From its well-preserved old houses and imposing forts to its vertiginous skyline and adventure sports prowess, the archipelago in the Persian Gulf that is Bahrain continues to stay true to its heritage and ancient culture, while embracing modernity with all its might
By Raul Dias
There is a plant that grows under the water. It has a prickle like a thorn, like a rose; it will
wound your hand. But if you succeed in taking it, then your hands will hold that which restores
his lost youth to a man...
So reads a very crucial couplet of the Epic of Gilgamesh, as etched onto clay tablets more than
5,000 years ago by the Sumerians of ancient Mesopotamia. The epic chronicles King Gilgamesh
of Uruk’s (modern day Iraq) quest for eternal life in the sea surrounding Dilmun which was what
Bahrain was known as then. Apparently, the sea had certain pockets of sweet water that gushed
forth from underground streams and mingled with the salty water. It is this mélange—that
formed two seas—to which modern Bahrain owes its name: bahr which means sea in Arabic and
‘thnain which is two.
National Pride
It is legends and myths like this that abound at the superbly curated exhibits of the Bahrain
National Museum that’s set on the waterfront of the eastern shore of the capital, Manama.
Though built only in 1988, the museum offers a holistic view of the country through the ages
from the Dilmun era to present day. And speaking of the former, an exhibit that mustn’t be
overlooked is that of the reconstructed ancient burial mound dating to around 2800 BC.
As Bahrain’s second largest island, Muharraq is steeped in history and is a treasure trove of old-
style houses that are all very lovingly preserved, with many making it to the UNESCO heritage
list. Chief among these is the Shaikh Isa House that was once the home of the country’s longest
reigning sovereign (1869-1932), Shaikh Isa Bin Ali Al Khalifa. Don’t miss the house’s
brilliantly designed wind tower called a barjeel that is believed to have cooled the house to
almost air conditioner like temperatures in the summer. Equally impressive is the Kurar House
where the ancient Bahraini embroidery technique called kurar is still practiced and on proud
display.
Grand Edifices
Back in Manama, sneak into the Ahmed Al Fateh Grand Mosque for a quick visit and marvel at
the world’s largest fiberglass dome, with a huge glittering chandelier from Austria and carpets
from Ireland. Able to accommodate 7,000 worshippers at one time—in its main hall and in its
outdoor quadrangle—the sheer scale of the mosque is breathtaking. Free guided tours are offered
to everybody and is something strongly recommended to get a better understanding of the edifice
and what it means to the local Bahrainis.
Another pit stop that comes well-recommended is the Bahrain Fort. More commonly known as
Qal’at Al Bahrain, the fort offers a great panoramic view of both the seashore and of Manama’s
startlingly modern skyline. Designated as a World Heritage site in 2005, the fort comprises four
elements—the moat, an ancient sea tower, a sea channel and palm grove—is a masterpiece of the
Portuguese occupation of Bahrain in the 16 th century. But do make sure to time your visit
towards sunset when it’s not only cooler, but also when the fading, twinkling sunlight does its
number on the calm waves that surround the fort.
The Sea’s Bounty
An archipelago of 33 islands, with an impressively long coastline, much of Bahraini life is
centered around the sea whose cerulean waters hold forth one of the country’s greatest calling
cards—Pearls! Though it is oil that has brought prosperity to the region, it was the pearl that put
Bahrain on the map as the ‘Pearling Capital of the World’. Irregular in shape than most other
pearls in the world, it is this imperfection that makes the Bahraini pearl a much sought-after
jewel. Join in on a pearling expedition with local divers or have a go at it yourself (see box).
Or perhaps sign up for a dolphin watching tour at Al Dar Islands, 12 km southeast of the coast of
Manama. Get up close and personal with the playful mammals whose clicks and squeals compete
with the shrieks of the gulls who try and steal the sardines visitors are made to feed the dolphins
with.
Another way to feel the pulse of Bahrain’s rich maritime culture is to pay a visit to a traditional
ship-building yard. Called a dhow, these wooden vessels are still built today in the same way
they were generations ago. At the fishermen’s wharf off Sheikh Khalifa Highway just past the
Coast Guard station is the yard where you can marvel at how builders craft hulls from curved
teak wood and join planks together to form the dhows that can cost up to $30,000 apiece and
that’s without the engine installed.
Different Flavours Galore…
Reminding you that you’re still very much in the Middle East is the Manama Souq (market) with
its labyrinthine alleys. Fronted by the impressive Bab Al Bahrain or ‘Gateway to Bahrain’, the
souq has shops selling everything from typically Bahraini spices like the zesty za’ataar and the
tangy sumac to the dry, black, preserved lemons. Stop by a small, local eatery in the souq for an
early dinner of maglooba which is rice cooked with meat, potatoes and eggplant and jireesh a
risotto-meets- khichdi made up of cooked spelt with chicken and tomatoes. Finish off your meal
with a rather unusual dessert called balaleet which is an Indian-influenced dish made from
sweetened, saffron-flavoured vermicelli topped with an omelet!
For a more eclectic and artsy dining scene head out to Adliya in central Manama. But more
specifically to the quarter’s chic District 338 for sundowners at one of its many trendy lounge
bars and restaurants where the hip, young Bahrainis hang out and enjoy a rather raucous night
out. This partly pedestrianised area with its contemporary artwork installations on every street corner is a great place to simply sit back and take in the ‘Many Bahrains’ you’d have probably
encountered on your trip. Each so very different from the other, yet collectively existing in amazing parallel synchrony!
Bahrain—The Middle East’s Adventure Sports Capital!
There can be no better way to bring a bit of Bahrain’s pearling history to life than by
diving for your own pearl close to Al Dar Island. And no, one doesn’t have to be a
certified diver to experience the thrill of opening your own pearl oyster, as you’ll be
snorkeling in shallow waters. (www.aldarislands.com)
From sailing, powerboating and windsurfing to kite surfing, paddle boarding and
kayaking, the Bahrain Yacht Club offers both training and equipment on hire.
(www.thebahrainyachtclub.com)
So what if you can’t hit the F1 circuit a la Hamilton in a tripped up Mercedes-Benz F1
W08 Hybrid? The Bahrain International Circuit offers night go-karting for all you speed
junkies out there. (www.bahraingp.com)
Learn to skydive at Gravity Indoor Skydiving and get certified at one of the world’s
tallest indoor skydiving wind tunnels at 12 meters. (www.gravitybah.com)
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the September 2017 issue of Jetwings Domestic in-flight magazine of Jet Airways https://www.jetairways.com/EN/DE/JetExperience/magazines.aspx)
By Raul Dias
There is a plant that grows under the water. It has a prickle like a thorn, like a rose; it will
wound your hand. But if you succeed in taking it, then your hands will hold that which restores
his lost youth to a man...
So reads a very crucial couplet of the Epic of Gilgamesh, as etched onto clay tablets more than
5,000 years ago by the Sumerians of ancient Mesopotamia. The epic chronicles King Gilgamesh
of Uruk’s (modern day Iraq) quest for eternal life in the sea surrounding Dilmun which was what
Bahrain was known as then. Apparently, the sea had certain pockets of sweet water that gushed
forth from underground streams and mingled with the salty water. It is this mélange—that
formed two seas—to which modern Bahrain owes its name: bahr which means sea in Arabic and
‘thnain which is two.
National Pride
It is legends and myths like this that abound at the superbly curated exhibits of the Bahrain
National Museum that’s set on the waterfront of the eastern shore of the capital, Manama.
Though built only in 1988, the museum offers a holistic view of the country through the ages
from the Dilmun era to present day. And speaking of the former, an exhibit that mustn’t be
overlooked is that of the reconstructed ancient burial mound dating to around 2800 BC.
As Bahrain’s second largest island, Muharraq is steeped in history and is a treasure trove of old-
style houses that are all very lovingly preserved, with many making it to the UNESCO heritage
list. Chief among these is the Shaikh Isa House that was once the home of the country’s longest
reigning sovereign (1869-1932), Shaikh Isa Bin Ali Al Khalifa. Don’t miss the house’s
brilliantly designed wind tower called a barjeel that is believed to have cooled the house to
almost air conditioner like temperatures in the summer. Equally impressive is the Kurar House
where the ancient Bahraini embroidery technique called kurar is still practiced and on proud
display.
Grand Edifices
Back in Manama, sneak into the Ahmed Al Fateh Grand Mosque for a quick visit and marvel at
the world’s largest fiberglass dome, with a huge glittering chandelier from Austria and carpets
from Ireland. Able to accommodate 7,000 worshippers at one time—in its main hall and in its
outdoor quadrangle—the sheer scale of the mosque is breathtaking. Free guided tours are offered
to everybody and is something strongly recommended to get a better understanding of the edifice
and what it means to the local Bahrainis.
Another pit stop that comes well-recommended is the Bahrain Fort. More commonly known as
Qal’at Al Bahrain, the fort offers a great panoramic view of both the seashore and of Manama’s
startlingly modern skyline. Designated as a World Heritage site in 2005, the fort comprises four
elements—the moat, an ancient sea tower, a sea channel and palm grove—is a masterpiece of the
Portuguese occupation of Bahrain in the 16 th century. But do make sure to time your visit
towards sunset when it’s not only cooler, but also when the fading, twinkling sunlight does its
number on the calm waves that surround the fort.
The Sea’s Bounty
An archipelago of 33 islands, with an impressively long coastline, much of Bahraini life is
centered around the sea whose cerulean waters hold forth one of the country’s greatest calling
cards—Pearls! Though it is oil that has brought prosperity to the region, it was the pearl that put
Bahrain on the map as the ‘Pearling Capital of the World’. Irregular in shape than most other
pearls in the world, it is this imperfection that makes the Bahraini pearl a much sought-after
jewel. Join in on a pearling expedition with local divers or have a go at it yourself (see box).
Or perhaps sign up for a dolphin watching tour at Al Dar Islands, 12 km southeast of the coast of
Manama. Get up close and personal with the playful mammals whose clicks and squeals compete
with the shrieks of the gulls who try and steal the sardines visitors are made to feed the dolphins
with.
Another way to feel the pulse of Bahrain’s rich maritime culture is to pay a visit to a traditional
ship-building yard. Called a dhow, these wooden vessels are still built today in the same way
they were generations ago. At the fishermen’s wharf off Sheikh Khalifa Highway just past the
Coast Guard station is the yard where you can marvel at how builders craft hulls from curved
teak wood and join planks together to form the dhows that can cost up to $30,000 apiece and
that’s without the engine installed.
Different Flavours Galore…
Reminding you that you’re still very much in the Middle East is the Manama Souq (market) with
its labyrinthine alleys. Fronted by the impressive Bab Al Bahrain or ‘Gateway to Bahrain’, the
souq has shops selling everything from typically Bahraini spices like the zesty za’ataar and the
tangy sumac to the dry, black, preserved lemons. Stop by a small, local eatery in the souq for an
early dinner of maglooba which is rice cooked with meat, potatoes and eggplant and jireesh a
risotto-meets- khichdi made up of cooked spelt with chicken and tomatoes. Finish off your meal
with a rather unusual dessert called balaleet which is an Indian-influenced dish made from
sweetened, saffron-flavoured vermicelli topped with an omelet!
For a more eclectic and artsy dining scene head out to Adliya in central Manama. But more
specifically to the quarter’s chic District 338 for sundowners at one of its many trendy lounge
bars and restaurants where the hip, young Bahrainis hang out and enjoy a rather raucous night
out. This partly pedestrianised area with its contemporary artwork installations on every street corner is a great place to simply sit back and take in the ‘Many Bahrains’ you’d have probably
encountered on your trip. Each so very different from the other, yet collectively existing in amazing parallel synchrony!
Bahrain—The Middle East’s Adventure Sports Capital!
There can be no better way to bring a bit of Bahrain’s pearling history to life than by
diving for your own pearl close to Al Dar Island. And no, one doesn’t have to be a
certified diver to experience the thrill of opening your own pearl oyster, as you’ll be
snorkeling in shallow waters. (www.aldarislands.com)
From sailing, powerboating and windsurfing to kite surfing, paddle boarding and
kayaking, the Bahrain Yacht Club offers both training and equipment on hire.
(www.thebahrainyachtclub.com)
So what if you can’t hit the F1 circuit a la Hamilton in a tripped up Mercedes-Benz F1
W08 Hybrid? The Bahrain International Circuit offers night go-karting for all you speed
junkies out there. (www.bahraingp.com)
Learn to skydive at Gravity Indoor Skydiving and get certified at one of the world’s
tallest indoor skydiving wind tunnels at 12 meters. (www.gravitybah.com)
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the September 2017 issue of Jetwings Domestic in-flight magazine of Jet Airways https://www.jetairways.com/EN/DE/JetExperience/magazines.aspx)
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