Almost literally a hop, skip and a jump away from the city
of Adelaide, the flora- and fauna-rich Kangaroo Island is South Australia’s
best kept little secret, offering a range of things to see and do.
By Raul Dias
Honest confession: I don’t do very well ensconced in
the confines of a tiny plane. It’s just something about being cooped up like
sardines in a tin can that gets to me. Sadly, at just under half an hour,
that’s the fastest—and most logical way—to get to the stunning Kangaroo Island
from Adelaide. What with the sea journey between the Cape Jervis Port (two
hours south of Adelaide) and the Penneshaw Port on Kangaroo Island raking up a
good four hours in total, along with driving time to and from the two ports.
Suspended from the mainland of South Australia like a dusty ruby, thanks to its red mud, the island always held great sway to a traveller like myself who had only read about it in other travel tales, thus far. And so, braving the short flight aboard the tiny Regional Express plane, I soldiered on as the twin-propeller aircraft swooped its way down towards terra firma…
With 541 km of coastline and 155 km long by 55 km wide, Kangaroo Island is Australia’s third largest island, but the minuscule size of its one and only airport at Kingscote, the island’s capital town, belies this distinction. Waiting for my group of three friends and I outside the small terminal building was our guide for the next two days Nikki Redman with her jazzed up mini bus, ready to show us the island where she’s spent all her life and which she loves with a fierce passion.
Suspended from the mainland of South Australia like a dusty ruby, thanks to its red mud, the island always held great sway to a traveller like myself who had only read about it in other travel tales, thus far. And so, braving the short flight aboard the tiny Regional Express plane, I soldiered on as the twin-propeller aircraft swooped its way down towards terra firma…
With 541 km of coastline and 155 km long by 55 km wide, Kangaroo Island is Australia’s third largest island, but the minuscule size of its one and only airport at Kingscote, the island’s capital town, belies this distinction. Waiting for my group of three friends and I outside the small terminal building was our guide for the next two days Nikki Redman with her jazzed up mini bus, ready to show us the island where she’s spent all her life and which she loves with a fierce passion.
All
‘Seal’ed Up!
Our first stop on the island was Seal Bay. Nestled along the island’s southern coast, Seal Bay is a playground for over 600 Australian sea-lions (neophoca cinerea) that seem to spend all day in the pursuit of their beauty sleep. Taking the weathered wooden pathway from the astonishingly well-equipped visitor’s centre down the white sanded beach, we made our way past clusters of plump mum and baby pairs of sea-lions in various stages of their seasonal moulting, some with soft tufts of new white fur, while others, like fashion-conscious ladies, still shedding their brownish-black ‘last season togs’. But the benign giants aren’t the only residents that call this fecund paradise home, we were lucky to get a glimpse of a group of elusive Hooded Plovers as well as some white-bellied Sea-Eagles taking flight. All I truly wanted to do there right then and there was to plonk myself on the beach and commune with nature at its purest, undiluted best. But that was sadly not to be.
Our first stop on the island was Seal Bay. Nestled along the island’s southern coast, Seal Bay is a playground for over 600 Australian sea-lions (neophoca cinerea) that seem to spend all day in the pursuit of their beauty sleep. Taking the weathered wooden pathway from the astonishingly well-equipped visitor’s centre down the white sanded beach, we made our way past clusters of plump mum and baby pairs of sea-lions in various stages of their seasonal moulting, some with soft tufts of new white fur, while others, like fashion-conscious ladies, still shedding their brownish-black ‘last season togs’. But the benign giants aren’t the only residents that call this fecund paradise home, we were lucky to get a glimpse of a group of elusive Hooded Plovers as well as some white-bellied Sea-Eagles taking flight. All I truly wanted to do there right then and there was to plonk myself on the beach and commune with nature at its purest, undiluted best. But that was sadly not to be.
Nature’s
Grotto
Lured away with the threat of abandonment, we reluctantly headed back to the bus, so that we could savour more of Kangaroo Island’s bounty. Looming in the horizon like an erect beacon of hope, the Cape du Couedic Lighthouse is like a sentinel guarding the eerie, almost subterranean grotto of Admirals Arch. A truly fascinating wild sculpture of nature, formed by an old coastal dune being cemented together, then eroded, Admirals Arch is a place where time comes to a grinding halt. A place where one’s reverie is punctured time and again by the bellowing of the New Zealand seals that bask on the jagged rocks that jut out angrily into the sea as though proving a point. Taking the boardwalk that runs around the cliff face down into the bowels of the spectacular natural grotto, we got to the viewing platform that made for a perfect photo-op with the brutal waves doing their very own number down below. The howling wind caressed us into submission as the pungent odour of seal excrement hit our nostrils, signalling that our time was up in the cave that was beginning to look like the devil’s living room of my nightmares.
Lured away with the threat of abandonment, we reluctantly headed back to the bus, so that we could savour more of Kangaroo Island’s bounty. Looming in the horizon like an erect beacon of hope, the Cape du Couedic Lighthouse is like a sentinel guarding the eerie, almost subterranean grotto of Admirals Arch. A truly fascinating wild sculpture of nature, formed by an old coastal dune being cemented together, then eroded, Admirals Arch is a place where time comes to a grinding halt. A place where one’s reverie is punctured time and again by the bellowing of the New Zealand seals that bask on the jagged rocks that jut out angrily into the sea as though proving a point. Taking the boardwalk that runs around the cliff face down into the bowels of the spectacular natural grotto, we got to the viewing platform that made for a perfect photo-op with the brutal waves doing their very own number down below. The howling wind caressed us into submission as the pungent odour of seal excrement hit our nostrils, signalling that our time was up in the cave that was beginning to look like the devil’s living room of my nightmares.
Meeting
the Namesakes
Leaving my nightmares where they belonged, at the bottom of Admirals Arch, something (or rather someone) more soothing and docile beckoned. One of the things on my ‘To Do’ list when I first decided to take a trip to the land down under was just about to be struck off – tea with kangaroos for whom this beautiful island is named after!
And so, we made our way to Grassdale in the Kelly Hill Conservation Park after a tryst with some pesky pelicans at the beautiful Stokes Bay. Once a farm run by Lucy Edwards, who sold it off when it got too much to manage on her own, Grassdale is now a place for rambunctious kangaroos with tiny little joeys in their pouches to frolic about in. Sipping freshly brewed tea and tucking into shortbread biscuits, we watched as the marsupials went about their business picking at tender shoots that were beginning to emerge from the red soil.
Leaving my nightmares where they belonged, at the bottom of Admirals Arch, something (or rather someone) more soothing and docile beckoned. One of the things on my ‘To Do’ list when I first decided to take a trip to the land down under was just about to be struck off – tea with kangaroos for whom this beautiful island is named after!
And so, we made our way to Grassdale in the Kelly Hill Conservation Park after a tryst with some pesky pelicans at the beautiful Stokes Bay. Once a farm run by Lucy Edwards, who sold it off when it got too much to manage on her own, Grassdale is now a place for rambunctious kangaroos with tiny little joeys in their pouches to frolic about in. Sipping freshly brewed tea and tucking into shortbread biscuits, we watched as the marsupials went about their business picking at tender shoots that were beginning to emerge from the red soil.
To
Bee or not to Bee!
Next day, up bright and early, we made our way to our first stop of the day—Clifford’s Honey Farm in the island’s MacGillivray neighbourhood. This family-run honey farm produces high quality honeys from various native plants—each with a distinctive flavour. I particularly enjoyed the cup gum variety.
The strain of the placid Ligurian bee, that was brought to Kangaroo Island from Italy, is disease free and high yielding, and in great demand worldwide. Clifford let us know that Kangaroo Island is the only place in the world with a wild population of the bees and has been designated as a bee sanctuary. The fine, pure honey produced by these bees is made into a variety of honey products at the farm, including honeycomb, honey ice-cream and even honey beer. The latter being a spur of the moment, unusual invention by Clifford’s son-in-law that works surprisingly well, I might add.
Next day, up bright and early, we made our way to our first stop of the day—Clifford’s Honey Farm in the island’s MacGillivray neighbourhood. This family-run honey farm produces high quality honeys from various native plants—each with a distinctive flavour. I particularly enjoyed the cup gum variety.
The strain of the placid Ligurian bee, that was brought to Kangaroo Island from Italy, is disease free and high yielding, and in great demand worldwide. Clifford let us know that Kangaroo Island is the only place in the world with a wild population of the bees and has been designated as a bee sanctuary. The fine, pure honey produced by these bees is made into a variety of honey products at the farm, including honeycomb, honey ice-cream and even honey beer. The latter being a spur of the moment, unusual invention by Clifford’s son-in-law that works surprisingly well, I might add.
Hic,
Hic Hurrah
And speaking of a drink, a tasting selection of gins including a yummy Thai-style chilli gin was what we tried next at the rustic chic-looking Kangaroo Island Spirits straight off the Playford Highway in Cygnet River. Located within a rather ramshackle exterior, the distillery is where liqueurs, gins and vodkas are all handmade in small batches using hand crafted copper pot stills. These high-quality spirits are additive and preservative free and where possible are made using native Australian botanicals and locally grown or sourced ingredients, including the Island favourite...you guessed it, Ligurian honey!
And speaking of a drink, a tasting selection of gins including a yummy Thai-style chilli gin was what we tried next at the rustic chic-looking Kangaroo Island Spirits straight off the Playford Highway in Cygnet River. Located within a rather ramshackle exterior, the distillery is where liqueurs, gins and vodkas are all handmade in small batches using hand crafted copper pot stills. These high-quality spirits are additive and preservative free and where possible are made using native Australian botanicals and locally grown or sourced ingredients, including the Island favourite...you guessed it, Ligurian honey!
Rock
and Roll
And buzzing we all were once again as the otherworldly Remarkable Rocks began to play a game of hide and go seek with our eyes, darting in and out of focus as we drove through a thicket of Tate’s grass tress towards the rock formation. A huge cluster of weather-beaten granite boulders perched on a large granite dome that drops 75 metres to the sea, these numinous icons of Kangaroo Island appear to be the creation of an extra territorial being… or perhaps it was just Mother Nature playing abstractionist sculptor for the day.
And buzzing we all were once again as the otherworldly Remarkable Rocks began to play a game of hide and go seek with our eyes, darting in and out of focus as we drove through a thicket of Tate’s grass tress towards the rock formation. A huge cluster of weather-beaten granite boulders perched on a large granite dome that drops 75 metres to the sea, these numinous icons of Kangaroo Island appear to be the creation of an extra territorial being… or perhaps it was just Mother Nature playing abstractionist sculptor for the day.
But then again, that’s just what Kangaroo Island does
to you. It makes you imagine things you’d never imagined before and see things
from a whole other perspective.
FACT
FILE
Getting
there
There is a daily 30-minute flight to Kingscote on Regional Express from Adelaide on the mainland of South Australia. For travelling within Kangaroo Island, it is advisable to either hire out the services of a tour company such as Kangaroo Island Odysseys (www.kiodysseys.com.au ) or perhaps self-drive a hired car, as there is virtually no public transport on the island.
Visas
There is a daily 30-minute flight to Kingscote on Regional Express from Adelaide on the mainland of South Australia. For travelling within Kangaroo Island, it is advisable to either hire out the services of a tour company such as Kangaroo Island Odysseys (www.kiodysseys.com.au ) or perhaps self-drive a hired car, as there is virtually no public transport on the island.
Visas
Indian passport holders need a visa to enter Australia, which is easy to
procure with the introduction of the very efficient e-visa facility.
When
to visit
With Kangaroo Island enjoying pleasant climate during the autumn and spring seasons, the best months to travel are from March to May and from September to early November. Summers from December to February can get a bit hot.
With Kangaroo Island enjoying pleasant climate during the autumn and spring seasons, the best months to travel are from March to May and from September to early November. Summers from December to February can get a bit hot.
Accommodation
Kangaroo Island has an excellent selection of hotels to choose from to suit all budgets and tastes. Some of the best options are:
* Aurora Ozone Hotel (www.ozonehotelki.com.au)
* Kangaroo Island Seafront (www.seafront.com.au)
* Mercure Kangaroo Island Lodge (www.www.kilodge.com.au)
Kangaroo Island has an excellent selection of hotels to choose from to suit all budgets and tastes. Some of the best options are:
* Aurora Ozone Hotel (www.ozonehotelki.com.au)
* Kangaroo Island Seafront (www.seafront.com.au)
* Mercure Kangaroo Island Lodge (www.www.kilodge.com.au)
(A differently edited version of this piece was first published in the October 2018 issue of The Week's Smart Life magazine)
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