A-N-A-T-O-M-I-Z-E: Thai Yantra Tattoo

Yantra tattoo master Arjan Sompong working on a tattoo (coursesy Airbnb Experiences)

By Raul Dias

At first glance, there is nothing remotely ‘sacred’ about sleepy little Samnak, a small village about a 30 minutes-drive outside the city of Chiang Mai. Often regarded as Thailand’s cultural and spiritual bastion, this cool and easy-going city—nestled in the lush hills of Northern Thailand—is where travellers descend upon for a bit of respite after braving the urban chaos of Bangkok. But the last few years have seen tattoo enthusiasts flock to Samnak en masse to get inked with what is regarded as the most coveted tattoo one can get—a traditional Thai Yantra Tattoo.
Ever-curious and utterly fascinated by the world of tattoos, I signed up for an afternoon submerged in all things Yantra Tattoo on a recent trip to northern Thailand. Conducted by the recently launched Airbnb Experiences in Chiang Mai, that connects travellers like myself directly with artists and practitioners for immersive interactions, my host Nikom, a former monk led me into the ‘sanctum santorum’ of another monk-turned-tattoo master Arjan Sompong. Sitting like a resident deity himself on an altar-like stage, surrounded by idols and other religious ceremonial artifacts, the beatifically smiling master got down to explaining to me what exactly a Yantra Tattoo signifies.
While there are different types and patterns of traditional Thai Yantra Tattoos—with each one having a different meaning and purpose—they all feature ancient geometric symbols, animals or deity designs. These motifs are believed to offer protection to the wearer against bad luck and bestow upon them good fortune. But all this comes at a price. For the tattoo to truly work its magic, the recipient cannot drink alcohol on the day—both, before and after getting the tattoo. They are also expected to incorporate several lifestyle restrictions and changes post-tattooing for the rest of their life. Specifically, those pertaining to limiting alcohol consumption and calming down of the temperament.
And this is why it is only Sompong who decides which Yantra Tattoo suits you the most (from a narrowed down list, of course) according to your aura. All this, before he injects a mixture of indigenous Thai herbs and minerals along with commercial tattoo ink into the dermis with the help of a hand tapped foot-long steel tattoo needle. Yes, no commercial tattoo machines used here! And at the end of the session, the master recites a blessing mantra to seal in the tattoo’s efficacy.
A very important aspect that is to be stressed when speaking of a Yantra Tattoo, is the fact that it is as far removed for a decorative tattoo as possible. In fact, a certain type of Yantra Tattoo can only be done in its invisible form, where a mixture of black sesame seed oil and invisible tattoo ink is injected into the recipient’s dermis layer. The mantras imbued into the person are meant to protect them from all harm, without the tattoo being traceable at all.
Interestingly, as he was a monk in the past, Sompong still follows one of the most cardinal tenets of monkhood. And that is, no physical contact with the opposite sex. So, this means that according to his vows he cannot do a Yantra Tattoo for female guests.

(An edited version of this column first appeared in the 8th July 2018 issue of The Hindu newspaper's Sunday Magazine section on page 8 https://www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/tp-features/tp-sundaymagazine/thai-yantra-tattoo/article24363222.ece?utm_source=tp-sundaymagazine&utm_medium=sticky_footer)