Hotel Review: The Ritz-Carlton Bahrain, Manama In Bahrain

This article was first published online on 12th October 2020 in Luxury Lifestyle Magazine, UK https://www.luxurylifestylemag.co.uk/travel/hotel-review-the-ritz-carlton-bahrain-manama-in-bahrain/

Pearl of the Gulf

Rich with history—both ancient and modern—Bahrain truly is a Middle Eastern jewel with a lot on offer from to its futuristic skyline to its ancient pearl trade and splendid forts. We tap into a few of its unmissable attractions that every visitor to this fascinating archipelago must pay heed to!

By Raul Dias


Quick question: what comes to your mind when someone utters the words “Middle East”.
Deserts? Camels? Vast, barren lands? How about lush palm trees, white-sanded tropical islands
and cerulean-hued coral reefs that team with myriad sea life? Yes, the 33 natural islands
archipelago that is Bahrain is a curious mix of all the above descriptors and so much more…
Home to the ancient Dilmun civilisation that thrived 5,000 years ago—which believed that the
secret to eternal life lay in the sea surrounding Bahrain—it is no surprise then that the nation gets
its name from this myth. Apparently, the sea had certain pockets of sweet water that gushed up
from underground streams and mingled with the salty water. It is this mélange—that formed two
seas—to which modern Bahrain owes its name: bahr which means sea in Arabic and ‘thnain
which is two.
With over 4,000 years of trading history—with pearls, then oil and now tourism—behind it,
hospitality is an intrinsic part of the local Bahrainis’ DNA. As some of the warmest people in the
Middle East…nay, the world even, it is the locals that add that special touch to your visit with
their infectious smiles and welcoming words.
And while there is just so much to do and see when in Bahrain, in honour of brevity we’ve
narrowed our list down to a few must-dos. They may not ‘complete’ your visit to Bahrain, but
are enough to give you a sneak-peek into its diverse attractions and sights:

Pay Obeisance At The Ahmed Al Fateh Grand Mosque
Crowned by the world’s largest fiberglass dome, with a huge glittering chandelier from Austria
and carpets from Ireland, the Ahmed Al Fateh Grand Mosque truly is awe-inspiring. Its clean,
linear architecture is a subtle reflection of Middle Eastern elements. Able to accommodate 7,000
worshippers at one time—in its main hall and in its outdoor quadrangle, the sheer scale of the
mosque is breathtaking. Free guided tours are offered to everybody—irrespective of gender, race
and religion and is something strongly recommended to get a better understanding of the edifice
and what it means to the local Bahrainis.

Walk Up The Rampart Of The Qal’at Al Bahrain
More commonly known as the Bahrain Fort, Qal’at Al Bahrain—that offers a great panoramic
view of both the seashore and of the capital Manama’s startlingly modern skyline—was
designated as a World Heritage site in 2005. The fort that comprises four elements—the moat, an
ancient sea tower, a sea channel and palm grove—is a masterpiece of the Portuguese occupation of Bahrain in the 16 th century. Interestingly, excavations at the moat are proof that there has been
an unbroken occupation of the site over a 4,500-year period right from the time Bahrain was the
capital of the Dilmun civilisation.

Blast Into The Past!
As Bahrain’s second largest island, Muharraq is steeped in history and is a treasure trove of old-
style houses that are all very lovingly preserved, with many making it to the UNESCO heritage
list. Chief among these is the Shaikh Isa House that was once the home of the country’s longest
reigning sovereign (1869-1932), Shaikh Isa Bin Ali Al Khalifa. Don’t miss the house’s
brilliantly designed wind tower called a barjeel that is believed to have cooled the house to
almost air conditioner like temperatures in the summer. Equally impressive is the 100-year- old
Abdulla Al Zayed House that is the home of Abdulla Al Zayed (the publisher of the Gulf’s first
daily newspaper) and the Kurar House where the ancient Bahraini embroidery technique called
kurar is still practiced and on proud display.

Speedboat It Out To Al Dar islands
Enjoy a spot of tropical sea, sun, surf and sand by hotfooting your way by speed boat to the small
islands of Al Dar. A group of resort islands near Sitra, Al Dar is around 12 km southeast of
Manama. Here, one can hire out a palm-thatched beach cabanna and swim in the crystal-clear
waters, while chomping on a burger and sipping on a cold beer. Yes, alcohol is very much
readily available, not just at the bar on Al Dar, but in the rest of Bahrain as well. Come sunset,
you can even bring out your grill for an evening of BBQ on the soft white sands!

Immerse Yourself In The Tastes And Smells Of Bahrain
There can be no better place in any Middle Eastern country than a souq (local market) to dive
head-on into the kaleidoscopic world of flavours. The Manama souq in the heart of the city is
one such magical place where the meandering alleyways throw up shops selling everything from
typically Bahraini spices like the zesty za’ataar and the tangy sumac to Bahrain’s favourite
flavouring agent—saffron! Stop by a small, local eatery in the souq for a meal of the chicken and
rice dish of maqboos with sides of hummus and the eggplant-redolent moutabel—all washed
down with a glass of the sunshine-hued saffron sherbet.

Get All Oiled Up
Hang on, don’t let your imagination run wild! We’re simply alluding to the one thing that has
truly made the Middle East the powerhouse that it is today—oil. Discovered rather
serendipitously in 1931 by a goatherder seeking a water well, Bahrain’s first oil well aptly named
Oil Well No.1 is situated at the foothill of Jebal Al Dukhan or the Montain of Smoke in the south
of the country. However, it was only on 2 nd June, 1932 that oil began to gush forth from this well
and thus sealing the fate of this country forever. Right next to the well is the Oil Museum where
the exhibits include old drilling equipment, photographs and a working model of an oil rig to
give you an insight into the region’s best-known export.

Spend Sunset At Shajarat Al Hayat
Far into the arid desert, amidst vast nothingness is a mesquite tree standing stoically alone. Many
believe that there is no better way to end your Bahrain sojourn than by placing your hands on the
gnarly trunk of the 400 plus years old Tree of Life—or Shajarat Al Hayat as it is called
locally—at sunset and wishing to be back there soon. Yes, local legend has it that anyone
touching the ancient tree will return to Bahrain. Amen to that, we say!


FACT FILE
Getting There
There are a number of daily direct flights from India to Bahrain’s capital Manama on airlines like
Air India, Jet Airways and Gulf Air. Travel within Bahrain is very easy, given its small size and
most places in the country are under an hour away from each other. Bahrain’s super-efficient
buses, taxis and boats make travelling within the archipelago a treat! Indian passport holders
need an e-visa to enter Bahrain which is very easy to procure.
When To Visit
With Bahrain enjoying a pleasant climate during the winter months and brutally hot, humid
summers, the best months to travel are from November to early March when there is a gentle nip
in the air and sunny skies!
Accommodation
Bahrain has an excellent selection of hotels to choose from to suit all budgets and tastes. Some of
the best value-for- money options are:
 The Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain (www.ritzcarlton.com)
 Hotel Sofitel Bahrain Zallaq Thalassa Sea & Spa (www.sofitel.com)
 ART Rotana Hotel & Resort (www.rotana.com)
 Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay (www.fourseasons.com)

For More Information Visit
www.btea.bh, www.at-bahrain.com

(A shorter, differently edited version of this piece was first published in the October 2017 issue of The Week's Smart Life magazine)

A-N-A-T-O-M-I-Z-E: Traditional Bahraini Breakfast

By Raul Dias

I’m greeted with an emphatic “namaste!” at the first place I stop at, while “kaise ho?” is what I’m asked at the second. It’s a mere three hours into my first visit to the 33-island archipelago in the Persian Gulf known as Bahrain and I can see India referenced almost everywhere I go. But then the Manama Souq—which is where I am—is no stranger to Indian culture and in this case, food.
Fronted by the impressive Bab Al Bahrain or ‘Gateway to Bahrain’, this heaving marketplace is the
nation’s capital Manama’s nerve center; as it has been for years. It is also where centuries of trade ties
with India—mainly involving pearls and spices—have been fostered and nurtured. It’s early in the
morning and a traditional Bahraini breakfast is what I’m craving for after hearing about it from my friend and de facto Bahrain guide Zahra.
Settling down at a local coffee house with our tall, frosted mugs of saffron sherbet in front of us, I wait in anticipation for the promised breakfast bonanza to unfold. And what a feast it turns out to be! We begin with the breads, where an unusually fishy taste in one of them intrigues my palate. It turns out to be the mihyawa which is a roomali roti-like folded bread that’s sprinkled with fish sauce. Next, I tear into the khubooz which is a Persian bread that is very popular in Bahrain. I use this to scoop up the spicy, tangy bayd—a dead ringer for the Parsi scrambled eggs dish we know as akuri.
With the unusual twinning of salty cheese and apricot jam at its core, the triangular shaped, donut-like stuffed zinjubari maintains a fine balance between its sweet and savoury components. It’s the perfect foil to the two kinds of luba I try next. Essentially a tangy beans’ stew, the first iteration is made with broad beans and cheese, while the other with red beans and tomato sauce was not at all dissimilar to a spice-bereft rajma back home.
Simly called aloo, the cumin redolent sautéed potato dish, I am told, is an out and out knock-off of India’s ubiquitous zeera aloo. Another one of the breads intrigues me and it’s the pau. A fusion of a classic Bambaiyya vada pav and a Kutchi dabeli, this mashed potato-stuffed sandwich is even anointed with a garnish of crunchy sev noodles and pomegranate seeds!
Speaking of noodles, the last dish in my Bahraini breakfast procession is balaleet which is another sweet-savoury aberration. This one sees saffron-saturated vermicelli noodles cooked in ghee and sugar, crowned with a fluffy, savoury egg omelette that adds not just a contrasting texture, but an unusually yummy flavour when mixed with the sweet noodles.
From sweet with savoury and Bahraini with Indian, fusion was never this fabulous. Trust me!

(This column first appeared in the 17th September 2017 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 8 http://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/food/the-bahraini-breakfast/article19697500.ece)

Soul of the Gulf

From its well-preserved old houses and imposing forts to its vertiginous skyline and adventure sports prowess, the archipelago in the Persian Gulf that is Bahrain continues to stay true to its heritage and ancient culture, while embracing modernity with all its might

By Raul Dias

There is a plant that grows under the water. It has a prickle like a thorn, like a rose; it will
wound your hand. But if you succeed in taking it, then your hands will hold that which restores
his lost youth to a man...
So reads a very crucial couplet of the Epic of Gilgamesh, as etched onto clay tablets more than
5,000 years ago by the Sumerians of ancient Mesopotamia. The epic chronicles King Gilgamesh
of Uruk’s (modern day Iraq) quest for eternal life in the sea surrounding Dilmun which was what
Bahrain was known as then. Apparently, the sea had certain pockets of sweet water that gushed
forth from underground streams and mingled with the salty water. It is this mélange—that
formed two seas—to which modern Bahrain owes its name: bahr which means sea in Arabic and
‘thnain which is two.

National Pride
It is legends and myths like this that abound at the superbly curated exhibits of the Bahrain
National Museum that’s set on the waterfront of the eastern shore of the capital, Manama.
Though built only in 1988, the museum offers a holistic view of the country through the ages
from the Dilmun era to present day. And speaking of the former, an exhibit that mustn’t be
overlooked is that of the reconstructed ancient burial mound dating to around 2800 BC.
As Bahrain’s second largest island, Muharraq is steeped in history and is a treasure trove of old-
style houses that are all very lovingly preserved, with many making it to the UNESCO heritage
list. Chief among these is the Shaikh Isa House that was once the home of the country’s longest
reigning sovereign (1869-1932), Shaikh Isa Bin Ali Al Khalifa. Don’t miss the house’s
brilliantly designed wind tower called a barjeel that is believed to have cooled the house to
almost air conditioner like temperatures in the summer. Equally impressive is the Kurar House
where the ancient Bahraini embroidery technique called kurar is still practiced and on proud
display.

Grand Edifices
Back in Manama, sneak into the Ahmed Al Fateh Grand Mosque for a quick visit and marvel at
the world’s largest fiberglass dome, with a huge glittering chandelier from Austria and carpets
from Ireland. Able to accommodate 7,000 worshippers at one time—in its main hall and in its
outdoor quadrangle—the sheer scale of the mosque is breathtaking. Free guided tours are offered
to everybody and is something strongly recommended to get a better understanding of the edifice
and what it means to the local Bahrainis.
Another pit stop that comes well-recommended is the Bahrain Fort. More commonly known as
Qal’at Al Bahrain, the fort offers a great panoramic view of both the seashore and of Manama’s
startlingly modern skyline. Designated as a World Heritage site in 2005, the fort comprises four
elements—the moat, an ancient sea tower, a sea channel and palm grove—is a masterpiece of the
Portuguese occupation of Bahrain in the 16 th century. But do make sure to time your visit
towards sunset when it’s not only cooler, but also when the fading, twinkling sunlight does its
number on the calm waves that surround the fort.

The Sea’s Bounty
An archipelago of 33 islands, with an impressively long coastline, much of Bahraini life is
centered around the sea whose cerulean waters hold forth one of the country’s greatest calling
cards—Pearls! Though it is oil that has brought prosperity to the region, it was the pearl that put
Bahrain on the map as the ‘Pearling Capital of the World’. Irregular in shape than most other
pearls in the world, it is this imperfection that makes the Bahraini pearl a much sought-after
jewel. Join in on a pearling expedition with local divers or have a go at it yourself (see box).
Or perhaps sign up for a dolphin watching tour at Al Dar Islands, 12 km southeast of the coast of
Manama. Get up close and personal with the playful mammals whose clicks and squeals compete
with the shrieks of the gulls who try and steal the sardines visitors are made to feed the dolphins
with.
Another way to feel the pulse of Bahrain’s rich maritime culture is to pay a visit to a traditional
ship-building yard. Called a dhow, these wooden vessels are still built today in the same way
they were generations ago. At the fishermen’s wharf off Sheikh Khalifa Highway just past the
Coast Guard station is the yard where you can marvel at how builders craft hulls from curved
teak wood and join planks together to form the dhows that can cost up to $30,000 apiece and
that’s without the engine installed.

Different Flavours Galore…
Reminding you that you’re still very much in the Middle East is the Manama Souq (market) with
its labyrinthine alleys. Fronted by the impressive Bab Al Bahrain or ‘Gateway to Bahrain’, the
souq has shops selling everything from typically Bahraini spices like the zesty za’ataar and the
tangy sumac to the dry, black, preserved lemons. Stop by a small, local eatery in the souq for an
early dinner of maglooba which is rice cooked with meat, potatoes and eggplant and jireesh a
risotto-meets- khichdi made up of cooked spelt with chicken and tomatoes. Finish off your meal
with a rather unusual dessert called balaleet which is an Indian-influenced dish made from
sweetened, saffron-flavoured vermicelli topped with an omelet!
For a more eclectic and artsy dining scene head out to Adliya in central Manama. But more
specifically to the quarter’s chic District 338 for sundowners at one of its many trendy lounge
bars and restaurants where the hip, young Bahrainis hang out and enjoy a rather raucous night
out. This partly pedestrianised area with its contemporary artwork installations on every street corner is a great place to simply sit back and take in the ‘Many Bahrains’ you’d have probably
encountered on your trip. Each so very different from the other, yet collectively existing in amazing parallel synchrony!


Bahrain—The Middle East’s Adventure Sports Capital!
 There can be no better way to bring a bit of Bahrain’s pearling history to life than by
diving for your own pearl close to Al Dar Island. And no, one doesn’t have to be a
certified diver to experience the thrill of opening your own pearl oyster, as you’ll be
snorkeling in shallow waters. (www.aldarislands.com)
 From sailing, powerboating and windsurfing to kite surfing, paddle boarding and
kayaking, the Bahrain Yacht Club offers both training and equipment on hire.
(www.thebahrainyachtclub.com)
 So what if you can’t hit the F1 circuit a la Hamilton in a tripped up Mercedes-Benz F1
W08 Hybrid? The Bahrain International Circuit offers night go-karting for all you speed
junkies out there. (www.bahraingp.com)
 Learn to skydive at Gravity Indoor Skydiving and get certified at one of the world’s
tallest indoor skydiving wind tunnels at 12 meters. (www.gravitybah.com)

(An edited version of this article first appeared in the September 2017 issue of Jetwings Domestic in-flight magazine of Jet Airways https://www.jetairways.com/EN/DE/JetExperience/magazines.aspx) 

Where Past and Present Meet!

An almost tropical archipelago slap bang in the middle of the Persian Gulf, Bahrain shatters every single Middle East cliché. So, ignore the searing heat and plunge yourselves into the vast depths of culture, history and unrivalled beauty that this ‘Pearl of the Gulf’ has on offer, says Raul Dias  

It’s late July and I’m in hot, hot, hottest Bahrain on a trip, that I’d been warned, will have me, to quote a friend “cooked all through with a crispy skin!” With images of a glistening roast chicken swimming in my mind, I step outside the cool confines of my plush hotel. All at once a searing blast of torrid, humid air sucker-punches me in the solar plexus. It’s not hot, it’s SEARING and barely 10 feet into my walk to the parked mini bus, I’m all but drenched in sweat.
But then I guess that’s the price you pay when you’re a die-hard traveller like me for whom dispelling myths is a joy like no other. And Bahrain is one helluva cliché buster. Think the ‘Middle East’ and think deserts, camels, vast barren lands, right? How about lush palm trees, white-sanded tropical islands and cerulean-hued coral reefs that team with myriad sea life? Yes, the 33 natural islands archipelago that is Bahrain is a curious mix of all the above descriptors and so much more…

Home to the ancient Dilmun civilisation that thrived 5,000 years ago—which believed that the secret to eternal life lay in the sea surrounding Bahrain—it is no surprise then that the nation gets its name from this myth. Apparently, the sea had certain pockets of sweet water that gushed up from underground streams and mingled with the salty water. It is this mélange—that formed two seas—to which modern Bahrain owes its name: bahr which means sea in Arabic and ‘thnain which is two.

Of Marvels—Both Ancient and Modern!
Speaking of the sea, one of the first things on my agenda is a drive up the famous King Fahd Causeway. As one of the world’s longest bridges between two countries at 25 kms, this modern architectural marvel—completed in 1986 at the cost of $1 billion—links Bahrain with Saudi Arabia and is a breathtaking sight. Although our bus couldn’t actually cross over onto the Saudi Arabia span of the bridge, we were satisfied with a sneak peek at the rather menacing-looking border security guards on the other side. 

Back on mainland Bahrain, it’s capital Manama was where we were headed next to pay obeisance to one of the island nation’s most iconic landmarks. More commonly known as the Bahrain Fort, Qal’at Al Bahrain offers a great panoramic view of both the seashore and of the capital Manama’s startlingly modern skyline. Designated as a World Heritage site in 2005, the fort comprises four elements—the moat, an ancient sea tower, a sea channel and palm grove— and is a masterpiece of the Portuguese occupation of Bahrain in the 16^th century. Interestingly, excavations at the moat are proof that there has been an unbroken occupation of the site over a 4,500-year period right from the time Bahrain was the capital of the Dilmun civilisation.

Blasts from the Past
The picturesque coastal village of Al Jasra is situated on the western coast of the country and is famous for the superbly preserved Al Jasra House. Made of coral stone and palm tree trunks, the house was built in 1907 and was the birthplace in 1933 of the former Emir (king) of Bahrain, Sheikh Isa bin Sulman Al Khalifa. The house today is maintained as a museum with everything from the old kitchen utensils to the majlis (men’s lounge) on display for visitors to get an idea of traditional Bahraini living. Al Jasra House also offers a fascinating glimpse into a not-so-distant past when wind towers (ingenious cooling systems predating air conditioning) called barjeels in Arabic dominated the Bahraini skyline.
Another reminder of Bahrain’s past, but this time as a trading stronghold is the Bab Al Bahrain at the mouth of the Manama Souq (market). Quite literally meaning ‘Gateway to Bahrain’, this gate-like structure was originally at the water’s edge when first constructed in 1945. But today, due to extensive reclamation of the sea, it is now bordered by skyscraper-infested reclaimed land and a gurgling fountain in front of it.
Undable to resist the lure of typically Bahraini spices like the zesty za’ataar, the tangy sumac and Bahrain’s favourite flavouring agent—saffron, we made our way through the souq’s meandering alleyways. And it was here that we sat down for a local meal at a small restaurant that served us a yummy lunch of the roast lamb and rice dish of qouzi with sides of hummus and the eggplant-redolent moutabel—all washed down with a glass of the sunshine-hued saffron sherbet.

Return Guaranteed?
With the brilliance of the sun still on our minds, seeing it set at another Bahraini icon—located far into the arid desert, amidst vast nothingness—seemed appropriate. Many believe that there is no better way to end your Bahrain sojourn than by placing your hands on the gnarly trunk of a 400 years old mesquite tree standing stoically alone in the desert. Called the Tree of Life—or Shajarat Al Hayat as it is fondly named by the locals, it is Bahrain’s answer to the clichéd coin toss at Rome’s Trevi Fountain. Only this one won’t cost you a dime to ensure your return to the stunning island nation. Just a good old rub of its trunk at sunset and your revisit to Bahrain is almost guaranteed.
Now that’s one wish I sincerely hope comes true!

 Pics courtesy: At Bahrain and BTEA

FACT FILE
Getting There
There are a number of daily direct flights from Mumbai to Bahrain’s capital Manama on airlines like Air India, Jet Airways and Gulf Air. Travel within Bahrain is very easy, given its small size and most places in the country are under an hour away from each other. Bahrain’s super-efficient buses, taxis and boats make travelling within the archipelago a treat! Indian passport holders need an e-visa to enter Bahrain which is very easy to procure.

When To Visit
With Bahrain enjoying a pleasant climate during the winter months and brutally hot, humid summers, the best months to travel are from November to early March when there is a gentle nip in the air and sunny skies!

Accommodation
Bahrain has an excellent selection of hotels to choose from to suit all budgets and tastes. Some of the best value-for-money options are:

·         The Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain (www.ritzcarlton.com)

·         Hotel Sofitel Bahrain Zallaq Thalassa Sea & Spa (www.sofitel.com)

·         ART Rotana Hotel & Resort (www.rotana.com)

·         Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay (www.fourseasons.com)

For More Information Visit
www.btea.bh, www.at-bahrain.com 

(A shorter, edited version of this article appeared in the 19th August 2017 issue of the Afternoon Despatch & Courier newspaper, India http://www.afternoondc.in/mumbai-mix/where-past-and-present-meet/article_202485)