sword in the other.
I’m sure Serena’s offer would have come in handy when almost the entire town was destroyed in the Warsaw Uprising of August 1944 by Nazi troops. After the war, a five-year reconstruction campaign by its citizens resulted in today’s meticulous restoration of the Old Town (Stare Miasto), with its churches, palaces and market-place. It is an outstanding example of a near-total reconstruction of a span of history covering the 13th to the 20th century.
Interestingly, despite being hundreds of miles away from the nearest ocean, Warsaw’s city emblem features a mermaid and it is her statue that forms the central focal point of its tiny and compact little cobblestoned town center. According to legend, Serena the mermaid was the sister of Amanda, the little mermaid of Copenhagen. Caught by a couple of fisherman to sell as food in the market, Serena managed to entrance a young lad—with her siren call—into cutting her imprisoning net and letting her go, promising to return to Warsaw to protect it whenever it needed her. And so, in one hand, the mermaid’s statue holds a shield and a sword in the other.
I’m sure Serena’s offer would have come in handy when almost the entire town was destroyed in the Warsaw Uprising of August 1944 by Nazi troops. After the war, a five-year reconstruction campaign by its citizens resulted in today’s meticulous restoration of the Old Town (Stare Miasto), with its churches, palaces and market-place. It is an outstanding example of a near-total reconstruction of a span of history covering the 13th to the 20th century.
FACT
FILE
Getting There
While there are no direct flights from Mumbai to Warsaw, the best way to get there is via Munich and Frankfurt. From there, there are a number of daily flights to Warsaw on airlines like LOT and Lufthansa. The super-efficient metro and buses make travelling within Warsaw a piece of cake. Indian passport holders need a Schengen visa to visit Poland and the same can be obtained at the Polish Consulate in Mumbai.
Getting There
While there are no direct flights from Mumbai to Warsaw, the best way to get there is via Munich and Frankfurt. From there, there are a number of daily flights to Warsaw on airlines like LOT and Lufthansa. The super-efficient metro and buses make travelling within Warsaw a piece of cake. Indian passport holders need a Schengen visa to visit Poland and the same can be obtained at the Polish Consulate in Mumbai.
When
To Visit
Though spring and summer are the best times to visit Warsaw, with the months from May to September seeing plenty of free music concerts held in parks and other public places, the month of December is especially magical with all things Christmas-y including the beautiful Christmas Market and the giant lit up tree in the historic Theater Square.
Though spring and summer are the best times to visit Warsaw, with the months from May to September seeing plenty of free music concerts held in parks and other public places, the month of December is especially magical with all things Christmas-y including the beautiful Christmas Market and the giant lit up tree in the historic Theater Square.
Accommodation
Warsaw has an excellent selection of hotels to choose from to suit all budgets and tastes. Some of the best value-for-money options are:
* H15 Boutique Hotel (www.h15boutiqueapartments.com)
* Mercure Warszawa Grand (www.mercure.com)
(A shorter, edited version of this article appeared in the 31st December 2016 issue of the Afternoon Despatch & Courier newspaper, India http://www.afternoondc.in/mumbai-mix/all-polished-up/article_184820)
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