Tuesday, October 8, 2019

Small is beautiful!

Debuting with a menu dominated by small plates and fruity Latino-inspired cocktails, this modest-sized Khar tapas bar and café makes a big first impression. 




By Raul Dias

“According to chemistry, alcohol is a solution!” Now, while we may or may not subscribe to that pun-ridden idiom, we simply could not ignore those chuckle-inducing words scrawled across the scarlet painted wall in front of us. On a recent post-monsoon afternoon with the blazing sun at its zenith, we sauntered into the brand new Poco Loco nestled on Khar West’s busy S.V. Road.
Our aim was two-pronged: to get some much-needed airconditioned respite and to sample some small plates and cocktails that seem to be the mainstay of this café-cum-tapas bar from the people behind the super-popular Shatranj Napoli that’s also in Khar. Done up in dark, brooding shades of maroon and purple, accentuated by dull gold hardware, and another wall featuring a quirky periodic table of cocktails, the smallish space is both chic and whimsical at the same time.
Sidling up to the bar, we ordered the espuma de maracuyá (Rs 400), a deceptively potent fruity cocktail that’s the happy coupling of a liberal pour of gin with fresh passionfruit purée, all tarted up with a dash of lime juice. We paired the drink with our first tapas plate of gambas al ajillo (Rs 400), with around five medium sized prawns sitting in an earthen bowl and dunked in olive oil flavoured with crisp slivers of fried garlic. This was also served with crusty homemade bread (as our attentive served pointed out) to mop up the accompanying spicy, almost neon orange Canarian mojo chili sauce—a popular condiment from Spain’s Canary Islands.
Unable to resist the lure of one of our favourite tapas stars—patatas bravas (Rs 180), we called for a portion. And we weren’t disappointed with what our lunch companion referred to as “Spanish aloo chaat” that sees irregular cubes of fried, seasoned potatoes slathered in a tangy garlic mayonnaise dressing. Continuing the tapas leitmotif of our relaxed afternoon meal, we found ourselves devouring six generously plump croquetas de pollo (Rs 350) with the creaminess of the white sauce-enriched chicken mince croquettes spiced with a hint of paprika pimentone.   
Adding some heft to our otherwise small plate-dominated meal, the tasty Tex-Mex style lamb burrito (Rs 375) was jam-packed with juicy, shredded lamb, black beans, and rice. All this enrobed by a flour tortilla with its supporting acts of cooling guacamole, salsa rojo, sour cream and a cheese sauce that had split slightly and not as unctuous as we had hoped. And thus, the only minor aberration to an otherwise superlative experience.
Choosing to stay back in Mexico for our desserts, the beautifully presented tres leches (Rs 300) lived up to its three-milks-for-the-price-of-one claim to fame. Its evaporated milk-saturated vanilla cake component topped perfectly with a cloud of whipped cream and a duo of edible nasturtium flowers, made us promise ourselves a round two at Poco Loco on another sunny day. Soon!     
    
AT: Poco Loco, ground floor, Navish House, S.V. Road, Khar West.
TIME: 12.30 pm to 1.30 am
CALL: 9324191366

(An edited version of this review appeared in the 8th October 2019 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 22 https://www.mid-day.com/articles/small-is-beautiful/21870167)
                                                                 

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