India offers up a wide spectrum of biryani
varieties—each superbly referencing the nation’s rich culinary diversity with
their every fragrant grain and heady aroma—resulting in an array of specimens
that are in essence, very similar, yet paradoxically poles apart in myriad ways...
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| A serving of Kolkata biryani |
By Raul Dias
The perfect twinning of fragrant rice grains and
unctuous gravies of meat, fish, egg and vegetables, flecked with dried fruits
and nuts and anointed with a splash of saffron-infused milk, then decorated
with a halo of fried onions—all this, set to meld into each other, as the dish
steams on a slow, steady flame—a biryani truly is a wondrous thing. But it is pertinent
to note that this quintessential Indian culinary ‘chimera’ has its
underpinnings rather far away. In ancient Persia (today’s Iran) to be more
precise!
While theories of its genesis abound, with one laying claim to the fact that in the Persian language, rice is called “birinj”, others speculate that it originates from the aforementioned low and slow cooking method called “beriyan” in Persian, that bestows upon it it’s rather mellifluous name. But whatever be its culinary conjecture, India’s vast and eclectic posse of cuisine styles offers up a plethora of fragrant biryani varieties that do well to reference the different regions they come from, resulting in a smorgasbord that stretches from the subtle northern style iterations to the fiery, spicy versions that the south lays claim to.
While by no means is this an exhaustive list, we bring you a serving of a few such popular Indian biryanis that are each imbued with all the right ingredients to celebrate this ‘one pot dish’ the way it ought to be.
While theories of its genesis abound, with one laying claim to the fact that in the Persian language, rice is called “birinj”, others speculate that it originates from the aforementioned low and slow cooking method called “beriyan” in Persian, that bestows upon it it’s rather mellifluous name. But whatever be its culinary conjecture, India’s vast and eclectic posse of cuisine styles offers up a plethora of fragrant biryani varieties that do well to reference the different regions they come from, resulting in a smorgasbord that stretches from the subtle northern style iterations to the fiery, spicy versions that the south lays claim to.
While by no means is this an exhaustive list, we bring you a serving of a few such popular Indian biryanis that are each imbued with all the right ingredients to celebrate this ‘one pot dish’ the way it ought to be.
AWADHI
BIRYANI
Revered as the ‘King of Biryanis’ the Awadhi or Lucknowi biryani is a subtly spiced, highly nuanced dish with decidedly regal roots when it was first cooked in the kitchens of the Nawabs by the royal khansamas (cooks) using copious amounts of saffron and kewra (screw pine) extract, and decorated with gold leaf. Today, the Awadhi biryani specialists of Lucknow adhere to the pakki (cooked) method of biryani preparation wherein parboiled, lightly spiced basmati rice is layered in a degh (large pot) along with a cooked meat curry. The degh is then sealed with a flour paste and cooked over low heat—called dum—until the biryani is done. Though primarily a meat biryani, the vegetarian version is called tehri and is no less scrumptious.
Revered as the ‘King of Biryanis’ the Awadhi or Lucknowi biryani is a subtly spiced, highly nuanced dish with decidedly regal roots when it was first cooked in the kitchens of the Nawabs by the royal khansamas (cooks) using copious amounts of saffron and kewra (screw pine) extract, and decorated with gold leaf. Today, the Awadhi biryani specialists of Lucknow adhere to the pakki (cooked) method of biryani preparation wherein parboiled, lightly spiced basmati rice is layered in a degh (large pot) along with a cooked meat curry. The degh is then sealed with a flour paste and cooked over low heat—called dum—until the biryani is done. Though primarily a meat biryani, the vegetarian version is called tehri and is no less scrumptious.
Try It Here:
* Dum-Pukth at ITC Maurya, New Delhi (Rs. Rs. Rs.)
* Kava at Fairfield by Marriott, Lucknow (Rs. Rs.)
* Punjab Grill, Mumbai (Rs. Rs.)
* Idris ki Biryani, Lucknow (Rs.)
* Dum-Pukth at ITC Maurya, New Delhi (Rs. Rs. Rs.)
* Kava at Fairfield by Marriott, Lucknow (Rs. Rs.)
* Punjab Grill, Mumbai (Rs. Rs.)
* Idris ki Biryani, Lucknow (Rs.)
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HYDERABADI
BIRYANI
Packed with the punch of searing hot Andhra chilies, the Hyderabadi biryani is very different from the more delicate Awadhi biryani, in that both the rice and the meat are not pre-cooked. Instead, they assembled in their raw uncooked form and layered in a pot and that’s set to dum, thus paying homage to the kachchi (uncooked) school of biryani making. An interesting blend of the Mughlai and Iranian biryanis, the Hyderabadi iteration was once patronised by the erstwhile Nizam rulers of the city, and is today, the most popular and in-demand of all biryanis around India.
Packed with the punch of searing hot Andhra chilies, the Hyderabadi biryani is very different from the more delicate Awadhi biryani, in that both the rice and the meat are not pre-cooked. Instead, they assembled in their raw uncooked form and layered in a pot and that’s set to dum, thus paying homage to the kachchi (uncooked) school of biryani making. An interesting blend of the Mughlai and Iranian biryanis, the Hyderabadi iteration was once patronised by the erstwhile Nizam rulers of the city, and is today, the most popular and in-demand of all biryanis around India.
Try It Here:
* Adaa at Taj Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad (Rs. Rs. Rs.)
*The Golkonda Bowl, Mumbai (Rs. Rs.)
* Sarvi, Hyderabad (Rs. Rs.)
* Hyderabadi Biryani House, New Delhi (Rs. Rs.)
* Café Noorani, Mumbai (Rs. Rs.)
* Adaa at Taj Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad (Rs. Rs. Rs.)
*The Golkonda Bowl, Mumbai (Rs. Rs.)
* Sarvi, Hyderabad (Rs. Rs.)
* Hyderabadi Biryani House, New Delhi (Rs. Rs.)
* Café Noorani, Mumbai (Rs. Rs.)
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KOLKATA
BIRYANI
A rather curious mélange of different types of biryani preparations, but leaning more towards the Awadhi style of biryani, the Kolkata version is a moist, succulent preparation. Besides the usual thick gravy layered with the short grained, sticky Gobindobhog rice, there are always huge chunks of potato and whole boiled eggs—that are not found in any other biryanis around India—jutting out of the plate, making for yet another carb and protein (over)dose!
A rather curious mélange of different types of biryani preparations, but leaning more towards the Awadhi style of biryani, the Kolkata version is a moist, succulent preparation. Besides the usual thick gravy layered with the short grained, sticky Gobindobhog rice, there are always huge chunks of potato and whole boiled eggs—that are not found in any other biryanis around India—jutting out of the plate, making for yet another carb and protein (over)dose!
Try It Here:
* Sonargaon at Taj Bengal, Kolkata (Rs. Rs. Rs.)
* Kolkata Biryani House, New Delhi (Rs. Rs.)
* Arsalan, Kolkata (Rs. Rs.)
* Kolkata Konnection, Mumbai (Rs.)
* Shiraz Golden Restaurant, Kolkata (Rs.)
* Sonargaon at Taj Bengal, Kolkata (Rs. Rs. Rs.)
* Kolkata Biryani House, New Delhi (Rs. Rs.)
* Arsalan, Kolkata (Rs. Rs.)
* Kolkata Konnection, Mumbai (Rs.)
* Shiraz Golden Restaurant, Kolkata (Rs.)
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DINDIGUL
BIRYANI
Essentially a brownish hued biryani made with chicken, the Dindigul biryani that originated from the town of Dindigul in Tamil Nadu is also more commonly referred as the Thalappakatti style of biryani thanks to the restaurant chain of the same name that has been the pioneer of this edible art form since 1957 with branches all over the state today. Eschewing the northern India-preferred basmati rice, the super spicy Dindigul biryani—that’s more like a meat pulao in appearance—uses the shorter grained seeraga samba rice that is first marinated in spices along with the chicken and then cooked together in the kachchi style of biryani preparation.
Essentially a brownish hued biryani made with chicken, the Dindigul biryani that originated from the town of Dindigul in Tamil Nadu is also more commonly referred as the Thalappakatti style of biryani thanks to the restaurant chain of the same name that has been the pioneer of this edible art form since 1957 with branches all over the state today. Eschewing the northern India-preferred basmati rice, the super spicy Dindigul biryani—that’s more like a meat pulao in appearance—uses the shorter grained seeraga samba rice that is first marinated in spices along with the chicken and then cooked together in the kachchi style of biryani preparation.
Try It Here:
* Spice Haat at Hyatt Regency, Chennai (Rs. Rs. Rs.)
* Dindigul Venu Briyani, Coimbatore (Rs. Rs.)
* Dindigul Thalappakatti Restaurant, Chennai (Rs. Rs.)
* Amsavalli Bhavan, Madurai (Rs.)
* Spice Haat at Hyatt Regency, Chennai (Rs. Rs. Rs.)
* Dindigul Venu Briyani, Coimbatore (Rs. Rs.)
* Dindigul Thalappakatti Restaurant, Chennai (Rs. Rs.)
* Amsavalli Bhavan, Madurai (Rs.)
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BOHRI
BIRYANI
This spicy biryani is an edible vestige of the Dawoodi Bohra community of Pakistan that has made its way to India—and Mumbai in particular—post independence, when members of the community migrated here. They brought with them this delicious biryani that is less piquant than the Hyderabadi biryani and uses whole garam masala rather than powdered spices, more for the aroma than the resulting heat. Making it even more spicy is the green chilly-mint chutney that is part of its service along with the tomato-onion-cucumber kachumbar salad to temper it all down.
This spicy biryani is an edible vestige of the Dawoodi Bohra community of Pakistan that has made its way to India—and Mumbai in particular—post independence, when members of the community migrated here. They brought with them this delicious biryani that is less piquant than the Hyderabadi biryani and uses whole garam masala rather than powdered spices, more for the aroma than the resulting heat. Making it even more spicy is the green chilly-mint chutney that is part of its service along with the tomato-onion-cucumber kachumbar salad to temper it all down.
Try It Here:
* The Bohri Kitchen, Mumbai (Rs. Rs.)
* Bombay Biryani, Mumbai (Rs. Rs.)
* Paramount Restaurant, Mumbai (Rs.)
* Tazza, Mumbai (Rs.)
* The Bohri Kitchen, Mumbai (Rs. Rs.)
* Bombay Biryani, Mumbai (Rs. Rs.)
* Paramount Restaurant, Mumbai (Rs.)
* Tazza, Mumbai (Rs.)
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MALABAR
BIRYANI
The Mappila community of Kozhikode (earlier called Calicut) in Kerala has, to its credit, this very subtly-flavoured biryani that is known multifariously as the Calicut biryani and the Moplah biryani as well. With very close similarities—perhaps due to Kerala’s Arab spice trade connection—to the Arabic kabsah meat and rice preparation, also called mandi in Yemen, the Malabar biryani can be made both in the pakki and kachchi style with either meat or seafood and cooked over burning coconut husks that impart a smoky flavour to the biryani. A Kerala-style papadam, biriyani chammandi made with coconut, vinegar and chilly along with a pickle made from Arabian dates called karakka are its traditional accompaniments.
The Mappila community of Kozhikode (earlier called Calicut) in Kerala has, to its credit, this very subtly-flavoured biryani that is known multifariously as the Calicut biryani and the Moplah biryani as well. With very close similarities—perhaps due to Kerala’s Arab spice trade connection—to the Arabic kabsah meat and rice preparation, also called mandi in Yemen, the Malabar biryani can be made both in the pakki and kachchi style with either meat or seafood and cooked over burning coconut husks that impart a smoky flavour to the biryani. A Kerala-style papadam, biriyani chammandi made with coconut, vinegar and chilly along with a pickle made from Arabian dates called karakka are its traditional accompaniments.
Try It Here:
* Gad at The Gateway Hotel Beach Road, Kozhikode (Rs. Rs. Rs.)
* Bombay Restaurant, Kozhikode (Rs. Rs.)
* Paragon, Kozhikode (Rs.)
* Malabar Biriyani House, Ernakulam (Rs.)
* Gad at The Gateway Hotel Beach Road, Kozhikode (Rs. Rs. Rs.)
* Bombay Restaurant, Kozhikode (Rs. Rs.)
* Paragon, Kozhikode (Rs.)
* Malabar Biriyani House, Ernakulam (Rs.)
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Price Guide
Rs.= Below Rs 150
Rs. Rs.=Rs. 150-500
Rs. Rs. Rs.=Upwards of Rs. 500
Rs.= Below Rs 150
Rs. Rs.=Rs. 150-500
Rs. Rs. Rs.=Upwards of Rs. 500
Perfect
Plate Fellows!
The experience of partaking in the wonder that is a biryani is woefully incomplete without these essential accompaniments:
The experience of partaking in the wonder that is a biryani is woefully incomplete without these essential accompaniments:
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RAITA
Be it a de rigueur boondi (deep-fried gram flour globules) raita or a tomato-onion-coriander redolent one, this yogurt-based coolant is the perfect foil to a robustly spiced biryani.
Be it a de rigueur boondi (deep-fried gram flour globules) raita or a tomato-onion-coriander redolent one, this yogurt-based coolant is the perfect foil to a robustly spiced biryani.
·
DAHI CHUTNEY
Similar to a raita, but drier in consistency, this combination of hung curd, mint and onion is what no self-respecting Hyderabadi biryani will be accompanied without.
Similar to a raita, but drier in consistency, this combination of hung curd, mint and onion is what no self-respecting Hyderabadi biryani will be accompanied without.
·
MIRCHI KA SALAN
A thin soup-like gravy made with green chillies and pureed tomatoes, a salan also completes the Hyderabadi biryani dining experience.
A thin soup-like gravy made with green chillies and pureed tomatoes, a salan also completes the Hyderabadi biryani dining experience.
·
BRINJAL DALCHA
Most south Indian biryanis, particularly the Dindigul biryani is accompanied by this tangy gravy made with roasted brinjal (eggplant) and tamarind extract.
Most south Indian biryanis, particularly the Dindigul biryani is accompanied by this tangy gravy made with roasted brinjal (eggplant) and tamarind extract.
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the April 2017 issue of Jetwings Internationl in-flight magazine of Jet Airways http://www.jetairways.com/EN/IN/jetexperience/magazines.aspx)
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