By Raul Dias
Embarrassment is writ large upon my face as I attempt, rather unsuccessfully, to prise open the tiny ‘plastic’ packet of nuts that’s daintily sitting on a plate in front of me. It’s only when a server suggests I pop the whole packet into my mouth—covering et al—do I finally realise the naughty little mind game molecular gastronomy is playing on me…
Taking the two very antipodal concepts of a French amuse bouche and chakna—the de facto Indian drinks’ accompaniment, and fusing them together in a decidedly delicate, transparent Japanese rice paper called obulato is Chef Tejas Sovani. As the very first course in his degustation menu at Amaranta, The Oberoi Gurgaon’s modern Indian fine dining restaurant, Sovani sends off the brilliantly realised and constructed plastic chakna with a flourish.
Named obulato in honour of oblaat, the Dutch word for “wafer”, these shiny sheets made from rice and potato starch are used to create beautiful garnishes, such as tuiles and in this case, edible sachets. Dissolving in the mouth almost instantly, it is this ephemeral quality that’s so very appealing!
Meant to be eaten in one bite with one’s fingers—with a daub of coriander-mint chutney—the dish is made up of hand-pounded roasted peanuts, crushed piquant wasabi peas and bits of soya crisps flavoured with spices and chaat masala, which are then ensconced in a single, almost plastic-like circular cut obulato sheet. With the help of a special heat sealing machine, the edges of the mini parcel are fused together to form a half moon shaped amuse bouche that’s full of flavour and texture!
(This column first appeared in the 16th April 2017 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 8 http://www.thehindu.com/entertainment/plastic-chakna/article18056489.ece)
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