Hail, Holy Helsinki!

From grand cathedrals to ‘alien’ chapels and churches hewn from rocks, Helsinki has an interesting selection of unique places of worship. Raul Dias recently discovered this facet on a short layover in the capital of Finland.  

By Raul Dias


Do pardon the triple ‘H’ alliteration in the header of this travel piece. It’s not just that I have a great affection for that particular figure of speech. But in this case, it is very much deserved and thus, warranted. “Hail, Holy Helsinki!” was also the exact same phrase that I uttered when I got back to my cruise ship cabin after spending precisely eight hours in Helsinki, when the ship docked at the Finnish capital’s port for a day, halfway through its nine-day Baltic Sea itinerary.
Now, for a city of modest proportions such as Helsinki, that one can easily cover on foot in less than two hours, it sure has an interesting cache of—here goes another alliteration—churches, chapels and cathedrals.
Here are four of the most unique and awe-inspiring ones:

The Helsinki Cathedral
This neoclassical Lutheran cathedral is one of the most iconic buildings of Helsinki and cannot be missed as it occupies prime position in the center of town. In fact, it was the first thing I saw of Helsinki from my ship cabin’s balcony as we docked. The imposing building dominates the city’s main Senate Square with its grand pillars, blue domes dotted with golden stars and statues of the twelve apostles along the roof that seem to lay guard over the city. Interestingly, the interiors of the cathedral are rather spartan and plain when compared to the elegant exterior. However, the cathedral does hold an atmospheric crypt with a small chapel which is worth exploring if you have the time. A city landmark of sorts, the flight of stairs leading to the cathedral is where locals set up meeting spots. But the stairs is also a great place to sit down and marvel at the other neoclassical buildings encircling the square, all of which were designed by Carl Ludvig Engel.

Uspenski Cathedral 
A spectacular red-brick building, the Uspenski Cathedral can be seen from a distance and forms a stunning part of Helsinki’s skyline. Set on top of a hill on Katajanokka island, you also get panoramic views of the city from outside the cathedral. As the largest Orthodox Church in Western Europe, the Uspenski Cathedral shows Russia’s influence on Finland as the country was part of the former USSR. Built in the Russian-Byzatine style, the green and gold onion-shaped domes resemble many of those found on churches in Moscow and St. Petersburg. The Orthodox style continues on the inside with an array of impressive chandeliers. The cathedral is also home to a number of religious icons that shine in all their gilded splendour.

Kamppi Chapel
Slap bang in the middle of Helsinki’s rather quiet downtown area, it’s very hard to miss the sight of the intriguing Kamppi Chapel. Also known as the ‘Chapel of Silence’, it has been described as resembling everything from a bow of a wooden ship to an alien egg, if you please! Whatever it reminds you of, it cannot be argued that it is brilliantly designed. In classic Finnish style, it is an ultra-modern and innovative design whilst also being simple and stylish. As the newest of the lot, it was dreamt up by the architects at KS2 and opened in 2012. It is also very different from the rest featured in this article, in that, no religious events, such as baptisms or weddings, take place here. Rather, it is used as a quiet haven and escape for people to retreat from the noise of the city, for a moment of peace and calm.

Temppeliaukio Rock Church
I’ve truly saved my favourite of the four for the last. The final iconic church on my list is the Temppeliaukio Church or the Church of the Rock, or just Rock Church, which is also the most exotic of the quartet. Located in the heart of the city, it is carved entirely out of solid granite rock and is a beautiful sight to behold. Exuding a definite pre-historic, Flintstones-eque vibe, the church was planned by two Finnish architect brothers Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen and opened in 1969. Natural light streams into the church through the skylight that surrounds the 22-diameter copper dome roof. The raw rock walls create excellent acoustics and the church is regularly used for concerts.

(An edited version of this column first appeared in the 26th May 2019 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Weekend section on page 3 https://www.freepressjournal.in/travel/hail-holy-helsinki/1533719)

Cruise Control!

A Baltic Sea cruise aboard the gigantic Norwegian Getaway Cruise Ship on an epic eight-day journey, taking in the wonders of Denmark, Germany, Estonia, Russia, Finland and Sweden is the stuff dreams are made of, says Raul Dias

To be brutally honest, going on a cruise was never my thing. Having been on three not-so-fun cruises before, I had resolutely made up my mind to shun this type of a journey-cum-vacation that seems to curry fond favour with the over 60s crowd. Yes, I’d always felt that going on my fourth cruise was something I’d reserve for the autumn of my life. Certainly, never in my wildest dreams would I have imagined going on one in my mid-30s. That too, all by myself!

Great Expectations
But then, as the saying goes “never say never”. And so, this year, in early October, I found myself at Copenhagen airport taking in a crisp autumn morning, as I hopped into a taxi to ferry me to the nearby seaport to board the mighty Norwegian Getaway cruise ship which is one of ‘big girls’ of the Norwegian Cruise Line company. So, what made me change my mind about cruising? Two major factors: for one the eight-day itinerary was a magical one looping around the Baltic Sea, making ports of call in six different countries Denmark, Germany, Estonia, Russia, Finland and Sweden after retuning back to Denmark. Secondly, the ship itself, I had read up, was nothing short of stunning.
This behemoth’s overall length is an impressive 1068.3ft, with its hull bearing a colourful mermaid mural by the famous Cuban-American artist David LeBatard. Rivalling any Mumbai skyscraper, it has 18 decks. With a capacity to accommodate 3,963 guests it’s a virtual floating city. And to take care of them all, the Getaway carries 1,646 crew members and staff.
Sailing the Baltic Sea for a good part of the year, this ship makes its way to the warmer climes of the Bahamas for a series of different Caribbean Sea itineraries for the winter.

Home Away From Home
Given my acute claustrophobia, I chose a cabin on deck 12 with a balcony and was given a super plush one at the very end of the ship in the aft section from where I could see nothing but the ocean as the ship cut a swathe through the cerulean waters of the Baltic Sea. On board, all my creature comforts were taken care of, from a well-stocked library to a fitness center to burn off all those post-indulgence calories at. And for a thoroughly relaxing time there was always the Mandara Spa on deck 15.
And while it does have the ‘expected of a cruise’ entertainment options like a casino, illusionists and musicals like Million Dollar Quartet on offer daily, the Getaway has what few others have. To begin with, the unique Rope’s Course on its topmost 18^th deck is a Pirates of the Carribbean-esque obstacle course where you can also ‘walk the plank’ on the wooden ledge that precariously teeters along the edge of the ship, dangling over the water.
The Getaway is even home to Svedka, the world’s first floating ice bar where drinks are served out of tumblers made from clear, crystal ice. But the piece de resistance has simply got to be the ultra-exclusive and posh The Haven. Now, this members-only zone housed on the top of the ship has its own luxurious accommodations including suites, private lounges and dining options, along with a personal concierge and 24-hour butler service. 
Speaking of F&B, the Getaway has 28 restaurants and bars, including an all-day buffet and a Brazilian churrascaria-style restaurant called Moderno. But my personal favourite throughout the cruise turned out to be Teppanyaki with its outstanding food and fun, interactive Teppanyaki chefs who made dining here always so full of entertainment and laughs.

A Few Magical Pit Stops
After leaving Denmark, our first stop was at the port of Warnemunde in Germany from where we boarded a train for a 2.5 hours journey to the fascinating city of Berlin. Our very exciting city tour of Berlin took in the top ten highlights of the city with photo stops made at the East Side Gallery, a 3/4 mile section of the Berlin Wall, Checkpoint Charlie and at the Bebelplatz, one of the most beautiful squares in the city. We even passed by Potsdamer Platz where the first hole in the Berlin Wall was made and which today is a block of glass and steel skyscrapers.
Tallinn, the sleepy, quaint little capital city of Estonia was our next stop where we first took an hour-long ride to the town of Rakvere, before exploring the main city. After a visit to the Citizen Museum, we made our way to the partially ruined, 13th century Rakvere Castle to see weapons, the Torture Chamber and Hell Chamber. At the entrance to the castle you’ll find an enormous sculpture of a bull called Tarvas, standing in guard of the town. A medieval lunch with Estonian beer was served to us in the castle restaurant where we also learnt about distilling in Estonia and we also got to sample Estonian spirits like schnapps and vodka. Back in Tallinn, our first stop was at the Tall Hermann Tower. We then walked through the Palace Square with the Parliament House of Estonia and the Russian Orthodox Church. The stroll then took us over the cobblestone lanes for an outside visit of the famous St. Mary’s Cathedral “Dome Church” from 1233 with panoramic viewpoints where we could even see our gigantic ship docked at the harbour!

Stunning St Petersburg
But among all the stops on the journey—and believe me there were many beautiful ones—the most magnificent one is the one I’ve saved for last. St Peteresburg. Our early morning tour took us outside of the city to the historical town of Pushkin as we drove through the Egyptian Gates, the entrance to the Tsar’s Village in Pushkin. Catherine’s Palace in the Tsar’s Village ranks as one of the masterpieces of world art. Peter the Great presented the estate to his wife Catherine in 1710 and on it, a small palace built by architect Braunstein. From this time until the time of the last Russian Tsar, Tsar’s Village was used as the summer residence of the Royal Family. In 1756, Bartelomeo Rastrelli expanded the palace in Baroque style. Its grandiose, white and gold facade stretches 978 feet.
The palace tour took us through the series of magnificent rooms, including the famous Picture Gallery, the Great Hall and the world famous Amber Room. The parks of the estate add to the splendor of the palace, and several of them are embellished with a number of charming pavilions. Interestingly, the town of Pushkin is famous not only for its remarkable palace and parks, but the man it was named after – Alexander Pushkin who was the most celebrated poet in the country and a resident of this town at the beginning of the 19th century.
After a quick lunch of Russian salad (yes, it’s very much a real Russian dish!), lamb stroganoff and a shot of vodka, we drove back to the city for a tour of the Hermitage Museum, the largest art museum in Russia and the most prestigious museum in the world that occupies the Winter Palace, the winter residence of the Russian Tsars and four more buildings.
A truly majestic end to an epic trip that has instilled in me the joy and lure of cruising like never before. A true ‘Getaway’ in more ways than one!

FACT FILE

Getting There
You will need to fly in to Copenhagen, Denmark, as one needs to board the Norwegian Getaway cruise ship from the port there. Though there are no direct flights from Mumbai to Copenhagen, you can connect via Paris, Munich or Dubai. There are several taxi companies that take you from the airport to the seaport in Copenhagen for around USD 65 one way.

Visas
As the ship makes ports of call in Germany, Estonia, Finland and Sweden, you will need a Danish Schengen visa for the cruise, as your first and last stop is Copenhagen and the same can be procured via the VFS service in Mumbai and across India. You don’t need a Russian visa for the St Petersburg stopover if you’ve booked an excursion with the cruise company.

When To Visit
There is little doubt that the glorious spring and summer months, from April to July, are the best times to embark onto this cruise journey.

For More Information Visit
* www.ncl.com

(A shorter, edited version of this article appeared in the 5th January 2018 issue of the Afternoon Despatch & Courier newspaper, India on page 20 http://www.afternoondc.in/48-hrs/cruise-control/article_212904)

Cruising Along!

(This article first appeared in the Janurary 2018 issue of Urbane magazine)

A-N-A-T-O-M-I-Z-E: The Norwegian Getaway

By Raul Dias

If you’re the kind of person for whom numbers matter, then prepared to be seriously impressed by this behemoth of a ship—the Norwegian Getaway. 1068.3ft is its overall length, with its hull bearing a colourful mermaid mural by the famous Cuban-American artist David LeBatard. 18 is the number of its decks. 3,963 is the number of guests it can accommodate. And no, that’s not accounting for the 1,646 crew members who keep this luxury cruise ship in... well, ship shape!
Sailing the Baltic Sea for a good part of the year, this ship by the Norwegian Cruise Line company makes ports of call at places like Helsinki, Tallinn and St. Petersburg among others, on an eight-day itinerary beginning and ending in Copenhagen. And when winter casts its freezing spell over the Baltic Sea, the ship makes its way to the warmer climes of the Bahamas for a series of different Caribbean Sea itineraries.
Besides the usual cruise tropes of Las Vegas style entertainment with a casino, illusionists and musicals like Million Dollar Quartet on offer daily, the Getaway has the unique Rope’s Course on its topmost 18^th deck. This Pirates of the Carribbean-esque obstacle course is where you can also ‘walk the plank’ on the wooden ledge that precariously teeters along the edge of the ship, dangling over the water.
Boasting of a spa and 28 restaurants and bars, including an all-day buffet, the ship pays obeisance to two of the biggest parts of the cruising experience—food and drink, the craving for which somehow always seems to be intensified when sailing! The Getaway is even home to Svedka, the world’s first floating ice bar where drinks are served out of tumblers made from clear, crystal ice.
However, the highlight of this vessel, that really sets it apart from the rest, is the ultra-exclusive and posh The Haven. This members-only zone housed on the top of the ship has its own luxurious accommodations including suites, private lounges and dining options, along with a personal concierge and 24-hour butler service. Kind of like having your own ship within a ship. Decadent, much?

(This column first appeared in the 29th October 2017 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 8 http://www.thehindu.com/society/the-norwegian-getaway/article19932523.ece)