My name is Khan-e-Khalili

Bursting to its seams with all things exotic, Cairo’s gargantuan Khan-e-Khalili market showed Raul Dias a side of Egypt that isn’t all about mummies and pharaohs… well almost!

I simply couldn’t believe it! For the first time in all my ‘great-sense-of-direction-enhanced’ life did my internal GPS let me down. I had been trying to locate Cairo’s famed Khan-e-Khalili souk (market) rather unsuccessfully for the last four days and was almost ready to give up after umpteen number of wrong directions by helpful, yet linguistically challenged Cairenes. As much as the denizens of this amazing city by the Nile are proud of their great market it is quite an effort to get there especially if like me you attempt to get there on foot from downtown Cairo constantly being told “next left, meester!” 
So this time, firmly ensconced in the cool confines of a taxi I made my way towards the Mecca of all things exotic with the ferocity of a man on a mission. And finally there it was, emerging from the miasma of dust like a mirage for the unabashed shopaholic.
No visit to Cairo is complete without a ramble down to the legendary Khan-e-Khalili souk which is overflowing with some priceless bargains and yes, some touristy tat as well! Here you can stock up on some nose-tingling Arabian spices and fragrant oils while your eyes feast on the riot of colours that erupt in the shops selling traditional Egyptian outfits and top hats called tarboushes. 
Feeling a tad lost without my trusted shopping list, I let serendipity take me for a ride down the alleys of this market that assaults your every sense. My debut purchase du jour literally called out to me from its dusty home, lying below a pile of wooden bits and bobs in a rundown little kiosk in the corner of a lane. It was a simple replica of a pharaonic death mask painted in the most vivid shades of blue, silver and black. Although nowhere close to ancient, the mask had a character to it that appealed to me. After the customary (and expected!) bargaining ritual, I handed over a soiled 100 Egyptian Pound (Rs 800 approx.) note to the stall owner and headed towards the papyrus painting shop that came thoroughly recommended by my hotel manager. After a good 15 minute ramble, stopping en route to pick up a dozen mummy shaped fridge magnate for 30 EGP (Rs 240 approx.), I located the said shop and was immediately bowled over by the wonders of papyrus painting. Right from pastoral prints depicting ancient agrarian Egyptian life along the fertile banks of the Nile to scenes of mummification and funerary grandeur, there were a plethora of originals paintings to choose from and at a great price (after 10  minutes haggling) of 70 EGP (Rs 560 approx.) each. Snapping up a series of five for my sister’s new living room and another three for my bedroom, I made my way towards the fulfillment of a promise.
Being an avid Egyptophile, nothing makes my friend (let’s call her GS) happier than kitting herself out in all things Egyptian. Right from the flowing kaftans to even a mannish tarboushe, she wears them all with élan. The only thing missing according to her were a “nice expensive pair of scarab beetle-shaped silver earrings”. So off I was towards the jewellery section of the souk in the eastern section, eyes trained to scope out anything remotely scarabish. It’s not like there weren’t close contenders, but I just couldn’t find that extra special pair that had GS’ quirky personality stamped all over it. Almost ready to give up, I sauntered into a shop that looked as though it was patronized by fashionable Cleopatra herself. Old, dusty and musty are three words that best sum up the shop that was helmed by an equally ancient looking man. And yes, he had just what I was looking for. For a round figure of 300 EGP (Rs 2,400 approx.) not only did I snap up the silver earrings, but also a matching bracelet with scarabs positioned back to back.
A green hand-blown glass lamp with a matching pair of glass candlesticks for my study was my last purchases for 150 EGP (Rs 1,200 approx.). And I say last purchase not because I had had enough of this charming market, factors like depleting financial resources and excess baggage had begun to swim in my mind like annoying piranhas in the placid Nile.
A visit to the Khan-e-Khalili market comes with a warning. Be prepared for all your senses to be taken on a shopping sojourn of a lifetime, where the exotic intermingles with the ancient in a dazzling dance… but please don’t forget to take proper directions to the place!

Lamps aplenty: Light up your life!

(First published in the May issue of The Address-The Times Of India)