Open-faced Sandwiches Around the World

 

(This article first appeared online on 19th July 2023 in Mint Lounge, India https://lifestyle.livemint.com/food/discover/open-face-sandwich-avocado-toast-111689750236665.html)

Notes from a kallbad

 

By Raul Dias

Almost exactly a year ago, when countries around the world started going under lockdown one after the other like some sort of uncertain global game of dominos, there was one among them that resolutely refused to let its chips fall. And that country was Sweden.

Faced with mounting criticism, the Scandinavian county still managed to flatten its Covid-19 curve rather rapidly and effectively. This, without ever implementing a full-scale lockdown. A controversial strategy that at once had the country’s health leadership claim victory. But the cynics were not so impressed with this apparent inaction. And rightly so.

With many Swedes choosing the more sensible self-quarantine and social distancing, cases of mental unrest and depression saw a remarkable upswing across the country. All the while getting further exacerbated by the long, dark and miserably frigid Nordic winter that sets in as early as late September. Enough to send the country hurtling down the precipice of a major mental health crisis.

Slam Dunk

Recognising this and attempting to remedy it by turning to one of the Sweden’s greatest outdoor winter traditions of ice bathing called kallbad in Swedish is a charity initiative taken on by a few of the members of the Ladies Circle of Sweden club, Gripsholm in south central Sweden. Earlier this month, on the 7th of February at exactly 11.30am Sweden time, 80 women across the country—led by Anna Lyckström, a club member who came up with the idea—plunged simultaneously into the icy waters of lakes, ponds and other semi-frozen waterbodies nearest to them. Some of the ladies living in the high north of the country needing to saw through almost 60cm of ice to get through the water!

All this to raise both money and awareness in the fight against mental illness. Together, they managed to amass just over SEK 8,000 (INR 70,000 approximately) for the national charity project Fonden För Psykisk hälsa (Foundation of Mental Health). With the 'simulbaths' being aired digitally over the club’s Facebook page.

Shock Therapy

A brutally cold water dip is a Nordic favourite for many due to a host of health benefits ranging from raising ones feel-good hormones and lowering stress to improving sleep and general mood. Interestingly, a 2004 study conducted by scientists at Oulu University in Finland reinforces the immense benefits of ice bathing on mental health. 

Apparently, icy water causes the blood vessels to constrict in order to try to retain body heat and the blood pressure increases to avoid cooling down. In the process to protect the body, hormones such as endorphins, are released and act as pain relief (as well as anti-depressants) for a few hours. As a result, ice bathers are known to lead more active lives and are generally happier and more fulfilled people. 

But the Swedes have cottoned onto this trend and seen method to the madness for centuries. Given their nonchalance towards public nudity and taking full advantage of the coastline and multitude of lakes and rivers, skinny dipping in their icy waters is a national obsession come autumn and winter. With a session in the scalding hot sauna completing the therapeutic experience.  

Hot-n-Cold

Speaking of sauna, equally popular is the concept of spending a cold winter’s day in one of the many cold bath houses across the country, most of which are open year-round. These serve several purposes. Not only do they prepare one for the invigorating open-air kallbad, they typically house a number of saunas to sweat it out in, both before and after an ice bath.

It was during the last quarter of the 19th century that the first few cold bath houses began to surface across Sweden. All greatly inspired by the facilities found in health resorts in places like Switzerland. But before the fully-fledged bath houses emerged, stair-equipped outdoor swimming pools started cropping up as early as the 1850s. 

But keeping up with the times seems to be a mantra for many bath houses that earlier had specifically dedicated areas for men and women given the nudity aspect. Take for instance Malmö’s Ribersborgs Kallbadhus that now acknowledges transgender and non-binary people by making the bath house gender egalitarian.

(This column first appeared in the 28th February 2021 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 7 https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/travel/notes-from-a-kallbad-or-ice-bath-in-sweden/article33940727.ece)

Hail, Holy Helsinki!

From grand cathedrals to ‘alien’ chapels and churches hewn from rocks, Helsinki has an interesting selection of unique places of worship. Raul Dias recently discovered this facet on a short layover in the capital of Finland.  

By Raul Dias


Do pardon the triple ‘H’ alliteration in the header of this travel piece. It’s not just that I have a great affection for that particular figure of speech. But in this case, it is very much deserved and thus, warranted. “Hail, Holy Helsinki!” was also the exact same phrase that I uttered when I got back to my cruise ship cabin after spending precisely eight hours in Helsinki, when the ship docked at the Finnish capital’s port for a day, halfway through its nine-day Baltic Sea itinerary.
Now, for a city of modest proportions such as Helsinki, that one can easily cover on foot in less than two hours, it sure has an interesting cache of—here goes another alliteration—churches, chapels and cathedrals.
Here are four of the most unique and awe-inspiring ones:

The Helsinki Cathedral
This neoclassical Lutheran cathedral is one of the most iconic buildings of Helsinki and cannot be missed as it occupies prime position in the center of town. In fact, it was the first thing I saw of Helsinki from my ship cabin’s balcony as we docked. The imposing building dominates the city’s main Senate Square with its grand pillars, blue domes dotted with golden stars and statues of the twelve apostles along the roof that seem to lay guard over the city. Interestingly, the interiors of the cathedral are rather spartan and plain when compared to the elegant exterior. However, the cathedral does hold an atmospheric crypt with a small chapel which is worth exploring if you have the time. A city landmark of sorts, the flight of stairs leading to the cathedral is where locals set up meeting spots. But the stairs is also a great place to sit down and marvel at the other neoclassical buildings encircling the square, all of which were designed by Carl Ludvig Engel.

Uspenski Cathedral 
A spectacular red-brick building, the Uspenski Cathedral can be seen from a distance and forms a stunning part of Helsinki’s skyline. Set on top of a hill on Katajanokka island, you also get panoramic views of the city from outside the cathedral. As the largest Orthodox Church in Western Europe, the Uspenski Cathedral shows Russia’s influence on Finland as the country was part of the former USSR. Built in the Russian-Byzatine style, the green and gold onion-shaped domes resemble many of those found on churches in Moscow and St. Petersburg. The Orthodox style continues on the inside with an array of impressive chandeliers. The cathedral is also home to a number of religious icons that shine in all their gilded splendour.

Kamppi Chapel
Slap bang in the middle of Helsinki’s rather quiet downtown area, it’s very hard to miss the sight of the intriguing Kamppi Chapel. Also known as the ‘Chapel of Silence’, it has been described as resembling everything from a bow of a wooden ship to an alien egg, if you please! Whatever it reminds you of, it cannot be argued that it is brilliantly designed. In classic Finnish style, it is an ultra-modern and innovative design whilst also being simple and stylish. As the newest of the lot, it was dreamt up by the architects at KS2 and opened in 2012. It is also very different from the rest featured in this article, in that, no religious events, such as baptisms or weddings, take place here. Rather, it is used as a quiet haven and escape for people to retreat from the noise of the city, for a moment of peace and calm.

Temppeliaukio Rock Church
I’ve truly saved my favourite of the four for the last. The final iconic church on my list is the Temppeliaukio Church or the Church of the Rock, or just Rock Church, which is also the most exotic of the quartet. Located in the heart of the city, it is carved entirely out of solid granite rock and is a beautiful sight to behold. Exuding a definite pre-historic, Flintstones-eque vibe, the church was planned by two Finnish architect brothers Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen and opened in 1969. Natural light streams into the church through the skylight that surrounds the 22-diameter copper dome roof. The raw rock walls create excellent acoustics and the church is regularly used for concerts.

(An edited version of this column first appeared in the 26th May 2019 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Weekend section on page 3 https://www.freepressjournal.in/travel/hail-holy-helsinki/1533719)

48 Hours in Oslo

A vibrant city with a rich maritime legacy, Oslo isn’t just the dynamic capital of Norway, but also the perfect place to enjoy a quick two-day jaunt spent discovering its treasure-trove of attractions and flavours.

 
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the June 2018 issue of Jetwings Domestic in-flight magazine of Jet Airways http://www.jetairways.com/EN/IN/jetexperience/magazines.aspx)

The ‘New’ New Nordic

Having ensnared the food world in its vice-like grip for the last couple of years, the New Nordic culinary movement is now a border-less one, going way beyond its Scandinavian progenitors. And one that’s spinning off myriad interpretations, with its back to basics, sustainable model being at the very core!

(This article first appeared in the Jan-Feb-March 2018 issue of HDFC Imperia magazine)