Friday, December 22, 2017

Mills and Bloom!

This stylish new Lower Parel restaurant takes a detour from the restaurant saturated Kamala Mills and sets up shop at the more laid back Raghuvanshi Mills





By Raul Dias

In a rather refreshing departure from the gazillion new restaurants and bars opening up at the almost de rigueur environs of Lower Parel’s Kamala Mills, Carouse​ finds itself a comfortable roost a little further down the main Tulsi Pipe road at Raghuvanshi Mills. Accessible by a super cool, topless hydraulic elevator, this 9,000 sq.ft. area, first floor restaurant is neatly divided up into two distinct zones.
While the main dining area is a tribute to all things techno-glam with its moody strobe lights projecting onto all-black walls, tufted velvet couches and a blood red DJ booth, the al fresco zone is a whole other story. Here, the wispy smoke of flavoured sheesha along with low slung settees and comfortable bar stools, conjure up a relaxed, laid back atmosphere, all fenced in by latticed woodwork that keeps the outside din…well, outside!
We choose the latter space to make the most of the city’s uncharacteristically chilly spell, as we sip a well-made spicy thoughts (Rs 250). The mocktail, with distinct oriental underpinnings, is a refreshing blend of five spice, ginger and orange, with a hint of mint. Disappointed that our first choice of chicken liver paté with an apple and fennel compote (Rs 499) isn’t available, we settle for the roasted wild mushroom soup (Rs 350). Served up in an almost pool-sized bowl with an accompanying bread basket and two herbed butters, the soup is an ingenious preparation that sees the rather unusual pairing of coconut milk and lemongrass with roasted mushroom, while the Thai chilli oil ‘thais’ things up perfectly.
Masquerading as steamed chicken baos (Rs 400) are three soft (and yes, baked!) pita wedges filled inadequately with shredded chicken and iceberg lettuce with an ineffectual drizzle of overly sweet BBQ sauce. Though perfectly edible, we feel a wee short-changed, especially after our server’s passionate hard sell of it. Our main of fettuccine with pan seared duck leg confit (Rs 625) more than makes up for the earlier aberration. It is a symphony of perfectly al dente pasta and fall-of-the-bone, umami-redolent duck meat, with the accompanying cranberry compote giving it a nifty little festive Christmas flavour.
Feeling a little indulgent for dessert time, we call for the peanut butter pie (Rs 400) and are at once rewarded with one of the best renditions of the all-American classic we’ve ever had, with our very first bite. Sitting on a crumbled oats cookie base is a not-too-sweet peanut butter ganache, topped with a lightly hazelnut flavoured mousse and fresh strawberries, with a luscious maraschino cherry topping it all off. The perfect end, if there ever was one!
Far from being “just another Lower Parel restaurant”, Carouse packs a mighty punch that expertly matches ‘bang’ for ‘buck’ in every which way.  


TIME: 4pm to 1.30am
AT: 1st floor, P2 building, Raghuvanshi Mills compound, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel West.
CALL: 33126701/24978080 

(An edited version of this review appeared in the 22nd December 2017 issue of the Mid-Day newspaper, India https://m.mid-day.com/articles/this-stylish-restaurant-chose-to-set-up-at-raghuvanshi-mills-instead-of-kamla-mills/18845177)

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