An almost tropical archipelago slap bang in the middle
of the Persian Gulf, Bahrain shatters every single Middle East cliché.
So, ignore the searing heat and plunge yourselves into the vast depths of
culture, history and unrivalled beauty that this ‘Pearl of the Gulf’ has on
offer, says Raul
Dias
It’s late July and I’m in hot, hot, hottest Bahrain on
a trip, that I’d been warned, will have me, to quote a friend “cooked all through
with a crispy skin!” With images of a glistening roast chicken swimming in my
mind, I step outside the cool confines of my plush hotel. All at once a searing
blast of torrid, humid air sucker-punches me in the solar plexus. It’s not hot,
it’s SEARING and barely 10 feet into my walk to the parked mini bus, I’m all
but drenched in sweat.
But then I guess that’s the price you pay when you’re a die-hard traveller like me for whom dispelling myths is a joy like no other. And Bahrain is one helluva cliché buster. Think the ‘Middle East’ and think deserts, camels, vast barren lands, right? How about lush palm trees, white-sanded tropical islands and cerulean-hued coral reefs that team with myriad sea life? Yes, the 33 natural islands archipelago that is Bahrain is a curious mix of all the above descriptors and so much more…
But then I guess that’s the price you pay when you’re a die-hard traveller like me for whom dispelling myths is a joy like no other. And Bahrain is one helluva cliché buster. Think the ‘Middle East’ and think deserts, camels, vast barren lands, right? How about lush palm trees, white-sanded tropical islands and cerulean-hued coral reefs that team with myriad sea life? Yes, the 33 natural islands archipelago that is Bahrain is a curious mix of all the above descriptors and so much more…
Home to the ancient Dilmun civilisation that thrived 5,000 years ago—which believed that the secret to eternal life lay in the sea surrounding Bahrain—it is no surprise then that the nation gets its name from this myth. Apparently, the sea had certain pockets of sweet water that gushed up from underground streams and mingled with the salty water. It is this mélange—that formed two seas—to which modern Bahrain owes its name: bahr which means sea in Arabic and ‘thnain which is two.
Of Marvels—Both Ancient and Modern!
Speaking of the sea, one of the first things on my agenda is a drive up the famous King Fahd Causeway. As one of the world’s longest bridges between two countries at 25 kms, this modern architectural marvel—completed in 1986 at the cost of $1 billion—links Bahrain with Saudi Arabia and is a breathtaking sight. Although our bus couldn’t actually cross over onto the Saudi Arabia span of the bridge, we were satisfied with a sneak peek at the rather menacing-looking border security guards on the other side.
Back on mainland Bahrain, it’s capital Manama was where we were headed next to pay obeisance to one of the island nation’s most iconic landmarks. More commonly known as the Bahrain Fort, Qal’at Al Bahrain offers a great panoramic view of both the seashore and of the capital Manama’s startlingly modern skyline. Designated as a World Heritage site in 2005, the fort comprises four elements—the moat, an ancient sea tower, a sea channel and palm grove— and is a masterpiece of the Portuguese occupation of Bahrain in the 16th century. Interestingly, excavations at the moat are proof that there has been an unbroken occupation of the site over a 4,500-year period right from the time Bahrain was the capital of the Dilmun civilisation.
Blasts
from the Past
The picturesque coastal village of Al Jasra is situated on the western coast of the country and is famous for the superbly preserved Al Jasra House. Made of coral stone and palm tree trunks, the house was built in 1907 and was the birthplace in 1933 of the former Emir (king) of Bahrain, Sheikh Isa bin Sulman Al Khalifa. The house today is maintained as a museum with everything from the old kitchen utensils to the majlis (men’s lounge) on display for visitors to get an idea of traditional Bahraini living. Al Jasra House also offers a fascinating glimpse into a not-so-distant past when wind towers (ingenious cooling systems predating air conditioning) called barjeels in Arabic dominated the Bahraini skyline.
Another reminder of Bahrain’s past, but this time as a trading stronghold is the Bab Al Bahrain at the mouth of the Manama Souq (market). Quite literally meaning ‘Gateway to Bahrain’, this gate-like structure was originally at the water’s edge when first constructed in 1945. But today, due to extensive reclamation of the sea, it is now bordered by skyscraper-infested reclaimed land and a gurgling fountain in front of it.
Undable to resist the lure of typically Bahraini spices like the zesty za’ataar, the tangy sumac and Bahrain’s favourite flavouring agent—saffron, we made our way through the souq’s meandering alleyways. And it was here that we sat down for a local meal at a small restaurant that served us a yummy lunch of the roast lamb and rice dish of qouzi with sides of hummus and the eggplant-redolent moutabel—all washed down with a glass of the sunshine-hued saffron sherbet.
The picturesque coastal village of Al Jasra is situated on the western coast of the country and is famous for the superbly preserved Al Jasra House. Made of coral stone and palm tree trunks, the house was built in 1907 and was the birthplace in 1933 of the former Emir (king) of Bahrain, Sheikh Isa bin Sulman Al Khalifa. The house today is maintained as a museum with everything from the old kitchen utensils to the majlis (men’s lounge) on display for visitors to get an idea of traditional Bahraini living. Al Jasra House also offers a fascinating glimpse into a not-so-distant past when wind towers (ingenious cooling systems predating air conditioning) called barjeels in Arabic dominated the Bahraini skyline.
Another reminder of Bahrain’s past, but this time as a trading stronghold is the Bab Al Bahrain at the mouth of the Manama Souq (market). Quite literally meaning ‘Gateway to Bahrain’, this gate-like structure was originally at the water’s edge when first constructed in 1945. But today, due to extensive reclamation of the sea, it is now bordered by skyscraper-infested reclaimed land and a gurgling fountain in front of it.
Undable to resist the lure of typically Bahraini spices like the zesty za’ataar, the tangy sumac and Bahrain’s favourite flavouring agent—saffron, we made our way through the souq’s meandering alleyways. And it was here that we sat down for a local meal at a small restaurant that served us a yummy lunch of the roast lamb and rice dish of qouzi with sides of hummus and the eggplant-redolent moutabel—all washed down with a glass of the sunshine-hued saffron sherbet.
Return
Guaranteed?
With the brilliance of the sun still on our minds, seeing it set at another Bahraini icon—located far into the arid desert, amidst vast nothingness—seemed appropriate. Many believe that there is no better way to end your Bahrain sojourn than by placing your hands on the gnarly trunk of a 400 years old mesquite tree standing stoically alone in the desert. Called the Tree of Life—or Shajarat Al Hayat as it is fondly named by the locals, it is Bahrain’s answer to the clichéd coin toss at Rome’s Trevi Fountain. Only this one won’t cost you a dime to ensure your return to the stunning island nation. Just a good old rub of its trunk at sunset and your revisit to Bahrain is almost guaranteed.
Now that’s one wish I sincerely hope comes true!
With the brilliance of the sun still on our minds, seeing it set at another Bahraini icon—located far into the arid desert, amidst vast nothingness—seemed appropriate. Many believe that there is no better way to end your Bahrain sojourn than by placing your hands on the gnarly trunk of a 400 years old mesquite tree standing stoically alone in the desert. Called the Tree of Life—or Shajarat Al Hayat as it is fondly named by the locals, it is Bahrain’s answer to the clichéd coin toss at Rome’s Trevi Fountain. Only this one won’t cost you a dime to ensure your return to the stunning island nation. Just a good old rub of its trunk at sunset and your revisit to Bahrain is almost guaranteed.
Now that’s one wish I sincerely hope comes true!
Pics courtesy: At Bahrain and BTEA
FACT
FILE
Getting There
There are a number of daily direct flights from Mumbai to Bahrain’s capital Manama on airlines like Air India, Jet Airways and Gulf Air. Travel within Bahrain is very easy, given its small size and most places in the country are under an hour away from each other. Bahrain’s super-efficient buses, taxis and boats make travelling within the archipelago a treat! Indian passport holders need an e-visa to enter Bahrain which is very easy to procure.
Getting There
There are a number of daily direct flights from Mumbai to Bahrain’s capital Manama on airlines like Air India, Jet Airways and Gulf Air. Travel within Bahrain is very easy, given its small size and most places in the country are under an hour away from each other. Bahrain’s super-efficient buses, taxis and boats make travelling within the archipelago a treat! Indian passport holders need an e-visa to enter Bahrain which is very easy to procure.
When
To Visit
With Bahrain enjoying a pleasant climate during the winter months and brutally hot, humid summers, the best months to travel are from November to early March when there is a gentle nip in the air and sunny skies!
With Bahrain enjoying a pleasant climate during the winter months and brutally hot, humid summers, the best months to travel are from November to early March when there is a gentle nip in the air and sunny skies!
Accommodation
Bahrain has an excellent selection of hotels to choose from to suit all budgets and tastes. Some of the best value-for-money options are:
Bahrain has an excellent selection of hotels to choose from to suit all budgets and tastes. Some of the best value-for-money options are:
(A shorter, edited version of this article appeared in the 19th August 2017 issue of the Afternoon Despatch & Courier newspaper, India http://www.afternoondc.in/mumbai-mix/where-past-and-present-meet/article_202485)
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