Showing posts with label ETHIOPIAN. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ETHIOPIAN. Show all posts

Sunday, June 25, 2017

A-N-A-T-O-M-I-Z-E: Messob Platter

By Raul Dias





I’ve always believed that Chennai is a great food city for the experimental diner and this fact has been proven to me time and again. And that super muggy April afternoon was no different, as I sat down to a traditional Ethiopian meal at Abyssinian, the eight-month old Ethiopian cuisine restaurant in Alwarpet.
Having eaten Ethiopian food—in Liverpool, UK of all places during my student days there—I had a fair understanding of what was in store for me and my rather clueless friends. Called a messob platter, the main meal is meant for four people. And this is had sitting down at a traditional low table and stool set, with all eating from the same large steel platter.
Onto this, a soft, spongy neer dosa meets appam-like bread called injera (which can be made from an indigenous Ethiopian grass called teff, rice and in our case ragi or finger millet) is first placed as a lining (and more rolls on the side) onto which each diner gets their own daub of yummy dishes.
And thus began a procession of delectable offerings like yebeg bozena shiro, a delicious mutton and chickpea powder-based dish, slow-cooked with Ethiopia’s popular — and spicy — red berbere sauce. Mesir wot, a divine (and beautifully coloured) combination of split red lentils simmered in spicy berbere sauce was next.
 The simple, yet flavourful fasolia followed, which is dish of string beans, sautéed with carrots and caramelised onions.
The main ‘star’ of course, was Ethiopia’s national dish, doro wat—a thick chicken stew with boiled eggs, a sweet onion base and loads of berbere. Not to be left behind was the doro tibs a very light, fragrant chicken preparation seasoned with rosemary. Balancing all the meat-y excesses was shiro (chickpea stew), dinich wot (curried potatoes) and finally yatakilt wot made up of curried vegetables.
We ended this almost-three-hours-long meal with a splash of traditional, strong Ethiopian coffee into which one can add sugar or salt and Ethiopia’s version of ghee called niter. Accompanying this was the de rigueur bowl of popcorn that no post-prandial coffee drinking session in Ethiopia can ever be complete without!


(This column first appeared in the 25th June 2017 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 8 http://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/food/messob-platter/article19132504.ece)

Saturday, April 8, 2017

Out of Africa!

The Mesob Platter at Abyssinian, Chennai


By Raul Dias

There’s no doubting the fact that India has, for the last couple of years, been ensnared in the vice-like grip of a raging culinary vortex that’s spewing out every conceivable cuisine trend that, we the diner, are only too happy to lap up (pun intended!). Never mind how outré or over the top they may be. Today, we may know our Peruvian ceviches from our Hawaiian pokés and our Korean gimbaps from the now de rigueur Japanese gunkan makis.
But recently, there has been a whole new breed of restaurants cropping up around the country. Each representing a few hitherto unknown cuisines of Africa. Each hoping to break the Italian-Chinese-Japanese cuisine ‘hegemony’. And each making it their mission to make sure we acquaint ourselves with exotic eats like fluffy injeras from Ethiopia, jellofs from Nigeria and boerewors from South Africa, among others. 
And while there have been (failed) introductory attempts made in the past with places like Ubuntu in Mumbai serving South African food, the recently shuttered Manny’s Square in Delhi doing its bit for Nigerian cuisine and even a short-lived Afro-Caribbean restaurant called Sue’s Kitchen in Bengaluru, the following are bold new places that are making valiant inroads onto the experimental Indian diner’s tabletop, straight out of Africa…

Abyssinian
ABYSSINIAN
Offering up a mindbogglingly large menu of Ethiopian delicacies from the teff-flour made bread called injera to the national dish of chicken doro wat spiced with the traditional berbere spice mix and a carom seed and olive oil cake called nech azmud, this six-month old Chennai restaurant in Alwarpet, has almost everything—including the low-slung furniture and ingredients—brought in from Ethiopia.
Exotic appeal: The steak tartare-like raw tenderloin kitfo seasoned with the Ethiopian version of ghee called niter, the feta-like crumbly mitmita cheese and cardamom.

GREEN ONION
While prima facie there may nothing remotely Nigerian to the look and feel of this Marine Lines, Mumbai restaurant, a glance at the menu will throw up myriad surprises in the form of the tomato-y jellof rice with a huge hunk of deep-fried chicken, served with fried plantain slices as accompaniments and the funky smelling, dried fish redolent goat onugbo curry, best mopped up with balls fashioned out of the log-shaped semovita fufu that’s flecked with pieces of okra.
Exotic appeal: Chicken egusi soup with bitter leaf, that’s thickened using melon seeds.

FEZ
Straight out of a 1001 Arabian Nights in its décor and like its name alludes, this Moroccan and North African restaurant in New Delhi’s Chanaykapuri area is a repository for all things North African from its lamb tajine jazzed up with preserved lemons to its Tunisian stew served with cous cous.
Exotic appeal: The tajeh al-kamroon harissa-marinated prawns that are charcoal grilled and served with a walnut sauce.

GALITO’S
For the last few years this QSR in Bengaluru’s Whitefield has been giving patrons a taste of South Africa and its neighbour Mozambique with is very popular peri-peri chicken, the kebab-like Afrikaner sosaties and the heart-y mealie pap soup that’s made with corn meal and flavoured with tomato and basil.
Exotic appeal: Chicken boerewors sausages served with the tangy bean-rich chakalaka sauce. 


BLUE NILE
Run by the cultural wing of the Ethiopian Embassy in Chanaykapuri, New Delhi, eating out at this über-authentic Ethiopian restaurant cum café is both educational and palate-pleasing. The staff are on hand to guide you through the nuances of this North-East African cuisine that has its flagbearers the fluffy injera bread made from rice, teff or corn, the black lentil rich defen mesir and the begg tibs which is sliced lamb fried with onion garlic and fresh chilli.   
Exotic appeal: A potent shot of salty, muddy Ethiopian coffee into which a few drops of niter (Ethiopian clarified butter) are added and served alongside popcorn.

(A shorter, differently edited version of this piece was first published in the 17th April, 2017 issue of India Today magazine)