There is much more to the idyllic Tehri Garhwal region of Uttarakhand
than just the tourist-saturated hill station of Mussoorie. “And what better way
to get a crash course in this unique culture than by immersing oneself in its
highly-nuanced cuisine?”, asks Raul Dias who recently discovered its magic on a
wonderfully curated culinary soujourn.
I’ve always been a firm believer that to truly ‘know’ or at the very
least attempt to know any culture, undertaking an immersive experience into its
nuances is imperative. And what better way to do that than by partaking in
something that’s so very basic and primal—eating! So, although I’d been privy
to the wonders of Uttarakhand
and more specifically, Mussoorie on several occasions in the past, its
indigenous cuisine had somehow always been sacrificed at the table of more
plebian continental and Mughlai fare I’d eaten at the hotels that I’d stayed
at. “But not this time” I told
myself as I set off on a wonderfully
curated culinary soujourn into the
alluring world of Garhwali cuisine at the JW Marriott Mussoorie Walnut Grove Resort
& Spa.
Grass Roots—Literally!
This 115-room resort overlooking the scenic Northern Garhwal range of the mighty Himalayas itself might be a far cry from anything traditionally Garhwali, in terms of its rather minimalist, almost Nordic, linear architecture. But over the course of my two days stay, it revealed several delicious (pun intended!) facets that showed me its refreshingly rustic core.
Take for instance the quaint afternoon tea drinking custom of kachdi that it hosts every afternoon from 4-6pm on its lawns for all guests free of charge. After a quick check in and change of clothes, off I was to enjoy this pahadi tradition of getting together over warming cups of masala chai, chaat and spicy corn-on-the-cob—all served from push carts. It was here that I was told by general manager Ramandeep Marwah about the resort’s many initiatives to promote and thus sustain the traditional Garhwali food and culture.
Not only do they have their own self-sustaining organic farm and greenhouse on the property helmed by locals from the village, but they also work with local cooks, farmers and food producers to showcase the food of the region. But what excited me the most was the resort’s outreach program whereby guests like myself are taken on immersive local village sojourns to get a bite of the indigenous life.
This 115-room resort overlooking the scenic Northern Garhwal range of the mighty Himalayas itself might be a far cry from anything traditionally Garhwali, in terms of its rather minimalist, almost Nordic, linear architecture. But over the course of my two days stay, it revealed several delicious (pun intended!) facets that showed me its refreshingly rustic core.
Take for instance the quaint afternoon tea drinking custom of kachdi that it hosts every afternoon from 4-6pm on its lawns for all guests free of charge. After a quick check in and change of clothes, off I was to enjoy this pahadi tradition of getting together over warming cups of masala chai, chaat and spicy corn-on-the-cob—all served from push carts. It was here that I was told by general manager Ramandeep Marwah about the resort’s many initiatives to promote and thus sustain the traditional Garhwali food and culture.
Not only do they have their own self-sustaining organic farm and greenhouse on the property helmed by locals from the village, but they also work with local cooks, farmers and food producers to showcase the food of the region. But what excited me the most was the resort’s outreach program whereby guests like myself are taken on immersive local village sojourns to get a bite of the indigenous life.
Of Shivlings
and Swalas
Up early the next morning and guided by the resort’s director of food and beverage, Sunil Kumar, a trained chef and local Garhwali himself, we were taken on a long almost four-hour drive to the village of Lakhamandal for a breakfast with a big difference! An ancient Hindu temple complex, situated in the Jaunsar-Bawar region of Uttarakhand, the Lakhamandal temple is dedicated to lord Shiva. The unique aspect of Lakhamandal—that is also the progenitor of its name—are the many (lakh) shivlings (or mandals as they are called) that can be found here. Many of which are still being discovered by the village’s inhabitants on an almost daily basis.
And speaking of the locals, we were invited into an almost-200year old traditional Garhwali home, made of deodhar (cedar) wood for a hearty breakfast that has now set the benchmark for all my future breakfasts.
Sitting cross-legged on the worn out wooden floor facing the stunning Himalayas, our brass thalis were laden with calorific treats like the hearty white butter-anointed mandua (finger millet) roti, the potato-stuffed swala roti, gath (horse gram) ka paratha with thick homemade curds, til (sesame) chutney sweet apricot chutney and as condiments. Also showing us the adaptive nature of Garhwali cuisine, we were served a sweet, steamed rice cake that was stuffed with dried coconut and jaggery.
It was here that Chef Sunil told us a bit about the non-vegetarian aspect of Garhwali cuisine wherein although the repertoire of specific recipes are limited, meat does play an important role in the diet. So, while river fish are generally either crumb fried or cooked into a jhol (curry), one of the most interesting ways of cooking fish is by wrapping it in malle ka patta a local leaf and then steaming it. As for mutton, the most notable of the traditional Garhwali recipes is kachmauli wherein the goat meat is first smoked over a fire fueled by local herbs. When still slightly underdone, the meat is deboned and tossed in raw mustard oil, salt, chillies and turmeric and then served as a dry appetizer.
Up early the next morning and guided by the resort’s director of food and beverage, Sunil Kumar, a trained chef and local Garhwali himself, we were taken on a long almost four-hour drive to the village of Lakhamandal for a breakfast with a big difference! An ancient Hindu temple complex, situated in the Jaunsar-Bawar region of Uttarakhand, the Lakhamandal temple is dedicated to lord Shiva. The unique aspect of Lakhamandal—that is also the progenitor of its name—are the many (lakh) shivlings (or mandals as they are called) that can be found here. Many of which are still being discovered by the village’s inhabitants on an almost daily basis.
And speaking of the locals, we were invited into an almost-200year old traditional Garhwali home, made of deodhar (cedar) wood for a hearty breakfast that has now set the benchmark for all my future breakfasts.
Sitting cross-legged on the worn out wooden floor facing the stunning Himalayas, our brass thalis were laden with calorific treats like the hearty white butter-anointed mandua (finger millet) roti, the potato-stuffed swala roti, gath (horse gram) ka paratha with thick homemade curds, til (sesame) chutney sweet apricot chutney and as condiments. Also showing us the adaptive nature of Garhwali cuisine, we were served a sweet, steamed rice cake that was stuffed with dried coconut and jaggery.
It was here that Chef Sunil told us a bit about the non-vegetarian aspect of Garhwali cuisine wherein although the repertoire of specific recipes are limited, meat does play an important role in the diet. So, while river fish are generally either crumb fried or cooked into a jhol (curry), one of the most interesting ways of cooking fish is by wrapping it in malle ka patta a local leaf and then steaming it. As for mutton, the most notable of the traditional Garhwali recipes is kachmauli wherein the goat meat is first smoked over a fire fueled by local herbs. When still slightly underdone, the meat is deboned and tossed in raw mustard oil, salt, chillies and turmeric and then served as a dry appetizer.
Lunching with Locals
Barely had we digested the diet-busting brekkie, when a short hour’s drive from Lakhamandal had us deposited at the hilly village of Pantwadi for lunch, again had in the delightful company of the rosy-cheeked locals. Greeted with a folk dance performed to the rhythmic beats of the dhols and trumpets, we were taken into the headman’s home for our treat.
Another mighty deodhar home, this one came replete with legends of its own. Sensing our dismay at the painfully tiny doors that required even the shortest among us to stoop in order to get in, the head man had us know that these were purpose built so that when attacked by the enemy, the enemy’s head could be chopped off as he bent his way through.
But casting all morbidity aside, we sat down to a simple, yet flavourful meal of ghee-drenched makke (corn meal) rotis, rajma curry, sabut masoor dal, peppery pahadi palak (local spinach), red rice and an unusual condiment in the form of the lehsun ka namak (garlic salt). A drinkable almost chaas-like raita was poured into a brass tumbler to aid in digestion and all we could do after that was to lie down on the wooden floor and marvel at the satiating powers of the simple, yet supremely delicious local fare all made with an important ingredient called love!
Barely had we digested the diet-busting brekkie, when a short hour’s drive from Lakhamandal had us deposited at the hilly village of Pantwadi for lunch, again had in the delightful company of the rosy-cheeked locals. Greeted with a folk dance performed to the rhythmic beats of the dhols and trumpets, we were taken into the headman’s home for our treat.
Another mighty deodhar home, this one came replete with legends of its own. Sensing our dismay at the painfully tiny doors that required even the shortest among us to stoop in order to get in, the head man had us know that these were purpose built so that when attacked by the enemy, the enemy’s head could be chopped off as he bent his way through.
But casting all morbidity aside, we sat down to a simple, yet flavourful meal of ghee-drenched makke (corn meal) rotis, rajma curry, sabut masoor dal, peppery pahadi palak (local spinach), red rice and an unusual condiment in the form of the lehsun ka namak (garlic salt). A drinkable almost chaas-like raita was poured into a brass tumbler to aid in digestion and all we could do after that was to lie down on the wooden floor and marvel at the satiating powers of the simple, yet supremely delicious local fare all made with an important ingredient called love!
Pics courtesy: JW Marriott Mussoorie Walnut Grove Resort & Spa
FACT
FILE
Getting
There
The mist-shrouded hill station of Mussoorie—that is the nerve center of the Tehri Garhwal region of Uttarakhand—is a scenic three hours’ drive from Dehradun, the state’s capital. There is now a daily direct flight from Mumbai to Dehradun’s Jolly Grant Airport on Jet Airways. Alternately, Mussoorie is just 290 kms from Delhi-NCR by road, but there also are several daily direct flights linking Delhi with Dehradun.
The mist-shrouded hill station of Mussoorie—that is the nerve center of the Tehri Garhwal region of Uttarakhand—is a scenic three hours’ drive from Dehradun, the state’s capital. There is now a daily direct flight from Mumbai to Dehradun’s Jolly Grant Airport on Jet Airways. Alternately, Mussoorie is just 290 kms from Delhi-NCR by road, but there also are several daily direct flights linking Delhi with Dehradun.
For
More Information Contact
JW Marriott Mussoorie Walnut Grove Resort & Spa
Village - Siya, Kempty Fall Road, Tehri Garhwal, Uttrakhand
Tel: +91 124 4956900, 18001025000
Email: india.reservations@marriott.com
www.jwmarriottmussoorie.com
JW Marriott Mussoorie Walnut Grove Resort & Spa
Village - Siya, Kempty Fall Road, Tehri Garhwal, Uttrakhand
Tel: +91 124 4956900, 18001025000
Email: india.reservations@marriott.com
www.jwmarriottmussoorie.com
(A shorter, edited version of this article appeared in the 8th July 2017 issue of the Afternoon Despatch & Courier newspaper, India http://www.afternoondc.in/mumbai-mix/heaven-on-a-plate/article_199125)
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