Saturday, July 8, 2017

Latino Flavours

Right from the wonders of Mexican moles to Peruvian ceviches and the Brazilian churrascaria, a whole smorgasbord of new restaurants around India are referencing Latin American cuisine like never before, making ‘tis the season for a bit of Latino exotica on our plates! 



By Raul Dias

BOTECO
Introducing tongue twisters of dishes like pão de queijo (cheese fritters), escondidinho (steak topped with mascarpone cheese) and rocambole de espinafare (veggie-filled spinach rolls) to the Indian diner’s culinary lexicon is this restaurant—with two branches in Pune and a brand new three-weeks-old one in Mumbai—that claims to be the country’s first all-Brazilian eatery. And yes, they do a mean version of Brazil’s national drink, the caipirinha which is the refreshing sum of its cachaça, sugar and lime parts.
Exotic appeal: With its selection of charcoal grilled pork, lamb, steak, chicken and chouriço sausage, the churrascaria (Rs 690) is an ode to the meaty excesses Brazil is notorious for!

LUCA
Bringing to Mumbai a range of exotic Pan-Hispanic flavours, Luca charts its food expedition from the mercados of Mexico with a chocolate-laden chicken mole to the balmy islands of the Caribbean (callaloo with okra) to finally, the sunny beaches of Coastal South America with their riff on the Puerto Rican plantain classic tostones. Hints of colonial influences show up in dishes like a ‘Latinised’ Spanish paella and a Portuguese feijoada.
Exotic appeal: Grilled octopus pulpazo (Rs 650) served with chouriço and butter beans, all anointed with an Argentinian coriander chimichurri.

CHURRASCARIA BRAZIL
It may have opened a mere 10 months ago, but this Bengaluru churrascaria-style Brazilian restaurant is garnering serious street cred. And this is mainly due to the fact that Brazilian expat couple Bruno and Cherlene Camera, and the brains behind this buffet-style eatery, prefer a hands-on approach. Their eat-till-you-burst procession of grilled meats is highlighted by juicy steaks, pork chops and unlimited links of sausage served with sides like fried plantains and rice with beans. 
Exotic appeal: The barbecued pineapple that’s a part of the mains section is a charred to perfection, caramalised treat.

WILDFIRE
Nestled in the heart of Gurugram’s Crowne Plaza hotel, is this Brazilian all-grills restaurant that takes a pescatarian detour from the usually meat-saturated churrascaria theme with its seafood dishes like the pan fried red snapper pan fritto dentice and brodo di pesce zuppa di saffron-redolent fish soup. But that’s not to say that the meat lovers are ignored. Take your pick from the linguisa pork sausage, the tenderloin fraldinha or perhaps, the minty lamb paleta de cordeiro.
Exotic appeal: The game-y peito de pato (Rs 1,800) which is a whole roast duck sprinkled with oregano and rock salt.


LIMA
Helping India discover that there is a whole other raw fish world out there as opposed to just sushi, Lima in Mumbai proudly shows off its Peruvian underpinnings. Offering a range of ceviche—from a traditional yellowfin tuna tiradito one to a veggie-friendly enoki mushroom iteration. All this, as you nurse a few of Lima’s signature cocktails like the pisco-saturated Lima sour, served with a frothy cloud of meringue.
Exotic appeal: Smoked grilled yucca or cassava (Rs 350) paired with a salsa criola and milk-infused corn-on-the-cob.

A shorter, differently edited version of this piece was first published in the 17th July, 2017 issue of India Today magazine)


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