(This article first appeared online on 1st November 2023 on Live Mint, India https://lifestyle.livemint.com/food/discover/food-day-of-the-dead-mexico-111698808010431.html)
Showing posts with label MEXICAN FOOD. Show all posts
Showing posts with label MEXICAN FOOD. Show all posts
Wednesday, November 1, 2023
Sunday, January 29, 2023
Mexican Cuisine
(This article first appeared in the 29th January 2023 issue of Deccan Herald newspaper's Sunday Herald section both in print and online here...
Friday, October 7, 2022
Nopales (Nagfani) Cactus makes its presence felt in India
(This article first appeared online on 6th October 2022 in Mint Lounge, India https://lifestyle.livemint.com/food/discover/how-to-eat-and-relish-cactus-111665041164797.html)
Wednesday, July 6, 2022
Kai red ant chutney of Odisha
(This article first appeared online on 6th July 2022 on ZeeZest https://zeezest.com/preview/stories/odisha-applies-for-gi-tag-for-the-ant-chutney-zee-zest-2021)
Thursday, February 17, 2022
10 DIY Food Kits
Friday, January 14, 2022
Mid-Town Master Chefs
Monday, May 10, 2021
Taste Test: Mexibay
An edited version of this review appeared in the 10th May 2021 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India https://www.mid-day.com/mumbai-guide/mumbai-food/article/midnight-mexican-fix-23172538
Sunday, April 25, 2021
5 Of Mumbai's Best Mexican Delivery Places
Tuesday, October 8, 2019
Small is beautiful!
Debuting with a menu dominated by small plates and fruity Latino-inspired cocktails, this modest-sized Khar tapas bar and café makes a big first impression.
By Raul Dias
“According to chemistry, alcohol is a solution!” Now, while we may or may not subscribe to that pun-ridden idiom, we simply could not ignore those chuckle-inducing words scrawled across the scarlet painted wall in front of us. On a recent post-monsoon afternoon with the blazing sun at its zenith, we sauntered into the brand new Poco Loco nestled on Khar West’s busy S.V. Road.
Our aim was two-pronged: to get some much-needed airconditioned respite and to sample some small plates and cocktails that seem to be the mainstay of this café-cum-tapas bar from the people behind the super-popular Shatranj Napoli that’s also in Khar. Done up in dark, brooding shades of maroon and purple, accentuated by dull gold hardware, and another wall featuring a quirky periodic table of cocktails, the smallish space is both chic and whimsical at the same time.
Sidling up to the bar, we ordered the espuma de maracuyá (Rs 400), a deceptively potent fruity cocktail that’s the happy coupling of a liberal pour of gin with fresh passionfruit purée, all tarted up with a dash of lime juice. We paired the drink with our first tapas plate of gambas al ajillo (Rs 400), with around five medium sized prawns sitting in an earthen bowl and dunked in olive oil flavoured with crisp slivers of fried garlic. This was also served with crusty homemade bread (as our attentive served pointed out) to mop up the accompanying spicy, almost neon orange Canarian mojo chili sauce—a popular condiment from Spain’s Canary Islands.
Unable to resist the lure of one of our favourite tapas stars—patatas bravas (Rs 180), we called for a portion. And we weren’t disappointed with what our lunch companion referred to as “Spanish aloo chaat” that sees irregular cubes of fried, seasoned potatoes slathered in a tangy garlic mayonnaise dressing. Continuing the tapas leitmotif of our relaxed afternoon meal, we found ourselves devouring six generously plump croquetas de pollo (Rs 350) with the creaminess of the white sauce-enriched chicken mince croquettes spiced with a hint of paprika pimentone.
Adding some heft to our otherwise small plate-dominated meal, the tasty Tex-Mex style lamb burrito (Rs 375) was jam-packed with juicy, shredded lamb, black beans, and rice. All this enrobed by a flour tortilla with its supporting acts of cooling guacamole, salsa rojo, sour cream and a cheese sauce that had split slightly and not as unctuous as we had hoped. And thus, the only minor aberration to an otherwise superlative experience.
Choosing to stay back in Mexico for our desserts, the beautifully presented tres leches (Rs 300) lived up to its three-milks-for-the-price-of-one claim to fame. Its evaporated milk-saturated vanilla cake component topped perfectly with a cloud of whipped cream and a duo of edible nasturtium flowers, made us promise ourselves a round two at Poco Loco on another sunny day. Soon!
AT: Poco Loco, ground floor, Navish House, S.V. Road, Khar West.
TIME: 12.30 pm to 1.30 am
CALL: 9324191366
(An edited version of this review appeared in the 8th October 2019 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 22 https://www.mid-day.com/articles/small-is-beautiful/21870167)
By Raul Dias
“According to chemistry, alcohol is a solution!” Now, while we may or may not subscribe to that pun-ridden idiom, we simply could not ignore those chuckle-inducing words scrawled across the scarlet painted wall in front of us. On a recent post-monsoon afternoon with the blazing sun at its zenith, we sauntered into the brand new Poco Loco nestled on Khar West’s busy S.V. Road.
Our aim was two-pronged: to get some much-needed airconditioned respite and to sample some small plates and cocktails that seem to be the mainstay of this café-cum-tapas bar from the people behind the super-popular Shatranj Napoli that’s also in Khar. Done up in dark, brooding shades of maroon and purple, accentuated by dull gold hardware, and another wall featuring a quirky periodic table of cocktails, the smallish space is both chic and whimsical at the same time.
Sidling up to the bar, we ordered the espuma de maracuyá (Rs 400), a deceptively potent fruity cocktail that’s the happy coupling of a liberal pour of gin with fresh passionfruit purée, all tarted up with a dash of lime juice. We paired the drink with our first tapas plate of gambas al ajillo (Rs 400), with around five medium sized prawns sitting in an earthen bowl and dunked in olive oil flavoured with crisp slivers of fried garlic. This was also served with crusty homemade bread (as our attentive served pointed out) to mop up the accompanying spicy, almost neon orange Canarian mojo chili sauce—a popular condiment from Spain’s Canary Islands.
Unable to resist the lure of one of our favourite tapas stars—patatas bravas (Rs 180), we called for a portion. And we weren’t disappointed with what our lunch companion referred to as “Spanish aloo chaat” that sees irregular cubes of fried, seasoned potatoes slathered in a tangy garlic mayonnaise dressing. Continuing the tapas leitmotif of our relaxed afternoon meal, we found ourselves devouring six generously plump croquetas de pollo (Rs 350) with the creaminess of the white sauce-enriched chicken mince croquettes spiced with a hint of paprika pimentone.
Adding some heft to our otherwise small plate-dominated meal, the tasty Tex-Mex style lamb burrito (Rs 375) was jam-packed with juicy, shredded lamb, black beans, and rice. All this enrobed by a flour tortilla with its supporting acts of cooling guacamole, salsa rojo, sour cream and a cheese sauce that had split slightly and not as unctuous as we had hoped. And thus, the only minor aberration to an otherwise superlative experience.
Choosing to stay back in Mexico for our desserts, the beautifully presented tres leches (Rs 300) lived up to its three-milks-for-the-price-of-one claim to fame. Its evaporated milk-saturated vanilla cake component topped perfectly with a cloud of whipped cream and a duo of edible nasturtium flowers, made us promise ourselves a round two at Poco Loco on another sunny day. Soon!
AT: Poco Loco, ground floor, Navish House, S.V. Road, Khar West.
TIME: 12.30 pm to 1.30 am
CALL: 9324191366
(An edited version of this review appeared in the 8th October 2019 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 22 https://www.mid-day.com/articles/small-is-beautiful/21870167)
Tuesday, December 4, 2018
10 Reasons to Do Mexico!
From its mystery-shrouded ancient sites and hedonistic seaside havens to some of the best food and art that will leave you spellbound, Mexico has a lot on offer for the intrepid traveller. We bring you our top 10 reasons why this vibrant Central American nation should feature on your travel bucket list for 2019.
By Raul Dias
1. Pre-Columbian wonders
It is safe to say that Mexico has the greatest concentration of some of the most stunning manmade structures of the ancient world. Just 50km form Mexico City in the ancient Aztec site of Teotihuacán, the two giant pyramids of the Avenue of the Dead and the Temple of Quetzalcóatl stand out in their magnificence. Another must-visit is the great pyramid of Cobá called Nohoch Mul which is the highest Mayan building on the Yucátan Peninsula. Still in the Yucátan, make sure to pay obeisance at the time temple of El Castillo at Chichén Itza to know what communing with divinity feels like.
2. Vibrant festivals
Perhaps one of the few countries in the world, where death is celebrated with so much fervour, come early November and Mexico puts on a ‘spooktacular show’ for the Day of the Dead or Dia de Muertos. Luridly coloured, jazzed up candy skulls, ghoul face-painted revellers and effigies of La Calavera Catrina (the seductive female skeleton) can be seen everywhere. Interestingly, unlike other popular festivals like Semana Santa, La Morisma and Carnaval, Dia de Muertos is not only a Catholic festival, but also one that is celebrated by indigenous communities like the Purépecha of Michaocán who spend the night partying at graveyards. Speaking of indigenous festivals, others like the grand vernal and autumnal equinox festivals are celebrated at the revered Chichén Itza site in March and September respectively.
3. More than just tacos!
While the much-worshipped corn dough or masa may be the lynchpin for most dishes that come under the ambit of what we recognise as being Mexican cuisine—with the ubiquitous tacos and quesadillas being the most famous exports—there is a whole treasure trove of hidden edible delights, that will make your gastronomic quest in Mexico a rewarding one. Regional dishes like the pre-Columbian, orange juice-marinated roast meat cochinita pibil from the Yucatán Peninsula, pescado zarandeado or grilled fish wrapped in banana leaf from Nayarit and the zesty, hominy-rich pozole soup from Jalisco are sure to up the exotic foods ante, if that’s what you’re looking for. For the true-blue adventurous palate, there are plenty of surprises in the form of San Luis Potosi’s flower of the barrel cactus dish called cabuches or perhaps armadillo en adobo where the name says it all!
4. Sun, sea and surf
Coastal Mexico is that kind of a place where every single one of your beach-related fantasies come alive! Think sipping potent pina coladas at a palm frond-thatched bar or enjoying an afternoon siesta snugly ensconced in a cabana and they all come to fruition at some of the country’s best beach resort destinations. Iconic places like Cancun where the sand is the softest or Playa Maruata whose Michoacán Beach is infested with black sea turtles are just a few. Jutting out like a long limb, the Baja California Peninsula is home to the famed Cabo San Lucas, a resort city at its southern tip which is the perfect spot to indulge in adventure sports like surfing and snorkelling and post that, some hardcore nightlife at its world-class clubs.
5. Drinks that defy convention
Long before the world and its best friend went berserk over the blue agave-produced tequila and its close cousin mezcal, the ancient Mexicans got their kick from indigenous drinks like atole. Made by boiling corn in milk or water and then sweetened with either sugar or piloncillo (a cane sweetener), atole is a fermented drink that’s very popular in Mexico to this day. Another indigenous drink from the region of Veracruz, aguardiente, which literally means ‘fiery water’ is an unrefined alcoholic drink that’s truly for the adventurous. Want to stay off the sauce? Available at almost every street-side corner around Mexico are a range of icy, fruit-based drinks called agua frescas where the tamarind flavoured one trumps all. Made from rice, almonds and cinnamon, horchata is another unusual, but yummy drink as is the spicy, sugar-free Mexican hot chocolate made from dairy-free dark chocolate that’s often spiked with chilli.
6. Art for all!
There is little doubt that at the very forefront of Mexico’s dynamics art scene is the enigmatic couple, Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera. While the former’s bold and colourful pieces can be found superbly curated at Mexico City’s Museo Frida Kahlo, Rivera’s great murals that show a slice of the country’s history and cultural identity are best represented at the Secretaria de Educacion Publica and at the Palacio National, both also in Mexico City. Head out to Capula at the foothills of Michoacán for an eyeful of the weird and wonderful sculptures at artist Juan Torres’ property. For some pre-Hispanic art, check out the Olmec Heads in the Gulf of Mexico that date back to 900BC.
7. Mayan Mexico
Wielding perhaps the greatest clout of all of ancient Mexico’s civilisations, the Mayan influence on the country is best celebrated at places like Tulum and Palenque with its exquisite palaces, tombs and temples decorated with carvings and paintings. For a glimpse of modern day Mayan life (yes, it exists) take a detour to the mountain town of San Cristóbal de Las Casas which is surrounded by traditional modern Mayan villages that we swear aren’t oxymorons!
8. Nature’s bounty
Not many would know this, but seven of the eight species of sea turtle in the world nest along Mexico’s beaches, making turtle conservation sanctuaries like El Tortugario near Cuyutlán a must visit. The cactus forest of the Zapotitlán Salinas zone of the Tehuacán-Cuicatlán Biosphere Reserve shows you just how important cacti are to Mexican culture. But if there is one place we would recommend you devote all your nature love to, then that would have to be to the bright blue Agua Azul waterfalls on the Xanil River in the southern Mexican state of Chiapas.
9. Colonial vestiges
Bringing to Central America a decidedly European flair are Mexico’s colonial strongholds like Puebla and Monterrey with their well-preserved zocalos (town squares), churches and world class museums. Other places like Zacatecas on the edge of the northern desert with its brilliant colonial architecture and the walled city of Campeche famous for its bastions that once defended the city from pirates should feature on your colonial Mexico itinerary.
10. The sporty side of life
Known as fútbol, soccer is the de facto national sport where the national team El Tri (the tricolour) are revered like Gods. Check out a match at Mexico City’s Estadio Axteca and soak up the unbridled passion that the fans display. Borrowed from their northern neighbour, USA, baseball too is a very popular sport with the two strongest clubs being the Tomateros and the Naranjeros. Popular in the north of the country, charreadas or rodeos are fun as are the highly dramatised lucha libre wrestling matches held all over Mexico. But if there is one sport that you won’t find anywhere else in the world then that would have to be the Mesoamerican indigenous game of ulama as it is called in Sinaloa, where a rubber ball is meant to be kept off the ground by two teams by all means. And yes, the operative words here being ‘all means’!
By Raul Dias
1. Pre-Columbian wonders
It is safe to say that Mexico has the greatest concentration of some of the most stunning manmade structures of the ancient world. Just 50km form Mexico City in the ancient Aztec site of Teotihuacán, the two giant pyramids of the Avenue of the Dead and the Temple of Quetzalcóatl stand out in their magnificence. Another must-visit is the great pyramid of Cobá called Nohoch Mul which is the highest Mayan building on the Yucátan Peninsula. Still in the Yucátan, make sure to pay obeisance at the time temple of El Castillo at Chichén Itza to know what communing with divinity feels like.
2. Vibrant festivals
Perhaps one of the few countries in the world, where death is celebrated with so much fervour, come early November and Mexico puts on a ‘spooktacular show’ for the Day of the Dead or Dia de Muertos. Luridly coloured, jazzed up candy skulls, ghoul face-painted revellers and effigies of La Calavera Catrina (the seductive female skeleton) can be seen everywhere. Interestingly, unlike other popular festivals like Semana Santa, La Morisma and Carnaval, Dia de Muertos is not only a Catholic festival, but also one that is celebrated by indigenous communities like the Purépecha of Michaocán who spend the night partying at graveyards. Speaking of indigenous festivals, others like the grand vernal and autumnal equinox festivals are celebrated at the revered Chichén Itza site in March and September respectively.
3. More than just tacos!
While the much-worshipped corn dough or masa may be the lynchpin for most dishes that come under the ambit of what we recognise as being Mexican cuisine—with the ubiquitous tacos and quesadillas being the most famous exports—there is a whole treasure trove of hidden edible delights, that will make your gastronomic quest in Mexico a rewarding one. Regional dishes like the pre-Columbian, orange juice-marinated roast meat cochinita pibil from the Yucatán Peninsula, pescado zarandeado or grilled fish wrapped in banana leaf from Nayarit and the zesty, hominy-rich pozole soup from Jalisco are sure to up the exotic foods ante, if that’s what you’re looking for. For the true-blue adventurous palate, there are plenty of surprises in the form of San Luis Potosi’s flower of the barrel cactus dish called cabuches or perhaps armadillo en adobo where the name says it all!
4. Sun, sea and surf
Coastal Mexico is that kind of a place where every single one of your beach-related fantasies come alive! Think sipping potent pina coladas at a palm frond-thatched bar or enjoying an afternoon siesta snugly ensconced in a cabana and they all come to fruition at some of the country’s best beach resort destinations. Iconic places like Cancun where the sand is the softest or Playa Maruata whose Michoacán Beach is infested with black sea turtles are just a few. Jutting out like a long limb, the Baja California Peninsula is home to the famed Cabo San Lucas, a resort city at its southern tip which is the perfect spot to indulge in adventure sports like surfing and snorkelling and post that, some hardcore nightlife at its world-class clubs.
5. Drinks that defy convention
Long before the world and its best friend went berserk over the blue agave-produced tequila and its close cousin mezcal, the ancient Mexicans got their kick from indigenous drinks like atole. Made by boiling corn in milk or water and then sweetened with either sugar or piloncillo (a cane sweetener), atole is a fermented drink that’s very popular in Mexico to this day. Another indigenous drink from the region of Veracruz, aguardiente, which literally means ‘fiery water’ is an unrefined alcoholic drink that’s truly for the adventurous. Want to stay off the sauce? Available at almost every street-side corner around Mexico are a range of icy, fruit-based drinks called agua frescas where the tamarind flavoured one trumps all. Made from rice, almonds and cinnamon, horchata is another unusual, but yummy drink as is the spicy, sugar-free Mexican hot chocolate made from dairy-free dark chocolate that’s often spiked with chilli.
6. Art for all!
There is little doubt that at the very forefront of Mexico’s dynamics art scene is the enigmatic couple, Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera. While the former’s bold and colourful pieces can be found superbly curated at Mexico City’s Museo Frida Kahlo, Rivera’s great murals that show a slice of the country’s history and cultural identity are best represented at the Secretaria de Educacion Publica and at the Palacio National, both also in Mexico City. Head out to Capula at the foothills of Michoacán for an eyeful of the weird and wonderful sculptures at artist Juan Torres’ property. For some pre-Hispanic art, check out the Olmec Heads in the Gulf of Mexico that date back to 900BC.
7. Mayan Mexico
Wielding perhaps the greatest clout of all of ancient Mexico’s civilisations, the Mayan influence on the country is best celebrated at places like Tulum and Palenque with its exquisite palaces, tombs and temples decorated with carvings and paintings. For a glimpse of modern day Mayan life (yes, it exists) take a detour to the mountain town of San Cristóbal de Las Casas which is surrounded by traditional modern Mayan villages that we swear aren’t oxymorons!
8. Nature’s bounty
Not many would know this, but seven of the eight species of sea turtle in the world nest along Mexico’s beaches, making turtle conservation sanctuaries like El Tortugario near Cuyutlán a must visit. The cactus forest of the Zapotitlán Salinas zone of the Tehuacán-Cuicatlán Biosphere Reserve shows you just how important cacti are to Mexican culture. But if there is one place we would recommend you devote all your nature love to, then that would have to be to the bright blue Agua Azul waterfalls on the Xanil River in the southern Mexican state of Chiapas.
9. Colonial vestiges
Bringing to Central America a decidedly European flair are Mexico’s colonial strongholds like Puebla and Monterrey with their well-preserved zocalos (town squares), churches and world class museums. Other places like Zacatecas on the edge of the northern desert with its brilliant colonial architecture and the walled city of Campeche famous for its bastions that once defended the city from pirates should feature on your colonial Mexico itinerary.
10. The sporty side of life
Known as fútbol, soccer is the de facto national sport where the national team El Tri (the tricolour) are revered like Gods. Check out a match at Mexico City’s Estadio Axteca and soak up the unbridled passion that the fans display. Borrowed from their northern neighbour, USA, baseball too is a very popular sport with the two strongest clubs being the Tomateros and the Naranjeros. Popular in the north of the country, charreadas or rodeos are fun as are the highly dramatised lucha libre wrestling matches held all over Mexico. But if there is one sport that you won’t find anywhere else in the world then that would have to be the Mesoamerican indigenous game of ulama as it is called in Sinaloa, where a rubber ball is meant to be kept off the ground by two teams by all means. And yes, the operative words here being ‘all means’!
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the December 2018 issue of Jetwings Domestic in-flight magazine of Jet Airways http://www.jetairways.com/EN/IN/jetexperience/magazines.aspx)
Thursday, October 4, 2018
Between Breads
From its frugal beginnings—when it was put together by
the 4th Earl of Sandwich as a quick-n-easy hunting trip snack to its
various gourmet avatars available today—the ubiquitous sandwich sure has come a
long way. As gourmands across the world prepare to celebrate the annual
International Sandwich Day on the 3rd of November, we bring you a
serving of a few famous sandwiches from around the world
By Raul Dias
The
Philly Cheesesteak, USA
As its name suggests, this iconic submarine-style sandwich has its origins in the state of Philadelphia and the city of Boston to be more specific. So, what we have here is a long hoagie bread roll holding within its soft center, thinly sliced slivers of meat and grilled sweet, white onions all slathered with the luridly yellow coloured Cheese Whiz cheese sauce. And while the rest of America and even the world has produced several, rather ersatz iterations of the Philly Cheesesteak sandwich, the original is a true-blue Bostonian. Right down to legendary ‘war’ between two rival cheesesteak sandwich shops Pat’s and Geno’s, located bang opposite each other at the triangular intersection of 9th St, Wharton St and Passyunk Ave. in the city’s South Philly neighbourhood.
As its name suggests, this iconic submarine-style sandwich has its origins in the state of Philadelphia and the city of Boston to be more specific. So, what we have here is a long hoagie bread roll holding within its soft center, thinly sliced slivers of meat and grilled sweet, white onions all slathered with the luridly yellow coloured Cheese Whiz cheese sauce. And while the rest of America and even the world has produced several, rather ersatz iterations of the Philly Cheesesteak sandwich, the original is a true-blue Bostonian. Right down to legendary ‘war’ between two rival cheesesteak sandwich shops Pat’s and Geno’s, located bang opposite each other at the triangular intersection of 9th St, Wharton St and Passyunk Ave. in the city’s South Philly neighbourhood.
The
Bánh Mì, Vietnam
As a lasting ‘legacy’ of its French colonial past, Vietnam’s most iconic street-side snack the Bánh Mì has more than a few elements that reference the, well…French connection! A mini French baguette also called a bánh mì is split lengthwise and layered with a fusion of meats and vegetables from Vietnamese cuisine such as chả lụa sausage, fresh coriander, cucumber ribbons, and pickled carrots and daikon radish, combined with condiments from French cuisine such as pâté along with jalapeño chillies and a sweet-spicy mayonnaise. A typical Saigon dish, the Bánh Mì came into being after the 1954 Partition of Vietnam when migrants moved from North Vietnam to South Vietnam, putting their stamp on Saigon’s local cuisine. Today, one of the best places in Ho Chi Minh City, as Saigon is known as today, to try a Bánh Mì is at the Bánh Mì Bùi Thị Xuân restaurant in the Phạm Ngũ Lão backpacker ghetto.
As a lasting ‘legacy’ of its French colonial past, Vietnam’s most iconic street-side snack the Bánh Mì has more than a few elements that reference the, well…French connection! A mini French baguette also called a bánh mì is split lengthwise and layered with a fusion of meats and vegetables from Vietnamese cuisine such as chả lụa sausage, fresh coriander, cucumber ribbons, and pickled carrots and daikon radish, combined with condiments from French cuisine such as pâté along with jalapeño chillies and a sweet-spicy mayonnaise. A typical Saigon dish, the Bánh Mì came into being after the 1954 Partition of Vietnam when migrants moved from North Vietnam to South Vietnam, putting their stamp on Saigon’s local cuisine. Today, one of the best places in Ho Chi Minh City, as Saigon is known as today, to try a Bánh Mì is at the Bánh Mì Bùi Thị Xuân restaurant in the Phạm Ngũ Lão backpacker ghetto.
The
Torta Ahogada, Mexico
Like most great sandwiches, the Torta Ahogada has extremely humble underpinnings as a working man’s lunch. Here the porous, yet firm birote bread which has a thick, crunchy crust and softer interior is filled with slices of fried meat or chicken along with cheese and beans. The sandwich is then dunked into a vat of sauce made from vinegar, arbol chilies, garlic, oregano, and other spices and served in its soggy state with a side of tortillas, onion rings and slices of cooling avocado. Invented in the early 1900s in the Mexican city of Gudalajara—with the word ‘torta’ meaning sandwich and ‘agohada’ meaning drowned—several theories abound as to its genesis. One such belief is that the sandwich maker accidentally dropped his freshly made torta into a pan of chilli salsa and his customer loved it so much he kept repeating his ‘mistake’ to remarkable success. But whatever be its origins, one thing is clear: this spicy, messy sandwich is a multisensory treat!
Like most great sandwiches, the Torta Ahogada has extremely humble underpinnings as a working man’s lunch. Here the porous, yet firm birote bread which has a thick, crunchy crust and softer interior is filled with slices of fried meat or chicken along with cheese and beans. The sandwich is then dunked into a vat of sauce made from vinegar, arbol chilies, garlic, oregano, and other spices and served in its soggy state with a side of tortillas, onion rings and slices of cooling avocado. Invented in the early 1900s in the Mexican city of Gudalajara—with the word ‘torta’ meaning sandwich and ‘agohada’ meaning drowned—several theories abound as to its genesis. One such belief is that the sandwich maker accidentally dropped his freshly made torta into a pan of chilli salsa and his customer loved it so much he kept repeating his ‘mistake’ to remarkable success. But whatever be its origins, one thing is clear: this spicy, messy sandwich is a multisensory treat!
The
Balik Ekmek, Turkey
One of the best things about this humble fish sandwich called Balik Ekmek (literally meaning “fish bread”) is that you don’t have to look too hard to find one to treat yourself with when in the Turkish capital of Istanbul. Simply let your olfactory senses lead you to the nearest boat selling this street…err, we mean waterside delicacy! On either sides of the city’s mighty Galata Bridge, in the waterfront neighbourhoods of Eminonu and Karakoy, you can find boats lined up with makeshift grills set up on them dispensing these yummy treats for around 5 Turkish Lira (Rs 56) a piece. What you’ll get is a sturdy round Turkish bread stuffed with a deboned filet of either grilled or fried oily fish such as sardines or mackerel topped with hot sauce and accompanied by sides of raw onion rings, radish, lettuce and a wedge of lemon.
One of the best things about this humble fish sandwich called Balik Ekmek (literally meaning “fish bread”) is that you don’t have to look too hard to find one to treat yourself with when in the Turkish capital of Istanbul. Simply let your olfactory senses lead you to the nearest boat selling this street…err, we mean waterside delicacy! On either sides of the city’s mighty Galata Bridge, in the waterfront neighbourhoods of Eminonu and Karakoy, you can find boats lined up with makeshift grills set up on them dispensing these yummy treats for around 5 Turkish Lira (Rs 56) a piece. What you’ll get is a sturdy round Turkish bread stuffed with a deboned filet of either grilled or fried oily fish such as sardines or mackerel topped with hot sauce and accompanied by sides of raw onion rings, radish, lettuce and a wedge of lemon.
The
Chip Butty, UK
While this aberration of a sandwich might sound like a carb-on-carb keto diet nightmare, let us assure you that one bite of this classic, yet insanely simple British sandwich and you’ll surrender to its charms. Known as a ‘butty’ in the local vernacular, a sandwich is that quintessential British snack whose avatars are numerous, from the dainty cucumber and watercress ones to the cholesterol-rich bacon butty. For a chip butty, you’ll need to pile on two slices of buttered, thick white sandwich bread with another classic, chips—that we know of as thick cut fries—and slather it all with bright red pumpkin and tomato ketchup. And voila, you’ll be staring down at a typical post binge drinking treat that can be found at almost any fish and chip shop across the country.
While this aberration of a sandwich might sound like a carb-on-carb keto diet nightmare, let us assure you that one bite of this classic, yet insanely simple British sandwich and you’ll surrender to its charms. Known as a ‘butty’ in the local vernacular, a sandwich is that quintessential British snack whose avatars are numerous, from the dainty cucumber and watercress ones to the cholesterol-rich bacon butty. For a chip butty, you’ll need to pile on two slices of buttered, thick white sandwich bread with another classic, chips—that we know of as thick cut fries—and slather it all with bright red pumpkin and tomato ketchup. And voila, you’ll be staring down at a typical post binge drinking treat that can be found at almost any fish and chip shop across the country.
The
Po’ Boy, USA
Shrimp, crawfish, lobster, oyster you name it and it can be found in a typically New Orleans, Louisiana style Po’ Boy sandwich. A corruption of the term ‘poor boy’ as it was the most preferred meal of the striking streetcar conductors in 1929, the sandwich evolved from the1800s fried oyster sandwiches on French loaves to include any breaded, deep-fried mollusc or crustacean loaded onto French bread and dressed with lettuce, tomato, pickles, and mayonnaise. Though essentially a seafood sandwich, places like Texas have been known to put own their spin on a Po’ Boy with versions that come stuffed with BBQ meat and chicken. But for the real deal, head down to joints like Avery’s On Tulane along New Orleans’ Tulane Ave. for a taste of the divine that defies explanation.
Shrimp, crawfish, lobster, oyster you name it and it can be found in a typically New Orleans, Louisiana style Po’ Boy sandwich. A corruption of the term ‘poor boy’ as it was the most preferred meal of the striking streetcar conductors in 1929, the sandwich evolved from the1800s fried oyster sandwiches on French loaves to include any breaded, deep-fried mollusc or crustacean loaded onto French bread and dressed with lettuce, tomato, pickles, and mayonnaise. Though essentially a seafood sandwich, places like Texas have been known to put own their spin on a Po’ Boy with versions that come stuffed with BBQ meat and chicken. But for the real deal, head down to joints like Avery’s On Tulane along New Orleans’ Tulane Ave. for a taste of the divine that defies explanation.
The
Smørrebrød, Denmark
Proving to the world of casual cuisine that a sandwich isn’t always about two pieces of bread holding forth fillings, this Danish classic open-faced sandwich may be a mouthful to pronounce, but the sheer mind-boggling varieties of Smørrebrød will leave you salivating. A typical Smørrebrød is usually constructed out of a slice of buttered rye bread called rugbrød, known for its dense crumb and deep brown hue. Called pålæg, which translates as “lay-on”, the toppings range from cold cuts, slivers of meat or fish, cheese or spreads. But hands down the most popular of all pålæg has got to be cured salmon called gravad laks that’s further topped off with a frond of dill, a splodge of sweet mayonnaise and sent off with a squirt of lemon juice.
Proving to the world of casual cuisine that a sandwich isn’t always about two pieces of bread holding forth fillings, this Danish classic open-faced sandwich may be a mouthful to pronounce, but the sheer mind-boggling varieties of Smørrebrød will leave you salivating. A typical Smørrebrød is usually constructed out of a slice of buttered rye bread called rugbrød, known for its dense crumb and deep brown hue. Called pålæg, which translates as “lay-on”, the toppings range from cold cuts, slivers of meat or fish, cheese or spreads. But hands down the most popular of all pålæg has got to be cured salmon called gravad laks that’s further topped off with a frond of dill, a splodge of sweet mayonnaise and sent off with a squirt of lemon juice.
Oddities
of the Sandwich World
* At $214 a pop, the title of the World’s Most Expensive Sandwich would have to go to “The Quintessential Grilled Cheese Sandwich,” that’s made by New York City’s legendary Serendipity 3 restaurant. Besides holding unfathomable bragging rights within its folds, the sandwich is made up of two slices of French bread that has Dom Perignon champagne and 23-karat gold baked into it. It is stuffed with caciocavallo podolico, a rare cheese imported from southern Italy and brushed with white truffle oil and gold leaf before it meets the grill.
* Ever heard of the ‘Candwich’? An American company produces these rather bizarre sandwiches in a can! Yes, each tin contains a bread roll and an assortment of flavours, including Peanut Butter and Jelly and Honey BBQ chicken. ‘nuff said.
* As an homage to the King of Rock and Roll, Elvis Presley, The Elvis sandwich is stuffed with an odd assortment of ingredients Elvis was particularly partial to all his life. So, we have peanut butter, banana and bacon ensconced within slices of commercial white bread and grilled with dollops of butter slathered onto the whole thing.
* In Japan, one of the most popular kinds of sandwiches is the Fruit Sando where sweet, soft white cake-like bread is stuffed with whipped cream and a whole ‘orchard’ of fruits from the most popular being strawberries to the downright strange persimmon and musk melon.
* At $214 a pop, the title of the World’s Most Expensive Sandwich would have to go to “The Quintessential Grilled Cheese Sandwich,” that’s made by New York City’s legendary Serendipity 3 restaurant. Besides holding unfathomable bragging rights within its folds, the sandwich is made up of two slices of French bread that has Dom Perignon champagne and 23-karat gold baked into it. It is stuffed with caciocavallo podolico, a rare cheese imported from southern Italy and brushed with white truffle oil and gold leaf before it meets the grill.
* Ever heard of the ‘Candwich’? An American company produces these rather bizarre sandwiches in a can! Yes, each tin contains a bread roll and an assortment of flavours, including Peanut Butter and Jelly and Honey BBQ chicken. ‘nuff said.
* As an homage to the King of Rock and Roll, Elvis Presley, The Elvis sandwich is stuffed with an odd assortment of ingredients Elvis was particularly partial to all his life. So, we have peanut butter, banana and bacon ensconced within slices of commercial white bread and grilled with dollops of butter slathered onto the whole thing.
* In Japan, one of the most popular kinds of sandwiches is the Fruit Sando where sweet, soft white cake-like bread is stuffed with whipped cream and a whole ‘orchard’ of fruits from the most popular being strawberries to the downright strange persimmon and musk melon.
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the October 2018 issue of Jetwings Domestic in-flight magazine of Jet Airways http://www.jetairways.com/EN/IN/jetexperience/magazines.aspx)
Tuesday, July 3, 2018
Puebla: Mexico’s Cultural Bastion
Often regarded as the quieter, more pious sibling of
Mexico City, Puebla, nestled in the heart of Mexico is undoubtedly the
country’s cultural stronghold with its wondrous churches, world-class museums
and a vibe that’s relaxed and easy-going.
By Raul Dias
“So, you want a ticket to Los Angeles?”, said the
petite lady at Mexico City’s TAPO bus station with a twinkle in her eyes. “No,
Puebla!”, I replied. Wondering firstly, how could I have said ‘Los Angeles’ in
place of ‘Puebla’? And secondly, a bus journey from Mexico City all the way to
LA! Seriously? But as I was soon to learn, the ticket lady was merely playing
her well-practised gringo (foreigner)
prank on me with a half-truth.
Technically called Puebla de los Angeles, most refer to this cultural stronghold of Mexico simply by the first word of its four-part name—Puebla. And a two-hour ride in a souped-up bus blaring Mexican pop music got me into this calm and collected city that was once the country’s second biggest after the capital Mexico City. It was only in the late 19th century that the more tourist-friendly, mariachi music capital of Guadalajara beat it to the chase.
Technically called Puebla de los Angeles, most refer to this cultural stronghold of Mexico simply by the first word of its four-part name—Puebla. And a two-hour ride in a souped-up bus blaring Mexican pop music got me into this calm and collected city that was once the country’s second biggest after the capital Mexico City. It was only in the late 19th century that the more tourist-friendly, mariachi music capital of Guadalajara beat it to the chase.
Lost
and Found!
Blame it on the beauty of Puebla that had me mesmerised, or simply on the language barrier, but neither my combi driver nor I had realised that we had driven past my intended stop, the town square called the zocalo. I had hopped into his fume-spewing vehicle a good half an hour ago, after my intercity bus had deposited me at Puebla’s strangely quiet CAPU bus station. And by now we were way out of the historic center.
To be more precise, I was very close to something I had heard about but had no intention of visiting—Africam Safari. This self-drive through faux safari park is on the road to Presa Valesquillo and is said to be home to a number of native and exotic wildlife. Quickly hailing a passing taxi, whose driver thankfully spoke a bit of English, I headed back down the road towards my intended stop.
Dotted with a cornucopia of cafés and restaurants, with canoodling couples, buskers and balloon sellers aplenty, the zocalo is akin to a circus on steroids and perhaps the only place where Puebla sheds its ‘calm cloak’. No wonder then that it was once the city’s main marketplace where everything from bullfights to public executions took place—often at the same time! Today, this tree-lined square is where the weekly Thursday changing of the flag ceremony takes place amidst great nationalistic fervour.
Blame it on the beauty of Puebla that had me mesmerised, or simply on the language barrier, but neither my combi driver nor I had realised that we had driven past my intended stop, the town square called the zocalo. I had hopped into his fume-spewing vehicle a good half an hour ago, after my intercity bus had deposited me at Puebla’s strangely quiet CAPU bus station. And by now we were way out of the historic center.
To be more precise, I was very close to something I had heard about but had no intention of visiting—Africam Safari. This self-drive through faux safari park is on the road to Presa Valesquillo and is said to be home to a number of native and exotic wildlife. Quickly hailing a passing taxi, whose driver thankfully spoke a bit of English, I headed back down the road towards my intended stop.
Dotted with a cornucopia of cafés and restaurants, with canoodling couples, buskers and balloon sellers aplenty, the zocalo is akin to a circus on steroids and perhaps the only place where Puebla sheds its ‘calm cloak’. No wonder then that it was once the city’s main marketplace where everything from bullfights to public executions took place—often at the same time! Today, this tree-lined square is where the weekly Thursday changing of the flag ceremony takes place amidst great nationalistic fervour.
City
of Churches
There simply is no denying the fact that Puebla truly is Mexico’s most pious city with its denizens, the criollo poblanos often being accused of having a holier-than-thou attitude, both literally and metaphorically. In fact, there is a famous (if a tad exaggerated!) saying that Peubla has 365 churches, with one for every day of the year. But in reality, it’s a more conservative number of 70 that dot the Centro Historico or historic center.
And this fact was reiterated to me time and again as I sauntered through its cobblestoned alleys and lanes dotted with buildings clad in the colourful azulejo-style tiles. I made my first obeisance-worthy stop at the mother of all Puebla’s ecclesiastical wonders—the Cathedral. As one of the largest in Mexico, this baroque cathedral is just south of the zocalo. Here, it occupies an entire city block and its gargantuan proportions were certainly not lost on me. Its 69 meters-tall twin towers soar above a nave that’s decorated with frescos and flanked on either side by 14 chapels. Dedicated to the Immaculate Conception, the cathedral even finds a place for itself on the face of a $500 Mexican dollar bill.
There simply is no denying the fact that Puebla truly is Mexico’s most pious city with its denizens, the criollo poblanos often being accused of having a holier-than-thou attitude, both literally and metaphorically. In fact, there is a famous (if a tad exaggerated!) saying that Peubla has 365 churches, with one for every day of the year. But in reality, it’s a more conservative number of 70 that dot the Centro Historico or historic center.
And this fact was reiterated to me time and again as I sauntered through its cobblestoned alleys and lanes dotted with buildings clad in the colourful azulejo-style tiles. I made my first obeisance-worthy stop at the mother of all Puebla’s ecclesiastical wonders—the Cathedral. As one of the largest in Mexico, this baroque cathedral is just south of the zocalo. Here, it occupies an entire city block and its gargantuan proportions were certainly not lost on me. Its 69 meters-tall twin towers soar above a nave that’s decorated with frescos and flanked on either side by 14 chapels. Dedicated to the Immaculate Conception, the cathedral even finds a place for itself on the face of a $500 Mexican dollar bill.
Of
Museums and Then Some More…
Rivalling its church-prowess is the sheer number of museums one can find here. Ever the train geek, thanks to a grandfather who spent all his working life with the Indian Railways, I decided to make the Museo Nacional del Ferrocarril my first museum stop. Once again, located in Puebla’s Centro Historico, at the city’s former train station to be more specific, this railway museum has a superb range of exhibits, from a well-preserved steam engine to pictures of derailments and other locomotive disasters. The latter, strictly for those with a predilection for morbidity!
Housed in two adjoining historic buildings, the Museo Amparo is a private museum and a treasure-trove of both Hispanic artefacts and pre-Hispanic religious iconography, including a couple of highly decorated human skulls. Another deeply-rooted passion of mine—food—led me to the Museo de Arte Popular Poblano. Set in a former 17th century convent in who’s kitchen the city’s most famous dish Mole Poblano (see box) is said to have originated, the museum today has on display cooking utensils and implements along with a staggering collection of pottery and indigenous costumes.
Rivalling its church-prowess is the sheer number of museums one can find here. Ever the train geek, thanks to a grandfather who spent all his working life with the Indian Railways, I decided to make the Museo Nacional del Ferrocarril my first museum stop. Once again, located in Puebla’s Centro Historico, at the city’s former train station to be more specific, this railway museum has a superb range of exhibits, from a well-preserved steam engine to pictures of derailments and other locomotive disasters. The latter, strictly for those with a predilection for morbidity!
Housed in two adjoining historic buildings, the Museo Amparo is a private museum and a treasure-trove of both Hispanic artefacts and pre-Hispanic religious iconography, including a couple of highly decorated human skulls. Another deeply-rooted passion of mine—food—led me to the Museo de Arte Popular Poblano. Set in a former 17th century convent in who’s kitchen the city’s most famous dish Mole Poblano (see box) is said to have originated, the museum today has on display cooking utensils and implements along with a staggering collection of pottery and indigenous costumes.
The
Indian Connection
Having heard a lot about it from Lucio, my friend and host in Mexico City, I simply had to make the Templo de la Compañia de Jesus, a Jesuit church my final stop for the day. Located on the corner of the intersection of the Avenue Palafox y Mendoza and Calle 4 Sur, the church has an interesting Indian connection to it.
Legend has it that a lady called Catarina de San Juan, and better known as ‘China Poblana’, was an Indian princess from Cochin who was kidnapped and enslaved by Portuguese pirates in the mid-17th century and later sold to a Pueblan man called Miguel de Sosa. When Sosa died a few years later, she was freed and took refuge in the church’s attached convent where she lived till her death in 1688. Today, the church is famous for La Tumba de la China Poblana which is what her grave is called lying in the church’s sacristy.
Having heard a lot about it from Lucio, my friend and host in Mexico City, I simply had to make the Templo de la Compañia de Jesus, a Jesuit church my final stop for the day. Located on the corner of the intersection of the Avenue Palafox y Mendoza and Calle 4 Sur, the church has an interesting Indian connection to it.
Legend has it that a lady called Catarina de San Juan, and better known as ‘China Poblana’, was an Indian princess from Cochin who was kidnapped and enslaved by Portuguese pirates in the mid-17th century and later sold to a Pueblan man called Miguel de Sosa. When Sosa died a few years later, she was freed and took refuge in the church’s attached convent where she lived till her death in 1688. Today, the church is famous for La Tumba de la China Poblana which is what her grave is called lying in the church’s sacristy.
Puebla on a Platter
There’s very little doubt that compact little Puebla is the place where some of Mexico’s most iconic and popular dishes originated. Be they of the ubiquitous street food variety or highly sophisticated, complex creations, the Poblanos sure know how to put on a spectacular show with their preparations.
Here’s a serving of some of Puebla’s most famous contributions to Mexican gastronomy.
* Mole Poblano: This spicy, dark-hued sauce that’s ladled over everything from boiled turkey to rice is a laboriously prepared dish with over 30 ingredients, ranging from chocolate to cinnamon and get this…cracker biscuits!
* Tacos Arabes: Inspired by the Lebanese immigrant community in Puebla, here meat and cheese are wrapped in pita bread instead of corn tortillas.
* Escamoles: Not for the faint of heart, these rice-like ant larvae are first sautéed in butter and then eaten ensconced in a soft tortilla.
* Chiles en Nogada: Large green chilies are stuffed with dried fruit and meat and are covered with a creamy walnut sauce and garnished with red pomegranate seeds. Depicting the colours of the Mexican flag, this delicacy is generally served during Mexico’s September 16 Independence Day celebrations.
* Camotes: One of Puebla’s most beloved sweet treats, these cigar-shaped rolls of colourful coconut wrapped in wax paper can be found peddled from every street corner.
There’s very little doubt that compact little Puebla is the place where some of Mexico’s most iconic and popular dishes originated. Be they of the ubiquitous street food variety or highly sophisticated, complex creations, the Poblanos sure know how to put on a spectacular show with their preparations.
Here’s a serving of some of Puebla’s most famous contributions to Mexican gastronomy.
* Mole Poblano: This spicy, dark-hued sauce that’s ladled over everything from boiled turkey to rice is a laboriously prepared dish with over 30 ingredients, ranging from chocolate to cinnamon and get this…cracker biscuits!
* Tacos Arabes: Inspired by the Lebanese immigrant community in Puebla, here meat and cheese are wrapped in pita bread instead of corn tortillas.
* Escamoles: Not for the faint of heart, these rice-like ant larvae are first sautéed in butter and then eaten ensconced in a soft tortilla.
* Chiles en Nogada: Large green chilies are stuffed with dried fruit and meat and are covered with a creamy walnut sauce and garnished with red pomegranate seeds. Depicting the colours of the Mexican flag, this delicacy is generally served during Mexico’s September 16 Independence Day celebrations.
* Camotes: One of Puebla’s most beloved sweet treats, these cigar-shaped rolls of colourful coconut wrapped in wax paper can be found peddled from every street corner.
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the July 2018 issue of Jetwings International in-flight magazine of Jet Airways http://www.jetairways.com/EN/IN/jetexperience/magazines.aspx)
Sunday, October 22, 2017
New Flavours Galore
Right from the wonders of Mexican moles to Peruvian ceviches and the Ethopian messob, a whole smorgasbord of new restaurants around India are referencing myriad Latin American and African cuisines like never before, making ‘tis the season for a bit of exotic flavours on our plates!
By Raul Dias
There’s no doubting the fact that India has, for the last couple of years, been ensnared in the
vice-like grip of a raging culinary vortex that’s spewing out every conceivable cuisine trend that,
we the diner, are only too happy to lap up (pun intended!). Never mind how outré or over the top
they may be. Today, we may know our Thai tom yums from our Italian risottos and our Korean
gimbaps from the now de rigueur Japanese gunkan makis.
But recently, there has been a whole new breed of restaurants cropping up around the country.
Each representing a few hitherto unknown cuisines of Africa and Latin America. Each hoping to
break the Italian-Chinese- Japanese cuisine ‘hegemony’. And each making it their mission to
make sure we acquaint ourselves with exotic eats like fluffy injeras from Ethiopia, jellofs from
Nigeria and churrascaria from South Brazil, among others.
And while there have been (failed) introductory attempts made in the past with places like
Ubuntu in Mumbai serving South African food, the recently shuttered Manny’s Square in Delhi
doing its bit for Nigerian cuisine and even a short-lived Brazilian restaurant called Churrascaria
Brazil in Bengaluru, the following are bold new places that are making valiant inroads onto the
experimental Indian diner’s tabletop, straight out of Africa and Latin America…
Latino Vibes
Introducing tongue twisters of dishes like pão de queijo (cheese fritters), escondidinho (steak
topped with mascarpone cheese) and rocambole de espinafare (veggie-filled spinach rolls) to the
Indian diner’s culinary lexicon is this restaurant Boteco—with two branches in Pune and a new
three-months- old one in Mumbai—that claims to be the country’s first all-Brazilian eatery. And
yes, they do a mean version of Brazil’s national drink, the caipirinha which is the refreshing sum
of its cachaça, sugar and lime parts.
Bringing to Mumbai a range of exotic Pan-Hispanic flavours, Luca charts its food expedition
from the mercados of Mexico with a chocolate-laden chicken mole to the balmy islands of the
Caribbean (callaloo with okra) to finally, the sunny beaches of Coastal South America with their
riff on the Puerto Rican plantain classic tostones. Hints of colonial influences show up in dishes
like a ‘Latinised’ Spanish paella and a Portuguese feijoada.
Nestled in the heart of Gurugram’s Crowne Plaza hotel, Wildfire is an all-grills Brazilian
restaurant that takes a pescatarian detour from the usually meat-saturated churrascaria theme
with its seafood dishes like the pan fried red snapper pan fritto dentice and brodo di pesce zuppa
di saffron-redolent fish soup. But that’s not to say that the meat lovers are ignored. Take your
pick from the linguisa pork sausage, the tenderloin fraldinha or perhaps, the minty lamb paleta
de cordeiro.
Helping India discover that there is a whole other raw fish world out there as opposed to just sushi, Lima in Mumbai proudly shows off its Peruvian underpinnings. Offering a range of
ceviche—from a traditional yellowfin tuna tiradito one to a veggie-friendly enoki mushroom
iteration. All this, as you nurse a few of Lima’s signature cocktails like the pisco-saturated Lima
sour, served with a frothy cloud of meringue.
Out Of Africa
Offering up a mindbogglingly large menu of Ethiopian delicacies from the teff-flour made bread
called injera to the national dish of chicken doro wat spiced with the traditional berbere spice
mix and a carom seed and olive oil cake called nech azmud, Abyssinian, the year-old Chennai
restaurant in Alwarpet, has almost everything—including the low-slung furniture and
ingredients—brought in from Ethiopia.
While prima facie there may nothing remotely Nigerian to the look and feel of this Marine Lines,
Mumbai restaurant, a glance at Greeen Onion’s menu will throw up myriad surprises in the form
of the tomato-y jellof rice with a huge hunk of deep-fried chicken, served with fried plantain
slices as accompaniments and the funky smelling, dried fish redolent goat onugbo curry, best
mopped up with balls fashioned out of the log-shaped semovita fufu that’s flecked with pieces of
okra. Straight out of a 1001 Arabian Nights in its décor and like its name Fez alludes, this
Moroccan and North African restaurant in New Delhi’s Chanaykapuri area is a repository for all
things North African from its lamb tajine jazzed up with preserved lemons to its Tunisian stew
served with cous cous.
Interestingly even the QSR (Quick Service Restaurant) concept has cottoned onto the exotic
cuisines’ appeal. For the last few years, Galitos, a QSR in Bengaluru’s Whitefield has been
giving patrons a taste of South Africa and its neighbour Mozambique with is very popular peri-
peri chicken, the kebab-like Afrikaner sosaties and the heart-y mealie pap soup that’s made with
corn meal and flavoured with tomato and basil.
Run by the cultural wing of the Ethiopian Embassy in Chanaykapuri, New Delhi, eating out at
Blue Nile, an über-authentic Ethiopian restaurant cum café is both educational and palate-
pleasing. The staff are on hand to guide you through the nuances of this North-East African
cuisine that has its flagbearers the fluffy injera bread made from rice, teff or corn, the black lentil
rich defen mesir and the begg tibs which is sliced lamb fried with onion garlic and fresh chilli.
(A shorter, differently edited version of this piece was first published in the October 2017 issue of The Week's Smart Life magazine)
By Raul Dias
There’s no doubting the fact that India has, for the last couple of years, been ensnared in the
vice-like grip of a raging culinary vortex that’s spewing out every conceivable cuisine trend that,
we the diner, are only too happy to lap up (pun intended!). Never mind how outré or over the top
they may be. Today, we may know our Thai tom yums from our Italian risottos and our Korean
gimbaps from the now de rigueur Japanese gunkan makis.
But recently, there has been a whole new breed of restaurants cropping up around the country.
Each representing a few hitherto unknown cuisines of Africa and Latin America. Each hoping to
break the Italian-Chinese- Japanese cuisine ‘hegemony’. And each making it their mission to
make sure we acquaint ourselves with exotic eats like fluffy injeras from Ethiopia, jellofs from
Nigeria and churrascaria from South Brazil, among others.
And while there have been (failed) introductory attempts made in the past with places like
Ubuntu in Mumbai serving South African food, the recently shuttered Manny’s Square in Delhi
doing its bit for Nigerian cuisine and even a short-lived Brazilian restaurant called Churrascaria
Brazil in Bengaluru, the following are bold new places that are making valiant inroads onto the
experimental Indian diner’s tabletop, straight out of Africa and Latin America…
Latino Vibes
Introducing tongue twisters of dishes like pão de queijo (cheese fritters), escondidinho (steak
topped with mascarpone cheese) and rocambole de espinafare (veggie-filled spinach rolls) to the
Indian diner’s culinary lexicon is this restaurant Boteco—with two branches in Pune and a new
three-months- old one in Mumbai—that claims to be the country’s first all-Brazilian eatery. And
yes, they do a mean version of Brazil’s national drink, the caipirinha which is the refreshing sum
of its cachaça, sugar and lime parts.
Bringing to Mumbai a range of exotic Pan-Hispanic flavours, Luca charts its food expedition
from the mercados of Mexico with a chocolate-laden chicken mole to the balmy islands of the
Caribbean (callaloo with okra) to finally, the sunny beaches of Coastal South America with their
riff on the Puerto Rican plantain classic tostones. Hints of colonial influences show up in dishes
like a ‘Latinised’ Spanish paella and a Portuguese feijoada.
Nestled in the heart of Gurugram’s Crowne Plaza hotel, Wildfire is an all-grills Brazilian
restaurant that takes a pescatarian detour from the usually meat-saturated churrascaria theme
with its seafood dishes like the pan fried red snapper pan fritto dentice and brodo di pesce zuppa
di saffron-redolent fish soup. But that’s not to say that the meat lovers are ignored. Take your
pick from the linguisa pork sausage, the tenderloin fraldinha or perhaps, the minty lamb paleta
de cordeiro.
Helping India discover that there is a whole other raw fish world out there as opposed to just sushi, Lima in Mumbai proudly shows off its Peruvian underpinnings. Offering a range of
ceviche—from a traditional yellowfin tuna tiradito one to a veggie-friendly enoki mushroom
iteration. All this, as you nurse a few of Lima’s signature cocktails like the pisco-saturated Lima
sour, served with a frothy cloud of meringue.
Out Of Africa
Offering up a mindbogglingly large menu of Ethiopian delicacies from the teff-flour made bread
called injera to the national dish of chicken doro wat spiced with the traditional berbere spice
mix and a carom seed and olive oil cake called nech azmud, Abyssinian, the year-old Chennai
restaurant in Alwarpet, has almost everything—including the low-slung furniture and
ingredients—brought in from Ethiopia.
While prima facie there may nothing remotely Nigerian to the look and feel of this Marine Lines,
Mumbai restaurant, a glance at Greeen Onion’s menu will throw up myriad surprises in the form
of the tomato-y jellof rice with a huge hunk of deep-fried chicken, served with fried plantain
slices as accompaniments and the funky smelling, dried fish redolent goat onugbo curry, best
mopped up with balls fashioned out of the log-shaped semovita fufu that’s flecked with pieces of
okra. Straight out of a 1001 Arabian Nights in its décor and like its name Fez alludes, this
Moroccan and North African restaurant in New Delhi’s Chanaykapuri area is a repository for all
things North African from its lamb tajine jazzed up with preserved lemons to its Tunisian stew
served with cous cous.
Interestingly even the QSR (Quick Service Restaurant) concept has cottoned onto the exotic
cuisines’ appeal. For the last few years, Galitos, a QSR in Bengaluru’s Whitefield has been
giving patrons a taste of South Africa and its neighbour Mozambique with is very popular peri-
peri chicken, the kebab-like Afrikaner sosaties and the heart-y mealie pap soup that’s made with
corn meal and flavoured with tomato and basil.
Run by the cultural wing of the Ethiopian Embassy in Chanaykapuri, New Delhi, eating out at
Blue Nile, an über-authentic Ethiopian restaurant cum café is both educational and palate-
pleasing. The staff are on hand to guide you through the nuances of this North-East African
cuisine that has its flagbearers the fluffy injera bread made from rice, teff or corn, the black lentil
rich defen mesir and the begg tibs which is sliced lamb fried with onion garlic and fresh chilli.
(A shorter, differently edited version of this piece was first published in the October 2017 issue of The Week's Smart Life magazine)
Monday, October 2, 2017
Restaurant Review: Luca, Mumbai
Monday, July 3, 2017
Real Tastes of Mexico!
This article first appeared in the July 2017 issue of Jetwings Domestic in-flight magazine of Jet Airwayshttp://www.jetairways.com/EN/IN/jetexperience/magazines.aspx)
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