Midsummer Day’s Dream

( Pic courtesy: Satyabrata Tripathy / HT Photo )

By Raul Dias

Ignoring the putrid stench of dried fish that fogged us up with every passing sea breeze, we quickly stepped into The Looney, The Lover & The Poet for lunch on a torrid summer’s day. This rather whimsical restaurant occupies the same Khar Danda location where the short-lived Mumbai outpost of Thalassa had set up shop.
In fact, we caught glimpses of quite a few residual décor elements from its predecessor. Cases in point: the Portuguese Azulejo tiled bar counter and straight back wooden chairs that find new purpose here. But then, there are new trimmings too.
These take the form of the colourful fabric pinwheels that are attached onto the ceiling inside and the multitude of swaying dreamcatchers and fairy lights festooned from trees in the al fresco area. Intent on paying homage to a Midsummer Night’s Dream, this place clearly borrows more than just its name from a part of the Shakespearean comedy!
The menu here is quite literally all over the place with elements from cuisines as disparate as Georgian and Japanese. Twinnings that you’d never imagine working so well. But here, they do. A perfect example is our quartet of Italy-meets-Thailand savoury cannolis generously stuffed with kafir lime-laced crab meat and limoncello salt. We only wish they’d used less of the processed crab stick and more of the real crustacean.
Plump and succulent with a ricotta cheese and scallion core, slathered in an umami-rich lamb sauce, the Afghani ashak dumplings were as exotic as they were tasty. Bursting with its kale, green apple and cucumber flavours, the gin-based almost a detox held great promise of a healthy cocktail…if there ever is such a thing. Caprice, our non-alcoholic strawberry, pineapple and goji berry drink was refreshing, if a tad diluted with all the ice.
Introducing us to the wonderful, boat-shaped flat bread from Georgia—the khachapuri, the all vegetarian version served here was sublime. Perfectly marinated artichokes, sundried tomatoes and mushrooms sat atop a soft pizza-like base, with toasted pine nuts providing texture. Though missing the authenticity mark by a mile, and more on the lines of a Goan curry than a typically Japanese karē, the Hokkaido chicken curry, served with fluffy jasmine rice was both comforting and flavoursome.
With a limited dessert selection to pick from, we called for all the honey in the world. And that’s just what we got. Honey drizzled homemade chamomile ice cream cushioned by a moist, fragrant pistachio cake, dusted with the very au courant bee pollen made this one a winner.
“What’s in a name?” One might ask. The Looney, The Lover & The Poet has the answer. 
     

WHAT: The Looney, The Lover & The Poet
RATING: (3.5 out of 5)
WHERE: 216, Khar-Danda Road, Sai Baba Nagar, Koliwada, Khar Danda.
WHEN: 12 pm to 1.30 am
COST: Around Rs 3,500 for two, with one cocktail each
CALL: 9820029933

(An edited version of this review appeared on 12th May 2018 in the Hindustan Times newspaper, India https://www.hindustantimes.com/mumbai-news/a-slightly-messy-tribute-raul-dias-reviews-the-looney-the-lover-the-poet/story-5oqAfkwRNvk28w6Zx4TD8I.html)