With its ancient Aztec underpinnings firmly in place—while
still proud of its Hispanic heritage—Mexico City is a curious blend of several
cultures and artforms that add myriad facets to its multi-layered countenance.
Thus, making the bustling Central American megapolis, one the world’s most
fascinating cities to visit!
By Raul Dias
It wouldn’t be an overstatement to say that probably not many of us are aware that Mexico City is home to most number of museums in the world at over 160. Or that city also has over 100 art galleries, and 30 concert halls. Or that it is home to the oldest university in the Americas; the National Autonomous University of Mexico (UNAM), also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
And it is these very impressive statistics and kudos-worthy achievements that are glossed over, as the city is often, rather unfairly vilified for having the exact same problems most cities its size are prone to, such as pollution, overpopulation and alarming traffic snarls.
But overlook its scars, tune out its din and ignore the incessant blaring of horns, and you will find yourself enjoying a city that truly was made to be appreciated and savoured. From the artistic oeuvres of the world of Frida Kahlo to the national pride-saturated National Palace and the Zócalo square at its heart, Mexico City is also the place where the wonders of an ancient civilization are very much alive and kicking to this day.
It is this same multi-layered countenance that makes it one of the world’s greatest cities to not just visit, but be a part of.
Ancient
Ground Zero
As the single most definitive place to get a feel of Mexico city’s ancient Aztec pulse, the Zócalo is ironically at the very heart of the city—both geographically and metaphorically. This gargantuan square, with the enormous Mexican national flag bearing pole at its center, is believed to be the place from which the city sprung up after an eagle was spotted perched on a nopal (cactus) plant with a snake in its beak. This very same eagle-with-snake motif is the national emblem of Mexico today. Over the years, the Zócalo then became a gathering place for the local Aztec people, the site of Mexican ceremonies, the swearing in of viceroys and royal proclamations when it was the ‘Ground Zero’ of the Aztec capital Tenochtitlan.
Now days, known by its more formal name, Plaza de la Constitución, it plays host to military parades, modern religious events such as the festivals of Holy Week and Corpus Christi and most importantly, the grand Independence Day ceremony of 16th September which sees the entire city erupt in national fervour and pride every year.
As the single most definitive place to get a feel of Mexico city’s ancient Aztec pulse, the Zócalo is ironically at the very heart of the city—both geographically and metaphorically. This gargantuan square, with the enormous Mexican national flag bearing pole at its center, is believed to be the place from which the city sprung up after an eagle was spotted perched on a nopal (cactus) plant with a snake in its beak. This very same eagle-with-snake motif is the national emblem of Mexico today. Over the years, the Zócalo then became a gathering place for the local Aztec people, the site of Mexican ceremonies, the swearing in of viceroys and royal proclamations when it was the ‘Ground Zero’ of the Aztec capital Tenochtitlan.
Now days, known by its more formal name, Plaza de la Constitución, it plays host to military parades, modern religious events such as the festivals of Holy Week and Corpus Christi and most importantly, the grand Independence Day ceremony of 16th September which sees the entire city erupt in national fervour and pride every year.
Culture
Confluence!
The Zócalo is also flanked by some of the most important buildings in Mexico City making it a great confluence of cultures. The most venerable of all its edifices is the Metropolitan Cathedral—the largest cathedral in the Americas, and seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Mexico. Built in sections from 1573 to 1813 around the original church that was constructed soon after the Spanish conquest of Tenochtitlan, the cathedral that stands today is an imposing structure with four façades that contain portals flanked with columns and statues. The two bell towers on either side towers contain a total of 25 bells, each ringing in the hours of the day.
Adjacent to the cathedral is the Templo Mayor which was one of the main temples of the ancient Aztec capital. Today a museum, the Templo Mayor is also known as Huei Teocalli in the Nahuatl language and dedicated simultaneously to two Gods, Huitzilopochtli, the God of war, and Tlaloc, the God of rain and agriculture, each of which had a shrine at the top of the pyramid with separate staircases. Interestingly, far from being a dead language, Nahuatl is still widely spoken by the modern-day descendants of the Aztecs who can be seen putting up skits and dance performances just outside the museum every day of the year.
The Zócalo is also flanked by some of the most important buildings in Mexico City making it a great confluence of cultures. The most venerable of all its edifices is the Metropolitan Cathedral—the largest cathedral in the Americas, and seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Mexico. Built in sections from 1573 to 1813 around the original church that was constructed soon after the Spanish conquest of Tenochtitlan, the cathedral that stands today is an imposing structure with four façades that contain portals flanked with columns and statues. The two bell towers on either side towers contain a total of 25 bells, each ringing in the hours of the day.
Adjacent to the cathedral is the Templo Mayor which was one of the main temples of the ancient Aztec capital. Today a museum, the Templo Mayor is also known as Huei Teocalli in the Nahuatl language and dedicated simultaneously to two Gods, Huitzilopochtli, the God of war, and Tlaloc, the God of rain and agriculture, each of which had a shrine at the top of the pyramid with separate staircases. Interestingly, far from being a dead language, Nahuatl is still widely spoken by the modern-day descendants of the Aztecs who can be seen putting up skits and dance performances just outside the museum every day of the year.
National
Pride
Opposite the Templo Mayor, the National Palace is sure to take your breath away with its sheer scale and grandeur, both from outside with its red tezontle façade and from within. Today, home to some of the offices of both the Federal Treasury and the National Archives, the over 200 meters long building is bordered on the north and south by two towers and includes three main doorways.
‘Surrender’ your passport to the east gate guard in exchange for a free entry pass, and you can wander through the pristine central courtyard with its famed octagonal water fountain at its core. The colourful mural by Diego Rivera along the wall of the grand stairwell depicting both ancient Aztec life and the Hispanic rule is a living tribute to the artist, who, along with his wife, the legendary self-portrait painter Frida Kahlo are revered as Mexican treasures. But more on Frida and Diego later.
On the first floor of the palace is the wonderfully curated Juárez Museum dedicated to another Mexican hero—former president Benito Juárez who lived here during the end of his term and where he died on July 18, 1872. The relics of Juárez and his wife Margarita Maza, including their bedroom, living room and study have been preserved, complete with a number of objects belonging to the couple.
Opposite the Templo Mayor, the National Palace is sure to take your breath away with its sheer scale and grandeur, both from outside with its red tezontle façade and from within. Today, home to some of the offices of both the Federal Treasury and the National Archives, the over 200 meters long building is bordered on the north and south by two towers and includes three main doorways.
‘Surrender’ your passport to the east gate guard in exchange for a free entry pass, and you can wander through the pristine central courtyard with its famed octagonal water fountain at its core. The colourful mural by Diego Rivera along the wall of the grand stairwell depicting both ancient Aztec life and the Hispanic rule is a living tribute to the artist, who, along with his wife, the legendary self-portrait painter Frida Kahlo are revered as Mexican treasures. But more on Frida and Diego later.
On the first floor of the palace is the wonderfully curated Juárez Museum dedicated to another Mexican hero—former president Benito Juárez who lived here during the end of his term and where he died on July 18, 1872. The relics of Juárez and his wife Margarita Maza, including their bedroom, living room and study have been preserved, complete with a number of objects belonging to the couple.
Art
Attack
To discount Mexico City’s indelible mark left on the world of art would be doing a grave injustice to this highly culturally nuanced city. And we’re not just speaking of paintings and sculptures, however breathtaking they may be! It is the performing arts that will leave you equally spell-bound.
One of the most cost effective…nay, free ways to immerse yourself is by turning up at the Plaza Garibaldi in the Centro neighbourhood of the city in the evenings. Here, once the sun goes down, bands of frilly shirted and wide brimmed hatted Mariachis begin to toot their trumpets and strum their guitars, as light-footed locals dance the night away. And speaking of dance, why not get a hands-on, err, we mean ‘feet-on’ experience? Just join the free Tango classes held every Sunday at 5pm in Parque Mexico and let the Latin vibe reverberate through your body.
But no trip to Mexico City can ever be complete without paying obeisance at the altar of its most beloved artist and daughter. Yes, Frida Kahlo in all her colourful, almost kitschy brilliance is best referenced at the Museo Frida Kahlo located in the Colonia del Carmen neighborhood of Coyoacán.
La Casa Azul or the blue house as it is known locally is where the unibrowed icon was born, grew up and eventually died in 1954 at 47 years-of-age. Today, it houses not only her rather evocative works, like one of her last pieces called El marxismo dará salud—that depicts her throwing away her crutches after recovering from her infamous 1925 bus accident—but also works of other artists like José María Velasco, Paul Klee and her beloved Diego Rivera.
To discount Mexico City’s indelible mark left on the world of art would be doing a grave injustice to this highly culturally nuanced city. And we’re not just speaking of paintings and sculptures, however breathtaking they may be! It is the performing arts that will leave you equally spell-bound.
One of the most cost effective…nay, free ways to immerse yourself is by turning up at the Plaza Garibaldi in the Centro neighbourhood of the city in the evenings. Here, once the sun goes down, bands of frilly shirted and wide brimmed hatted Mariachis begin to toot their trumpets and strum their guitars, as light-footed locals dance the night away. And speaking of dance, why not get a hands-on, err, we mean ‘feet-on’ experience? Just join the free Tango classes held every Sunday at 5pm in Parque Mexico and let the Latin vibe reverberate through your body.
But no trip to Mexico City can ever be complete without paying obeisance at the altar of its most beloved artist and daughter. Yes, Frida Kahlo in all her colourful, almost kitschy brilliance is best referenced at the Museo Frida Kahlo located in the Colonia del Carmen neighborhood of Coyoacán.
La Casa Azul or the blue house as it is known locally is where the unibrowed icon was born, grew up and eventually died in 1954 at 47 years-of-age. Today, it houses not only her rather evocative works, like one of her last pieces called El marxismo dará salud—that depicts her throwing away her crutches after recovering from her infamous 1925 bus accident—but also works of other artists like José María Velasco, Paul Klee and her beloved Diego Rivera.
And just like that; with its ancient Aztec heartbeat, with
the pulsating rhythms of the Tango and the Mariachi. And with those bold,
bohemian strokes in Frida’s paintings, the multiplicity that is Mexico City
seeps into your very being, leaving you breathless, yet supremely enchanted and
in desperate want for more...
Weird-n-Wacky
Mexico City!
·
La Isla de la Muñecas or the ‘Island of
the Dolls’ on Teshuilo Lake in the Xochimilco canals in the city’s suburbs is
where Don Julian Santana, has, for the last 50 years, been collecting lost
dolls from the canals and the trash near his island home and stinging them up
on the trees, making for a truly eerie sight.
·
The Sonora Market is probably
the world’s largest market dedicated solely to Voodoo and witchcraft, with
stalls selling everything from hexes to love potions and virility-enhancing unguents.
·
The Santa Muerte or ‘Saint Death’ shrine
in the heart of the city is in honour of the rather macabre angel of death
which is a local Mexico City Catholic deity depicted by a skeleton statue.
·
El Museo de El Carmen is where you will come
face to face with over a dozen mummified corpses, believed to be 17th-century
friars of the Carmelite order.
(An edited version of this article first appeared in the August 2017 issue of Jetwings Domestic in-flight magazine of Jet Airwayshttp://www.jetairways.com/EN/IN/jetexperience/magazines.aspx)
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