Tuesday, February 4, 2020

Isles of Infinity…

An archipelago of a little over a thousand islands, The Maldives has something for every kind of traveller, from its stunning resorts and an interesting fusion-style cuisine, to its densely-packed capital of Malé that offers a unique glimpse into the local Maldivian life.   




By Raul Dias

There’s just something about that cluster of tiny islands nestled in the Indian Ocean called The Maldives that automatically attaches the “expensive” label to it. All this, thanks to those ultra-luxurious island resort havens with cerulean waters, coupled with those bragging rights one amasses after hobnobbing with the world’s jet-setters who seem to have taken a mighty shine to this ocean paradise. But as I recently learned, that needn’t be the case. Those azure waters and palm-fringed beaches are very much accessible to the common man!
Whenever it boils down to anything related to one of my life’s greatest passions, aka. travel, the frugal opportunist in me makes his presence felt. And so, in early December last year, I found myself flying towards The Maldives aboard GoAir’s recently launched direct Mumbai- Malé flight on the very affordable return fare of Rs 11,000. The quick and comfortable flight had me touch down on the airport island of Velana in Malé, the capital of the nation in exactly two-and-a-half hours time.
But my final destination, the beautiful Mövenpick Resort Kuredhivaru was still to be a 45-minute seaplane ride away. Located just behind the main airport terminal, the seaplane terminal is the place from where one can hop onto a tiny, 14-seater aircraft that links a huge number of islands with the bustling, non-touristy capital Malé. But more on Malé later.

Blissfull Beginnings
As part of the Noonu Atoll in the northern part of The Maldives, the resort remains one of the least developed area of the country, offering guests untouched natural beauty, abundant sea life and endless views across the Indian Ocean. The resort is designed in a contemporary style with emphasis on comfortable accommodation and a private, yet stimulating resort experience. And as I was soon to find out, every modern convenience is incorporated amidst desert-island luxury.
Each of the 72 Overwater Pool Villas, 30 Beach Pool Suites and three Beach Spa Pool Residences are private havens of comfort, comprising large living rooms that lead to wide bathrooms with stand-alone bathtubs and floor to ceiling windows from which to enjoy the shimmering tropical sunlight. Traditional Maldivian arched ceilings of each residence allow fresh air to circulate freely, cooling and adding a sense of abundant space within.
Soon it was time for me to unwind at the spa and rid myself of all that pent up city-induced stress. The signature spa is an oasis of calm, where trained therapists soothe mind and body with massages and individually prepared lotions. As replenishing oils restore the body, the serene unbroken ocean views from each secluded bay relax the mind, leaving me truly at ease.

Exotic Bites!
Ever the ‘epicurious’ traveller, I simply had to have a taste of the local Maldivian cuisine—something that I had been longing to try! The stunning ONU Marché restaurant named after “onu” which is what bamboo is called in the local Dhivehi language and “marché” for market in French is where the cuisine of The Maldives—one that combines local dishes with European and Asian elements enhanced by the liberal use of spices such as curry powder and the chilli in all its fiery avatars—was unveiled to me by the local chefs.
Expectedly, Maldivian cuisine strongly leans towards the use of fish, generally tuna that is eaten at almost every meal of the day; either boiled, fresh, smoked or sun-dried. Fish combined with onions, chillies, lemon juice, coconut and rice structures the essential diet. Almost all meals in The Maldives, even breakfast, are served with roshi which is a local bread made with flour, water, oil and salt, and cooked on a hot griddle.
And a tuna-stuffed masroshi was just what I started with as an appetiser that evening along with a main course that wowed me. A green tangy curry of tuna chunks with a mellifluous name of kandu kukulhu was introduced to me along with sides like a bowl of steamed white rice and a simple salad of tomatoes, onions and coriander. The curry was divine with each forkful bursting with a flavour that was neither Indian nor Sri Lankan, but rather like a Thai green curry to which a liberal splash of lime juice was added along with the fragrant lemon grass. Working perfectly with the rice, the kandu kukulhu was loaded with a ‘more-ish’ feeling that I had to resist in order to make space for the next course of the meal.
Now, totally opposite to the Indian style of dining, the Maldivians first eat rice with curry and then the plain roshi along with sambols, which form the ‘dry dish’ component of the meal. I was served two Maldivian sambols called mashuni and barabo mashuni, which were very different from their Sri Lankan counterparts in the spice (or should I say lack thereof) quotient. The basic mashuni is a wondrous concoction of flaked tuna that is combined with freshly grated coconut, onions, lime and green chilli. The barabo mashuni was equally scrumptious with the addition of boiled pumpkin bits that gave it a hint of sweetness and a creamier texture.
Thoroughly satiated with what I had just eaten, I literally waddled back to my ocean villa, ready for my next day’s adventure in Malé.

A Slice of Local Life
Perfect for a short day trip or even for an overnight stay, Malé offers the hard-core traveller a host of local experiences and sights that you may never have if you simply stay put at your luxurious island resort! With an area of less than six square kilometres and a population of about 150,000 people, Malé truly is one of the world’s smallest national capitals and one can be traversed in just a couple of hours.
My day trip to Malé had me first stop by the chaotic and colourful main market that was jam-packed with sellers vending everything from the local favourites like betel nut and large, freshly caught tuna fish to exotic fruit, vegetables and local sweets. Next it was a wander down the rather sandy Sultan Park in the center of the city and then for a glimpse of the president’s palace. Called Mulee Aage, the house is a neat and surprisingly un-fussy colonial-style bungalow situated midtown with bare minimal security details in sight. One can also visit the National Museum and the brand new golden-domed Grand Friday Mosque and also the historic, 17th century Hukuru Miskiiy also known as the Old Friday Mosque.
And it was here as I walked the narrow streets of Malé that I discovered a very important aspect of travel. I learned that sunny afternoon that there can be several versions of any country, just like I had seen in The Maldives. It all depends on how one looks at things. Do we view it from the often thickly veiled-gaze of a tourist or from the point of view of a true-blue traveller ready for all sorts of experiences? That’s a question worth asking ourselves.

All You Need is Love –Valentine’s Month Special
What could be more romantic than roses, bubbles and a stunning beachside romantic dinner under the stars? All this month of February, guests at the Mövenpick Resort Kuredhivaru can enjoy an exquisite dinner on the beach followed by romantic bed decoration and in-villa champagne breakfast the following day. The All You Need is Love package (USD 950++ per couple) also includes a private sunset cruise with champagne and canapés.


Fact File
Getting There 
The newly launched direct GoAir flights (www.goair.in) link New Delhi, Mumbai and Bengaluru with Malé’s Velana International Airport, all three in under three hours flying time. The visa to enter The Maldives is free and is given to everybody irrespective of nationality on arrival.

Stay
Mövenpick Resort Kuredhivaru Maldives, H. Agadhage 3rd floor Boduthakurefaanu Magu, Malé Maldives 20026.
Telephone: +960 6563000, E-mail: Resort.Kuredhivaru@movenpick.com
www. movenpick.com

(A differently edited version of this piece was first published in the February 2020 issue of The Week's Smart Life magazine)





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