Qatari Karak Tea

 

(This article first appeared online on 29th March 2023 in Mint Lounge, India https://lifestyle.livemint.com/food/drink/how-indian-immigrants-shaped-qatar-s-tea-culture-111680061436568.html)

Restaurant Review: IDAM in Doha, Qatar

 

This review was first published online on 11th March 2023 in Luxury Lifestyle Magazine, UK https://www.luxurylifestylemag.co.uk/food-and-drink/restaurant-review-idam-corniche-promenade-doha-in-qatar/ 

5 Doha, Qatar Restaurants You Must Try

 

(This article first appeared online on 1st March 2023 in Mint Lounge, India https://lifestyle.livemint.com/food/discover/5-doha-restaurants-to-add-to-your-post-fifa-qatar-travel-list-111677666000765.html)

Exploring dazzling Dubai in a day!

 

(This article first appeared in the 13th November 2022 issue of Deccan Herald newspaper's Sunday Herald section https://www.deccanherald.com/amp/sunday-herald/sh-top-stories/exploring-dazzling-dubai-in-a-day-1161039.html)

Dubai Diaries: 5 Interesting Food Experiences In The City Of Extravagances

 

(This article first appeared online on 9th June 2022 on ZeeZest https://zeezest.com/travel/explore-dubai-s-latest-culinary-offerings-on-your-next-trip-i-zee-zest-1918)

5 Fine Dining Restaurants For The Gourmand In You

 

(This article was published on 21st May 2022 online on NDTV Food https://food.ndtv.com/food-drinks/5-fine-dining-restaurants-in-dubai-for-the-gourmand-in-you-2996545)

Baklava Battle: Mezaya Vs Yemmek

 

(This review appeared in the 24th November 2021 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 20 https://www.mid-day.com/mumbai-guide/mumbai-food/article/the-power-of-five-23202119)

Cream Team

 

(This review appeared in the 20th October 2021 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India on page 21 https://www.mid-day.com/mumbai-guide/mumbai-food/article/cream-team-23197365)

Hotel Review: The Ritz-Carlton Bahrain, Manama In Bahrain

This article was first published online on 12th October 2020 in Luxury Lifestyle Magazine, UK https://www.luxurylifestylemag.co.uk/travel/hotel-review-the-ritz-carlton-bahrain-manama-in-bahrain/

Dubai’s Newest Glam-Zone!

With an enviable location perched on the banks of the iconic Dubai Creek, the stylish new Zabeel House Al Seef by Jumeirah is a swanky new addition to the city’s booming hotel scene. Raul Dias gives you four reasons why you need to stay here on your next jaunt to the glitzy Emirate of Dubai. 

By Raul Dias

1. Location, Location, Location
As the second hotel in Jumeirah’s new ‘Upscale Casual’ collection, Zabeel House Al Seef—which opened its doors in June this year—offers a chilled-out, hip, loft-style vibe on the south banks of Dubai Creek with a rooftop pool offering up views of the megalopolis to die for. Just like this hotel that it houses, Al Seef is a new district of 90 restaurants and 350 retail outlets, all nestled on the banks of Dubai Creek. It’s the perfect jumping-off point to explore the older parts of Dubai including the wind towers, galleries and cafes of Al Fahidi; the spice, textile and gold souks; and the old homes of Al Shindigha. The hotel is also conveniently located for exploring other parts of the city with Downtown Dubai, Dubai Mall and the beaches of Jumeirah just 15 minutes away.

2. Cocoons of Bliss
With 200 rooms, the hotel caters to all sorts of travellers, offering three different sized rooms for the solo traveller, couples or families. Think king-size B&B Italia mattresses in the ‘Plush’ and ‘Suite’ rooms or Simmons mattresses in the popular rooms, oversized oak dining and work tables, minimalist wardrobe spaces, hammocks for lounging on when reading, contemporary art on the walls and ceilings inspired by Dubai and you’ll get our drift. Enjoy more luxe amenities in the form of free-standing bathtubs for that ultimate soak—all complete with organic liquid toiletries by OSME, signature black SMEG mini bars, N’espresso coffee machines and a SuitePad, perfect for making plans for the days ahead or simply for ordering that late-night snack!

3. Edible Wonders
Speaking of food, there’s much to be said about the legendary food and beverage scene in Dubai, and this hotel has a lot to offer on that front! Chapters is not your normal lobby bar, as you are encouraged to settle in for a while with one of the books pulled down from the surrounding bookcases. Through the lobby you’ll find Nyon serving Mediterranean and Middle-Eastern bites throughout the day. Don’t forget to check out the black and white photographs on display here that showcase some of the world’s most iconic cities. A recent addition to the hotel’s F&B scene, Skafos is a wonderful alfresco gastro restaurant reaching out over the waters of Dubai Creek, the ideal spot to watch the dhows and abras cruise past. Seven floors above, the Sol Sky Bar sits on the brim of the rooftop pool with a cocktail menu to match the variety of panoramic views of the city.

4. R&R at its Best
The vast open-plan lobby provides the perfect location for catch-ups with colleagues, clients or friends. Here is where you are first welcomed into the hotel with a ginger shot mixed with fresh saffron from the Spice Souk and pure honey from Yemen. From the group of human sculptures raising their hats to you as you enter the hotel, to the abstract art display called the ‘cityscape’ which portrays Dubai’s transformation and the stereos that adorn the reception desk and the spa, there’s design details to inspire at every turn. And if you’re looking for zen throughout your stay, the hotel has a well-equipped indoor gym, complete with sauna, steam room and two treatment rooms. For the outdoorsy kind, head out for a run on the 2-kilometre promenade that stretches from the hotel alongside the Creek.

Zabeel House Al Seef

al Seef, Dubai Creek

PO BOX 35449, Dubai UAE

Tel: +971-4-7077077

reservtions@zabeelhouse.com

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 18th November 2018 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Weekend section on page 3 http://epaper.freepressjournal.in/m5/1900464/Free-Press-Mumbai-Edition/18-Nov-2018#page/13/1)

Business Class at its Best

From free onboard WiFi and in-flight lounges, to amenity kits by Bulgari and Frette linen-lined plush flatbed seats, frequent flier Raul Dias lists the top business class indulgences on four of the best Middle Eastern airlines flying out of and into India. Each making it their mission to see that you’re hedonistically ensconced in the lap of luxury at 35,000 feet in the sky!

By Raul Dias

TURKISH AIRLINES
Imagine this. You’re flying somewhere over the Hindu Kush, enjoying Turkish Airlines’s legendary brand of onboard hospitality, en route from India to Istanbul in their superbly kitted out business class cabin when you decide to whip out your phone and Instagram pics of the mighty mountain range to your posse of followers on terra firma. And no, we aren’t alluding to some jet-lag-induced, mid-air fantasy! With free high speed WiFi offered to all its business class guests, joining the digital ‘mile high club’ is just a click away on Turkish Airlines. But for those who prefer to prefer a digital detox, simply sit back in your fully flat seats, put your feet up on the fixed ottoman in front of you and sip on the airline’s signature raspberry lemonade with mint or perhaps indulge in a glass of the cloudy raki—the aniseed-based traditional Turkish spirit best accompanied with a mezze platter. Enjoy your multi-course meal at any time during your flight, prepared by an onboard Skychef—another unique feature exclusive to Turkish Airlines. The Planet digital system is used for in-flight entertainment and come pre-loaded with over 350 movies and TV shows that you can also choose from and activate from the handheld control in case you’re too lazy to bend forward and tap your personal individual touch-screens. Much too lavish to be called a mere toilet, the powder rooms on board resemble those you’d find at a starred upscale hotel, with special mood lighting and a hands free sink with a large rectangular basin. Making for a great souvenir, the leather amenity kits by Furla contain everything you need to look your best for your day ahead once you land. Speaking of which, here’s a tip: just before your flight begins to start its descent, make sure you call for a demitasse of the robust, freshly made Turkish coffee along with some Turkish delight or lokum as it’s called locally in Turkey. Trust us; it’s the perfect way to end your tryst with a business class service that is up there (pun intended!) with the best of the best.


QATAR AIRWAYS
Voted the Best Business Class yet again at the 2018 Skytrax World Airline Awards, Qatar Airways puts on a spectacular show in its cozy business class cabin. For starters, your seat doubles up as your personal cocoon of bliss with its 180° reclining ability, along with privacy screens and ample stowage facilities for all your travel-related paraphernalia. Kitted out in fine Frette linen when you’re ready to sleep and bathed with soft LED lighting, the seat truly is the most comfortable business class seat in the world! With everything from sushi to typically Qatari delicacies on offer, mealtime aboard Qatar Airways is punctuated with freshly brewed tea served from individual porcelain sets. And yes, you can have your meal at any time you prefer. With up to 3,000 IFE entertainment options, the Oryx Entertainment System is a great way to catch up on that latest blockbuster. All this displayed on a one-of-its-kind dual screen interface where you can multitask. The snazzy limited-edition amenity kits from luxury luggage brands BRIC’S and Nappa Dori containing exclusive products from Italy’s Castello Monte Vibiano Vecchio are designed to keep you fresh, while the cool-n-comfy sleep suits (given out on long haul flights) give you the feeling of being invited to one big pajama party in the sky! 

EMIRATES
Your tryst with Emirates’s legendary brand of Middle Eastern business class hospitality begins a few hours before your actual flight! Confused? Well, one of the aces up the Dubai-based airlines’ sleeve is the super-convenient and supremely luxurious free chauffer service that picks you up from your home, hotel or office and deposits you at the airport—all in the cool confines of a sleek sedan. Once on board, you can enjoy a cocktail at the specially fitted lounge bar in their A380 aircrafts or sit back and enjoy a spot of Moët at your personal mini bar cubby attached to your seat, which by the way, can later be configured to transform into a fully flat bed. Served on Royal Doulton bone china with Robert Welch cutlery, your meal will be from a wide selection of regionally-inspired gourmet dishes, paired with a sommelier-curated list of six award winning wines and grand crus. And to keep you entertained, Emirates lets you choose from over 2,500 channels of the latest movies and TV shows on your personal in-flight entertainment system. Finally, making sure you reach your destination all fresh and invigorated is the gargantuan on-board vanity room called ‘The Spa’ that comes with its own shower. But that’s not all, for your in-flight comfort Emirates presents you with its divine faux leather amenity kits (in eight rotating design variants) that contain top-of-the-line Bulgari products to indulge you even further with. Trust us, high flying was never this decadent!   

ETIHAD AIRWAYS
Loathe to call it a mere business class, Etihad Airways prefers the term ‘Business Studio’ when it comes to their business class product on the A380 and 787 Dreamliner aircrafts that it operates. With a unique dovetail design, with forward- and rear-facing seats, Etihad optimises the personal space for you with direct aisle access for all fully flat seats and with convenient individual storage spaces. Perfect to socialise with other flyers is The Lobby on the upper deck of the A380 that is inspired by the intimate spaces found in boutique hotels. Another superb concept is Etihad’s onboard café where you can nosh on light snacks and a choice of teas, Arabic coffee and even hot chocolate. But for a more substantial repast, the ‘All Day’ menus that you can opt for at any time during your flight are inspired by upmarket bistros around the world and are served with your choice of fine wines… or a flute of bubbly perhaps? With one of the largest touch-screen TVs (18.5 inches) offered in any business class cabin, your entertainment needs are taken care of with a range of on-demand programs that you can listen to with noise-cancelling headsets. A limited edition amenity kit (that changes every month)—with designs inspired by some of the most vibrant cities on Etihad’s route map—contains a customised Etihad Airways LUXE City Guide along with a unisex Scaramouche + Fandango comfort kit is meant to help you stay your glamourous best. ‘nuff said!

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 23rd September 2018 issue of The Free Press Journal newspaper's Weekend section on page 3 http://www.freepressjournal.in/travel/here-are-top-business-class-indulgences-on-4-of-best-middle-eastern-airlines-flying-out-of-and-into-india/1360926)

Muscat in a Day!

While it may not be very large, Muscat—the compact capital of the Sultanate of Oman has something for everyone. From shopping sprees and culture lessons to an abundance of sea-centric activities, this city has it all, and then some more...

By Raul Dias

If you look up the etymology of the word ‘Muscat’ you will find that it literally translates from Arabic to mean “place of anchorage”. And there couldn’t be a more apt way to describe this tiny, yet bustling capital city of the Sultanate of Oman that exudes a relaxed, small-town vibe despite having everything a dynamic modern-day city should have.
Established in 1793, today Muscat is the main metropolitan area of Oman and the most densely populated region that one third of the country’s two million people call home. A great place to set anchor and explore the rest of Oman at leisure, Muscat too has a lot to offer the traveller, however brief your stopover here is.
We bring you a few ways to get the most of your jaunt in this Middle Eastern coastal city:

Soak in the Souk
There’s no doubting the fact that one of the best ways to acquaint yourself to any Middle Eastern city is by sauntering down to the local marketplace called a souk. And Muscat is no different. The bustling Muttrah Souk, just off the meandering Corniche in Old Muscat is the perfect Ground Zero for a slice of local life. From the intricately decorated curved dagger called the khanjar that is the symbol of Oman and fragrant frankincense (see box)-selling stalls, to others peddling soft Pashmina shawls and colourful belushi dresses for women, this souk has it all. With its labyrinthine lanes and alleys, the souk is a treasure trove for souvenir hunters with its hundreds of shops selling multi-hued glass lamps, sheeshas and other metallic curios and trinkets like typically Omani pendants and lockets.

A dose of serenity at the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque
20,000 is the number of worshippers it can accommodate at one time. 1,122 is how many bulbs its eight tonne Swarovski crystal chandelier holds. And 1,700 million knots make up the Persian carpet that covers the floor of its main hall. As one of the largest mosques in the world, the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque is THE place to immerse yourself in serenity and peace. Opened in 2001, this edifice is hemmed in by four minarets which together with a fight—and larger—central minaret represent the five pillars of Islam. Truly a must-visit place in the city!

Scent’s Appeal
Let your olfactory senses lead you to the very well-appointed Amouage Perfume Factory in Rusayl for a heady dose of aromatherapy. Established over 25 years ago by the Omani Royal Family to revive and maintain the art of ancient Arabian Perfumery, the factory is ‘Ground Zero’ for lovers of fine fragrance. Here you can see how essential oils and traditional ingredients like silver, ambergris and myrrh and others like tonka beans and lavender amalgamate to create magic. You can even get a customised perfumed made here just for yourself with the formula kept aside for future orders!

Omani Heritage Gallery
Shop with a conscience at the wonderful Omani Heritage Gallery that’s located in the Shatti Al Qurm. Part of an NGO that supports local Omani artisans working in traditional crafts, the gallery is where you can pick up some high-quality products including jewellery, tribal weaving, woven baskets and copper articles. But remember, unlike the Muttrah Souk where bargaining is the norm, this is a fixed price place with all profits going directly to the artisans. 

Do the Museum Circuit
For a city as small as Muscat, it sure packs in a mighty punch with its world-class museums. Start off with a visit to the National Museum—located bang opposite the ornate Al Alam Royal Palace in Old Muscat—for its well-curated exhibits of everything from displays of jewellery and traditional costumes to the mighty Omani dhow sailboat that occupies prime position. Don’t miss checking out the 8^th century letter believed to have been written by the Prophet Mohammed to the rulers of Oman, spreading the Islamic faith to the country. For a better understanding of Franco-Omani relations, pop into the Bait Al Faransi museum that is housed in the former residence of the French Consul in Muscat. Other superb museums include the Sultan’s Armed Forces Museum in the Ruwi neighbourhood and the wonderful Natural History Museum where you can uncover the Sultanate’s history in fossils with the ‘Oman Through Time’ exhibit. 

Encounters of the Sea Kind!
With an enviable coastline, Muscat offers a plethora of aquatic activities for you to enjoy. The Arabian Sea around Muscat has no strong currents, making both diving and snorkelling both fun an easy for divers of all levels. Fancy the more armchair kind of sea encounters? Sign up for a half day glass bottom boat tour leaving from the marina at Sidab in Old Muscat every morning at 8 am. The 22-seater boat cruises along the Muscat coastline, affording you sights of not just beautiful corals and other marine life, but also of the rather playful humpback dolphins and mighty whales that glide through the azure waters.  

A Sun Worshipper’s Paradise
With its soft, golden sand, the city’s Qurm Beach is one of the Sultanate’s best public beaches and a great place to unwind after a hectic day’s sight-seeing. Located a stone’s throw away from the business district of Qurm Junction, this beach along Al Shati Street is particularly popular with locals at sunset. The promenade that runs alongside it makes for a pleasant evening stroll with stops made for some cooling iced mint lemonade called limonana bought at one of the many fruit juice stalls.

Night Out at the Opera
Boasting of one of the best opera houses in the world, Muscat’s magnum opus of an opera house stands proud near the seaside dunes of Al Qurm. Spanning across 80,000 sq.m, the building reflects typically Omani Arabesque architecture with flourishes of European grandeur peeking through every now and then. The Grand Auditorium is where you will see the Sultan of Oman’s gilded private box. In the past, the Royal Opera House has hosted world greats like Diana Krall, Youssou N’Dour and the celebrated Mariinsky Ballet who have all performed to a sold-out house.       

The khanjar and frankincense: Two Pillars of Omani Culture
* Tucked into ornate belts, the traditional curved dagger called the khanjar has been worn for centuries by Oman men as a defensive weapon and represents bravery and valour. Today considered the national symbol of the Sultanate, you will see its iconic shape on the country’s flag and printed on currency notes.
* The treasured resin harvested from the Boswelia Sacra tree found in Oman’s southern Dhofar region, frankincense is an inalienable part of the Omani identity which you will encounter all over the Sultanate. Omanis particularly like to use it as a perfume and you will surely recognise its distinct fragrance on the many hands that you shake or on entering shops and restaurants.

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the July 2018 issue of Jetwings Domestic in-flight magazine of Jet Airways http://www.jetairways.com/EN/IN/jetexperience/magazines.aspx)

Oman on a platter!

A delicious confluence of cuisines—thanks to its British, Portuguese, African and yes, Indian influences—the food of Oman is one that is richly layered and nuanced with flavours and textures that are both exotic and comfortingly similar at the same time.

 

By Raul Dias

If the legendary Arab hospitality is at the very heart of Omani life, then the cuisine of this most eastern of all middle eastern countries is undoubtedly its soul. Richly nourished by multifarious influences, its food is flavoured with a pinch of culture and a dash of history. This ranges from the colonial grip exerted by Portugal and Britain in the 15th and the late 18th century respectively, to its very own colonisation of the East African island of Zanzibar (which was regarded as the second capital of Oman after Muscat!) in 1698 and finally to its centuries of trade and commerce with India.
The sultanate’s 2,000-mile-long coastline, that stretches from the Musandam Peninsula up north in the Strait of Hormuz, right down to the tropical city of Salalah along the Arabian Sea coast, has bestowed upon its cuisine a bounty of seafood that takes prime position at most meals. Thus, all this, setting the stage for a table that runneth over with an edible pastiche of dishes and delicacies that are as much exotically Omani as they are comfortingly similar.

Exotic Flavours Aplenty
There’s no denying the fact that bread is the most important part of any middle eastern table. And Oman is no exception. Chief among these is the crepe-like, paper-thin flatbread called khubz rakhal that is the de facto anytime snack when loaded up with everything from a thick layer of salty feta cheese to honey and beaten eggs.
Other popular breads like the khubz al simsim and the khubz al takhien are used to scoop up lightly spiced gravies like the prawn and tomato marak shibass or to enrobe morsels of roasted lamb leg and Oman’s rather tangy and spicy version of kebabs called mishkak inspired by the Portuguese roast dish of asado.
Interestingly, two very popular vegetarian Omani dishes owe their genesis to Zanzibar. The first being the triangular spiced mashed potato-stuffed, deep-fried pastry called sambusac and the other being the decidedly East African coconut-creamed spinach that’s eaten with rice and fried fish.
If there is one local dish that should put Oman firmly on the world’s culinary map, then that would have to be its national dish of shuwa. An elaborate preparation that sees chunks of meat marinated in a spicy date paste and spit-roasted in a pit dug in the ground, shuwa is a communal activity undertaken by the entire village. The meat is marinated with a variety of spice rubs and then wrapped in banana leaves, which are in turn placed into the subterranean oven and left to slow cook for 24 hours.

The Indian Connection
Centuries of trade between India and Oman and the huge Indian diaspora—that is found in great numbers till today in Oman—has resulted in an interesting and unique blend of the two cuisines. Though much milder than a robust Indian-style biryani and more on the lines of a Kashmiri yakhni pulao, the local Omani iteration of machboos is a yummy one.  Basically, a rice dish, machboos is flavoured with saffron and cooked in the same stock that the chicken or meat was cooked in. For the vegetarian, the kabuli pulao steps in and tastes almost like its desi counterpart back home in India.
A doppelganger of the pounded wheat and meat Hyderabadi dish of haleem, Omanis call their version harees. Here too, wheat is mixed with meat or chicken and cooked until it forms a thick paste that’s served with ghee. Only the unexpected drizzle of date molasses sets the harees a wee bit apart and makes it a rather acquired taste.
Coated in a luscious, silken coconut milk sauce and simply called white tuna curry, this one is a dead ringer for the meen moilee of Kerala. It was introduced to the Omani palate by migrant workers from the southern state of India that has an equally impressive, long coastline.

Sea and Tell!
Speaking of seafood, one of the greatest places to acquaint oneself with this Omani staple is at the Muttrah Fish Market in the old quarter of Muscat. A stone’s throw away from the stunning corniche waterfront, tucked away at its end, this is the place to get a sense and feel of the hustle and bustle of an Arabic market. From 6.30 in the morning, fishermen drag their dhows up to the beach next to the market to unload everything from king fish to the typically Arab hammour fish and Sultan Ibrahim (threadfin bream) to octopus that are sold off within minutes.
If there is one fish dish that you must try when in Oman then that would have to me mashuai. Consisting of a whole spit-roasted kingfish, served with a side of lemon rice and garnished with half cut lemons, this preparation truly lets the fish’s sweet flavour come though, sans any spicy overkill. Another dish not to be missed is the tangy, citrusy seafood paplou soup. This soup that is made by the Lawati Omanis, whose ancestors trace their roots to traders from the Old Muttrah neighbourhood and South Asia is a delicious blend of tuna and tuna roe, all jazzed up with a dried lime and a spritz of fresh lime juice. 

Sweeter Side of Things
No visit to a local Omani home or business place is ever complete without a cup or two of kahwa. Not to be confused with the spiced kehwa Kashmiri tea, the Omani kahwa is a shot of strong, black coffee mixed with cardamom powder, poured into tiny porcelain cups out of a traditional brass coffee pot called a dallah. Its accompaniments are always the same: dates and Omani halwa (see box). The former is particularly important, as Oman has over 250 indigenous varieties, with the reddish-brown khalas dates kind being the most preferred.
Thanks to the British, tea is also a very popular beverage in Oman. Similar to masala chai, chai karak in Oman is made with condensed milk, cardamom, saffron and dried thyme leaves called za’atar. One of the best ways to enjoy tea time in Oman is by munching on a plate of the deep fired doughnut-like balls called luqaimat—very similar to the East Indian community’s sweet-savoury foogias. Only here, the luqaimat are doused in the local Omani honey from Sohar, that has a distinct flavour thanks to the samr, sidr and ghaaf trees that bees pollinate.
   

The Omani Halwa Influence
In a very interesting twist of circumstances, there is empirical evidence that shows Omani halwa as the progenitor of the very popular Bombay halwa. All this, thanks to the centuries of trade between the two coastal cities of Muscat and Mumbai, each on either side of the Arabian Sea.
Here are a few similarities:
• Both are sticky, gelatinous sweets with a translucency about them.
• Both are made with a tapioca starch-wheat flour mixture, sugar, ghee and rose water to which cardamom powder, nutmeg and saffron are added and then the mixture stirred manually for hours.
• While Omani halwa is naturally brownish-reddish in colour, Bombay halwa is artificially coloured green, perhaps to mimic the oodles of chopped pistachios that go into garnishing the former.

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the June 2018 issue of Jetwings Domestic in-flight magazine of Jet Airways http://www.jetairways.com/EN/IN/jetexperience/magazines.aspx)

Notes from Oman

By Raul Dias

Ever the aviation geek, I realised recently that—barring the now-defunct Mumbai-Karachi flight—the Mumbai-Muscat flight of a mere two and a half hours is the shortest international flight out of my home city, direct or otherwise. Yes, even the direct flight to Kolkata is longer for us Mumbaikars!
But then, there has always been some sort of close affinity between Oman and India for centuries. An invisible bond that lasts to this very day. At Mumbai’s street shopping hub of Colaba Causeway, one can still see scores of visiting Omani merchants go about their business, easily distinguishable from their other Middle Eastern neighbours thanks to their distinct wrap-around head gear called the massar. A friend in the henna export business tells me that her number one clients are Omani, with no Omani bride’s trousseau being complete without loads of the stuff that she has applied on her hands and feet, much like an Indian bride would.

The Indian Connection   
And it’s the same story, albeit told a bit differently in the souks of Muscat. Especially at the bustling Mutrah Souk in the old quarter of the city, just besides the beautiful Muscat Corniche. Here, the default lingua franca is Hindi with both local Omani and vendors from the Indian subcontinent peddling their wares lustily in the language.
As I sit down for a meal of the decidedly biryani-meets-yakhni pulao lamb and rice dish called suwa, at a local Omani home a little outside the town of Jabreen, my host Nadir greets me in shudh Hindi. And guess what? He’s never been to India in all his life. His linguistic skills are courtesy of the many Indians that call Oman home.
At the airport in Khasab, up north in Oman’s rugged Musandam Peninsula—as I wait to board my return flight to Muscat—the official checking my passport claims to have seen me shopping the night before in the town’s Lulu Hypermarket. And why wouldn’t I be? It’s one of Khasab’s ‘hot-spots’ on the weekly holiday of Friday with scores of bargain hunters shopping the night away as late as 12am!
As one of the Middle East’s largest supermarket chains, Lulu has 18 such mega marts across Oman selling everything from bisi bele bath paste to Arabic baklava. Once again, an Indian connection springs up in the form of a certain Yusuff Ali M.A. who hails from Nattika, in Kerala’s Thrissur District and who founded Lulu in the year 2000.

Same, Same, but a Little Different!  
Coming back to food, the ubiquitous fried dumplings called luqaimat that I am served at almost every kahwa coffee session are dead ringers for the East Indian community’s fuggias. The only difference is that the luqaimat are doused in either honey or date syrup and served as sweets as opposed to the fuggias’ savoury role in mopping up curries.
The laban that’s almost always served after a heavy meal is another doppelganger. This time of India’s cooling dairy drink—chaas. The only distinguishing factor is that this buttermilk iteration is generously spiked with salt and thicker in texture than the spicy chaas.
Interestingly, this cultural intermingling also works in the opposite direction, with Omani flavours often influencing desi ones. And this is made amply evident when I visit the Nizwa Souk. The Omani halwa that I pick up at one of the shops here, I’m told, is what the gooey, translucent Bombay halwa is based upon. This saffron-pistachio-date redolent sweet that I am offered a taste of, is bolder in flavour with a lingering taste of spices like cinnamon, cardamom and nutmeg…that came from? You guessed it—India!

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the 13th May 2018 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 7 http://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/travel/notes-from-oman/article23854701.ece)

Pearl of the Gulf

Rich with history—both ancient and modern—Bahrain truly is a Middle Eastern jewel with a lot on offer from to its futuristic skyline to its ancient pearl trade and splendid forts. We tap into a few of its unmissable attractions that every visitor to this fascinating archipelago must pay heed to!

By Raul Dias


Quick question: what comes to your mind when someone utters the words “Middle East”.
Deserts? Camels? Vast, barren lands? How about lush palm trees, white-sanded tropical islands
and cerulean-hued coral reefs that team with myriad sea life? Yes, the 33 natural islands
archipelago that is Bahrain is a curious mix of all the above descriptors and so much more…
Home to the ancient Dilmun civilisation that thrived 5,000 years ago—which believed that the
secret to eternal life lay in the sea surrounding Bahrain—it is no surprise then that the nation gets
its name from this myth. Apparently, the sea had certain pockets of sweet water that gushed up
from underground streams and mingled with the salty water. It is this mélange—that formed two
seas—to which modern Bahrain owes its name: bahr which means sea in Arabic and ‘thnain
which is two.
With over 4,000 years of trading history—with pearls, then oil and now tourism—behind it,
hospitality is an intrinsic part of the local Bahrainis’ DNA. As some of the warmest people in the
Middle East…nay, the world even, it is the locals that add that special touch to your visit with
their infectious smiles and welcoming words.
And while there is just so much to do and see when in Bahrain, in honour of brevity we’ve
narrowed our list down to a few must-dos. They may not ‘complete’ your visit to Bahrain, but
are enough to give you a sneak-peek into its diverse attractions and sights:

Pay Obeisance At The Ahmed Al Fateh Grand Mosque
Crowned by the world’s largest fiberglass dome, with a huge glittering chandelier from Austria
and carpets from Ireland, the Ahmed Al Fateh Grand Mosque truly is awe-inspiring. Its clean,
linear architecture is a subtle reflection of Middle Eastern elements. Able to accommodate 7,000
worshippers at one time—in its main hall and in its outdoor quadrangle, the sheer scale of the
mosque is breathtaking. Free guided tours are offered to everybody—irrespective of gender, race
and religion and is something strongly recommended to get a better understanding of the edifice
and what it means to the local Bahrainis.

Walk Up The Rampart Of The Qal’at Al Bahrain
More commonly known as the Bahrain Fort, Qal’at Al Bahrain—that offers a great panoramic
view of both the seashore and of the capital Manama’s startlingly modern skyline—was
designated as a World Heritage site in 2005. The fort that comprises four elements—the moat, an
ancient sea tower, a sea channel and palm grove—is a masterpiece of the Portuguese occupation of Bahrain in the 16 th century. Interestingly, excavations at the moat are proof that there has been
an unbroken occupation of the site over a 4,500-year period right from the time Bahrain was the
capital of the Dilmun civilisation.

Blast Into The Past!
As Bahrain’s second largest island, Muharraq is steeped in history and is a treasure trove of old-
style houses that are all very lovingly preserved, with many making it to the UNESCO heritage
list. Chief among these is the Shaikh Isa House that was once the home of the country’s longest
reigning sovereign (1869-1932), Shaikh Isa Bin Ali Al Khalifa. Don’t miss the house’s
brilliantly designed wind tower called a barjeel that is believed to have cooled the house to
almost air conditioner like temperatures in the summer. Equally impressive is the 100-year- old
Abdulla Al Zayed House that is the home of Abdulla Al Zayed (the publisher of the Gulf’s first
daily newspaper) and the Kurar House where the ancient Bahraini embroidery technique called
kurar is still practiced and on proud display.

Speedboat It Out To Al Dar islands
Enjoy a spot of tropical sea, sun, surf and sand by hotfooting your way by speed boat to the small
islands of Al Dar. A group of resort islands near Sitra, Al Dar is around 12 km southeast of
Manama. Here, one can hire out a palm-thatched beach cabanna and swim in the crystal-clear
waters, while chomping on a burger and sipping on a cold beer. Yes, alcohol is very much
readily available, not just at the bar on Al Dar, but in the rest of Bahrain as well. Come sunset,
you can even bring out your grill for an evening of BBQ on the soft white sands!

Immerse Yourself In The Tastes And Smells Of Bahrain
There can be no better place in any Middle Eastern country than a souq (local market) to dive
head-on into the kaleidoscopic world of flavours. The Manama souq in the heart of the city is
one such magical place where the meandering alleyways throw up shops selling everything from
typically Bahraini spices like the zesty za’ataar and the tangy sumac to Bahrain’s favourite
flavouring agent—saffron! Stop by a small, local eatery in the souq for a meal of the chicken and
rice dish of maqboos with sides of hummus and the eggplant-redolent moutabel—all washed
down with a glass of the sunshine-hued saffron sherbet.

Get All Oiled Up
Hang on, don’t let your imagination run wild! We’re simply alluding to the one thing that has
truly made the Middle East the powerhouse that it is today—oil. Discovered rather
serendipitously in 1931 by a goatherder seeking a water well, Bahrain’s first oil well aptly named
Oil Well No.1 is situated at the foothill of Jebal Al Dukhan or the Montain of Smoke in the south
of the country. However, it was only on 2 nd June, 1932 that oil began to gush forth from this well
and thus sealing the fate of this country forever. Right next to the well is the Oil Museum where
the exhibits include old drilling equipment, photographs and a working model of an oil rig to
give you an insight into the region’s best-known export.

Spend Sunset At Shajarat Al Hayat
Far into the arid desert, amidst vast nothingness is a mesquite tree standing stoically alone. Many
believe that there is no better way to end your Bahrain sojourn than by placing your hands on the
gnarly trunk of the 400 plus years old Tree of Life—or Shajarat Al Hayat as it is called
locally—at sunset and wishing to be back there soon. Yes, local legend has it that anyone
touching the ancient tree will return to Bahrain. Amen to that, we say!


FACT FILE
Getting There
There are a number of daily direct flights from India to Bahrain’s capital Manama on airlines like
Air India, Jet Airways and Gulf Air. Travel within Bahrain is very easy, given its small size and
most places in the country are under an hour away from each other. Bahrain’s super-efficient
buses, taxis and boats make travelling within the archipelago a treat! Indian passport holders
need an e-visa to enter Bahrain which is very easy to procure.
When To Visit
With Bahrain enjoying a pleasant climate during the winter months and brutally hot, humid
summers, the best months to travel are from November to early March when there is a gentle nip
in the air and sunny skies!
Accommodation
Bahrain has an excellent selection of hotels to choose from to suit all budgets and tastes. Some of
the best value-for- money options are:
 The Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain (www.ritzcarlton.com)
 Hotel Sofitel Bahrain Zallaq Thalassa Sea & Spa (www.sofitel.com)
 ART Rotana Hotel & Resort (www.rotana.com)
 Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay (www.fourseasons.com)

For More Information Visit
www.btea.bh, www.at-bahrain.com

(A shorter, differently edited version of this piece was first published in the October 2017 issue of The Week's Smart Life magazine)

Soul of the Gulf

From its well-preserved old houses and imposing forts to its vertiginous skyline and adventure sports prowess, the archipelago in the Persian Gulf that is Bahrain continues to stay true to its heritage and ancient culture, while embracing modernity with all its might

By Raul Dias

There is a plant that grows under the water. It has a prickle like a thorn, like a rose; it will
wound your hand. But if you succeed in taking it, then your hands will hold that which restores
his lost youth to a man...
So reads a very crucial couplet of the Epic of Gilgamesh, as etched onto clay tablets more than
5,000 years ago by the Sumerians of ancient Mesopotamia. The epic chronicles King Gilgamesh
of Uruk’s (modern day Iraq) quest for eternal life in the sea surrounding Dilmun which was what
Bahrain was known as then. Apparently, the sea had certain pockets of sweet water that gushed
forth from underground streams and mingled with the salty water. It is this mélange—that
formed two seas—to which modern Bahrain owes its name: bahr which means sea in Arabic and
‘thnain which is two.

National Pride
It is legends and myths like this that abound at the superbly curated exhibits of the Bahrain
National Museum that’s set on the waterfront of the eastern shore of the capital, Manama.
Though built only in 1988, the museum offers a holistic view of the country through the ages
from the Dilmun era to present day. And speaking of the former, an exhibit that mustn’t be
overlooked is that of the reconstructed ancient burial mound dating to around 2800 BC.
As Bahrain’s second largest island, Muharraq is steeped in history and is a treasure trove of old-
style houses that are all very lovingly preserved, with many making it to the UNESCO heritage
list. Chief among these is the Shaikh Isa House that was once the home of the country’s longest
reigning sovereign (1869-1932), Shaikh Isa Bin Ali Al Khalifa. Don’t miss the house’s
brilliantly designed wind tower called a barjeel that is believed to have cooled the house to
almost air conditioner like temperatures in the summer. Equally impressive is the Kurar House
where the ancient Bahraini embroidery technique called kurar is still practiced and on proud
display.

Grand Edifices
Back in Manama, sneak into the Ahmed Al Fateh Grand Mosque for a quick visit and marvel at
the world’s largest fiberglass dome, with a huge glittering chandelier from Austria and carpets
from Ireland. Able to accommodate 7,000 worshippers at one time—in its main hall and in its
outdoor quadrangle—the sheer scale of the mosque is breathtaking. Free guided tours are offered
to everybody and is something strongly recommended to get a better understanding of the edifice
and what it means to the local Bahrainis.
Another pit stop that comes well-recommended is the Bahrain Fort. More commonly known as
Qal’at Al Bahrain, the fort offers a great panoramic view of both the seashore and of Manama’s
startlingly modern skyline. Designated as a World Heritage site in 2005, the fort comprises four
elements—the moat, an ancient sea tower, a sea channel and palm grove—is a masterpiece of the
Portuguese occupation of Bahrain in the 16 th century. But do make sure to time your visit
towards sunset when it’s not only cooler, but also when the fading, twinkling sunlight does its
number on the calm waves that surround the fort.

The Sea’s Bounty
An archipelago of 33 islands, with an impressively long coastline, much of Bahraini life is
centered around the sea whose cerulean waters hold forth one of the country’s greatest calling
cards—Pearls! Though it is oil that has brought prosperity to the region, it was the pearl that put
Bahrain on the map as the ‘Pearling Capital of the World’. Irregular in shape than most other
pearls in the world, it is this imperfection that makes the Bahraini pearl a much sought-after
jewel. Join in on a pearling expedition with local divers or have a go at it yourself (see box).
Or perhaps sign up for a dolphin watching tour at Al Dar Islands, 12 km southeast of the coast of
Manama. Get up close and personal with the playful mammals whose clicks and squeals compete
with the shrieks of the gulls who try and steal the sardines visitors are made to feed the dolphins
with.
Another way to feel the pulse of Bahrain’s rich maritime culture is to pay a visit to a traditional
ship-building yard. Called a dhow, these wooden vessels are still built today in the same way
they were generations ago. At the fishermen’s wharf off Sheikh Khalifa Highway just past the
Coast Guard station is the yard where you can marvel at how builders craft hulls from curved
teak wood and join planks together to form the dhows that can cost up to $30,000 apiece and
that’s without the engine installed.

Different Flavours Galore…
Reminding you that you’re still very much in the Middle East is the Manama Souq (market) with
its labyrinthine alleys. Fronted by the impressive Bab Al Bahrain or ‘Gateway to Bahrain’, the
souq has shops selling everything from typically Bahraini spices like the zesty za’ataar and the
tangy sumac to the dry, black, preserved lemons. Stop by a small, local eatery in the souq for an
early dinner of maglooba which is rice cooked with meat, potatoes and eggplant and jireesh a
risotto-meets- khichdi made up of cooked spelt with chicken and tomatoes. Finish off your meal
with a rather unusual dessert called balaleet which is an Indian-influenced dish made from
sweetened, saffron-flavoured vermicelli topped with an omelet!
For a more eclectic and artsy dining scene head out to Adliya in central Manama. But more
specifically to the quarter’s chic District 338 for sundowners at one of its many trendy lounge
bars and restaurants where the hip, young Bahrainis hang out and enjoy a rather raucous night
out. This partly pedestrianised area with its contemporary artwork installations on every street corner is a great place to simply sit back and take in the ‘Many Bahrains’ you’d have probably
encountered on your trip. Each so very different from the other, yet collectively existing in amazing parallel synchrony!


Bahrain—The Middle East’s Adventure Sports Capital!
 There can be no better way to bring a bit of Bahrain’s pearling history to life than by
diving for your own pearl close to Al Dar Island. And no, one doesn’t have to be a
certified diver to experience the thrill of opening your own pearl oyster, as you’ll be
snorkeling in shallow waters. (www.aldarislands.com)
 From sailing, powerboating and windsurfing to kite surfing, paddle boarding and
kayaking, the Bahrain Yacht Club offers both training and equipment on hire.
(www.thebahrainyachtclub.com)
 So what if you can’t hit the F1 circuit a la Hamilton in a tripped up Mercedes-Benz F1
W08 Hybrid? The Bahrain International Circuit offers night go-karting for all you speed
junkies out there. (www.bahraingp.com)
 Learn to skydive at Gravity Indoor Skydiving and get certified at one of the world’s
tallest indoor skydiving wind tunnels at 12 meters. (www.gravitybah.com)

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the September 2017 issue of Jetwings Domestic in-flight magazine of Jet Airways https://www.jetairways.com/EN/DE/JetExperience/magazines.aspx) 

Where Past and Present Meet!

An almost tropical archipelago slap bang in the middle of the Persian Gulf, Bahrain shatters every single Middle East cliché. So, ignore the searing heat and plunge yourselves into the vast depths of culture, history and unrivalled beauty that this ‘Pearl of the Gulf’ has on offer, says Raul Dias  

It’s late July and I’m in hot, hot, hottest Bahrain on a trip, that I’d been warned, will have me, to quote a friend “cooked all through with a crispy skin!” With images of a glistening roast chicken swimming in my mind, I step outside the cool confines of my plush hotel. All at once a searing blast of torrid, humid air sucker-punches me in the solar plexus. It’s not hot, it’s SEARING and barely 10 feet into my walk to the parked mini bus, I’m all but drenched in sweat.
But then I guess that’s the price you pay when you’re a die-hard traveller like me for whom dispelling myths is a joy like no other. And Bahrain is one helluva cliché buster. Think the ‘Middle East’ and think deserts, camels, vast barren lands, right? How about lush palm trees, white-sanded tropical islands and cerulean-hued coral reefs that team with myriad sea life? Yes, the 33 natural islands archipelago that is Bahrain is a curious mix of all the above descriptors and so much more…

Home to the ancient Dilmun civilisation that thrived 5,000 years ago—which believed that the secret to eternal life lay in the sea surrounding Bahrain—it is no surprise then that the nation gets its name from this myth. Apparently, the sea had certain pockets of sweet water that gushed up from underground streams and mingled with the salty water. It is this mélange—that formed two seas—to which modern Bahrain owes its name: bahr which means sea in Arabic and ‘thnain which is two.

Of Marvels—Both Ancient and Modern!
Speaking of the sea, one of the first things on my agenda is a drive up the famous King Fahd Causeway. As one of the world’s longest bridges between two countries at 25 kms, this modern architectural marvel—completed in 1986 at the cost of $1 billion—links Bahrain with Saudi Arabia and is a breathtaking sight. Although our bus couldn’t actually cross over onto the Saudi Arabia span of the bridge, we were satisfied with a sneak peek at the rather menacing-looking border security guards on the other side. 

Back on mainland Bahrain, it’s capital Manama was where we were headed next to pay obeisance to one of the island nation’s most iconic landmarks. More commonly known as the Bahrain Fort, Qal’at Al Bahrain offers a great panoramic view of both the seashore and of the capital Manama’s startlingly modern skyline. Designated as a World Heritage site in 2005, the fort comprises four elements—the moat, an ancient sea tower, a sea channel and palm grove— and is a masterpiece of the Portuguese occupation of Bahrain in the 16^th century. Interestingly, excavations at the moat are proof that there has been an unbroken occupation of the site over a 4,500-year period right from the time Bahrain was the capital of the Dilmun civilisation.

Blasts from the Past
The picturesque coastal village of Al Jasra is situated on the western coast of the country and is famous for the superbly preserved Al Jasra House. Made of coral stone and palm tree trunks, the house was built in 1907 and was the birthplace in 1933 of the former Emir (king) of Bahrain, Sheikh Isa bin Sulman Al Khalifa. The house today is maintained as a museum with everything from the old kitchen utensils to the majlis (men’s lounge) on display for visitors to get an idea of traditional Bahraini living. Al Jasra House also offers a fascinating glimpse into a not-so-distant past when wind towers (ingenious cooling systems predating air conditioning) called barjeels in Arabic dominated the Bahraini skyline.
Another reminder of Bahrain’s past, but this time as a trading stronghold is the Bab Al Bahrain at the mouth of the Manama Souq (market). Quite literally meaning ‘Gateway to Bahrain’, this gate-like structure was originally at the water’s edge when first constructed in 1945. But today, due to extensive reclamation of the sea, it is now bordered by skyscraper-infested reclaimed land and a gurgling fountain in front of it.
Undable to resist the lure of typically Bahraini spices like the zesty za’ataar, the tangy sumac and Bahrain’s favourite flavouring agent—saffron, we made our way through the souq’s meandering alleyways. And it was here that we sat down for a local meal at a small restaurant that served us a yummy lunch of the roast lamb and rice dish of qouzi with sides of hummus and the eggplant-redolent moutabel—all washed down with a glass of the sunshine-hued saffron sherbet.

Return Guaranteed?
With the brilliance of the sun still on our minds, seeing it set at another Bahraini icon—located far into the arid desert, amidst vast nothingness—seemed appropriate. Many believe that there is no better way to end your Bahrain sojourn than by placing your hands on the gnarly trunk of a 400 years old mesquite tree standing stoically alone in the desert. Called the Tree of Life—or Shajarat Al Hayat as it is fondly named by the locals, it is Bahrain’s answer to the clichéd coin toss at Rome’s Trevi Fountain. Only this one won’t cost you a dime to ensure your return to the stunning island nation. Just a good old rub of its trunk at sunset and your revisit to Bahrain is almost guaranteed.
Now that’s one wish I sincerely hope comes true!

 Pics courtesy: At Bahrain and BTEA

FACT FILE
Getting There
There are a number of daily direct flights from Mumbai to Bahrain’s capital Manama on airlines like Air India, Jet Airways and Gulf Air. Travel within Bahrain is very easy, given its small size and most places in the country are under an hour away from each other. Bahrain’s super-efficient buses, taxis and boats make travelling within the archipelago a treat! Indian passport holders need an e-visa to enter Bahrain which is very easy to procure.

When To Visit
With Bahrain enjoying a pleasant climate during the winter months and brutally hot, humid summers, the best months to travel are from November to early March when there is a gentle nip in the air and sunny skies!

Accommodation
Bahrain has an excellent selection of hotels to choose from to suit all budgets and tastes. Some of the best value-for-money options are:

·         The Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain (www.ritzcarlton.com)

·         Hotel Sofitel Bahrain Zallaq Thalassa Sea & Spa (www.sofitel.com)

·         ART Rotana Hotel & Resort (www.rotana.com)

·         Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay (www.fourseasons.com)

For More Information Visit
www.btea.bh, www.at-bahrain.com 

(A shorter, edited version of this article appeared in the 19th August 2017 issue of the Afternoon Despatch & Courier newspaper, India http://www.afternoondc.in/mumbai-mix/where-past-and-present-meet/article_202485)