While Kerala may be more well-known for its stunning
coastline and placid backwaters, its hill stations like the sublime Thekkady
in the heart of the state’s spice country show us a different side. Raul Dias
recently checked in at the Niraamaya Retreats Cardamom Club, Thekkady for a
weekend of pure, unadulterated hill bliss!
Pics courtesy: Niraamaya Retreats Cardamom Club,
Thekkady
Did you know that nutmeg and mace are actually part of
the same spice fruit, wherein the former is a seed wrapped by the latter in a
fragrant reddish pink membrane web? Or that, what we, in India call ‘cinnamon’,
is in reality cassia bark—a species of tree similar, yet very different to the
actual cinnamon tree? Well, I for one, didn’t. Nuggets of information like
this—pertaining mainly to the world of spice—peppered (pun intended!) my
journey as I was being driven by Tommy my very well-informed driver from
Madurai airport to the lush, fecund hill station of Thekkady that’s located
slap bang in the middle of Kerala’s spice country, very close to the Tamil Nadu
border in Kumily.
Plush Digs!
My destination was the newly refurbished resort, the Niraamaya Retreats Cardamom Club, Thekkady that gets its name from the multitude of cardamom trees that surround this very well-appointed 12-cottage haven. Complementing the existing plantation-style cottages, the newly added wooden cabin-like rooms are built on stilts to maximise the majestic mountain views. The rooms have cleverly positioned floor-to-ceiling windows, so guests like I could wake up to stunning views of nature. The interiors, a play of muted tones with pops of colour feature minimal decoration and vibrant art. All rooms have air-conditioning, a feature exclusive to only few properties in the region as I was soon to learn from the very affable Sreejith, the resort’s manager; and amenities such as a minibar, Wi-Fi, and luxurious bath amenities.
Set amidst verdant forest canopy, the resort’s new 15-meter infinity pool overlooks the valley and the misty mountains beyond. The terraced decks from the all-day dining restaurant, Café Samsara leading to the pool offer the perfect perch for an early morning yoga session or for guests to enjoy the expansive views of the forest. In the evening, the deck elegantly transforms into an outdoor space that draws pre- and post-dinner guests to savour the pure mountain air.
Relaxation Guaranteed
The new Niraamaya Spa, built on stilts and made from Bangkirai wood from sustainable plantations in Indonesia is the perfect combination of functionality and elegance. The design is simple and minimalistic, pavilion-style with a sense of openness to highlight the stunning tropical landscape. Spread across 1,200 sq. ft., the spa features a lobby and fully-equipped Ayurveda and international therapy rooms with private outdoor sit-outs. The interiors follow a warm palette complementing the green backdrop.
But what my body needed most of all that evening after a three-hour’s long drive as a spot of pampering. And that was taken care of by Matthew, the spa’s Ayurvedic massage therapist with a superb hour-long traditional abhyanga massage which put me in a deep sleep.
Awake, but still in relaxation mode, and suddenly ravenous, a comforting plate of Kerala-style lamb stew made with coconut milk and accompanied by fluffy, bowl-shaped appams with crispy edges was what I wolfed down at the very elegantly appointed Café Samsara. A traditional coconut and jaggery payasam for afters and I was done. Ready to hit the soft pillows and ready to take on what the next day had in store for me.
Of Spices and More…
Located at the foot of the hill, atop which the resort is perched, is the wonderful, arboreal Green Land Spice Garden. Where, for as little as Rs 100 per person, you can partake in an hour-long guided spice lesson. So, that was where I found myself the next afternoon—after a late sleep in and a hearty brunch at Niraamaya—being educated in all things ‘spicy’ by Tigin a very knowledgeable local guy who took me through everything that is grown in the spice garden. From the de rigueur cardamom and clove trees to the more exotic passion fruit and avocado, I was given a crash course in how they are grown, harvested and then packaged. Speaking of which, at the attached spice shop, I tanked up on all my favourites to take back home like mace, cinnamon quills and the fragrant allspice.
Having been booked in for a double performance of Kathakali and Kalaripayattu (both for Rs 200 each, per person) in the early evening, I made my way to the super clean and neat little town of Kumily which is where both the arenas are located in the same compound. The Navarasa Kathakali Centre for a Kathakali performance was first on the list. A mere shed of a place, the center encourages guests to come in a little earlier before the scheduled performance so that they catch the performers apply their very elaborate make-up and dress in their costumes before the show commences and also learn a bit about this ancient art form.
Now, for the uninitiated like myself, Kathakali is a combination of two Malayalam words, “katha” which means story and “kali” which means play and is a derivative of one of the oldest classical dance forms of Kerala known as Ramanattam, which was earlier only conducted in royal palaces. And as I was to see, the performance was a story (taken mainly from Hindu mythology and puranas) acted out with the aid of mime, hand and eye gestures, drama and music by two men, one of whom was dressed as a woman, as women performers are generally not part of the repertoire.
An hour later, it was time to walk a mere 10 feet up to the Kalaripayattu performance staging area of the Kadathanadan Kalari Centre which was a dug-out space much like a swimming pool, with spectator seats on all four sides of the upper floor. Seemingly dance-like in the performers’ movements, Kalaripayattu is one of India’s oldest martial arts at over 3,000-years-old and can be traced back to the sage Parasurama who is believed to be the father of this martial art. Ending in a spectacular fire-hoop-jumping display, the performance had me spell bound.
But then, so had almost everything I had seen, heard, ate, smelled and experienced in this alternate, parallel dimension of God’s Own Country—Kerala!
Located at the foot of the hill, atop which the resort is perched, is the wonderful, arboreal Green Land Spice Garden. Where, for as little as Rs 100 per person, you can partake in an hour-long guided spice lesson. So, that was where I found myself the next afternoon—after a late sleep in and a hearty brunch at Niraamaya—being educated in all things ‘spicy’ by Tigin a very knowledgeable local guy who took me through everything that is grown in the spice garden. From the de rigueur cardamom and clove trees to the more exotic passion fruit and avocado, I was given a crash course in how they are grown, harvested and then packaged. Speaking of which, at the attached spice shop, I tanked up on all my favourites to take back home like mace, cinnamon quills and the fragrant allspice.
Having been booked in for a double performance of Kathakali and Kalaripayattu (both for Rs 200 each, per person) in the early evening, I made my way to the super clean and neat little town of Kumily which is where both the arenas are located in the same compound. The Navarasa Kathakali Centre for a Kathakali performance was first on the list. A mere shed of a place, the center encourages guests to come in a little earlier before the scheduled performance so that they catch the performers apply their very elaborate make-up and dress in their costumes before the show commences and also learn a bit about this ancient art form.
Now, for the uninitiated like myself, Kathakali is a combination of two Malayalam words, “katha” which means story and “kali” which means play and is a derivative of one of the oldest classical dance forms of Kerala known as Ramanattam, which was earlier only conducted in royal palaces. And as I was to see, the performance was a story (taken mainly from Hindu mythology and puranas) acted out with the aid of mime, hand and eye gestures, drama and music by two men, one of whom was dressed as a woman, as women performers are generally not part of the repertoire.
An hour later, it was time to walk a mere 10 feet up to the Kalaripayattu performance staging area of the Kadathanadan Kalari Centre which was a dug-out space much like a swimming pool, with spectator seats on all four sides of the upper floor. Seemingly dance-like in the performers’ movements, Kalaripayattu is one of India’s oldest martial arts at over 3,000-years-old and can be traced back to the sage Parasurama who is believed to be the father of this martial art. Ending in a spectacular fire-hoop-jumping display, the performance had me spell bound.
But then, so had almost everything I had seen, heard, ate, smelled and experienced in this alternate, parallel dimension of God’s Own Country—Kerala!
FACT
FILE
Getting
There
The idyllic hill station of Thekkady where Niraamaya Retreats Cardamom Club, Thekkady is situated in, is a scenic three hours’ drive from Madurai and a five hours’ drive from Kochi which many avoid due to the long winding, nausea-inducing ride up the mountainous roads! Both Madurai and Kochi have daily direct flights to and from Mumbai and most other major Indian cities.
The idyllic hill station of Thekkady where Niraamaya Retreats Cardamom Club, Thekkady is situated in, is a scenic three hours’ drive from Madurai and a five hours’ drive from Kochi which many avoid due to the long winding, nausea-inducing ride up the mountainous roads! Both Madurai and Kochi have daily direct flights to and from Mumbai and most other major Indian cities.
For
More Information Contact
Niraamaya Retreats Cardamom Club, Thekkady
66th Mile, V&V Estates, Springvalley,
Thekkady, Kumily, Kerala - 685509
Tel: +91 80 4510 4510
E-mail: reservations@niraamaya.in
www.niraamaya.in
www.periyartourism.org
greenlandspice@gmail.com
kadathanadankalari@gmail.com
Niraamaya Retreats Cardamom Club, Thekkady
66th Mile, V&V Estates, Springvalley,
Thekkady, Kumily, Kerala - 685509
Tel: +91 80 4510 4510
E-mail: reservations@niraamaya.in
www.niraamaya.in
www.periyartourism.org
greenlandspice@gmail.com
kadathanadankalari@gmail.com
(A shorter, edited version of this article appeared in the 22nd April 2017 issue of the Afternoon Despatch & Courier newspaper, India http://www.afternoondc.in/mumbai-mix/the-hills-are-alive/article_193208)
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